Outdoor Rock Climbing : How to Belay Yourself While Rock Climbing

[Sockheadableful]

this is...

[timthetortoise]

The climber looks pretty nervous, and for good reason.

[squirmychipmunk9]

There is nothing wrong with this technique, I don't know what you guys are all whining about. This is standard belaying technique.

[squirmychipmunk9]

Why is this titled How to belay YOURSELF? This is clearly how to belay SOMEONE ELSE.

[NEGuiding]

This is definitely one of the worst "How to Belay" videos I've seen on youtube. Besides the fact that neither one of you are wearing a helmet, this technique is BEYOND outdated! Brush up on your skills, get some formal training. If not...then stop making videos that will put new climbers in danger after watching this garbage.

[bowshott007]

well you people arent really climbers. i have been ckimbing for 20 years and just use an ATC. never needed an expensive piece of gear ever

[ryanmay80]

Horrible belaying technique. What happens when he falls while your sliding your right hand down the extra rope while above the ATC...your hand will be inside the ATC before you could react, making it a bad day for both.

[101deepak101]

that is terrible, unsafe belaying technique

[norrbysa]

What!!!? That is not the way to secure a climber. What do you think will happen when he falls and your rope is in an U shape? :-(

[altfelll]

Brown pants day for Dave :D

[seneca175]

@wxpm With a GriGri.

[wxpm]

@seneca175 You need a Belayer with a Gri Gri to belay the climber , a climber can`t belay himself

[isanification]

Try to do falling when your thump is holding the 2 rope, make it a little hither, oops.

[snocket]

this dude is a paid actor who knows nothing about real belaying techniques. This method leaves the ATC unlocked for too long and puts your climber at a great risk of falling farther than necessarily should they fall when you have both hands by your face.

Also, if he falls then, you grab the rope and jam your hand into the device(potentially loosing your grip on the rope and letting your partner down, literally). This method is extremely dangerous.

[420bailey]

God I hate to jump into this, but what the hell, old school belay with the ATC but ive seen worse, I would not put a noob on a gri-Gri cause he damned thing will lock up when youth is trying to throw you a mile of slack for a desperate. I do like the Gri-Gri for top ropeing, because when your mate is oggling the neighbors rack and you pop off the Gri-Gri will save-yo-bacon. and a suggestion, if you plan to top rope, set up with a static rope, no lead falls pls, no 7 foot drop from stretch.

[gryphontaboo]

Please remove this video!

[xchvcwryb]

Gosh, I saw a youtube video. Now I'm an expert on belaying an go climbing anywhere I like.

Or shall I take a real couse whith an instructor wo can correct me if I forget something and make a silly mistake?

[isanification]

freaks, slap and hold his mate with da thump. this video show how not! to belay. thx for expert village. prety sure he got pay ( by expert house)200 bugs for 2 mins vedio.

[bigshouldersbrewing]

"Expert". I don't think that word means what you think it does.

* Like others have noticed, this is not a self-belay video.

* I never noticed a knot check or belay commands.

* This is an outdated belay technique. Very dangerous.

* Let's say you have a 190# climber belayed by a 140# kid in a green shirt and the climber takes a screamer. The belayer quickly becomes the climber and the climber becomes a semi-conscious deadfall in need of medical attention. ALWAYS anchor your belay.

[Stmicheal]

Question, why does he have a crash pad for a rope tarp? Also this is a dangerous method for belaying and if you want to learn properly get taught by a professional not by youtube.

[ashley1scott]

@Stmicheal

I guess he is hoping that when is mate fall, he will land on the crash pad :D

[DrkSerenity]

is it because of not using auto locking device ?

[tuliro620]

I prefer REVERSO instead!

[youdavintube]

Don't learn how to belay from this video, or any video. Get a competent friend or instructor to show you.

Then show them this video and they'll cringe and tell you whats wrong with it. (It may take a while!)

[kensei85]

@youdavintube uh, no helmets?

[franksnb]

THIS SHOULD BE REMOVED



[mrky0923]

@franksnb Bump!!!

[psyconall]

Your gonna kill someone.

[ItalianTREK]

slide??? It's a new invention for breack your bones?

[mtnfun37]

This technique is very outdated and I agree this vid should be removed. Interesting that I read many comments trashing this guy, and those critic's suggestions were just as ridiculous. don't give a new climber a gri gri, most people use these wrong anyway and statistics indicate more accidents with those than with the belay method you are trashing. notice less gri gri in gyms?!

[Evak103]

who uses an ATC to belay anymore ?

[Evak103]

plain and simple use a GRI GRI or cinch if you are a first time climbing and belayer use the ATC as a rappel

also where was the "on belay belay on" question? where was the gear check for safty for the both of you? where is your helmet for falling rocks?

[Evak103]

plain and simple use a GRI GRI or cinch if you are a first time climbing and belayer use the ATC as a rappel

[myPlaygroundEarth]

wow! there is a lot wrong with this, PLEASE DONT LISTEN TO THESE PEOPLE YOU WILL DIE

[TheClimber75]

Never ever under any circumstances belay like this. unless you dislike the person you climb with so much you want them dead.

[lowowl]

everyones an expert. haha

[richyeilding]

Give him a break, this actually used to be the preferred method. back before ATC's, climbers used the munter hitch, where the break position is up (as opposed to down for modern belay devices). That's why this method still persists. I was actually taught this method when I started climbing years ago, but now I use the modern method (unless I'm using the munter of course).

[m191624]

I guess that not many actual 'experts' live in this so called 'Expert Village'? this is the most shody belay I have ever seen!! Put it this way ... I would not go climbing with that guy!

[ginnerste01]

you need to use the v nee 1 2 3 technique.

[Antonyfw]

DANGAROUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[robertoml1160]

what kind of belaying is that crap?!!

[eidreen]

That is SO NOT the way to belay with any tube device.

No way he would ever hold a lead fall like this. The ATC exerts ZERO braking force when the brake hand is above the device. This is plain dangerous!!

I cannot help but feel sorry for Dave and hope someone intervened before these morons hurt themselves - or others for that matter - seriously

[Dreampanos]

moron... DONT DO IT>>> unless your climber is suicidal and you have permission by him to kill him...

[hakachukai]

Dude... keep your hand out of the ATC!

If he falls when your hand is that close to the ATC you won't be able to stop him, plus you'll get the worse rope burn of your life!

[klzglz]

are you suposed to know about this? this is just wrong when he have his hand up if climber falls he is going to break... his bones

i prefer the "pull up-right,right-down,down-left"­..... safer

[hobbes808]

I don't even use this useless method when I belay with a grigri.

[davervr6]

Up, Down, Under, Slide is the proper technique. This guy is NOT an expert by any means.

[sand5pider]

bye dave!!

[sand5pider]

worst belaying technique ever...video should be removed before someone gets hurt!

[JapaneseAnya]

ahh at my school we do it otherwise.. like the 5 steps technique is that wrong?

[Munners369]

POSSIBLY THE WORST BELAYING TECHNIQUE ON EARTH!!!!! ABSOLUTELY TERRIBLE!

[iBahai09]

That's how NOT to belay Yourself While Rock Climbing.

Use this technique instead. watch?v=Ag3nikbMaAo

If you are a rookie buy your self Petzl's grigri.

[Superman5777]

THIS IS WRONG!!! DON'T USE THIS TECHNIQUE!!! Sorry buddy but that is not right! You leave your brake hand on at ALL TIMES!!! AND You do not bring the brake hands rope UP because that takes away the braking system!!!! The brake is over the ATC or DOWNWARDS. So you Take out the slack with the left hand then Punch your right hand forward and then shoot it downwards to LOCK IT OFF!!!

[greatshaitan]

bad bad mojo!

[freddage91]

Sorry dave, you're gonna die

[danimal77777]

Yep, this is risky, and the biner is backwards.

[c1my1k]

wit a numpty !!! Lavie heed.

WALK YOUR HANDS UP THE DEAD ROPE IN THE LOCKED OFF POSITION

I think I learned that when I was 10 lol, someone will fall on him one day.

[zpenergy]

this guy is an idiot, don't listen to him! someone will get killed with this technique!

[Max2905Ger]

I just can emphasize my pre-writer:

DON'T USE THIS TECHNIQUE

[cordeliadragon]

retire that rope - NOW!! a rope should have stretch, but you shouldnt have to fall half the distance you climbed to get the stretch out! take care of your gear,learn how to attach a belay device properly (should be using the big end of the HMS), learn the SAFE way to belay, THEN start putting things on youTube

[WorldClimb]

They actually teach this in gyms in America. If someone belays like this I won't climb with them. Everyone I've shown why this is bad has changed their style instantly.

[wishiniwasclimbing]

Right hand to brake position instantly, then pinch below brake hand!! --- slide slap slop whatever is dangerous. I will second all the other climbers on here and do not use this video as an example... and i would def not want this guy belaying me...

[N3rd133t]

EXPERT VILLAGE it seems to me that you are more or less making this up as you go along. I showed my friend this who is a mountain instructor and he was horrified that this was on the internet and people where watching it

LIKE Joeinnes0 says seek proper instruction or go climbing with a far more experienced climber than yourself if you have just started!

[Jolinator]

EXPERT VILLAGE YOU WILL GET SOMEONE KILLED. NOOBVILLAGE, bay belay technique, and your locker is backwards.

[sghardrocker]

ok..... first of all... his locking off is wrong, his thumb should be facing the ATC. second of all, hes paying no attention to his climber, and third of all, when your pulling slack what you should do is pull slack with your right hand, lock off, and pinch it with your left hand while sliding up your right hand and while you are sliding your hand, you simply loosen your grip so you can slide it and never take your hand off so if he does fall you just clench your fist and it catches the climber.

[mobgrazer]

where is the self belay like the title makes me think i'm going to see

[pdrums777]

i never done rock climbing but why dont he just hold the "end rope part" with 2 hands and just pull the slack through an up as he climbs?? so basically never touching the rope thats going up.. am i wrong??

[SuperTubbyTube]

this isn't how to belay yourself.. this is how to belay someone else. And, that technique works but is dangerous. If you dont know how to rock climb, dont try to learn on youtube!!!!

[jls1337]

i think its just sad how most of the "expertvillage" videos show questionable techniques...

[AsboxCore]

also blade of ice? I think you mean belay device.

[AsboxCore]

FAO Whoever writes up the subtitles, It's a bight of rope not a bite.

P.s Terrible

[Indiewalker80]

dave is such a random name... so if dave falls, does anybody care...

[pyrexmasta]

Expert Village is horrible, these people are about as experienced as someone who has climbed for a week.

[sghardrocker]

@pyrexmasta no less experienced

[IC3M4NX]

A word about warnings: ALWAYS GIVE YOUR BELAYER A WARNING if you are going to fall. It really isn't an option. The more heads up they get, the safer you will be, especially while lead climbing.

[prompelpilten]

Videos like this should be marked as "dangerous activity"... and hopefully youtube will take responsibility and put out these darwin award nomenees

[norvoort]

WORST CLIMBING VIDEO EVER, BAD TECHNIQUE, YOU WILL DROP YOUR CLIMBER IF YOU BELAY LIKE THIS.

The guy in this video does not know how to properly use an ATC, and he does not show it properly. I would not climb with this guy.

[RYDERkN]

@norvoort you are wrong, as the person falls the atc helps lock it up and it only requires about 5 pounds of force to keep a person from falling with the atc, the best way to belay is the way you feel most comfortable.

[norvoort]

@RYDERkN 5 pounds sounds about right... how many times have you been on a trip and found you couldn't apply 5 pounds of force with a pinch of the thumb and index finger? I can hardly believe I get the second most likes, and with all the other negative comments anyone bothers to try to defend a technique that is not only harder to learn, slower to react, and more likely to fail than the 4 other methods that I know, 2 of which I support and teach.

[burkinaflash]

@RYDERkN I know climbers can be obnoxious in that they all are opinionated and dogmatic about how to do things (and sometimes they swear by things that they can't back up logically) but I completely disagree with you on, "the best way to belay is the way you feel most comfortable". Belaying needs to be taken seriously and the manufacturer's instructions should always be followed.

[RYDERkN]

@burkinaflash there are several safe ways to belay and what i mean is, if ou are able to perfrom one technique of belaying well and safely and dont feel confident doing it a different way, then you should do it the way that you can do best.

[Pepmonster]

i dont think i'd use this method if my life depended on it... OH WAIT

[bajaexcursions]

I personally prefer the ATC vs the grigri, but this technique is wrong for me, specially that pinching moment and the fact that the guy is more interested talking to the camera than watching his climber, (min 2:34).

[12canada12]

....slip slap slide....the slap is meant to bring your left hand onto the working end (or his right hand) so that you can slid it back up...theses people fail...

[ashley1scott]

Dave falls over 7 foot, working on him being about 5'6. which is really bad belaying, or is that just me that thinks that.

[cloudyfalcon]

That's the same belay technique i learned. It used to be an institutional standard until the PBUS system was adopted. The key is not taking your brake hand off the rope.

[joshyredpepper]

This says "how to belay yourself " and there's someone belaying someone else, and as far as I know the only way to belay yourself is with a Grigri

[taneehua123]

I personally prefer a grigri better than an ATC

[joshyredpepper]

@taneehua123 Yeah because it is automatic and there's no plase for human mistake unless you put it in the wrong side but ATC is great for rapelling short distances is pretty fast

[F1X0R121]

@taneehua123 GriGris are great devices, don't get me wrong, I've got one myself. How ever its expensive, a bit unnecessary heavy as, and I wouldn't use it for trad climbing. I'd prefer a non-locking device on trad gear to stop it getting shocked so much.

[ThehairyHobbo]

And using a karabiner to attach your belay to your harness which was upside down by the way as the opposite end should take the load pressure is just sloppy. If this is aimed at beginer climbers as i assume it is i cant believe how irresponsible it is to put this video up. Also if it is aimed at beginers why are you not using a ground ancor so they can escape the system if the person they will be belaying has an accident?? Slip slap slid?? Idiot

[ThehairyHobbo]

If you use this belay tecnique you will eventually have a very serious accident no matter how good you are. Never clip onto your harness like that. That strap is not designed to take falls.

[ThehairyHobbo]

If you are using this video to learn to climb please stop before you have a serious accident. Get proper training with an instructor. I havnt seen a video this disturbing since watching 2 girls 1 cup.

[seahog32]

what pinch?!...i keep effing pinching myself watching this that i'm not dreaming!

[12345Strider]

unsafe!

[eclipsegsxhks1]

plz people plz do not watch theres and think your ready for the rocks!!!!!!! you will get hurt. u need pro and hands on training

[CSchaef02]

take expert village off youtube

[seahog32]

@CSchaef02 not necessarily all of them but man, this one is HORRIBLE!

[dbeland]

I've seen this taught at a local climbing gym with a GriGri. I agree with most of the other comments that this is NOT the best/safest way to belay. You should keep your brake hand downturned and it should be in the brake position before sliding your hand up. That way you are already prepared and ready to hold an unexpected fall.

[davidcross30]

oh my god how abot don't bother with belaying. this is dangerous . go to the brake position before movin your left hand down to the dead rope (brake side) then move your right hand further up the dead rope then left hand back up to the live rope to start the process again.

[gotdavid14]

dont pinch.

no helmets.

this is a bad video.

atleast they said commands.

[AndyMunTM]

never used one of this things i only use the 8 shaped things, don't know how they're called in english.

[SuperZizel]

me to

[Joeinnes0]

DON'T USE THIS TECHNIQUE...

This is a bad example- if the climber were to fall while he was "pinching"- the rope would just slip and he wouldn't be able to break the fall in time.

SEEK PROPER INSTRUCTION- From people who have a clue what they are doing... :P

[WeBeChillin420]

@Joeinnes0

:P  ?

[lupus1203]

there is nothing wrong with this. This is traditional belay technique. Even if a fall happens while he is "pinching" the rope, all he must do is bring the brake hand into a brake stance. Remember, all belay techniques with a device like this require you to pull the rope out of brake, everytime you take slack

[tmanf22]

@lupus1203 Very true. the ATC and rope have more to do with fall prevention than the technique used, plus this technique is fast and smooth for the climber and keeps rope drag down (from ATC). Moreover, unless you are not paying attention or you have a super slow reaction timing this technique is super safe. Remember for about 200 years people body belayed!

[jjnicok]

@Joeinnes0 ---> how dare you, this is the most effective way to belay. I am an super expert - i have 3 weeks of experience , got my equipment from REI, and seen stalone 1000 times in Cliffhanger.

[garloish]

@Joeinnes0

right: SEEK PROPER INSTRUCTION

expertvillage you're a dangerous moron. pericoloso coglione .

[lexdunn101]

never pinch.

[SkipperCharles]

ahah the B lay device =P

although the black dimond atc is a hell of a belay plate =)

[betterThanYoda]

??? he's belaying someone else, I thought this was a belay yourself vid

[gotdavid14]

you can belay your self with a grigri.

just tie in with a follow through-eight.

and put a grigri on the belay end.

attach the grgri to ur harness

and take up slack every few feet.

if u fall lke this u can fall twice as far as a normal toprope climb.

anyways climb on

[HATTSTER1]

DANGEROUS!!!!..do not use this technique!!...plus theres noway in hell he can hold 10 TIMES!! his own body weight as stated...someone twice his weight would probly shoot him up that wall pronto if he fell off..guys a DOOFUS!!

[coolcat83]

This is an older technique and not recommended anymore as it does not allow as much holding force and more error prone, and your break hand comes out of the brake position, using the palms down method is safer and recommended by the amga and other guiding associations

[stratfol]

very poor and dangerous technique. what's with amateurs posting instructional videos? i'd advise all the concerned climbers posting here to flag this as dangerous and get it taken down.

[zacharydlove]

If you want a proper technique, after you straighten out your braking hand (this guy's right hand), come across with your guiding hand (his left hand) and grab the slack rope just behind your right hand. With your left hand now applying the brake to the device, you can slide your right hand to the base of the ATC and bring your left hand back up to keep taking slack.

[jem4198]

If the climber falls when you're only pinching the rope with left hand, the rope will run away from him! IDIOT!

[ashthegreat]

@jem4198 The left hand doens't affect the rope's friction. Only the right hand does. Know about it before you make stupid claims.

[geko2sheffield]

This is very poor technique.

DO NOT FOLLOW THIS EXAMPLE

[dangerousdave321]

Its known as the Californian technique I think... And its damn stupid

[Lambda25]

Nothing "expert" about this video....

[oisinfab]

Fraid you are teaching people howto pot kill each other! You are an Arse!

[a2m0e0n7]

expertvillage?? More like jokaville!! This is mental and should be pulled before this idiot gets someone killed.

[gibbootneck]

This video should be removed before someone gets hurt as a result of it. What on earth is this guy thinking?

[simongeering]

This bloke is a danger to his climber. This is very bad technique. The golden rule in belaying is to keep the rope in the locked off braking positon except for the short moment in which you are taking in rope. Completely the oposit to this idiot.

[06michwatsblue]

as if the climber actualy saw him do this and still climbed. crazy and stupid

[kennygillen]

Don't ever do this!

[eiger13026]

What a disgrace! You wouldn't have him anywhere near the crag with you let alone belaying!

[jjb2004mk2]

THe worst belaying Iv'e ever seen

[waltlankor]

Someone should pull this video!

[stewdickson]

Agree with Simon, this is bloody dangerous. The rope is in the unlocked position for FAR too long, the pinching of the rope is ludicrous and the locking hand is way too near the belay device when it slides down.

[simonbullen300]

Errrrrrr you go and need to learn a new belay technique you are a danger to all those you climb with. If your partner was leading and you had the rope up in the air holding it with a pinch and your partner takes a fall you will never hold it. PACK IT IN AND LEARN TO BELAY PROPERLY. Also please stop posting on here claiming to be an expert. YOU ARE NOT

[alex00000000002]

Jesus holding both the live end and the dead end at the same time. This guy is a liability to anyone that climbs with him!

Guys do not take this video's advice, if his mate fell when he was holding the rope bite and the live end of the rope his mate Dave will deck!!!

[littlejoeuk]

eeshh, I wouldn't want him holding my rope....

[JamClare]

So..so wrong! change hands whilst locked off!

[GixxxerKim]

Very nice. Informative clear precise.

[legendtwig]

But insanely dangerous!

[naomiscooldad]

i remember doing that stuff..

at the YMCA on the fake mountain.. but it was taller than usual fake rock climbing things..

i miss doing that stuff.