Mate chuck some corner beads on there plum them up, throw on a coat of (Specialized) MLC, mesh it screed it, rock off any dags then two coats of Float Coat and your done. Nice sharp corners tho by the looks. Good job.
@seargentbrainfry I did one job where I used external stop beads between two town houses. Yes two coat is the way to go. This particular job though was in the Country. I have not heard of specialised MLC. Thanks for the comment. I remember talking to some British plasterers and telling me the way they do things in U.K things are done a little differently here but we are always open to new or old ideas. To keep an open mind.
@ron1martens yeah Masonry Leveling Compound shes good shit mate you can put it on up to 50mm thick (not that you would unless the blockys completely fucking hopeless) nice and light too, just glides on. I don't know if you have something like that there in Oz but you should its f*n brilliant.
@007beany1 Yes doing a single coat is not desirable. The mortar seemed to dry extremely fast on these bricks so it took a bit of working to get the desired finish. Because of the railing on the back and the fact the mortar went off so fast I decided to do the reveals and then the face otherwise it would have been a disaster. I use different products now to slow drying time. So when I have a chance I will submit anther video.
@breconmafia Thankyou. I think bessey make similar clamps. They are far enough away so you can get behind and work on wall. We used to bend 6mm and 8mm rod to act as spring clamps but when you remove clamps sometimes it used to knock the corners off when removing straight edge.
@zombiekiller09DF Oops don't tell anyone. I slipped out of the Country and changed my identity. By gosh you are right there is a bit of resemblance there.
@COCACOLAwithpizza Yes you are right. It is always a careful process to remove straight edges as usually you knock off your corners. Thats why I choose to use those types of clamps opposed to steel rods bent into like springs. I know what you are talking about. I have gone aways from using lime in my mortar as I have found a new product that replaces lime.
@ron1martens thx for taking the time to respond.and great tutorial by the way.yes i dont like to use lime either,people recans that lime gives a better finishing than plastermassa[clay] but i prefer to use clay.not bad for your skin or eyes and what gives a good finishing its a good set of sponges imop
@StRaPZzYHD m8 dont waste your time with plastering[rendering] defenetely go to plumbering or electricion or even formwork...but plaster its shit.its hard work and durty but thats not the worst part.the worst part its the 99.9%of the render companies they all a bunch of cowboys cause 1 labour and 2 renders and 1 mixa its a companie.they dont pay the rights they work iligaly.and the ones who do the right thing only last 6months cause of the competitive cote prices.its a road to nowhere!
@StRaPZzYHD like if u think im being very negative about it trust me...open the newspaper go to the job section and look for render positions...theres none.its not even concidered a trade...trust me i wasted my life doing it for 14 years until i broked my foot,wich my boss[friend]didnt even lodged the insurence papers.go for something wich its actualy a TRADE and dont waste your life doing this shit
@jw63418 Hello. I generally make the mix for sand finish render 5.5 sand 1 cement 1 dehydrated lime. The sand should be plasterers sand with only a small clay content. The lime gives the mortar workable life. Lately I have been adding bondcrete in the mix this seems to have a more adherent. I found the render doesn't crack as much adding the bondcrete. Making the render too strong causes cracks the cement manufacturers recommend 5:1:1 but a bit weaker 5.5 :1:1 is alright for external work.
@jw63418 Hello jw. I normally make the ratio 5 and one half sand one cement and one dehydrated lime. The sand should be plasterers sand with a low clay content. Lately I have been adding bondcrete in the mix this gives the mortar bonding which may reduce cracking. Too strong a mix may result in cracking. The cement manufacturers have recommendations on the bags. The lime with bondcrete should give the mortar good workability. Thankyou for the interest.
questions.. after u got it perfect how did u do the face without ruining all ur had work? how did u get ur bullnose when u have one face done and one not? how long between floating and sponging because there should av been enough moisture in the mud still to not need the hose again. Y didnt u do it all in 1 go? it can NOT have been that hot/windy?? where r u? in perth by chance coz there is a ron in the paper.. honestly u dont need to go to all that trouble, takes too long, how u make money??!!?
@bigabs18281 hello bigabs. Yes there is a Ron the plasterer in the paper but its not me. The job was done in Australin. And the bricks dried very quick.(Summer time) And because I had 4 corners which required time because of steel railing, I did face afterwards. The job was day rate so I can concentrate on doing good work. The bullnoses turned out fine after face was done.
@ron1martens cool... i dont know y that dude says use a brush, the sprayer is fine, if i dont have the reel i use the $6 dazzler from bunnings they work fine on mist.. where did u get a marsheltown sponge, sounds impressive! yeah if i have 1 dry/finished face i just hate makin a bullie out of it and a fresh face..
thats the thing with plasterers, they all think their way is the only way....
@bigabs18281 I agree with you bigabs in both instances. Yes its better to put the whole lot on and work off corners. But its also better to work off render when its still moist and not really hard where you need to use a lot of water to bring it back. the long heads above garage were recessed lintels and only two bricks. You seen the amount of water I had to use just on those nibs. I would have had the whole lot on and everything would be hard before I had a chance to work off even after soaking
@bigabs18281 If you can imagine you work on a large building then you stop on the corners. Then when you do the other wall, you blend in the corners. I made myself a bullnose sponge float. It works great so you don't need to go too much over the old work and you don't see where you blended in. You can buy a marshalltown sponge float in Malaga 100 metres east of bunnings on Marshall road. The sponge is more firm better in my view than the ones with lines cut.
you my friend should not be plastering ....................why are you not returning your walls/reveals and where is your brush stop stop stop put the hose down
@ehaug Very interesting comment ehaug. Have you read my other replies before making this statement? Most plasterers use a fine mist spray hose to rub the walls and sponge float afterwards. Plastering suppliers sell reeled hose with brass attachments. Normally I would push the whole wall, set straight edges on reveals then push that on. But it was the middle of summer being a one coat with four nibs the walls were going off too fast so I opted this way then pushed on the face and bullnosed.
i don't know you will have to ask Ron the builder that. He knows how to set so he must also be a plasterer. You posted in the wrong page but thank you for watching and I do hope you enjoyed the show.
Yeah, your right, "old school" is what we call it, no beads, rules,straight edge, etc, thats how i was brought up, But its a thing people (customers) ask for specific, these days, some of the kids over here would not know how to use a rule, great talkin to you, ps. have a look at that dick head, ron the plasterer on you tube.
Normally I would prefer to do two coat render and put the whole lot on at once then set up straight edges. The front was done with straight edges set up. and bull nosed. Beading on external work especially near the sea is not a good idea as it would rust and blow out the render. If you mix the right ratio of render, it will not get damaged from knocks. I can show you some of my work years after and no damage. if you hit a corner hard enough only a small patch needed opposed to replacing a bead
Why did you not use, stainless stop end beads, on an area that is going to be prone to knocks, and leave a better finish to the facing brick, gonna do it do it right.
I have never used beading on exterior work and probably won't. i think a bullnose looks a lot better and you won't have any problems in years to come. Even with stainless steel beads its not guaranteed that it won't rust. I have heard people say. You can't even get stainless steel beads (special order)and are expensive so not really an option.
I tell you what. I will make a response photo video of the front being rendered and then see what you think.
I know what your saying, but you are talking to people who are not as experienced as you and i, there are all manner of beads these days readily available, stainless, plastic coated, fibreglass etc, i have done lots of exterior rendering jobs from about 20 yrs ago, and still look as good today, good advise, but keep it simple for the people wanting to learn a bit quickly, keep it up Vic.
I see you are based in the U.K I have spoked to plasterers from U.K. we don't have as many beads available here in Australia. Although I have noticed plastic beads coming in but haven't seen stainless steel beads.
I like to show people learning the trade and other people a way of getting nib walls right. I failed to mention the rest of the work was also being rendered. Mostly in Australia beading is not used externally, Thank you for comments. We share similar interests and to share our method
Mate chuck some corner beads on there plum them up, throw on a coat of (Specialized) MLC, mesh it screed it, rock off any dags then two coats of Float Coat and your done. Nice sharp corners tho by the looks. Good job.
seargentbrainfry 2 weeks ago
@seargentbrainfry I did one job where I used external stop beads between two town houses. Yes two coat is the way to go. This particular job though was in the Country. I have not heard of specialised MLC. Thanks for the comment. I remember talking to some British plasterers and telling me the way they do things in U.K things are done a little differently here but we are always open to new or old ideas. To keep an open mind.
ron1martens 2 weeks ago
@ron1martens yeah Masonry Leveling Compound shes good shit mate you can put it on up to 50mm thick (not that you would unless the blockys completely fucking hopeless) nice and light too, just glides on. I don't know if you have something like that there in Oz but you should its f*n brilliant.
seargentbrainfry 2 weeks ago
Fucks about a bit! Nice job though!
007beany1 4 weeks ago
@007beany1 Yes doing a single coat is not desirable. The mortar seemed to dry extremely fast on these bricks so it took a bit of working to get the desired finish. Because of the railing on the back and the fact the mortar went off so fast I decided to do the reveals and then the face otherwise it would have been a disaster. I use different products now to slow drying time. So when I have a chance I will submit anther video.
ron1martens 4 weeks ago
nice job, not seen those clamps before we don't have them in the uk
breconmafia 1 month ago
@breconmafia Thankyou. I think bessey make similar clamps. They are far enough away so you can get behind and work on wall. We used to bend 6mm and 8mm rod to act as spring clamps but when you remove clamps sometimes it used to knock the corners off when removing straight edge.
ron1martens 1 month ago
time is money mate, chop chop.
alzzzie 2 months ago
@alzzzie Yes I know but if you price your jobs then you can achieve a desired finish, get paid and be recommended.
ron1martens 4 weeks ago
Are you sure your not called ralph coates cos you could do a great comb over.
zombiekiller09DF 3 months ago
@zombiekiller09DF Oops don't tell anyone. I slipped out of the Country and changed my identity. By gosh you are right there is a bit of resemblance there.
ron1martens 3 months ago
ron u should teach how to remove the straight edges.
COCACOLAwithpizza 8 months ago
@COCACOLAwithpizza Yes you are right. It is always a careful process to remove straight edges as usually you knock off your corners. Thats why I choose to use those types of clamps opposed to steel rods bent into like springs. I know what you are talking about. I have gone aways from using lime in my mortar as I have found a new product that replaces lime.
ron1martens 8 months ago
@ron1martens thx for taking the time to respond.and great tutorial by the way.yes i dont like to use lime either,people recans that lime gives a better finishing than plastermassa[clay] but i prefer to use clay.not bad for your skin or eyes and what gives a good finishing its a good set of sponges imop
COCACOLAwithpizza 8 months ago
Plastering or plumbing, in 2 minds what to go into as a career?
StRaPZzYHD 1 year ago
@StRaPZzYHD As a career making money you will get more pay being a plumber
as you need a license to become one. You can make money doing anything if you have a business sense. But I enjoy plastering.
ron1martens 1 year ago
@StRaPZzYHD m8 dont waste your time with plastering[rendering] defenetely go to plumbering or electricion or even formwork...but plaster its shit.its hard work and durty but thats not the worst part.the worst part its the 99.9%of the render companies they all a bunch of cowboys cause 1 labour and 2 renders and 1 mixa its a companie.they dont pay the rights they work iligaly.and the ones who do the right thing only last 6months cause of the competitive cote prices.its a road to nowhere!
COCACOLAwithpizza 8 months ago
@StRaPZzYHD like if u think im being very negative about it trust me...open the newspaper go to the job section and look for render positions...theres none.its not even concidered a trade...trust me i wasted my life doing it for 14 years until i broked my foot,wich my boss[friend]didnt even lodged the insurence papers.go for something wich its actualy a TRADE and dont waste your life doing this shit
COCACOLAwithpizza 8 months ago
Thanks for the video.
Can you tell me what mix you use? In particular do you add clay to the mix?
jw63418 1 year ago
@jw63418 Hello. I generally make the mix for sand finish render 5.5 sand 1 cement 1 dehydrated lime. The sand should be plasterers sand with only a small clay content. The lime gives the mortar workable life. Lately I have been adding bondcrete in the mix this seems to have a more adherent. I found the render doesn't crack as much adding the bondcrete. Making the render too strong causes cracks the cement manufacturers recommend 5:1:1 but a bit weaker 5.5 :1:1 is alright for external work.
ron1martens 1 year ago
@jw63418 Hello jw. I normally make the ratio 5 and one half sand one cement and one dehydrated lime. The sand should be plasterers sand with a low clay content. Lately I have been adding bondcrete in the mix this gives the mortar bonding which may reduce cracking. Too strong a mix may result in cracking. The cement manufacturers have recommendations on the bags. The lime with bondcrete should give the mortar good workability. Thankyou for the interest.
ron1martens 1 year ago
questions.. after u got it perfect how did u do the face without ruining all ur had work? how did u get ur bullnose when u have one face done and one not? how long between floating and sponging because there should av been enough moisture in the mud still to not need the hose again. Y didnt u do it all in 1 go? it can NOT have been that hot/windy?? where r u? in perth by chance coz there is a ron in the paper.. honestly u dont need to go to all that trouble, takes too long, how u make money??!!?
bigabs18281 1 year ago
@bigabs18281 hello bigabs. Yes there is a Ron the plasterer in the paper but its not me. The job was done in Australin. And the bricks dried very quick.(Summer time) And because I had 4 corners which required time because of steel railing, I did face afterwards. The job was day rate so I can concentrate on doing good work. The bullnoses turned out fine after face was done.
ron1martens 1 year ago
@ron1martens cool... i dont know y that dude says use a brush, the sprayer is fine, if i dont have the reel i use the $6 dazzler from bunnings they work fine on mist.. where did u get a marsheltown sponge, sounds impressive! yeah if i have 1 dry/finished face i just hate makin a bullie out of it and a fresh face..
thats the thing with plasterers, they all think their way is the only way....
bigabs18281 1 year ago
@bigabs18281 I agree with you bigabs in both instances. Yes its better to put the whole lot on and work off corners. But its also better to work off render when its still moist and not really hard where you need to use a lot of water to bring it back. the long heads above garage were recessed lintels and only two bricks. You seen the amount of water I had to use just on those nibs. I would have had the whole lot on and everything would be hard before I had a chance to work off even after soaking
ron1martens 1 year ago
@bigabs18281 If you can imagine you work on a large building then you stop on the corners. Then when you do the other wall, you blend in the corners. I made myself a bullnose sponge float. It works great so you don't need to go too much over the old work and you don't see where you blended in. You can buy a marshalltown sponge float in Malaga 100 metres east of bunnings on Marshall road. The sponge is more firm better in my view than the ones with lines cut.
ron1martens 1 year ago
@ron1martens cheers ill go check it out on the weekend... i drive past there nearly everyday!
bigabs18281 1 year ago
@bigabs18281 How did you go with the sponge float? Have you got to use it yet?
ron1martens 1 year ago
you my friend should not be plastering ....................why are you not returning your walls/reveals and where is your brush stop stop stop put the hose down
ehaug 1 year ago
@ehaug Very interesting comment ehaug. Have you read my other replies before making this statement? Most plasterers use a fine mist spray hose to rub the walls and sponge float afterwards. Plastering suppliers sell reeled hose with brass attachments. Normally I would push the whole wall, set straight edges on reveals then push that on. But it was the middle of summer being a one coat with four nibs the walls were going off too fast so I opted this way then pushed on the face and bullnosed.
ron1martens 1 year ago
ron the builder is no plasterer, shites a better word
wozy1971 2 years ago
i don't know you will have to ask Ron the builder that. He knows how to set so he must also be a plasterer. You posted in the wrong page but thank you for watching and I do hope you enjoyed the show.
ron1martens 2 years ago
Yeah, your right, "old school" is what we call it, no beads, rules,straight edge, etc, thats how i was brought up, But its a thing people (customers) ask for specific, these days, some of the kids over here would not know how to use a rule, great talkin to you, ps. have a look at that dick head, ron the plasterer on you tube.
MrShovelit 2 years ago
sorry, ron the builder, that is, cheers Vic.
MrShovelit 2 years ago
Normally I would prefer to do two coat render and put the whole lot on at once then set up straight edges. The front was done with straight edges set up. and bull nosed. Beading on external work especially near the sea is not a good idea as it would rust and blow out the render. If you mix the right ratio of render, it will not get damaged from knocks. I can show you some of my work years after and no damage. if you hit a corner hard enough only a small patch needed opposed to replacing a bead
ron1martens 2 years ago
Why did you not use, stainless stop end beads, on an area that is going to be prone to knocks, and leave a better finish to the facing brick, gonna do it do it right.
MrShovelit 2 years ago
I have never used beading on exterior work and probably won't. i think a bullnose looks a lot better and you won't have any problems in years to come. Even with stainless steel beads its not guaranteed that it won't rust. I have heard people say. You can't even get stainless steel beads (special order)and are expensive so not really an option.
I tell you what. I will make a response photo video of the front being rendered and then see what you think.
ron1martens 2 years ago
I know what your saying, but you are talking to people who are not as experienced as you and i, there are all manner of beads these days readily available, stainless, plastic coated, fibreglass etc, i have done lots of exterior rendering jobs from about 20 yrs ago, and still look as good today, good advise, but keep it simple for the people wanting to learn a bit quickly, keep it up Vic.
MrShovelit 2 years ago
I see you are based in the U.K I have spoked to plasterers from U.K. we don't have as many beads available here in Australia. Although I have noticed plastic beads coming in but haven't seen stainless steel beads.
I like to show people learning the trade and other people a way of getting nib walls right. I failed to mention the rest of the work was also being rendered. Mostly in Australia beading is not used externally, Thank you for comments. We share similar interests and to share our method
ron1martens 2 years ago