Added: 5 years ago
From: manaslu8000
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  • I hope he bought a new rope after that...

  • Oh come on, he let go. That ain't a fall. Hope that was a figure 8.

    Happy climbing.

  • Would love to fall from that Hight, although I wouldn't want to hit the rock on the way down. Great fall

  • that was close )

  • when i was 10 i was buush walking up a mountain and my friend was really close to the edge cause she wanted to see the view and she told me to come so i did and there was a part of lose gravil and my friend her name was Jessie slipped and grabbed me when we were falling i bumped my arm and there waas blood but there was water under neath us and then we hit the water and i got so cranky at her and then we had to swim for ages to get to shore!!!!!!

  • OMG i thought he had no rope atached to him

  • ive seen/done bigger:) so much fun

  • theres just one thing to say:

    DICKHEAD!

  • Hey if you like your body weight plus 18m of gravity pulling on your junk that's all you bro.

  • @OmJarr Couldent have said it better myself :b haha

  • why???

  • @tonmereestgross why not.... :)

  • *DING* ... 5 UIAA falls left ...

  • @Towamba

    uiaa falls are 80 kg about 50m

  • @MultiNilon Mhh.... NO :-)

  • @Towamba UIAA fall factors are a measure of distance vs rope in the system, it also requires a totally static belay. It is a 1.8 factor fall on 5 meters of rope. This looks like a 0.3 factor fall - it wouldn't even come close to harming the rope. A good explanation is at ukclimbing, or the petzl website

  • @MultiNilon UIAA fall factors are a measure of distance vs rope in the system, it also requires a totally static belay. It is a 1.8 factor fall on 5 meters of rope. This looks like a 0.3 factor fall - it wouldn't even come close to harming the rope. A good explanation is at ukclimbing, or the petzl website

  • @Digdigs2

    ok thanks, i think its quite impossible to fall 1.8 factor fall because when the fall is that hard, it becomes impossible

    to belay totally static.. let´s just say: Ropes never tear :)

    sory for my english

  • test

  • What is this factor "based" on. How does a factor 1 fall compare to the 1.77 falls, length?

  • @NsOSnipSU It is a rate f=H/L between the lenght of the fall (H) and total rope length between climber's knot and bleayers belaying device, thus a total "active" rope length (L). So even if you take a 20 meter whipper, but you have entire 60 meter long rope already dragged in the route, than you have f=20/60=0,33. That's not very much, huh? So a fall with factor f=1 is when you fall the same distance as the active rope length. You can even take a fall with factor f=2, but you don't want that ;-)

  • Absolutely, without a doubt, 100%, intentional.

    Equally stupid.

  • @Brad117485 Then I guess, you too hoped he forgot to rope himself up? =)

  • Comment removed

  • @Brad117485 Dynamic rope and bolts... why stupid? It's not like he even fell that far.

  • @Digdigs2 Well when that bolt gets weakened from assholes like him, I'll be sure to let you be the next one up.

    

  • @Brad117485 Whatever... have a read of the BMC or Petzl websites for a basic understanding of belay forces on bolts. This guy has not loaded the bolt that much at all, and certainly not enough to weaken it.

  • @Digdigs2 In ideal conditions, no he's not pushing the safety factor; however, you dont make assumptions about how well the bolt is placed, who placed it, or the age or condition. I work in the rigging industry, we build and install machines to test synthetic ropes and hardware. You're not going to tell me what is right or wrong. Unfortunately, a lot sport climbing spots are constantly being scrutinized for safety concerns and subsequent liability- and rightfully so. Be a good steward.

  • @Brad117485 I worked for 3 yrs as a height safety specialist - one of my main duties was anchor installation & testing of old anchors. At Rodellar bolts are generally well placed & installed, Euros seem to place better bolts than in the US.

    That said, even a bad bolt would need a fair bit of outward force to dislodge it, more than the load here. Either way the next bolt down was high enough to stop him before the ground - redundancy is present in the system. As for a bolt being 'weakened' pfft!

  • @Digdigs2 I'd say weakening of the bolt is a realistic concern (or at least weakening of the hanger). Metal parts do fatigue after repeated loading, and victory whippers just add to that fatigue. Shock loads can also turn properly fixed hangers into spinners, especially on soft rock (e.g. sandstone)

    Personally, I do everything I can to reduce wear on fixed equipment. No intentional falls, generally lead within my capabilities, and I try to rap off instead of lowering whenever possible.

  • @MakeFoodNow If the force is low enough, i.e. fall factor <0.3, which this fall was, as would almost all sport falls be, the fatigue to the bolt will be so minimal you'd be replacing it due to the wear the 'binder creates or old age before the fatigue due to the falls....

    This is limestone, not sandstone.... anyway anyone who uses expansion bolts on sandstone is asking for trouble - glue-ins are the way to go. But it is TIME that causes the problem with expansion bolts, not loading.

  • @MakeFoodNow look at this: routes. sydneyrockies. org. au / display / the lab / Fatigue+testing

    just get rid of the spaces

    the fall in the video would have registered 3kn absolute tops. A rally hash fall leaving a badly injured climber MAY generate 12kn - they'd be in hospital with broken ribs at the least... and their belayer would want to be running to the border.

  • @Digdigs2 Actually - glue-ins should be the standard for bolts everywhere - much safer, longer lasting, can't be tampered with easily and there is no hanger to wear through. Expansion bolts are cheaper and easier to place - but like all cheap easy things probably best as a one-night stand.

  • @Digdigs2 Yeah correctly placed glue in's are great till they saw through them with a darn top rope.

  • @1942JJ yeah... takes a while though - just time to replace them... or use threaded rod with screw-on eyelets, then the eyelet can be replaced at will. An added bonus is that because they rotate it is not possible to put torsional load on the rod, thus stressing the glue. Downside is that the are a bit bigger and more visible.

  • @Brad117485 nah man, even some pro's jump off after making a big send

  • had that happen to me once. not even close to that distance though. goddamn.

  • definitely some skid marks on that one...

  • No children for that guy now

  • This is what's called a "victory whipper"

    Incidentally, this is extremely bad for the anchors, and is life-threatening for future climbers. But hey, you had your fun, and that's all that matters, right?

  • @MakeFoodNow only if you're climbing sport. what if this was trad and they put their own anchor up?

  • Ok American people,let me translate the description for you.

    - After going all the way up on the Nanuk (7c) route,Victor asked me 4 meters of rope,he jumped and flew almost 20 meters!

    Thumbs up so people can see.

  • weird. his last piece of pro was at the under hang and he was three feet from it. Why did he fall so far unless the belayer had 20+ feet of slack out?!?!?!?! what the heck happened?

  • I will I knew every fucking language in the world >.<

  • nice

  • Well, if this is not enough perspective to get over my lowsey fear of single clip falling..

  • One hell of a wedgie that was...

  • it woulda been raining shit if that was me

  • Good luck undoing that knot!

  • @kristhe1andonly Double bowline??

  • @Dazzar456 oh yeah that would be fine :) but generaly its a Figure of eight.

  • @kristhe1andonly that knot? 

  • Bet there was a shit waiting in ya trousers after that :P

  • That was not a fall . He intentionally jumped.

  • scary:D

  • atomic wedgie!

  • @mackdaddypimp32 the ropes stretch slightly- thankfully that guy, or now we'd be calling him susan. 

  • @EvilLamas ahahaha yeah it prolly woulda chopped his shit off hahaha

  • Hmmmmm, that appeared mayyybbeee staged. Look at how the camera framed the shot, with the climber at the verrrrry top of the frame. Lol. So he could capture the whole fall. .. it seems like a possibility at least!

  • @Qu1ntum maybe they were showing how good the ropes are

  • chris sharma

  • That's a JUMP not a fall. I really hope that wasn't the anker you were jumping off from. That would just be dumb. Ever considered that other people are rapelling down from there and rely on it?

    I meand what is the point in taking such a whipper? It's not like you were actually falling on the lead but more like a toprope fall with 18 m of slack rope. If that wasn't intentional I would seriously consider changing your belayer.

  • dios

  • WTF? Should be way more leads!

  • The comments here make me cringe at the history of our sport being lost. Dan Osman's ropes were not weathered and he and friends jumped multiple (10 or so) times on the rig. Black Diamond analyzed the rope and said they looked almost new despite being up for a month. The most likely cause is the tyrol got somehow taken out of the system, eliminating the shock absorber. There is no authoritative answer though.

  • @angrywetsuit I used to be on YOSAR and from what I read in Accidents in North American Mountaineering is that weathered equipment was a possible factor. I knew Dano and knew a bunch of his friends if there is anyone to remind us of the old saying it's him. "There's Bold Climbers and Old Climbers but no Bold Old Climbers. "

  • why did he tie the rope around his dick? o right, he was looking to make it 12" of the best

  • Yeahhhhhh,subidon subidon!!!!jajajajajaja

    Que bueno!!hay debio ganar 2 años de vida!!xD

    Muy bueno.

  • so lucky his rope didn't snap. fucking dumbass. set anchors every 10-15 feet.

  • @rjholling chuck norris doesnt need rope and anchors!

  • @15CenterMass

    chuck norris got a jetpack

  • @rjholling Dude, are you a climber? Those ropes don't snap at human weight, no matter how hard you abuse them! The biggest danger in such fall is to hit the rock when it is vertical.

    Here is overhang, and there is enough space between the climber and the rock and unless he brakes all the anchors (impossible) I don't see real danger in this situation!

    It's scary though...

    

  • @bobs101 Not entirely true. Usually the climber will break before the rope. But if the rope is "abused" it can break. Dan Osman.

  • @bobs101 "those ropes dont snap at human weight"

    yep...tell that to dave osman

  • @akalestos1983 Who the tits is Dave Osman? And Dan jumped with Body Weight + Gear + extra rope, on a weathered rope.

  • @michaeld916  sorry dan

  • @akalestos1983 The ropes don't snap at human weight given proper precautions... DAN (not Dave) Osman died from the rope snapping because he left an ALREADY-OLD rope outside for a MONTH in snow and rain weather.

  • @A0den yes but when you take a fall its not just you and the rope,there is also sharp rock...overall i agree with you

  • vaya susto

  • lol

  • spiderman!

  • this fall would be more exciting to watch if it wasn't planned.

  • Looks like a fun dive, obviously planned. You should really have your belayer give a more dynamic catch..

  • this rope go to the garbage now

  • no idea why ppl mark this comment down. the rope should definitely throw away now, or be like dan oasma use same rope to jump twice and rope snapped 2nd time

  • @jk2l actually the rope dint snap at least how i understand it dan moved his take off spot and added more rope. during the fall the ropes became tangled and the friction burnt threw the rope. so it was not a equipment failure :) how ever it works dan is the fcking man rip

  • @jk2l I think what happened to him was he was doing some 'controlled free falls' in yosemite. The rope (and old, used one) melted bcuz of entanglement.

  • Jump!

  • that aint shit** i fell 8 months ago 40 feet with no rope--only broken back and brain surgery-- check out my climb on washington states highest non volcanoe "bonanza peak"

  • Damn you didn't die. lol JOOOOOOOOOKES, hope you feel better!

  • @braxstoned fucking troll

  • you should be proud!

  • @braxtoned: .... ONLY broken back and brain surgery. Geez, glad ya didnt do something serious like twist your ankle or get scrapped up.

  • Fuck! I think he's spraying!

  • @braxstoned

    lol

  • That ain't shit** I fell yesterday ago 300 feet with no back-- only broken brain and rope surgery.

  • Comment removed

  • Ropes are rated to sustain a certain number of factor 2 falls. If I took a factor 2 fall, I'd quit climbing, but the rope should still be good.

    This fall was nowhere near a factor 2 fall, perhaps .5 The only way to achieve a factor 2 fall is to fall twice the distance of the rope beyond the belay, impossible to do single pitch climbing because you'd be on the ground.

  • Comment removed

  • To maniga3004:

    Well, you are not really excused. You know you are a beginner, so why would you comment on such technical stuff without checking the facts? (And by doing that, you spread false information) It's easy to check the facts. It's all explained well in the leaflet that came with your climbing rope.

    Maybe you don't have a climbing rope...

  • Oh sorry, I made a mistake. Shame on me. It was a oversight. You never made a mistake in your life?

    I think its not common in Youtube that someone says "Sorry, I made a mistake". So accept that!

    The comments should be used to discuss a theme! I wrote bullshit, about the factor, and someone corrected it. But nevertheless I am right with the fact that after some (more than I thought, with the mistake -> that means no life was in danger, only some money) of these falls you should buy a new rope

  • want a blight

  • Oh, and somthing else. The comment I was answering to, is much much more dangerous than mine was. Because ropes are not made for hundreds of this falls. Every fall makes the rope weaker, and the chance that the rope snaps gets higher. Thats why in the leaflet of your rope is a table where you should enter the history of your rope, so you can sort it out after some bad falls.

  • "Because ropes are not made for hundreds of this falls. Every fall makes the rope weaker, and the chance that the rope snaps gets higher."

    I can't stand the term "rope snaps". It makes it sound like ropes just randomly break.

    Actually, ropes are made for hundreds of factor 1ish falls. That fall count rating on your rope is "how many fall factor 1.78 falls can your rope take *at the same spot* before breaking, with an 80kg weight.

    Sport climbers routinely take hundreds of falls on a rope.

  • @thekobaz

    remind me not to climb on your rope...

  • @karalittle

    I probably should have been more specific. On a 10.5 rope, based on anecdotal evidence from myself and other climbers, you can take a hundred or more soft falls (<= 1.0 fall factor) without compromising the integrity of your rope, given that they are clean falls without the rope seeing abrasion and etc.

    What do you do with your rope after a fall? Do you retire your rope after the fall count? If you do, you must have a lot of money for buying new ropes.

  • @thekobaz

    I guess when you posted info about falls on this video, I assumed this is the kind of fall you were referring to. As for me, I'm a very conservative climber and have never been in a situation like this where a fall of this magnitude was likely to happen.

  • @karalittle

    The fall distance by itself is not an indication of the forces that were put on the system. It's hard to tell the exact fall factor from the fall in the video, but it's not a very severe fall as there was a lot of rope out and the climber was maybe 6 meters above the ground after the fall. With that assumption and an 18m fall. 6+18+18=42m total rope out / 18m fall = 0.42 fall factor. We don't know the diameter of the rope, but if it's a 9.8 or 10.0 or more, the rope was fine.

  • Can you explain that? If a factor 2 fall is just falling double the rope length past the belay then a climber 2 feet above the belay would only have to fall 4 feet to be a factor 2?

    I'm not a climber so excuse my ignorance.

  • Yep that would be a factor 2 fall. A lot more force would be put on the equipment in that 4 foot fall than a 20 foot fall if the last piece of protection was 40 feet above the belay. The reason is that four foot fall only has 2 feet of rope to absorb the force, where as that 20 foot fall would have 50 feet.

  • What factor was that fall in the opening of Vertical Limit. (loved that movie) (don't rune the fantasy, I'm sure real climbers think its dumb because they see the flaws in the lingo.

    Anyway when those two guys fell on their rope. Would that really hold them for that long?

    They were coming in from high up.

  • goblin072- You are correct, if a climber is 2 feet above a belay and falls 4 feet, that is a fall factor of 2, a huge amount of force. Furthermore, in this instance, there is very little rope out to absorb said force-- just 4 feet.

    Also, if the lead climber were to fall directly onto the belayer's harness, the belayer would not be able to hold the fall-- why it's important to place gear immediately above the belay and/or clip the anchor as the first piece of gear.

  • Man that sounds too complicated. I can see why Dan Osman said the heck with ropes, too much work calculating this and that. hehe. J//k

    So the ropes are a bit stretchy on purpose then.

    Guess you would need to factor in the weight of the climber the rope flexibility and maybe free fall velocity. But it sounds like a longer rope gives a gradual build up to full force vs a shorter fall w/shorter rope. Sort of like jumping on the belay.

  • @enabarbus UIAA Rating are for Factor 1.77 falls, but other than that you're completely right

  • WANKERS

  • omg.. what a mistake!!!

    if he's at the top he'd anchore himself if there's not a carabine on the chain..simply rule to avoid falls..

  • Now he just can do it for 5 times!;)

  • this guy fall on purpose ? if he did,.. that is not good for a rope :)

  • omg, he doesnt know what he's doing, he shouldn't do that, you should never talk about something you dont know about, man seriously, do some of you realize how dumb you sound? I mean half of the commentors don't even seem to know correct grammar. Wow, take a chill pill, relax and enjoy the video, if he didn't know what he was doing before, I am sure he will go find out now

  • So you think people shoudn't comment if they don't have english as their native language?

    Did you think YouTube is an all USA site?

  • @callmeJorn all canadian bitch, eh?

  • @zxcvbnmjfjf  So he's not capable to see beyong North America.. What a fascinating small world. What a fascinating narrow mind...

  • @callmeJorn youtube.com is... im pretty sure they have youtube.fr and youtube.uk and other sites for separate languages

  • @safghaddy well then you are pretty much retarded.... cause they dont and if they have its not youtube who made it, its sure some fake virus website. and dot com doesnt mean its english... im from denmark and danish sites uses dot com also...

  • @nicora60 No, he's not retarded. You tube has dropped those country designations, but you can still used it to specify language. Go to the main site and type in dot jp after the dot com. You'll get the usual homepage, but with a bar w. katakana near the top. Clik on the katakana link and much of the English will be converted to Japanese.

  • that's true, i live in Poland and i just type youtube.pl BUT it is not a different site, it's just translated, but not like the video titles, it's the whole "interface" that's translated like the search button and all that other shit...

  • @callmeJorn so usa is the only country that speaks english? lawl... telling someone off fail.

  • @callmeJorn we speak merican round here!

  • @patwrotethis , ja rozpravam v tvojom jazyku len ked mam chut...

  • @Dalamon1 dont be sorry that you dont speak merican. i just love merica and i love to speak merican

  • @callmeJorn .... Well english takes part and is mostly the main language on the site.. good thing we got google translator.

  • @callmeJorn haha 69 likes!!

  • @callmeJorn

    the US isnt the only country that speaks english

  • @DoubIeKiIl

    You missed the point, sorry. Read the whole thread.

  • @DoubIeKiIl Yeah, but they're the only clowns who expect the whole world to speak in it.

  • @Wiegieboard

    a sweeping generalization accusing others of making sweeping generalizations?

    im somewhat impressed

  • @DoubIeKiIl Behold the glory of youtube logic.

  • @Wiegieboard

    you, good sir, are right. only on youtube will you find self-defeating posts

  • @callmeJorn no, its english.

  • @imyto18 :

    Sorry, u r missing the point here. At the moment there are at least some 70 people who actually got the point. Think again.

  • @callmeJorn i am.

    english is main for youtube anyway, same as there isnt any english on youku.com is there?

    so yeah england ftw

  • @callmeJorn It should be! for us by us!

  • @callmeJorn do you think that the USA is the only country to speak English lol

  • @xMrVioletx r u stupid?

  • @callmeJorn

    AND FCUK U

  • i think more you are obvious not the right man to comment here.

  • thats not abseiling you ......

  • Well he's obviously not ready for Free Climbing.....

  • dude

  • How is it a fake? Have you never climbed before???

  • You clearly know nothing about climbing, after a couple of big falls like that you need to stop using a climbing. Please, never try and pretend to know alot about climbing, ever again.

  • fall factor ?

  • fuck...that.

  • wtf he jumped didnt he

  • that's how it looks to me

  • are you a retard?

  • is this Ceüce?

  • For anyone wondering dan osman died because when he jumped or modified bungee jump his ropes crossed and the friction from it literally melted the rope and he fell to his death, ropes are really strong and can have hard falls on them 9 or 10 times before they are considered not safe, dan osman was sponcered and probably got 30 new ropes a month, as for this yes its a long fall but its more of a jump then a fall.

  • Probably got 30 new ropes a month. You probably don't know shit. But the ropes did cross and melt. Or was it a conspiiiirraccyyyy? Spooky.

  • um except that he jumped once and left his ropes there for 3 weeks then came back to get them and decided to jump again thats when he fell... yup i don't know shit....

  • @CodyJonmusic

    he didnt just leave, he was in jail for not paying parking tickets =)

  • falling is SOOOO scary!!!

  • People arent afraid of fall, they are afraid of how will the fall look like. Thats why your first fall in certain route is the most terrifying

  • yeah ... really looks like he felt on purpose.... and he's not the first one to do such a thing.... could be kinda funny :P i did it too.... but not that high...

    it'also good to fight the fear of falling... but this guy definitly let himself fall for fun cause if he didnt plan to fall that high he just would have belayed himself with more expresses right?

  • it's after about 8-10 falls like that you're supposed to retire a rope. Not every time. They could hold a bus from a cliff, the weight of a person falling that far is barely abuse, but I'd still retire after 10 falls like that. As for the "fake" claims, it's a real fall, but he fell on purpose I can tell. Not that I can blame him, I haven't fallen more than 10 feet but that did indeed look like a rush.

  • lol now go buy a new rope

  • i lina do wyjebania

  • good luck untying that knot!

  • @awsomevertskater looool

  • i think they were being stupid and had to much slack and he stuffed up

  • was fürn fake du homo... man alter wie oft fällt man denn bitte beim klettern, sowas muss man nicht faken du alt biotonn..

  • why fake?idiot.happens all the time.