Added: 3 years ago
From: fiveightandten
Views: 62,067
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  • I found it much easier to remove the whole brake light switch by removing the entire switch bracket. all you need is a 10mm socket or wrench to remove one bolt and the whole thing comes out where its much much easier to work on. There is no room for adjustment so you can't even mess it up when putting it back in. Just look for the attachment point for the bracket which is to the left and forward of the switch. Its really a piece of cake once removed.

  • i love working on my car in the dark

  • awesome vid, i would like to add if you dont want to break the switch, pull out button, it takes a bit of muscle or prying but button actually comes out more to make room for you to pull back red collar

  • YES it is a PITA to take out... lol! I was trying to do it "nicely" without breaking anything. =) I did troubleshoot and verify it is the switch that is broken by patching a piece of wire between the two wire leads and that short circuited the link to turn the brake lights on. Two other guys and myself tried for about 30+ minutes to remove it w/o having a new part to compare to. We did figure out rotating the red piece would let the tabs come in, but working underneath all that is a PITA!!! =)

  • @fiveightandten

    That for the video it help a lot

    i just replaced my brake light switch on my E34 and yea you were right its a Bi**h to take out the old one. what i did i melted the brackets in the sides with a red hot screw driver. Went to my local bmw service place and paid $35 dollars for the part and now works perfect. 

  • Just pull bracket off!!!!!!!!

  • HELP!!!

    I have an E46 coupe - The 3rd brakelight (LED) on top is very very dull - Any advice pleeeeease??

    Thanks.

  • On my bmw the lights went one at a time and now none of them work. For the longest time, only the right side light worked(which was bad enough, should have fixed it then), but none of them work and I have to get something done. I've changed the bulbs and replaced the brake light fuse and still nothing. I'm wondering if the switch could be the problem or if its some kind of wiring issue as I'm also having a problem where the air conditioner will go on and off randomly(off most of the time).

  • @jeff30458 - Open your trunk, and look on the left hand side. There are a number of wires bundled together and clipped to the trunk hinge. That bundle flexes every time the trunk opens and closes. The wires have been known to fray and break there. Carefully cut the outer sheath open with a razor and examine the insulated wires beneath it.

    If there are frayed or broken wires, you can splice in new wire. Leaving damaged wire in there can be dangerous, as it can cause electrical fires.

  • Thanks for the upload!

  • Would that have to do with my f150 not being able to shift out of park?

  • Thanks for the tip with the screwdriver! Was in the middle of fighting with the switch and came to check Youtube and found this, had the switch out in a few mins.

  • my old switch only had 2 eletrical posts of the connector. the new one i just bought has 4. each post is labled "1" "2" "3" and "4". which do i plug into? i secruely fits in them all. that being 1 and 2, 2 and 3, and 3 and 4.

  • i replaced my own brake switch and i couldnt have done it without this video thanks for posting this

  • Yo thanks for this video. I just perform this today and man let me tell you it was a pain in the phucking ass! it took me like 45 mins to remove that damn sucker! I even try what you did 4:48 *pooh* thing I ended braking half the whole piece. but it was worth it! (BTW. its quite tricky putting it in.(that's what she said..)but got it in less than 5 mins.

    Wish I can tip you.

  • ...I should have watched this before I got mine out! I was under there for an hour and half!!

  • on mine well i change the assembly in right side but i still have the problem i press break an only the one in the middle inside the car brake light lids but not the one from the sides ?? can the brake light switch cause that wen its time to replace ,, any ideas would be great thanks ..

  • Thanks dude, you saved my goose with the suggestion to break the tabs off the old switch to remove it. Just did the replacement on my 2000 M Roadster, and it is pretty much the same.

  • OMG, you are my hero! You've got to pull the white plunger out hard, then the red locking collar will come out all the way so you can install the new switch, or else no joy.

  • @markusvt1 Thanks, this just saved me a few more minutes!

  • Awesome vid, many thanks. Much easier to follow than the Bentley manual.

  • need some info plz. I took apart the old switch out of my 95 325i. For some reason I am not able to slide the new switch into the slot! :(

  • It's so rare to get a video that covers a small task so well. There's always the little detail that's not covered and takes an extra couple of unforeseen hours to figure out. Thanks so much for taking the time and attention. Great video!

  • how did the switch go in for you me and my dad could not fit the damn switch into the whole

  • Did you disconnect the battery before you replaced the switch?

  • So when you put the switch in the bracket do u pull the red thing back before u put in or after it's in the bracket?

  • Thanks Dude

  • Great instructions. I would like to add one more thing. The new switch has the red part  that pulls out to release thetabs.. To get that all the way out to release the tabs you need to pull the middle part out as far as it goes. It will seem like it doesn't want to move followed by a bunch of clicks but it will come out further. You need to do this or the red part will not coem out enought and clear the tabs.

  • wow. Dude thank you so much! worked great! Video is clear, explained it perfectly! thank again!

  • Thank you that was really helpful apreciate

  • Perfect. Just got my replacement switch in the mail, and now I'm off to install it, this was EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thanks man.

  • I've got a 1991 volvo 240 and my brake light switch looks alot like this. the new one i have is suppose to fit but looks not like the one in my car except for the button that goes aganist the brake. any comments ya'll? I can go ahead and brake off the old one but not sure if the new one is going to work even though the dealer said its the one that will work.

  • Thanks for the video really helped just changed my brake light switch and we are now up and running.

  • Thanks for this video and for listening via PM as I wrestled with this problem. See you on the boards.

  • Great job! Thanks so much! I knew it was NOT my brake light bulbs. They still work.

    Check Control message driving me NUTS! Crazy Germans!

  • Great video... helped no end :) Only thing I would add is that if you have or can borrow a standard bar type crook lock, i clamped it onto the brake pedal and pushed it against the seat to hold the brake pedal down. Then just pulled out the red locking part of the switch and then pushed in the side tab.

    Came out without breaking it :)..

    Thanks...

  • Thanks for the great video, I got to the part where you remove it, but chickened out when it looked like I had to bust it to get it out. damn germans.

  • thanks for the vid mate took it to the dealer and he told me it would cost £140 i watched your vid and it took me £10 and 9 mins

    thank you

  • Thanks for the video. I'm in the process of changing mine on a '95 318is. That cylinder you thought was the temperature sensor for the climate control is actually the speaker for the chime that lets you know the door is open.

  • hey thanx for the vid , i've changed the light switch, but i try to start the car and it just wont start, battery's good , everything lights us( i'm a newby in bmw world, ) so please help .

  • d712k- I'm assuming the car is a manual. The clutch switch is on the same bracket as the brake light switch. If that switch isn't being actuated with the clutch pressed in, the car will not start. Check the connections on the clutch switch and make sure it's all intact, plugged in, and mounted correctly.

  • If you mean the green/black cylinder?

    It's the "TURN THE LIGHTS OFF, DUMMY" buzzer so you don't kill the battery.

  • thanks for this diy. it helped me immensely. Good Job!

  • Holy cow your directions were top notch. The dealer wanted over $200 here in Seattle. With your directions took me 30 minutes total. Thanks Anything on Angel eyes?

  • Dude, thanks for making this video. My '95 325i died on me this morning because of the brake light switch, my automatic transmission is stuck on P, and I can't change it at all, and the brake lights don't work as well. It's gotta be the brake light switch.

  • Thanks for the video was a great help and save me £££££££££££££££££.

  • Top video helped me to do this job with ease and save me ££££££££££££££££££££££

    cheers

  • if you can affoard a bmw, why can't you affoard a camera with nightvision???

  • ...and If you can afford to make un-researched generalizations about peoples' financial standing, why can't you afford a sniper rifle?

    Wait, that sentence didn't make sense did it? Well, neither did yours, so I guess we're even.

  • @fiveightandten if u disconnect the wire from the sensor and hook it up to the new one without it mounted in place it should work correct? my trunk brake light, and both tail lights do not work, the brake light circuit light is on, i just bought new tailights and replaced all the bulbs one side taillight was working before the brake light circuit light came on now none work and without the switch mounted the brake lights still do not work and the light still comes on, any suggestions?

  • @brenyboy26 an M3 at that!

  • @brenyboy26 an M3 at that!

    but very good video

  • If I need a new switch will both lights not work? In my car (97 M3 coupe) only one doesn't work, it says brake light circuit, and most of the time it works but sometimes it doesn't. If it's not working and I turn of the car and turn it on again, it starts working again, I think.

  • 1) The lights will usually work fine unless the switch is completely dead.

    2) The switch affects BOTH lights.

    Open the trunk and pull the cover off the tail light you're having problems with. Take the bulbs out and re-seat them. Make sure all the contacts are good and none of the parts of the board are broken.

    You can clean the contacts off with steel wool and use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.

  • OK. Thanks.

  • It is a bitch changing this switch, I am 230 lbs and don,t fit under so good, but great video. One thing with the 328i the car will not move if the switch is disconected, make sure you have your replacement on site.

  • The module with the green top that connects in the kick panel is the gong for the headlight warning and open door warning. Good write up

  • Thanks dude, that fixed my problem! Cheaper/easier than taking it in...

  • oh..and suddenly, I hear a chime, too! never heard it before!

  • Hey! gotta a question: I have a 95 318i convertible..I have no brake lights, replaced bulbs, checked fuses..still nothing and I didnt get any ck brake light..could replacing b.l. switch be the solution?? Thanks for any help!!!! great video!

  • Thanks for the video, I have that same problem on E36 M3 Sedan. I will get that fix. I notice you have the blacked out front grill where did you get? what is a good place to get accessories for this cars? thanks again.

  • you are amazing...thanx...and love the music in the background!!! ^_^

  • haha, thanks man

  • thank you , you help me fix my brake light , enjoyed wxtu 92.5 kenny chesney too, 5 stars

  • THANKS G JOB

  • do you know how to stop "check brake light" message everytime I turn the car on? I have the replacement switch, but I dont need it yet. Should I just replace it now, or can I use the code system to stop it?

  • Replace the switch, it's not a tough job. But that won't solve a "check brake light" error code (a bad switch will throw a "brake circuit failure" error).

    Make sure the connectors for the tail light/brake light bulbs are clean and making good contact. That's likely the source of your problem.

  • uutob- Use a test light or multimeter to check for voltage at different points down the line.

    First at the fuse (should be #46, but check on that). Brake light switch is 2nd in line. Next is the check control harness (back of the OBC). Should be a red/blue wire that comes straight from the switch. Finally, the tail light itself is last in line. If there's voltage all the way to the light. Check the ground with a continuity tester.

    Find out where the circuit is broken, and go from there.

  • Great VIdeo!, but i have a question. when i press the break my drivers side light does not come on. ive swapped bulbs and its not the bulbs, I also bought a new tailight and it still wouldnt work. would this brake light switch solve that problem?

  • Great video - thanks!

  • Great job man! Helped out alot :)

  • yo dude youre doing a good job i have that problem now more than 2 years and its geting worst, i whas getting iratetet to press on check button all the time but its not like a plate licht failed it stays on the dashboard and bling in the boardcomputer all the time (bremslicht defect blalaala) what collor is youre m3 (hellrot) keep up the good work!!!

  • that thing you called a temp sensor is actually the chime or gong, just FYI.

    Thanks for the how-to, going to post this on my e39 forum for a guy to look at, hopefully it will fix his brake light issue.

  • Ahh, it's a speaker. Thanks for clearing that up man.

  • can i disable that chime?

  • Disconnect the speaker.

  • Cool, thx. Hope, sometime, when I get one ( M3 ), it will become useful :D

  • Cool DIY tip

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