Greenspit - Valle Orco - Torino

[markus122piesuckers]

Wait so what's the deal, what are bolts used for? Why does Didier hate them?

[DadyDollaz19]

anyone know the song in this?

[MohammadX101]

unfortunately these guys don't even qualify to come anywhere near the rock that they realy should be climbing. they eventaully get tired of climbing these sand dunes and return home to watch the real climbers for excitement.

some of them may even keep up with the progress of the real climbers through their cell phones, while climbing, for the real excitement.

good work boys and girls but it takes more

[captainjackward]

@thegibsonfromhell

Actually a good stone mason can restore the rock to nearly looking perfect. Its been done before on routes where bolts have been chopped.

[antoineouistit]

so beautiful video, too bad it isn't in HD :D

[thegibsonfromhell]

I don't get it. Why does he chop the bolts? The bolts are not in the crack, so they are not in the way of his climbing or his protection.

[HosteDenis]

@thegibsonfromhell They damage the rock. Bolts are ugly. And this route can be perfectly secured without drilling bolts, because there is a crack where you can place pro in.

[thegibsonfromhell]

@HosteDenis The damage is already there. The rock is not restored when the bolts are chopped. The route can be protected without the bolts, but it can also be trad-protected while the bolts are there. Leaving the bolts in leaves the route open to both trad and sport climbers, while cutting the bolts leaves the route unusable for sport climbers, and the damage to the rock has already been made.

[HosteDenis]

@thegibsonfromhell indeed, the damage is already there. But it shouldn't be. Yes, even if removed, the damage has already been inflicted. But now you're missing the point of his chopping. Yes, the damage's already there, so there's no point as mechanically, he can't fix the rockface. The point he's making is they shouldn't be there, because there is a crack. Climbers can secure themselves with pro. He's making a statement, he's taking a stand. That's the point of his chopping.

[thegibsonfromhell]

@HosteDenis Great! Your first reply made no sense to me, but now I understand what you mean.

[HosteDenis]

@thegibsonfromhell No probs! That's just how I think and feel about it, and the reason (i think) Didier Berthod chopped. Still, I wouldn't have had a problem with you if you disagreed, it's just an opinion thing. Glad you agree though!

[thegibsonfromhell]

@HosteDenis Oh no, I don't agree. I'm just glad to understand your point of view.

[gerardo231]

@HosteDenis some people dont do trad climbing...gear is expensive and it is more dangerous. you should let everybody enjoy climbing a crack not nesecarilly climbing on trad

[GaiaMind]

@gerardo231 there is never a reason to bolt a crack that protects with gear. There are so many routes out in the world you can sport climb with only draws and a rope. It is a really beautiful thing to walk up to a wall, and not see a single sign of human impact.

[madscotsman65]

who gives a shit what the song is this guy can climb was nice to see someone who still climbs with real eqipment not just toprope like the lazzy climbers of today

[tillo83]

I love this movie. Didier is just awesome: modest, passionate, inspired and inspiring...

[JayT017]

If you bolt a crack, you're the asshole. I say chop away Didier.

[HerrHpunkt92]

very nice (: what`s the trackname?

[avcia1]

@HerrHpunkt92

DeVotchKa-How it ends : )

[bv244]

pretty funky :D

[CarbonPrey]

Leave the bolts alone arsehole. I love climbing trad also, but you have no right to chop or pull bolts unless they are unsafe. Get a grip on your self pinky.

[cjdrover]

Perhaps, but let me play Devil's Advocate and ask if the bolter had the right to install the bolts in the first place?

[CarbonPrey]

It's up to the locals if bolts go in, or come out. And from the looks of it, he ain't a local of that crag.

Did he ask the locals ? Did he research who put the bolts in, or what locals might be working on this route as a sports project ? I'm sorry, go ahead climb it trad, but unless the bolts are dangerous, or a decision made by the locals to pull them, ignore them and enjoy the climb.

[cjdrover]

I feel much the same way, but I just like to start discussion. I find bolts much more acceptable at "roadside" type crags - they really have no place in remote settings.

Bolts only when necessary, and one can always skip them!

[GMonsters]

the future will be trad climbing, no bolts, no drills, but to try to free the old artificial lines. push the limits!

[asieczk]

@GMonsters Yeah, until you hit a blank face/unprotectable slab like Tuolumne or the Gorge. Bolts have their place. There is no excuse though for bolting next to a crack.

[GaiaMind]

If you do the FA of a route, you determine the style. Even though the crack was bolted, it hadn't seen a first ascent so he had every right to chop the bolts and send it on gear for the FA.

[albertkil]

@GaiaMind i concur

[CRuJi0]

I M P R E S S I V E

[xXjamie05Xx]

any ideas on a grade?

[GMonsters]

5.14 or little more...

[MountainKing0]

@xXjamie05Xx 8b+

[uncleStone92]

@xXjamie05Xx 8b+

[DadyDollaz19]

@xXjamie05Xx like a 5.15

[Mastroberna]

Separate reality exists also il Italy!

[jc6669]

what song is this?

[GMonsters]

the title is "how it ends" by Devotchka. i think this song is perfect for this video! :)

[levelboy]

@GMonsters exactly my thought

[Videoflu]

Bella canzone! Uaaaaaah!