I've been told not to use synthetic in a rotary motor...the assembly oil your using is synthetic (Royal Purple). Could I just use the motor oil I will be using when I use the motor? I've just heard synthetic and the seals don't mix well and wear out.
@probertsonxdesign Vaseline tends to hold things in better than assembly lube since it is much more thick and sticky. No reason you couldn't use assembly lube on everything but that might make the side, corner and apex seals prone to falling out during assembly. Vaseline holds everything in place and then just melts away once the engine starts up.
Thank you so much for taking the time recording, editing and posting such an invaluable and detailed video. The Rotary community greatly appreciates this.
hallelujah arron, ive been searching high and low for a video like this,thank you very much for doing this.i have a rx8 With a blown engine and garages where trying to charge the earth to fix it.
is working on thr rx8 renesis engine as simple as shown in this video.
@mrpicoforever Yes, for the most part rebuilding the Renesis is the same as any other rotary. There are a few minor differences like the front torrington bearings, so just keep a copy of the Factory Service Manual handy and you should have no problems.
i absolutely love this video! im a gear head and have always bee since i was about 6 years old and have taken just about anything on and one thing ive reallly wanted to do and thats a rotary, before getting one i wanted to make as much research as possible and this video just about explains everything ive wanted to know. im sure im going to save this video and keep it for further reference. thank you soooo much for this!
i wanna buy a rx7 but my only fear is the apex seals. how often do i have to change them? how hard is it take to take out the engine? and is it hard to open the engine and do all this? i dont wanna screw up the engine.
@Ravag8r Rotary engines are hardly the ticking time bomb many think they are. If the car is in good shape you will never have to change the apex seals. If the engine is old and worn, you may have to. Or if a tuning error causes it to blow, then you will. Taking out the engine is fairly easy as everything in the bay is accessible. See parts 2, 3 and 4 of my Cosmo restoration for engine removal and disassembly.
@aaroncake Thanks alot! made my life easier! im definitely getting a car with a rotary! im getting a rx7 1993 with a vielside bodykit. im going to install it by myself. Hopefully i do it right!
Great videos, really informative - thanks for taking the time to make them. I've been watching them all over the last couple of days. Quick question - when you place the rotors, will they only go in correctly in one orientation (rotation-wise)? Otherwise, how do you line them up properly?
@Bort74 You can place them in any orientation, but if you have them wrong, the housing won't fit down or you don't be able to place the eccentric through the rotor and stationary gear. I typically place them as I did in the video. Front rotor tip facing down, rear rotor tip facing up. Just make sure the corners end up within the running area on the iron. You'll know when you attempt to stab the eccentric or place on a housing.
@D16y7nonvtec Yes. Rebuilding any Mazda rotary is basically the same. There are only a few minor differences in the internals year from year (early engines had coolant o-rings in the housings, later in the irons, then back to the housings for the Renesis). Front stack is a bit different as well.
@aaroncake cool, thanks man these videos of yours really help with getting a feel for the rotary. cool and one last question what are your thoughts on the atkins master kit besides the oil control rings vs the oem stuff?
@D16y7nonvtec The Atkins master kit is fine. I'd suggest using the stock oil o-rings though, since they are easier to deal with than the viton (this is an option when you purchase the kit). Also get the OEM corner seals if given the option (not sure on the Renesis kit).
"Last thing you want to do is starting wailing on it with a hammer..." *Takes out a hammer* Haha, sounded funny to me :P And thanks for the video, i am looking to get a rotary to rebuild, what was the full price of the engine rebuild?
@thebigdille A slight tap with a hammer to seat things. :-) It can be hard to get the eccentric shaft perfectly lined up sometimes. I think I have about $900 into the parts needed to rebuild this engine. Ended up not needing the bearings I bought so the real cost is about $800 + a few dollars in sealants, brake cleaner, paper towel, etc.
As I'm nursing a hangover from New Years, my beverage of choice while catching up on the vids is a coffee.... Hour-long and full of detail is sweet. Thanks again.
@socamoto I purchased them from the local fastener store. Don't know the lengths off hand because I just brought my old bolts in an asked for the same thing except in stainless. However they are all M8 x 1.25.
@Nelis1992 If you have some mechanical experience, it is generally easier to rebuild a rotary than a piston engine. Maybe the car runs just fine though, after overhauling the fuel system? All the stuff that bolts to the engine is the same as any other car. But any car that has been sitting for years outside is going to need a lot of work in addition to anything with the engine.
Tanks for the video i always wanted to see how to assembly of a rotary engine i like it very much and want to learn the hole proces i see the video a few times a day and hope to keep learning god bless you
@boltonvalleyrider The stand itself is available at most tool stores, or at places like Harbor Freight or Princess Auto. The rotary engine adapter is custom, but they are available from most of the rotary vendors or you can make your own (search rx7club for instructions).
@adam3176 Hightac is a gasket sealer, while Hylomar is a sealant. They aren't the same thing as Hightac is more like a glue. Hylomar never really dries and remains flexible. Note you don't strictly have to use Hylomar. The seals can be installed dry with just a few dabs of RTV to keep them in place, but Hylomar or an equivalent helps lessen the chance of a mistake. Also it helps seal older housings/irons that may be pitted.
@aaroncake Ok ty.. I went to napa.. they dont have Royal purple Engine asemb lube.. Whats the next best thing... i see so much i could use.. i dont want to get the Wrong thing.
@adam3176 You can use any type of engine assembly lube. In the past I've used Permatex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube. It's blood red and available at most auto parts stores. Regular old thick oil works but doesn't cling like assembly lube so it's very messy and won't stay where you put it. Amsoil also makes a lube called, oddly enough, "AMSOIL Engine Assembly Lube". If you ask over the counter for engine assembly lube they should have something.
@adam3176 Engines later than '85 have two springs. The small spring goes in first, mouth part facing the apex seal. Push it down with a pick until it's below the level of the corner piece. Then slide in the big spring, mouth facing the apex seal. It will push the small one down the rest of the way and set it into position. The big spring hooks the corner piece. When the engine is first rotated, the springs will self adjust into their final positions.
@aaroncake Cool. ty. Yea i figured. But wanted to make sure. because i saw some video of someone using ONE spring. But it sorta looked like a single peice apex seal. so i wanted to Double check
@adam3176 It's just older engines that have one spring. Also, Mazda went to 3 piece apex seals in '86, but then switched back to 2 piece in ~2004, and I think they are now back to 3 piece. 3 piece seals offer better sealing but vastly reduced life over the 2 piece design. Which is why most aftermarket seals are 2 piece.
@rayvdub Yep, this is the one. GSL-SE irons, RX-5 Cosmo housings and rotors. Also an SE front cover so I can use the newer S4 four line metering oil pump. The turbo will be a GT30R w/ 1.06 T3 housing or slightly smaller with functional aux ports controlled based on boost and RPM to maximize low and midrange while still providing decent top end. I'm not worried if the powerband starts to taper down at 5000 RPM as long as I am at full boost before 2000 RPM.
@rayvdub GSL-SE lower intake (or S4 if it fits, which I should test fairly soon, because it already has metering oil bungs), with a non-S4 NA or GSL-SE upper intake and a custom adapter to connect the upper to lower. Not going to reveal it yet since it will be shown on video when I get off this damn sheet metal and get to the FUN STUFF.
@aaroncake: oh ok thank u because i plan to buy a 1984 rx-7 with a 12A engine. Also ive heard that putting 3mm can help with durability but ive heard, dont know if this true, but that they can sratch the rotor housing. Can u tell me if this is true or not.
@Toyotamr24life 3MM seals aren't appreciably stronger than 2MM. Normally they are used these days when a set of rotors is too worn to accept 2MM seals. The grooves are bored out and 3MM used. An '84 12A will already have 3MM seals, however. Mazda used 3MM until '86.
Hey aaron i got a question. Wat is the difference between the 13B and 12A rotary engine internally besides displacement. Also which rotary has a better reliability rate the 12A or 13B? and wat can i do to upgrade my 12A rotary engine to last longer ?
@Toyotamr24life I can't answer those questions in such little space. The difference is mainly displacement and later 13Bs swapped the water o-rings to the irons. 12A rotors are directional and apex seals are shorter for the narrower rotors and housings. 12As are very reliable.
OLE OLE Y OLE xD aunque no entiendo ni la mitad de las palabras te explicas de puta madre, eres un crak, cuando termines el coche , tu coche, estaras orgulloso, muy buena tio , gente como tu pocas, un saludo desde España.
@aaroncake Non-Powdered Nitrile or Latex gloves of the correct size will fit snuggly and won't be difficult to work in. Surgeons (and myself) use them every day with great success, i'm sure an engine could also be built with them.
@kisetsushin Wouldn't such a glove be torn to shreds on the sharp edges and seals? I've always found gloves to be a gigantic pain in the butt and only wear them when absolutely necessary. A little lube just wipes right off the hands as easily as it does off of gloves. :-)
Nitrile is perfect for work like that, it has a very good tear resistance. Latex probably wouldn't be so good.
To each his own, really. I was just watching the video and noticed how messy your hands were getting, then you complained about it, so i just thought "Duh! Use gloves damnit!". I think it's worth looking into, it's much easier to just take some gloves off than cleaning your hands all the time, they're disposable, you can buy them in boxes of 100 from various vendors.
@rayvdub The old ones need to be pressed out, and the new bearings pressed in. I've made a little mandrel with some exhaust pipe in the proper diameter to press out the old bearings, and then I use the old bearing to press in the new. Any machine shop can do this for you if necessary. I didn't replace rotor and main bearings on this rebuild because they were already new with maybe 1000KM of time on them.
Amazing video man!! Very good job explaining everything and i hope it all goes well for u in the end. Now i have a really good idea on the process of rebuilding a rotary engines thanks to you man!! Great job!! :)
Grrreat video, but be careful with loctite on critical bolts because if it goes off while you are tightening it, it will give you a false torque reading leading you to believe everything is down to spec, where in reality its just the bolt locked nicely in its' thread with little or no tension. If you must use it, tighten everything down to near-spec torque and then remove one bolt, loctite it, and then immediately torque it to spec with no hesitation. Mark it and repeat for the other bolts. ;)
@SteveWrightNZ Loctite will only cure with in an anaerobic environment with metal ions present, so there isn't much chance of it "going off" until it is proper torqued down. It also takes several hours for this curing to begin, and often a full day for it to complete.
"All this stuff will come out and get lubricated properly" "All this stuff will come out and get lubricated properly" "All this stuff will come out and get lubricated properly" "All this stuff will come out and get lubricated properly"
Crank sensor gear can go either way facing up or down when i rebuilded my series 6 13B i didnt have to worry about that but im not too sure about the older 13B's..
@asj12 Well since the rotors came with the engine, I really can't count them anyway. I used the Atkins rebuild kit "C" for the '84-'85 13B with ran $950 US and has everything needed to assemble the engine (assuming all the rotors, housings and irons are good). Add about $30 for lube and sealants, plus a bunch of paper towels and brake cleaner.
@asj12 No, you'll need the kit for the year of FC you have ('86-'88, '89-'92). I think the price is about the same though. There are some fairly major gasket differences between the older 13Bs and the newer. Also older 13Bs use 3MM apex seals while newer 13Bs are 2MM.
@aaroncake Thanks aaron i found the atkins kit on ebay for sale. Thanks for the help and thank you for the great video explaining the steps and tools needed. i have an fc im purchasing in a couple of days im waiting to take it for a test drive. If i happen to need a rebuild, i have your video with help. Im familiar with piston engines but rotaries are new to me.
Fantastic job on all the videos. First I've seen covered in such detail. I'm looking at attempting to rebuild a 13B based on a series 5 RX-7 turbo engine. Was wondering which book you have that you refer to for all the engine clearances??
@andrewmonks1 In the video I looked at the Haynes manual. Should be in stock or at least available via order at you local auto parts store. Additionally the Factory Service Manual is available as a free PDF download (Google "rx7 fsm").
Wow, this is exactly what I'm looking for. I have a 13b from an FB that I'm swapping into my 85 Corolla. I'm in the process of buying another 13b that I'm going to rebuild and your videos are going to play a huge part in my build. Keep up the good work brother!
@rayvdub It will only fit one way. As you can see on the video, there is an obvious bottom and top. If placed upside down it will very quickly interfere with everything else that gets stacked on top of it.
...Are you sponsored by royal purple??? I just don't quite get it, unless you either work for royal purple or are sponsored. And I know you don't work for royal purple.... So what's up?
@Drive4Jesus Haha, no. :-) I was just making fun of those automotive TV shows that make sure to mention their sponsor's names a thousand times a minute. Though now that you mention it, Royal Purple could kick in a few dollars...
@aaroncake I hear you on that, a new set of ceramic apex seals sure would be nice, eh? I really appreciate the effort you have put into your videos, particularly this one. I had thought about making a quality set of rotary rebuild videos for youtube at one time, but of course never set aside the time for all the requisite filming and video editing. If I'm ever in your part of the continent, I'd like to shake your hand, yet since I'm from Alabama, I suppose a thank you will have to suffice, Ben
@Drive4Jesus Thank you, I'm glad you are enjoying them. Honestly, just the fact that people are watching, commenting, enjoying and learning makes me happy to produce these videos. I don't think anyone anywhere has ever covered a full restoration from start to finish with all the details and I'm hoping that these videos will go to show what it *really* takes to build a car. All the grit, swearing, grinding, long hours and fun.
@mrburkwa If the car is totally stock, it will be a 12A. The steps to rebuild a 12A are exactly the same as shown here. The only difference is that the rotors and housings are more narrow. And of course the external components will vary depending on which car the engine came from, and were it was sold.
@mazdaman28650 Yes. Only difference is that the coolant o-rings are installed on the irons, not the housings. And that the front of the eccentric shaft has an oil bypass thermostat that needs to be installed (or shimmed, or replaced by a plug). Also 2MM vs. 3MM seals but aside from that it's all the same.
@trinidad2099 You mean the socket extension? No, I didn't. There likely isn't much twist at such low torque settings so I wouldn't expect it to effect final torque much.
hey Arron (or anyone that knows) i have a couple of questions if you could please help me out , is it possible to use na housings on a turbo engine with a stock turbo? if i remember right the na housing has a water feed that goes to turbo and also has location for knock sensor right? would i be able to maybe drill these out and use them? thanks again
@Shockern003 You can use the NA housing, but you must: 1. Swap the exhaust sleeve out to that from a turbo housing; 2. If rear housing, drill out the water passage (casting is already in place); 3. Dill and tap knock sensor casting if present (sometimes they aren't). Note that you must stay within series (S4 NA for S4 turbo) because the spark plug locations change slightly for S5 and above.
@aaroncake thanks for getting back to me, i know you get alot of messages a day :D. so i cant run na s4 housings in an s5 even i if i were do do the mods? you said ignition would be off? would this mess with the ecu? what if i was to get an s4 from pulley to try and match the tdc?
@Shockern003 I'd recommend you stay with S5 housings if you have an S5. Though you could run two S4 housings if you really have to. Do not swap pulleys between S4 and S5 because that would cause the timing marks to be WAY different. You'd want to swap pulleys and hubs as an assembly. But that still wouldn't change the physical spark plug location. Though it's not a huge deal, I'd still recommend to stick within your series when swapping housings.
@redbliss It's on my fairly long list of things to do to set up a Torrent so that people can download the full quality (640 x 480) WMV file, I just have not gotten around to it yet. There are ways to save YouTube videos though, which can be found by Googling...
@Shockern003 Both rotors are the same weight, within tolerance. The coolant seals should be replaced even though the engine has only run a few miles. After some heat cycling I doubt they would take a seat and seal over the long term in a new position. Generally, a feeler gauge should be used on the side seals to meet the factory spec of 0.4 - 0.5MM. I've done a bunch so I go by feel and run a tighter clearance.
@W210krazy I have a custom engine stand adapter made of a bit of angle iron and some pipe. It bolts to the three holes on the front iron that would normally be used for the power steering and A/C bracket. You can make one yourself if you have a welder, or buy one from a number of the rotary vendors. Or, as already mentioned, a bucket works in a pinch...Some piston engine stands can also be adjusted to fit as well.
@rayvdub Yes. They have enough float and freeplay to not bind up once things are nice and hot. Tighter than the factory spec for sure. The rotors expand with heat as well.
@xxxBoboDaHoboxxx I know off by heart because I've built a bunch of engines. But if you don't have them memorized, there are charts at the front of each chapter of the Haynes manual that list all torque specs. Or, the Factory Service Manual for your year of car will list them all. Just Google "FSM RX-7" or similar and you will find the PDFs.
nice video.. you did a good job explaining how exactly to rebuild a 13b. im planning on getting an fc3s, and ill have the confidence to rebuild it when i need to because ill use this video as a referral.
@sethofmonrovia 1. Mazda has specs in the FSM for checking the free height of the spring. You put it on a flat surface, measure the height, compress, allow to spring back, measure. I generally just replace the apex seal and corner seal springs, but will often reuse the side seal springs. 2. A wire brush, parts cleaner, and effort. You could also media blast with soda if available.
@rayvdub Generally about 1/4" is the maximum allowable. I personally set my limit at about 1/8". It is mainly older housings that flake. Newer housings tend to groove. I don't like to see grooves more than 1MM. If they are deeper, it causes the apex seals to wear a very distinct point on the corner that runs against the groove.
@forrockkid I used the Atkins rebuild kit and gasket set. I purchased their "C" kit which included bearings for $950. Turned out that I didn't need the bearings since the Cosmo rotors and stationary gears were new.
great video! i've done 1 rotory rebuild but you have some tips that are nice.
but if you want to get nice close ups that are clear you could use a wide angle lense for your camera and just get the camera close. like when you showed the difference in the edge of the seals. :)
@hobotechMASTER I had intended to get closeups of apex seal spring insertion, but in the heat of the moment with sealants drying, I just kind of forgot. It's easy to get into an engine build rythm and just blast through the process. I wish I could get a wide angle lense for my camera. :-) Can you believe that I shoot everything on my Panasonic Lumix DMC-FX3 point an shoot? It records better video than most digital camcorders.
@pekkch Isn't rubber grease clay based? If so, then no way. Whatever is used has to not only hold the seals in place but also lubricate for at least a few seconds after the engine starts the first time. Vaseline holds everything nicely in place, lubricates fairly well and then melts away.
@pekkch Yes, it is petroleum jelly, the same stuff sold under the Vaseline brand. It is just used to hold the seals in place and provide a little lubrication. It melts away after a few seconds. It is important to use something to hold the seals in position while assembling the engine because otherwise, as mentioned in the video, they could come out during the build and cause damage. Vaseline is normally what is used. A tiny dab of Super Glue would also do the job.
Great video Aaron. Need to rebuild my SE engine due to coolant seal gone bad. keep going back and forth between trying it myself and having Banzai in Indy do it. Getting comfortable with the reassembly but concerned about inspecting tolerances on the old parts. '88 SE with 255k.
@slovdahl Just be careful about letting an engine sit after a coolant seal failure. Immediately coat the insides in oil via the spark plug holes or exhaust ports. Otherwise, the internals will rust and end up useless after sitting.
@aaroncake I've been going out and running it once a week or more. Still runs like a champ, which is frustrating. Only reason I'm not driving it right now is due to performing body work on it. That's taking longer than I anticipated :(
@fnckyou2 The Viton seals *do* work but can be a pain to get them in place. It would be easier to use oil than Vaseline if using Viton seals. Or, just get OEM seals and then sell the Viton ones on eBay.
I've been told not to use synthetic in a rotary motor...the assembly oil your using is synthetic (Royal Purple). Could I just use the motor oil I will be using when I use the motor? I've just heard synthetic and the seals don't mix well and wear out.
badandy713 3 hours ago
Love the videos. If I send you my 83' 12a would you do the honors?
badandy713 5 hours ago
Why use vaseline instead of assembly lube? Any advantages to it?
probertsonxdesign 1 week ago
@probertsonxdesign Vaseline tends to hold things in better than assembly lube since it is much more thick and sticky. No reason you couldn't use assembly lube on everything but that might make the side, corner and apex seals prone to falling out during assembly. Vaseline holds everything in place and then just melts away once the engine starts up.
aaroncake 1 week ago
You sir just made my life that much easier.
the86FC 1 week ago
Thank you so much for taking the time recording, editing and posting such an invaluable and detailed video. The Rotary community greatly appreciates this.
amahabir 2 weeks ago
subscribed! you're a bloody legend. cheers
mrdeathcore99 2 weeks ago
Long video buy very helpful
crenly 3 weeks ago
I loved the that's what she said comments!
Walshy044 1 month ago
Gonna go build me a rotary :)
1pocketbikespike 1 month ago
1 person thought this video was too amazing
rippedboy14 1 month ago 2
hallelujah arron, ive been searching high and low for a video like this,thank you very much for doing this.i have a rx8 With a blown engine and garages where trying to charge the earth to fix it.
is working on thr rx8 renesis engine as simple as shown in this video.
im gonna have a go when weather pics up a bit.
thanks
mrpicoforever 1 month ago
@mrpicoforever Yes, for the most part rebuilding the Renesis is the same as any other rotary. There are a few minor differences like the front torrington bearings, so just keep a copy of the Factory Service Manual handy and you should have no problems.
aaroncake 1 month ago
i absolutely love this video! im a gear head and have always bee since i was about 6 years old and have taken just about anything on and one thing ive reallly wanted to do and thats a rotary, before getting one i wanted to make as much research as possible and this video just about explains everything ive wanted to know. im sure im going to save this video and keep it for further reference. thank you soooo much for this!
vitareeal 1 month ago
Hey everyone!
i wanna buy a rx7 but my only fear is the apex seals. how often do i have to change them? how hard is it take to take out the engine? and is it hard to open the engine and do all this? i dont wanna screw up the engine.
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ravag8r 1 month ago
@Ravag8r Rotary engines are hardly the ticking time bomb many think they are. If the car is in good shape you will never have to change the apex seals. If the engine is old and worn, you may have to. Or if a tuning error causes it to blow, then you will. Taking out the engine is fairly easy as everything in the bay is accessible. See parts 2, 3 and 4 of my Cosmo restoration for engine removal and disassembly.
aaroncake 1 month ago
@aaroncake Thanks alot! made my life easier! im definitely getting a car with a rotary! im getting a rx7 1993 with a vielside bodykit. im going to install it by myself. Hopefully i do it right!
Ravag8r 1 month ago
@Ravag8r Well the FD is a different story. It *is* a ticking time bomb. It's quite likely the most unreliable car ever built.
aaroncake 3 weeks ago
Great videos, really informative - thanks for taking the time to make them. I've been watching them all over the last couple of days. Quick question - when you place the rotors, will they only go in correctly in one orientation (rotation-wise)? Otherwise, how do you line them up properly?
Bort74 1 month ago
@Bort74 You can place them in any orientation, but if you have them wrong, the housing won't fit down or you don't be able to place the eccentric through the rotor and stationary gear. I typically place them as I did in the video. Front rotor tip facing down, rear rotor tip facing up. Just make sure the corners end up within the running area on the iron. You'll know when you attempt to stab the eccentric or place on a housing.
aaroncake 1 month ago
i fucking love your sense of humor. hahahaha
paintballguy117 1 month ago
would you think the same principles apply to 13b renesis on the subject of rebuilding it?
D16y7nonvtec 2 months ago
@D16y7nonvtec Yes. Rebuilding any Mazda rotary is basically the same. There are only a few minor differences in the internals year from year (early engines had coolant o-rings in the housings, later in the irons, then back to the housings for the Renesis). Front stack is a bit different as well.
aaroncake 2 months ago
@aaroncake cool, thanks man these videos of yours really help with getting a feel for the rotary. cool and one last question what are your thoughts on the atkins master kit besides the oil control rings vs the oem stuff?
D16y7nonvtec 2 months ago
@D16y7nonvtec The Atkins master kit is fine. I'd suggest using the stock oil o-rings though, since they are easier to deal with than the viton (this is an option when you purchase the kit). Also get the OEM corner seals if given the option (not sure on the Renesis kit).
aaroncake 2 months ago
"Last thing you want to do is starting wailing on it with a hammer..." *Takes out a hammer* Haha, sounded funny to me :P And thanks for the video, i am looking to get a rotary to rebuild, what was the full price of the engine rebuild?
thebigdille 2 months ago
@thebigdille A slight tap with a hammer to seat things. :-) It can be hard to get the eccentric shaft perfectly lined up sometimes. I think I have about $900 into the parts needed to rebuild this engine. Ended up not needing the bearings I bought so the real cost is about $800 + a few dollars in sealants, brake cleaner, paper towel, etc.
aaroncake 2 months ago
Ah, I see assistant Eyegore makes an appearance at 28:12. Very nice.
davemiii 2 months ago
As I'm nursing a hangover from New Years, my beverage of choice while catching up on the vids is a coffee.... Hour-long and full of detail is sweet. Thanks again.
davemiii 2 months ago
What stainless bolts did you use for the front cover? And where from? I would like to get a set for mine :)
socamoto 2 months ago
@socamoto I purchased them from the local fastener store. Don't know the lengths off hand because I just brought my old bolts in an asked for the same thing except in stainless. However they are all M8 x 1.25.
aaroncake 2 months ago
you sir, are a true genius
its a great informative video and you really explain why and how to do stuff
and what patience!
heres a question for you
theyre is this mazda rx7 from 1990 at a local garage...
its been standing theyre (outside in the rain!!) for years and its all beat up and rusty
ive been thinking about buying it and restore it
im quite technical, but maybe a rotary engine is a bit too difficult for now?
what do you think?
Nelis1992 2 months ago
@Nelis1992 If you have some mechanical experience, it is generally easier to rebuild a rotary than a piston engine. Maybe the car runs just fine though, after overhauling the fuel system? All the stuff that bolts to the engine is the same as any other car. But any car that has been sitting for years outside is going to need a lot of work in addition to anything with the engine.
aaroncake 2 months ago
i will one day use your guidance to preform my first 13b rebuild, this video is fantastic!
Julzilla 2 months ago
A little too many lube commments lol. But the video is great and informative. Good job and Thanks much!
Sm1nts2escape 2 months ago
buzík fuck
download2864 2 months ago
great job
riimit 3 months ago
Tanks for the video i always wanted to see how to assembly of a rotary engine i like it very much and want to learn the hole proces i see the video a few times a day and hope to keep learning god bless you
polo2548 3 months ago
your a boss
DeadHand1992 3 months ago
this video inspires me to build a 13bt! thanks for the upload!
PeteRocksXp 3 months ago
"let's see the v8 guys move their engine on a stand with one hand"
I'd like to see a rotary make the torque of a v8. :) (friendly poke to fellow gearhead)
TheMOBTheory 3 months ago
where can i find an engine stand like that?
boltonvalleyrider 3 months ago
@boltonvalleyrider The stand itself is available at most tool stores, or at places like Harbor Freight or Princess Auto. The rotary engine adapter is custom, but they are available from most of the rotary vendors or you can make your own (search rx7club for instructions).
aaroncake 3 months ago
Wow very educational.thanks
zimmyb6t11 3 months ago
Wow, So im ready to Rebuild my engine... I take the Kit out and No Oil control rings.Or springs No Side seals. No Springs WTF
adam3176 4 months ago
@adam3176 Oh, that sucks. Mazda OEM kit? These parts are not part of the OEM gasket set and need to be ordered separately.
aaroncake 4 months ago
IS Hightac as good or the same as hylamar
adam3176 4 months ago
@adam3176 Hightac is a gasket sealer, while Hylomar is a sealant. They aren't the same thing as Hightac is more like a glue. Hylomar never really dries and remains flexible. Note you don't strictly have to use Hylomar. The seals can be installed dry with just a few dabs of RTV to keep them in place, but Hylomar or an equivalent helps lessen the chance of a mistake. Also it helps seal older housings/irons that may be pitted.
aaroncake 4 months ago
@aaroncake Ok ty.. I went to napa.. they dont have Royal purple Engine asemb lube.. Whats the next best thing... i see so much i could use.. i dont want to get the Wrong thing.
adam3176 4 months ago
@adam3176 You can use any type of engine assembly lube. In the past I've used Permatex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube. It's blood red and available at most auto parts stores. Regular old thick oil works but doesn't cling like assembly lube so it's very messy and won't stay where you put it. Amsoil also makes a lube called, oddly enough, "AMSOIL Engine Assembly Lube". If you ask over the counter for engine assembly lube they should have something.
aaroncake 4 months ago
@aaroncake Sweet.. TY, take care, Great vid.. thanks
adam3176 4 months ago
@adam3176 how to i install the apex springs. they have a small and big apex spring. are their two for each apex seal?
adam3176 3 months ago
@adam3176 Engines later than '85 have two springs. The small spring goes in first, mouth part facing the apex seal. Push it down with a pick until it's below the level of the corner piece. Then slide in the big spring, mouth facing the apex seal. It will push the small one down the rest of the way and set it into position. The big spring hooks the corner piece. When the engine is first rotated, the springs will self adjust into their final positions.
aaroncake 3 months ago
@aaroncake Cool. ty. Yea i figured. But wanted to make sure. because i saw some video of someone using ONE spring. But it sorta looked like a single peice apex seal. so i wanted to Double check
adam3176 3 months ago
@adam3176 It's just older engines that have one spring. Also, Mazda went to 3 piece apex seals in '86, but then switched back to 2 piece in ~2004, and I think they are now back to 3 piece. 3 piece seals offer better sealing but vastly reduced life over the 2 piece design. Which is why most aftermarket seals are 2 piece.
aaroncake 3 months ago
Is this the engine you will be putting on the cosmo?
The one you mentioned on rx7 club with functioning aux ports?
rayvdub 4 months ago
@rayvdub Yep, this is the one. GSL-SE irons, RX-5 Cosmo housings and rotors. Also an SE front cover so I can use the newer S4 four line metering oil pump. The turbo will be a GT30R w/ 1.06 T3 housing or slightly smaller with functional aux ports controlled based on boost and RPM to maximize low and midrange while still providing decent top end. I'm not worried if the powerband starts to taper down at 5000 RPM as long as I am at full boost before 2000 RPM.
aaroncake 4 months ago
@aaroncake for the aux ports, are you keeping the stock intake manfiold from the NA s4 and moding it?
or some kind of hybrid?
I just took my engine out of my car and I am considering adding a turbo
rayvdub 4 months ago
@rayvdub GSL-SE lower intake (or S4 if it fits, which I should test fairly soon, because it already has metering oil bungs), with a non-S4 NA or GSL-SE upper intake and a custom adapter to connect the upper to lower. Not going to reveal it yet since it will be shown on video when I get off this damn sheet metal and get to the FUN STUFF.
aaroncake 4 months ago
Haha I ment north America =p
ZeroRX7r1 4 months ago
Aaron you rule man your one the all time rotary gods here in states ^_^ thanks for the amazing video
ZeroRX7r1 4 months ago
@aaroncake: oh ok thank u because i plan to buy a 1984 rx-7 with a 12A engine. Also ive heard that putting 3mm can help with durability but ive heard, dont know if this true, but that they can sratch the rotor housing. Can u tell me if this is true or not.
Toyotamr24life 4 months ago
@Toyotamr24life 3MM seals aren't appreciably stronger than 2MM. Normally they are used these days when a set of rotors is too worn to accept 2MM seals. The grooves are bored out and 3MM used. An '84 12A will already have 3MM seals, however. Mazda used 3MM until '86.
aaroncake 4 months ago
Hey aaron i got a question. Wat is the difference between the 13B and 12A rotary engine internally besides displacement. Also which rotary has a better reliability rate the 12A or 13B? and wat can i do to upgrade my 12A rotary engine to last longer ?
Toyotamr24life 4 months ago
@Toyotamr24life I can't answer those questions in such little space. The difference is mainly displacement and later 13Bs swapped the water o-rings to the irons. 12A rotors are directional and apex seals are shorter for the narrower rotors and housings. 12As are very reliable.
aaroncake 4 months ago
saw only twenty minutes but i will come back and finish the rest thank you for the info
mazdafc1 4 months ago
thanks for the lesson aaron
kent9286 4 months ago
OLE OLE Y OLE xD aunque no entiendo ni la mitad de las palabras te explicas de puta madre, eres un crak, cuando termines el coche , tu coche, estaras orgulloso, muy buena tio , gente como tu pocas, un saludo desde España.
EMILIOCE57 4 months ago
"Like most enjoyable things in life, it takes at least a half a tub of vaseline to complete this task." Nasty mother fucker. ;o
Instant subscribe.
NaomiChanX 6 months ago
I feelem though its hard to work with gloves when your manipulating small parts like apex seal springs
EPTRotorsports 6 months ago
GLOVES!!!!
kisetsushin 6 months ago
@kisetsushin It would be very difficult to manipulate the small seals and spring while wearing gloves.
aaroncake 6 months ago
@aaroncake Non-Powdered Nitrile or Latex gloves of the correct size will fit snuggly and won't be difficult to work in. Surgeons (and myself) use them every day with great success, i'm sure an engine could also be built with them.
kisetsushin 6 months ago
@kisetsushin Wouldn't such a glove be torn to shreds on the sharp edges and seals? I've always found gloves to be a gigantic pain in the butt and only wear them when absolutely necessary. A little lube just wipes right off the hands as easily as it does off of gloves. :-)
aaroncake 6 months ago
Nitrile is perfect for work like that, it has a very good tear resistance. Latex probably wouldn't be so good.
To each his own, really. I was just watching the video and noticed how messy your hands were getting, then you complained about it, so i just thought "Duh! Use gloves damnit!". I think it's worth looking into, it's much easier to just take some gloves off than cleaning your hands all the time, they're disposable, you can buy them in boxes of 100 from various vendors.
kisetsushin 6 months ago
@aaroncake What about the rotor bearings. How can one install those?
rayvdub 5 months ago
@rayvdub The old ones need to be pressed out, and the new bearings pressed in. I've made a little mandrel with some exhaust pipe in the proper diameter to press out the old bearings, and then I use the old bearing to press in the new. Any machine shop can do this for you if necessary. I didn't replace rotor and main bearings on this rebuild because they were already new with maybe 1000KM of time on them.
aaroncake 5 months ago
Plus, when you say "small", it means "huge" to me and my line of work.
kisetsushin 6 months ago
Thank you so much for taking the time to post these videos of yours. Seriously.
daitantamashii 6 months ago
No Hello Kitty scent vaseline? You make me want to rebuild my blown 13BT!
office888 6 months ago
@office888 What exactly would Hello Kitty smell like? 9 year old girls? Yikes!
aaroncake 6 months ago
Amazing video man!! Very good job explaining everything and i hope it all goes well for u in the end. Now i have a really good idea on the process of rebuilding a rotary engines thanks to you man!! Great job!! :)
wethepeople0001 6 months ago
Grrreat video, but be careful with loctite on critical bolts because if it goes off while you are tightening it, it will give you a false torque reading leading you to believe everything is down to spec, where in reality its just the bolt locked nicely in its' thread with little or no tension. If you must use it, tighten everything down to near-spec torque and then remove one bolt, loctite it, and then immediately torque it to spec with no hesitation. Mark it and repeat for the other bolts. ;)
SteveWrightNZ 7 months ago
@SteveWrightNZ Loctite will only cure with in an anaerobic environment with metal ions present, so there isn't much chance of it "going off" until it is proper torqued down. It also takes several hours for this curing to begin, and often a full day for it to complete.
aaroncake 7 months ago
"All this stuff will come out and get lubricated properly" "All this stuff will come out and get lubricated properly" "All this stuff will come out and get lubricated properly" "All this stuff will come out and get lubricated properly"
WE GET IT.
finalman82 7 months ago
@finalman82 It's REALLY easy to forget.
needleonthevinyl 7 months ago
@finalman82 One can never understate the importance of a proper lub-ing.
aaroncake 7 months ago 6
And now a crap ton of vasaline is applied...HAAHAHAH ))))))))
peugeot405rus 7 months ago
Crank sensor gear can go either way facing up or down when i rebuilded my series 6 13B i didnt have to worry about that but im not too sure about the older 13B's..
KPAracing 7 months ago
@KPAracing S6 13Bs don't use a CAS, as I'm sure you know. They have an external reluctor ring on the main eccentric pulley.
aaroncake 7 months ago
@aaroncake I meant the distributor drive. Sorry about that buddy.
KPAracing 7 months ago
thank you so much for taking time out to make this video. Thanks to you i have a good idea of whats involved when rebuilding a wankel !
YoshiiKid 7 months ago
hey aaron about how much did it cost to get all the other parts in total minus the rotors?
asj12 7 months ago
@asj12 Well since the rotors came with the engine, I really can't count them anyway. I used the Atkins rebuild kit "C" for the '84-'85 13B with ran $950 US and has everything needed to assemble the engine (assuming all the rotors, housings and irons are good). Add about $30 for lube and sealants, plus a bunch of paper towels and brake cleaner.
aaroncake 7 months ago
@aaroncake so that 84-85 kit is also able to be used in the 13b in the fc's right?
asj12 7 months ago
@asj12 No, you'll need the kit for the year of FC you have ('86-'88, '89-'92). I think the price is about the same though. There are some fairly major gasket differences between the older 13Bs and the newer. Also older 13Bs use 3MM apex seals while newer 13Bs are 2MM.
aaroncake 7 months ago
@aaroncake Thanks aaron i found the atkins kit on ebay for sale. Thanks for the help and thank you for the great video explaining the steps and tools needed. i have an fc im purchasing in a couple of days im waiting to take it for a test drive. If i happen to need a rebuild, i have your video with help. Im familiar with piston engines but rotaries are new to me.
asj12 7 months ago
Great job!!!
fastguytim 7 months ago
Very nice man, thanx for the video. After watching this and seeing how simple it is, I believe ill give it a try on rebuilding mine. Thanx again man.
HitokiriRaiden 7 months ago
Fantastic job on all the videos. First I've seen covered in such detail. I'm looking at attempting to rebuild a 13B based on a series 5 RX-7 turbo engine. Was wondering which book you have that you refer to for all the engine clearances??
andrewmonks1 7 months ago
@andrewmonks1 In the video I looked at the Haynes manual. Should be in stock or at least available via order at you local auto parts store. Additionally the Factory Service Manual is available as a free PDF download (Google "rx7 fsm").
aaroncake 7 months ago
@aaroncake thanks man...... :D
andrewmonks1 7 months ago
Wow, this is exactly what I'm looking for. I have a 13b from an FB that I'm swapping into my 85 Corolla. I'm in the process of buying another 13b that I'm going to rebuild and your videos are going to play a huge part in my build. Keep up the good work brother!
MrIpleadthefizif 7 months ago
one more thing, how do I know in which direction the counterweight goes?
rayvdub 7 months ago
@rayvdub It will only fit one way. As you can see on the video, there is an obvious bottom and top. If placed upside down it will very quickly interfere with everything else that gets stacked on top of it.
aaroncake 7 months ago
what grit # are you using on that dremel?
rayvdub 7 months ago
@rayvdub I don't know exactly. It's one of the bits that came with a Dremel kit years ago. If I had to guess I'd say it is about 300 grit.
aaroncake 7 months ago
...Are you sponsored by royal purple??? I just don't quite get it, unless you either work for royal purple or are sponsored. And I know you don't work for royal purple.... So what's up?
Drive4Jesus 8 months ago
@Drive4Jesus Haha, no. :-) I was just making fun of those automotive TV shows that make sure to mention their sponsor's names a thousand times a minute. Though now that you mention it, Royal Purple could kick in a few dollars...
aaroncake 8 months ago
@aaroncake I hear you on that, a new set of ceramic apex seals sure would be nice, eh? I really appreciate the effort you have put into your videos, particularly this one. I had thought about making a quality set of rotary rebuild videos for youtube at one time, but of course never set aside the time for all the requisite filming and video editing. If I'm ever in your part of the continent, I'd like to shake your hand, yet since I'm from Alabama, I suppose a thank you will have to suffice, Ben
Drive4Jesus 8 months ago
@Drive4Jesus Thank you, I'm glad you are enjoying them. Honestly, just the fact that people are watching, commenting, enjoying and learning makes me happy to produce these videos. I don't think anyone anywhere has ever covered a full restoration from start to finish with all the details and I'm hoping that these videos will go to show what it *really* takes to build a car. All the grit, swearing, grinding, long hours and fun.
aaroncake 8 months ago
Do you know what type of engine is in a 1985 carburated RX-7?
mrburkwa 8 months ago
@mrburkwa If the car is totally stock, it will be a 12A. The steps to rebuild a 12A are exactly the same as shown here. The only difference is that the rotors and housings are more narrow. And of course the external components will vary depending on which car the engine came from, and were it was sold.
aaroncake 8 months ago
is the process the same for the 88 13b engines?
mazdaman28650 9 months ago
@mazdaman28650 Yes. Only difference is that the coolant o-rings are installed on the irons, not the housings. And that the front of the eccentric shaft has an oil bypass thermostat that needs to be installed (or shimmed, or replaced by a plug). Also 2MM vs. 3MM seals but aside from that it's all the same.
aaroncake 9 months ago
awesome
ikazuah 9 months ago
Not to nitpick, but when you torque the housing bolts, are you taking into account the extension length?
trinidad2099 9 months ago
@trinidad2099 You mean the socket extension? No, I didn't. There likely isn't much twist at such low torque settings so I wouldn't expect it to effect final torque much.
aaroncake 9 months ago
hey Arron (or anyone that knows) i have a couple of questions if you could please help me out , is it possible to use na housings on a turbo engine with a stock turbo? if i remember right the na housing has a water feed that goes to turbo and also has location for knock sensor right? would i be able to maybe drill these out and use them? thanks again
Shockern003 9 months ago
@Shockern003 You can use the NA housing, but you must: 1. Swap the exhaust sleeve out to that from a turbo housing; 2. If rear housing, drill out the water passage (casting is already in place); 3. Dill and tap knock sensor casting if present (sometimes they aren't). Note that you must stay within series (S4 NA for S4 turbo) because the spark plug locations change slightly for S5 and above.
aaroncake 9 months ago
@aaroncake thanks for getting back to me, i know you get alot of messages a day :D. so i cant run na s4 housings in an s5 even i if i were do do the mods? you said ignition would be off? would this mess with the ecu? what if i was to get an s4 from pulley to try and match the tdc?
thanks
shocker
Shockern003 9 months ago
@Shockern003 I'd recommend you stay with S5 housings if you have an S5. Though you could run two S4 housings if you really have to. Do not swap pulleys between S4 and S5 because that would cause the timing marks to be WAY different. You'd want to swap pulleys and hubs as an assembly. But that still wouldn't change the physical spark plug location. Though it's not a huge deal, I'd still recommend to stick within your series when swapping housings.
aaroncake 9 months ago
@aaroncake after doing some research the s4 turbo and s5 turbo have the spark plugs in the same location. its the s4 na that has different location.
Shockern003 9 months ago
@Shockern003 Ah, good to know.
aaroncake 9 months ago
awesome video! aaron, any chance you could upload this video onto rapidshare or something so i can download it to my computer for future reference?
redbliss 9 months ago
@redbliss It's on my fairly long list of things to do to set up a Torrent so that people can download the full quality (640 x 480) WMV file, I just have not gotten around to it yet. There are ways to save YouTube videos though, which can be found by Googling...
aaroncake 9 months ago
couple comments questions,
rear rotor is slightly heavier right?
and i just rebuilt a 13b that will need to be disassembled, should coolant seals be replaced? it has 50 miles on it.
also on clearance of side seal to corner seal you can use a feeler gauge, looks like you just did it by feel?
Shockern003 9 months ago
@Shockern003 Both rotors are the same weight, within tolerance. The coolant seals should be replaced even though the engine has only run a few miles. After some heat cycling I doubt they would take a seat and seal over the long term in a new position. Generally, a feeler gauge should be used on the side seals to meet the factory spec of 0.4 - 0.5MM. I've done a bunch so I go by feel and run a tighter clearance.
aaroncake 9 months ago
Question? What did you use for the engine stand to hold the motor while building it?
W210krazy 9 months ago
@W210krazy you can use the poor man stand, a bucket :D
Shockern003 9 months ago
@W210krazy I have a custom engine stand adapter made of a bit of angle iron and some pipe. It bolts to the three holes on the front iron that would normally be used for the power steering and A/C bracket. You can make one yourself if you have a welder, or buy one from a number of the rotary vendors. Or, as already mentioned, a bucket works in a pinch...Some piston engine stands can also be adjusted to fit as well.
aaroncake 9 months ago
Aarron, I am wondering if you took in consideration, heat expansion when grinding down those seals?
rayvdub 10 months ago
@rayvdub Yes. They have enough float and freeplay to not bind up once things are nice and hot. Tighter than the factory spec for sure. The rotors expand with heat as well.
aaroncake 10 months ago
how do you know witch each bold number is witch and how many tork pounds each one gets
xxxBoboDaHoboxxx 10 months ago
@xxxBoboDaHoboxxx I know off by heart because I've built a bunch of engines. But if you don't have them memorized, there are charts at the front of each chapter of the Haynes manual that list all torque specs. Or, the Factory Service Manual for your year of car will list them all. Just Google "FSM RX-7" or similar and you will find the PDFs.
aaroncake 10 months ago
nice video.. you did a good job explaining how exactly to rebuild a 13b. im planning on getting an fc3s, and ill have the confidence to rebuild it when i need to because ill use this video as a referral.
TeginProgress 10 months ago
Awesome video! I'm enjoying following your progress. I had a couple questions.
1. How do I tell if the springs are reusable?
2. How do I clean out the coolant passages?
sethofmonrovia 10 months ago
@sethofmonrovia 1. Mazda has specs in the FSM for checking the free height of the spring. You put it on a flat surface, measure the height, compress, allow to spring back, measure. I generally just replace the apex seal and corner seal springs, but will often reuse the side seal springs. 2. A wire brush, parts cleaner, and effort. You could also media blast with soda if available.
aaroncake 10 months ago
How much crome flaking, is acceptable for a housing??
rayvdub 10 months ago
@rayvdub Generally about 1/4" is the maximum allowable. I personally set my limit at about 1/8". It is mainly older housings that flake. Newer housings tend to groove. I don't like to see grooves more than 1MM. If they are deeper, it causes the apex seals to wear a very distinct point on the corner that runs against the groove.
aaroncake 10 months ago
thank you sir. plan on watching this many times.
elmerxfudd 11 months ago
thank you sir. plan on watching this many times.
elmerxfudd 11 months ago
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22ness0hayden 11 months ago
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22ness0hayden 11 months ago
where did you get your rebuild kit from and how much great video
forrockkid 11 months ago
@forrockkid I used the Atkins rebuild kit and gasket set. I purchased their "C" kit which included bearings for $950. Turned out that I didn't need the bearings since the Cosmo rotors and stationary gears were new.
aaroncake 11 months ago
great video! i've done 1 rotory rebuild but you have some tips that are nice.
but if you want to get nice close ups that are clear you could use a wide angle lense for your camera and just get the camera close. like when you showed the difference in the edge of the seals. :)
hobotechMASTER 11 months ago
@hobotechMASTER I had intended to get closeups of apex seal spring insertion, but in the heat of the moment with sealants drying, I just kind of forgot. It's easy to get into an engine build rythm and just blast through the process. I wish I could get a wide angle lense for my camera. :-) Can you believe that I shoot everything on my Panasonic Lumix DMC-FX3 point an shoot? It records better video than most digital camcorders.
aaroncake 11 months ago
Following your project you rotary guru. Plus lube jokes never get old
Moksha378 11 months ago
great video you are a teacher aaron
rx7walkel 11 months ago
Hilarious comments, but a cool video nonetheless.
hombre3000 11 months ago
holy mother of the rotary planet.. your a rotary god.. perfect video.. thanx fot the MOViE (not video.. a movie).. :D!
asimoVT 11 months ago
Thanks for the video! Is help so much...
Can rubber grease replace the vaseline??
pekkch 11 months ago
@pekkch Isn't rubber grease clay based? If so, then no way. Whatever is used has to not only hold the seals in place but also lubricate for at least a few seconds after the engine starts the first time. Vaseline holds everything nicely in place, lubricates fairly well and then melts away.
aaroncake 11 months ago
@aaroncake The vaseline you used is for human skin, is a kind of petroleum jelly right?
Really suitable for engine? Can totally burn and wont cause any side effect?
pekkch 11 months ago
@pekkch Yes, it is petroleum jelly, the same stuff sold under the Vaseline brand. It is just used to hold the seals in place and provide a little lubrication. It melts away after a few seconds. It is important to use something to hold the seals in position while assembling the engine because otherwise, as mentioned in the video, they could come out during the build and cause damage. Vaseline is normally what is used. A tiny dab of Super Glue would also do the job.
aaroncake 11 months ago
great vid, favorited in-case i need it in the future :p
supracrazy247 11 months ago
Great video! By far the best I've seen with important details that most other builders' videos don't add.
Thanks Aaron!
kz6fittycent 11 months ago
Great video Aaron. Need to rebuild my SE engine due to coolant seal gone bad. keep going back and forth between trying it myself and having Banzai in Indy do it. Getting comfortable with the reassembly but concerned about inspecting tolerances on the old parts. '88 SE with 255k.
slovdahl 11 months ago
@slovdahl Just be careful about letting an engine sit after a coolant seal failure. Immediately coat the insides in oil via the spark plug holes or exhaust ports. Otherwise, the internals will rust and end up useless after sitting.
aaroncake 11 months ago
@aaroncake I've been going out and running it once a week or more. Still runs like a champ, which is frustrating. Only reason I'm not driving it right now is due to performing body work on it. That's taking longer than I anticipated :(
slovdahl 11 months ago
another awesome vid..
808STGARAGE 11 months ago
Endplay clearance is 0.0016-0.0028in. (16 ten-thousandths)
You stated "0.016-0.028in." (16 thousandths)
I'm sure just a slip but for anyone using this solely to build a motor.
jrgeiler 11 months ago
@jrgeiler Oops...I'll add an annotation to the video.
aaroncake 11 months ago
super Job
doc995324 11 months ago
I hate seals now -_-
I am now going to regret my future rebuild
fnckyou2 11 months ago
@fnckyou2 The Viton seals *do* work but can be a pain to get them in place. It would be easier to use oil than Vaseline if using Viton seals. Or, just get OEM seals and then sell the Viton ones on eBay.
aaroncake 11 months ago
Okay this is out standing. Looked at all of them. Great work
doc995324 11 months ago
THANK YOU,THANK YOU ,THANK YOU !!
sgoldens24 1 year ago