Everything I have ever read about fingerboards says that deadhangs must *not* be done on straight arms. They should be slightly bent, ie. your elbows must point forwards, not sideways. Otherwise, you're asking for tendon trouble.
this "enthusiastic" instructor forgot to mention that you should have your arms slightly bent, this wil engage your muscles and actually strengthen your forearms, and best of all it WON"T kill your shoulders like the hangs his wife did will.
this "enthusiastic" instructor forgot to mention that you should have your arms slightly bent, this wil engage your muscles and actually strengthen your forearms, and best of all it WON"T kill your shoulders like the hangs his wife did will.
@mitsullu yea just buy like a bag of 25 or 50 cheap hold off ebay so you can get a nice variety of holds and some good plywood and put it on your wall above the door frame and try different hold
@HeppNaChris well mate, the one he is showing, is an okay one, but if your doing this for climbing in specific, you should go for the moon board (around 50 euro i think) this is the best erginomically designed board for climbers in mind.. it also has a whole training method that ben moon uses for best results on the board on the website :)
Totally! I've only ever seen 1 video set that did any good and had someone who actually knew what they were talking about. The rest of these videos are just plain wrong, or contain useful tips but don't actually teach you anything. They just show you how THEY do it.
Not all of their videos are bad I use some of their grip advice and it works for me..but really rock climbers should do whatever is most comfortable for them, for example I dont like using my hands on a sloped grip so I put my arm over the top of it and use my own arm as a pull up bar, just small things like that are different in rock climbers.
@0buru0 Dead hangs, while popular in the climbing community, are generally considered to be injurious to elbows and shoulders. These two give out information that seems either obvious, or just slightly wrong, such as their use of the campus ladder in another video. You can use equipment however you like, don't get me wrong, but if you're creating content to teach newcomers, teach them the proper way to use it, and let them decide if they want to just play around on it, instead.
@Syst3m04 What makes you say that? As an avid climber I would have to say all their video's that i've seen are very informative and helpful, especially to someone who might be new to climbing.
the joint of my left middle finger hurts and swells up after each climb. i think its chronic inflammation but im not sure how i got that. does anyone have remedies or advice to prevent the swelling? i can't bend it fully.
oh and how does taping your fingers help? won't the same amount of stress be on those fingers compared to not taping them?
Strengthening with crimps is not the best method. Working with open hands on those crimp holds is far more desirable. Reason being, the muscles used for crimps are also used in open hand, but not the other way around. So strengthening open hand will simultaneously strengthen crimps, while being far safer for your tendons.
Doing crimps like she showed on a finger board is how people get injured. On a finger board you shouldnt have a locked of a joint between the top and middle section of your fingers.
Everything I have ever read about fingerboards says that deadhangs must *not* be done on straight arms. They should be slightly bent, ie. your elbows must point forwards, not sideways. Otherwise, you're asking for tendon trouble.
AMiGR667 5 months ago 3
girl is so hot wheres this place
fluffy5739 6 months ago
Rock rings are easier on your tendons and joints are easier to hang and cost less.
WorldClimb 7 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
this "enthusiastic" instructor forgot to mention that you should have your arms slightly bent, this wil engage your muscles and actually strengthen your forearms, and best of all it WON"T kill your shoulders like the hangs his wife did will.
dallorenz21 7 months ago in playlist Climbing HowTo - ExpertVillage
this "enthusiastic" instructor forgot to mention that you should have your arms slightly bent, this wil engage your muscles and actually strengthen your forearms, and best of all it WON"T kill your shoulders like the hangs his wife did will.
dallorenz21 7 months ago in playlist Climbing HowTo - ExpertVillage
@dallorenz21 i dont think thats his wie if it is hes a lucky guy loool
iamiSniipezxX 5 months ago
this expertvillage stuff is crap
stboost 7 months ago
wonders (like with chin up bars) how many home improvement noobs have mounted one of these to drywall and fallen on their a--s
nopainogain 8 months ago 2
WTF 138.621 Videos?????
Blitzell22 8 months ago
is there someone who tried to make such a board?
mitsullu 9 months ago
@mitsullu I have one in my room...
THEBIRDMAN9412 9 months ago
@mitsullu yea just buy like a bag of 25 or 50 cheap hold off ebay so you can get a nice variety of holds and some good plywood and put it on your wall above the door frame and try different hold
xgk3000 6 months ago
where can i buy a hanging board
RaulStal 11 months ago
@RaulStal you can buy it on the internet
BlizzlakeWoW 10 months ago
dagg
daviewavie112 1 year ago
anyone recommened this training board ????
Magyar126 1 year ago
After seeing comments about how nice Caitlin's posterior is, I find it hard to concentrate on the techniques. Thanks for nothing guys.
RobTiser 1 year ago
0:46 nice ass
pookie748 1 year ago 2
lol
bluedog2296 1 year ago
Ninja warrior training
BoredChemist 1 year ago
i dont understant why you put all these words to cover the video. Am i supposed to read or watch this vid?? duhh?
alfienh 1 year ago
vertical ventures in tampa. i see you over there
dormiturefl 1 year ago
how much should i pay for (a "good" ) one? found some for 55euro, but also for 600euro
HeppNaChris 1 year ago
@HeppNaChris around 100 euro should be fine,go for the metolious big model,cant remember the name,costs aroun 80 to 110
akalestos1983 1 year ago
@HeppNaChris metolius simulator !!!!
akalestos1983 1 year ago
@HeppNaChris well mate, the one he is showing, is an okay one, but if your doing this for climbing in specific, you should go for the moon board (around 50 euro i think) this is the best erginomically designed board for climbers in mind.. it also has a whole training method that ben moon uses for best results on the board on the website :)
clarkey1009484 1 year ago
@clarkey1009484 thank you =)
HeppNaChris 1 year ago
@HeppNaChris No problem, happy to help. :)
clarkey1009484 1 year ago
if she wasn't on there, I don't think anyone would watch them
genepierson 1 year ago
The guy is a real strong climber, but yeah his videos arent that great.
Lifeisafruit 1 year ago
tired of adds 0:00 this should help
skinnyman1423 1 year ago
i bet she could give a killer handjob xD
MrKenpachi1080 1 year ago
@MrKenpachi1080 rock climb girls and habdy's are no bueno. think of the calluses that have developed lol
garrettisbetterthanU 1 year ago
expertvillage is bullshit
pint047 1 year ago
nice tight booty
albertstroke 1 year ago
the very first good video of this channel.
wow
Andythefunkman 2 years ago
You speak but the woman works xD
FUERZAyHONOR 2 years ago 6
This comment has received too many negative votes show
die
bgebz 2 years ago
I made one out of paper mache and the Fucking thing ripped apart!!!
Taurus8763 2 years ago 22
Anyone else think these expertvillage guys do more harm than good?
Syst3m04 2 years ago 172
Totally! I've only ever seen 1 video set that did any good and had someone who actually knew what they were talking about. The rest of these videos are just plain wrong, or contain useful tips but don't actually teach you anything. They just show you how THEY do it.
77rubysoho 2 years ago 3
YES!
altairisme 2 years ago
Not all of their videos are bad I use some of their grip advice and it works for me..but really rock climbers should do whatever is most comfortable for them, for example I dont like using my hands on a sloped grip so I put my arm over the top of it and use my own arm as a pull up bar, just small things like that are different in rock climbers.
GreaterMoron 2 years ago
here here. you should be able to climb before you try to teach.
BewareOfOranges 2 years ago
whats wrong with this vid?
simon2133 2 years ago
@Syst3m04 Can I ask you why you're saying that? I'm finding these videos quite interesting, am I missing something?
0buru0 1 year ago
@0buru0 Dead hangs, while popular in the climbing community, are generally considered to be injurious to elbows and shoulders. These two give out information that seems either obvious, or just slightly wrong, such as their use of the campus ladder in another video. You can use equipment however you like, don't get me wrong, but if you're creating content to teach newcomers, teach them the proper way to use it, and let them decide if they want to just play around on it, instead.
samurphy 1 year ago
@0buru0 they teach harmful techinques
dreamorigami 1 year ago
@Syst3m04 kinda just states the obvious: This is a hold...hold it. Now move.
pppaulo1 1 year ago
@Syst3m04 They haven't relay got any Idea what they are doing
N3rd133t 1 year ago
@Syst3m04 how so?
develupa 1 year ago
@Syst3m04 What makes you say that? As an avid climber I would have to say all their video's that i've seen are very informative and helpful, especially to someone who might be new to climbing.
lilbrowntank 8 months ago
@Syst3m04 I dont know much about them but how do you mean?
DarkSifu 8 months ago
nice ass!
nico8080 2 years ago 110
@nico8080 dont u know its a fact that all rock climber girls have nice butts...bra come on
thelawnguys93 1 month ago
climbers tape is also used on flappers (get lots of flappers on slate ^_^)
gregarioushand 2 years ago
That Kate chick is soo hot!!
skolewarrior10 3 years ago 7
their married.
naterd00d 2 years ago
what hang board was she using? i need one that has a good slope area to hang from an practice on.
psycho571 3 years ago
Good Luck finding one of these dude - it is circa 1996/1997 - don't understand this video, she has her feet on the floor for most it
routeflasher 3 years ago 2
Another half-assed, misleading expertvillage video. Awesome.
utahphunk 3 years ago 4
You mean the hang board?!
cride1 3 years ago 7
the joint of my left middle finger hurts and swells up after each climb. i think its chronic inflammation but im not sure how i got that. does anyone have remedies or advice to prevent the swelling? i can't bend it fully.
oh and how does taping your fingers help? won't the same amount of stress be on those fingers compared to not taping them?
DrummerFW 3 years ago
Taping is used to cover gashes/blisters before or after they are created to reduce pain generally.
jackruns12 3 years ago
First of all, as with an injury, always go to a physiotherapist for advice.
However, there are some basic things that are quite important and that have helped me lots :)
- RICE - Rest Ice Compression Elevation - for any injury for 48 hours after injury, and warmth thereafter.
Perhaps the most important being REST. You may have damaged a tendon and they take ages to heal.
But like I said, see a physio
qix1t 2 years ago
if ur not doin it already make sure ur warming up properly and start off easy, gradually workin up to harder climbing.
BewareOfOranges 2 years ago 2
Strengthening with crimps is not the best method. Working with open hands on those crimp holds is far more desirable. Reason being, the muscles used for crimps are also used in open hand, but not the other way around. So strengthening open hand will simultaneously strengthen crimps, while being far safer for your tendons.
lightthatblinds 3 years ago 2
whats open hand?
thelosthikers 3 years ago
when your hand is open.
naterd00d 2 years ago
i dont know why i asked that...
thelosthikers 2 years ago
Doing crimps like she showed on a finger board is how people get injured. On a finger board you shouldnt have a locked of a joint between the top and middle section of your fingers.
thetree21220 3 years ago 3
i have difficult one, too difficult fot me :(
CordBB 3 years ago
im going to get one right now!
philytheking 3 years ago
this would throw off the climbing aspect but i would buy it for 10 dollars maybe just to do pullups
mateo10futbol 3 years ago
Does she come with the board?
clone1whitney 3 years ago 8
awesome ... i think i'll buy one
yvesasok 4 years ago