First time I fell from lead climbing, I nearly crapped myself! The drop was only three feet... Reguardless, a drop is a drop, and they are all scary; especially this one! Kudos to you man, and the girl who was your belay.
For all the haters and wannabes. Rope didn't have any slack at all. When Didier fell rope started to get slack (first few frames on 1:18) and the girl tried to shorten the rope. IMO everything was clear. I would rather be belayed buy 50kg girl than a 90kg strong-as-a-ox-slam-me-to-the-rock guy. And I don't know why people have a need to comment about thing of which they don't have even a basic knowledge. Watch the whole movie.
He actually took that fall loads of times, madness, shame he didn't manage the first ascent in the end, but, Sonnie did, so congrats to him, great work.
I'm amazed at what you all are doing. I could never do anything like that. I just don't have it in me. I am absolutely blown away by this. I can't fu#$in believe you are doing this!
@mushidushi I think they were just trying to motivate him.....Had it been a solo, I'd agree with you because his life is on the line....but as it stands here, it just seems like motivation wasn't the worse thing.....
Woow 85 likes for a crap bit of information .. she had about 3 foot of slack .. his fall / speed / pound of preasure from the distance of fall im supprised they both didnt end up with seriouse injuries.. That girl belaying should of deffinatly be tied in , with a dynamic rope id rather have a bit of strain than flying up on the ait uncontrolably , poor belaying , poor safety , great climb though
lucky the incline of the rock face allowed him that distance to fall without breaking off solid rock a few times and also lucky he just happened to fall while in that feet down position facing towards the rock face and not when he was twisting or upside down, ah look if everyone had sense the hospitals would be half empty, and we'd have to clips to laugh or get horrified at, I would have enjoyed if the rope was accidentally wrapped around her foot.. woohooooo!! so long bitch!
Hey I'm a climber... That wasn't just a dynamic belay. That was a belayer that was not tied in. Very stupid. She was lighter than him as well. She should have been tied in with a little slack on the runner, not standing there with ten feet of slack in the rope above her.
The belay went perfect? the girl went flying and was lucky herself to hold on. And was untangling the rope as the climber fell. If I were dude I would rethink that set up the climb was epic though.
@Phlebiax because Didier rulz all :) Watch the movie "First Accent" and you will know all... (and will get a AWESOME wish to try it) ... :) I know I have, been climbing for over 2 years now! :) It's great.
sickkk climb, perfect belay. with a soft catch like that, she's helping the climber avoid smacking into the face. the length of the fall doesn't matter, it's just how you fall. at the end of the day, the climber didn't break his ankles and that's whats up. love it.
@Livio44 hey was der klettterer dort in die spalte setzt sind sogennante friends die sich je stärker sie belastet werden umso stärker in de fels spreizen es braucht wirklich viel bis so ein friend nachgibt. Aber man setzt die friends meist auch nach dem motto lieber einen mehr als einen zu wenig:
Obviously Didier Berthod is a powerful climber with amazing strength and technique...but as far as I can see he could learn a thing or two from Sonny Trotter about the Cobra. (and I'm sure Berthod could show Trotter a few things in return on other climbs.)
Check Video: Sonnie Trotter, first free ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14) And I like the belays Trotter was given a whole bunch more.
But WTF those guys are BOTH monsters....legends in their own right.
How should I respond to an idiot? Ah! rudeness that's the ticket.
I'll leave taking beginning climbing courses to pud knocking newbie duffers like YOU. The very fact that you're POSING as a rock jock on YouTube is rather hilarious actually. Seriously dude, who in the fuck do you think you are, the reincarnation Wolfgang Gullich? And by the way great video man...that guy IS a stud. Now go fuck yourself.
it's called dynamic belaying, it means there is less of a sudden jolt giving your gear a better chance of staying put, easing the load on the rope and the biggest reason on such a big fall, slamming. It's a good thing that she was small, a heavy person would have to run towards the wall where she just shot up =]
Wow that was amazing i just finished watching that doco on 1St Climbs it was a real shame his knee gave out trying the cobra a year later after that footage real inspiring Cheers
Do you guys really not know what a dynamic belay is? Those of you who are not climbers should google it. The belay was perfect and everything happened the way it should have.
@bf2015 your kind of right it does look like she gave him a soft belay but.....what it really looks like is that she was caught up in the moment watching him and wasnt paying attention i dont think she really ment to have that much slack...it could have been worse...
When someone on lead falls, there is going to be momentary slack as they fall towards their last piece of protection. Look at the very first frame of the belayer; the rope goes straight up. She was belaying properly.
The belay was NOT perfect. She wan't protected from an upward pull so if she was using that same belay on a bigger wall she would have kissed a lot of stone on the way up. I've seen whole lines of non multi directional pro ripped out by that action. The main shock absorbing element is your rope and a little slack helps. If you want to lessen the shock make quick draws out of Yates Shock Absorbers. However the belay wasn't screwed because it obviously saved the guy from cratering out.
@1138thz The belay was perfect for the situation they were in ,she didn't need to be protected from an upward pull the fact that she was pulled up decreases the load on the top piece of gear he fell onto and lessens the chance of it ripping (DYNAMIC BELAYING). there are cases where you would want your belayer tied down but not this one. Cobra crack, one of the world hardest naturally protected routes, a route that can only be done by the very best but you know better, did you go on a course?
Wow! The 5.0 fan boy and guru speaks directly to his fan base...what an honor. Few know this but sprudel50 is a genetic construct made from: one part Joe Brown, one part Reinhold Messner, 2 parts Dave MacLeod with a dash of John Hunt thrown into the soup to give him his amazing organizational and leadership skills. sprudel50 has done many things in climbing but his one day free solo of Cerro Torre's Devil’s Direttissima (without ice tools for the mushroom) stands above the rest.
Yes, I saw them, did you? You can't say with any certainty that the gear would have ripped...did you place it? And I'd say that Didier knows how make solid placements in BC granite (The Cobra) And I really hate to mention this but...You do know that a second that is isolated from the shock can render a dynamic belay if he simply lets it run a bit and doesn't just lock it down don't you? No, 2 people hanging on one piece is not ideal!
If you watch carefully, most of the slack is the rope falling with Didier before he gets caught by the pro, and the belayer manages to get a good yard taken in before she locks to hold him. so to be honest, they looked like they all knew what they were doing. I suspect the girl is probably no mean climber in her own right to be trusted with belaying on this attempt on what would have been the hardest crackline in the world at that time.
Unbeknownst to most,this climb was first freed by Gaston Rebuffatt,nude,back in the late 50's,utilizing a technique known affectionately as the French Jam.He was able to take no hands rests almost every other move.
No, Fishdick, dynamic belaying with stretch in the system is a good thing. Slack in the system is shitty belaying, and creates more shock on the gear, which you really wouldn't need on the tiny pro in this crack. She's too far out from the face and has the reflexes of Stephen Hawking, and thus took off like Supergirl while the guy almost cratered.
@DaKineMCoupe Yeah okay. And who exactly are you to speak for him? On a fall like that the jerk of the rope can be several kN, which, as can be seen in the video, was more than enough to send her barreling off her feet towards the wall. You do realize that is possible to be a great climber and still not have much common sense?
@rjholling I still don't see your point? There was no safety issue there, and If I were belaying him, I'd rather not be anchored, either. Whats the problem you're seeing?
@rjholling it doesn't matter for this, it was completely safe. it was a big fall. Anybody would have been lifted off of the ground. it is overhung, it is not like she was flying straight into the wall. Have you ever taken a big fall? do you even know what you are talking about. It doesn't seem like it.
least he was a sport about sonnie getting the first ascent, i loved this dvd so much though i can't seem to remember the name. someone mind reminding me cause i'd love to get another copy.
@bf2017a thanks for the feedback. I actually just picked up copies of it, Pure, Spray, and Dosage Vol. 3 so I'm gonna have some vids to keep me occupied for a bit lol.
I think they put a light woman on belay on purpose so the chance of the last piece popping is reduced.
If you watch Sonnie Trotters ascent, you'll see that he used two pieces for safety-reasons and Didier here takes a much higher risk of grounding when the piece is ripped out!
A light belay means a softer but longer fall. Nothing wrong with that.
I don't understand why on every single climbing video on youtube, people always say how wrong it is that the belayer got lifted up....
Who cares if the belayer lifts off, it doesn't matter, it doesn't hurt, its not unsafe, its a non-event. Why would anyone ever think that the belayer lifting up would matter in the slightest?? IT DOESN'T MATTER. It doesn't make them good or bad. ITS NOTHING. It's a total non event.
It depends on the situation. If the climber weighs much less than the belayer, then yes, the belayer should jump a little, or else the climber may be hurt. But if the belayer jumps too much he'll slam into the wall/first clip, which might (unlikely but possible) make him drop the rope. If the climber is heavy and the belayer is light, or if ground fall is likely, maybe the belayer should fall/sit instead of jumping.
So it is not so simple..get training, and become familiar with your partners.
anyways, in a climbing gym you basically always try to make the catch as light as possible, because it is fairly controlled and safe, but trad climbing, it is much more dangerous and complicated and there is no simple single rule to follow, it requires judgement. A hard catch is always better than ground fall (or hitting a ledge/protrusion etc)
do you guys have any idea who that is? really, thats Didier Berthod. thats cutting edge probably a 15a-b. hes on gear. if she were to anchor, it would rip. shes belaying becuase shes light. he know what hes doing.
watch the movie "First Ascent" it pretty much documents this entire climb by Didier and Sonnie. Watching it would settle a lot of this points. Rad line, awesome dude, happy climbing everyone, cheers!
The Belayer is the guy at the bottom who's feeding his rope through, they're the one who "Catches" the rope when the climber falls, it isn't done with bare hands but either manual belay device (Bug, ATC, VCR) which is a metal plate and a karabiner which allows for more manual control of the rope or an automatic device (gri-gri) which locks like a seatbelt
and no is not a 4it could be max0 meter fall..is about 20-25..it seems bigger but I think even the entire route he has done is less than 40.
if ya take a look he runs out for about 6-7 meters so the fall double this size and reach a 16-18 meters..plus some slack and the belayer fly..max 25 meters in my opinion..just becausa a 40 meter fall should have pull her more than 12 meters up the route.impossible because the first pro is lower!!
Was the belayer tied down at all? Or was she just ripped off her feet? I hear his feet hit the rock - I agree w/ the slck comment, no way in hell a belayer can protect someone 80' up in the air if the climber is 40'6" above his Pro.. not gonna happen. He could've put in another cam right before the 'lip'
This was a massive siege effort. So, to correct you on some points:
1) No, he could not have put in another piece of gear, he isn't capable of hanging onto that crux long enough to do so.
2) If the belayer is tied down, the load on the top piece of gear is massive as the system is far less dynamic, and if that top piece doesn't break, the climber will slam to a halt so fast he is likely to get injured.
3) someone 80' up can be protected by gear at 40'6". Its called a running belay, look it up :P
The comment made by azhum shows that he has never belayed a climber who took a fall. A person falling is falling 10 meters/30 feet per second. Not enough time to even piss in your pants.
What some of you people call crazy slack in the line, is actually not a slack at all. The editing of the video and the fast action tricks you into seeing that. Watching more closely, you will see that the slack is created by the fall, and increasing as he comes falling down. The belayer reacts fast, and pull in some slack.
As some have already commented, the climber took a calculated risk, and the belayer did a good job.
at 1:18 you can see the belayer didnt have much slack at all. Didier had sort of run that out he was gonna take a good whip anyway, you can actually see the belayer reel some slack in about as quick as she could before having to catch. i didnt see any gear pop, so the run out, the difference in the weight of the belayer and climber and the dynamics of the rope made for a crazy ass fall.
just imagine those two rocks close on his fingers.ouch
MrAircraft999 4 days ago
The rope had alot of slack didn't it!? Was she even belaying or did she just wait until he fell to start feeding the rope through? lol
awfullyfabulous 1 week ago
@awfullyfabulous
Im not much on a tight leash but she had WAY too much slack....clean underwear anybody?
BrodeFinePortraiture 6 days ago
First time I fell from lead climbing, I nearly crapped myself! The drop was only three feet... Reguardless, a drop is a drop, and they are all scary; especially this one! Kudos to you man, and the girl who was your belay.
CollegeBoy365 2 weeks ago
thats what you get for FINGERING the CRACK.....
guruget 3 weeks ago 2
Nothing rong with the belay she absorbed the fall very well (some gear higher up would have helped) but he was buisy
great vid
doubleboost 3 weeks ago
bad belay what the hell? great climb needs a better be-layer so you don't die for 1 and 2 you don't have to reclimb the whole dam thing again lol
mofoco1971 4 weeks ago
yea baby~ middle finger the crack, middle finger the mountain!!! finish it up man!
fran160890 1 month ago
For all the haters and wannabes. Rope didn't have any slack at all. When Didier fell rope started to get slack (first few frames on 1:18) and the girl tried to shorten the rope. IMO everything was clear. I would rather be belayed buy 50kg girl than a 90kg strong-as-a-ox-slam-me-to-the-rock guy. And I don't know why people have a need to comment about thing of which they don't have even a basic knowledge. Watch the whole movie.
mazonja 2 months ago 2
He actually took that fall loads of times, madness, shame he didn't manage the first ascent in the end, but, Sonnie did, so congrats to him, great work.
poeticmelodies 3 months ago
Lo mejor del climbing las caidas!!!!!! Beautifil shot
sansalka 4 months ago
sheeit! he came like 8ft from the bottom!
chillbilly21 4 months ago
I'm amazed at what you all are doing. I could never do anything like that. I just don't have it in me. I am absolutely blown away by this. I can't fu#$in believe you are doing this!
badmutha00 4 months ago
unlucky man - that shit aint easy and il give them their props and to anyone else who can do that!
amazing.
NACIXXEM 4 months ago
Holly crap!!! That was RAD!!!
harvdog26 4 months ago
does it not hurt to stick your hands in the crack like that?
Sh4tterdL0g1c 4 months ago
@Sh4tterdL0g1c He's taped up and I’m sure he’s already got some hard calloused fingers, but yeah, I bet it still hurts like hell.
Blackboilingrobotoil 4 months ago
@Blackboilingrobotoil hell yea it looks to me as if it would hurt more then like hell.
Sh4tterdL0g1c 4 months ago
1:20 (excuse me while I fly now)
cqtaylor 5 months ago
@cqtaylor LATER, GROUND DWELLERS
HeyLookItsASpah 5 months ago
Jeez - that part where he had to wedge one finger in the crack to pull himself up looked so painful.
Alexhauser23 5 months ago
If i was Didier Berthod i would have been PISSSSED at Sonnie Trotter..
XxD3ADxTR33xX 5 months ago
how the fuck you do that
KLONIME1001 5 months ago
I think ROCK CLIMBING NEEDS A LOT of concentration & NEEDS TO SHUT UP !!!!!!!!!
mushidushi 5 months ago 8
@mushidushi Im not sure I understand your comment. Are you saying that rock climbing needs to shut up?
SUP3RZ0MB1E 2 months ago
@mushidushi I think they were just trying to motivate him.....Had it been a solo, I'd agree with you because his life is on the line....but as it stands here, it just seems like motivation wasn't the worse thing.....
mousavsm 3 weeks ago
@mushidushi actually no, u need support and advise from ur partners
rulomano 2 weeks ago
why not use a helmet on that dome piece?
outOFthePITT 6 months ago
that wud be awesome for gear placements, up in the north york moors sometimes i have real trouble placing gear
CARVER1110 6 months ago
Woow 85 likes for a crap bit of information .. she had about 3 foot of slack .. his fall / speed / pound of preasure from the distance of fall im supprised they both didnt end up with seriouse injuries.. That girl belaying should of deffinatly be tied in , with a dynamic rope id rather have a bit of strain than flying up on the ait uncontrolably , poor belaying , poor safety , great climb though
TheRedline161 6 months ago
man gravity sucks huh? i like to stay on the ground think you.....
joshieboy07 6 months ago
lucky the incline of the rock face allowed him that distance to fall without breaking off solid rock a few times and also lucky he just happened to fall while in that feet down position facing towards the rock face and not when he was twisting or upside down, ah look if everyone had sense the hospitals would be half empty, and we'd have to clips to laugh or get horrified at, I would have enjoyed if the rope was accidentally wrapped around her foot.. woohooooo!! so long bitch!
PangeaSpreads 6 months ago
Hey I'm a climber... That wasn't just a dynamic belay. That was a belayer that was not tied in. Very stupid. She was lighter than him as well. She should have been tied in with a little slack on the runner, not standing there with ten feet of slack in the rope above her.
JumpyCamelSpider 6 months ago
great trad climb, bad belayer
DrSentry 6 months ago
Holy dog shit. That guy HAD to have pooped a little...towards the last 7 feet of that 40 foot fall!!! WHEW
obiewolfman 6 months ago
holy shit i thought i had upper body strength and balls...... i respect you lmao
stoutdylan77 6 months ago
where did she went? did they ever found her???
TheTourlous 6 months ago 2
thats from first ascent i think?
legz89 6 months ago
launch a bitch back to the kitchen-press 9
r2Kd0ugernaut 7 months ago 17
@r2Kd0ugernaut laughing my ass off XD thank you for that comment :)
JTeeProductions 7 months ago
@r2Kd0ugernaut you suck
OneWordForExample 1 week ago
why was his finger blue and purple!
- not a climber, just super interested person.
lsolate 7 months ago
The belay went perfect? the girl went flying and was lucky herself to hold on. And was untangling the rope as the climber fell. If I were dude I would rethink that set up the climb was epic though.
cybermarsactual 7 months ago
@cybermarsactual Since you don't climb, please consider a nice bag of STFU. Thanks.
MrJipstyle 7 months ago
God I love Squamish ..... Gimme the CHIEF!!!!!
1JustinBurkett1 7 months ago
I hate rock climbing that is dead difficult to do! I just want to seat on my favourite couch ok. He is awesome by the way!
magiccaloy1972 7 months ago
Why didn't he die?
Phlebiax 8 months ago
@Phlebiax because Didier rulz all :) Watch the movie "First Accent" and you will know all... (and will get a AWESOME wish to try it) ... :) I know I have, been climbing for over 2 years now! :) It's great.
isusekdragi123 8 months ago
well placed gear wins :D Cobra Crack is sick, i'd love to try it one day. right on man.
demizius 8 months ago
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Dude !! how did you do that with one finger !! that was mazing ! :)
EpitaphWords 8 months ago
Dude !! how did you do that with one finger !! that was mazing ! :)
EpitaphWords 8 months ago
sickkk climb, perfect belay. with a soft catch like that, she's helping the climber avoid smacking into the face. the length of the fall doesn't matter, it's just how you fall. at the end of the day, the climber didn't break his ankles and that's whats up. love it.
ksbhatia87 8 months ago
wie können die sicher sein, dass diese lächerlichen dinger da stecken bleiben bei zwei körpergewichten plus beschleunigung? das ist doch selbstmord.
Livio44 8 months ago
@Livio44 hey was der klettterer dort in die spalte setzt sind sogennante friends die sich je stärker sie belastet werden umso stärker in de fels spreizen es braucht wirklich viel bis so ein friend nachgibt. Aber man setzt die friends meist auch nach dem motto lieber einen mehr als einen zu wenig:
roman2907 8 months ago
HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAX
Robloxerable 8 months ago
HAHA YOU SUCK!! JUST KIDDING. That was an awesome climb. I would not have made it that far, once the climb goes past 95 degrees I have no chance.
xinecallaw 8 months ago
thats a close one :)
MrMattaoe 9 months ago
wow this must hurt to pull yourself up with only one finger :-S
TheCarmacon 9 months ago
This was a very cool movie / documentary. I know Didier got hurt, but I really think Sonnie's reach helped him conquer the Cobra.
pilotswife01 9 months ago
gotta be a tough s.o.b to wedge your finger in a crack and haul yourself up with it
jburrows2009 9 months ago
Obviously Didier Berthod is a powerful climber with amazing strength and technique...but as far as I can see he could learn a thing or two from Sonny Trotter about the Cobra. (and I'm sure Berthod could show Trotter a few things in return on other climbs.)
Check Video: Sonnie Trotter, first free ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14) And I like the belays Trotter was given a whole bunch more.
But WTF those guys are BOTH monsters....legends in their own right.
1138thz 10 months ago
Dang now thats crazy.Skydived 3 static,3free but that rock climbing shit is nuts.
germanshep1 10 months ago
I saw a big guy fall in Ferguson Canyon, Utah. He jerked his petit girlfriend right off the ground. She held his fall and got a compliment from me.
gerlynsto61 10 months ago
How should I respond to an idiot? Ah! rudeness that's the ticket.
I'll leave taking beginning climbing courses to pud knocking newbie duffers like YOU. The very fact that you're POSING as a rock jock on YouTube is rather hilarious actually. Seriously dude, who in the fuck do you think you are, the reincarnation Wolfgang Gullich? And by the way great video man...that guy IS a stud. Now go fuck yourself.
1138thz 11 months ago
it's called dynamic belaying, it means there is less of a sudden jolt giving your gear a better chance of staying put, easing the load on the rope and the biggest reason on such a big fall, slamming. It's a good thing that she was small, a heavy person would have to run towards the wall where she just shot up =]
akaAlexthekid 11 months ago
why didnt sumone heavier belaying him???
isketambola1 11 months ago
great fall ;)
plezalec51 11 months ago
wonder if they planned that fall?
tarmbruster1 11 months ago
@tarmbruster1 na that had never been climbed before it was supposed to be a first ascent
Aquassassinator 10 months ago
that belayer trout should be sacked !!!!!!!!!!!
TheBassTek 11 months ago
You cant gripe about a belayer from a film we weren;t there so we dont know. Really impresive climb how far above the protection is the cruz?.
bigwilf1966 1 year ago
Wow that was amazing i just finished watching that doco on 1St Climbs it was a real shame his knee gave out trying the cobra a year later after that footage real inspiring Cheers
losen90 1 year ago
lol i bet the girl rappel her way to ground again
klzglz 1 year ago
Thats sick. I'm not sure whats scariest - the mono or the fall where it looks like he's not too far from decking out. :-O
Newbie49 1 year ago
hahahahaha!!! was not expecting that.
eso516 1 year ago
Keep pressing "6" while watching the Vid and watch him fingering the wall.
LordRevolt 1 year ago 7
Rock climbing is cool, but its unfortunate that the vast majority of climbers are hipster trendy people
peroman15 1 year ago
@peroman15 woh woh woh... did you just say most climbers are hipster trendy people? Im confused...
Snorri520 1 year ago
@Snorri520 I did say that.
peroman15 1 year ago
well he isnt gettng that peg out of the rock!!!
ferraccinicolas 1 year ago
Do you guys really not know what a dynamic belay is? Those of you who are not climbers should google it. The belay was perfect and everything happened the way it should have.
bf2015 1 year ago 85
@bf2015 your kind of right it does look like she gave him a soft belay but.....what it really looks like is that she was caught up in the moment watching him and wasnt paying attention i dont think she really ment to have that much slack...it could have been worse...
ProfNishkamAcademy 1 year ago
@ProfNishkamAcademy
When someone on lead falls, there is going to be momentary slack as they fall towards their last piece of protection. Look at the very first frame of the belayer; the rope goes straight up. She was belaying properly.
Itstoearly 1 year ago
@bf2015 yup, perfect belay.
gleader 1 year ago
@bf2015 Right
Qdrum803 1 year ago
@bf2015
The belay was NOT perfect. She wan't protected from an upward pull so if she was using that same belay on a bigger wall she would have kissed a lot of stone on the way up. I've seen whole lines of non multi directional pro ripped out by that action. The main shock absorbing element is your rope and a little slack helps. If you want to lessen the shock make quick draws out of Yates Shock Absorbers. However the belay wasn't screwed because it obviously saved the guy from cratering out.
1138thz 11 months ago
@1138thz The belay was perfect for the situation they were in ,she didn't need to be protected from an upward pull the fact that she was pulled up decreases the load on the top piece of gear he fell onto and lessens the chance of it ripping (DYNAMIC BELAYING). there are cases where you would want your belayer tied down but not this one. Cobra crack, one of the world hardest naturally protected routes, a route that can only be done by the very best but you know better, did you go on a course?
sprudel50 11 months ago
@sprudel50
Wow! The 5.0 fan boy and guru speaks directly to his fan base...what an honor. Few know this but sprudel50 is a genetic construct made from: one part Joe Brown, one part Reinhold Messner, 2 parts Dave MacLeod with a dash of John Hunt thrown into the soup to give him his amazing organizational and leadership skills. sprudel50 has done many things in climbing but his one day free solo of Cerro Torre's Devil’s Direttissima (without ice tools for the mushroom) stands above the rest.
1138thz 11 months ago
@1138thz dude, if she'd been protected from an upward force either he would've slammed or the gear would've ripped. Did you see the forces involved?
SparksterMk1 4 months ago
@SparksterMk1
Yes, I saw them, did you? You can't say with any certainty that the gear would have ripped...did you place it? And I'd say that Didier knows how make solid placements in BC granite (The Cobra) And I really hate to mention this but...You do know that a second that is isolated from the shock can render a dynamic belay if he simply lets it run a bit and doesn't just lock it down don't you? No, 2 people hanging on one piece is not ideal!
better vid. watch?v=McHosr_98r0
1138thz 4 months ago
@bf2015 only she wasn't anchored. =( major mistake
katieco09 4 months ago
@katieco09 Can you please explain why you feel she needed to be anchored?
louiejack6 4 months ago
im guessing it was a bad idea to have the girl spot when she weighs like half the weight he does?
boogiekook 1 year ago
where did the girl go?
slafkec 1 year ago
@slafkec she was catapulted to the top. she finished the climb woooot!
gleader 1 year ago
mighty strong rope
banjoman 1 year ago
AWSOME LEAD MAN!! too sad u didnt make it...ever tried it again?
hosejockeyFW4 1 year ago
earth quake oh sht there goes my fingers
mustang13254 1 year ago
maaaaaaaan crack climbing is so amazing
HawtGlass 1 year ago
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Great attempt and the belayer seemed to do a good job even though she got lifted. Not much for either of them to hit.
rockclimbingrope 1 year ago
Great attempt and the belayer semed to do a good job even though she got lifted. Not much for either of them to hit.
rockclimbingrope 1 year ago
If you watch carefully, most of the slack is the rope falling with Didier before he gets caught by the pro, and the belayer manages to get a good yard taken in before she locks to hold him. so to be honest, they looked like they all knew what they were doing. I suspect the girl is probably no mean climber in her own right to be trusted with belaying on this attempt on what would have been the hardest crackline in the world at that time.
Cosmicraymondo 1 year ago 3
HA ha ha wow crazy !!! nice wipr...
therockclimber 1 year ago
Unbeknownst to most,this climb was first freed by Gaston Rebuffatt,nude,back in the late 50's,utilizing a technique known affectionately as the French Jam.He was able to take no hands rests almost every other move.
Cheers
noncosmological 1 year ago 2
@noncosmological
HAHAHA!
Becknology 1 year ago
@SandwichesPorkchop omg lol you fail
sharpupwnsyou 1 year ago
No, Fishdick, dynamic belaying with stretch in the system is a good thing. Slack in the system is shitty belaying, and creates more shock on the gear, which you really wouldn't need on the tiny pro in this crack. She's too far out from the face and has the reflexes of Stephen Hawking, and thus took off like Supergirl while the guy almost cratered.
joynthis 1 year ago
the guy almost decked...nothing to cheer about
platter1000 1 year ago
@SandwichesPorkchop Are you retarted?
jeepzmp 1 year ago
It would have been cooler if you made it. I give this one two thumbs down.
residualrevenge 1 year ago
I've got a more difficult crack to climb
Notwhatyouwanttohear 1 year ago
You guys don't know how bad I want to suck this guys cock right now.
Exogenesix19 1 year ago 4
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Great vid! So many terrible climbing vids circulating youtube now, I'm glad I came across this one. Whats the guess on difficulty of this climb? 10?
thesimpsons918 1 year ago
gayy
thesimpsons918 1 year ago
Comment removed
BL338 1 year ago
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next time don't let your 100 pound girlfriend belay you, dumbass.
rjholling 1 year ago
@rjholling I'm sure a guy climbing a 5.14 crack doesn't need your advice or opinion. The girl caught the fall just fine.
DaKineMCoupe 1 year ago 8
@DaKineMCoupe Yeah okay. And who exactly are you to speak for him? On a fall like that the jerk of the rope can be several kN, which, as can be seen in the video, was more than enough to send her barreling off her feet towards the wall. You do realize that is possible to be a great climber and still not have much common sense?
... well at least for a while.
rjholling 1 year ago
@rjholling I still don't see your point? There was no safety issue there, and If I were belaying him, I'd rather not be anchored, either. Whats the problem you're seeing?
DaKineMCoupe 1 year ago 3
@rjholling it doesn't matter for this, it was completely safe. it was a big fall. Anybody would have been lifted off of the ground. it is overhung, it is not like she was flying straight into the wall. Have you ever taken a big fall? do you even know what you are talking about. It doesn't seem like it.
P3313 1 year ago 3
DUDES STFU UR NOT HELPING >.>
Flex0004 1 year ago
This clip is from the documentary First Ascent. Great film, won awards.
jerramy 1 year ago
thats some shit belaying.dynamic belaying is one thing but all that slack is another
markandrach 1 year ago
@markandrach Nothing wrong with the belaying. There is so much slack because he is leading and he is very run-out from his last pro.
bf2017a 1 year ago 2
least he was a sport about sonnie getting the first ascent, i loved this dvd so much though i can't seem to remember the name. someone mind reminding me cause i'd love to get another copy.
OrigProdigy 1 year ago
@OrigProdigy It's called First Ascent.
bf2017a 1 year ago
@bf2017a thanks for the feedback. I actually just picked up copies of it, Pure, Spray, and Dosage Vol. 3 so I'm gonna have some vids to keep me occupied for a bit lol.
OrigProdigy 1 year ago
fuck!!! now that is inspiring !
Chorilin 1 year ago
holly shit, that's a FALL :-)
leguanc 1 year ago
Damn!! great vid!!!
0chemistrystudent0 1 year ago
great work looking forward to master this piece next time he tries
ESPY1200 1 year ago
Haha, spotter girl was all like "3, 2, 1, BLASTOFF"
npacebg 1 year ago
@npacebg
so true ...Houston we got a problem swappppp rocket start
ESPY1200 1 year ago
this was an awesome climb and a awesome fall i like this.
samury80 1 year ago
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I've done this rock before, you need to be a real athlete, obviously this guy isn't.
TheRealChadMustang 1 year ago
yeesh he came close to decking, watching other vids of people on the cobra never seen anyone take that size of fall.
Kemics101 1 year ago
well.. he fell 'cause of the middlefinger saying fuck you wall! The wall got angry....
sjeessjees 1 year ago 3
Sweet use of the middle finger!
cbrusharmy 1 year ago
scaring
BTW: gr8 Body!!!
kleimber 1 year ago
As simply a novice, exactly how many meters between cams should you use when trad climbing?
jmk1a1 1 year ago
lol 1:21
coobgoosh 1 year ago
I think they put a light woman on belay on purpose so the chance of the last piece popping is reduced.
If you watch Sonnie Trotters ascent, you'll see that he used two pieces for safety-reasons and Didier here takes a much higher risk of grounding when the piece is ripped out!
A light belay means a softer but longer fall. Nothing wrong with that.
Hasuris 1 year ago
is this classed as laybacking?
funbuoj 1 year ago
uhm......no
sdmbaddict 1 year ago
I don't understand why on every single climbing video on youtube, people always say how wrong it is that the belayer got lifted up....
Who cares if the belayer lifts off, it doesn't matter, it doesn't hurt, its not unsafe, its a non-event. Why would anyone ever think that the belayer lifting up would matter in the slightest?? IT DOESN'T MATTER. It doesn't make them good or bad. ITS NOTHING. It's a total non event.
madvlad666 2 years ago 5
If a person takes a big fall, aren't you supposed to give a little hop to lighten the catch? Otherwise they swing in hard and wreck agains the wall
dinkydau444 1 year ago
It depends on the situation. If the climber weighs much less than the belayer, then yes, the belayer should jump a little, or else the climber may be hurt. But if the belayer jumps too much he'll slam into the wall/first clip, which might (unlikely but possible) make him drop the rope. If the climber is heavy and the belayer is light, or if ground fall is likely, maybe the belayer should fall/sit instead of jumping.
So it is not so simple..get training, and become familiar with your partners.
madvlad666 1 year ago 4
anyways, in a climbing gym you basically always try to make the catch as light as possible, because it is fairly controlled and safe, but trad climbing, it is much more dangerous and complicated and there is no simple single rule to follow, it requires judgement. A hard catch is always better than ground fall (or hitting a ledge/protrusion etc)
madvlad666 1 year ago 3
@madvlad666 - it's because in the rock gyms they're teaching people to clip into a daisy chain coming out of the floor.
PaulWolf2007 1 year ago
@PaulWolf2007 : not "in the rock gyms". In your rock gym.
Keep in mind that vids and commenters here are from all around the globe.
callmeJorn 1 year ago
I dont know how had the best time their, the belayer or the climber ;]. That is actually more inspiring than terrifying.
ceebo100 2 years ago 3
It isn't bolted because there is a crack to protect it.
colinjbartholomew 2 years ago 19
@colinjbartholomew yep, he managed to squeeze in one piece of protection. Luckily it didn't fail. The same cannot be said for the belay.
craigcat 1 year ago
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thats sick omg, why isnt the route boulted?
leozilla 2 years ago
do you guys have any idea who that is? really, thats Didier Berthod. thats cutting edge probably a 15a-b. hes on gear. if she were to anchor, it would rip. shes belaying becuase shes light. he know what hes doing.
scalise8989 2 years ago 2
Comment removed
DFaz3 2 years ago
@scalise8989 yeah man its called the cobra crack 14c. on the back side of the chief in Sqaumish B.C.
clemetson91 2 years ago
eeeh, who filmed the part at 0:53?
Zedd0z 2 years ago 3
Comment removed
snowyywwinters 2 years ago
you have absolutly no idea how difficult placing pro on that crux is
smeghead666 2 years ago
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That's why the belayer ties in from the rear.. So ya don't go flyin!
NavySEALs523 2 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
what a shit climber
burrysw 2 years ago
watch the movie "First Ascent" it pretty much documents this entire climb by Didier and Sonnie. Watching it would settle a lot of this points. Rad line, awesome dude, happy climbing everyone, cheers!
bryantuten 2 years ago 5
she saved his life
axelsacca 2 years ago
basically the point of the belayer.
thats like saying " the oxygen in the air saved his life"
fuckhead
burrysw 2 years ago
belayers tend to do that regularly, otherwise they're not very good
smeghead666 2 years ago 2
@smeghead666 what is a belayer?
sonjaxfactor 2 years ago
The Belayer is the guy at the bottom who's feeding his rope through, they're the one who "Catches" the rope when the climber falls, it isn't done with bare hands but either manual belay device (Bug, ATC, VCR) which is a metal plate and a karabiner which allows for more manual control of the rope or an automatic device (gri-gri) which locks like a seatbelt
smeghead666 2 years ago
feeds rope from bottom on lead climbing
but takes rope in on top rope climbing
basically stoppingthe dude from falling
funbuoj 1 year ago
the mono undercling/finger jam looks like so unbelievably stoopid hard
PilgrimHaus 2 years ago
no way guys..she do the right thing..
and no is not a 4it could be max0 meter fall..is about 20-25..it seems bigger but I think even the entire route he has done is less than 40.
if ya take a look he runs out for about 6-7 meters so the fall double this size and reach a 16-18 meters..plus some slack and the belayer fly..max 25 meters in my opinion..just becausa a 40 meter fall should have pull her more than 12 meters up the route.impossible because the first pro is lower!!
A2Rclimbing 2 years ago
he have lucky and she was
minidomen 2 years ago
Was the belayer tied down at all? Or was she just ripped off her feet? I hear his feet hit the rock - I agree w/ the slck comment, no way in hell a belayer can protect someone 80' up in the air if the climber is 40'6" above his Pro.. not gonna happen. He could've put in another cam right before the 'lip'
mchar69 2 years ago
This was a massive siege effort. So, to correct you on some points:
1) No, he could not have put in another piece of gear, he isn't capable of hanging onto that crux long enough to do so.
2) If the belayer is tied down, the load on the top piece of gear is massive as the system is far less dynamic, and if that top piece doesn't break, the climber will slam to a halt so fast he is likely to get injured.
3) someone 80' up can be protected by gear at 40'6". Its called a running belay, look it up :P
siminuria 2 years ago 2
The comment made by azhum shows that he has never belayed a climber who took a fall. A person falling is falling 10 meters/30 feet per second. Not enough time to even piss in your pants.
callmeJorn 2 years ago
What some of you people call crazy slack in the line, is actually not a slack at all. The editing of the video and the fast action tricks you into seeing that. Watching more closely, you will see that the slack is created by the fall, and increasing as he comes falling down. The belayer reacts fast, and pull in some slack.
As some have already commented, the climber took a calculated risk, and the belayer did a good job.
callmeJorn 2 years ago 2
Now thats climbing. No bolts and protect as you go. Call me old fashioned and it'd be true. But hey, I grew up admiring Johnny Dawes.
ChapmanBertelli 2 years ago 2
at 1:18 you can see the belayer didnt have much slack at all. Didier had sort of run that out he was gonna take a good whip anyway, you can actually see the belayer reel some slack in about as quick as she could before having to catch. i didnt see any gear pop, so the run out, the difference in the weight of the belayer and climber and the dynamics of the rope made for a crazy ass fall.
fightingwords 2 years ago