ronfernandez: ok, I thought that one on d video had a truss road.i run a little guitar repair/set up in one of my rooms mostly electrics sometimes I get acustics and like you mentioned sometimes d buzz comes from loose braces.saddle or truss road vibrating in its channel under the fretboard.thnks for your great video im in westminster ca.would b nice to know why OVATION GUITARS usually crack at the top.
@musicofz I suspect that some Ovations have a tendency to crack on the soundboard when there is low humidity because the body is too rigid to allow for the sides to move along with the shrinking of the soundboard. According to Jose Oribe's book the Fine Guitar, a spruce soundboard of a classical guitar expands across the lower bout by 3mm when the humidity changes from 25% to 95%; a western red cedar soundboard expands by 2mm.
hi ron: that was great tecnique to file and level d frets.another technique is to tighten the truss road all the way an then use a C clamp at the headstock with a little piece of wood in between.now clamp it and tighten the C clamp until you get the neck straight(this way you are simulating string tension on d neck in real playing position).
@musicofz. Thanks. Since I deal with hand made Spanish classical and flamenco guitars that technique will not work because we do not use truss rods. The Spanish integrated neck-body construction (also called the Spanish foot method) is very strong so truss rods are unnecessary. In the Spanish method, the neck is carved, then the sides are inserted into slots in the neck, the face is added and then the back is glued on with the "foot" of the neck glued directly to the inside back of the guitar.
How to know when it's time to change the frets? You can't just always sand down them to equal height. Also if buying new frets which height should I consider? How does height/width of frets change the sound/playability of the guitar?
@ie666death. I do not have simple answers to your questions. Your technique, string choice, and style (classical, flamenco, folkloric, jazz, etc.) and other factors somewhat determine the choice of fret wire. But, as a starting point i suggest that when you cannot get a clean sound you should show the instrument to a good professional repair person. If you measured fret height on most standard classical guitar you would find them to be about 1.5mm.
@FernandezMusic. So that means that it's OK to have a little wear on the frets as long as it doesn't buzz? That's just what i wanted to know , thank you!
@craigeymac Hi Craigeymac, I cannot diagnose the problem without seeing the guitar. However, normally the first thing I would check is whether the next fret (the 12th) is significantly higher then the 11th fret. You can do this by using a straight edge. I use a metal straight edge but you could use the edge of a credit card. Place the card's edge on the the 11th, 12th and 13th fret. If it rocks then the 12th fret is too high. In any case you should have a good repair person look at the guitar.
With practice on cheap guitars, the right tools and study of all the guitars you can inspect, you can learn to do this work. You can start by simply checking the levelness of 3 frets at a time up and down the neck with a small straight edge (a plastic credit card works). This video was intended as an introduction to set-up. Other important related issues are intonation, string height, nut/saddle compensation and neck relief.
@1950sparks. They should but they don't. Go check the guitars at your local guitar store and you will find high and uneven frets on most of the classicals. The nut and saddle are usually set too high at the factories because the stores do not want the guitars to buzz. Generally, uneven frets are found on factory guitars but I have found then also on very expensive handmade guitars. Also it is important to realize that fret work is altered by humidity changes.
@FernandezMusic I know. But it's just funny to see a file have that name! I was in technology once & saw it engraved on the bottom of the file. It was shocking at first until I realized it was the name of the file, but it would be abit rude to say it cause people will think you were swearing.
@trashfox89 Thanks for your email. The video is not intended as a how-to-do-it video but only as an overview of some essential steps. Presently I am only working on the guitars I import and a few vintage Spanish or Portuguese instruments. There are many good luthiers around North America who can do this work. Now that you have seen the video you can speak with them about the procedure. Regards, Ron.
@filmwatcher999 This is absolutely the correct way to check the levelness of 3 frets at a time. In this video I am concerned with eliminating high frets. The issue of "neck relief" is a different matter. Neck relief is a slight curvature in the neck which is necessary to reduce string buzzing. Steel string guitars usually adjust neck relief with a truss rod. For classical guitars a slight amount of neck relief is worked into the fretboard.
@filmwatcher999 The 3rd issue is neck inclination. A neck on a modern classical guitar does not extend parrallel to the plane of the soundboard. If a straight edge were set on the soundboard you could see that the nut is about 3 mm higher than you would expect it.
Neck relief and neck inclination are very important matters but they are beyond the scope of this little YouTube video.
@pivotduke2 These are procedures used on fine classical and flamenco guitars with ebony fingerboards. If you have a steel string guitar with fingerboard binding you must protect the binding. These are not procedures for the inexperienced. These procedures should not damage the fingerboard. If you do scratch a raw rosewood or ebony fingerboard, it is s simply matter to sand between the frets with a series of sandpaper up to 2000 grit and polish with 0000 (ultra fine) grade sandpaper.
Thanks Sir i was thinking on leaving there my first guitar now i would like to did it what you do to feel it great again, its bad cuz in around here there's not good luthiers
@karahan246 I have done a limited amount of work on Baroque guitars and lutes. I suggest that you looked up the Lute of America which has abundant information on European Lutes.
If I sent you a guitar for a check up like you demonstrated in this video, what would you charge? I have a Yamaha F-310 acoustic guitar that needs some minor fixes like this and I believe you're the man for the job. Its not an expensive guitar, but it's what I learned to play on and sounds really nice so I would like it fixed up some. Let me know what you think.
@j0hnhaney . Thanks for your email. I am not dong repair work except on old Spanish built guitars or ones I import. However, there are many good repair people would understand how to do good set-up around the US and Canada. Now that you have seen what I do, you can search out a local repair person and ask them what their procedure for fret dressing is. Regards.
Great video. I have a Yamaha G-55A classical giutar and wanted to know how to lower the action on it. I'm not sure if the nut or the saddle are glued in on my guitar. Is there any other way to lower the action? And is sanding the saddle the prefered method for lowering the action?
@fatrat440 Greetings. How high are the strings right now? Measure the height of the 6th string and the 1st string at the 12th fret--measure from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string. How much bone saddle is projecting above the wood of the bridge? Do these measurements with a millimeter ruler and tell me what they are and I might be able to make a suggestion on how to proceed.
@FernandezMusic Thanks for the response. 6th string-low E, measures 4.77mm @ 12th fret. 1st string-high E, measures 4.39mm @ 12th fret. Saddle is projecting 4.33mm @ 6th string and 3.86 @ 1st string. Your suggestions would be much appreciated. This being an inexpensive guitar I think the saddle is plastic, not bone. and it measures 1.87mm thick. Again I do not know yet if the saddle is glued in or not. I am assuming the nut is glued in place as the top is exposed
I tried to make my own fretboard for my homemade guitar, needless to say it turned out like crap... This time I'm going with Stewmac, hopefully this time I won't screw up.
I'm making a Les Paul Goldtop, by the way. Wish me luck!
@FernandezMusic I wasn't following your video if that's what you thought. I decided it would be a great idea just to rush it. I got a scrap piece of walnut, cut out the shape (which turned out great) then marked the slots. But instead of using a knife to mark it, I just went ahead and cut it with a saw (which wasn't even the right size) On top of that, I sanded the radius without even thinking about making it proper, and in the end it was uneven, messy, and an embarrassment honestly.
@GunsNSnakepits I thank you for sharing your experience. Experience is a great teacher. Now you have a better idea about which aspects of fretting are difficult. Your next attempt will surely benefit form this first effort. Stewart MacDonald (who sells my videos) is a good supplier to the guitarmaking community. Best regards.
@SasaYamaoka I cannot quite envision the problem. But in any case I think you should show it to an experience repair person. It does not sound like an expensive repair.
@fattirevsbud I only do fret dressing and set-up for the guitars i import not for the general public. I suppose $75 to $150 is a fair range of prices for fret dressing and basic set-up according to what is being done. Intonation refinement is a whole different matter. Full fret replacement is much more expensive.
I bought a guitar, and the neck is like "warped", I have tried everything. A friend said that the neck can be replaced. Is this something very very expensive??
@TechnicalFreak To REPLACE a neck or the fingerboar on a classical guitar is expensive. If the guitar does not have a truss rod sometimes the frets can be removed and then the fingerboard can be planed to remove the warp (if it is not too severe) and the frets can be replaced. I can not really help you without seeing the guitar. I suggest that you take it to a few stores/repairpeople and ask their opinion.
I bought a 7 string not too long ago and the D string and A around the 5th-8th fret produce dead notes, you play a solo sweep or do whatever and all of a sudden you get there and nothing... any advice?
@JYZProductions Greetings.To solve this problem you should contact the maker of the instrument. If you want to learn why an instrument has dead notes I suggest that you read/view Roger Siminoff's book and DVD the Art of Tap Tuning or the Responsive Guitar by Ervin Somogyi. If there is a neck/fret problem you should read some of the books on fret work, for example by Stewart MacDonald.
@zami0969. The basic principles are the same but with an electric guitar you have to deal with a truss rod and a radiussed (not flat) fingerboard. Also, some electrics have lacquered fingerboards which must be protected; you have to be very careful about getting steel wool or sanding grit into the pick-ups. You should read Dan Erlewine' s and Hideo Kamimoto's book on guitar repair before working on your electric.
I thought this presantation was wonderful. I have most of the tools and am lucky to help out on a CNC prima lazer for cutting profiles on meta.lThiswill help me make the safty guard for the frets. My classical guitar buzzes sometimes when i play and it freaks me out. Especially when i have worked hard practicing on a peice only to be let down by the tone and the buzzes. All the best GGSNI.
@ColinBurnside There are many reasons for buzzes--bad strings, high frets, neck relief problems, loose braces, etc. My video shows only how to correct uneven frets (where some fret is too high compared to another). i did not go into issues of proper neck relief, neck inclination, warped or twisted neck--these are involved matters which should be handled by a professional. Perhaps the most important thing here is to learn to check the levelness of fret height--such unevenness is very common.
I use a longer abrasive block (eg box section alu) for dressing the frets to ensure final flatness. I like your protective "bibs". You cover essential details to regarding sound and action. It is a fine guitar maker who can get the fretting right first time without the slightest buzz!
Thanks for your comment. There are many ways to dress frets. A longer abrasive block can be useful in many situations. I think that the important thing is to check the quality/accuracy of your work with something like a straight edge across 3 frest. This little video is merely an overview, it is not intended to be a complete course on fret dressing, it was originally intended to show the care we take with the guitars we distribute.
Electric guitars have some different issues: the radiused fingerboard, the adjustment of the truss rod, whether the fingerboard is lacquered and has to be protected with masking tape, whether there is an outside binding of the fretboard. I suggest that you watch all of the video on fretting steel string and electric guitars-- there are certainly things which I have missed mentioning.
This is a good question. The simple answer is you learn by experience. The way I think of it is that I try first to hammer the fret in and then I check it with a straight edge across 3 frets. If the hammering did not work I look at the fret slot from the side to see whether the fret slot was sawed deeply enough. If I determine that I cannot hammer the fret in deep enough I sand the fret. I continually check my work with a small straight edge. I hope this helps.
While my video is less than 8 minutes the actual process takes about 1 hour. The proper tools (diamond crowning files, etc.) are $300 to $400. Please note that my techniques are for nylon string guitars with flat (not radiussed) fingerboards. Classical guitar fingerboards have no inlays and no lacquer finish on them. Unlike some acoustic guitars, there are no edge bindings. Re-checking levelness with a straight edge throughout the process is very important.
Greetings, I specialize in nylon string guitars and I have little practical experience with repairing or modifying electric guitars. I suggest that you contact YouTube video sites which deal specifically with electric guitars.
@weaponx29 you can but the safe way would to keep the nut you have now and put the locking nut just behind that one. If there isn't room then make sure that you DO NOT cut into the fingerboard, cut in from the nut slot back towards the headstock, you will in intonate right if you do
@weaponx29 it depends on where they're buzzing, if they're buzzing on the 1st threw 5th fret then its most likely the nut. if it's buzzing else where then trying adjusting your bridge and or neck tention. if you have never adjusted a truss rod before go to someone who has or at least remember to not turn more then 1/4 of a turn at a time.
@weaponx29 you can replace it with a locking nut but you'll have to modify your guitar, it would be a good idea to take it to a pro at this point. but if you want to do it yourself just remember that if you cut into the fret board towards the bridge you wont be able to intonate correctly.
My video shows how I work on nylon string guitars which have unfinished fingerboards which do not have a radius as does your electric guitar. These guitars do not have truss rods. Your situation is different. Before you work on the frets you have to consider whether the neck relief has been properly adjusted with the truss rod. You have to protect the wood of the fingerboard (probably with masking tape) and you have to consider the radius in the fingerboard.
Before you try to work on your electric guitar and damage the frets and the fingerboard I suggest that you read some books on fretting such as those sold by Stewart MacDonald. Regards
Very very well done! I have a Saga guitar kit and the neck has a bow (in the wrong direction!) boy am in in for job. But I am learning quickly. I am going to make this $100 dollar guitar play if it kills me. haha
I like your determination. There is nothing like experimentation and mistakes.
When I made my first mandolin I also made a case. I put the latches on upside down. It worked but it was inconvenient. I showed the instrument and case to an old Spanish trained luthier and he said, " You'll never do that again."
Does that improve the playing of the guitar ???.. I have a cheap Squier mini ( travel guitar .. on which i update everything ( bridge , p-u , tuners etc..) but still i found the neck not that smooth to play , the fret are big comparing to my u.s strat . the frets are big and round in shape .. would a fret dressing help it on my little squier ?the guy who set it told me i was the action is as low as i can go . Would a fret dress help for the better action ?? i wanna play low action
It is not possible for me to evaluate your particular guitars without seeing it in person. My general comments would be that if you have some high frets, or low and high spots on some frets this procedure will help. By smoothing the frets the guitar will be easier to play. By refining the fret edges the guitar neck will be more comfortable. If you have neck inclination or neck relief issues this procedure will not solve them.
This is a pretty good video. Is this mainly to be done on new guitars? It seems a topic that was missed is the general straightness of the neck, though I suppose on classical guitars the lower string tension will not warp a neck like steel strings. But isn't that something that you should check for?
I do this work on new and used guitars. I chose not to get into the matters of straightness, neck relief and neck inclination because they are too involved for this short format--I wanted to focus on how frets are dressed. Such neck/fingerboard repairs deserve extensive attention. If you are generally interested in how classical guitars are put together you should watch my 3 hour DVD, Classical and Flamenco Guitarmaking with Benito Huipe. There you will see many things left out of this video.
Well, I have learned a bit by watching you, and I appreciate the video. It seems you are really good at dressing frets and use your time efficiently, I tend to take way too long doing fret work. I like how you polished the frets with a rotary tool; its much more efficient than using my hands.
I am glad there are people like you making videos. There are some other videos on the net that aren't very good.
For anyone without a Dremel tool, a satisfactory method to polish frets is to go through a series of sand papers 320, 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500 and 0000 (4 zero grade) steel wool. If the fingerboard is a simple ebony or rosewood fingerboard on a classical you can do this without masking tape or a fret protector. If the fingerboard is inlaid and has binding on the edge then you will probably want to use masking tape so you only work on the fret surface and not the fingerboard.
Thanks for the compliment. In 1965 I started to imported Jose Ramirez guitar from Spain with my father. From that time I had opportunities to observe many great Spanish makers. In the 1980's I was supplying soundboard wood to Spanish makers. At that time I made a mandolin from a book. I taught myself French Polishing and then was tutored by a master French cabinet makers. By the 1990's I was importing Spanish guitars full time and needed to learn to do repairs.
In 1994 I spent 2 months making a video with Benito Huipe on making guitars with hand tools. Through the 90's I visited the Esteve, Sanchis and Mervi workshops in Madrid and shops in Granada, Cordoba and Madrid. In 2000 I finally attended a luthery school for 10 days and learned techniques of Kenny Hill. My membership in the Guild of American Luthiers has given me the opportunity to speak with and observe American and Canadian Luthiers. For 2 decades I also have visited makers in Portugal.
Everyday I do repairs on fretted instruments. My knowledge is based on practical experience, reading and observation of others.
If you are interested in guitar building or repair I suggest that you read all the old issues of the American Lutherie, read Cumpiano's book Guitarmaking, and then get a kit from Stew-Mac or Luthiers Mercantile's catalogs and assemble/finish an instrument. Try to repair cheap instruments. Find a school or luthier who teaches. Learn by doing.
Many years ago I used masking tape. I found that it did not protect the fingerboard from small cuts made by the triangle file used for beveling the end of the frets nor by the small rectangle shaped filed used to smooth the corner of the frets. Since masking tape could easily be cut by the files I decided to smoothed the edges of the files and also improved my technique. The diamond crowning files are no threat to the fingerboard. Paying careful attention to the job is the best safety method.
Please remember that my video is about classical guitars which have a simple ebony or rosewood fingerboard, not about steel string guitars which often have binding on the edge of the fingerboard, ornamentation or even a lacquer finish. In the video I do use a thin metal fretboard guard at certain points. If you are doing work on an ornamented fingerboard you might want to use masking tape. I do not know of any experienced luthier in Spain using masking tape for these operations.
My video is how I actually do the work. It is not a comprehensive course. I have done this operation on more than 8,000 guitars and I am experienced in these operations. The 3 corner file I use has been dulled on the 3 edges to prevent damage to the end of the fingerboard. This is a common luthier's tool which can be made or bought over the counter from luthier supply houses. Also, since the classical fingerboard is raw wood it is simple to sand or repair with ebony dust and super glue.
Hey has anyone here heard of the American guitarist Lawson Rollins? I have both his albums, Infinita and Espirito. He is amazing. The very reason I picked up a classical guitar again after 24yrs of not playing! You can see his videos on youtube playing Fire Cadenza. Anyway, the action on his guitar is very low. I think he also uses high tension strings the achieve this. Would I be right in thinking this?
I do not know what strings Rollins uses and it would be nice to find out. While the tension of the strings is a important factor in string height there are a few others such as the neck inclination, the amount of neck relief, the right hand technique of the player, saddle height AND the stiffness of the lower bout of the soundboard. Stiffness is largely a result of the inherent quality of the wood, thickness of the top, amount of doming, and height and placement of braces.
Yes, there really is a lot of things to consider when setting up a guitar! I know the guitar Rollins uses is a Pedro Maldonado, of Spain. Now to find out his set-up:-)
Hi. I'm interested in your comments concerning saddle set up. At 5:54 on you mention that the high edge should be toward the sound hole. I received a new classical guitar today and the low edge is towards the sound hole! Should I reverse this? If I do the the low end of the length wise slant will be at the 6th or low E string. Is this correct? Also, 6th string, 7th fret. How high in mm should the string be from the fret? Mine is 5mm! I feel this is too high. What do you think?
You cannot simply reverse the saddle. You probably need a new saddle. We typically measure the string height at the 12th fret. For a classical guitar, measuring from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string, the gap should be about 4mm for the 6th string (12th fret) and 3mm for the 1st string (12th fret). While these measurements are widely regarded as standard by guitar technicians some players like them a little higher or lower.
I'm SERIOUSLY interested in becoming a Luthier,can i buy the proper books/videos online,or would one have to attend a class in person is "hands on" absolutely necessary?,don't know of any in Southern Calif.Thanx.
First of all, join the Guild of American Luthiers in Tacoma. Read all the back issue of their journa--American Lutherie. Contact the the Southern California Association of Luthiers..Read all the books, view all of the videos (including mine, of course). Try your hand at assembling a guitar kit from Stewart MacDonald or Luthiers Mercantile International. Attend courses around the country. Try to make some instruments from scratch from the many books. Experiment. Build instruments. Get to it.
I cannot properly advise you without seeing the guitar--there are too many considerations. For example, whether the nut is glued in or not; whether you know how to loosen it without damage to the guitar. Also do you have the right tools to do the job--do you have good files, feeler gauges or micrometer for checking string height. Is this a cheap or an expensive guitar. I suggest that you show the guitar to someone with experience who can give you first hand advise. Good luck.
Ok thanks for the clarification. What I am ultimately wanting to do is lower the action closer to the nut. I have researched two different ways to go about this... 1.) Taking the nut off and sanding it down slightly from the bottom. 2.) Filing down the string grooves a bit so they sit in the nut a bit lower. I am leaning more towards option one. Any input would be appreciated.
The basic principles are the same but you also have to deal with the fact that on a steel string guitar the fingerboard has a radius whereas on a classical guitar the fingerboard is essentially flat (with a little neck relief). Also steel string guitars usually have a truss rod to adjust the neck relief. On a classical guitar the neck relief is planed into the fingerboard and/or a result of the pull of the strings. Perhaps other viewers could help us by mentioning other differences.
Perhaps the most important point in the video is the use of the straight edge to check the levelness of the frets. If the frets are level no dressing is needed. if a single fret is high it may be possible to pound it in. If several frets are SLIGHTLY high then light sanding pressure may be sufficient. If the many frets are quite high and cannot be pounded in then more sanding or pressure may be needed. You must CONTINUALLY check your work with the straight edge.
I think you should have the bridge glued down. It is only going to get worse. This is a simple job for any experienced repair person who has the right clamps. If it is not an expensive guitar you might consult some guitar repair books and try it yourself. Stewart McDonald and Luthiers Mercantile International sell books which could help you.
I got a new orpheus valley fiesta fc classical guitar two days ago. When I press the frets on the D and A string it buzzes. It's weird cuz when I don't press the fret real hard then i get a normal sound, but when I press it hard i get a buzz... do you know what the problem is?
I cannot answer your question without personally seeing your guitar. Since I only work on nylon string guitars I suggest that you take your guitar to a good repairperson who works on electric guitars.
Hi Robert. I do not understand your comment. Please state your question in other words. Are you trying to ask if I finish guitars? I do finish guitars with shellac using a French Polish technique which is explained in my DVD, French Polishing for Guitarmakers.
I do French Polish Finishing on flamenco and classical guitars which have a shellac finish. I do not do nitrocellulose finishes and I do not do catalyzed lacquer finishes which are the type on 99% of modern guitars.
Nitrocellulose lacquer, Oil Varnish, polyacrylic "lacquer", polyurethane, water based "lacquer, shellac, seedlac. I only work with shellac and seedlac. You can find extensive information by looking up guitar finishes on the internet.
I do not paint the back of the neck because I only work on classical guitars--I do not use paint at all. Makers of electric guitars do use paint you should ask someone who does that kind of work. You can look at the website of Stewart MacDonald.
Oh wow, what kind of model guitar is that? Mine has the SAME tuning machine plates, as well as the machines themselves. Mine is a Kremona Orpheus Valley Granada built in Bulgaria. The video was interesting, always nice to know how to do it if needed.
It is an Esteve 7 made in Spain. The present Esteve 7 has different tuners. I have been importing Esteve guitars since the early 1990's. I have imported 13,000 guitars from Spain and I have set-up and dressed the frets on the last 8,000 of these guitars. I also import guitars of Juan Hernandez, Manuel Adalid, Vicente Sanchis and Felix Manzanero. In the mid-1960's my family and I imported guitars from Miguel Rodriguez, Jose Ramirez, Arcangel Fernandez, Juan Alvarez and Manuel de la Chica.
Fantastic video. This is great information for me. I am building my own experimental guitars, and I know nothing about fret work. The only thing i dont' have is a crowning file, but i'll just do what I can for now. Thanks!
i just visited the local music store and turns out i hadnt attached the string correctly to the saddle. apparently it should be turned three times around itself to hold. i turned only twice, which caused it to snap off when i tuned it! thanks for the tips
hi i just changed strings on my Yamaha C-40, and now the top E string keeps breaking when i try to tune it! i also noticed that the tuning peg felt real loose.. appreciate any help
If the string is breaking there is probably a sharp place at the nut or saddle--it must be smoothed out with a fine sandpaper. Or, if you are tuning the string too high it will break (use an electronic tuner to only tune to pitch). I cannot suggest anything about the tuners.
I was wondering if you could help me find out the problem with my guitar. It's an ESP, a few days ago i changed the strings and after i was finished my high E is giving me a weird tremolo effect, hard to explain, it just sounds real shakey and rings out weird when i play it. Is their any idea to what might be the problem? The bridge is a Tune-o-matic if that helps any ;D
Greetings. I work on nylon string guitars, I have almost no experience with electric guitars. Also, I cannot solve such problems without looking at the actual instrument.
You should contact the manufacturer or the person who sold you the guitar. Ron
Many think that a properly crowned fret is essential for good tone and intonation.
Please note that at 3:48 in the video I show the 2 crowning files I use to put a dome on the top of the frets. While the fret is slightly lower than it was originally, by "recrowning" it we recreate the necessary dome on the fret top. Recrowning the frets seems to make them easier to play than a fret with a flat top.
I have Esteve guitar set up from your work shop. (Very nice guitar / setup) for the price.
But anyway, My 1991 Jose Ramirez SP guitar (it's one of few dozen SP made from Ramirez shop) has buzzing on bass E string when I play just a bit strong. In addition when I take the finger off, it also gives longer and louder buzz than it should. Do you know what should be setup/fixed on it? If you were to take a look at it, Can I be able to take it to your shop? (I work in Irvine).
Can someone tell me how much should this cost,since some of my frets are kinda flat and it makes fret buzz....I don't want to make some adjustments by myself,I don't wanna screw something that can't be fixed later...
I cannot give you an estimate because I have to personally inspect the guitar. You should take your guitar around to 2 or 3 repair people to get an estimate. Now that you have seen how I do this work you have some an idea of what is involved. The work take 1 to 2 hours for fret dressing as I show it on a classical guitar. If the frets have to be replaced then the time is more like 3 to 5 hours. If there are problems with neck relief or neck inclination these are completely different matters.
While I have refretted 100's of classical guitars and have dressed frets on 8000 more, I have not done a lot of work on electric guitars. The basic procedure is the same but you have to first deal with neck relief, adjustment of the truss rod, and protect the bound fingerboard and fingerboard inlays. I suggest that you read the book Fret Work: Step by Step sold by Stewart-MacDonald (their item #1371). Study this and other books and videos before you attempt any work.
The diamond fret crowning files, the 2" and 3" straight edge rulers, fret guards and a small file for the fret ends are from from Stew-Mac. The fine triangle file was a Swiss file from a jewelry supply company-- I dulled the sharp corners on sandpaper so they would not damage the fingerboard.
There is a famous luthier from Madrid named Arcangel Fernandez. There is an electric/acoustic guitar factory from Japan, Fernandes Guitars (Fernandes with an "s"). I am the owner of Fernandez Music. Since the 1990's I have imported over 13,000 guitars from Spain. I started imported guitars from Spain in 1965 from great makers. I have made 3 commercial DVDs: French Polishing for Guitarmakers, Classical & Flamenco Guitarmaking with Benito Huipe and Violin Bow Rehairing with Roger Foster.
Another superb video.
RobertoStampini 1 month ago
ronfernandez: ok, I thought that one on d video had a truss road.i run a little guitar repair/set up in one of my rooms mostly electrics sometimes I get acustics and like you mentioned sometimes d buzz comes from loose braces.saddle or truss road vibrating in its channel under the fretboard.thnks for your great video im in westminster ca.would b nice to know why OVATION GUITARS usually crack at the top.
musicofz 1 month ago
@musicofz I suspect that some Ovations have a tendency to crack on the soundboard when there is low humidity because the body is too rigid to allow for the sides to move along with the shrinking of the soundboard. According to Jose Oribe's book the Fine Guitar, a spruce soundboard of a classical guitar expands across the lower bout by 3mm when the humidity changes from 25% to 95%; a western red cedar soundboard expands by 2mm.
FernandezMusic 1 month ago
hi ron: that was great tecnique to file and level d frets.another technique is to tighten the truss road all the way an then use a C clamp at the headstock with a little piece of wood in between.now clamp it and tighten the C clamp until you get the neck straight(this way you are simulating string tension on d neck in real playing position).
musicofz 2 months ago
@musicofz. Thanks. Since I deal with hand made Spanish classical and flamenco guitars that technique will not work because we do not use truss rods. The Spanish integrated neck-body construction (also called the Spanish foot method) is very strong so truss rods are unnecessary. In the Spanish method, the neck is carved, then the sides are inserted into slots in the neck, the face is added and then the back is glued on with the "foot" of the neck glued directly to the inside back of the guitar.
FernandezMusic 1 month ago
How to know when it's time to change the frets? You can't just always sand down them to equal height. Also if buying new frets which height should I consider? How does height/width of frets change the sound/playability of the guitar?
ie666death 2 months ago
@ie666death. I do not have simple answers to your questions. Your technique, string choice, and style (classical, flamenco, folkloric, jazz, etc.) and other factors somewhat determine the choice of fret wire. But, as a starting point i suggest that when you cannot get a clean sound you should show the instrument to a good professional repair person. If you measured fret height on most standard classical guitar you would find them to be about 1.5mm.
FernandezMusic 2 months ago
@FernandezMusic. So that means that it's OK to have a little wear on the frets as long as it doesn't buzz? That's just what i wanted to know , thank you!
ie666death 2 months ago
I have a dead fret on my classical guitar, its the 11th fret. Will raising the bridge slightly eliminate this problem?
craigeymac 3 months ago
@craigeymac Hi Craigeymac, I cannot diagnose the problem without seeing the guitar. However, normally the first thing I would check is whether the next fret (the 12th) is significantly higher then the 11th fret. You can do this by using a straight edge. I use a metal straight edge but you could use the edge of a credit card. Place the card's edge on the the 11th, 12th and 13th fret. If it rocks then the 12th fret is too high. In any case you should have a good repair person look at the guitar.
FernandezMusic 3 months ago
With practice on cheap guitars, the right tools and study of all the guitars you can inspect, you can learn to do this work. You can start by simply checking the levelness of 3 frets at a time up and down the neck with a small straight edge (a plastic credit card works). This video was intended as an introduction to set-up. Other important related issues are intonation, string height, nut/saddle compensation and neck relief.
FernandezMusic 3 months ago
fuck man i started out thinking "i could probably do that" but buy the end i was thinking "... this guy is a pro"
brostomper 3 months ago
Interesting and useful - but shouldn't the manufacturer do all this stuff before selling?
1950sparks 6 months ago
@1950sparks. They should but they don't. Go check the guitars at your local guitar store and you will find high and uneven frets on most of the classicals. The nut and saddle are usually set too high at the factories because the stores do not want the guitars to buzz. Generally, uneven frets are found on factory guitars but I have found then also on very expensive handmade guitars. Also it is important to realize that fret work is altered by humidity changes.
FernandezMusic 6 months ago
0:32 Bastard file LOL
koolkillax 7 months ago
@koolkillax Yes, that is what it is called. Look up the names for the various kinds of files.
FernandezMusic 7 months ago
@FernandezMusic I know. But it's just funny to see a file have that name! I was in technology once & saw it engraved on the bottom of the file. It was shocking at first until I realized it was the name of the file, but it would be abit rude to say it cause people will think you were swearing.
koolkillax 7 months ago
Although this video may be useful to some, I'd rather take my guitar to a professional.
How much do you charge?
trashfox89 8 months ago
@trashfox89 Thanks for your email. The video is not intended as a how-to-do-it video but only as an overview of some essential steps. Presently I am only working on the guitars I import and a few vintage Spanish or Portuguese instruments. There are many good luthiers around North America who can do this work. Now that you have seen the video you can speak with them about the procedure. Regards, Ron.
FernandezMusic 8 months ago
Great Video and explanation, thanks for posting !
fabianromano 8 months ago
a bastard file
connoragclarke 9 months ago 2
straight edge and fingerboard sounds wrong
filmwatcher999 9 months ago
@filmwatcher999 This is absolutely the correct way to check the levelness of 3 frets at a time. In this video I am concerned with eliminating high frets. The issue of "neck relief" is a different matter. Neck relief is a slight curvature in the neck which is necessary to reduce string buzzing. Steel string guitars usually adjust neck relief with a truss rod. For classical guitars a slight amount of neck relief is worked into the fretboard.
FernandezMusic 9 months ago
@filmwatcher999 The 3rd issue is neck inclination. A neck on a modern classical guitar does not extend parrallel to the plane of the soundboard. If a straight edge were set on the soundboard you could see that the nut is about 3 mm higher than you would expect it.
Neck relief and neck inclination are very important matters but they are beyond the scope of this little YouTube video.
FernandezMusic 9 months ago
doesn't this **** up your fretboard!?
pivotduke2 11 months ago
@pivotduke2 These are procedures used on fine classical and flamenco guitars with ebony fingerboards. If you have a steel string guitar with fingerboard binding you must protect the binding. These are not procedures for the inexperienced. These procedures should not damage the fingerboard. If you do scratch a raw rosewood or ebony fingerboard, it is s simply matter to sand between the frets with a series of sandpaper up to 2000 grit and polish with 0000 (ultra fine) grade sandpaper.
FernandezMusic 11 months ago
Thanks Sir i was thinking on leaving there my first guitar now i would like to did it what you do to feel it great again, its bad cuz in around here there's not good luthiers
waliuxD 11 months ago
@waliuxD Where are you??
FernandezMusic 11 months ago
@FernandezMusic Peru ,Lima and Arequipa
waliuxD 11 months ago
Thank you for sharing this most useful guitar information !!
mozartrosie 11 months ago
@mozartrosie Thank you for your comment. There is some related information spread through my Fernandez Music website.
FernandezMusic 11 months ago
Great video!!
suramerica 1 year ago
Thanks, it was interesting. Can you give some hints about Lute Freting?
karahan246 1 year ago
@karahan246 I have done a limited amount of work on Baroque guitars and lutes. I suggest that you looked up the Lute of America which has abundant information on European Lutes.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
If I sent you a guitar for a check up like you demonstrated in this video, what would you charge? I have a Yamaha F-310 acoustic guitar that needs some minor fixes like this and I believe you're the man for the job. Its not an expensive guitar, but it's what I learned to play on and sounds really nice so I would like it fixed up some. Let me know what you think.
Thanks!
j0hnhaney 1 year ago
@j0hnhaney . Thanks for your email. I am not dong repair work except on old Spanish built guitars or ones I import. However, there are many good repair people would understand how to do good set-up around the US and Canada. Now that you have seen what I do, you can search out a local repair person and ask them what their procedure for fret dressing is. Regards.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Great video. I have a Yamaha G-55A classical giutar and wanted to know how to lower the action on it. I'm not sure if the nut or the saddle are glued in on my guitar. Is there any other way to lower the action? And is sanding the saddle the prefered method for lowering the action?
fatrat440 1 year ago
@fatrat440 Greetings. How high are the strings right now? Measure the height of the 6th string and the 1st string at the 12th fret--measure from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string. How much bone saddle is projecting above the wood of the bridge? Do these measurements with a millimeter ruler and tell me what they are and I might be able to make a suggestion on how to proceed.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
@FernandezMusic Thanks for the response. 6th string-low E, measures 4.77mm @ 12th fret. 1st string-high E, measures 4.39mm @ 12th fret. Saddle is projecting 4.33mm @ 6th string and 3.86 @ 1st string. Your suggestions would be much appreciated. This being an inexpensive guitar I think the saddle is plastic, not bone. and it measures 1.87mm thick. Again I do not know yet if the saddle is glued in or not. I am assuming the nut is glued in place as the top is exposed
fatrat440 1 year ago
@fatrat440 You should call me at 949-856-1537 so i can explain in detail.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
I just Learnt so much...
mitchtickler 1 year ago
Great!
brauliomorrison 1 year ago
thank you very much for the video mr. RON FERNANDES
it been very help ful
ice666ful 1 year ago
@ice666ful Thank you for your comment. Where are you??
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
I tried to make my own fretboard for my homemade guitar, needless to say it turned out like crap... This time I'm going with Stewmac, hopefully this time I won't screw up.
I'm making a Les Paul Goldtop, by the way. Wish me luck!
GunsNSnakepits 1 year ago
@GunsNSnakepits It can be difficult to make your own fretboard. Please tell us what you had problems with??
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
@FernandezMusic I wasn't following your video if that's what you thought. I decided it would be a great idea just to rush it. I got a scrap piece of walnut, cut out the shape (which turned out great) then marked the slots. But instead of using a knife to mark it, I just went ahead and cut it with a saw (which wasn't even the right size) On top of that, I sanded the radius without even thinking about making it proper, and in the end it was uneven, messy, and an embarrassment honestly.
GunsNSnakepits 1 year ago
@GunsNSnakepits I thank you for sharing your experience. Experience is a great teacher. Now you have a better idea about which aspects of fretting are difficult. Your next attempt will surely benefit form this first effort. Stewart MacDonald (who sells my videos) is a good supplier to the guitarmaking community. Best regards.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Hi,
awesome video/tutorial !!!
Can u give some adviceabout a problem i have ... ?
My acoustic guitar fell down and it kicked the first E string in 12th fret,
so now there is mark in it, a cut, which bothers me since i cant do pulls on that fret now without the string stucking in the little gap ...
is there a way that i can fill that little thin cut with something and "sand it out" so that i dont need to replace the fret?
Thank you !!!
SasaYamaoka 1 year ago
@SasaYamaoka I cannot quite envision the problem. But in any case I think you should show it to an experience repair person. It does not sound like an expensive repair.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Great video to watch
SIRONEDRAGON 1 year ago
@SIRONEDRAGON Thank you, too. Ron Fernandez
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
mad skills
ickerish 1 year ago
@ickerish I think this is a compliment. Thank you.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
What a nice video. It's simple, nicely paced and informative at every stage.
Well done.
I have a personal interest in lutherie for the art of it.
eschelar 1 year ago
Ron you did a fret job for me around 18 months ago & Iam happy now I need your phone number because a friend of mine needs his guitar fix.
ernie......thanks.
ernie999666 1 year ago
@ernie999666 My phone number is at the top of my Fernandez Music Home Page
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
how much do u charge for this? i got the fret dressing/Leveling+set up here in chicago for $80 is that a rip off or a deal?
fattirevsbud 1 year ago
@fattirevsbud I only do fret dressing and set-up for the guitars i import not for the general public. I suppose $75 to $150 is a fair range of prices for fret dressing and basic set-up according to what is being done. Intonation refinement is a whole different matter. Full fret replacement is much more expensive.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
I bought a guitar, and the neck is like "warped", I have tried everything. A friend said that the neck can be replaced. Is this something very very expensive??
TechnicalFreak 1 year ago
@TechnicalFreak To REPLACE a neck or the fingerboar on a classical guitar is expensive. If the guitar does not have a truss rod sometimes the frets can be removed and then the fingerboard can be planed to remove the warp (if it is not too severe) and the frets can be replaced. I can not really help you without seeing the guitar. I suggest that you take it to a few stores/repairpeople and ask their opinion.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
I bought a 7 string not too long ago and the D string and A around the 5th-8th fret produce dead notes, you play a solo sweep or do whatever and all of a sudden you get there and nothing... any advice?
JYZProductions 1 year ago
@JYZProductions Greetings.To solve this problem you should contact the maker of the instrument. If you want to learn why an instrument has dead notes I suggest that you read/view Roger Siminoff's book and DVD the Art of Tap Tuning or the Responsive Guitar by Ervin Somogyi. If there is a neck/fret problem you should read some of the books on fret work, for example by Stewart MacDonald.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Very nice work!!!
Gainward17 1 year ago
that looks pretty easy... can i do same method for electric guitar?
zami0969 1 year ago
@zami0969. The basic principles are the same but with an electric guitar you have to deal with a truss rod and a radiussed (not flat) fingerboard. Also, some electrics have lacquered fingerboards which must be protected; you have to be very careful about getting steel wool or sanding grit into the pick-ups. You should read Dan Erlewine' s and Hideo Kamimoto's book on guitar repair before working on your electric.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
I thought this presantation was wonderful. I have most of the tools and am lucky to help out on a CNC prima lazer for cutting profiles on meta.lThiswill help me make the safty guard for the frets. My classical guitar buzzes sometimes when i play and it freaks me out. Especially when i have worked hard practicing on a peice only to be let down by the tone and the buzzes. All the best GGSNI.
ColinBurnside 1 year ago
@ColinBurnside There are many reasons for buzzes--bad strings, high frets, neck relief problems, loose braces, etc. My video shows only how to correct uneven frets (where some fret is too high compared to another). i did not go into issues of proper neck relief, neck inclination, warped or twisted neck--these are involved matters which should be handled by a professional. Perhaps the most important thing here is to learn to check the levelness of fret height--such unevenness is very common.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Excellent!!!!!!!!!
ClubDeTiroNalon 1 year ago
Thank-You for posting this. The care & pride you take in your work is quite obvious. This is an art form.
rjsmuzik 1 year ago
Thanks........... this was very interesting.
leobluesy 1 year ago
that dude could set my guitar up anytime!!
PHMI16 1 year ago
"So I bang it in"
ElCuatro1991 1 year ago
I use a longer abrasive block (eg box section alu) for dressing the frets to ensure final flatness. I like your protective "bibs". You cover essential details to regarding sound and action. It is a fine guitar maker who can get the fretting right first time without the slightest buzz!
Woodomain 1 year ago
@Woodomain
Thanks for your comment. There are many ways to dress frets. A longer abrasive block can be useful in many situations. I think that the important thing is to check the quality/accuracy of your work with something like a straight edge across 3 frest. This little video is merely an overview, it is not intended to be a complete course on fret dressing, it was originally intended to show the care we take with the guitars we distribute.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
ahhh!
the guitar forced naked at 1:27~
ParaheIhero 1 year ago
prefessional work dude!
beautifullllll
0adireita 1 year ago
@0adireita pro
0adireita 1 year ago
hi is this process the same for electric guitars??
stewartmcwilliams 1 year ago
@stewartmcwilliams
Electric guitars have some different issues: the radiused fingerboard, the adjustment of the truss rod, whether the fingerboard is lacquered and has to be protected with masking tape, whether there is an outside binding of the fretboard. I suggest that you watch all of the video on fretting steel string and electric guitars-- there are certainly things which I have missed mentioning.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
From cihad2003: when do you use the hammer and when are you sanding it?
i mean whats the diffrerent between these techniques
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
@FernandezMusic
This is a good question. The simple answer is you learn by experience. The way I think of it is that I try first to hammer the fret in and then I check it with a straight edge across 3 frets. If the hammering did not work I look at the fret slot from the side to see whether the fret slot was sawed deeply enough. If I determine that I cannot hammer the fret in deep enough I sand the fret. I continually check my work with a small straight edge. I hope this helps.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
thank you very much
belhajilyas 1 year ago
Lol
Congratulations .. 7:55 min to make on guitar .. i try this at home !!
psycho6630 1 year ago
@psycho6630 (Why Lol?)
While my video is less than 8 minutes the actual process takes about 1 hour. The proper tools (diamond crowning files, etc.) are $300 to $400. Please note that my techniques are for nylon string guitars with flat (not radiussed) fingerboards. Classical guitar fingerboards have no inlays and no lacquer finish on them. Unlike some acoustic guitars, there are no edge bindings. Re-checking levelness with a straight edge throughout the process is very important.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
@FernandezMusic i just kidding .. i know .. it's hard work to do that guitar .
psycho6630 1 year ago
Thank you so much for sharing your expertise.
LorenzoC1980 1 year ago
hey sir...is it possible to change the nut of my guitar with a floyd rose nut?? well my guitar is a strat squirer? anyways...how to change the nut?
weaponx29 1 year ago
@weaponx29
Greetings, I specialize in nylon string guitars and I have little practical experience with repairing or modifying electric guitars. I suggest that you contact YouTube video sites which deal specifically with electric guitars.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
@weaponx29 you can but the safe way would to keep the nut you have now and put the locking nut just behind that one. If there isn't room then make sure that you DO NOT cut into the fingerboard, cut in from the nut slot back towards the headstock, you will in intonate right if you do
avhcbeaver2 1 year ago
@avhcbeaver2 hey i already aligned the frets..but some strings are muted and some has fret buzz....should i change the nut or not?
weaponx29 1 year ago
@weaponx29 it depends on where they're buzzing, if they're buzzing on the 1st threw 5th fret then its most likely the nut. if it's buzzing else where then trying adjusting your bridge and or neck tention. if you have never adjusted a truss rod before go to someone who has or at least remember to not turn more then 1/4 of a turn at a time.
avhcbeaver2 1 year ago
@avhcbeaver2 uhm sir...the fret buzz would be at the 1st to the 5th fret...i guess the problem is the nut huh?? should i replace it? or not?
weaponx29 1 year ago
@weaponx29 either replace it or you can raise it up to stop the buzz
avhcbeaver2 1 year ago
@avhcbeaver2 i think i will replace it..but how?? should i buy another nut or replace it with a locking nut?
weaponx29 1 year ago
@weaponx29 you can replace it with a locking nut but you'll have to modify your guitar, it would be a good idea to take it to a pro at this point. but if you want to do it yourself just remember that if you cut into the fret board towards the bridge you wont be able to intonate correctly.
avhcbeaver2 1 year ago
@avhcbeaver2 yeah...thx
]
weaponx29 1 year ago
hey sir...im now aligning my guitar frets(on my squire strat) is it ok to use carbon paper to align the frets??
weaponx29 1 year ago
My video shows how I work on nylon string guitars which have unfinished fingerboards which do not have a radius as does your electric guitar. These guitars do not have truss rods. Your situation is different. Before you work on the frets you have to consider whether the neck relief has been properly adjusted with the truss rod. You have to protect the wood of the fingerboard (probably with masking tape) and you have to consider the radius in the fingerboard.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Before you try to work on your electric guitar and damage the frets and the fingerboard I suggest that you read some books on fretting such as those sold by Stewart MacDonald. Regards
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Very very well done! I have a Saga guitar kit and the neck has a bow (in the wrong direction!) boy am in in for job. But I am learning quickly. I am going to make this $100 dollar guitar play if it kills me. haha
ONESNZER0S 1 year ago
I like your determination. There is nothing like experimentation and mistakes.
When I made my first mandolin I also made a case. I put the latches on upside down. It worked but it was inconvenient. I showed the instrument and case to an old Spanish trained luthier and he said, " You'll never do that again."
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Does that improve the playing of the guitar ???.. I have a cheap Squier mini ( travel guitar .. on which i update everything ( bridge , p-u , tuners etc..) but still i found the neck not that smooth to play , the fret are big comparing to my u.s strat . the frets are big and round in shape .. would a fret dressing help it on my little squier ?the guy who set it told me i was the action is as low as i can go . Would a fret dress help for the better action ?? i wanna play low action
artifact26 1 year ago
It is not possible for me to evaluate your particular guitars without seeing it in person. My general comments would be that if you have some high frets, or low and high spots on some frets this procedure will help. By smoothing the frets the guitar will be easier to play. By refining the fret edges the guitar neck will be more comfortable. If you have neck inclination or neck relief issues this procedure will not solve them.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Excellent teaching and presentation. Very clear and instructive. Thank you.
TheSmartAdvisor 1 year ago
This is a pretty good video. Is this mainly to be done on new guitars? It seems a topic that was missed is the general straightness of the neck, though I suppose on classical guitars the lower string tension will not warp a neck like steel strings. But isn't that something that you should check for?
jcline6542 1 year ago
I do this work on new and used guitars. I chose not to get into the matters of straightness, neck relief and neck inclination because they are too involved for this short format--I wanted to focus on how frets are dressed. Such neck/fingerboard repairs deserve extensive attention. If you are generally interested in how classical guitars are put together you should watch my 3 hour DVD, Classical and Flamenco Guitarmaking with Benito Huipe. There you will see many things left out of this video.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Well, I have learned a bit by watching you, and I appreciate the video. It seems you are really good at dressing frets and use your time efficiently, I tend to take way too long doing fret work. I like how you polished the frets with a rotary tool; its much more efficient than using my hands.
I am glad there are people like you making videos. There are some other videos on the net that aren't very good.
Thx for the response to my question. :)
jcline6542 1 year ago
For anyone without a Dremel tool, a satisfactory method to polish frets is to go through a series of sand papers 320, 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500 and 0000 (4 zero grade) steel wool. If the fingerboard is a simple ebony or rosewood fingerboard on a classical you can do this without masking tape or a fret protector. If the fingerboard is inlaid and has binding on the edge then you will probably want to use masking tape so you only work on the fret surface and not the fingerboard.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
did you ever go to school for lutherie you very smart and you know what you are doing
azfryguy 1 year ago
Thanks for the compliment. In 1965 I started to imported Jose Ramirez guitar from Spain with my father. From that time I had opportunities to observe many great Spanish makers. In the 1980's I was supplying soundboard wood to Spanish makers. At that time I made a mandolin from a book. I taught myself French Polishing and then was tutored by a master French cabinet makers. By the 1990's I was importing Spanish guitars full time and needed to learn to do repairs.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
In 1994 I spent 2 months making a video with Benito Huipe on making guitars with hand tools. Through the 90's I visited the Esteve, Sanchis and Mervi workshops in Madrid and shops in Granada, Cordoba and Madrid. In 2000 I finally attended a luthery school for 10 days and learned techniques of Kenny Hill. My membership in the Guild of American Luthiers has given me the opportunity to speak with and observe American and Canadian Luthiers. For 2 decades I also have visited makers in Portugal.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Everyday I do repairs on fretted instruments. My knowledge is based on practical experience, reading and observation of others.
If you are interested in guitar building or repair I suggest that you read all the old issues of the American Lutherie, read Cumpiano's book Guitarmaking, and then get a kit from Stew-Mac or Luthiers Mercantile's catalogs and assemble/finish an instrument. Try to repair cheap instruments. Find a school or luthier who teaches. Learn by doing.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Many years ago I used masking tape. I found that it did not protect the fingerboard from small cuts made by the triangle file used for beveling the end of the frets nor by the small rectangle shaped filed used to smooth the corner of the frets. Since masking tape could easily be cut by the files I decided to smoothed the edges of the files and also improved my technique. The diamond crowning files are no threat to the fingerboard. Paying careful attention to the job is the best safety method.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Why do you not protect the fngrboard when doing all that aggressive filing?
cast390 1 year ago
Please remember that my video is about classical guitars which have a simple ebony or rosewood fingerboard, not about steel string guitars which often have binding on the edge of the fingerboard, ornamentation or even a lacquer finish. In the video I do use a thin metal fretboard guard at certain points. If you are doing work on an ornamented fingerboard you might want to use masking tape. I do not know of any experienced luthier in Spain using masking tape for these operations.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
My video is how I actually do the work. It is not a comprehensive course. I have done this operation on more than 8,000 guitars and I am experienced in these operations. The 3 corner file I use has been dulled on the 3 edges to prevent damage to the end of the fingerboard. This is a common luthier's tool which can be made or bought over the counter from luthier supply houses. Also, since the classical fingerboard is raw wood it is simple to sand or repair with ebony dust and super glue.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Hey has anyone here heard of the American guitarist Lawson Rollins? I have both his albums, Infinita and Espirito. He is amazing. The very reason I picked up a classical guitar again after 24yrs of not playing! You can see his videos on youtube playing Fire Cadenza. Anyway, the action on his guitar is very low. I think he also uses high tension strings the achieve this. Would I be right in thinking this?
ianrkav 1 year ago
I do not know what strings Rollins uses and it would be nice to find out. While the tension of the strings is a important factor in string height there are a few others such as the neck inclination, the amount of neck relief, the right hand technique of the player, saddle height AND the stiffness of the lower bout of the soundboard. Stiffness is largely a result of the inherent quality of the wood, thickness of the top, amount of doming, and height and placement of braces.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Yes, there really is a lot of things to consider when setting up a guitar! I know the guitar Rollins uses is a Pedro Maldonado, of Spain. Now to find out his set-up:-)
ianrkav 1 year ago
Hey good point! I'll do that later:-)
ianrkav 1 year ago
Just AMAZING!
mangulo06 1 year ago
Hi. I'm interested in your comments concerning saddle set up. At 5:54 on you mention that the high edge should be toward the sound hole. I received a new classical guitar today and the low edge is towards the sound hole! Should I reverse this? If I do the the low end of the length wise slant will be at the 6th or low E string. Is this correct? Also, 6th string, 7th fret. How high in mm should the string be from the fret? Mine is 5mm! I feel this is too high. What do you think?
Thanks.
ianrkav 1 year ago
You cannot simply reverse the saddle. You probably need a new saddle. We typically measure the string height at the 12th fret. For a classical guitar, measuring from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string, the gap should be about 4mm for the 6th string (12th fret) and 3mm for the 1st string (12th fret). While these measurements are widely regarded as standard by guitar technicians some players like them a little higher or lower.
FernandezMusic 1 year ago
Ok thanks for your reply. This has been a great help to me. I now know my action is a bit too high.
Thanks.
ianrkav 1 year ago
I'm SERIOUSLY interested in becoming a Luthier,can i buy the proper books/videos online,or would one have to attend a class in person is "hands on" absolutely necessary?,don't know of any in Southern Calif.Thanx.
im5150247 2 years ago
First of all, join the Guild of American Luthiers in Tacoma. Read all the back issue of their journa--American Lutherie. Contact the the Southern California Association of Luthiers..Read all the books, view all of the videos (including mine, of course). Try your hand at assembling a guitar kit from Stewart MacDonald or Luthiers Mercantile International. Attend courses around the country. Try to make some instruments from scratch from the many books. Experiment. Build instruments. Get to it.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
I cannot properly advise you without seeing the guitar--there are too many considerations. For example, whether the nut is glued in or not; whether you know how to loosen it without damage to the guitar. Also do you have the right tools to do the job--do you have good files, feeler gauges or micrometer for checking string height. Is this a cheap or an expensive guitar. I suggest that you show the guitar to someone with experience who can give you first hand advise. Good luck.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
Ok thanks for the clarification. What I am ultimately wanting to do is lower the action closer to the nut. I have researched two different ways to go about this... 1.) Taking the nut off and sanding it down slightly from the bottom. 2.) Filing down the string grooves a bit so they sit in the nut a bit lower. I am leaning more towards option one. Any input would be appreciated.
ed0985587 2 years ago
do the same concepts described in your video only apply for classic guitar or can the same methods be used on standard acoustic guitars as well?
ed0985587 2 years ago
The basic principles are the same but you also have to deal with the fact that on a steel string guitar the fingerboard has a radius whereas on a classical guitar the fingerboard is essentially flat (with a little neck relief). Also steel string guitars usually have a truss rod to adjust the neck relief. On a classical guitar the neck relief is planed into the fingerboard and/or a result of the pull of the strings. Perhaps other viewers could help us by mentioning other differences.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
When you use the sand paper to level the frets, how hard are you pressing down?
guitardbucket 2 years ago
Perhaps the most important point in the video is the use of the straight edge to check the levelness of the frets. If the frets are level no dressing is needed. if a single fret is high it may be possible to pound it in. If several frets are SLIGHTLY high then light sanding pressure may be sufficient. If the many frets are quite high and cannot be pounded in then more sanding or pressure may be needed. You must CONTINUALLY check your work with the straight edge.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
how do you handle a slight pull up of the bridge? .003....is that enough to warrant a reglue of the bridge?
kd8ux 2 years ago
I think you should have the bridge glued down. It is only going to get worse. This is a simple job for any experienced repair person who has the right clamps. If it is not an expensive guitar you might consult some guitar repair books and try it yourself. Stewart McDonald and Luthiers Mercantile International sell books which could help you.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
I got a new orpheus valley fiesta fc classical guitar two days ago. When I press the frets on the D and A string it buzzes. It's weird cuz when I don't press the fret real hard then i get a normal sound, but when I press it hard i get a buzz... do you know what the problem is?
botdj 2 years ago
I do not know what the problem is. If you bought it from a store you should have them take a look at it.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
hey amm its posible to change the size of the frets ona electric guitar without changing the neck??
Mons8a 2 years ago
I cannot answer your question without personally seeing your guitar. Since I only work on nylon string guitars I suggest that you take your guitar to a good repairperson who works on electric guitars.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
oo ok thancks dude
Mons8a 2 years ago
thats a doctor
reynanr 2 years ago
YouTube GOLD. Thanks Ron.
Happy New Year mate.
moosey62 2 years ago
terrific - thanks!
bassdocta 2 years ago
have you evr gloss guitar?
roberthlubnaomi 2 years ago
Hi Robert. I do not understand your comment. Please state your question in other words. Are you trying to ask if I finish guitars? I do finish guitars with shellac using a French Polish technique which is explained in my DVD, French Polishing for Guitarmakers.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
Sorry thats what people usually ask.. But yes do you do any finishes? Make it look shiny and glossy?
roberthlubnaomi 2 years ago
I do French Polish Finishing on flamenco and classical guitars which have a shellac finish. I do not do nitrocellulose finishes and I do not do catalyzed lacquer finishes which are the type on 99% of modern guitars.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
what are those liquid call? Gloss? I never know what they are call.
roberthlubnaomi 2 years ago
Nitrocellulose lacquer, Oil Varnish, polyacrylic "lacquer", polyurethane, water based "lacquer, shellac, seedlac. I only work with shellac and seedlac. You can find extensive information by looking up guitar finishes on the internet.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
one more qeustion, how do you paint the guitar back neck?
roberthlubnaomi 2 years ago
I do not paint the back of the neck because I only work on classical guitars--I do not use paint at all. Makers of electric guitars do use paint you should ask someone who does that kind of work. You can look at the website of Stewart MacDonald.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
Oh wow, what kind of model guitar is that? Mine has the SAME tuning machine plates, as well as the machines themselves. Mine is a Kremona Orpheus Valley Granada built in Bulgaria. The video was interesting, always nice to know how to do it if needed.
edito777 2 years ago
It is an Esteve 7 made in Spain. The present Esteve 7 has different tuners. I have been importing Esteve guitars since the early 1990's. I have imported 13,000 guitars from Spain and I have set-up and dressed the frets on the last 8,000 of these guitars. I also import guitars of Juan Hernandez, Manuel Adalid, Vicente Sanchis and Felix Manzanero. In the mid-1960's my family and I imported guitars from Miguel Rodriguez, Jose Ramirez, Arcangel Fernandez, Juan Alvarez and Manuel de la Chica.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
Fantastic video. This is great information for me. I am building my own experimental guitars, and I know nothing about fret work. The only thing i dont' have is a crowning file, but i'll just do what I can for now. Thanks!
FranticRock 2 years ago
i just visited the local music store and turns out i hadnt attached the string correctly to the saddle. apparently it should be turned three times around itself to hold. i turned only twice, which caused it to snap off when i tuned it! thanks for the tips
vzerli1 2 years ago
hi i just changed strings on my Yamaha C-40, and now the top E string keeps breaking when i try to tune it! i also noticed that the tuning peg felt real loose.. appreciate any help
vzerli1 2 years ago
If the string is breaking there is probably a sharp place at the nut or saddle--it must be smoothed out with a fine sandpaper. Or, if you are tuning the string too high it will break (use an electronic tuner to only tune to pitch). I cannot suggest anything about the tuners.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
I was wondering if you could help me find out the problem with my guitar. It's an ESP, a few days ago i changed the strings and after i was finished my high E is giving me a weird tremolo effect, hard to explain, it just sounds real shakey and rings out weird when i play it. Is their any idea to what might be the problem? The bridge is a Tune-o-matic if that helps any ;D
LewisTaylorRules08 2 years ago
Greetings. I work on nylon string guitars, I have almost no experience with electric guitars. Also, I cannot solve such problems without looking at the actual instrument.
You should contact the manufacturer or the person who sold you the guitar. Ron
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
Does the shape of the frets have any effect on the sound? Because they are flatter ofcourse than before dressing the frets.? Thank you.
GetnFunky 2 years ago
Many think that a properly crowned fret is essential for good tone and intonation.
Please note that at 3:48 in the video I show the 2 crowning files I use to put a dome on the top of the frets. While the fret is slightly lower than it was originally, by "recrowning" it we recreate the necessary dome on the fret top. Recrowning the frets seems to make them easier to play than a fret with a flat top.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
Hi Mr. Fernandez,
I have Esteve guitar set up from your work shop. (Very nice guitar / setup) for the price.
But anyway, My 1991 Jose Ramirez SP guitar (it's one of few dozen SP made from Ramirez shop) has buzzing on bass E string when I play just a bit strong. In addition when I take the finger off, it also gives longer and louder buzz than it should. Do you know what should be setup/fixed on it? If you were to take a look at it, Can I be able to take it to your shop? (I work in Irvine).
gatsbi007 2 years ago
Hi. Call me at 949-856-1537 and we can discuss the matter. Ron
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
Thank you for the response!
Will call during the next week.
gatsbi007 2 years ago
Can someone tell me how much should this cost,since some of my frets are kinda flat and it makes fret buzz....I don't want to make some adjustments by myself,I don't wanna screw something that can't be fixed later...
shomilood 2 years ago
I cannot give you an estimate because I have to personally inspect the guitar. You should take your guitar around to 2 or 3 repair people to get an estimate. Now that you have seen how I do this work you have some an idea of what is involved. The work take 1 to 2 hours for fret dressing as I show it on a classical guitar. If the frets have to be replaced then the time is more like 3 to 5 hours. If there are problems with neck relief or neck inclination these are completely different matters.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
Muy bonita guitarra! Quiero una! :-)
iloveyoujules 2 years ago
would this work for a les paul guitar??
kdr120893 2 years ago
While I have refretted 100's of classical guitars and have dressed frets on 8000 more, I have not done a lot of work on electric guitars. The basic procedure is the same but you have to first deal with neck relief, adjustment of the truss rod, and protect the bound fingerboard and fingerboard inlays. I suggest that you read the book Fret Work: Step by Step sold by Stewart-MacDonald (their item #1371). Study this and other books and videos before you attempt any work.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
Are you used Stew Mac tools in this video ?
NuclearBanjo 2 years ago
The diamond fret crowning files, the 2" and 3" straight edge rulers, fret guards and a small file for the fret ends are from from Stew-Mac. The fine triangle file was a Swiss file from a jewelry supply company-- I dulled the sharp corners on sandpaper so they would not damage the fingerboard.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago
Thank you very much for your response & video .Add to favorited : )
NuclearBanjo 2 years ago
Is this a video from the real world famous Fernandez guitar Luther's shop?
sweetbilly 2 years ago
There is a famous luthier from Madrid named Arcangel Fernandez. There is an electric/acoustic guitar factory from Japan, Fernandes Guitars (Fernandes with an "s"). I am the owner of Fernandez Music. Since the 1990's I have imported over 13,000 guitars from Spain. I started imported guitars from Spain in 1965 from great makers. I have made 3 commercial DVDs: French Polishing for Guitarmakers, Classical & Flamenco Guitarmaking with Benito Huipe and Violin Bow Rehairing with Roger Foster.
FernandezMusic 2 years ago