Part 2. How to properly charge an auto AC R134a refrigerant air conditioning system.

[sickst33l]

Isn't that a valve at the manifold for yellow line so you can purge????

[gibhvac]

Are you sure it's ok to leave the suction side open when you are purging the air from the yellow hose that would be in the yellow hose between switching cans. It seems to me the suction line being open or on would pull outside air into the system when doing so. The correct way for charging method on a residential AC system. Is to purge the yellow charging hose with both low and high sides closed, slightly loosen hose at manifold until vapor is present from the hose, tighten hose, and from there

[00Kaporal]

I wanted to ask if anyone knows, what would make your auto ac alum hose freeze up?

[00Kaporal]

Mikecarter79

I'm new here & I'm hoping to help me out.

I have a 2001 dodge durango, 4x4 5.9l, I was told to change the exp. value.

I hooked up the manifold gauge after 5min the low reads 50psi high at 420psi

at 2000rpm low at 35 & high at 375, temp at vent 66d outside temp 95d.

with this info. does it tell you if any other part needs to be replaced?

thanks for your help..

[vaINZANE]

thank you.

[jumar1281]

if you never turn on the high pressure side, why does it even need to be connected? i am about to do this in my car, and only planning to buy the oil, 2 cans of freon and the hose that will connect it to the low pressure side. this should be sufficient right? or do i need to buy this whole setup you're using?

[BiteDoctor]

your vid cleared up a few doubts i had. thnx for posting!

[83Hotgears]

Mike, thx for the video.very useful info. I do have a question for you on my 97 grand prix gtp. I have been looking into fixing my ac but not sure what or where to start to fix it. The only thing I can think of is... The clutch on my compressor is not engaging. Maybe the compressor is no good, or it be that it will not turn on cause of having low pressure in the system? Or should I just charge it and see if the clutch will engage to fix. L

[txpkrdad]

@83Hotgears

First thing in your situation i would do is jump wire the low pressure cutoff switch...You can do a google search for how to do this and this will tell you if you compressor clutch is not engaging because of a faulty switch,low on coolant or if the clutch is bad on the ac compressor itself.

[hotroddfalcon]

Dude. Read the can.

[womackke]

Is that not a schrader bleeder valve on the yellow tube just below the guage manifold. seems like a couple of pushes on that would be an easier way to bleed the tube if it is

[hotbigger]

harbor freight bullshit is too confusing just use the professional shit , soo much easier

[aman450r]

hi, i am an AC tech, but as you know 134a is different then r-22 , r 410 etc, what are the proper temperature and pressures that a car should be running at? on the high and on the low, and also when charging and checking pressure do you need to have the fan on full blast or on midddle speed, also what should be the temperature difference betweeen ambient air and the temperature on your high side of the guage, ,and what should be the temp difference betwwen your return air and supply air? thanks

[hotroddfalcon]

Start listening to the instructions at 0:21. And turn your can upside down and shake~~~~

[mikecarter79]

@hotroddfalcon yes, this is another good method of getting as FREON as possable out of the can and into your system. Brave....thank you

[mikecarter79]

@mikecarter79 Brave=Bravo !!

[womackke]

So is this how you remove the refridgerant prior to disconnecting the compressor (and after) or is there something more to it

[endurocatfish]

hey mike i got a 76 lincoln thats a/c system was run on freon since its illegal in the usa now i need to use r134a or something else. can i run r134a in the old systems with no conversions? im putting new lines in it since i think they leak anyways

[opsvideo2008]

@mikecarter79 Thanks for your video and your explaination. It is informative and helpful to the DIY-er.

[texasthojp]

Hi Mike,

I need to pick your brain. I'm working on a 99 ranger with an aftermarket AC. It has a Sanden 508 style compressor with universal condensor, evaporator, condenser, H style expansion valve, and so on. I have fixed the leaks it has, replaced the rubber hoses, o-rings, pulled a 29 mm/hg of vacuum and recharged the system to 24 ounces. It cools, but no where near as well as it should. At 100F ambient, the low side is at 47 psi and high side 260 psi. Do I need one more lb of R-134? Thanks..

[mikecarter79]

@texasthojp Since you are dealing with an aftermarket AC system, I will give you my opinion, but please make your own decision. I think you are correct, and that you should add an additional 1/2 to full can. You have a high ambient of 100F, and I will assume 50% humidity. At these conditions, you should have approx. 43psi Low side and 360psi on High side. The 260psi you are reading is too low for 100F ambient. These numbers will flucuate some when fan turns on, expansion valve adjusts, etc.

[mikecarter79]

@mikecarter79 The 43/360 Low/High psi should be measured with the engine running(idle) at 2000 rpm. If you can achieve numbers like this with the addition of more R134a, your center air duct temp should be around 73 deg F. Doesn't sound cold, but these are the numbers you should be getting when your outside ambient is a whopping 100F !! If your humidity is higher than 50%, your Low/High psi's will increase slightly and center air duct temp will be a few degrees higher than 73F.

[gtuani]

@mikecarter79

but mike i think he has to consider looking at the sight glass. if there is no bubbles then that tells you its full. i think that he should consider looking at here first! because its tricky to figure out if it needs more refrigerant by comparing the pressure/temperature. we all know that there is a relationship in pressure/temperature. so not all the time we will get the same reading. chances are,you will end up overcharging it which is the worst thing..

[higpicker]

Hi Mike,

Not sure if the last post went through as I had an error message so I am reposting.

I took the compressor off (3 times now) and after talking to a guy at the parts store, refilled it to 4.5 ounces. just short of the 4.9 capacity chart. I don't want to blow a seal, but then again, don't want to take it off for the 4th time...! it's pulling a vacuum now and was hoping to charge it later tonight...

Mike

[mikecarter79]

@higpicker You have to take into consideration how much oil is still left in your system from before. If you added 4.5 ozs, I would just go ahead and leave it that way. If you have too much oil, the system will still run, it just may not run as efficiently. When you pull the vacumm, I would recommend leaving the vacumm gauge on for an hour or so after you shut off the vacumm pump. Then make sure the gauge continues to show this vacumm. This will tell you that you don't have any leaks.

[mikecarter79]

@mikecarter79 Also, did you turn the compress over by hand to work the oil through the pistons? This is important, as the pistons will be dry from sitting in the junkyard so long.

[higpicker]

Hi Mike, thanks for the reply.

Then you don't think that the compressor should have 4.9 ounces of oil in it? ... I was going off of the capacities table which I found online. You can check it out at

I just took the compressor back off and added more oil (to 4.5 ounces) but have not done anything as of yet. It's pulling a vacuum now... still hoping to get it running tonight!

Mike

[higpicker]

Hi, very nice but I have a question. When replacing a compressor I read that you just drain the old one and put in that same amount to the new. However, when draining the old I got less than 1/2 ounce out. My chart indicates that I need 4.9 ounces in the compressor. I'm not sure which direction to follow. Any idea's? It's on a 96 camry. New receiver/drier and replacing a frozen compressor with one from the junkyard.

[mikecarter79]

@higpicker Here is what I would do in this situation. I would take the used compressor, put in 5 ozs of oil on a workbench, turn the compressor by hand 20 times clockwise and then 20 times counter-clockwise. This will pre-lube and clean the compressor pistons. Then empty it out and put in 2 ozs of fresh oil and install on car. Also measure & replace any oil that was in old receiver/dryer. Would be best to have system flushed by proffessional to remove any debris, but this can be a bit expensive

[gtuani]

@higpicker

oh, be smart men! you probably lost the oil on the old compressor.. thats because maybe you had a leak on the seals or somewhere else. so that is one reason! if not then i will think that the chart you are looking at is an aftermarket chart. or is it the manufacturer recommendation? i think you had a leak! thats why

[keithnra]

nice clip

[RonFelix]

I think I screwed up. I bought what I thought was a 10 ounce can of refrigerant and loaded it into my A/C system only to find out that it was PAG 100 oil. I'm as dumb as a rock for not reading the can a little better but I swear I thought it was refrigerant. Did I kill my A/C system? Is there anything that I can do at this point? It's for a 1994 Chevy Silverado. It's full of oil and still no refrigerant. You can give me hell for doing this but I really need some help. Thanks.

[ritmotraveler]

Can't you just use the relief valve to let out freon instead of unscrewing your intake valve, yellow hose.

[UrbexNW]

Actually, if your system is evacuated, you only need to use the gauges on your very last can.

You know that each can is 12oz. so if your system holds 3 lbs 2 oz. You can dump the first can as liquid into vacuum with the compressor off. The remaining three cans can then be added as liquid and you have 3 lbs of charge in the system, or 96% of spec capacity by weight.

[smcm080169]

Thanks Mike for your quick reply.

[smcm080169]

Thank you Mike. In regards to the oil, any refrigerant oil will work? i have 83 cutlass supreme

[mikecarter79]

@smcm080169 No. If your AC system is still R12, and has not been converted to R134a, you have to use R12 compatible mineral oil. For Cutlass Supreme, my document only goes back to 1985. An 85 Cutlass, for example, calls for 52 oz of R12 and 8 oz of mineral oil for compressor lubrication.

[smcm080169]

1. Do I need to add refrigerant oil every time i vaccuum the A/C system?

2. If I have all the quipment to perform vaccum on my A/C system, Can I do vacuum every year? Thanks

[mikecarter79]

@smcm080169

1. No. When you vacumm your AC system, you will only loose trace amounts of oil during the process. The oil usually settles in low places like the receiver/dryer and compressor, so very little of it gets sucked out of the service ports during vacuum. As a precaution though, I usually will add 1/2 oz of oil to my AC systems after a vacuum.

[mikecarter79]

@mikecarter79

2. Yes you can, but I would not advise doing this. Theoretically, your AC system is a "closed" system, and would only require a vacumm when system is worked on and is opened to the outside atmosphere. To do this every year would also be a lot of work and somewhat expensive. You would need to discharge all the refrigerant(which is still good) and then spend money on new refrigerant. If you are happy with the AC output, I would recommend leaving it alone.

[squizzoo]

Timcat100:

"Putting that little can in hot water is wrong. Holding the can upright does not allow the additives to flow...go ahead run your comppressor drie from oil. IDIOT"

You had better tell the manufacturers because it clearly states in bold letters do not turn the can upside down until it is almost empty. Besides, if the system already has enough oil and the compressor has 8 OZ of PAG oil, you DO NOT USE R134A with oil or you will oil drown the system and ruin it. You doofus.

[squizzoo]

Mike thanks for your great help and answer to my question.

When I first posted the question it was 101F outside so I think that is why the pressure was jumping up and down so fast on both sides.

Today, it is 85 and the low and high side are slowly going up and down and when the low dropped to 20 the clutch cycled off as it should.

It looks like super high outside temps really strain the AC system.

I am not used to super cold AC and a new compressor that runs so quiet you cannot even hear it.

[spelunkerd]

Thanks, Mike.

[squizzoo]

Mike, a question.

I replaced the FS10 compressor, accumulator, and orifice valve on my truck.

Everything works fine but when I hooked the manifold gauge set it reads 35, goes to 45, then drops back down to 35. While that is happening the high pressure gauge is doing the opposite going from 200 to 250. I know the pressures are correct but should they be rising and dropping on both sides? The clutch is engaged while this is happening. I read one article where that was normal. Is it?

Thanks

[mikecarter79]

@squizzoo Yes, this is normal. The high pressure will rise while the compressor is engaged, and then fall when it dis-engages. There are 2 things at play with the High/Low sides of your system. The high side controls an electric fan that kicks on at 250psi. This draws more air through condensor, thus cooling the charge and reducing pressure. In your case the high pressure switch is turning OFF the fan at about 200psi. Then the cycle continues. The Low side has a switch as well, which contols..

[mikecarter79]

@mikecarter79 ...the compressor cycling. The switch contacts are closed at 45 psi, and as long as it has that much, the a/c clutch should engage when you request a/c at the Controls. Those contacts remain closed until the gas leaving the Evaporator drops to 25 psi. At that number, they open up and power is cut to the compressor. The whole idea behind the condensor fan and Low pressure switch is to TRY to maintain semi-constant pressures. but this is impossable, so what you are seeing is normal

[jason10785]

Oh and liquid refrigerant can be added to the system after a vac as most systems have accumulators. Also dumping liquid in the high side is perfectly acceptable and quicker!

[mikecarter79]

@jason10785 Correct. You can add liquid refrigerant to the High side. but only on an AC system that is vacummed or extremely low on refrigerant. NEVER attempt to add refrigerant in a system that is at normal operating pressures though. The High side has pressures at around 300psi, and this will burst a can of refrigerant.

[puppieeeee]

Instead of cracking the yellow line to bleed atmosphere out, couldn't you vacuum out the yellow line after puncturing the can but before opening the valve on the can? Isn't that what the tee on the manifold is for?

[mikecarter79]

@puppieeeee No. The yellow line can only be connected to one thing at a time, either the vacumm pump or refrigerant can. The only way to expell the atmosphere is to hook up your refrigerant can first, pressurize the line with R134a(or R12), bleed small amount out at the gauge by loosening the yellow line connection, then re-tighten. Also, the High and Low valve knobs on the gauge must be closed or "Off" while performing this.

[puppieeeee]

@mikecarter79 I tried it, you can have the yellow line connected to the can of r134 and connect another line to the tee located right at the manifold gauge that the yellow line is also connected to. I had a ball valve on that line. Connect the can and hose, connect a hose/valve to the tee, pump down, closed the valve and then open the can. I guess if you don't have another hose or valve, you can bleed off the r134 with the tire valve at the tee. Anyhow, thanks for the video, so helpful!

[moranerick99]

hey was wondering about how many cans do i add to a 98 honda prelude.

[mikecarter79]

@moranerick99 The chart I have calls for a total of 26.5 oz of R-134a refrigerant, and 4.5 oz of PAG-46 oil for your car.

[layedbackkustomz]

you guys are both right first off you can use hot water to raise the pressure the can is to be held upright and moved from 12 o clock to 3 o clock. Do not put the 134+ in upside down. once the can is empty then your suppose to turn the can upside down to put the additives that are in the can into the system. by not adding the additives you risk the chance of not properly lubricating you compresser which can lead to failure. so if you all read what each other has wrote you guy are both right.

[gxryd3r]

you're making it more confusing as you go along. the first video is done right. thanks.

[timcat100]

You are the idiot. The additives are supposed to be installed as well. What do use suppose the liquid collector is for. That big tin can on the suction side of the comppressor. The freon turns to vapour in thier long beforew it hits the comppressor.

Putting that little can in hot water is wrong. Holding the can upright does not allow the additives to flow...go ahead run your comppressor drie from oil. IDIOT

[mikecarter79]

Warning: Folks, there is a troll here called @timcat100. He is an idiot at large, but I let him post because he amuses me to no end. He seems to like to bash a lot of auto DIY videos. He has absolutely no idea what he is talking about, and in one of his posts, @timcat100 actually stated the following:

"Mind you there was a time when I used water for power steering fluid on a beater car. "

So please, for a good laugh, enjoy his idiotic posts, but never take any of his advice.

[timcat100]

Wrong dude Wrong Dude Wrong wrong wrong ...The DIY cans state to hold the cans upside DWN for a reason. This is "not" Freon! 12a is propane with oil additives and sometimes die's to detect leaks. Been using it for years in various cars. Other then a few dummys like you dunno why we ever used freon in the first place. An emptie system has enough suction to vapourize any liquid long before it hits most starving compressors on systems low in freon.. Ignore warnings not to mix coolants bullshit....

[mikecarter79]

@timcat100 I know that freon and R134a are different compounds idiot, and I am not wrong. If you turn the can upside down and dump liquid refrigerent into the Low side, it wil hit the compressor as a liquid, and BLAM, you will "slug" the compressor, and there will be a good chance of destroying it. In normal AC operation the low side refrigerent is returned to its vapor state prior to entering the compressor. You need to step away from all AC systems and go play checkers or something .

[timcat100]

@mikecarter79 You are still wrong. IDIOT.

These DIY cans contain additives that do not evaporate. This is the reason to have the gas and additives added upside down as a liquid. First off putting the can in hot water is stupid. It only takes 5 to 15 min's if your system is operating properly in the first place. With what you are doing you might as well just jerry rig a 20 lbs propane bottle and install that straight into the system. The liquid evaps long before it hits compressor duh.

[mikecarter79]

@timcat100 OK, Einstein, please pay attention. I will try to keep simple for you. During ac operation, LIQUID refrigerant coming from the condensor is pushed through the High side into the Low side, but it is METERED by an oriface tube or expansion valve, and this is the device that drops the pressure between the High and Low side. The amount of metered liquid(we are in the Low side now genius) then flows through the Evaporator, and the liquid boils returning to a gas.

[mikecarter79]

@dimwit100 Now, the energy for that boiling is provided by the surrounding air so it gives up it's heat and you get cold air (heat absorption). Finally, the suction side of the compressor brings the VAPOR back and it all starts over . As I told you before, if you dump in liquid on the Low side, which bypasses the metering device, only a portion of the Liquid will turn to vapor and the remaining liquid will be pulled into the compressor and "slug" it and most likely ruin it. Can UPRIGHT !!

[GM572]

Or you could have this done at a local auto garage by a pro.

[walker51f1]

how do you charge a system that has about 100psi pressure on the high side but the compressor doesn't run? At what pressure do the compressor start to run?

Thanks for some informative videos!

[chvydrptop]

Thanks for explaining the use of the gauges!

[flyrccopter]

How do you check for vacuum leaks with the Harbor Freight manifold? I have the same pump and manifold, I'm thinking there needs to be a shut off valve on the yellow line or fitting. Thanks for your vids.

[phuxx0r3d]

I had 2 questions: I have seen other tutorials that recommend shaking the can of refrigerant and/or rotating it from the 12 oclock to 3 oclock position to get the refrigerant out - do you recommend this? Also, the specifications for my vehicle recommend 650-700 grams of refrigerant; I added just under 680 but my a/c has barely gotten cool (much less cold); do you recommend adding additional refrigerant until the air feels cold?

[mikecarter79]

@phuxx0r3d Yes, you can shake the can and rotate between 12 oclock and 3 oclock. Keep in mind that the 3 oclock position will allow some liquid refrigerent in, so don't keep it at the 3 oclock for very long(4 or 5 seconds). The reason for this techqnique is to assist in moving the freon from the can and into your ac system. I prefer to immerse the refrigerent can into a pot of hot water to increase the can pressure, which in turn assists in overcoming the resisting Low side pressure.

[BGreenHVAC]

@phuxx0r3d obviously you have no understanding of how refrigeration works. Overcharging is the worst thing you can do. The system has a high and low side with a metering device between them. the pressurized refrigerant expanding into the lowside does the magic. If overcharged you have a high side and a higher side. Very little if any expansion takes place therefore you get no benefit.

[phuxx0r3d]

I had 2 questions: I have seen other tutorials that recommend shaking the can of refrigerant and/or rotating it from the 12 oclock to 3 oclock position to get the refrigerant out - do you recommend this? Also, the specifications for my vehicle recommend 650-700 grams of refrigerant; I added just under 680 but my a/c has barely gotten cool (much less cold); do you recommend adding additional refrigerant until the air feels cold?

[phuxx0r3d]

I had 2 questions: I have seen other tutorials that recommend shaking the can of refrigerant and/or rotating it from the 12 oclock to 3 oclock position to get the refrigerant out - do you recommend this? Also, the specifications for my vehicle recommend 650-700 grams of refrigerant; I added just under 680 but my a/c has barely gotten cool (much less cold); do you recommend adding additional refrigerant until the air feels cold?

[elrober707]

Thank you for your videos. I am preparing for my ASE exam, and your videos really help a lot. Thank your commitment of sharing your knowledge with our community.

[sgtdth666]

The video was very discriptive

[dnave21]

i got some of that in my airhorn

[jasonman1515]

i am certified by ase recovery and recycle

[SubaruB4RSK]

thanks for the videos I have the same vacuum pump and gauge set as you.

I brought the car used but the A/C never really worked.. until one day I removed my bumper to install fog lights and I saw an oily spot on the condenser (giveaway) So I have to order a new one of that but I got this and a new dryer to go along with it. I just wonder did I buy the wrong oil because it's in those cans mixed with R134a and not just the oil alone.

[mikecarter79]

@SubaruB4RSK : I believe that all Subaru models call for PAG-100 oil. Make sure that this is the type in the R134a mix. Also be sure to replace the same amount that was taken out due to the components you replace. You also want to add some to replace the oil that leaked at condensor. You will have to "ballpark" the amount lost at condensor leak. If you AC was not completely run down by the oil/R134a leak, I would add an additional 1 ounce to compensate.

[SubaruB4RSK]

Yep you are right PAG-100 But I was more asking like the PAG-100 in the R-134a mix I don't know how much total oil is in the can verses the PAG-100 oil that's stand alone with no R-134a mix..

And if I went with that kind how and where would you add the oil at?

stupid me I brought a can of R-134a with UV but since I will be replacing everything it seems pretty pointless now?

[levimariah]

when u first charge up the system, u can "jump" the L.P.switch and the compressor will then run, plug the switch back in when the stabilised low side pressure is above the cut out of the L.P. switch, also, I read where someone vacuumed thier system and had to disconnect the guages-u just contaminated your system even worse- if u r going to use r-134a, u need to get an adapter which will convert r-134a fittings to fit regular guage port fittings

[GPDAndrew]

Wow, thanks Mike for a great video along with correct some really bad comments from some of these DIY, hopefully it will save us some compressors in the future!

[davidskatana]

If you are charging to the high side liquid is fine, but you should always charge to the low side in vapour form unless you have a "controlled" means of flashing the liquid off, which in this demonstration you dont, liquid in the low side can hydraulic your compressor, and that means you need a new one!

[mikecarter79]

No, you never want to charge your system on the high side. It is called the "High" side because of the very high pressure in this line. The High side pressures are most ofen 200psi or greater. This kind of pressure can easily burst a can of Freon. Also, I am charging vapor on the Low side. The can is tilted in the pan of water, but it is still in an upright/vapor discharge position. I am aware that charging liquid into the Low side can Slug the compressor and ruin it.

[davidtres2003]

for everyone watching this vid please note that you must keep the freon can upside down and rotate it as it states on the back of all the cans. the way he did it is not recommended. but the idea of putting it in hot water is pretty cool. just if you could figure out how to do that with the can upside down

[mikecarter79]

Wrong. The freon can should be upright so that refigerant "vapor" is drawn into the low side. Remember that the Low side, also known as the suction side, normally operates in a "Low Pressure Vapor" state that is drawn directly into the compressor. You don't want to "slug" the compressor by inverting the can and adding freon in the liquid state. Sometimes it may be necessary to invert the first can for a few seconds at a time to "prime" the system with freon so that the compressor will engage.

[sannitig]

@mikecarter79

He is RIGHT. It says on the can itself to keep it up-side-down.

[katie1987xxx]

its called purging the lines

[WEBTRAIN]

what about inverting the first can first on the high side?? and the oil for the comp? and refeon with ICE?? I've done this..worked for me..I used to work with r12 which was a colder freon..seems like 134a was meant to make some people very rich..

[smtc5b]

LOL - you're joking right ? If you have a system that is properly adapted and designed FOR R134a you will get great cooling - My newer refrigerator uses R134a, the whole system is made for R134a, and let me tell you it is MUCH colder than my older fridge, compressor was good, no leak, full charge - cools MUCH faster too - my freezer temp goes from 0F down to -10F in < 15 minutes 16.5cu/ft If you are SWAPPING to use R134a in an original R12 system, yeah that's a different story!

[GPDAndrew]

If "properly adapted", if properly adapted and you use R12 in it, it would even cool better. R12 cools at lower pressures than R134, when R134 was first brought to market there were many problems with its cooling efficient, thanks to better designed a/c systems it cools as well as the old R12 systems. One reason is condenser evolved to be much more efficient than the old designs, problem is, once you get trash in them they're hard to flush completely, newer model vehicles have to replaced.

[LittleModig]

Dude I saw both of your clips how to a/c charge....thank you so much,you sure bit the shit out of Expert village bullshit clips.

[TimKGrimes]

What are the Low & High valve settings when you're vacuuming the system?

[mikecarter79]

The Low and High valves are open during vacuum process.

[TimKGrimes]

Thanks, MIke!

[JDMGTP]

i have the same gauge set. Where did you get the can fitting? After I vacuumed the system i had to remove my gauge set and use my cheap-o refill hose. I hope I didn't get much air in there.

[yoyo762]

You never mentioned that its advisable to also exchange the dryer/accumulator since the decasant inside can be full of moisture. Its best to replace them every two years if you want the best performance. If you opened up the system, replacement is a must.

[mikecarter79]

Well, I do agree that the receiver/dryer should be changed whenever the system is opened. I xhose not to do this on this particular job. I evacuated the system for a very long time and hopefully removed the bulk of any moisture in the system. But you are correct.

[scottmilkeway2]

hey great video, i also have that gen dodge ram and when the compressor isnt engaging is that a sign that it needs more freon? also what fuse number is the ac compressor on? -thaks

[mikecarter79]

Well, low freon in your system would be 1 cause of the compressor not engaging. As far as fuse for the compressor, I don't know, as this is my son's truck and I did a complete evacuate/re-charge due to a bad shrader valve on the high side.

[RobbyDunlap]

My compressor failed and no oil came out how much do I put back in

[mikecarter79]

If your compressor failed, you may need to have your system "flushed" to remove any metal particulates that may have been driven into the system. This would be the case if the compressor piston borke up due to lack of oil. I cannot tell you how much oil you should add in this case. I can tell you to add the recommened amount that should be noted on a tag on the compressor after a complete "flush"

[GPDAndrew]

The only thing I'd like to add to your statement is, on some of these new model apps its becoming a must to also replace the condenser. Newer model vehicles have micro tubed condensers that are impossible to flush, if catastrophic compressor failure on anything 2000 and newer I would strongly suggest replacing the condenser along with compressor, accumulator/drier, and orifice (if applicable).

[ab9957]

what was the water temp of the refrigerant in the saucepan?

[mikecarter79]

I run tap water on hotest setting. Do NOT use boiling water from the stove, just real hot tap water. The water will cool off in a couple of minutes as the freon can gets very cold when it is discharging from the can into your AC system.

[1967novawagon]

i did my ac system following your instructions and im gonna be cool this summer. thanks so much.

[mikecarter79]

Glad to be of help and hear of your success !!

[cognos444]

Question to Mike Carter: Do you add any oil while adding the 2 lbs freon?

[mikecarter79]

Adding oil to your AC system is totally dependent on the degree of repairs. Since I only recovered freon when I discharged the system, I only added freon back, no oil required. Also, in this application, the total freon requirement was 36ozs, so it required three 12oz cans of R134a.

If you replace old components such as compressor, condensor, evaporator, etc,, I would recommend draining and measuring the amount of oil that was trapped in these components and then replacing the same amount.

[capmookie]

Mike - I have the same truck - 99 Ram 1500 - i have found that posted 2lbs freon to be just a bit too much and had to back off on that amount for when it gets in the 90's here in TN - how does that trucks A/C fair in 90+ degree whether?

[GPDAndrew]

Depending on the size of the leak you may have also lost oil, chances are it was minimum but thats a judgement call you'd have to make. Either that or flush the whole system out and start over, unless its a massive leak I wouldn't worry to much about it.

[1967novawagon]

well done man, thank you very much. you answer lots of questions i had.

[mhilbert1]

Good video, but I have one comment. You mentioned purging the yellow hose, but neglected to mention that the blue and red hoses also need to be purged of air if they have been opened to the atmosphere.

[mikecarter79]

Partially correct observation :

The Low(Blue) and High(Red) lines only need to be purged when they are first hooked up with the first can of freon. When changing out R134a cans, these lines need to be turned off first. This way, they will not need to be re-purged since they are isolated from the outside air. Only the Yellow freon feed line needs purging during R134a can excahange.

[lyvinhxuan]

thanks a lot for the value infor

[joecarter85]

this guy is a freakin genius....