Yeah. Screw those two screws. I left it soaking with PB blaster for 10 minutes. Hammer the hell out of it with my impact drive for another 6 minutes before it broke loose.
I had to whack the heck out of the impact driver a bunch of times as well as whacking with ball pin hammer and with screw drivers and then again a bunch times with the impact driver again, but those screws did finally came out. The screws were wasted. (They really are unneeded and a pain in the rear.) I did not replace them. I had the same problem when i did my civic brakes. (The screw heads broke off that time.) It would have been impossible without the impact driver.
Oh...oh and by the way if wacking does not help i think that mild fire from torch (like butane one). Might help with loosening rust as well... just like on exhaust pipe bolts it does.
I like the "wacking" advice. I tried with WD-40/PBblaster/Kroil, but I think wack is much cleaner and then it iseasier to put rotor back (especially if yous want to resurface it) without cleaning all tha greasy mess. I will try when my Acura needs new brake pads... which is soon.
HEU ERIC, I HAVE A 98 CIVIC , MY FRONT RIGHT HAND SIDE WHEEL STUDS ARE MESSED UP, I NEED TO CHANGE IT, IS TEHRE A STEP BY STEP INTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO CHANGE THEM ,WITHOUT REMOVING THE BEARINGS OR CHANGING THE WHOLE THING, DO I REALLY JUST NEED TO GRIND THE LOGNUT FOR IT TO FIT
Nice video, Nukem. I have replace my front pads and rotors and now my brakes are draging on both sides (and getting very very hot). Any ideas? Calipers? Master Cylinder? Too much fluid in the system?
... Step 4 (after repeating steps 1-3) Drill out the screws with various drill bits. I learned this might be needed after breaking five impact wrench bits and after heating them up with torch!
The screws don't "hold" the rotors in place. Their only function is to keep the screw threads clear of rust. The rotor hole is threaded, the mating surface has no hole, no threads. The "trick" of using a longer bolt in the same hole to remove the rotor is the normal way of removing these rotors.
The screws don't "hold" the rotors in place. Their only function is to keep the screw threads clear of rust. The rotor hole is threaded, the mating surface has no hole, no threads. The "trick" of using a longer bolt in the same hole to remove the rotor is the normal way of removing these rotors.
Thanks! I had gotten as far as tapping with a hammer and using a hammer drill, but reached success with tapping the head of the screw 3 good times with the ball end of a body shop hammer and then twice on the screw driver set into the screw. Would remind others that if you have to tap these out altogether, it's not the end of the world and you don't have to have them. They just help hold the rotors in place while you reassemble the brakes.
Very nice, thanks for the help. I'm changing my brakes on my own for the first time this weekend...good to have an idea of what I'll be getting myself into. Thanks so much!
Hitting one hammer with another is a REALLY BAD idea. The steel heads can shatter or chip and the resulting shrapnel is like a bullet. Use a drift punch instead. It's designed to be hit with a hammer.
Also, I hope that cinder block is holding up ONLY the caliper and not the car. Cinder blocks have a habit of suddenly crumbling under heavy loading.
Would you recommend putting shims on with new rotors? My '06 Pilot has a nice vibration when you first hit the brakes after it's warm. I'm gonna replace the pads and rotors this week-end, but don't want to shell out another $40 for shims if they don't help.
Bought an impact driver today to get the screws out. One head broke off, another came off after a lot of work, and the other two (from the other tire) didn't budge. How do the pro's get these things out? I am at a loss, and was only able to change one rotor, but it is the other rotor that really needs changing. it was scored badly by a worn out brake pad.
is this the same for the rear brakes...also they may sound retarded but i honestly dont know. Are the back brakes used when stopping or is it just for the e-brake?? Im wondering how my rear rotors are worn faster than the front ones. Never had that problem before
@MarioLoco03 yeah same thing, just make sure the ebrake is down or your calipers are never coming off. usually when you brake, the distribution is about 70/30 front/rear. not sure why your rear brakes are wearing out faster...
@MarioLoco03 I have the same issue with my 2006 Accord V6. Its a manual, so I do downshift for slowing down, but I still can't see how my back breaks have worn down so much more compared to my front brakes. Is your car a manual too?
These 2 screws arent needed,the engineers designed this to get the rotors from falling off going down the assembly line before installing the caliper. Sometimes you have to drill the heads off of the scews then pull off rotor and grind the remaining part stuck in the rotor hub or soak with some PB Blaster ( penetrating oil ) and use vice grips to take out the screw. These screws have NOTHING to do with the braking process and REALLY arent needed.
I had a Subaru then bought a Honda, then went back to Subaru.. As much as I hated those 2 screws and how much they slowed down the process, when it came to re-assembly, you actually appreciated them. Still hate them though.
@Called2Cambodia search user: ericthecarguy, he has a tutorial on how to get it out. youll need to bust the head of the screw off and then youre good.
That rorque screwdriver might be the one I just bought and used. It was a little finicky to use. And the instruction on setting it to Clockwise or Counterclockwise was backwards. To see if the directions is correct just press it against the concrete to see which direction it rotates. The device did do the trick but took several solid strikes.
Awesome! Great video! Changing rotors and brakes on my bro-in-law's crv right now and will give this a try. Wife is picking up an impact screwdriver and ballpeen hammer for us. Normally I don't have a problem with this stuff, but started to think I was in over my head and had no clue on how to get these Honda rotors off. Thanks!
i used an impact driver and all the bits twisted and the screws were still in there, so i just cut the heads off with a chisel, and didn't put any screws back on
I've been hammering it with the impact hammer for 30min and the damn screw still won't come out. Why did Honda make such a stupid design. I'm not putting the damn screws back on when I put in the new rotors. Are these 2 screws neccessary?
Thanks for the great video! Gotta change the pads out on my wife's Ridgeline this afternoon so I need to study up on Hondas. Haven't worked on them too much as every one I ever owned never needed anything but the oil and filters changed.
what year honda is this? my 97 accord has captive rotors, and this vid does not apply, correct?
orangehammock 1 day ago
@orangehammock its an 02. correct, the 90-97 accords are ROH style = a big pain.
nukem384 1 day ago
Yeah. Screw those two screws. I left it soaking with PB blaster for 10 minutes. Hammer the hell out of it with my impact drive for another 6 minutes before it broke loose.
KraziAzn2 6 days ago
Great How 2! Makes the process much less intimidating. Thanks.
biz4two 1 week ago
I didn't have the Haynes manual so this saved me some time working on my fiancee's car. Thanks for making it!
IlliniRob1 1 week ago
I had to whack the heck out of the impact driver a bunch of times as well as whacking with ball pin hammer and with screw drivers and then again a bunch times with the impact driver again, but those screws did finally came out. The screws were wasted. (They really are unneeded and a pain in the rear.) I did not replace them. I had the same problem when i did my civic brakes. (The screw heads broke off that time.) It would have been impossible without the impact driver.
thegools 1 week ago
I always understood that hitting two hammer faces together could cause them to shatter.
sirrius183 2 weeks ago
Oh...oh and by the way if wacking does not help i think that mild fire from torch (like butane one). Might help with loosening rust as well... just like on exhaust pipe bolts it does.
maciekskontakt 3 weeks ago
I like the "wacking" advice. I tried with WD-40/PBblaster/Kroil, but I think wack is much cleaner and then it iseasier to put rotor back (especially if yous want to resurface it) without cleaning all tha greasy mess. I will try when my Acura needs new brake pads... which is soon.
maciekskontakt 3 weeks ago
Do you have to check for rotor run out on the new rotor?
hxccalinip 1 month ago
When you spray the brake cleaner on the rotors do you wipe them off of just leave it?
TheTongMan 1 month ago
@TheTongMan probably better to wipe it, but leaving it is fine
nukem384 1 month ago
@nukem384 ok. where can I buy that impact driver? I went to Home Depot and they didn't have one.
TheTongMan 1 month ago
@TheTongMan auto part store. they will have it.
nukem384 1 month ago
2007- 2011 MDX the Break Pad part number is not the same the passport. it the same way to do it?
lannzone456 1 month ago
@lannzone456 yeah should be the same
nukem384 1 month ago
Does anyone know if this is the same as a '95 Honda Accord?
funkswing 1 month ago
@funkswing no its not. the 90-97 accords are rotor behind hub. its quite a hassle to change rotors on these accords.
nukem384 1 month ago
@nukem384 That's what I thought. Thanks for the quick reply.
funkswing 1 month ago
why he wearin gloves?
mercenary9950 2 months ago
should i replace the screws?
laxcrosse135 2 months ago in playlist Car tutorials
@laxcrosse135 nope, you honestly dont need them. the rim will hold the rotor in place
nukem384 2 months ago
HEU ERIC, I HAVE A 98 CIVIC , MY FRONT RIGHT HAND SIDE WHEEL STUDS ARE MESSED UP, I NEED TO CHANGE IT, IS TEHRE A STEP BY STEP INTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO CHANGE THEM ,WITHOUT REMOVING THE BEARINGS OR CHANGING THE WHOLE THING, DO I REALLY JUST NEED TO GRIND THE LOGNUT FOR IT TO FIT
?
guillermo78701 2 months ago
awesome.
Idtelos 2 months ago
Nice video, Nukem. I have replace my front pads and rotors and now my brakes are draging on both sides (and getting very very hot). Any ideas? Calipers? Master Cylinder? Too much fluid in the system?
nakeder69 3 months ago
that did help man thanx a mill. just not sure if my rotor gas those 2 extra slots to slowly force the rotor out. will see thanx again
mack11223 3 months ago
@Lal0Mx sorry no it wont. 90-97 accords are hub over rotor. youve got to take a bunch of things off to get the rotor out.
nukem384 3 months ago
@Lal0Mx yep
nukem384 3 months ago
Very helpful.....the two BALL PEEN HAMMERS did the trick...two whacks, then a reg Phillips. THX
tsx3214 3 months ago
I had to drill them out.
darthmal 4 months ago
i love doing stuff on my own, looks easy going to have fun trying this on my s2000. was just guna get resurfaced but this looks way more fun thx!
19danflo 4 months ago
LOL, I thought you were using a cracked cinder block as a jackstand at first! Look at 1:55
ifixipods 4 months ago
NIce Video
FireDog40k 5 months ago
wack it
bowvalley1 5 months ago
Great video, Thank you for sharing the tricks for those screws!
SonyAlphaLab 5 months ago
Do it work on a 1992 Honda Civic EG8? And what a legend the guy is. My dad & I try to figure out how to remove the rotor.
DeWina512 5 months ago
Uninstall????? do you mean remove?
romandybala 5 months ago
... Step 4 (after repeating steps 1-3) Drill out the screws with various drill bits. I learned this might be needed after breaking five impact wrench bits and after heating them up with torch!
1IdeaAhead 6 months ago
Great Tip ! Thanks Pro.
maychieus 7 months ago
What honda type and year car is this?
Mickycho1964 7 months ago
@Mickycho1964 2002 honda accord. basically every single honda is like this tho.
nukem384 7 months ago
Thanks for the brake bracket screws tip.
Dano1369 8 months ago
94's are pressurized :(
emericais4skating 8 months ago
Thanks a million for your video! I am about to do this job and it helped me out a TON.
frank5994 8 months ago
The screws don't "hold" the rotors in place. Their only function is to keep the screw threads clear of rust. The rotor hole is threaded, the mating surface has no hole, no threads. The "trick" of using a longer bolt in the same hole to remove the rotor is the normal way of removing these rotors.
psdaengr 8 months ago
@psdaengr Try installing the brakes without the screws in. Sure you could use a wheel nut, but the screws will do the same thing.
WilliamTapley 8 months ago
The screws don't "hold" the rotors in place. Their only function is to keep the screw threads clear of rust. The rotor hole is threaded, the mating surface has no hole, no threads. The "trick" of using a longer bolt in the same hole to remove the rotor is the normal way of removing these rotors.
psdaengr 8 months ago
2 Acura dealers could not tell me the size or pitch of the screws used to back the rotor off of the hub. Thank you for pointing that out in your vid.
brightonideas 8 months ago
excellent. thank u.
zhelko 8 months ago
Thanks! I had gotten as far as tapping with a hammer and using a hammer drill, but reached success with tapping the head of the screw 3 good times with the ball end of a body shop hammer and then twice on the screw driver set into the screw. Would remind others that if you have to tap these out altogether, it's not the end of the world and you don't have to have them. They just help hold the rotors in place while you reassemble the brakes.
darrelltwo 8 months ago
Very nice, thanks for the help. I'm changing my brakes on my own for the first time this weekend...good to have an idea of what I'll be getting myself into. Thanks so much!
frostvortex04 8 months ago
Thanks for this tip. Ive been stuck with tight screws on a motorcycle!
avzeolla 9 months ago
Hitting one hammer with another is a REALLY BAD idea. The steel heads can shatter or chip and the resulting shrapnel is like a bullet. Use a drift punch instead. It's designed to be hit with a hammer.
Also, I hope that cinder block is holding up ONLY the caliper and not the car. Cinder blocks have a habit of suddenly crumbling under heavy loading.
zigzagzeke 9 months ago
Would you recommend putting shims on with new rotors? My '06 Pilot has a nice vibration when you first hit the brakes after it's warm. I'm gonna replace the pads and rotors this week-end, but don't want to shell out another $40 for shims if they don't help.
mykulc 9 months ago
@mykulc yeah id use new shims. those things wear out and should be replaced everytime as well (i got lazy).
nukem384 9 months ago
Bought an impact driver today to get the screws out. One head broke off, another came off after a lot of work, and the other two (from the other tire) didn't budge. How do the pro's get these things out? I am at a loss, and was only able to change one rotor, but it is the other rotor that really needs changing. it was scored badly by a worn out brake pad.
thegools 9 months ago
is this the same for the rear brakes...also they may sound retarded but i honestly dont know. Are the back brakes used when stopping or is it just for the e-brake?? Im wondering how my rear rotors are worn faster than the front ones. Never had that problem before
MarioLoco03 9 months ago
@MarioLoco03 yeah same thing, just make sure the ebrake is down or your calipers are never coming off. usually when you brake, the distribution is about 70/30 front/rear. not sure why your rear brakes are wearing out faster...
nukem384 9 months ago
@nukem384 thank you
MarioLoco03 9 months ago
@nukem384 cool. thanks
MarioLoco03 9 months ago
@MarioLoco03 I have the same issue with my 2006 Accord V6. Its a manual, so I do downshift for slowing down, but I still can't see how my back breaks have worn down so much more compared to my front brakes. Is your car a manual too?
JakeofNwk 5 months ago
@MarioLoco03 The rear ones are double brakes- pads for braking, and shoes (on the inside of the rotors) for the parking brake.
darthmal 4 months ago
These 2 screws arent needed,the engineers designed this to get the rotors from falling off going down the assembly line before installing the caliper. Sometimes you have to drill the heads off of the scews then pull off rotor and grind the remaining part stuck in the rotor hub or soak with some PB Blaster ( penetrating oil ) and use vice grips to take out the screw. These screws have NOTHING to do with the braking process and REALLY arent needed.
knowhair 10 months ago 2
Press 5 for wacking it.
blazeb2002 10 months ago
@blazeb2002 lol
MarioLoco03 9 months ago
I had a Subaru then bought a Honda, then went back to Subaru.. As much as I hated those 2 screws and how much they slowed down the process, when it came to re-assembly, you actually appreciated them. Still hate them though.
XXB4XX 10 months ago
What kind of Phillips screw driver are you using in the video ?
moose1328 10 months ago
@moose1328 impact driver. way better than a normal phillips.
nukem384 10 months ago
One of the screws on my acura integra is stripped out don't know how im going to get that out yet!! :-(
Called2Cambodia 10 months ago
@Called2Cambodia search user: ericthecarguy, he has a tutorial on how to get it out. youll need to bust the head of the screw off and then youre good.
nukem384 10 months ago
This is actually a correct way of doing this. Good job!
rdvalla 10 months ago
Oh man thanks a lot that really help me
Sisilifestyle1988 11 months ago
That rorque screwdriver might be the one I just bought and used. It was a little finicky to use. And the instruction on setting it to Clockwise or Counterclockwise was backwards. To see if the directions is correct just press it against the concrete to see which direction it rotates. The device did do the trick but took several solid strikes.
JayZoop 11 months ago
Thanks for this video. I think I can do this after watching your video.
arrosconpollo1 1 year ago
Awesome! Great video! Changing rotors and brakes on my bro-in-law's crv right now and will give this a try. Wife is picking up an impact screwdriver and ballpeen hammer for us. Normally I don't have a problem with this stuff, but started to think I was in over my head and had no clue on how to get these Honda rotors off. Thanks!
BuckslayerBob 1 year ago
Thank you very much for this video .very informative and helpful
zulnoon78 1 year ago
sry it was alot of help lol.....
71505VYP 1 year ago
dude it was no much help this video u save me alot of money.... thx it was ez and fast lol...
71505VYP 1 year ago
The impact hammer worked on most of the screws for me, but the ball-peen hammer trick finished off the rest! Thanks for the trick!
twonsify 1 year ago
@twonsify ball-peen hammer trick worked awesome for me too!!! as I lie in wait for my new rotors. Worked simple and fast, just like he said.
I tried the hammer and screw driver technique like he showed and had no luck. not even a budge...
awesome thanks man!
ruiner29 1 year ago
Nice video, i use a solder torch on the screw and heat it up then wd4 then couple of good hit and it came out very easy. thank u for the video
lion2655 1 year ago
i used an impact driver and all the bits twisted and the screws were still in there, so i just cut the heads off with a chisel, and didn't put any screws back on
eduardosantacruz 1 year ago
Nice Video!
teachmeautodotcom 1 year ago
Thank you very much for this video..You have saved me hours of fun with my car.....
Cheers!
Raydungey 1 year ago
I've been hammering it with the impact hammer for 30min and the damn screw still won't come out. Why did Honda make such a stupid design. I'm not putting the damn screws back on when I put in the new rotors. Are these 2 screws neccessary?
goku28 1 year ago
@goku28 nope! i didnt put mine back in either.
nukem384 1 year ago
@goku28 or you could use wd40
punjabiz4life 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@goku28 or you could use wd40
punjabiz4life 1 year ago
@goku28 or you could use wd40
punjabiz4life 1 year ago
@goku28 does the impact driver can both screw or unscrew? If it is, may be you were driving it instead of unscrewing it
rungassamydonovan47 11 months ago
Thanks for you time making this - 1 less trip to the garage.
gordonliverpool 1 year ago
Perfect! Just what I was looking for!
wsticht 1 year ago
Thanks for the great video! Gotta change the pads out on my wife's Ridgeline this afternoon so I need to study up on Hondas. Haven't worked on them too much as every one I ever owned never needed anything but the oil and filters changed.
axesbowledaslove 1 year ago