Added: 1 year ago
From: TheWoodWhisperer
Views: 22,007
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  • I have over 12 years of professional work working experience. I have made thousands of doors and many different panel profiles, However I am more use to 5 to 7 hp shapers not little routers. I must say that two piece panel blew my mind. I think I will try to find a use for it in the future.

  • look's good man nice job

  • Do you have a video about mounting the prolift in the Festool table?

  • @poisoncustoms Nope. That is a special top that was made for the prolift. Woodwerks Supply sells them. Its called the Festop.

  • Hi Mark, i too am a woodworker and appreciate the video and marketing you are doing to expose your craft. Phill Vonk of D Christjan Fine Cabinetry.

  • Great videos. I'd love to see your shows get picked up on syndication. Norm is great, but maybe it's time for a "Changing of the Guard" so-to-speak. (Also, my PBS station for some reason doesn't show NYS anymore.

  • @jallenmorris1 haha thanks man.

  • @jallenmorris1 Sadly, 2009 was the final season of New Yankee Workshop. I second the idea of a syndicated WW show!

  • @jallenmorris1 New Yankee Workshop has called it quits unfortunately.

  • @jallenmorris1 Norm was canceled unfortunantly

  • Hi Marc, i have a question. How did you prevent the thin walnut piece of wood from drifting/moving during the glue-up/clamping process?

    Nice vid, thanks.

  • @giliam74 I actually do a little trick using CA glue. I put a little dime-size puddle of CA (super glue) in the middle and I put the regular titebond glue around the rest of the piece. I then spray accelerator on the CA glue and quickly press the pieces together. The small amount of CA glue is enough to hold the panel in position and the clamps and the regular glue do the rest of the the work.

  • Ok tool man... where did you get the router top for your Festool table?????

    I hate choking out the price for Festool stuff but I have a very small area in my basement to play in and my Multifunction Table is a real spacesaver....

    Now cough it up.......Did you make it or is Festool coming out with it????

  • @xd40hcsc haha, its called a FesTop. Not made by Festool though. You can buy them at WoodWerks.

  • Please, let us see the finished product when you are done. I am very curious what the wallnut/BE-maple looks like when finished.

  • You said you couldnt show us the whole project...ever think about just setting up a camera in the corner to show us a speedy version of your entire project while you work?

  • @lestudio76 Neat idea but that would be a heck of a lot of footage! I did have my live webcams going during most of the project though.

  • We used to do that with veneers as well but we would always put the same thickness veneer on both sides of the substrate (the birds eye in your case) to equalize the tensions so they will not warp.

    You could have also stretched the Birds eye by just using a birds eye maple border around MDF then laminate the Walnut over the MDF.

    Looking forward to hear if these warp at all.

    Keep the chips flying.

  • @GoneBattyBats There really shouldn't be any problem with warping in this instance. Now if the maple decided to move at a drastically different rate from the walnut, there could be a problem. But the walnut is so thin and the movement differences aren't great enough for it to be much of a concern. The small size of the panel is working in our favor as well. Living in Arizona helps too. :)

  • @TheWoodWhisperer OK, but all laminations must be equal on all side for stress relief. Maple is well known for being less stable and Walnut for being more stable.

    Really hope this works, but we may not live long enough to see the results.

    Changes will be subtle over time.

  • You talk about stabilizing the Walnut. How is that done?

  • @gslope1 I basically use epoxy in the larger gaps and CA glue for the small gaps and soft wood areas. Then once the piece is glued to a substrate, I can be pretty confident that its as stable as its going to get.

  • liked the video it give me a great idea for a bed side cabinet thanks keep the great videos coming

  • Good video, anything 2 tone sure makes the piece stand out.

    I had a random question for you regarding pencils :) I notice you appear to use a standard size pencil as did Dave Marks and it always appears to be very sharp. I have used standard pencils, carpenter pencils (rectanglish type) and the carpenter pencils which are circular but larger in diameter then a regular pencil. Do you ever run into problems with line consistency using non mechanical pencils? How often do you sharpen?

    Thanks

  • @pberglin Yes I do. But there is a certain amount of tolerance for it. But if I am making really fine marks for final cuts, I always use a fresh point. And the pencil sharpener is right near the bench so its not really a problem. For the super sensitive stuff, I actually use a marking knife for the ultimate in accuracy.

  • Hey Marc, I had kind of an odd question...when you said a "disaster" could happen if you spin the router bit too fast for its size, it got me wondering (and I've been wondering this off and on for a long time)...what exactly WOULD happen if you spun a large bit too fast? I really wouldn't like to try doing that just for the sake of finding out, lol, so by any chance do you know what would happen?

  • @GamingDrummer89 Fortunately, I haven't had to experience this myself but my guess is that the weight of the bit could bend the collet and the bit could come loose or just unstable.

  • I have been working on my kitchen for 5 years now. Sadly in 2007 I was diagnosed with Parkinson's Disease. Needless to say my kitchen remains unfinished. I do what I can and now due to the economy am stuck with particle board cabinets saved from a neighbors remodel. I have ideas but not energy and no money ( well I do what I can when I can). Any suggestions on any ways I can finish this and still make it look custom and clean for very little money?

  • @papadonto8 Sorry to hear about your health issues. I am glad to hear you are still getting into the shop though. Its hard for me to give any meaningful recommendations without in-depth knowledge of your project, tools, and skills, as well as the limitations. But keep in mind simple things can be elegant. I would try to incorporate simple joinery and use lots of jigs for repeatability. Good luck my friend.

  • @tigerhellmaker I just used what I have on hand, which is the horizontal model. Personal, I prefer it since I have gravity on my side.

  • I really enjoy the videos, full of good tips. The one thing, you, like many other quality wood workers, have an elaborate shop setup. For someone like me, (a weekend DIY’er) I can’t sacrifice my garage (or $) for something this nice. However, I want to do my own work and build cabinets, and closet systems. I love a challenge so I limit myself to a drill and circular saw. Do you have any tips on doing it on the cheap and easy? For example pocket screws and other jigs? I’ll look at ur varnish DVD.

  • @AeroJimE27 Hey Jim. We have a few video series that focus on doing thing with minimal tools. You might want to check out our Low Entertainment Center series. It was intentionally done with a very minimal set of tools.

  • what about using a sacrificial scrap piece against the work piece during the cross cuts to reduce tearout?

  • @iamafractal Absolutely, if the tearout is that bad. But by cutting sequentially, starting with the end grain, its usually unnecessary.

  • love the t shirt:P

  • if yr parents wont work 4 u threaten them with the nursing home, that usually works lol

  • @palmer3977 lol now there's an idea!

  • very nice,, 

  • What a great idea. I would never of thought of that, well done. If you get a minute show us the final product.

  • Stumbled across your videos a week or two ago. Great work and great advise. I was amazed when I saw the finished doors here that looks incredible.

  • id like to see a video on fixing gouges on fine finishes

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