Added: 11 months ago
From: nictaylor00
Views: 7,945
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (36)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Awesome video! Whats the spacer called. I just bought a series 80 and would like to convert it to a series 70. Thanks man.

  • @fuqak47 I have an annotation in the video. You may not have seen the anotations if you you were watching it on a mobil device. So I put it in the video description as well as a link to the part.

  • Hi Nick! w/respect, regarding to 1911 (referring ParaO PXT1640S, it maybe un-economical & mechanically bad design. Dats a continue of Slide Stop Pin, Slide Stop Plunger up to Safety Lock Plunger. Total length is 7cm. Slide Stop of Beretta is only one pin. And same other pistols are independent Slide Lock Safety w/o continue Slide Stop Pin.

    Ds can be simplified independently for not only for few steel materials but importantly, easy pushout of Slide Stop Pin like Beretta. How do you think?

  • @fkda7 Sorry, I don't quite understand what you are saying.

  • Yes ! it is wooded tooth pick, painted by black ink.

    Thank you. I will try to see your video how to defeat it.

  • I removed Safety 80 Safety of Para USA PXT 16-40 Limited. Trigger pull became light. Also diactivated Grip Safety by inserting tooth pick (cut to the same width of Main Spring Housing) between Grip Safety and Main Spring Housing. It means the Grip Safety became the condition that is gripped permanently. Why did ? is because keep pressing Slide Lock Left Safety by left finger while pulling trigger, thomb is sometimes lifted from Grip Safety.

  • @fkda7 My 38 super Open gun is the same with the grip safety pinned. You may want to look into using a metal roll pin instead of a tooth pick (I assume the tooth pick is wood). If it is wood it may break after a while.

    In my GSG video(s) I show how to defeat the grip safety in another fashion.

  • is it possible to do the same thing on the GSG 1911?

  • @bong9130 It might be but after looking at mine it seemed pretty complex. I was afraid if I fiddled with it too much that I might jack something up. The trigger seems pretty good in my pistol so far so I am probably not gonna mess with it.

  • @nictaylor00 Yeah i just picked up mine today and field stripped it. The slide parts seem different while the frame has all the series 80 parts. The trigger is pretty nice (especially for a sub $400 pistol). Went through ~400 rounds today and its a sweet pistol!

  • Theoretically couldn't one just take the plunger out of the slide and get the same effect?

  • @seedsjln370 I guess you could. But you would still have those moving parts in there.

  • @nictaylor00 True dat

  • As for the hole that is left from the removal of that safety plunger, now will that cause any problems as far as residual buildup from burnt powders, dirt, etc? I recently had a friend clean my GCNM series 80 and he lost the depressor spring. I was going to send to Clark Custom for a trigger job and some accuracy work, But they said I must supply the spring. Now I'm contemplating if I should use the spacer block instead and see how the trigger feels then? Any thought folks???? TIA...........

  • @poopster77 I never had any issues with the hold getting clogged and causing troubles. I bet the gun would be so dirty for that hole to cause trouble that something else would fail 1st. I would order the spacer and a replacement for the missing part. There may be some liability if they send it to you missing the safety features. You can always take it out after they work on your gun.

  • liked and subbed i was looking at those kahr arms ww2 replica 1911s but i feel the series 80 firing pin block stuff is retarded so thank you for showing how to disable that useless feature haha

  • @nictaylor00 the depressor is a little black lever that rides on a tiny spring in one of ears on the sear and is held in place by the sear pin. it helps keep the inertia from the trigger from dropping the hammer when the slide slams forward. i know the national match's have them but the standard models may not.

  • what about the depressor and depressor spring?

  • @jetsixpack I'm not sure what parts you are referring to. Can you describe them more?

  • I was just making a joke because video editing does make a pile of little gun parts magically go back together. I shoot my 1911 alot and never have messed with the trigger ground nor realized there was type 70 and 80 series. Mine is a type 80 and I may venture into the refurb. Thanks for the info.

  • @jameskelilowman Yeah, I knew you were making a joke, no worries.

    If you don;t end up taking your series 80 stuff out. At least remember that trick about putting a pencil in the barrel to test it. That will save you some grief. I wish I knew it at the time I put mine together wrong.

  • That was a cool video! I learned alot about the trigger group of the 1911 from that, I was pretty impressed with how fast you put that gun back together

  • @jameskelilowman Ah the miracle of video editing :) I did that on purpose to keep the video short. Besides, I was trying to focus on the series 80 and not reassembly. Thanks for watching!

  • good video, thanks!

  • Thanks for the informative vid. Looking forward to any new DIY ones you make.

  • great vid..i just notice the square hole where the slide lock is inserted, the rail on the 1911 has no gap in between unlike that of the 1991, which the square hole for the part of the slide lock where it locks the frame has that "cut".

  • @lisolangka I never noticed that before.  I thought they were pretty much identical... I'll check it out.

  • @nictaylor00 sorry for the poor sentence construction..what i meant was the square hole intended for the locking part of the slide lock located right under the rail of the lower receiver. the 1911 rail is continuous and has no gaps or cut in between, but on the 1991, the rail of the lower receiver where you insert the slide lock has a gap in between. i wonder how 1991 model locks the slide lock pin itself without having contact with the upper receiver.

  • great vid, thank you

  • lol. great vid though, have always enjoyed your vids and your thoughts on lots of gun and gear and competition, didn't realize your good at tinkering with those guns too. i have always wondered how to take those gizmos out and how to put em back. you would be the first on utube to do such a thing. keep em great videos coming and more success to you on the competitions that you join.

  • @frederickfrenchjr08 Thanks a bunch! I'm hopefully gonna post a video soon on the Saiga 308 that was used in one of my videos. I get emails on that video pretty regularly and I figure it would be easiest to make a video about it. I'll be shooting the LaRue 3-gun match in a couple of weeks too so hopefully I will get some descent footage of some of the stages. My shooting is gonna stop after for the year that since I'm about to go under the knife for a knee injury i got at the ProAm.

  • @nictaylor00

    wow, knee surgery eh, well, here is hoping you get well soon so subscribers like me could enjoy your vids. and good luck to the three gun match and enjoy yourself as well. could not wait to see how to put those gizmos back on, am here in california and you could hardly get a 1911 without the firing pin block on it. i hated those with passion since i could not get the trigger pull that i want. those without it cost an arm an a leg, you know the national match type models.

  • @frederickfrenchjr08 So are 1911's illegal in CA if they are series 70? Or are they just not allowed to be sold there anymore? Have you shot the steel challenge in Piru CA? You might consider it if you have not. I've shot it in the past and it was the most professionally run match I have ever shot.

  • @nictaylor00

    they are not illegal, but CA dept of justice requires newer model pistols to pass a drop test, and manufacturers like colt, kimper and so forth have placed firing pin blocks on models sold in CA. those that could be sold without the firing pin blocks are the grandfathered models like the 1911A1 or GI. without the lowered or flared ejection port, and microspic sights, mostly MIM parts, needs a lot of stoning and polishing on internals, or replacing with forged steel parts.

  • great vid, now if only you could make a vid showing how to put those gizmoz that you took out back just in case you will not use those guns for competition and instead use if for home defense.

  • @frederickfrenchjr08 Yeah, those little things are tough to put back in. I keep some pliers with my tools for manipulating little parts like that. If I could get the lighting and the focus correct, I would have attempted to show how to put them in... of course the video may have been R rated after I was done since I'm sure my language would have gotten colorful.

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more