You are very clever. I agree the steel tines make a creative "spring." It is wonderful how sharing on the internet allows us to learn from people all over the world. (even down-under )
hello im just about to have a go at making my heater based on spikes having put it off for a while and having run a mother earth for two years ( it smokes badly at times). i see on your heater you too had trouble getting a cylinder liner , i was wondering what length your secondary burner flat bar stock and the internal diameter of the secondary burner is as i am going to make mine similar to yours as it seems to work very well thanks very much Derek .
@derek876544 The dimensions of the individual segments are: 1/8-inch thick, 1/2-inch wide, 6-inches long. The outside diameter of the secondary chamber is 5-inches. So far, the segments are holding up well. This is the second winter and I have used it quite a bit. Good luck with your project...post it if you can! Regards.
@trex65ghia The nails help agitate (mix) the gasses as they pass through the secondary combustion chamber. Hopefully, this helps the efficiency of the unit. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!! Keep warm!!!
@thierryanna I agree that this is most likely not the best choice for what you want (unless you want a sauna in the outbuilding ;-). To Spike's point and the beauty of this design is does does not need any external pumps or fans to operate. While it is a very basic, somewhat crude design by today's standards; properly managed, it can be a gem. Good luck and thanks for your comments!
@thierryanna Suggest you review Spike's website. He has excellent information. Under his Principles heading READ: The First Test Run, Inside. While humurous, it could have turned ugly real fast! I too had one situation where I got too much oil in the pot. Before I knew it, both drums were cherry red. I discovered that closing off the primary air inlet holes brought the beast back under control. Scarey though for a few minutes!
@thierryanna There are too many variables for one answer. Temperature variations could be several hundred degrees. In my workshop, I can start out at +15 degrees and an hour later the feed pipe is >+500 degrees! Location and type of feed valve is critical (I have a good needle valve and control is not always as expected and I must modulate frequently). Assuming this in a shed (wood?), what would you do with excess heat? Dumping it would be a waste, but shed temperatures would soar if contained!
@thierryanna Hello! In my opinion, this design heater is not suitable for the application you mention. If you watch ozzirt's videos (and his other links), he states that these type heaters are not automatic and should not be left unattended; I agree 100%. Oil flow rate must be monitored closely as viscosity changes due to temperature. Runaway situations can occur easily if too much oil is fed into pot. These are good for space heating under closely monitored conditions. Be safe!
I guess what I really like is seeing how we all achieve the same ends, often using vastly different materials. Your idea for the secondary burner is absolutely unique, nobody else has done it that way that I know of.
I'm not sure, but I feel that If you have flames in the chimney, you could probably turn down the fuel a smidgin, and still get the same amount of useful heat. I just feel that you are probably putting good heat straight up the stack.
@ozzirt Good day! I am honored that you enjoyed the video and like what I have done. LOL I am too cheap to let the heat go up the chimney. I have a Heatilator unit about 3-feet up. Temp going out the top is usually below 125 degrees. Thanks again for the comment!
@gersher1266 Thank you! I just enjoy puttering in my workshop. There are several postings by others that are quite nice. We can all share and learn together.
looks excellent have you considered putting a pressure washer diesel water feed coil into the system so that you can get water to radiators . great how people share stuff free over internet .take 5 if you can to view my main research .all for free once again.....
@honda4004 Thank you. In fact, I have thought about how easy it would be to wrap one brake drum with 3/4-inch soft copper to produce domestic hot water. Fortunately, I have a very nice wood gasification boiler that provides all my heat and domestic hot water at minimal expense. This unit will live in my workshop. I will look at what you have developed. Thanks again!
Thanks for taking your time to disassemble and explain, really good work.
2tourVet 2 weeks ago
You are very clever. I agree the steel tines make a creative "spring." It is wonderful how sharing on the internet allows us to learn from people all over the world. (even down-under )
birdwing98 2 weeks ago
hello im just about to have a go at making my heater based on spikes having put it off for a while and having run a mother earth for two years ( it smokes badly at times). i see on your heater you too had trouble getting a cylinder liner , i was wondering what length your secondary burner flat bar stock and the internal diameter of the secondary burner is as i am going to make mine similar to yours as it seems to work very well thanks very much Derek .
derek876544 2 months ago
@derek876544 The dimensions of the individual segments are: 1/8-inch thick, 1/2-inch wide, 6-inches long. The outside diameter of the secondary chamber is 5-inches. So far, the segments are holding up well. This is the second winter and I have used it quite a bit. Good luck with your project...post it if you can! Regards.
Kntryhart 2 months ago
and what do the nails do again
trex65ghia 4 months ago
@trex65ghia The nails help agitate (mix) the gasses as they pass through the secondary combustion chamber. Hopefully, this helps the efficiency of the unit. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!! Keep warm!!!
Kntryhart 4 months ago
what do the brake drums do?
trex65ghia 4 months ago
@thierryanna I agree that this is most likely not the best choice for what you want (unless you want a sauna in the outbuilding ;-). To Spike's point and the beauty of this design is does does not need any external pumps or fans to operate. While it is a very basic, somewhat crude design by today's standards; properly managed, it can be a gem. Good luck and thanks for your comments!
Kntryhart 1 year ago
@thierryanna Suggest you review Spike's website. He has excellent information. Under his Principles heading READ: The First Test Run, Inside. While humurous, it could have turned ugly real fast! I too had one situation where I got too much oil in the pot. Before I knew it, both drums were cherry red. I discovered that closing off the primary air inlet holes brought the beast back under control. Scarey though for a few minutes!
Kntryhart 1 year ago
@thierryanna There are too many variables for one answer. Temperature variations could be several hundred degrees. In my workshop, I can start out at +15 degrees and an hour later the feed pipe is >+500 degrees! Location and type of feed valve is critical (I have a good needle valve and control is not always as expected and I must modulate frequently). Assuming this in a shed (wood?), what would you do with excess heat? Dumping it would be a waste, but shed temperatures would soar if contained!
Kntryhart 1 year ago
@thierryanna Hello! In my opinion, this design heater is not suitable for the application you mention. If you watch ozzirt's videos (and his other links), he states that these type heaters are not automatic and should not be left unattended; I agree 100%. Oil flow rate must be monitored closely as viscosity changes due to temperature. Runaway situations can occur easily if too much oil is fed into pot. These are good for space heating under closely monitored conditions. Be safe!
Kntryhart 1 year ago
You have done a great job on the heater.
I guess what I really like is seeing how we all achieve the same ends, often using vastly different materials. Your idea for the secondary burner is absolutely unique, nobody else has done it that way that I know of.
I'm not sure, but I feel that If you have flames in the chimney, you could probably turn down the fuel a smidgin, and still get the same amount of useful heat. I just feel that you are probably putting good heat straight up the stack.
ozzirt 1 year ago
@ozzirt Good day! I am honored that you enjoyed the video and like what I have done. LOL I am too cheap to let the heat go up the chimney. I have a Heatilator unit about 3-feet up. Temp going out the top is usually below 125 degrees. Thanks again for the comment!
Kntryhart 1 year ago
@Kntryhart That's really great to hear. With me being of three parts Scottish and one part Jewish descent, I hate to see anything being wasted. :-)
ozzirt 1 year ago
Really enjoyed the video, out of all I have seen this unit looks the best.
Great work.
gersher1266 1 year ago
@gersher1266 Thank you! I just enjoy puttering in my workshop. There are several postings by others that are quite nice. We can all share and learn together.
Kntryhart 1 year ago
Nice burner, burning very clean as i can see.
scampppp 1 year ago
looks excellent have you considered putting a pressure washer diesel water feed coil into the system so that you can get water to radiators . great how people share stuff free over internet .take 5 if you can to view my main research .all for free once again.....
honda4004 1 year ago
@honda4004 Thank you. In fact, I have thought about how easy it would be to wrap one brake drum with 3/4-inch soft copper to produce domestic hot water. Fortunately, I have a very nice wood gasification boiler that provides all my heat and domestic hot water at minimal expense. This unit will live in my workshop. I will look at what you have developed. Thanks again!
Kntryhart 1 year ago
WELL DONE.
ckhemken 1 year ago