Added: 2 years ago
From: smbstressfest
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  • Do you have any insight into a Les Paul's tendency to have the G string go sharp at the second fret? Is this due to the nut or some other factor? Seems most LP owners complain about the same thing, so I wonder if it is inherent in the design... Thanks for the great video's!

  • @mikeguitarification I have to admit that I've both never heard anyone make this claim until now, and I've personally never noticed the tendency of the 3rd string to play sharp on the 2nd fret on any of the many Les Pauls I've owned over the years. But speaking in general terms, if the nut slot is cut VERY shallow and requires the string to be "stretched" or bent slightly to reach the top of the fret, the note will play a little sharp.

  • Also (and very rare) you could have issues with ALL notes on a certain fret being sharp or flat if the fret is improperly located or (much more commonly) if the fret top is overly flat and causes the string to "take off" towards the back edge of the fret instead of top dead center (the way it should if a fret is crowned properly).

  • In my experience they feel tighter because I have replaced nuts and compared them.I have a Tele with the nut cut too low and on the higher positions it is stiff. I think if I raise it up at the nut where it is supposed to be then my bends will be easier to make. I replaced a nut on my old strat and it now plays so good in all positions and i can bend anywhere and it must be the angle of my finger on the string but the bend feels great compared to my tele. Any suggestions. thank you for replying

  • @Octoguitarian70 You didn't make any mention as to why you think having a nut cut too low makes the guitar feel stiff. How could this be?  And would it be any different if you took a guitar that had a correctly cut string nut and put a capo on the first fret? For all intents and purposes this has the exact same effect as cutting the nut slots too deep when you're playing high up the neck. I've never encountered a string nut that had any effect on how the guitar performed high on the neck.

  • Being a repair tech of any kind, you have to be careful not to automatically assume causation from a correlation. Especially so when you're unable to hypothesize a mechanism for the observed issue. I.E. don't make the conclusion that string nut slots cut too low caused the "stiffness" you reported high up the neck just because it seemed to go away after you replaced a string nut. Ask yourself "if A caused B, why?" and can it be replicated on other guitars besides your own?

  • If you cut the nut slots too low you can't get good bends up higher on the fingerboard.

  • @Octoguitarian70 Perhaps I misunderstand you, but that really doesn't make much sense. How do you suppose that nut slot depth could possibly affect your ability to bend strings further up the neck. The only definite thing I'll say about cutting nut slots too low is that it will cause an open string to buzz or twang. Beyond that, going too deep with the nut doesn't really do much.

  • how much would it cost for you too assemble a guitar like that for me?

  • @kevino2566 Send me a PM listing the approximate specs and details on the guitar you're interested in putting together and I'll get you an accurate quote.

  • @smbstressfest i dont really have any specs, but stratocaster HSH w/ a floyd rose and a 24-fret reposition and everything else that the guitar in this video had....how much would something like that cost for you to assemble for me?.....appreciate it

  • @kevino2566 I meant for you to send me a private message. I don't answer questions regarding price of work in the comments section of these videos.. I have a few questions, I'm PM you.

  • @kevino2566 just buy a regular super strat. like a neck thru ESP with a floyd rose, possibly 7 string. better sustain better quality cheaper price. buy the guitar before you build the guitar.

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  • @blackkswann Do you actually need string trees with the staggered post locking tuners though?

  • @smbstressfest. I have 13 Am Std Strats and 1 Mex Strat so far (all rosewood necks). Anyway, I had my guitar tech do my setups and mods because I dint know how to do anything. Now I am learning. I had the claw saddles replaced with roller saddles and added the roller string tree (came with the saddles) to replace the standard Fender string tree. I had the second tree added for continuity since I have seen other guitars with two trees. I didn't want an ugly hole in the headstock.

  • @smbstressfest What I would REALLY like to know is how to setup the Fender two point tremolo bridge. All my strats are different and I am now trying to get them to be the same for me. I have been checking out Jeff Babicz bridge as an alternative to the Fender bridge! The Fender handbook suggest a 1/8" gap under the bridge but that's easier said than done since positioning of the tremolo claw (spring tension) and two point screws for the bridge effect the bridge height.

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  • @smbstressfest BTW. Many thanks for your videos. They explain everything in a clear and concise fashion. I can understand what you are doing and how it effects the guitar. I have taken the time to add the copper shielding to all my strats yes it is a PITA. but it seems to quieten them down.

    Q?What is the earth lugs purpose that is screwed into the body of the guitar near the pots routing?. I'm terminating the tremolo claws earth here and running a single earth to the pickguard from that point.

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  • I have had tuning problems untill I loosened the string tree on my strat,(made it taller) I am tempted to get the american standard type string tree. I read this on their description.:

    Fender® String Guides (String Trees) are designed to minimize tuning problems and sympathetic overtones caused by low string tension..What is your opinion of this issue I am having ?( I have a single vintage string tree, ESP vintage plus strat

  • @HackerGuitarist I'd try to get away from ANY kind of trees if I could. Going with staggered post tuning machines help a lot. No matter what the design or the material, a string tree will always add some friction. Some are better than others certainly, but I just try to eliminate the need when I can.

  • I think it's good to leave the string height above the first fret a small bit higher than needed, maby 1/32. Basically take the string and fret it on the first fret and notice the height or space above the second fret, then just match this for the "open" non/fretted / nut-fretted string while observing the string height space above the first fret. Thing is, go slow here people or you will be filling/remaking a nut...some have said superglue can fill a nut slot.

  • @trailkeeper 1/32" is nearly .032" and that's going to feel so stiff (especially on the plain strings) that most people would require them cut lower. 1/32" is more what you'd shoot for on the low B on a 5 or 6-string bass. More reasonable for a guitar might be starting with .015" for the treble strings and something like .020-.025" for the bass strings. Even those numbers are conservative and will likely require further trimming to suit the avg player. You're correct about going slow though.

  • @trailkeeper Also, superglue WILL fill nut slots fairly well. I'd rather not have to fill and recut (the fill wears faster than the original material and can cause tuning issues with the treble strings) but if I choose to, I'll tend to use a composite of water thin CA and baking soda. Once you fill the slot you can dust a bit of Arm&Hammer in there for a quick cure and a more even cutting slot.

  • @smbstressfest Maby epoxy is slightlybetter than superglue, because superglue is actually very brittle once it reaches so much stress on it, unless you add other material in with it like you said.

  • @trailkeeper Epoxy would be a poor choice because it's generally too viscous to flow into the tiny string slots on a guitar nut. That might be an option for a bass nut though.

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  • Hello , great videos btw, ive been following all these vid's, could you help me, why my strat when open tuned is fine but when hold down a chord say a C or E the notes are sharp, yet the hight of the string is low to the first fret ???

    thanks

  • @markclemo123 There could be a lot of reasons. The nut location could be slightly off. The string slots might not be correctly backfiled leaving the strings not leading off the front edge of the nut. A fret or two could be slightly off as well.

    Assuming there isn't a problem with the guitar, the issue might be our tuning system. I don't the space here to go into it very thorough but many people find that they have to "temper" the tuning of a guitar to get certain chords to sound in tune.

  • Hello , Thanks for the swift reply... You are correct about the nut... i have done all the frets and they are in great condition , thanks to you !!!! you are right in the fact that it is indeed the nut, i think the string was sitting flat across the nut rather than as you said it should tapper away from the leading edge , i think this is also why i had a slight buzz on the string at the same time..... amazing that 3mm can make all the difference .. is there a spacific angle to cut ???

  • @markclemo123 Glad to hear the problem has been corrected! Regarding the angle of the nut slots, all you're really trying to do is mimic the angle that the string must break at to hit the tuning post and the end of it's winding, if that makes any sense. If you angle too much you'll probably wear the nut out sooner, and may have some rattling and chatter sounds from behind the nut which probably will be audible through the amp so proceed with caution.

  • Hi That makes sense thanks....  Again your video sessions are fantastic and in great detail ... AAA+ sir

    Best

    Mark

  • Hello , great videos btw, ive been following all these vid's, could you help me, why my strat when open tuned is fine but when hold down a chord say a C or E the notes are sharp, yet the hight of the string is low to the first fret ???

    thanks

  • So i have another question and its about guitar strings... I just bought a new guitar with a graphtech nut and i put .010- .060 gauge strings on them, and didn't rout out the nut, is that ok? cause the fit well, and i have another guitar with even biger strings and it kind of self rout its nut to the size of the string, so i dont know if thats bad or good. let me know, thanks.

  • It's always better to cut the nut slot to fit before the big string goes in there. Less chance of blowing out a corner on the low E side.

    A few years back when those Zakk Wylde gauge strings first came on the market, I earned a small fortune making new string nuts for guitars where the big low E string blew a corner on the string nut.

  • Jay,

    Lets see a video of you doing a neck scallop like yngwie's

  • That's a pretty serious undertaking, not likely something I'd do just for the helluvit. But, if you drop the dime, I'll find the time LOL!

  • aaahhhh just what I needed to start off my day

  • lol over 5 hours of footage already yikes

  • LOL, yeah. Maybe I should be selling DVD's... Anyone wanna buy the 5 disc set of "Jason Builds a Strat SEASON 1"?!

  • I'd buy that.

    Those would probably go over very well.

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