@RSXKane The fill bolt is on the front of the transmission (if you're standing at the front of the car). It's oriented about 8" up from where the fill bolt is, and should be directly to the left of the shift fork.
The bolts you don't want to risk taking loose are the 3 14mm bolts lined up with each other. There are spring loaded ball bearings behind them. The fill bolt is by itself.
@Jafromobile i finally found the right bolts but it looks nothing like yours the drain plug is on the back side of the transmission but it didnt really fix my issue it helped a little with the new syncromesh oil but some times its still tough as hell to get in to first
could this be a broken mount? i think perhaps the one on the back side of the motor is broken and maybe everything is miss alined by a small amount
thx for the help before and any help u can give me
I'm trying to do a fluid swap but I can't see the fill bolt I've lookes jacked the car up and looked and there is 1 bolt but its really small and pretty low on the transmission the car is a 97 gst
@RSXKane The drain bolt on manual transmission cars should be at the lowest point of the transmission case when the car is level. It's a huge bolt. 24mm or 15/16" I think. I have another video about AWD fluids that covers this in less detail, but in 1080 HD. It's in my Trans & Clutch series.
I think my car doesnt have much gear oil left, i have the same car as you except its a GST, it won't go into gear anymore meaning it wont move, i had a "mechanic" tell me it was the slave cylinder, which i replaced already and it still doesnt work, I'm gonna try to see if it has oil or not, i know metal shit is gonna come out because when first learning to drive standard i grinded the bears a bit too much
@orgasmoman69 Yes, absolutely. Or it could be low. BUT... If you change the gear oil with the recommended fluid and it still shifts like a Choda Boy, that indicates the syncro's are worn. Changing to a different fluid might resolve the issue.
A small amount of friction is actually necessary in a manual transmission. When you shift, it's what lets the syncros do their jobs to change the speeds of the gearshafts so you can easily shift. If the gear oil is too slippery, they might not work.
good advice man im going to do this on my 1999 eclipse only feed back in my opinion is clean ur working area u dont want your parts with dirt and shit
Hi I would like to ask a question i got new car but after few almost a year of driving the reverse gear start jerking...Whenever reverse every morning its just jerking quite hard.
Does that got something to do with gear oil not enough?
@StickGuy0000000001 Actually, I don't know? TRE always installs them, and I've been through 3 of their transmissions... so somewhere along the line it happened. I don't know if the stock plug is magnetic? TRE sells them as replacement parts. Not sure if it's an OEM part, or if he modifies them, but you can order it by itself.
I have a 1997 3000gt SOHC 5 speed. What happens if you don't change the gear oil? I'm going to replace my soon, but I think the effects of not changing the gear oil are already happening, such as hard and rough shifting..
@Dosalt I'm positive that it is possible to remove any car's drain/fill plugs. Perhaps you've run into an aluminum oil pan? If so, the process is still the same, but you have to be careful not to strip the bolt or the pan when installing and removing the plugs. Those pans are expensive to replace. EricTheCarGuy covered this sort of thing. The way you asked your question sounds like you've found a bolt you don't have a tool for, like a 10-point socket or a Torx? You'd just need the tool.
Hey jafro i have a few questions. Why do you claim that the synchroshift is not the optimal choice for street use? Are you running aftermarket drivetrain parts? Would it be bad for me to use synchroshift in my stock tranney on my dd/playtoy? The team rip site recommended the REDLINE 80W-140 GL-5 GEAR OIL for drag use, do you think it would be safe for my stock dd’s center diff and rear end? And although im sure your tired of reading, what is your name.. for future questions ( many to come)
@coheed0000 Synchroshift is a synthetic oil (slippery) WITH friction modifiers. Synchros need friction to work. If you've got a well worn and broken in gearbox, then the oil tolerances are slightly-increased and the synchros may be polished and less-effective at changing the gearset speeds when shifting. Synchroshift is a good fluid in that case because it's more abrasive, but would bee too abrasive for a new tight gearbox with new synchros causing them to wear prematurely.
@coheed0000 ...and yes, I have lots of upgraded drivetrain parts. Not aftermarket, really, because they're out of an EVO III, but I do have aftermarket synchros and some custom stainless parts.
The Redline gear oils have a lot of Teflon and it tends to separate out of the oil mixture as it breaks down. It needs to be changed frequently. A race car's maintenance usually involves changing fluids before each race. You'd be better off with MT-90, Motul Gear 300, or OEM Diaqueen for a DD.
@youclickhereyoudie There is a lot of discussion about this because in '98 supposedly Chrysler began using ATF+4 rather than the recommended synthetic 75W-80, claiming it doesn't work well with the fibrous synchro material in the T-350 transmission. But it's been exposed as a cost-saving alternative rather than a good alternative. The company who built the transmission recommends Amsoil Synchromesh full synthetic 5w-30 MTF. They bottle lists the T-350 first in the list of recommended trannys.
@DAGSRSTINKS Yes, it's the gearbox breather, but like the reverse switch, the hole beneath it into the transmission is VERY tiny so it takes a looong time to fill in comparison. Still, those locations come in very handy if the fill bolt is seized. But be careful which one you use because several of the rubber plugs (L-shaped rubber w/ round attaching flanges) on the outer case are bell housing breathers, and you REALLY REALLY REALLY don't want to fill oil up in there. That would be horrible.
Since you change yours often, this might not apply to you, but people doing it the first time should ALWAYS loosen the fill plug FIRST. Finding out that the fill plug is stuck/seized on tight after draining the tranny fluid can be very annoying to say the least.
I'm going to try doing this on my 2001 Spyder, wonder if it's ever been done. Still shifts ok but starting to get a little noisy. Learning about the difference between API GL-5 and GL-4 was time consuming. Service manual said GL-4 but no local places sales GL-4 specifically instead have GL-5. Ended up buying Redline MT90 75w -90w because it was the GL-4 I could afford. Thanks for the video post it's exactly what I needed. Picked up one of those filling things for $4 at Advanced.
Specialty tube attachment like in the vid didn't work with the Red Line bottles. Had to transfer oil from Red Line bottles to regular oil qt, then ran tube down from top of engine into hole. Been easier to have used funnel with tube on it 2 begin with Service manual was a joke, drain plug was in a totally different place than showed in service manual. Drain magnet plug was covered in sludge and metal shavings, not good. Oil gushed out drain plug, like fountain.
i put my Pennzoil synchromesh in today and whow what a difference my old oil smelled burnt. :( my drain bolt was on the side of my trans. good news was no metal shavings cars got 120 k im happy it runs strong.
Actually I never really got under it. You can just reach through the wheel well to get the drain plug. You're 6'4", you can reach that fill plug without getting under it, too. :) I never even took a wheel off. But yeah, I agree, safety first!
Another Great video Jafromobile! Thanks for making it. Looking forward to the transfercase and rear end videos soon. Hey, check your messages.. I sent you one recently. I'm kinda stuck on my build right now and could use your advice. Thanks again!
Thanks man! This car is so lucky I own it, but it's getting self-conscious because so many people have seen its private parts. This is all the reassurance it needs. :)
I'm bionic. Half cyborg. I have computer chips embedded in my optic nerve with a readout, and torque sensors in my sack. They click when I hit the right pressure. I'm tellin' you, this is pain to make for you guys.
I'll be doing a transfer case and rear differential video kinda soon. I wanted to put it in a different video since it won't apply to FWD, but everything else was the same.
Its the fill plug I can't find I have to assume its on the side but the one I can find isn't even close to 17mm
RSXKane 2 months ago
@RSXKane The fill bolt is on the front of the transmission (if you're standing at the front of the car). It's oriented about 8" up from where the fill bolt is, and should be directly to the left of the shift fork.
The bolts you don't want to risk taking loose are the 3 14mm bolts lined up with each other. There are spring loaded ball bearings behind them. The fill bolt is by itself.
Jafromobile 2 months ago
@Jafromobile i finally found the right bolts but it looks nothing like yours the drain plug is on the back side of the transmission but it didnt really fix my issue it helped a little with the new syncromesh oil but some times its still tough as hell to get in to first
could this be a broken mount? i think perhaps the one on the back side of the motor is broken and maybe everything is miss alined by a small amount
thx for the help before and any help u can give me
RSXKane 2 weeks ago
I'm trying to do a fluid swap but I can't see the fill bolt I've lookes jacked the car up and looked and there is 1 bolt but its really small and pretty low on the transmission the car is a 97 gst
RSXKane 2 months ago
@RSXKane The drain bolt on manual transmission cars should be at the lowest point of the transmission case when the car is level. It's a huge bolt. 24mm or 15/16" I think. I have another video about AWD fluids that covers this in less detail, but in 1080 HD. It's in my Trans & Clutch series.
Jafromobile 2 months ago
I think my car doesnt have much gear oil left, i have the same car as you except its a GST, it won't go into gear anymore meaning it wont move, i had a "mechanic" tell me it was the slave cylinder, which i replaced already and it still doesnt work, I'm gonna try to see if it has oil or not, i know metal shit is gonna come out because when first learning to drive standard i grinded the bears a bit too much
chris2756832 2 months ago
I have an 87 nissan nivara 4wd manual. Changing gears up is fine but changing down in2 2nd and 1st is really hard, i really have to force it in.
Could this be because my i need to change the tranny oil?
orgasmoman69 3 months ago
@orgasmoman69 Yes, absolutely. Or it could be low. BUT... If you change the gear oil with the recommended fluid and it still shifts like a Choda Boy, that indicates the syncro's are worn. Changing to a different fluid might resolve the issue.
A small amount of friction is actually necessary in a manual transmission. When you shift, it's what lets the syncros do their jobs to change the speeds of the gearshafts so you can easily shift. If the gear oil is too slippery, they might not work.
Jafromobile 3 months ago
Looks efficiently done!
gerjaison 3 months ago
good advice man im going to do this on my 1999 eclipse only feed back in my opinion is clean ur working area u dont want your parts with dirt and shit
MrDumess 3 months ago
Hi I would like to ask a question i got new car but after few almost a year of driving the reverse gear start jerking...Whenever reverse every morning its just jerking quite hard.
Does that got something to do with gear oil not enough?
CheapAntivirus 6 months ago
Thanks man. easy to follow and understand.
TheDSMsucka 7 months ago
Thanks. Great advice.
jkelly6620 9 months ago
do they come stock with the magnetic cap or is that something you put in yourself?
StickGuy0000000001 10 months ago
@StickGuy0000000001 Actually, I don't know? TRE always installs them, and I've been through 3 of their transmissions... so somewhere along the line it happened. I don't know if the stock plug is magnetic? TRE sells them as replacement parts. Not sure if it's an OEM part, or if he modifies them, but you can order it by itself.
Jafromobile 10 months ago
MONSTER energy :D
omartron 10 months ago
I have a 1997 3000gt SOHC 5 speed. What happens if you don't change the gear oil? I'm going to replace my soon, but I think the effects of not changing the gear oil are already happening, such as hard and rough shifting..
godrilla 11 months ago
is it possible to remove drain/fill plugs on a gm such as a mustang, or is it " dealer only" as usual.
Dosalt 11 months ago
@Dosalt I'm positive that it is possible to remove any car's drain/fill plugs. Perhaps you've run into an aluminum oil pan? If so, the process is still the same, but you have to be careful not to strip the bolt or the pan when installing and removing the plugs. Those pans are expensive to replace. EricTheCarGuy covered this sort of thing. The way you asked your question sounds like you've found a bolt you don't have a tool for, like a 10-point socket or a Torx? You'd just need the tool.
Jafromobile 11 months ago
Hey jafro i have a few questions. Why do you claim that the synchroshift is not the optimal choice for street use? Are you running aftermarket drivetrain parts? Would it be bad for me to use synchroshift in my stock tranney on my dd/playtoy? The team rip site recommended the REDLINE 80W-140 GL-5 GEAR OIL for drag use, do you think it would be safe for my stock dd’s center diff and rear end? And although im sure your tired of reading, what is your name.. for future questions ( many to come)
coheed0000 11 months ago
@coheed0000 Synchroshift is a synthetic oil (slippery) WITH friction modifiers. Synchros need friction to work. If you've got a well worn and broken in gearbox, then the oil tolerances are slightly-increased and the synchros may be polished and less-effective at changing the gearset speeds when shifting. Synchroshift is a good fluid in that case because it's more abrasive, but would bee too abrasive for a new tight gearbox with new synchros causing them to wear prematurely.
Jafromobile 11 months ago
@coheed0000 ...and yes, I have lots of upgraded drivetrain parts. Not aftermarket, really, because they're out of an EVO III, but I do have aftermarket synchros and some custom stainless parts.
The Redline gear oils have a lot of Teflon and it tends to separate out of the oil mixture as it breaks down. It needs to be changed frequently. A race car's maintenance usually involves changing fluids before each race. You'd be better off with MT-90, Motul Gear 300, or OEM Diaqueen for a DD.
Jafromobile 11 months ago
great advice
and great video
funny to
tracy2888 11 months ago
Hey I was looking for how to change gear oil on my 2g dsm and found this video. It sure help alot. Thanks.
4turboboost 1 year ago
GREAT VID!!!
Mwink1975 1 year ago
do you think you could make a video on changing the transfer case fluid and rear diff fluid please and thank you
talon2323 1 year ago
do you know what kind of fluid to use in a 99 eclipse gs
youclickhereyoudie 1 year ago
@youclickhereyoudie There is a lot of discussion about this because in '98 supposedly Chrysler began using ATF+4 rather than the recommended synthetic 75W-80, claiming it doesn't work well with the fibrous synchro material in the T-350 transmission. But it's been exposed as a cost-saving alternative rather than a good alternative. The company who built the transmission recommends Amsoil Synchromesh full synthetic 5w-30 MTF. They bottle lists the T-350 first in the list of recommended trannys.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
4:20 I jumped at the comical wip sound
Veikra 1 year ago
excellent
Rico8458 1 year ago
24MM!! Good for me, I have one!!
thomcasey2005 1 year ago
ON TOP OF THE TRANNY THEIRS A RUBBER PLUG THATS WHERE I FULL MY TRANNY GEAR OIL AT
DAGSRSTINKS 1 year ago
@DAGSRSTINKS Yes, it's the gearbox breather, but like the reverse switch, the hole beneath it into the transmission is VERY tiny so it takes a looong time to fill in comparison. Still, those locations come in very handy if the fill bolt is seized. But be careful which one you use because several of the rubber plugs (L-shaped rubber w/ round attaching flanges) on the outer case are bell housing breathers, and you REALLY REALLY REALLY don't want to fill oil up in there. That would be horrible.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
Since you change yours often, this might not apply to you, but people doing it the first time should ALWAYS loosen the fill plug FIRST. Finding out that the fill plug is stuck/seized on tight after draining the tranny fluid can be very annoying to say the least.
RustyXIII 1 year ago 4
THANK YA..!!!!
BigBelly1972 1 year ago
very entertaining, kept me watching. Thanks for the info! One of the few youtubers I enjoy watching
GeneralCracka 1 year ago
What a filthy engine!
vio919 1 year ago
I'm going to try doing this on my 2001 Spyder, wonder if it's ever been done. Still shifts ok but starting to get a little noisy. Learning about the difference between API GL-5 and GL-4 was time consuming. Service manual said GL-4 but no local places sales GL-4 specifically instead have GL-5. Ended up buying Redline MT90 75w -90w because it was the GL-4 I could afford. Thanks for the video post it's exactly what I needed. Picked up one of those filling things for $4 at Advanced.
sexcation 1 year ago
Specialty tube attachment like in the vid didn't work with the Red Line bottles. Had to transfer oil from Red Line bottles to regular oil qt, then ran tube down from top of engine into hole. Been easier to have used funnel with tube on it 2 begin with Service manual was a joke, drain plug was in a totally different place than showed in service manual. Drain magnet plug was covered in sludge and metal shavings, not good. Oil gushed out drain plug, like fountain.
sexcation 1 year ago
Awesome video, thank you.
Uriel585 1 year ago
i put my Pennzoil synchromesh in today and whow what a difference my old oil smelled burnt. :( my drain bolt was on the side of my trans. good news was no metal shavings cars got 120 k im happy it runs strong.
djdarkmunk 1 year ago
Gheez man, Where are the jack stands when your under that car? SAFETY!! love the silicon hose whip sound. haha
Grescht 1 year ago
Actually I never really got under it. You can just reach through the wheel well to get the drain plug. You're 6'4", you can reach that fill plug without getting under it, too. :) I never even took a wheel off. But yeah, I agree, safety first!
Jafromobile 1 year ago
Another Great video Jafromobile! Thanks for making it. Looking forward to the transfercase and rear end videos soon. Hey, check your messages.. I sent you one recently. I'm kinda stuck on my build right now and could use your advice. Thanks again!
shawnmgarcia 1 year ago
lol at the sound effects, parts store clip, and torque spec's being met! Keep up the hard work!
Running925 1 year ago
your videos are awesome and very helpful,
thanks for the uploads:)
RubberDuckieXcore 1 year ago
Thanks man! This car is so lucky I own it, but it's getting self-conscious because so many people have seen its private parts. This is all the reassurance it needs. :)
Jafromobile 1 year ago
i got scared on this part lmao 4:22
CHIPYCHIPYLOVE 1 year ago
I love that precision torque wrench. Grew it your self?
Epix182 1 year ago
I'm bionic. Half cyborg. I have computer chips embedded in my optic nerve with a readout, and torque sensors in my sack. They click when I hit the right pressure. I'm tellin' you, this is pain to make for you guys.
Jafromobile 1 year ago
another grate vid keep em coming i have 3 bottles of pennzoil synchromesh i planed on doing this task but i had no clue where to start now i know
djdarkmunk 1 year ago
I'll be doing a transfer case and rear differential video kinda soon. I wanted to put it in a different video since it won't apply to FWD, but everything else was the same.
Jafromobile 1 year ago