Pruning Fruit Trees - Pruning For The First 4 Years, Part 2 of 2

[yosu76]

very useful, I thank

[rabelad]

(Read my comments starting from the bottom and work up. I can only respond with up to 500 characters per comment so there's no choice but to answer with separate postings. Sorry!)

[rabelad]

It also depends on how much wood will be sacrificed for this change. Another factor is the expected life span of the tree. Sweet cherries last only 20-25 years so doing such a switch at 4 years old is not worth it. European plums can go for 40-60 years with good care so that might be a consideration. Apples can go for 40 years so I might consider it for them.

[rabelad]

To start all over the tree would need an abundance of compost in the dormant season applied to the radius of the entire tree so that it would get a lot of food which would encourage strong growth. (continued...)

[rabelad]

That would be kinda drastic to cut a 4 year old tree back as there may not be enough buds that low to reasonably expect strong sideways growth from the trunk. As time goes on the active buds, microscopic in size, die out and so the tree is not likely to respond with a flush of sideways growth which would be needed to start a goblet shape. (continued...)

[rabelad]

I prefer the goblet because it allows more light into the interior of the tree which colors the fruit much better and it dries out the middle of the tree quicker which decreases the chance of fungal infections. (Continued...)

[rabelad]

Thank you for your compliment! I’m sorry to have taken so long to get back to you. Rest assured that I get every comment and will respond. This is pruning season so it’s a busy time for me.

The goblet shape is well suited to all the deciduous fruit trees and it has many advantages, but there is the central leader option where one main branch heads straight up and we prune to encourage side growth and that serves as the base for the foliage and fruit production. (continued...)

[cakewalkconfections]

That was really helpful, thank you.

I'm not sure if you're going to see this, but I was wondering is the cup/vase form applicable to all fruit trees? Also, I have some 4 year old trees, and I haven't really done anything to train their shape, is it okay to start with step one (cutting it about knee high) now?

Thanks so much again. I will look forward to your tutorials!

[Nene1192]

Thank you so much for your advice which is obviously very knowledgable. It helps a novice like me to take on growing my own fruit.

[rabelad]

Absolutely! Although we're significantly farther south that the UK, we're at 31-degrees north in latitude, we live in the Judean Mountains at 950 meters in elevation. So we get snow on the average of 1.5 times a year and have a temperate climate that is quite suitable for growing apples and sweet cherries, both of which need lots of winter cold hours, as many as you'd get in the English Midlands.

[jebernerc]

very clear.........just starting my own mini orchard on my allotment, will these methods be ok in the uk climate?

[SwabThePo0pdeck]

Very helpful. Thank you.