Sonnie campus boarding

[MrRizo223]

My girlfreind seems to love my increased hand strength. ;)

[JewishFood]

@MrRizo223 LOL

[MrRizo223]

@JewishFood Oh no he didn't. ;)

[lopside0]

lats and hands lats and hands :)

[kilgour22]

I like how you don't even use your little finger a lot of the time and still make the moves look easy.

[fgonz007]

what is the purpose of the high lockoffs?

[smeghead666]

@fgonz007 do you mean the fully locked off arms? if so, it helps for that moment where you pull all the way up to reach for a distant hold that suddenly dissappears and the following slapping/scrambling to desperately find yourself another :P

[Anhslaught]

@fgonz007

Extra reach. Take it from me. I'm really short, am only 5'2 and reaching is a huge problem for me. The stronger my lock off, the further I can reach. :)

[RobbieChopSticks]

Hero

[cwdellar]

Please say you didnt film this all in one go? You nutter if you did

[ClimbingChrispy]

Sonnie is amazing, this ladies and gentlemen is why he is probably the best trad climber to date. Didn't he climb a 5.14d completely clean?

Also I love how he kisses the hold when he's in his lock off position, I imagine him thinking, "Thank you beautiful hold for turning me into a complete badass."

[brendanedwards3]

If you use an open grip it will increase your crimp strength but not vise versa.

[marvinblaster]

he shouldnt be close handing on the campus board...gonna pull something...but w/e theyre his fingers...

[Thomasikzelf]

should i do this with 3 fingers or with my pinky??

[yournotmydad]

dude thomas on smaller ones use three and OPEN HAND or youll get hurt

[Thomasikzelf]

thanks:D

[hansullrich7]

fucking legit eh

[CordBB]

I mean the types of grip on the smallest ones. Bow? Arc? Curve? Tie? Any of that?

[xtonyx76]

You mean crimp?

[CordBB]

Help me- what are the types of grips in english on campus? not open, closed, but u know... ;-)

[gaiariver]

BEEF for sure!! Nice work Sonnie, would like to see your climb.

Do you people know a what is good for you when recover from a work out??

[cooperbm93]

na man if your a beginner don't do this. you can really mess up your tendons if your not ready : )

[thejugglingfool]

nice power!!!!!!

note to beginneres... if you can't do at least 15 chin ups or have just started climbing do something else. You'll hurt yourself

[geekotron]

i climb 5.10s and i cant do 15 chins up in a row... and its a good work out for people who wants to build up their climbing muscle even though they are beginners...!

[thejugglingfool]

yes but beginners tend to have weak fingers anf can sprain pull injure etc them easily

[BewareOfOranges]

number of pull ups someone can do wont always reflect their level of climbing was the point geekotron was trying to make

[TheNeb11]

utahphunk

you stop yelling lmao

[swanseakid14]

DO FREERUNNING/PARKOUR

[utahphunk]

STOP YELLING

[snowyywwinters]

great training, going start doing this daily. sonnie trotter is the master!:D

[PureRockenEuzo]

not bad man

[AintNothingButAThang]

Respect!

[chiragshah5001]

NICE!!! my hands got sweaty just watching that.

What grade stuff do you climb? Also tips for starters? I can barley go up the easy one.

[goobey99]

If you just started climbing stay away from the campus boards, they will injury your hands.

campus boards are only good for climbers who already have the tendons in their hand strong enough to take the forearm training.

best thing i can tell you if you are having problems on easy climbs is to work on your footwork. Footwork alone will get you the 5.8 / 5.9 levels, but you will never be climbing higher than that if your don't have the basic foo moves down.

[chiragshah5001]

Hi,

Well I climb around 5.10b/c already, and have pretty good footwork. I was looking for tips on strengthing my tendons.

[utahphunk]

The guys that think and write about this stuff a lot pretty much agree that campusing and hangboarding are *not* worth your time until you're climbing about 5.12 sport or bouldering about V6.

Until then, your best bang for the buck is to just climb more. Your body needs to learn movement and better footwork first. Do oppositional & core training, too.

Everyone starts out climbing thinking they need more grip strength, but if their technique were better, they could climb harder instantly.

[hatedrivesus]

true and false

i feel as though right around the 5.11 range close to being a solid 5.11 climber

that my campus training was critcal along with everything else

[utahphunk]

The experienced climbing community would disagree with you.

[hatedrivesus]

lol your a tool probably cant even climb

[cmacblue42]

@utahphunk yeah definitley agreed, although i think the campus board and hangboard should be introduced, though not utilized fully, around V4 then begin real training on them around V6... The best thing for all levels of people, from sub v2 to the best in the world is just playing points, where you tell yourself you will get 50 points in one hour or 30 minutes, and each grade is worth that number of points (v6=6 points, V0=.5, etc) and you can modify it to make things much harder or much easier.

[stephenTcartwright]

@utahphunk I don't think the guy in this vid can complain about lack of grip strength. The stuff he is doing is incredible! In my first year of climbing i did hang and campus board training most days and climbed about 3 times a week and it helped me improve very quickly, but you are right, i reached a limit very quickly also. 2 yrs later my technique has improved greatly and I have started campus and hang training again as i noticed my strength is starting to lack on overhangs.

[gerardo231]

@utahphunk i climb 13b and i think im still not ready for campusing but obviously it has to do that im just 16 and been climbing for 2 years..

[StreetvibeDnB]

@gerardo231 If u climb 13b u should be able to campus board no problem. im the same age as you and have no trouble.

[hilljd03]

@utahphunk Funny, because if they had better grip strength they'd also climb better instantly. You can still train for climbing even if you can't climb 5.12, you just have to modify the workout so it fits your level. You can't campus like Sonnie Trotter if you climb 5.10, but you can certainly do more than just climb. I think technique is easy to learn, but grip strength takes forever. Climb outside and train inside.

[utahphunk]

@hilljd03 If novice/intermediate climbers have the energy/skin/recovery/time to train grip strength, they would *still* be better off using that energy to train in a way that also improves their technique: climbing.

You said you "think technique is easy to learn, but grip strength takes forever." That's just not true. Climbing gyms are full of people with great grip strength that goes to waste because they have shitty footwork, etc. Read some books on the topic, they *all* agree on this point.

[MakeFoodNow]

@utahphunk Depends. I'm an intermediate climber (~low 5.11) and I'm thinking about getting a hangboard for my place, but that's because in a given week, I might have a lot of opportunities where I have enough time to do a workout at home, but not enough time to get to the gym (much less an actual crag).

On the other hand, when I DID have time to get to the gym 3/4 days a week, I could crank really hard routes for strength, or climb below my limit to focus on technique, didn't need a hangboard.

[TheBigdowgz]

@utahphunk if you dont have time during the week then strength training like that is a good idea surely

[hatedrivesus]

start with doing pull ups on holds that you can hold but are not the best

do slow perfect pull ups

if you can do 15 perfect slow motion pull ups you wil get noticable stronger

do the same thing on many different holds

theres alot more to do but this is really good

lock lock lock off

[Screamer1989]

neat

[clayounderwood]

lol my palms got sweaty and my arms got pumped just watching!

[flowctrl]

My fingers are sore just watching.

[prairiemantis]

damn bro, you ready for k2? all kidding aside very impressive

[adventureskope]

so so strong! cool vid!

[rawbin510]

Makes me get my ass up for training every time I watch it....nice methods and video-very inspirational-thanks a lot!

[cire010]

fucking badass trainging spot.

Those small rungs are the smallest I have ever seen.

[1ntr1nz1c]

inspirational

[boxsterwelby]

wow!  I can't do triples on jugs.

[cheerish87]

Amazing stuff.  Very inspiring

[turmat01]

holy crap that is amazing. I have a hard time just to hang from the easiest wooden crimp from these campus boards! this guy is totally amazing!

I still have troubles climbing some 5.8... I'm sure he would do them without feet! lol.

[climb2freak]

unbelievable... What grade do you climb?

Greetz

[pekur009]

5.14d. do you not know who sonnie trotter is?

[bxrockstar]

gonna start my training now!! This guy sure can crank!

[unchapulin]

this maybe look good, but are´t good

...see, if you wanna a great results, you can see that the video guy do all goin up, and he can`t do it the same moves going down ¿¿why??...

because is more hard doing the exersise go down, practice and see the results, and for teh video guy, is a good job, but do guin up like you like, but the hardes is when you go down, so please, training the down, and the extra weigth, use befor, not after, and you feel tha change.....

[Silumnet]

lol...please google sonnie trotter

[rawbin510]

LOL-hilarious!

[CDPuffer]

shaaaaddddap

[iainguitarman]

impressive!

nice 1-4-7!

respect

E

[bluecobalt27]

Lol, 'start of easy'. That's me out, then! Great video. Amazing skills.

Why do you come down from the lock-offs slow like that? The ones at the 5:30 mark. Is that safer?

I think the writing down part is a good idea too.

[shinjinMC]

its harder to go down slow

[marvinblaster]

also builds lock off strength when going slowly.

[stefan55s]

hey,

know somebody the music title which come after 4:16? Find this sound amazing.

[invisticone69]

The group is apocalyptica, I forget the title.

[dcsbasstard]

Its Apocalyptica's cover of Metallica's "the Unforgiven"

[matthewmovement]

I'm jealous. I think I might have to make one of those myself. =]

[Funkychunkymonkey33]

hey if i were to build on of these what are the width of the rungs and about how tall would it have to be?

[CordBB]

Best climbing movie i have ever seen.

[joswald642]

Very impressive and im very jealous of the training facility.

[doublee10]

damn nice gym

[KingOfGum]

woah that is insane totally schocked

[bicakdoven]

very useful for training. thanks alot. the rest period between campusng and the deadhangs? and in a week period how many times are you traing like this. some power traing. is it the only thing or are you training for endurance too? thanks for the reply. thanks from türkiye.

[iluluu]

One session per week is ok for intermediate climbers. Rest 5 minutes or more, to find yourself ready for the next Campus set. For endurance is good to do 5 sets of 3 minutes non stop climbing with 1 minute rest between sets. Train in a way: Day 1 Power (campus, boulders, etc), D2 Endurance, D3 Rest, D4 Power, D5 Endurance, D6 and D7 Rest. Good luck

[climb2freak]

so f*cking nice

i guess he can climb lovely!

dammit!!

[psycobill]

This is at Vsion climbing gym in Canmore, Alberta like it says

[SandraHernandez]

Do you pinch them?

[FORERUNNER1170]

yeah dude thats his house....hes like one of the head people from patagonia

[consciousconscience]

is that YOUR house?

[davidecheverri]

Hey Sonnie, Excelent material, very motivational...

David / BC

[danmihaifilip]

hi sonnie,

can you tell me the widths of the 3 rung types, please :)

thanks

[androgyne77]

Nice work out!  It would be gr8 to know the rest time in between as well... just curious

[kolyougotthesilver]

Christ must take years before being able to do all that.