Looks like the shaft needs to be drilled and bushed the shaft will wear out the shaft hole and allow an air leak that will cause a lean air fuel mixture
@neoholland I switch out the 34 PICT 3 carburetor for dual dellorto DRLA carburetors. i think the problem was a vacuum leak, and poorly adjusted carburetor. but mostly vacuum leak
It boggled me before too why that manifold would freeze up but it helped make sense when they talk about the damaging effects of lean fuel mixtures in high performance engines. By the way, were you able to figure what;s causing the slow return to idle and the random rev ups?
@ChuddleBuggy I'm almost sure it must have been a vacuum leak. I now know how to tune that carb a little better now too.. manuals say to start with the tiny mixture screw in 2-3 turns, but i could not for the life of me get it to idle until i turned it out like 5 turns, then it ran great (except for having the clogged preheat manifolds. The preheat is SUPER important if you run ur engine in temps under "t-shirt and shorts" temp.
@turneralissa100 motor mounts is really a misnomer in this case, because they are really located under the rear (front is front of car) edge of the transmission. You can't change these without removing the whole engine.. and off the top of my head, i don't know if you can see them w/o removing the engine.
i have a 71 superbeetle my first question is how important are the 2 hoses that connect to the fan shroud ?? i see you dont have yours hooked up and my second question is my car makes a loud knocking noise when the engine is being cranked over and after it starts up but seems to quiet down some when i give it the gas do you have any suggetions?? thankyou all for your time
@turneralissa100 The two hoses are for your heater. mine is hooked up now, but not in these videos. As for the knocking, it's hard for me to say exactly what it IS without really hearing it for myself. if you can put up a video of it, that would help a lot. it could be anything from a loose engine mounting bolt to a rod knock (VERY BAD) BUT if it doesn't make the knock while you're running the engine then its not a rod knock so don't be trippin
@super71beetle so when i ran the car around the block a couple of times without the hoses hooked up i shouldnt of done any damage to the motor by not having the hoses hooked up. i sure hope not
@turneralissa100 actually, if you have heater boxes, you SHOULD keep those hoses there because i guess they keep them from overheating, whether you're running the heater or not. i'm sending a pm so you'll know the differences.. with solutions
@super71beetle well my 71 superbeetle doesnt have the heater boxes never has since i owned the car the hoses just went down into the shield that has the 2 holes in it and blew the air on the ground they were very old and fallin apart is why i didnt have them on the car . thank you for your time ill write more later heading to work
im not sure if it says it anywhere else in the comments, and after more than a year you probably have it fixed, but i'd guess a vacuum leak... mine sounded just like that, and turned out to be a tiny rip the the intake boot
@newtypenick I agree, because i think that the 3/4 head intake surface might be warped, because i seem to have this vacuum leak, even with my dual dells right now, on that side. Haha.... listening to this video now is PAINFUL, the valves were sooo loose.
@super71beetle hmmm.. ive never had anything warp on me, even though bugs are so damn simple theres still a bunch of places vaccum leaks can happen, but it cant be toooo bad, cause it still idles smooth, but i dunno, theyre called bugs for a reason, what did they expect?? for bugs to just be driven?!?! haha, i have problems with my stock 1600 all the time, newest one is it gas fouling plugs every week, my carb is about shot, no matter how its tuned it runs rich... damn vws haha
allo, allways use 1% two stroke oil API TC in your fuel to protect engine against fuel system corrosion caused by too much alcohol into the modern ultra dry eco fuels.
HI, sounds like the carburator is out of adjustment? have you tried turning the mixture screw? have you jetted any on the carb? sounds lean may want to go up a size on your idle jets? also the rubber boots on each intake manifold tube may be leaking air?? try tightening the band clamps on them, what kind of carb is it??
hi, i have a 71 super and i want to build up to a 1641, did u use slip in barrels or did u use barrels that required machining. and if u used slip in barrels, have u had any problems with them over heating
@brandonboards1 never had overheating problems... there's only one way to upgrade to 1641: with slip ins. you can do either slip-in or machine-in on the next size up - 88mm. I DONT recommend using slip in 88mm. but lots of people use slip in 87mm (1641) Don't expect a huge performance increase just from putting on the 87mm pistons/cylinders though.. the best bang for your buck is DEFINITELY buying dual Dellorto DRLA's or Weber IDF's. I'm sure kadrons are nice too but i have no experience with em
Try driving the car UP a steep hill. If it hesitates or even cuts out and stops I would put down to The Carburettor float getting jammed. It looks like your carby is an after market Solex Pict 30/31 made by Brosal. I had this problem and had the float replaced from a second hand carby . Since then I have never looked back.
See, on my car I have the idle switch set exactly like that, but it dies after about 15 seconds when I have it at 2500 RPM. Am I adjusting it wrong? I desperately need help here.
A little late now, since you went with dual carbs, but in this case the idle circuit was way too lean causing you to have to raise the idle screw to the point where the advance port was starting to open, keeping vacuum on the vac. advance on the distributor. That's why it was taking so long to decelerate. Even on a stock motor, the Bosch 009 works a lot better than the stock unit with the vacuum advance.
that exhaust is really restrictive, cut off those tail pipes and clamp om some new ones with no baffels. The sound is much better and the car performs better all around.
Throtle body shaft on the solex carby could be worn and oil and dirt making it sticky. Put a can of carby cleaner through it. Mine was doing same kinda thing as yours. I ended up replacing the whole carby cause it was 40 years old with a new Brosol Made in Brasil and have never looked back.
i cleaned and rebuilt it before i put it on the engine. I had a new brazilian one that straightup wouldn't idle by itself (had to keep it running by pumpin the throttle)
Another Brazilian failure - no surprise. They're pretty hit-and-miss.
Try the Samba forums yet? I can't speak much on the stock Solex carbs (or their variants), but there's a bunch of guys who really know their stuff on there. Might be worth fixing in case the Dells don't work out for you.
actually all you have to do to fix the problem is turn out the pilot (idle) jet until it runs good and locktite it at that position. (i found this on thesamba)
Looks like the shaft needs to be drilled and bushed the shaft will wear out the shaft hole and allow an air leak that will cause a lean air fuel mixture
wildfyre02 2 months ago
did you fix this problem mate? what was it??
neoholland 8 months ago
@neoholland I switch out the 34 PICT 3 carburetor for dual dellorto DRLA carburetors. i think the problem was a vacuum leak, and poorly adjusted carburetor. but mostly vacuum leak
super71beetle 8 months ago
It boggled me before too why that manifold would freeze up but it helped make sense when they talk about the damaging effects of lean fuel mixtures in high performance engines. By the way, were you able to figure what;s causing the slow return to idle and the random rev ups?
ChuddleBuggy 8 months ago
@ChuddleBuggy I'm almost sure it must have been a vacuum leak. I now know how to tune that carb a little better now too.. manuals say to start with the tiny mixture screw in 2-3 turns, but i could not for the life of me get it to idle until i turned it out like 5 turns, then it ran great (except for having the clogged preheat manifolds. The preheat is SUPER important if you run ur engine in temps under "t-shirt and shorts" temp.
super71beetle 8 months ago
sounds to me like yur valves are really loose
kingpin272000 1 year ago
@kingpin272000 they were... see any of my videos of after i adjusted them?
super71beetle 1 year ago
well it appears my motor is blown so now my tax money this year is going to be spent on a new motor do you have any suggestions on where to buy one??
turneralissa100 1 year ago
where would the motor mounts be the only mounts i know of are the 4 bolts that hold the motor to the transmission or transaxle
turneralissa100 1 year ago
@turneralissa100 motor mounts is really a misnomer in this case, because they are really located under the rear (front is front of car) edge of the transmission. You can't change these without removing the whole engine.. and off the top of my head, i don't know if you can see them w/o removing the engine.
super71beetle 1 year ago
i have a 71 superbeetle my first question is how important are the 2 hoses that connect to the fan shroud ?? i see you dont have yours hooked up and my second question is my car makes a loud knocking noise when the engine is being cranked over and after it starts up but seems to quiet down some when i give it the gas do you have any suggetions?? thankyou all for your time
turneralissa100 1 year ago
@turneralissa100 The two hoses are for your heater. mine is hooked up now, but not in these videos. As for the knocking, it's hard for me to say exactly what it IS without really hearing it for myself. if you can put up a video of it, that would help a lot. it could be anything from a loose engine mounting bolt to a rod knock (VERY BAD) BUT if it doesn't make the knock while you're running the engine then its not a rod knock so don't be trippin
super71beetle 1 year ago
@super71beetle so when i ran the car around the block a couple of times without the hoses hooked up i shouldnt of done any damage to the motor by not having the hoses hooked up. i sure hope not
turneralissa100 1 year ago
@turneralissa100 actually, if you have heater boxes, you SHOULD keep those hoses there because i guess they keep them from overheating, whether you're running the heater or not. i'm sending a pm so you'll know the differences.. with solutions
super71beetle 1 year ago
@super71beetle well my 71 superbeetle doesnt have the heater boxes never has since i owned the car the hoses just went down into the shield that has the 2 holes in it and blew the air on the ground they were very old and fallin apart is why i didnt have them on the car . thank you for your time ill write more later heading to work
turneralissa100 1 year ago
im not sure if it says it anywhere else in the comments, and after more than a year you probably have it fixed, but i'd guess a vacuum leak... mine sounded just like that, and turned out to be a tiny rip the the intake boot
newtypenick 1 year ago
@newtypenick I agree, because i think that the 3/4 head intake surface might be warped, because i seem to have this vacuum leak, even with my dual dells right now, on that side. Haha.... listening to this video now is PAINFUL, the valves were sooo loose.
super71beetle 1 year ago
@super71beetle hmmm.. ive never had anything warp on me, even though bugs are so damn simple theres still a bunch of places vaccum leaks can happen, but it cant be toooo bad, cause it still idles smooth, but i dunno, theyre called bugs for a reason, what did they expect?? for bugs to just be driven?!?! haha, i have problems with my stock 1600 all the time, newest one is it gas fouling plugs every week, my carb is about shot, no matter how its tuned it runs rich... damn vws haha
newtypenick 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
allo, allways use 1% two stroke oil API TC in your fuel to protect engine against fuel system corrosion caused by too much alcohol into the modern ultra dry eco fuels.
Pnoerre 1 year ago
HI, sounds like the carburator is out of adjustment? have you tried turning the mixture screw? have you jetted any on the carb? sounds lean may want to go up a size on your idle jets? also the rubber boots on each intake manifold tube may be leaking air?? try tightening the band clamps on them, what kind of carb is it??
meandjesus4ever 1 year ago
thanks for the reply. im going with a weber progressive and a 100 or 110 cam with new rockers
brandonboards1 1 year ago
hi, i have a 71 super and i want to build up to a 1641, did u use slip in barrels or did u use barrels that required machining. and if u used slip in barrels, have u had any problems with them over heating
brandonboards1 1 year ago
@brandonboards1 never had overheating problems... there's only one way to upgrade to 1641: with slip ins. you can do either slip-in or machine-in on the next size up - 88mm. I DONT recommend using slip in 88mm. but lots of people use slip in 87mm (1641) Don't expect a huge performance increase just from putting on the 87mm pistons/cylinders though.. the best bang for your buck is DEFINITELY buying dual Dellorto DRLA's or Weber IDF's. I'm sure kadrons are nice too but i have no experience with em
super71beetle 1 year ago
My brother's stock 68 1500 is getting built up to a 1641 as we speak. Be nice to get it on the road again.
laserstun 1 year ago
Try driving the car UP a steep hill. If it hesitates or even cuts out and stops I would put down to The Carburettor float getting jammed. It looks like your carby is an after market Solex Pict 30/31 made by Brosal. I had this problem and had the float replaced from a second hand carby . Since then I have never looked back.
jorologo 1 year ago
Re-tune the card..take it apart n put it back together..check the fast idle screw it shud just be touching the lever
kc28 1 year ago
See, on my car I have the idle switch set exactly like that, but it dies after about 15 seconds when I have it at 2500 RPM. Am I adjusting it wrong? I desperately need help here.
HaloACE56 1 year ago
A little late now, since you went with dual carbs, but in this case the idle circuit was way too lean causing you to have to raise the idle screw to the point where the advance port was starting to open, keeping vacuum on the vac. advance on the distributor. That's why it was taking so long to decelerate. Even on a stock motor, the Bosch 009 works a lot better than the stock unit with the vacuum advance.
lrover03 2 years ago
that exhaust is really restrictive, cut off those tail pipes and clamp om some new ones with no baffels. The sound is much better and the car performs better all around.
herbienbrian 2 years ago
@herbienbrian check out my latest video
super71beetle 2 years ago
i just bought some dual dellortos, so i'm not even worried anymore.
super71beetle 2 years ago
i have the same engine and exhaust setup
MasterPiMp420 2 years ago
Throtle body shaft on the solex carby could be worn and oil and dirt making it sticky. Put a can of carby cleaner through it. Mine was doing same kinda thing as yours. I ended up replacing the whole carby cause it was 40 years old with a new Brosol Made in Brasil and have never looked back.
jorologo 2 years ago
Maybe the coke isn't fully off, Or it's getting stuck.
Or the carb may just need to be cleaned.
roboman79 2 years ago
i cleaned and rebuilt it before i put it on the engine. I had a new brazilian one that straightup wouldn't idle by itself (had to keep it running by pumpin the throttle)
super71beetle 2 years ago
Another Brazilian failure - no surprise. They're pretty hit-and-miss.
Try the Samba forums yet? I can't speak much on the stock Solex carbs (or their variants), but there's a bunch of guys who really know their stuff on there. Might be worth fixing in case the Dells don't work out for you.
Alisterwolf66 2 years ago
actually all you have to do to fix the problem is turn out the pilot (idle) jet until it runs good and locktite it at that position. (i found this on thesamba)
super71beetle 2 years ago