Main Street Electrical Parade in 3D - Part 1 of 2 (yt3d:enable=true)

[hznfrst]

Stop squashing the picture just to fill the screen! It looks awful!

[americangirlluvr1999]

the 3D effects don't work with my 3D glasses. they're the black realD 3D glasses from the movies. anyone know why?

[WDWin3D]

@americangirlluvr1999 Hi! Unfortunately, the realD polarized glasses you get when you go to see a 3D movie in the theaters do not work with YouTube 3D videos. I wish they did... I have a dozen pair laying around the house. I believe a special monitor is required to display a polarized image, which is required for those glasses. If you have some Red/Cyan or Green/Magenta glasses (included with most DVDs that are in 3D,) then you will be able to see the 3D effect.

[Videito003]

@americangirlluvr1999 You fool XD

[Totono3D]

Hi, I´m wondering wht you used for this video, a 3D camera or two cameras? If you use two cameras I have some advice. Place the cameras farther apart, that will increase the 3D effect. Make them converge at one focus point, that will make things "look more round", because that is what we do with our eyes. If you leave the cameras looking straight forward it´s like leaving your eyes lost in the distance. Stereo 3D has been one of my areas of interest for more than 10 years.

[WDWin3D]

@Totono3D Hi, and thanks for the advice! I could really use your help, I'm a total 3D noob and am still trying to figure things out.

I am using 2 cameras. I understand that subjects that are further away need a larger interocular distance... the home-made rig I was using that night just didn't allow it.

Re: convergence... I try to set my midground subject near the point of convergence, but have trouble confirming this in the field... I end up having to 'eyeball' it. Any suggestions?

[Totono3D]

Let me put this in perspective, pretend for a while like you could change in size. If you were small your eyes would be closer together, if you were a giant, your eyes would be further apart. So if you wanted to take pictures of a big place like Disney World, think of it like a scale model. To watch a scale model closely but comfortably you would place your face at about 6 inches away (human eyes are 2 to 3 inches apart).

[WDWin3D]

@Totono3D when I get a little bolder, I do have another home-made rig that allows for a larger interocular distance. The issue is getting the thing inside the park without drawing too much attention, since the thing is pretty much a large, flat piece of steel. Thinking about using Plasti Dip on the thing to make it less menacing looking. To get the 2-4 meters that you mentioned before, though... looks like I'll need another tripod, huh?

[Totono3D]

And for convergence i would suggest you use a compass and try shifting about 5° to 15° depending on where your interest point is.

[Totono3D]

What I said before is more for an "in your face" 3D with the cameras 4 meters apart. Placing the cameras about 2 meters apart can work fine too, with less 3D but good enough. For convergence I look for what is in the center one camera and try to place the same center in the other one too.

[WDWin3D]

@Totono3D awesome. I am just trying to figure out how to dial in the same center point for both cameras. I'm wondering if a dot of red nail polish in the center of both lcd displays might make it easier... maybe point the cameras at some graph paper, one at a time, to determine the center of each frame.

Another Q: Should the point of convergence be in the mid-ground like I've been attempting, or should it be on the object in the frame that is the farthest away?

Thanks again for your help!