@BadRick951 I used plastic cable ties as spacers and 5 neutral cups between each positive and negative connection. Neutral's have no connection, but carry the current from plate through their contact with the electrolyte. The reason for the Neutral cups is to increase the distance between the POS & NEG cups. This regulates the amount of voltage per cup and reduces the amperage. Amperage equals HEAT, so the configuration of the HHO Cell Design is the key to getting better results.
i bought some of these, have not got around to doing anything with them. and i bought some in the phillippines 3 times longer, they keep looking at me to have a try
Actual amperage was 6 Amps. I didn't have an Amp Meter at the time I recorded this video. If you go to my channel and watch Video 17 you will see the reading from the Amp Meter.
It's been a long time since I played with this design, so I should pick it up again and make some modifications to convert it into a Dry Cell. With less water to charge, I may be able to get the Amps even lower.
I love the work you have done. What I realy want to see is a LPM test,, just need a 1 liter bottle, bucket full of water, cap on the cell and tubing. and do it with the test clock in view of the camera and cell.
My son and I will be doing a 7 cup design of our own for his 6th grade science project and will be installing it on a 2000 honda oddessy,, you helped inspire this low budget experiment!!! thanks and keep up the great work.
I noticed some smoke rolling out of the top of the jar. I know you say it only got warm. I dont know if I can believe that. Do you have a thermometer you can run it for 10 minutes maybe 20 or longer and post the result of the temp. I have mad a cell with stainless steel. I feed it with stainless tabs not wire. That way I can move a lot of current with little resistance. Only problem I have is heat. I am going to add some nuetral plates to it. Hopefully this will allow it to run cooler
What you see is vapor, not steam or smoke. This is normal, but less is better.
I don't have a thermometer, but it is a good idea. I will pick one up, so there won't be any question about how hot it is getting.
The configuration I have provides less than 2 Volts per cup. (7 Cups x 2 volts ea = 14 volts) When you hook it up in the car, you will be getting 13.8 volts, so this is the most efficient way I've found to keep the heat down.
In my configuration (+ nn nn nn nn nn -) I uses stacked neutral cups to increase the amount of reactive surface area, and to increase the distance between the Pos & Neg terminals. That is the key to how I keep the heat to a minimum.
I used to have problems with my cells getting really hot, until I started using stacked neutrals and configured it into a 7 cup design.
I forgot to mention why you should configure your cell to only run 2 volts to each cup/plate.
If you have more than 2 volts on each cup/plate it will overheat and will scorch the surface of the stainless steel, secreting any impurities and making your water change colors.
The water will also continue to get more and more hot until it reaches boiling temperature.
Nice video. Try to be patient with the amp meter, but I can understand that it is hard to wait for it because I had the same problem. Now I have one and I can tell you that it is great to have a clamp meter. I am not sure if they sell this brand in the US but I bought a Voltcraft VC 521 and it is working great, I can measure DC and AC volts up to 600 volt and DC and AC amps up to 400 amp as well as temperature, frequency, Ohms, capacity and some other things. It cost me 50 Euro Brand new !
Thanks, I was at the hardware store tonight, but they didn't have what I wanted. I'll try one more place tomorrow, and if they don't have what I'm looking for, I guess I'll have to buy online again.
I have a 15 amp circuit breaker. You can see it in the upper right corner of the video.
I've used fuses before with other cells, and though it could give me a better idea of the amp range, I would rather buy an amp meter and not have to keep replacing fuses.
I ordered an amp meter from ebay, but it arrived broken, so I sent it back.
This weekend I will probably go by Lowes or Home Depot and pickup a cheap Amp Meter that can read up to 30 Amps.
Couldn't find any Amp Meters at a decent price. I guess I'll have to buy what I want online.
And to anyone commenting on my 15 Amp Circuit Breaker, NO I will not consider wasting money on fuses for testing! Testing fuel cells with fuses is a bad recommendation any way you look at it. I won't buy tons of different Amperage Fuses, and change them out constantly, so I can figure out what range my fuel cell is operating in. An Amp Meter is the only way to go when testing fuel cells!
lol
hydrogenwon 9 months ago
how is it still cool after ten minutes ? need advice
BadRick951 9 months ago
@BadRick951 I used plastic cable ties as spacers and 5 neutral cups between each positive and negative connection. Neutral's have no connection, but carry the current from plate through their contact with the electrolyte. The reason for the Neutral cups is to increase the distance between the POS & NEG cups. This regulates the amount of voltage per cup and reduces the amperage. Amperage equals HEAT, so the configuration of the HHO Cell Design is the key to getting better results.
HHO4ALL 9 months ago
i'm using 4 solar panels at 4 amps each with peak output of 15 watts each . still no good efficiency rate . any body wants to help ?
joveeable 11 months ago
@joveeable Do you know how many volts you are applying?
HHO4ALL 11 months ago
is baking soda increase the amps ? help me please
joveeable 11 months ago
its cool man.
i bought some of these, have not got around to doing anything with them. and i bought some in the phillippines 3 times longer, they keep looking at me to have a try
irondmax 1 year ago
haha pretty cool, also the music
moonsmilelucide 1 year ago
I would use a compaction of stainless steel wool in a box to greatly increase surface area.
onthecuttingedge2005 2 years ago
It is a good idea, but you would have to be careful. If you get a spark or a flashback... you could have a problem.
Try putting an open flame or a spark to steel wool and you will get a molten ball of fire.
HHO4ALL 2 years ago
Good job
dolinskiyfamily 2 years ago
Thanks. You should check out some of my newer videos.
youtube/hho4all
HHO4ALL 2 years ago
OK, 1 LPM at 12 volts / 15 amps result in 71% efficiency of the cell, which is very good.
oystla 2 years ago 2
@oystla
Actual amperage was 6 Amps. I didn't have an Amp Meter at the time I recorded this video. If you go to my channel and watch Video 17 you will see the reading from the Amp Meter.
It's been a long time since I played with this design, so I should pick it up again and make some modifications to convert it into a Dry Cell. With less water to charge, I may be able to get the Amps even lower.
HHO4ALL 1 year ago
@oystla Why? how many L/min for 100%???
IQmaza 1 year ago
@IQmaza
For 100% you need 1 / 0,71 = 1,4 L/min gas production at 12Volts / 15 amps
oystla 1 year ago
I love the work you have done. What I realy want to see is a LPM test,, just need a 1 liter bottle, bucket full of water, cap on the cell and tubing. and do it with the test clock in view of the camera and cell.
My son and I will be doing a 7 cup design of our own for his 6th grade science project and will be installing it on a 2000 honda oddessy,, you helped inspire this low budget experiment!!! thanks and keep up the great work.
HHOREGON 3 years ago
Thank you, I have measured the output, but I guess I forgot to post the results.
For the design in this video, I had a little over 1 LPM.
I'm glad my ideas could inspire others to experiment with HHO.
Be sure to film your cell in action and upload it to youtube.
Good luck and happy experimenting!
HHO4ALL 3 years ago
A nice compact design. Thank you for sharing. Have you ever measured the output you are getting? I am really curious. Thanks again for your work.
23rvoops 3 years ago 2
I noticed some smoke rolling out of the top of the jar. I know you say it only got warm. I dont know if I can believe that. Do you have a thermometer you can run it for 10 minutes maybe 20 or longer and post the result of the temp. I have mad a cell with stainless steel. I feed it with stainless tabs not wire. That way I can move a lot of current with little resistance. Only problem I have is heat. I am going to add some nuetral plates to it. Hopefully this will allow it to run cooler
californiaquack 3 years ago
What you see is vapor, not steam or smoke. This is normal, but less is better.
I don't have a thermometer, but it is a good idea. I will pick one up, so there won't be any question about how hot it is getting.
The configuration I have provides less than 2 Volts per cup. (7 Cups x 2 volts ea = 14 volts) When you hook it up in the car, you will be getting 13.8 volts, so this is the most efficient way I've found to keep the heat down.
My configuration is + nn nn nn nn nn -
HHO4ALL 3 years ago
In my configuration (+ nn nn nn nn nn -) I uses stacked neutral cups to increase the amount of reactive surface area, and to increase the distance between the Pos & Neg terminals. That is the key to how I keep the heat to a minimum.
I used to have problems with my cells getting really hot, until I started using stacked neutrals and configured it into a 7 cup design.
HHO4ALL 3 years ago
I forgot to mention why you should configure your cell to only run 2 volts to each cup/plate.
If you have more than 2 volts on each cup/plate it will overheat and will scorch the surface of the stainless steel, secreting any impurities and making your water change colors.
The water will also continue to get more and more hot until it reaches boiling temperature.
I hope this helps.
HHO4ALL 3 years ago
does the cell create heat?
skycollection 3 years ago
after running the cell for 4 hours straight the container was warm, but not hot and the connectors were still cold to the touch.
HHO4ALL 3 years ago
How did you do it!?
TheGoodnessIsGood 3 years ago
People working on this kind of thing are heros!
TheGoodnessIsGood 3 years ago 2
I see what you were talking about with the music hahaha funny.
RisingSun350 3 years ago
Nice video. Try to be patient with the amp meter, but I can understand that it is hard to wait for it because I had the same problem. Now I have one and I can tell you that it is great to have a clamp meter. I am not sure if they sell this brand in the US but I bought a Voltcraft VC 521 and it is working great, I can measure DC and AC volts up to 600 volt and DC and AC amps up to 400 amp as well as temperature, frequency, Ohms, capacity and some other things. It cost me 50 Euro Brand new !
insAneTunA 3 years ago
Thanks, I was at the hardware store tonight, but they didn't have what I wanted. I'll try one more place tomorrow, and if they don't have what I'm looking for, I guess I'll have to buy online again.
HHO4ALL 3 years ago
You can try to replace your 15 amp fuse with 10 amp one, or even lower to see more precisely the amount of amps.
kiliev2007 3 years ago
I have a 15 amp circuit breaker. You can see it in the upper right corner of the video.
I've used fuses before with other cells, and though it could give me a better idea of the amp range, I would rather buy an amp meter and not have to keep replacing fuses.
I ordered an amp meter from ebay, but it arrived broken, so I sent it back.
This weekend I will probably go by Lowes or Home Depot and pickup a cheap Amp Meter that can read up to 30 Amps.
HHO4ALL 3 years ago
Or you could blow fuses and could have gotten a multimeter to read Micro Amps.
RisingSun350 3 years ago
This is really bad advise.
RisingSun350 3 years ago
No Kidding!
Couldn't find any Amp Meters at a decent price. I guess I'll have to buy what I want online.
And to anyone commenting on my 15 Amp Circuit Breaker, NO I will not consider wasting money on fuses for testing! Testing fuel cells with fuses is a bad recommendation any way you look at it. I won't buy tons of different Amperage Fuses, and change them out constantly, so I can figure out what range my fuel cell is operating in. An Amp Meter is the only way to go when testing fuel cells!
HHO4ALL 3 years ago