I fixed my Onkyo TX-SR606 hdmi just like you show in your video.
Before, if I turn my TV or receiver off and if I try to turn them back on in 2-3 hours or more, I had to wait 10 to 30 min and it was getting worse with time. And lately just one resolution was passing through 1024x768 (my TV native). No OSD of course, I never had it, even when I bought it brand new.
Now everything is fine-I have OSD, no problem with resolutions and if tomorrow I have to wait to connect Yamaha it is
How on earth did you figure out what was wrong with your receiver as well as the steps that were needed to fix it? What was wrong with those five capacitors? Why would replacing them fix the problem? Are the new capacitors superior to the original ones in some way? If so, then why would Onkyo use inferior caps in the first place? Thank you so much, Ed, for posting such great videos with top-notch instruction and useful tips.
Thank you very much for the video! I'm a "first time solder" and I'm happy to say all HDMI switches does work now. But sadly the on-screen menu isn't working. Can anyone tell me whitch of the capasitors handle that functin?
Before finding this video my SR606 was taking up to 20 minutes to show the video/audio. It would just flash no signal until it "warmed up". My HTCP would only work on 24hz and would NEVER work with 60hz. After watching this guide and replacing 5 of the caps, it now works wonderfully!!!
Great guide,I re-watched it a few times during my repair just to be sure.
I used 100uF 10V for the main replacements,also bought 1uF 50V polycaps for the regulators,I struggled to get the solder to stick to the regulator tab, so left it for now,didn't want to cook anything.
Replaced the 5 capacitors, board back in , powered up and so far all is great.Quick HDMI switching, and it now passes 1080p through from my blu-ray,where it wouldn't before the repair
I was having the same issues as stated above. Watched the video, made the fix and now everything is working great!! I ended up using the caps from radio shack...100uf 35v
i have TX-SR577 and,,, i have kind of similar problem,,, more or less,,, i dont get the signal,,, i havent actually tried keeping it on for 10 or more min so,, i dont know if its the same problem,, but i wonder if this fix can work on my reciver as well?
Just received my new replacement HDMI board for my OnkyoHT-R960 (part #1B2115731A). Costed me 175 euro incl. shipping & taxes (available at pretty much any certified Onkyo dealer - check onkyo.com). I noticed that exactly the parts that are mentioned to be replaced here are already replaced by other conductors on this new board. Apparently Onkyo themselves had figured out those parts were crap too. Going to put my system back together again tonight.
Ed thanks for producing this video. I was really excited about fixing my SR606 but now after replacing the caps and powering up the unit all that happens is a clicking noise. Any idea what could be going on. I used the caps form Radio Shack.
I love Onkyo receivers and have a TX-SR606 and a 607, which both had lost OSD and Analog to HDMI conversion.
Tried this on my 606, using (2) 100uf 16v ( RadioShack grab bag ) and (3) 100uf 50v electrolytic caps ( they never have enough of one kind ).
WORKED!
I have back OSD n ANALOG to HDMI conversion!
SOOOOO HAPPY!
Side note - I messed up the five (5) conductor power cable something awful before I realized that I was supposed to push DOWN on the plastic on top to remove the cable.
Thanks so much Ed. I followed your instructions and my useless TX-SR606 is working great again! The most difficult part for me was getting the power connection out from the board. I used some needle nose pliers and held the white connector down while pulling the wire with the pliers. Putting it back in was easy.
CE Repair Mijdrecht, The Netherlands refuses to sell the HDMI switching board separately to replace it yourself. Most Onkyo certified dealers in Germany and Austria have no problems with selling the board separately. The price there is a lot lower too. It costs about 150 euros including 19% sales tax, excluding shipping. Just check the Onkyo website for certified dealers. The product number for the board is 1B2115731A.
@eddiekern, perhaps an idea to add this info to your video description?
Thanks for video. For the record, I was having other HDMI problems and decided to try this and it appears to have solved them. The initial handshake didn't take TOO long (although it does seem to switch just a bit faster) but the picture over HDMI would drop at random for a second or two. Audio would be fine, the video would blink. Tried different/shorter cables and nothing fixed it. The blink didn't seem to happen as much on HDMI 1, but with my PS3 hooked up to it, I'd get 'noise'
Total success -- THANK YOU for this video! Used Radio Shack capacitors as noted.
WRT removing the HDMI board, on my TX-SR606 I addition to the power cable there was another (white) cable. I left that attached, and replaced the 1 top-of-board capacitor, flipped the board over with cable attached, and replaced the 4 bottom-of-board capacitors.
For all Dutch people reading along. I've bought the replacement parts at dickbest.nl (product 100uF 6,3V Elco smd). They're 25 eurocents each. A whole new HDMI replacement board which I now have to buy because I messed up the repair costs about 225 euro including taxes and shipping and can be bought the webshop of CE Repair in Mijdrecht (Google for it).
Just gave it a try on my Onkyo HT-R960 as well. Failed unfortunately. While really gently removing the 3rd capacitor it broke of the switchboard. (photo at files.koenzomers.nl / OnkyoHT-R960HDMI.jpg - remove spaces). There's no contact anymore to solder it onto. Anyone got a clue if there's still something that can be done about this?
I replaced the 5 capacitors on my Onkyo TX-SR606 with 100 uf 50 v capacitors from The Source in Canada (black, larger, not surface mounted) and the HDMI handshake worked perfectly as did everything else, except for the on screen menu setup. Do you think I should replace the other 5 100 uf capacitors? Is there any indication that the other 5 are linked to the on screen menusetup issue, i.e., speaker setup.
I would also like to add that I had a LOT of trouble detaching the board from the wire at that clip to take it out and work on it, so I just left it attached, stacked a couple books next to the receiver for the board to sit on and swung it over and rested it on the books while I soldered it. That clip would just not let go, and I broke a little piece off it so I didn't want to risk it any more. I felt like the wires were going to pull right out of the clip/harness thing. :0
Thx for sharing this excellent info! Real shame to see this occurring with so many Onkyo devices. Makes me wonder how much we can trust the quality of Onkyo. I'm owning a RT-960 and experienced this problem right from the start. Have been pulling my hair out for years to find out why it wasn't working correctly. Put the blame on myself all the time for not using proper cables or settings. I'm hoping Onkyo will take their responsibility and fix it. Still in a struggle with them about it though.
I was searching the internet because I wanted to find out of SR-607 has this same problem, but luckily I found this vid instead. I wasn't going to start replacing it because I'm not so experienced with electroniccs. But after seeing how easy it is I think I can't afford not to try. Thanks a lot, eddiekern!
Great video, thanks very much. My repair didnt work however. The amp powers up fine, but I don't seem to get anything from the HDMI ports at all. On the AV display I dont get the flashing HDMI logo that usually appears when its trying to select the port, its almost like the HDMI board is getting no power. I have checked all the connections and the soldering of the new caps seemed to go fine. Anyone got any ideas what to check?
Thanks for posting this video. It will save me from replacing what for all other reasons is a great receiver. I've done surface mount before so this should be straight forward, I just needed to know what components to replace. Again, thanks for the information.
Replaced 5 caps with a mix of 35 v & 50 v 100uf caps (on hand at local RadioShack). Also store brand 25W iron and some of the thinnest solder they had. $26.54 all told. Before: HDMI took several minutes for video or sound to come on and most times had to power cycle or switch back and forth between inputs. Analog was much worse and would take 15 minutes with power cycling to get video but audio came on immediately. Not sure about OSD on HDMI but worked on RCA. After: all video/audio comes up ev
I replaced all 5 caps but now i'm getting a clicking noise & can't power on the amp.
Red standby light flicks on/off. I have soldered black 12v & gnd cables directly to hdmi board to rule out touching cables/damaged connector any idea's here would really be appreciated.
How was it that you determined that those specific caps were faulty? With some electrolytic caps, you can see a bulge or even leaking, but I saw no obvious signs in the video.
This was a good fix. I got the receiver free from someone on freecycle who complained that the HDMI switching took forever. I replaced the caps with tantalum capacitors. They're said to be more stable and heat resistant. Watch the polarity, though, as with electrolytic capacitors. All is working as it should, including configuration menu. Thanks.
OMG, I'm dying to try this! I've been having handshake issues for over a year now. But my receiver MAY still be under warranty. Does anyone know if it'll void the warranty if I try this first? I'm pretty impatient.
Excellent video. I have a TX-SR606 that was experiencing the same thing as the others. When switching from cable to my wdtv sometimes it would take 10 minutes for audio and display to show up. I made the updates as you posted switching out the 5 caps and the problem seemed to go away at first. Now after a few hours of use I lose the display. Is this due to overheating? Do you guys think I need to replace the rest of the 100uf 4V caps as someone else has posted?
This fix worked for me. Before the fix, my the 606 would cut off when PS3 or xbox360 was the source, the setup menu would not appear on the TV, constantly said "No Signal" on the 606 LCD display, and was just unreliable in switching between HDMI sources. After the fix, HDMI switching was quick and responsive, setup menu appeared on the OSD, no more random power losses with 360 or PS3, and all is well. Thank you Ed, good video!
Thanks for the demo. I was able to fix my 606 with no trouble at all. However, even though the HDMI switching did come back, I still do not have the onscreen display back, but I can live without it. After all, I've been without it for 2 years! I will need to purchase a cooling fan as I've already seen signs of it overheating again. Every time I would change the tv channel, I would have no audio. I put a fan on it, and instantly it worked like a champ.
Sweet! Ed, you're the man. Prior to the repair, I couldn't get a picture on my TV unless my DirecTV receiver was set to 420p (or i). Also, the Onkyo OSD didn't work. Further, I couldn't get component video to work, although I didn't spend a lot of time on it and it could have been a case of not hooking it up correctly. After the repair, my DirevTV box can be set to 720 or 1080 and the picture comes up quickly. Also, OSD now works. Thanks again!
Hello guys i tried to perform this fix , and tried to check if it worked before put the black cover back together, and my receiver wont turn on, i only got the red stand by light blinking and making a click noise every other second, it was ok before i tried the fix,any help? thanks.
@specialwagnerbr Check the black cable and make sure that each of the 5 wires is in the correct spot, that would be the first thing to check followed by the white connectors on the side, followed by the soldering connections.
Before: About 50% of the time, I could hear but not see the Wii (tried both component and composite cables with same result). Turing the receiver on and off would eventually solve the issue. The issue seemed to be getting worse over time. Onkyo was not helpful and insisted the issue was my settings. I purchased the capacitors from Radio Shack and replaced them a few minutes ago.
After: It seems to be working flawlessly. I tested all the inputs I use regularly and they work fine.
Thanks for the great video. It's things like this that make this internet thing really shine. Do it yourselfers helping others
I have a TX-SR607 that is doing exactly as you have described. I will assume for now that the fix is the same and will order the caps. Is the PN you list for MCM for the right size parts or the ones that you show in the video? Do you think the fix is the same for the '607?
@DryGuy11 The HDMI board on your 607 is different than the one from this video. The product # for the caps from MCM are correct, I just got sent the wrong ones. Ultimately your best bet is to cruise the HiDef Forum for a fix.
Thanks for the reply. Actually, I ended up ordering the caps from Digi-Key (PN PCE4129CT-ND) for 0.47USD each. They also have hi-temp version (PN PCE4801CT-ND) I will post on the Hi-Def forums to see which caps.
One note: I was able to remove the white ribbon/tape cable that connects to the HDMI board by pressing on the white plastic connector but I couldn't remove the black cables. I just did all the soldering with the black cable still attached to the HDMI board. Not a very comfortable position but I didn't want to risk breaking the connection to the black cables.
Woooohhooooo, YES!!!!! Ed many, many thanks. Problems started about 2 years ago when the On Screen Menu didn't show up. Then I started having problems with switching the HDMI ports. It gradually became worst to the point where I could use my AppleTV or PS3 anymore. I replaced the 5 caps with 100uF 10Watts pod capacitors I found at a local store. It worked like a charm. It switches very fast and I couldn't hear the clicking sound it made before. Thanks again Ed.
Ed, I appreciate the great video. After replacing the caps (had to use a mix of 35v/50v caps from Radioshack due to availability) the output has a blue tint and the image is heavily pixelated. HDMI switching is fine. I've checked the ribbon cable and all connections and they're good. I've reheated and checked all the solder joints. No change, still blue. One thing I haven't done is completed unsoldered, cleaned up the contacts, and resoldered. Any suggestions?
@eddiekern Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and unsoldered/resoldered the caps, no change. Went a step further and removed all 100uf 4v caps and replaced them with Nippon 100uf 10v, high temp (105c), low ESR caps. Still no change. :( My iron is only 30 watts, cheap from Radioshack, and doesn't heat the solder as quick as I'd like, which required longer contact than typical. The only thing I can think of is that I probably overheated a semiconducter somewhere. Not sure where though.
@mcmurm11 One last repairable possibility is checking the pins on the 3 white connectors on the right, if a pin is bent that could do it. If not, then I truly am out of ideas, sorry it didn't work out for you.
@eddiekern I did see those RGB pins, and it does make sense (blue tint = lacking red color). I checked the ribbon cable and it feels like it's inserting fine but I didn't check the actual pin inside the connector. I think I might just pay it a little more attention when I get home. No worries if it doesn't fix the issue. The video was a great help to many others.
Further to my earlier two posts - I took a look again at one of the new caps I had previously soldered. The one on the back at the bottom right did not look great - so I replaced it. Not sure if I had fried the cap or it was just my poor soldering. Anyway - all now works perfectly. This would therefore indicate that this particular cap relates to composite upscaling and OSD. Hope this helps someone else. Thanks again, Ed.
Ed. Thanks you! This was my winter project.. used the radio shack caps, was a little snug, but got the board back in after my first time soldering. After turning it on, I was amazed to find it running perfectly after the last 3 months of not being used due to the inability to switch between hdmi's. Thanks again and happy holidays!
Thanks Eddie! You saved me some real cash. The fix worked perfectly with the radio shack caps. My soldering job was not that good and I didnt even totally remove the board from the cabinet, cause I didnt want to jack up that white clip, since it was giving me a hard time taking it off. Did the work and it is up and running perfectly! THanks again! Dmac
I used 100uF 25v caps from Maplin (UK equiv to Radio Shack). First time I have soldered anything - so a bit messy to begin with! Hopefully okay - but will check back.
Followed instructions - including push down on white connector to remove black wires. All no problem.
My question - if I see all soldering is good - is there a way to check that the caps are working? See my post below where I mention partial success - it's just the XBox composite and OSD.
Ed - thanks very much for your video. Very clear instructions.
Before: Any HD TV signal would cause TV to black out for a few seconds at a time. XBox comp signal would not hook up easily and I had to switch on and off of TV, XBox and Onkyo to get the connection. OSD did not work.
After: HD TV and DVD - work perfectly - but XBox composite hook up and OSD remains an issue - though I can get it to work if each time I unplug XBox composites from Onkyo and plug back in to alternative composite port.
First time I've ever posted to You Tube. My receiver has been going out for about a year now. There was no On Screen Display and I had to keep switching from source to source and turning unit on and off in the hopes of having HDMI come on line.
Yesterday morning I had had enough. I took off 6 caps instead of 5 as I got confused as to which to remove. After replacing all caps, unit works just fine. Thanks a million as I was about to buy another unit but definitely not Onkyo.
Chalk up another winner Ed. I replaced the five caps using the part # and store you mentioned. I think the HDMI switches faster than it did when I first bought it. :) I have a sharp point soldering iron that I was able to put on the edge of the bad capacitors solder points, I didn't have to pry them off as you suggested. The old solder melted just enough to release them. Thanks a bunch!
DVD and Game/TV port did not work, at all. HDMI did not transfer sound.
After:
All ports functioning. Sound works perfectly.
Some tips:
- Wiggle the old capacitors to loosen them (do NOT pull)
- To remove the two electrical cords from the circuit board, just pull the cord (make sure to press down on the plastic so that it does not loosen from the circuit board)
- Make sure that you know what is plus/minus on the capacitors
One thing I learned was when removing the legs of the old capacitors from the board, be sure to only gently wiggle them back and forth until they fall off easily. DO NOT PULL. I accidently peeled the layer of the board with the traces off like an onion. fortunately, I could still solder to the fine edge that was left and everything works fine. But gently wiggling it back and forth until it detaches is the way to go. Hope this helps.
Hi, Ed, thanks for the Vid! I just fixed mine yesterday, I'm psyched it's working again.
BEFORE: Switching degraded from occasional to having to switch back & forth, turn on/off receiver and/or TV. Got prgsvly worse until it was unusable and I had to run the HDMI straight from *Insert Hardware* to the TV, and the audio had to be run in Via optical, or stereo jacks.
AFTER: HDMI Switching Fixed - Switching is immediate, and no longer "Clicks" over, OSD is back up and running [Three thumbs up]
Hi Eddie thank you so much, I will try that and tell you if it worked! I sent my receiver to the repqir shop, they charged me $1500!!! Brazil sometimes let my self crazy...
Hi Ed! Thank you very much for the video! I just have one problem: one of the conectors of power gnd, 12v, gnd... broke and got stuck into the little withe box on the board, what should i do? Try soldering it back together? Thank you!!
@bzanchet That happened to me when I took the board off a second time for the video. I pushed the white cover down and removed the extra piece with needle nose pliers, and stripped back the black plastic a bit and trimmed all the wires to the same length. There are plenty of "right" ways to do it, do whatever you feel most comfortable with
@eddiekern I just repaired mine last night and totally screwed up the white socket where the black wires plug into. I ended up desoldering the connector on the board and soldered new wires directly to the board. The HDMI board isn't easily removable anymore but I can always desolder it again if it ever comes to that. Works great now. Thanks for the help.
NOTE: Getting the solder to stick on the negative side was more tricky than the positive side for some unknown reason. I found that tinning (putting a blob of solder) on the new capacitors legs rather than the board worked much better for me when soldering. Eventually the solder took to the board and stuck nice and solid. Also solder Positive side first.
WORKED A TREAT!!! Parts used from Maplin were 100uF 10V Radial 85degC Electrolytic capacitors. (Maplin PT No: VH36 £0.21ea)
Before: No sync at all, no OSD went out and bought a hdmi switcher to battle this.
After: It's like the day got it, switching takes about 1 sec, Wii (connected by component in), HTPC works flawlessly including Dolby TrueHD & DTS-HD MA audio formats. Sky HD works great to.
I'm heading off to Maplin (UK's version of Radioshack) tomorrow to get these caps. They only have 10V and 25V ones so have reserved 10 of each. If it works I will post up PT NO's for them for any UK users wanting to fix theirs.
I just tried this fix. I got video for a minute or two. Then it went fuzy, and now a black screen. It worked before but had to wait 5-10 min for the signal come through. Now it doesn't work at all!
thanks for a great viedo. I have the same problem, but with my TX-SR 608. the HDMI is dead, meaning I don´t get even the meny up to my projector. The Onkyo repair in Madrid wants 300€ to fix it. They claim that they have to change the whole board. Would appreciate advise on this. thanks a lot.
owned it for years before it started failing takng longer and longer to accept the signal. tv broke and switched to a different tv. when i fixed the tv it would no longer accept the singal no matter how long I waited. I ended up knocking a small chip off the board near the plastic pop rivet. luckily i was able to solder it back on. I also snapped one of the power wires and ended up having to remove the plastic connector and solder the wires directly. thanks for the fix, saved my ass.
Before : Analog RCA input from Wii console was very erratic - video would not show up most of the time. Also intermittent problems getting HDMI from Samsung DVD player to show up.
After : All input types working flawlessly. Switching inputs is a breeze.
Caution : One of the caps on the rear side is crowded with some other components. If you have a soldering gun with a broad tip, make sure to handle it carefully, otherwise you might nuke some other components.
Hi, I was wondering if you could help me, I have an old Kenwood Sterio intergrated Amplifier KA-52, the problem is that when I play music or games etc, one of my speakers will cut out (not same speaker they both cut out at different times when they feel like it, I have replaced all my speaker wiring with good quality cabling but still it happens, Plus it may help to know the power is still on and one speaker will always work, Would you possibly have an idea on what might be the problem? Thanks
I would really like to thank you. I had the same problem, but no warranty anymore (went to Onkyo but they turned me down...) I got the HDMI board and went to a local electronic store and they fixed this for me for 30 euro. Put it back and got it perfectlyworking again!! THANK YOU! Good video, good comment and nicely explained. A++
Had all 5 recommended capacitors changed with right parts from MCM but had to strip back small black flat cable as broke 2 of 5 wires pricing it out of housing(before I realised it was spring loaded!!) but now gone from picture flickering after 45 mins on bluray/games on PS3 to the tv not recognising the HDMI at all?? Confused.com-what have I done wrong as most other people seem to having success with the fix......
I tried changing to another input without any difference. Also did a reset on the receiver, did not help. As a last check, I have also checked the cable I am using so its not a bad one. anyone else having the same problem? HDMI switching works fine.
HDMI switching issues on my 606 also no OSD otherwise it seems to work fine. Have to run my PS3 & Wii direct to my TV and using toslink (to the 606) for audio. Debating whether or not I want to take on this fix. You make it look so easy in the video, haha. I'm just an avg. joe w/ zero electronics repair/soldering experience. What skill level do you recommend this fix for? Good video however.
@OneAmerican1776 It's not hard, even with no soldering experience. If your feeling uneasy about it, just do what I did ... wait until the inconvenience of waiting for HDMI switching outweighs the fear of breaking the stupid thing. Looking through the comments may help give you confidence. Others have done it with no prior experience. Good luck
I suggest to use higher voltage capacitors (10-16V) perhaps even better quality tantalum caps to keep them from future breakdowns. It does not have to be surface mount capacitors, there is plenty of room on the board to put bigger and more robust caps. That is what I will do tomorrow.
Thanks for the video! This fixed my receiver. BTW, anybody doing this fix should replace _all_ the 100uf 4v capacitors (10 in total). I have an ESR tester for these, and every single one of them was bad.
A huge thanks for posting this. I went the Radio Shack route for the parts. I am by no means an expert at soldering but with your instructions, it was pretty easy. My TX-SR606 works better than new with all HDMI ports working correctly (HTPC and Wii) as well as the return of all of my on-screen menus. I had first thought the problem was with my HTPC but soon the Wii stopped working as well. Thanks to you I save $500 on a new amp!
Before: I could see the setup screen. All HDMI-HDMI connections. My cable box went from 5-10 seconds of load time to 5 minutes over the last few months. My PS3 has been taking anywhere from 5 minutes, to never actually loading.
After: Used 3 50v and 2 35v from Radio Shack. After swapping them out and turning it back on. All HDMI ports are switching in seconds. Soldering iron and all supplies cost $23 at Radio shack. Never soldered before...joins looked terrible, but just need contact.
Before games and blurays were cutting out on ps3 after about 1 hour so gave my circuit board to a guy who works on them for a living to fix but on return after replacing into main unit-nothing?! tv wont recognise any of the hdmi's at all but i have sound (bluray in ps3). after removing the circuit board to check the capacitors i've noticed he seems to have put one on the wrong way around (as per your still near start of vid)- is this the problem anyone??? help please......
Thanks for the video, it worked, at least partially. My HDMI-switch now works, no OSD however.
I replaced the caps with 6,3 volt, but apart from that they were identical. I am fortunate enough to have a neighbor with soldering skills, so I ordered the parts (about 8 €) and gave him a bottle of wine. Problem solved. Thanks again. P.s have not tried if the amp converts composite to HDMI yet.
I finally got the black cables and white ribbon style cable disconnected but how do you remove the HDMI board from the other board (connected by the three connectors)? Do you just pull it out? I want to make sure before I break anything :p Someone please help
Before: Took a while for the HDMI to output to the tv, no menus or audio either
After: Works perfectly
The part number listed in the description is not the large sized one that is in the video, but rather the correct size. I did not remove the base from the capacitor, I just soldered them on and it worked fine
I had the problem where the audio did not work. I looked at the black ribbon cable and noticed that it was not fully connected. Two pins were not inserted correctly. Made sure that I had a solid connection on the cable and now my recieved is working perfect.
Ed - I have tried following your tutorial. As far as I have gotten was to begin removing the HDMI switcher card. I have been unsuccessful at removing the small black cable from the board, to the left of the small strip of of cabling that just slides out. I have tried taking a knife, pliers, and anything else to grip it, and pull it out, with no success. How is this to be removed? I am trying hard not to yank it too hard, I dont want to rip it off.
@kyotodesertfox Push down in the center of the black wire connection to release the wires. Do the same when putting them back in. Pushing down will release the wires.
Hi Ed, we carried out your instruction on our Onkyo 606 because before repair we were having 'no signal' problems. After the repair we can connect to the signal but now have no sound. Onkyo service engineers suggest we need firmware update which is quite costly. Can you offer any advice on this new problem, Thank you in anticipation of a reply.
@jerryhaney Test Point, which didn't work for long, my HDMI board failed entirely after 12 hours of use, the TP connection, although lucky, proved to not be able to maintain the current load and it failed.
@kndynt2099 stripping the wire shouldn't have effected the length of the wire, but if you accidentally cut the wires or otherwise, I suppose you could solder on an additional length and coat it, best with heatshrink. that may prove quite difficult, replacing the wire may not be any easier.
Before: No Audio problems. Sat/Cab and DVD output - video started wavy, then disappeared, would re-appear after power down, then eventually no video regardless. Never waited longer than a few minutes for the handshake to occur. Receiver would click when switching inputs.
After: Works. no clicking, quick handshake. Replaced the same 5 caps as described with Radioshack #272-1028 and #272-1044
HDMI inputs 2,3,4 intermittent lines on display (like digital version of movie theater image artifacts). Video/audio intermittently drops drops out for 1-7s. Input 1 not effected. No OSD.
I broke a cap lead from the PCB, be CAREFUL, soldered to neighboring TP, works. I used 100uf 35v, MORE ROBUST. 5 black wires...push down on top. Caps are tall, move wire ribbon to fit. <$10, 1Hr
@kndynt2099 strip back a section of the wire shielding to approx 1/4 inch exposed wires (all five) and then press down on white cover, while holding down (with some force via a flat head screw driver) insert wires, then release pressure on cover prior to releasing pressure on wires...should do the trick.
@chris332277 Hi Chris, Thanks. Here is another problem. I stripped the wires but I ended up stripping a bit much from one of the wires. Is there is any way to bridge another type of wire (similar to what we do with speaker wires and place electric tape) to this wire cable to extend the length? I'm not sure what kind of wires I can bridge.
I was able to replace the capacitors but didn't work. I think with the 5 wires...ground 12v...ground 12v ground. When I pulled them out, some of the wires were still in the plastic. Was able to remove that and the wire remnants. The problem is that once I was all done, the five wires would not stay in. They kept coming out. I figured I needed more wire but they keeping coming out. Tried to electric tape them down to no avail.
Before: Had the receiver for about 3 years. On Screen Display stopped working about a year ago. I didn't care much since I rarely used it. Receiver takes multiple minutes to recognize anything when first turned on. Cable box always worked after a few minutes. PS3 not recognized. HDMI from computer worked 25% of the time.
After: Used 100uf 50V caps from Radioshack. Now recognizes all HDMI ports within 3 seconds. OSD still not working but I dont care.
@godfather81123 Push down in the center of the black wire connection to release the wires. Do the same when putting them back in. Pushing down will release the wires.
Worked on both my 606 but only one 100% the uthet one still has no OSD . I used 5.5 mm 100uf 4v caps from RS components in crawley west Sussex £10 delivered for 10. Lifted one track on the board on one cap but just gave a little scrap of the green to expose the copper and soldiered fine. Thanks for the vid saved me £££ and I have no 10 min wait for sync now.
@salteh22 yep, sure did. I was thinking more about making the video than payin attention to what I was doing. I thought I annotated that, but I must have forgot. Thanks for the reminder :)
Thanks for taking the time to post this fix. It worked like a charm. In the beginning I was worried because I ripped a bit of the board when pulling out one of the capacitors. But for a few dollars and for the first time, I don' t have to wait for the signal to come on. Thank you so much!
Wow!!...just WOW!!!...You just saved me a few hundred dollars. I was going to throw it away. The only thing I did is used 100uf, 6.3 volts because of local availability. $5 and done! According to the electronics store guy, I could go higher in voltage od the capacitor as long as the uf remained the same. THANK YOU!! thank you!! THANK YOU!!
1 on front side, and 3 on back side. These are not something I have on mine? Are these parts, replacements, upgrades you have made to your board?
My problem with my receiver, is that while watching TV, and sometimes xbox/PC, the audio and video will switch off for a few seconds. Never had an issue with HDMI switching upon start up, though I don't have OSD. I bought 100uf 35v high temp caps.
@Echo4Foxtrot78 To be honest the picture was stolen from the HiDef Forum. The red dealies are film capacitors that are soldered to some voltage regulators, it is a way to make sure that the caps that I replace in the video don't give out again. I just figured I'd replace the caps again if they give out, because no one sells film caps (where polarity doesn't matter) near where I live.
So I just did this today with no worries. Opened receiver and noticed a 10uf 50v leaking, and replaced that too. Now, no more A/V cutting in and out, and OSD now works (never noticed it till reading this forum). Thanks for the help!
@Echo4Foxtrot78 I had two receivers doing this. Replaced capacitors in both. One works great, the other I think i got two of the wires crossed in the wite connector. Now unit just clicks. Did I blow a fuse or any suggestions on what to try?
3 yr old Onkyo TX-SR606 . Issue began a year ago. Switching anywhere from 5-15 min. Cable/Sat ALWAYS worked instantly. The rest had delay problem. Especially PS3. Games worked after delay, Blu Rays NEVER. On screen setup gone. No surface mount caps locally. Used regular 100mfd 16v Electrolytic Capacitors. Cut leads and bent like in video. Soldered at angle so height ok. Oriented black stripe side to black half moon side on originals. Everything works PERFECTLY now. Great video! Thanks a ton!
Unfortunately, it didnt work. :( My Samsung HDTV had the same problem (well, a power issue, which required replacing capacitors as well), and I fixed that, but this didn't work. But its probably my error trying to fix it. Upon taking off one of the capacitors, it tore some of the green board. Maybe that ruined it. It still turns on, but the same problem, it won't recognize the signal. Oh well.
Just did to fix to my TX-SR606. Used the caps from Radio shack. Working great - watching a movie right now.. Major props for the detailed instructions.
Worked great for my HT-R667 too. I didn't have any soldering experience either. I purchased the capacitors at Radio Shack per your instructions, followed the rest of your instructions and after about 20-30 minutes it works great. Thanks for the great video.
Worked for my TX-SR606, bought the Radio Shack capacitors. Took about 15-20 min. Now it switches within seconds. Save me alot because i was gonna replace it already.
Thank you very much for the very detailed video and instructions.
This worked perfectly for my Onkyo HT-R667! Thank you so much for such an awesome and helpful video. I had no prior soldering experience and had never taken apart any electronic equipment before. The soldering is definitely tricker than it looks but after some practice I got the hang of it. Don't worry if your blobs of solder look too big or messy, in the end it just seems like a solid connection to the capacitor is what matters.
Thanks for your exellent video, I had the same problem with my amplifier, but after replacing the capacitators it worked perfect again. Quite fiddly to solder the new capacitators but with some effort it worked!
I removed the board and had a friend who is handy with soldering circuit boards replace the caps. He used 100mf, 35 and 40v. HDMI handshake would take 5 min+ for xbox and blu-ray (sat box always OK). Works perfectly now. Went from pricing out replacement receivers to getting it fixed for price of fast food lunch. This was all after I dropped the board twice! Thank you for the great explanation.
Just an FYI guys, same problems here after warranty expired about 10 months ago, called onkyo and there willing to fix it for free with a faxed copy of my bill.
Great video. I am having the exact same problem. I am going to try fixing it myself tomorrow. Now if I wanted to replace the entire HDMI board, you have any idea where to get it and the cost? Thanks again for this awesome detailed video.
@harryhoudini66 I got some 100mf 35v from Radioshack. The first time it did not work but my soldering was just horrible. Only the second time I do it. I then removed them and did them again but this time without fear and it worked perfectly. My PS3 is detected within 3 seconds or so. Used to take 10-20 minutes before.
This is total BS I sent my receiver in and they are telling me it is working normal now. I said it was an intermittent problem, and they said it should still show up. I KNOW, KNOW when I get it back to my house it is going to start doing this crap again, and they will tell me my warranty is done. I'm going to be very upset if this happens, and will be calling onkyo approximately twice a day until it is fixed.
This video helped me out BIG TIME! Worked like a charm! I used 100uf 25v capacitors. Don't know how long my amp is gonna last but is working fine. Thanks for the video!! I will not be buying any ONKYO products in the near future!
Before: HDMI handshake problem. Sometimes handshake took 30.min. After: HDMI handshake right away :) I used 5x 100uf 63v caps from Brinck Elektronik in Copenhagen. Thanks a bunch :)
Excellent video! I was having the same issue with my SR606 in that it took approximately 10 min of warm up time before I would get video. The audio would cut in and out until the unit warmed up. Had the cable company replace the cable box and no change. Watched your video and went to Radio Shack and bought their 100uf caps. Installed them on the board by laying them horizontally on the circuit board to save space. Took about 45 min start to finish and now everything works flawlessly.
Wonderful video! Mine just broke down on me with similar issues BUT i can get 480p signals picture and sound just fine. These past few weeks the signal would pass through but the picture quality would have fuzzy lines until it became clear after a few minutes.
I have no OSD picture and no signals that are HD..... So was wondering if this fix will solve everything?
I bought my onkyo with circuit city was closing down... never registered for the warranty......
would have saved me a few more minutes...but none the less...this still only took about 30 minutes to complete...just popped those little stinkers right off and dropped a dab of solder on...took the Radio Shack units and cut them shorter...bent the tips out...and heated the solder to the tips...easy 123.
Thanks a TON...the receiver is too nice to go out like that!!!
I eventually got it off, but I was afraid I was going to break it if I pulled too hard. I couldn't figure out how to get those 4 black wires out of the white connector either. I worked on the board with that still attached. Thank you so much for this video. You saved me $350. I was about to go buy the new TX-SR609 and give up on this one. By the way, the one I fixed was the TX-SR606.
Just did this process last night and it fixed the problem! Before I could only get one HDMI input to work and all of the others would not show a picture or audio. I bought the 100uf 35V from Radioshack and they worked. The only thing you have to do with those is bend them over to the side because they will not clear the bottom mother board of the component inputs straight up and down. Another problem I had was figuring out exactly how to remove the mother board. Maybe give a little more detail.
Mine worked perfectly. It took me maybe 30 minutes and that includes gathering up my tools. I used the 100mf 35V from Radioshack. The black (negative) side of the new capacitor matches up to the black side of the original capacitor. I cut the leads straight off about 1/4" instead of turning them out. This seemed to make it easier to attach.Drop some extra solder on the board, set your capacitor lead on top of the blob and heat it up while pushing down and it should go right into the blob. Thanks
had an issue with 2 of my hdmi inputs taking some time to work,and also no on screen display,found this video and got my brother to get the parts and fit them (he does soldering and works with circuit boards etc)
Ed you rock man
I fixed my Onkyo TX-SR606 hdmi just like you show in your video.
Before, if I turn my TV or receiver off and if I try to turn them back on in 2-3 hours or more, I had to wait 10 to 30 min and it was getting worse with time. And lately just one resolution was passing through 1024x768 (my TV native). No OSD of course, I never had it, even when I bought it brand new.
Now everything is fine-I have OSD, no problem with resolutions and if tomorrow I have to wait to connect Yamaha it is
gerelinko 1 day ago
How on earth did you figure out what was wrong with your receiver as well as the steps that were needed to fix it? What was wrong with those five capacitors? Why would replacing them fix the problem? Are the new capacitors superior to the original ones in some way? If so, then why would Onkyo use inferior caps in the first place? Thank you so much, Ed, for posting such great videos with top-notch instruction and useful tips.
you5711 3 days ago
Thank you very much for the video! I'm a "first time solder" and I'm happy to say all HDMI switches does work now. But sadly the on-screen menu isn't working. Can anyone tell me whitch of the capasitors handle that functin?
Kangool2000 4 days ago
Before finding this video my SR606 was taking up to 20 minutes to show the video/audio. It would just flash no signal until it "warmed up". My HTCP would only work on 24hz and would NEVER work with 60hz. After watching this guide and replacing 5 of the caps, it now works wonderfully!!!
Thanks so much for the video!!!!
ludedudeh22a1 1 week ago
Fixed my TX-SR606 this evening :)
Great guide,I re-watched it a few times during my repair just to be sure.
I used 100uF 10V for the main replacements,also bought 1uF 50V polycaps for the regulators,I struggled to get the solder to stick to the regulator tab, so left it for now,didn't want to cook anything.
Replaced the 5 capacitors, board back in , powered up and so far all is great.Quick HDMI switching, and it now passes 1080p through from my blu-ray,where it wouldn't before the repair
Thanks.
UrgentementeUK 1 week ago
I was having the same issues as stated above. Watched the video, made the fix and now everything is working great!! I ended up using the caps from radio shack...100uf 35v
csksblake 1 week ago
i have TX-SR577 and,,, i have kind of similar problem,,, more or less,,, i dont get the signal,,, i havent actually tried keeping it on for 10 or more min so,, i dont know if its the same problem,, but i wonder if this fix can work on my reciver as well?
kimy0103 2 weeks ago
Just received my new replacement HDMI board for my OnkyoHT-R960 (part #1B2115731A). Costed me 175 euro incl. shipping & taxes (available at pretty much any certified Onkyo dealer - check onkyo.com). I noticed that exactly the parts that are mentioned to be replaced here are already replaced by other conductors on this new board. Apparently Onkyo themselves had figured out those parts were crap too. Going to put my system back together again tonight.
MrKoen1982 2 weeks ago
Great video, thanks - gonna try this soon.
10BillionStars 3 weeks ago
Ed thanks for producing this video. I was really excited about fixing my SR606 but now after replacing the caps and powering up the unit all that happens is a clicking noise. Any idea what could be going on. I used the caps form Radio Shack.
allredm3 3 weeks ago
I love Onkyo receivers and have a TX-SR606 and a 607, which both had lost OSD and Analog to HDMI conversion.
Tried this on my 606, using (2) 100uf 16v ( RadioShack grab bag ) and (3) 100uf 50v electrolytic caps ( they never have enough of one kind ).
WORKED!
I have back OSD n ANALOG to HDMI conversion!
SOOOOO HAPPY!
Side note - I messed up the five (5) conductor power cable something awful before I realized that I was supposed to push DOWN on the plastic on top to remove the cable.
RedundantAcerA500 3 weeks ago
Thanks so much Ed. I followed your instructions and my useless TX-SR606 is working great again! The most difficult part for me was getting the power connection out from the board. I used some needle nose pliers and held the white connector down while pulling the wire with the pliers. Putting it back in was easy.
nickandjenny 3 weeks ago
CE Repair Mijdrecht, The Netherlands refuses to sell the HDMI switching board separately to replace it yourself. Most Onkyo certified dealers in Germany and Austria have no problems with selling the board separately. The price there is a lot lower too. It costs about 150 euros including 19% sales tax, excluding shipping. Just check the Onkyo website for certified dealers. The product number for the board is 1B2115731A.
@eddiekern, perhaps an idea to add this info to your video description?
MrKoen1982 1 month ago in playlist Favorite videos
Thanks for video. For the record, I was having other HDMI problems and decided to try this and it appears to have solved them. The initial handshake didn't take TOO long (although it does seem to switch just a bit faster) but the picture over HDMI would drop at random for a second or two. Audio would be fine, the video would blink. Tried different/shorter cables and nothing fixed it. The blink didn't seem to happen as much on HDMI 1, but with my PS3 hooked up to it, I'd get 'noise'
wildblue52 1 month ago
Total success -- THANK YOU for this video! Used Radio Shack capacitors as noted.
WRT removing the HDMI board, on my TX-SR606 I addition to the power cable there was another (white) cable. I left that attached, and replaced the 1 top-of-board capacitor, flipped the board over with cable attached, and replaced the 4 bottom-of-board capacitors.
TheMhaden 1 month ago
For all Dutch people reading along. I've bought the replacement parts at dickbest.nl (product 100uF 6,3V Elco smd). They're 25 eurocents each. A whole new HDMI replacement board which I now have to buy because I messed up the repair costs about 225 euro including taxes and shipping and can be bought the webshop of CE Repair in Mijdrecht (Google for it).
MrKoen1982 1 month ago in playlist Favorite videos
Just gave it a try on my Onkyo HT-R960 as well. Failed unfortunately. While really gently removing the 3rd capacitor it broke of the switchboard. (photo at files.koenzomers.nl / OnkyoHT-R960HDMI.jpg - remove spaces). There's no contact anymore to solder it onto. Anyone got a clue if there's still something that can be done about this?
MrKoen1982 1 month ago
Hi Eddie,
I replaced the 5 capacitors on my Onkyo TX-SR606 with 100 uf 50 v capacitors from The Source in Canada (black, larger, not surface mounted) and the HDMI handshake worked perfectly as did everything else, except for the on screen menu setup. Do you think I should replace the other 5 100 uf capacitors? Is there any indication that the other 5 are linked to the on screen menusetup issue, i.e., speaker setup.
Arbutusable 1 month ago
@Arbutusable
I have the same problem.
Evrything work ok, except menu on the screen.
Any idea?
witus7826 1 month ago
Thanks for the video!!!
I replaced the 5 caps with the 35v ones from Radio Shack and now my OSD is back and my HDMI switches almost instantly!!!
It's a nice sense of accomplishment to fix something like this myself and not need to take it to a repair shop.
bishontheweb 1 month ago
I would also like to add that I had a LOT of trouble detaching the board from the wire at that clip to take it out and work on it, so I just left it attached, stacked a couple books next to the receiver for the board to sit on and swung it over and rested it on the books while I soldered it. That clip would just not let go, and I broke a little piece off it so I didn't want to risk it any more. I felt like the wires were going to pull right out of the clip/harness thing. :0
tk421808 1 month ago
Thx for sharing this excellent info! Real shame to see this occurring with so many Onkyo devices. Makes me wonder how much we can trust the quality of Onkyo. I'm owning a RT-960 and experienced this problem right from the start. Have been pulling my hair out for years to find out why it wasn't working correctly. Put the blame on myself all the time for not using proper cables or settings. I'm hoping Onkyo will take their responsibility and fix it. Still in a struggle with them about it though.
MrKoen1982 1 month ago
I was searching the internet because I wanted to find out of SR-607 has this same problem, but luckily I found this vid instead. I wasn't going to start replacing it because I'm not so experienced with electroniccs. But after seeing how easy it is I think I can't afford not to try. Thanks a lot, eddiekern!
theHartoxic 1 month ago
THANK YOU.
Before. all the same problems Video/Audio with HDMIsometimes would worl and most times would not.
AFTER. Video works great and sound was not working, open case and reseated the Black Power cables.
All good now, Parts from The Source had to buy 3 packs of the p/n 2729013 in Canada as they had nothing else. Each pack came with just 2 100UF 50V.
Never did this kind of work before, just put the soider on the Capacitors then the board was fast this way. and twist of the old one slow.
redron357 1 month ago
Great video, thanks very much. My repair didnt work however. The amp powers up fine, but I don't seem to get anything from the HDMI ports at all. On the AV display I dont get the flashing HDMI logo that usually appears when its trying to select the port, its almost like the HDMI board is getting no power. I have checked all the connections and the soldering of the new caps seemed to go fine. Anyone got any ideas what to check?
warehousegroup 1 month ago
Thanks for posting this video. It will save me from replacing what for all other reasons is a great receiver. I've done surface mount before so this should be straight forward, I just needed to know what components to replace. Again, thanks for the information.
- ShockSystem
shocksystem 1 month ago
Replaced 5 caps with a mix of 35 v & 50 v 100uf caps (on hand at local RadioShack). Also store brand 25W iron and some of the thinnest solder they had. $26.54 all told. Before: HDMI took several minutes for video or sound to come on and most times had to power cycle or switch back and forth between inputs. Analog was much worse and would take 15 minutes with power cycling to get video but audio came on immediately. Not sure about OSD on HDMI but worked on RCA. After: all video/audio comes up ev
capnblackhotmail 1 month ago
Hi,
I replaced all 5 caps but now i'm getting a clicking noise & can't power on the amp.
Red standby light flicks on/off. I have soldered black 12v & gnd cables directly to hdmi board to rule out touching cables/damaged connector any idea's here would really be appreciated.
Thanks,
IB
brennianski 1 month ago
Hi,
Managed to fix mine over the weekend. Handshake happens almost instantly which is great!! Although I'm not get the OSD?!?!
Anyway, it works 10x quicker now. Thanks for the help!
A
Atout84 1 month ago
How was it that you determined that those specific caps were faulty? With some electrolytic caps, you can see a bulge or even leaking, but I saw no obvious signs in the video.
LNMagic 1 month ago
This was a good fix. I got the receiver free from someone on freecycle who complained that the HDMI switching took forever. I replaced the caps with tantalum capacitors. They're said to be more stable and heat resistant. Watch the polarity, though, as with electrolytic capacitors. All is working as it should, including configuration menu. Thanks.
qkelvin15 1 month ago
Awesome~ Thanks so much. Your fix worked perfectly on my HT-R960 with a mix of caps from Radioshack. Saved me a few hundred bucks.
chansongaah 1 month ago
Silly question, but is this the same exact fix for the HT-R960? Or are you simply saying that model is also known to have this issue?
IrieRays 1 month ago
@IrieRays The HT-R960 has the exact same HDMI board as the TX-SR606, so the fix will be exactly the same.
eddiekern 1 month ago
OMG, I'm dying to try this! I've been having handshake issues for over a year now. But my receiver MAY still be under warranty. Does anyone know if it'll void the warranty if I try this first? I'm pretty impatient.
IrieRays 1 month ago
@IrieRays This is a perfect example of something that will absolutely void your warranty.
eddiekern 1 month ago
Excellent video. I have a TX-SR606 that was experiencing the same thing as the others. When switching from cable to my wdtv sometimes it would take 10 minutes for audio and display to show up. I made the updates as you posted switching out the 5 caps and the problem seemed to go away at first. Now after a few hours of use I lose the display. Is this due to overheating? Do you guys think I need to replace the rest of the 100uf 4V caps as someone else has posted?
osucoop78 1 month ago
This fix worked for me. Before the fix, my the 606 would cut off when PS3 or xbox360 was the source, the setup menu would not appear on the TV, constantly said "No Signal" on the 606 LCD display, and was just unreliable in switching between HDMI sources. After the fix, HDMI switching was quick and responsive, setup menu appeared on the OSD, no more random power losses with 360 or PS3, and all is well. Thank you Ed, good video!
dkendri 1 month ago
Thanks for the demo. I was able to fix my 606 with no trouble at all. However, even though the HDMI switching did come back, I still do not have the onscreen display back, but I can live without it. After all, I've been without it for 2 years! I will need to purchase a cooling fan as I've already seen signs of it overheating again. Every time I would change the tv channel, I would have no audio. I put a fan on it, and instantly it worked like a champ.
QBBabb 1 month ago
Sweet! Ed, you're the man. Prior to the repair, I couldn't get a picture on my TV unless my DirecTV receiver was set to 420p (or i). Also, the Onkyo OSD didn't work. Further, I couldn't get component video to work, although I didn't spend a lot of time on it and it could have been a case of not hooking it up correctly. After the repair, my DirevTV box can be set to 720 or 1080 and the picture comes up quickly. Also, OSD now works. Thanks again!
jollywhitefoot 1 month ago
Hello guys i tried to perform this fix , and tried to check if it worked before put the black cover back together, and my receiver wont turn on, i only got the red stand by light blinking and making a click noise every other second, it was ok before i tried the fix,any help? thanks.
specialwagnerbr 1 month ago
@specialwagnerbr Check the black cable and make sure that each of the 5 wires is in the correct spot, that would be the first thing to check followed by the white connectors on the side, followed by the soldering connections.
eddiekern 1 month ago
One suggestion: You show how to reassemble the device but not how to take the board out in the first place. That would have been helpful.
Your video was very helpful and much appreciated. Thank you!
rickilea 1 month ago
Before: About 50% of the time, I could hear but not see the Wii (tried both component and composite cables with same result). Turing the receiver on and off would eventually solve the issue. The issue seemed to be getting worse over time. Onkyo was not helpful and insisted the issue was my settings. I purchased the capacitors from Radio Shack and replaced them a few minutes ago.
After: It seems to be working flawlessly. I tested all the inputs I use regularly and they work fine.
rickilea 1 month ago
Hi Eddie,
Thanks for the great video. It's things like this that make this internet thing really shine. Do it yourselfers helping others
I have a TX-SR607 that is doing exactly as you have described. I will assume for now that the fix is the same and will order the caps. Is the PN you list for MCM for the right size parts or the ones that you show in the video? Do you think the fix is the same for the '607?
DryGuy11 1 month ago
@DryGuy11 The HDMI board on your 607 is different than the one from this video. The product # for the caps from MCM are correct, I just got sent the wrong ones. Ultimately your best bet is to cruise the HiDef Forum for a fix.
eddiekern 1 month ago
@eddiekern Hi Eddie,
Thanks for the reply. Actually, I ended up ordering the caps from Digi-Key (PN PCE4129CT-ND) for 0.47USD each. They also have hi-temp version (PN PCE4801CT-ND) I will post on the Hi-Def forums to see which caps.
DryGuy11 1 month ago in playlist Favorite videos
Hey I wonder if you can help I have a 605 but my problem is different
I have video and OSD but I have no sound threw HDMI where I use to?
Thanks
whitefishdoug 1 month ago
@whitefishdoug Sorry, I have no idea. You'll be best served taking a look at the HiDef Forum.
eddiekern 1 month ago
One note: I was able to remove the white ribbon/tape cable that connects to the HDMI board by pressing on the white plastic connector but I couldn't remove the black cables. I just did all the soldering with the black cable still attached to the HDMI board. Not a very comfortable position but I didn't want to risk breaking the connection to the black cables.
dennisrodz 1 month ago
Woooohhooooo, YES!!!!! Ed many, many thanks. Problems started about 2 years ago when the On Screen Menu didn't show up. Then I started having problems with switching the HDMI ports. It gradually became worst to the point where I could use my AppleTV or PS3 anymore. I replaced the 5 caps with 100uF 10Watts pod capacitors I found at a local store. It worked like a charm. It switches very fast and I couldn't hear the clicking sound it made before. Thanks again Ed.
dennisrodz 1 month ago
Ed, I appreciate the great video. After replacing the caps (had to use a mix of 35v/50v caps from Radioshack due to availability) the output has a blue tint and the image is heavily pixelated. HDMI switching is fine. I've checked the ribbon cable and all connections and they're good. I've reheated and checked all the solder joints. No change, still blue. One thing I haven't done is completed unsoldered, cleaned up the contacts, and resoldered. Any suggestions?
Thanks again for the great video.
mcmurm11 1 month ago
@mcmurm11 You've done everything I would have done. The only thing I can think to do is to desolder and resolder.
eddiekern 1 month ago
@eddiekern Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and unsoldered/resoldered the caps, no change. Went a step further and removed all 100uf 4v caps and replaced them with Nippon 100uf 10v, high temp (105c), low ESR caps. Still no change. :( My iron is only 30 watts, cheap from Radioshack, and doesn't heat the solder as quick as I'd like, which required longer contact than typical. The only thing I can think of is that I probably overheated a semiconducter somewhere. Not sure where though.
mcmurm11 1 month ago
@mcmurm11 One last repairable possibility is checking the pins on the 3 white connectors on the right, if a pin is bent that could do it. If not, then I truly am out of ideas, sorry it didn't work out for you.
eddiekern 1 month ago
@eddiekern I did see those RGB pins, and it does make sense (blue tint = lacking red color). I checked the ribbon cable and it feels like it's inserting fine but I didn't check the actual pin inside the connector. I think I might just pay it a little more attention when I get home. No worries if it doesn't fix the issue. The video was a great help to many others.
mcmurm11 1 month ago
Further to my earlier two posts - I took a look again at one of the new caps I had previously soldered. The one on the back at the bottom right did not look great - so I replaced it. Not sure if I had fried the cap or it was just my poor soldering. Anyway - all now works perfectly. This would therefore indicate that this particular cap relates to composite upscaling and OSD. Hope this helps someone else. Thanks again, Ed.
CharlesUK1 1 month ago
Ed. Thanks you! This was my winter project.. used the radio shack caps, was a little snug, but got the board back in after my first time soldering. After turning it on, I was amazed to find it running perfectly after the last 3 months of not being used due to the inability to switch between hdmi's. Thanks again and happy holidays!
diadoram 1 month ago
This worked great. Be careful as you pull a little hard de-soldering the old caps, as lifted a bit of the trace on two.
rtbenoit01 1 month ago
Thanks Eddie! You saved me some real cash. The fix worked perfectly with the radio shack caps. My soldering job was not that good and I didnt even totally remove the board from the cabinet, cause I didnt want to jack up that white clip, since it was giving me a hard time taking it off. Did the work and it is up and running perfectly! THanks again! Dmac
danamacfi 1 month ago
Further to earlier post - a question -
I used 100uF 25v caps from Maplin (UK equiv to Radio Shack). First time I have soldered anything - so a bit messy to begin with! Hopefully okay - but will check back.
Followed instructions - including push down on white connector to remove black wires. All no problem.
My question - if I see all soldering is good - is there a way to check that the caps are working? See my post below where I mention partial success - it's just the XBox composite and OSD.
CharlesUK1 1 month ago
@CharlesUK1 There are some multimeters that measure capacitance. I got one from amazon for about $20.
eddiekern 1 month ago
Ed - thanks very much for your video. Very clear instructions.
Before: Any HD TV signal would cause TV to black out for a few seconds at a time. XBox comp signal would not hook up easily and I had to switch on and off of TV, XBox and Onkyo to get the connection. OSD did not work.
After: HD TV and DVD - work perfectly - but XBox composite hook up and OSD remains an issue - though I can get it to work if each time I unplug XBox composites from Onkyo and plug back in to alternative composite port.
CharlesUK1 1 month ago
First time I've ever posted to You Tube. My receiver has been going out for about a year now. There was no On Screen Display and I had to keep switching from source to source and turning unit on and off in the hopes of having HDMI come on line.
Yesterday morning I had had enough. I took off 6 caps instead of 5 as I got confused as to which to remove. After replacing all caps, unit works just fine. Thanks a million as I was about to buy another unit but definitely not Onkyo.
PharmerJohn1 2 months ago
Chalk up another winner Ed. I replaced the five caps using the part # and store you mentioned. I think the HDMI switches faster than it did when I first bought it. :) I have a sharp point soldering iron that I was able to put on the edge of the bad capacitors solder points, I didn't have to pry them off as you suggested. The old solder melted just enough to release them. Thanks a bunch!
Mikedu1962 2 months ago
Before:
DVD and Game/TV port did not work, at all. HDMI did not transfer sound.
After:
All ports functioning. Sound works perfectly.
Some tips:
- Wiggle the old capacitors to loosen them (do NOT pull)
- To remove the two electrical cords from the circuit board, just pull the cord (make sure to press down on the plastic so that it does not loosen from the circuit board)
- Make sure that you know what is plus/minus on the capacitors
tobieone99 2 months ago
Hey, tried it and it worked fine. Just wondering what those extra capacitors are for that your have on those semiconductors? Are those speed up caps?
SuperDisco91 2 months ago
One thing I learned was when removing the legs of the old capacitors from the board, be sure to only gently wiggle them back and forth until they fall off easily. DO NOT PULL. I accidently peeled the layer of the board with the traces off like an onion. fortunately, I could still solder to the fine edge that was left and everything works fine. But gently wiggling it back and forth until it detaches is the way to go. Hope this helps.
overload28 2 months ago
P.S. I used 100uf / 50V Capacitors from RadioShack.
tk421808 2 months ago
@tk421808 That's what I used too. Much larger but works just fine so far.
overload28 2 months ago
Hi, Ed, thanks for the Vid! I just fixed mine yesterday, I'm psyched it's working again.
BEFORE: Switching degraded from occasional to having to switch back & forth, turn on/off receiver and/or TV. Got prgsvly worse until it was unusable and I had to run the HDMI straight from *Insert Hardware* to the TV, and the audio had to be run in Via optical, or stereo jacks.
AFTER: HDMI Switching Fixed - Switching is immediate, and no longer "Clicks" over, OSD is back up and running [Three thumbs up]
tk421808 2 months ago
Hi Eddie thank you so much, I will try that and tell you if it worked! I sent my receiver to the repqir shop, they charged me $1500!!! Brazil sometimes let my self crazy...
bzanchet 2 months ago
Hi Ed! Thank you very much for the video! I just have one problem: one of the conectors of power gnd, 12v, gnd... broke and got stuck into the little withe box on the board, what should i do? Try soldering it back together? Thank you!!
bzanchet 2 months ago
@bzanchet That happened to me when I took the board off a second time for the video. I pushed the white cover down and removed the extra piece with needle nose pliers, and stripped back the black plastic a bit and trimmed all the wires to the same length. There are plenty of "right" ways to do it, do whatever you feel most comfortable with
eddiekern 2 months ago
@eddiekern I just repaired mine last night and totally screwed up the white socket where the black wires plug into. I ended up desoldering the connector on the board and soldered new wires directly to the board. The HDMI board isn't easily removable anymore but I can always desolder it again if it ever comes to that. Works great now. Thanks for the help.
overload28 2 months ago
NOTE: Getting the solder to stick on the negative side was more tricky than the positive side for some unknown reason. I found that tinning (putting a blob of solder) on the new capacitors legs rather than the board worked much better for me when soldering. Eventually the solder took to the board and stuck nice and solid. Also solder Positive side first.
Sophndave 2 months ago
WORKED A TREAT!!! Parts used from Maplin were 100uF 10V Radial 85degC Electrolytic capacitors. (Maplin PT No: VH36 £0.21ea)
Before: No sync at all, no OSD went out and bought a hdmi switcher to battle this.
After: It's like the day got it, switching takes about 1 sec, Wii (connected by component in), HTPC works flawlessly including Dolby TrueHD & DTS-HD MA audio formats. Sky HD works great to.
Sophndave 2 months ago
I'm heading off to Maplin (UK's version of Radioshack) tomorrow to get these caps. They only have 10V and 25V ones so have reserved 10 of each. If it works I will post up PT NO's for them for any UK users wanting to fix theirs.
Sophndave 2 months ago
This worked for me. This was my first time soldering. Receiver works perfectly. Thanks for this video.
mdf0417 2 months ago
I just tried this fix. I got video for a minute or two. Then it went fuzy, and now a black screen. It worked before but had to wait 5-10 min for the signal come through. Now it doesn't work at all!
saleenride 2 months ago
@saleenride Try taking the board out an putting it back again, sounds like it may be an issue with a connection from the board.
eddiekern 2 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@eddiekern Hey there, I can't get the 5 pin 12volt cable off. I'm pulling, but it doesn't come up. Is there a trick? Thanks
Mikedu1962 2 months ago
Hi Ed
thanks for a great viedo. I have the same problem, but with my TX-SR 608. the HDMI is dead, meaning I don´t get even the meny up to my projector. The Onkyo repair in Madrid wants 300€ to fix it. They claim that they have to change the whole board. Would appreciate advise on this. thanks a lot.
leomad01 2 months ago
owned it for years before it started failing takng longer and longer to accept the signal. tv broke and switched to a different tv. when i fixed the tv it would no longer accept the singal no matter how long I waited. I ended up knocking a small chip off the board near the plastic pop rivet. luckily i was able to solder it back on. I also snapped one of the power wires and ended up having to remove the plastic connector and solder the wires directly. thanks for the fix, saved my ass.
nemxwasp 2 months ago
Worked like a charm
Before : Analog RCA input from Wii console was very erratic - video would not show up most of the time. Also intermittent problems getting HDMI from Samsung DVD player to show up.
After : All input types working flawlessly. Switching inputs is a breeze.
Caution : One of the caps on the rear side is crowded with some other components. If you have a soldering gun with a broad tip, make sure to handle it carefully, otherwise you might nuke some other components.
krishnanashwin 2 months ago
Hi, I was wondering if you could help me, I have an old Kenwood Sterio intergrated Amplifier KA-52, the problem is that when I play music or games etc, one of my speakers will cut out (not same speaker they both cut out at different times when they feel like it, I have replaced all my speaker wiring with good quality cabling but still it happens, Plus it may help to know the power is still on and one speaker will always work, Would you possibly have an idea on what might be the problem? Thanks
J3TPILOT1991 2 months ago
Performed this fix tonight, using the capacitors you listed. It worked great. Thanks SO much!!!
TrickyZ33 2 months ago
This worked great!!! It saved me like $200. I have the onkyo HT-R667. I went to radio shack and followed the steps.. Thanks for the video..
alhaddad09 2 months ago
I would really like to thank you. I had the same problem, but no warranty anymore (went to Onkyo but they turned me down...) I got the HDMI board and went to a local electronic store and they fixed this for me for 30 euro. Put it back and got it perfectlyworking again!! THANK YOU! Good video, good comment and nicely explained. A++
goukipau 2 months ago in playlist Favorite videos
Had all 5 recommended capacitors changed with right parts from MCM but had to strip back small black flat cable as broke 2 of 5 wires pricing it out of housing(before I realised it was spring loaded!!) but now gone from picture flickering after 45 mins on bluray/games on PS3 to the tv not recognising the HDMI at all?? Confused.com-what have I done wrong as most other people seem to having success with the fix......
jacethemace 2 months ago
I tried changing to another input without any difference. Also did a reset on the receiver, did not help. As a last check, I have also checked the cable I am using so its not a bad one. anyone else having the same problem? HDMI switching works fine.
/Björn
pukebjorn 2 months ago
HDMI switching issues on my 606 also no OSD otherwise it seems to work fine. Have to run my PS3 & Wii direct to my TV and using toslink (to the 606) for audio. Debating whether or not I want to take on this fix. You make it look so easy in the video, haha. I'm just an avg. joe w/ zero electronics repair/soldering experience. What skill level do you recommend this fix for? Good video however.
OneAmerican1776 2 months ago
@OneAmerican1776 It's not hard, even with no soldering experience. If your feeling uneasy about it, just do what I did ... wait until the inconvenience of waiting for HDMI switching outweighs the fear of breaking the stupid thing. Looking through the comments may help give you confidence. Others have done it with no prior experience. Good luck
eddiekern 2 months ago
@eddiekern
I suggest to use higher voltage capacitors (10-16V) perhaps even better quality tantalum caps to keep them from future breakdowns. It does not have to be surface mount capacitors, there is plenty of room on the board to put bigger and more robust caps. That is what I will do tomorrow.
TheJopa62 2 months ago
Thanks for the video! This fixed my receiver. BTW, anybody doing this fix should replace _all_ the 100uf 4v capacitors (10 in total). I have an ESR tester for these, and every single one of them was bad.
jweismiller 2 months ago
A huge thanks for posting this. I went the Radio Shack route for the parts. I am by no means an expert at soldering but with your instructions, it was pretty easy. My TX-SR606 works better than new with all HDMI ports working correctly (HTPC and Wii) as well as the return of all of my on-screen menus. I had first thought the problem was with my HTPC but soon the Wii stopped working as well. Thanks to you I save $500 on a new amp!
jimshank 2 months ago
HT-R960
Before: I could see the setup screen. All HDMI-HDMI connections. My cable box went from 5-10 seconds of load time to 5 minutes over the last few months. My PS3 has been taking anywhere from 5 minutes, to never actually loading.
After: Used 3 50v and 2 35v from Radio Shack. After swapping them out and turning it back on. All HDMI ports are switching in seconds. Soldering iron and all supplies cost $23 at Radio shack. Never soldered before...joins looked terrible, but just need contact.
whoop8384 2 months ago
Before games and blurays were cutting out on ps3 after about 1 hour so gave my circuit board to a guy who works on them for a living to fix but on return after replacing into main unit-nothing?! tv wont recognise any of the hdmi's at all but i have sound (bluray in ps3). after removing the circuit board to check the capacitors i've noticed he seems to have put one on the wrong way around (as per your still near start of vid)- is this the problem anyone??? help please......
jacethemace 2 months ago
Thanks for the video, it worked, at least partially. My HDMI-switch now works, no OSD however.
I replaced the caps with 6,3 volt, but apart from that they were identical. I am fortunate enough to have a neighbor with soldering skills, so I ordered the parts (about 8 €) and gave him a bottle of wine. Problem solved. Thanks again. P.s have not tried if the amp converts composite to HDMI yet.
pukebjorn 2 months ago
@pukebjorn Me again. The amp does not convert composite to HDMI - is this "normal"? At least the HDMI switch seem to work as it should.
Best
/Björn
pukebjorn 2 months ago
@pukebjorn My component convets components to HDMI without any issue, you may want to double check to make sure all the connections are 100%.
eddiekern 2 months ago
I finally got the black cables and white ribbon style cable disconnected but how do you remove the HDMI board from the other board (connected by the three connectors)? Do you just pull it out? I want to make sure before I break anything :p Someone please help
hawaiianboi2003 2 months ago
@hawaiianboi2003 Yep, you just pull it out, works best with a bit a wiggling.
eddiekern 2 months ago
@eddiekern Seems really snug. Wish me luck! Thanks for the quick response and help
hawaiianboi2003 2 months ago
@eddiekern Thanks for the quick response and help :)
hawaiianboi2003 2 months ago
Before: Took a while for the HDMI to output to the tv, no menus or audio either
After: Works perfectly
The part number listed in the description is not the large sized one that is in the video, but rather the correct size. I did not remove the base from the capacitor, I just soldered them on and it worked fine
heckler821 2 months ago
I had the problem where the audio did not work. I looked at the black ribbon cable and noticed that it was not fully connected. Two pins were not inserted correctly. Made sure that I had a solid connection on the cable and now my recieved is working perfect.
mackakpm 2 months ago
It worked like a charm. Thanks for your Video. Saved a lot of bucks.
xterminated 2 months ago
Ed - I have tried following your tutorial. As far as I have gotten was to begin removing the HDMI switcher card. I have been unsuccessful at removing the small black cable from the board, to the left of the small strip of of cabling that just slides out. I have tried taking a knife, pliers, and anything else to grip it, and pull it out, with no success. How is this to be removed? I am trying hard not to yank it too hard, I dont want to rip it off.
kyotodesertfox 3 months ago
@kyotodesertfox Push down in the center of the black wire connection to release the wires. Do the same when putting them back in. Pushing down will release the wires.
mdf0417 2 months ago
Hi Ed, we carried out your instruction on our Onkyo 606 because before repair we were having 'no signal' problems. After the repair we can connect to the signal but now have no sound. Onkyo service engineers suggest we need firmware update which is quite costly. Can you offer any advice on this new problem, Thank you in anticipation of a reply.
masihmagiks 3 months ago
@jerryhaney Test Point, which didn't work for long, my HDMI board failed entirely after 12 hours of use, the TP connection, although lucky, proved to not be able to maintain the current load and it failed.
@kndynt2099 stripping the wire shouldn't have effected the length of the wire, but if you accidentally cut the wires or otherwise, I suppose you could solder on an additional length and coat it, best with heatshrink. that may prove quite difficult, replacing the wire may not be any easier.
chris332277 3 months ago
Before: No Audio problems. Sat/Cab and DVD output - video started wavy, then disappeared, would re-appear after power down, then eventually no video regardless. Never waited longer than a few minutes for the handshake to occur. Receiver would click when switching inputs.
After: Works. no clicking, quick handshake. Replaced the same 5 caps as described with Radioshack #272-1028 and #272-1044
jerryhaney 3 months ago
Before:
HDMI inputs 2,3,4 intermittent lines on display (like digital version of movie theater image artifacts). Video/audio intermittently drops drops out for 1-7s. Input 1 not effected. No OSD.
After:
All HDMI inputs look GREAT! Probly better actually. OSD works(never noticed before...)
Notes:
I broke a cap lead from the PCB, be CAREFUL, soldered to neighboring TP, works. I used 100uf 35v, MORE ROBUST. 5 black wires...push down on top. Caps are tall, move wire ribbon to fit. <$10, 1Hr
chris332277 3 months ago
@chris332277 I broke a lead from the PCB as well. What is a TP?
jerryhaney 3 months ago
@kndynt2099 strip back a section of the wire shielding to approx 1/4 inch exposed wires (all five) and then press down on white cover, while holding down (with some force via a flat head screw driver) insert wires, then release pressure on cover prior to releasing pressure on wires...should do the trick.
chris332277 3 months ago
@chris332277 Hi Chris, Thanks. Here is another problem. I stripped the wires but I ended up stripping a bit much from one of the wires. Is there is any way to bridge another type of wire (similar to what we do with speaker wires and place electric tape) to this wire cable to extend the length? I'm not sure what kind of wires I can bridge.
kndynt2099 3 months ago
I was able to replace the capacitors but didn't work. I think with the 5 wires...ground 12v...ground 12v ground. When I pulled them out, some of the wires were still in the plastic. Was able to remove that and the wire remnants. The problem is that once I was all done, the five wires would not stay in. They kept coming out. I figured I needed more wire but they keeping coming out. Tried to electric tape them down to no avail.
kndynt2099 3 months ago
Before: Had the receiver for about 3 years. On Screen Display stopped working about a year ago. I didn't care much since I rarely used it. Receiver takes multiple minutes to recognize anything when first turned on. Cable box always worked after a few minutes. PS3 not recognized. HDMI from computer worked 25% of the time.
After: Used 100uf 50V caps from Radioshack. Now recognizes all HDMI ports within 3 seconds. OSD still not working but I dont care.
This was a huge help! Thank you!
bentley1230 3 months ago
how so you remove the 4 little black cables on the dip switch?
godfather81123 3 months ago
@godfather81123 push the white bracket down and the wire should come out. I did it with brute force, which wasn't the easiest way to go about it.
eddiekern 3 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@godfather81123 Push down in the center of the black wire connection to release the wires. Do the same when putting them back in. Pushing down will release the wires.
mdf0417 2 months ago
Worked perfectly!!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video and posting it!!!
TXBelle915 3 months ago
Comment removed
TXBelle915 3 months ago
@TXBelle915 push the white bracket down and the wire should come out. I did it with brute force, which wasn't the easiest way to go about it.
eddiekern 3 months ago
Worked on both my 606 but only one 100% the uthet one still has no OSD . I used 5.5 mm 100uf 4v caps from RS components in crawley west Sussex £10 delivered for 10. Lifted one track on the board on one cap but just gave a little scrap of the green to expose the copper and soldiered fine. Thanks for the vid saved me £££ and I have no 10 min wait for sync now.
MrSimonlight 3 months ago
In the part of the video where you solder one on, didnt you put that on the wrong way?
salteh22 3 months ago
@salteh22 yep, sure did. I was thinking more about making the video than payin attention to what I was doing. I thought I annotated that, but I must have forgot. Thanks for the reminder :)
eddiekern 3 months ago
Thanks for taking the time to post this fix. It worked like a charm. In the beginning I was worried because I ripped a bit of the board when pulling out one of the capacitors. But for a few dollars and for the first time, I don' t have to wait for the signal to come on. Thank you so much!
DonPompo 3 months ago
Wow!!...just WOW!!!...You just saved me a few hundred dollars. I was going to throw it away. The only thing I did is used 100uf, 6.3 volts because of local availability. $5 and done! According to the electronics store guy, I could go higher in voltage od the capacitor as long as the uf remained the same. THANK YOU!! thank you!! THANK YOU!!
ajju2209 3 months ago
At the following time stamps (front and back view of board)
1:18 and 1:30,
You have red somethings???
1 on front side, and 3 on back side. These are not something I have on mine? Are these parts, replacements, upgrades you have made to your board?
My problem with my receiver, is that while watching TV, and sometimes xbox/PC, the audio and video will switch off for a few seconds. Never had an issue with HDMI switching upon start up, though I don't have OSD. I bought 100uf 35v high temp caps.
Echo4Foxtrot78 3 months ago
@Echo4Foxtrot78 To be honest the picture was stolen from the HiDef Forum. The red dealies are film capacitors that are soldered to some voltage regulators, it is a way to make sure that the caps that I replace in the video don't give out again. I just figured I'd replace the caps again if they give out, because no one sells film caps (where polarity doesn't matter) near where I live.
eddiekern 3 months ago
@eddiekern
So I just did this today with no worries. Opened receiver and noticed a 10uf 50v leaking, and replaced that too. Now, no more A/V cutting in and out, and OSD now works (never noticed it till reading this forum). Thanks for the help!
Echo4Foxtrot78 3 months ago
@Echo4Foxtrot78 I had two receivers doing this. Replaced capacitors in both. One works great, the other I think i got two of the wires crossed in the wite connector. Now unit just clicks. Did I blow a fuse or any suggestions on what to try?
tharry1234 3 months ago
3 yr old Onkyo TX-SR606 . Issue began a year ago. Switching anywhere from 5-15 min. Cable/Sat ALWAYS worked instantly. The rest had delay problem. Especially PS3. Games worked after delay, Blu Rays NEVER. On screen setup gone. No surface mount caps locally. Used regular 100mfd 16v Electrolytic Capacitors. Cut leads and bent like in video. Soldered at angle so height ok. Oriented black stripe side to black half moon side on originals. Everything works PERFECTLY now. Great video! Thanks a ton!
offbeamdp 3 months ago
Unfortunately, it didnt work. :( My Samsung HDTV had the same problem (well, a power issue, which required replacing capacitors as well), and I fixed that, but this didn't work. But its probably my error trying to fix it. Upon taking off one of the capacitors, it tore some of the green board. Maybe that ruined it. It still turns on, but the same problem, it won't recognize the signal. Oh well.
GrooveWerx 3 months ago
Just did to fix to my TX-SR606. Used the caps from Radio shack. Working great - watching a movie right now.. Major props for the detailed instructions.
sjsvclendennen 3 months ago
Worked great for my HT-R667 too. I didn't have any soldering experience either. I purchased the capacitors at Radio Shack per your instructions, followed the rest of your instructions and after about 20-30 minutes it works great. Thanks for the great video.
dtsammons 3 months ago
Is there a permanent fix?
SuperDisco91 3 months ago
Worked for my TX-SR606, bought the Radio Shack capacitors. Took about 15-20 min. Now it switches within seconds. Save me alot because i was gonna replace it already.
Thank you very much for the very detailed video and instructions.
destrada254 3 months ago
Worked perfect for me. Thanks a lot
xterminated 3 months ago
This worked perfectly for my Onkyo HT-R667! Thank you so much for such an awesome and helpful video. I had no prior soldering experience and had never taken apart any electronic equipment before. The soldering is definitely tricker than it looks but after some practice I got the hang of it. Don't worry if your blobs of solder look too big or messy, in the end it just seems like a solid connection to the capacitor is what matters.
bizzap620 3 months ago
Thanks for your exellent video, I had the same problem with my amplifier, but after replacing the capacitators it worked perfect again. Quite fiddly to solder the new capacitators but with some effort it worked!
Best regards from Sweden :-)
martinbondeus 3 months ago
I removed the board and had a friend who is handy with soldering circuit boards replace the caps. He used 100mf, 35 and 40v. HDMI handshake would take 5 min+ for xbox and blu-ray (sat box always OK). Works perfectly now. Went from pricing out replacement receivers to getting it fixed for price of fast food lunch. This was all after I dropped the board twice! Thank you for the great explanation.
steverh78 3 months ago
I just got replacing mine with the radioshack capacitors, thank you for this great video, you da saved me $75.
TINGISHA28 3 months ago
great video your guide was perfect so easy to do and cost £1.20 for capacitors from maplin you saved me big time thanks
quest424 4 months ago
If your having problems I feel bad for you son, I got 99 problems but my TX-SR606 isn't one
Viisven 4 months ago
Just an FYI guys, same problems here after warranty expired about 10 months ago, called onkyo and there willing to fix it for free with a faxed copy of my bill.
D0B0Y1 4 months ago
Great video. I am having the exact same problem. I am going to try fixing it myself tomorrow. Now if I wanted to replace the entire HDMI board, you have any idea where to get it and the cost? Thanks again for this awesome detailed video.
harryhoudini66 4 months ago
@harryhoudini66 I got some 100mf 35v from Radioshack. The first time it did not work but my soldering was just horrible. Only the second time I do it. I then removed them and did them again but this time without fear and it worked perfectly. My PS3 is detected within 3 seconds or so. Used to take 10-20 minutes before.
harryhoudini66 4 months ago
This is total BS I sent my receiver in and they are telling me it is working normal now. I said it was an intermittent problem, and they said it should still show up. I KNOW, KNOW when I get it back to my house it is going to start doing this crap again, and they will tell me my warranty is done. I'm going to be very upset if this happens, and will be calling onkyo approximately twice a day until it is fixed.
hornedfrog2000 4 months ago
This video helped me out BIG TIME! Worked like a charm! I used 100uf 25v capacitors. Don't know how long my amp is gonna last but is working fine. Thanks for the video!! I will not be buying any ONKYO products in the near future!
CanadianEaglesFan7 4 months ago
Before: HDMI handshake problem. Sometimes handshake took 30.min. After: HDMI handshake right away :) I used 5x 100uf 63v caps from Brinck Elektronik in Copenhagen. Thanks a bunch :)
skirk1983 4 months ago
Excellent video! I was having the same issue with my SR606 in that it took approximately 10 min of warm up time before I would get video. The audio would cut in and out until the unit warmed up. Had the cable company replace the cable box and no change. Watched your video and went to Radio Shack and bought their 100uf caps. Installed them on the board by laying them horizontally on the circuit board to save space. Took about 45 min start to finish and now everything works flawlessly.
skipjaw53 4 months ago
Good video...I'm 62 years old and have in electronics for a long time. but I never knew how to replace these caps.
whiskeyify 4 months ago
Wonderful video! Mine just broke down on me with similar issues BUT i can get 480p signals picture and sound just fine. These past few weeks the signal would pass through but the picture quality would have fuzzy lines until it became clear after a few minutes.
I have no OSD picture and no signals that are HD..... So was wondering if this fix will solve everything?
I bought my onkyo with circuit city was closing down... never registered for the warranty......
COMMAND ME! WHAT SHOULD I DO!
RAMBOJVR 4 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Wish I read a bit of the comments first!
"HOW TO DISCONNECT THE WHITE POWER CONNECTOR."
would have saved me a few more minutes...but none the less...this still only took about 30 minutes to complete...just popped those little stinkers right off and dropped a dab of solder on...took the Radio Shack units and cut them shorter...bent the tips out...and heated the solder to the tips...easy 123.
Thanks a TON...the receiver is too nice to go out like that!!!
inverted2000 4 months ago
@mattuk180586
I know you've fixed it, but for others wondering:
HOW TO DISCONNECT THE WHITE POWER CONNECTOR.
Push down into the white power connector, this will release the black cables. Easy as pie.
bobolee1 4 months ago
I eventually got it off, but I was afraid I was going to break it if I pulled too hard. I couldn't figure out how to get those 4 black wires out of the white connector either. I worked on the board with that still attached. Thank you so much for this video. You saved me $350. I was about to go buy the new TX-SR609 and give up on this one. By the way, the one I fixed was the TX-SR606.
mattuk180586 4 months ago in playlist mattuk180586's Favorited Videos
Just did this process last night and it fixed the problem! Before I could only get one HDMI input to work and all of the others would not show a picture or audio. I bought the 100uf 35V from Radioshack and they worked. The only thing you have to do with those is bend them over to the side because they will not clear the bottom mother board of the component inputs straight up and down. Another problem I had was figuring out exactly how to remove the mother board. Maybe give a little more detail.
mattuk180586 4 months ago in playlist mattuk180586's Favorited Videos
Mine worked perfectly. It took me maybe 30 minutes and that includes gathering up my tools. I used the 100mf 35V from Radioshack. The black (negative) side of the new capacitor matches up to the black side of the original capacitor. I cut the leads straight off about 1/4" instead of turning them out. This seemed to make it easier to attach.Drop some extra solder on the board, set your capacitor lead on top of the blob and heat it up while pushing down and it should go right into the blob. Thanks
RallyGonz 4 months ago
had an issue with 2 of my hdmi inputs taking some time to work,and also no on screen display,found this video and got my brother to get the parts and fit them (he does soldering and works with circuit boards etc)
im glad to say it now works perfectly!
thanks for the video :0)
dude541 4 months ago
what type of solder did you use?
impactradio 5 months ago
I am having trouble finding 100 microfarad 4v capacitors. Is it okay to use a 10v?
TheRealChuckG 5 months ago