Lads, are we talking about technology which locks the fuck up every time you put some sweat or hand grease on it? If so, I'd suggest rebuilding other kinds of engines. I'm not touchin' anything which is supposed to spin a wheel so powerfully that it requires handling with plastic gloves to protect it from myself.
I didn't know modern engines are so sensitive to (mostly verbal or written) bullshit.
you might know your shit but your sloppy man.. im in no way a hater i just got trained by guys who build rally engines, and i mean second hand ex. wrc corrola rally cars. not no 30 whatever boat anchor lol.. go slap a big stupid carb on it to and jet it assways lol.. those v's are more basic than a scania diesel of the late 80's . not hatin just sayin, gloves never use compresed air near an open engine. your working in a open area, dust, dirt, sweat and oil from hands.thumb prints on shells ffs
Umm. Plasitigauge??? Clean hands and work area?? Gloves so skin oil doesnt get on bearings?? All that stuff is important for a good long running engine and you skipped all of it. Go you. Get back in the parts truck and get parts.
@keyofdavid888 the 400 size of bore has a tendincy to blow up alot..but me im building a 355ci...and im the same way why not just go with a 400...BUT if i went with a 400 id buy a dart block of Aftermarket stronger block
@srtrcr How do you know he doesnt know ? I mean there were a few things odd about his video but Im sure the engine worked out fine. Obviously its just a mild street 383 for an average hot rod, why be such a prick to the guy ?
2:38 Theres no pressure on your tangs,these are simply for locating the bearing, bearing crush keeps them from spinning not tangs. The only reason for putting the tangs facing outward is because that places the chamfered side of the rod towards the cheek of the crank where the chamfer must clear the radius where the journal and cheek meet. I doubt you'd even be able to put both rods on with the rods backwards because there would be zero side clearance.
@brads3111: They should have clearanced the block (by grinding on it) before takeing it to the machine shop.The way it was done you stand a chance of having metal shavings with in the crank case & oil passages (even if they wash it). Also that is an ENGINE not a motor, motors run on electricity and engines need fuel air ignition and combustion.
In manufacturing you'll see this alot, its simply because to link two bores within a casting you have to drill two holes through and plug the ends where you dont want oil to go. in this case the other end of that hole in the rear main parting line where that plug goes is at the top of the block just behind the intake manifold and its where the oil pressure sending unit or line runs to for an oil pressure gauge. Trust me Chevy knew what they were doing.
Im not a genius... anyway you would oil up the entire engine... you would not oil the bottom of the friction bearings only the top in order not to spin a bearing. as regards the grease, you could pack the oil pump with grease or just some vasiline... primarily you would use oil for the engine components... Sorry i didnt get back to you earlier, ive been crazy busy sir.
@Waizu91 they took it to a machine shop. The shop can drop it in a hot tank which uses a special solution and high heat to remove grease and sludge or they can thermal clean it, which is done by cooking the engine at high heat to turn residue to ash and then blasting it with a superfine medium like steel sand or glass, I don't know what the common one is.
There's other ways too but those are the common methods
First off PLEASE wash your hands! you shouln't touch the bearing surface with your bare hands the acids on your skin will damage the bearing material, not to mention all the dirt on your fingers. You should also completely wash the block, brush oil passages including the crankshaft New cranks are full of machining debris. All that crap will go straight into your nice new bearings.
you should use protectors when installing your pistons in order to protect your crankshaft. Everything is measured to .001 of an inch so you really need to be careful. Use protecting sleaves.
At the end of this video you guys said to go to part 4 at the end but the next video is part 3. The numbers are off by one thoughout the rest of this rebuild videos. Just letting you know. By the way thanks for this series of videos lot of help. Thank you.
i was watching box wrench DVD and what they do when they are instaling new bearings is put those bearing into the engine and run grinding stone , now the reason for that is the new bears when instaled into the engine there kinda slightly oval and they need to be perfectly circular then they put in the new crank,,,,,am i mentioning a good point
So huge newb question... The crank is all that needs to be balanced? I'm getting ready to build a 383 I wanna get into auto service tech class and I figure I might as well try to learn ahead of time do you need longer connecting rods to add to that longer stroke? or can you keep the old?
You said on the rods the tang always points outward is this true for all 350's? I have a '71 350 I'm about to rebuild and i was wondering if the same rules apply.
@TheCarGuy92 yes, on ALL chevy small blocks this rule Must be followed or you will have spun rod and crank bearings. Its quite hard to mess it up on the crank tho, because theres arrows on the tops of the main caps and if you put the main caps in with the arrows TOWARDS the front of the motor you will be fine......just god done building one check my channel.
you didn't use gloves when putting in the bearings or the crankshaft??? Most Pro. mechanics will tell you to use gloves when handling the crank and bearings. if you get grease, oils etc from your fingers on your crank, that can basically ruin your crank by means of a form of hydrolic pressure. They also didn't store there crank right, if you store a crank for any period of time you should hanging it or standing it on end. w/o support it will "creep" out of shape.
In your rebuild you did not show checking clearance on the bearings. You must have a high level of confidence that machine shops do not make mistakes.
Mike, great tip about that galley oil plug. It wouldn't be a great day to have no oil on a brand new new engine, ha ha.
Say, 'engine assembly lube' is not sold at stores I go to. Would wheel bearing grease work just as well? That's sold everywhere.
How much does it cost to have the block and heads machined? If you disregard all installation labour, how much do you spend to rebuild your own engine with no modification?
@dasfkid01 he prolly didnt feel like doing num 2 after all the bench racers and book readers started telling him everything he did was no good. Im not saying this guys building winning NASCAR engines or anything, but jeez some of the criticism is really uneccesary and unproductive.
Lads, are we talking about technology which locks the fuck up every time you put some sweat or hand grease on it? If so, I'd suggest rebuilding other kinds of engines. I'm not touchin' anything which is supposed to spin a wheel so powerfully that it requires handling with plastic gloves to protect it from myself.
I didn't know modern engines are so sensitive to (mostly verbal or written) bullshit.
AdrianMuravey 6 days ago
Baby size main caps
McG33Productions 4 weeks ago
I think ill just buy a new engine for my 5.0
JuOn666 1 month ago
you might know your shit but your sloppy man.. im in no way a hater i just got trained by guys who build rally engines, and i mean second hand ex. wrc corrola rally cars. not no 30 whatever boat anchor lol.. go slap a big stupid carb on it to and jet it assways lol.. those v's are more basic than a scania diesel of the late 80's . not hatin just sayin, gloves never use compresed air near an open engine. your working in a open area, dust, dirt, sweat and oil from hands.thumb prints on shells ffs
nickernosher 1 month ago
Umm. Plasitigauge??? Clean hands and work area?? Gloves so skin oil doesnt get on bearings?? All that stuff is important for a good long running engine and you skipped all of it. Go you. Get back in the parts truck and get parts.
srtrcr 1 month ago
@srtrcr So have you ever built/ rebuilt an engine ? Or are you just a reader ?
12salem 3 weeks ago
why not just build a 400?
keyofdavid888 1 month ago
@keyofdavid888 lighter with the same amount of power would be my guess
jsnyara 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@keyofdavid888 lighter with the same amount of power would be my guess
jsnyara 1 month ago
@keyofdavid888 the 400 size of bore has a tendincy to blow up alot..but me im building a 355ci...and im the same way why not just go with a 400...BUT if i went with a 400 id buy a dart block of Aftermarket stronger block
Codythecartaker 1 month ago
I would realy love to have you build a engine for me. You just remember my name BiglongJon21 i will be contacting you in the near future.
BigLongJon21 1 month ago
@BigLongJon21 Do not let this guy touch your engine. He really doesnt know what he is doing.
srtrcr 1 month ago
@srtrcr How do you know he doesnt know ? I mean there were a few things odd about his video but Im sure the engine worked out fine. Obviously its just a mild street 383 for an average hot rod, why be such a prick to the guy ?
12salem 3 weeks ago
2:38 Theres no pressure on your tangs,these are simply for locating the bearing, bearing crush keeps them from spinning not tangs. The only reason for putting the tangs facing outward is because that places the chamfered side of the rod towards the cheek of the crank where the chamfer must clear the radius where the journal and cheek meet. I doubt you'd even be able to put both rods on with the rods backwards because there would be zero side clearance.
ATC250Rguy 1 month ago
Is that a mail truck on the lift behind him?
kc0iqi 1 month ago
whats your clearance Clarence?
cool video :-)
lushearguitars 1 month ago
I am not saying you don’t know what you’re doing but every one and i mean every one tells me never use molly lube on the bearings just oil....
mkubiak67 1 month ago
what about heat and swell factor? will the block not swell inward as well? slightly?
when heated and cold ,metals contract,and expand, i was wondering what ppl thought, i never got to b uild my pontiac stroker motor least not yet
musiclovr2 1 month ago
y 2 rebuild an engine that shhhht cost a lot better yet buy a new engine or new car
jhep1985 1 month ago
Eagle=Bunch of worthless junk from china. Do it right, go Lunati!
simracr94 1 month ago
at 9:20 your so happy that its all going to fit and work with minimum clearness..
gremlinkiller 1 month ago
wow you guys really know what your doing thanks alot!
brads3111 1 month ago
@brads3111: They should have clearanced the block (by grinding on it) before takeing it to the machine shop.The way it was done you stand a chance of having metal shavings with in the crank case & oil passages (even if they wash it). Also that is an ENGINE not a motor, motors run on electricity and engines need fuel air ignition and combustion.
FABRIC8TIONUNLIMITE1 1 month ago
So why the &*$@ does the oil plug galley thing even exist? Yeah, I pretty much want the oil going through the filter there GM.
michaelhpedersen 2 months ago
@michaelhpedersen
In manufacturing you'll see this alot, its simply because to link two bores within a casting you have to drill two holes through and plug the ends where you dont want oil to go. in this case the other end of that hole in the rear main parting line where that plug goes is at the top of the block just behind the intake manifold and its where the oil pressure sending unit or line runs to for an oil pressure gauge. Trust me Chevy knew what they were doing.
ATC250Rguy 1 month ago
i got that same lube, i like to put it in my butt
oSHOLLIVERo 2 months ago 2
how can i check if they did rebilt my motor
1389mexico 3 months ago
1 person is a ford fan
jknight1972 3 months ago 11
How much do they charge to machine
blackcaesar404 3 months ago
yo see no hole there. this one has a hole
michaelwitham 4 months ago
@DrMMHMD
Im not a genius... anyway you would oil up the entire engine... you would not oil the bottom of the friction bearings only the top in order not to spin a bearing. as regards the grease, you could pack the oil pump with grease or just some vasiline... primarily you would use oil for the engine components... Sorry i didnt get back to you earlier, ive been crazy busy sir.
QUESTI0NSnANSWERS 4 months ago
very informatory, thanks!!
TheRobotgeek123 5 months ago in playlist 350 engine build
@DrMMHMD
Their stronger! just an insurance policy.
fredtflail 5 months ago
@DrMMHMD WOW 1500 engines yet you still have time to hangout on you tube and bless us with your knowledge I'm impressed!!
beatnikgee 5 months ago
I like the way you work im 16 do it all thetime 57 year old man taught me how on rod bearings push in couldnt tell if you did or not
cstbbowerman 5 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Motor's are electric Engine's are fed by fuel
lolp151 5 months ago
Comment removed
lolp151 5 months ago
Should have used ARP bolt or stud on the main bearing caps.
fredtflail 5 months ago 2
Nice mustang at 9:08
motocrosslegend97 5 months ago
im new to this, i wanna rebuild my engine but, what does tang mean? can any1 tell me?
hikageninja1 6 months ago
HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO REBUILD A FORD I6?
JohnnyDesaint 6 months ago
How do they clean the block once its taken apart, what tools are needed?
Waizu91 6 months ago
@Waizu91 they took it to a machine shop. The shop can drop it in a hot tank which uses a special solution and high heat to remove grease and sludge or they can thermal clean it, which is done by cooking the engine at high heat to turn residue to ash and then blasting it with a superfine medium like steel sand or glass, I don't know what the common one is.
There's other ways too but those are the common methods
CALISUPERSPORT 5 months ago
First off PLEASE wash your hands! you shouln't touch the bearing surface with your bare hands the acids on your skin will damage the bearing material, not to mention all the dirt on your fingers. You should also completely wash the block, brush oil passages including the crankshaft New cranks are full of machining debris. All that crap will go straight into your nice new bearings.
beatnikgee 6 months ago 2
Why would you turn a 2-bolt main engine into a stroker? Seems like you'd want a 4.
bddc201 7 months ago
you should use protectors when installing your pistons in order to protect your crankshaft. Everything is measured to .001 of an inch so you really need to be careful. Use protecting sleaves.
QUESTI0NSnANSWERS 7 months ago
They need to wash the engine when it comes back with soapy water. and then grease and oil up the whole thing before putting it all back together.
QUESTI0NSnANSWERS 7 months ago
what about plastic gauge? is it not needed if you use the same crank?
corycmelvin 7 months ago
these videos are so relaxing i just can't stop watching them!
devizzlebg 8 months ago
you shouldve really checked bearing clearances and cleaned the oil passages in the crank before you put it in...
xoncide 9 months ago
you lost me with the inside-outside stuff with the tangs.
Why not try, ?? something else.
ratrace2p51 10 months ago
God that's beautiful
ratrace2p51 10 months ago
:D no video 2 this is the video 2 hahahahahaaahhaahahaha or part 2
akinorhan5 10 months ago
At the end of this video you guys said to go to part 4 at the end but the next video is part 3. The numbers are off by one thoughout the rest of this rebuild videos. Just letting you know. By the way thanks for this series of videos lot of help. Thank you.
jjpjesse1990 11 months ago
wouldnt you wan to clearance the block then send it to the machine shop.... you just put metal shavings in your oil passages....
denosmarine 11 months ago
i was watching box wrench DVD and what they do when they are instaling new bearings is put those bearing into the engine and run grinding stone , now the reason for that is the new bears when instaled into the engine there kinda slightly oval and they need to be perfectly circular then they put in the new crank,,,,,am i mentioning a good point
faisalabulaziz1 1 year ago
part 2 please
88888888888anonymous 1 year ago
So huge newb question... The crank is all that needs to be balanced? I'm getting ready to build a 383 I wanna get into auto service tech class and I figure I might as well try to learn ahead of time do you need longer connecting rods to add to that longer stroke? or can you keep the old?
flipbarracuda 1 year ago
You said on the rods the tang always points outward is this true for all 350's? I have a '71 350 I'm about to rebuild and i was wondering if the same rules apply.
TheCarGuy92 1 year ago
@TheCarGuy92 yes, on ALL chevy small blocks this rule Must be followed or you will have spun rod and crank bearings. Its quite hard to mess it up on the crank tho, because theres arrows on the tops of the main caps and if you put the main caps in with the arrows TOWARDS the front of the motor you will be fine......just god done building one check my channel.
8jhusk 1 year ago
this is n2 video,just a typo guys!
fabiochrist 1 year ago
you didn't use gloves when putting in the bearings or the crankshaft??? Most Pro. mechanics will tell you to use gloves when handling the crank and bearings. if you get grease, oils etc from your fingers on your crank, that can basically ruin your crank by means of a form of hydrolic pressure. They also didn't store there crank right, if you store a crank for any period of time you should hanging it or standing it on end. w/o support it will "creep" out of shape.
rocker4u123 1 year ago
yeah...... I love ur video
cadiwhite73 1 year ago
no 2 ????
HamadHHAG 1 year ago
make sure the chamfer on the rod is always toward the crank counterweights is why he says the tangs are on the outside
junior17817 1 year ago
In your rebuild you did not show checking clearance on the bearings. You must have a high level of confidence that machine shops do not make mistakes.
RobBob152002 1 year ago
best engine building series yet on youtube, many thanks for these great videos!
foxdmulder 1 year ago
thanks for the great video, the video shots and explaination of what your doing...alot of great information
31funk 1 year ago
everybody are asking for part 2. where is it? theres greats tips on each video and I wont to skip any
Leonardodavidrosas 1 year ago
@Leonardodavidrosas this is part 2
Dansz71sierra 1 year ago
Yeah no video 2?
Chris07860 1 year ago 6
NO VIDEO N.2
chikirris75 1 year ago
Mike, great tip about that galley oil plug. It wouldn't be a great day to have no oil on a brand new new engine, ha ha.
Say, 'engine assembly lube' is not sold at stores I go to. Would wheel bearing grease work just as well? That's sold everywhere.
How much does it cost to have the block and heads machined? If you disregard all installation labour, how much do you spend to rebuild your own engine with no modification?
You guys make this look so fun.
spelunkerd 1 year ago
"tang", that was a good video.
thanks
But where's 2 video?
dasfkid01 1 year ago 29
@dasfkid01 he prolly didnt feel like doing num 2 after all the bench racers and book readers started telling him everything he did was no good. Im not saying this guys building winning NASCAR engines or anything, but jeez some of the criticism is really uneccesary and unproductive.
12salem 3 weeks ago