@blanknot go back to 1:54 and start watching that section again. It's all about overlap. The metal flashing is providing plenty of overlap on the lower shingles and is being overlapped plenty by the shingles above it.
@AsktheBuilder but no matter what your probably not gonna have a leak but it is wrong...All shingle go over the flashing except, that go over the first exposed course..
@dekonfrost7 Well, I've got news for you. The flashing is just like a shingle. You have part of a shingle exposed each course, right? That's why you can do it my way with only 20 -30 percent of the flashing exposed and they'll NEVER be a leak. You need to pay attention to how things really are built.
Thanks for the vidual vid, bud. Great for the DIY weekend warriors. One note, just don't let that piece you cut with the recip saw fall into the attic, or the homeowner is likely to find a nice dent in their ceiling.
Is sealant only needed over the nail heads? I would think it wouldn't hurt to put some under the vent flashing where it lays over the shingles on the bottom half to prevent wind driven rain from being driven uphill to the vent hole. FYI - I do home improvements but never roof penetrations so this is a legitimate question that I'd appreciate feedback on.
should i follow how this guy did it or should i follow the manufacture's instructions? The manufacture instructions required roof cement and uses lot more nails than what you have. You can see the instructions at Broan.com and type in model# 636
This video helped me to successfully complete the installation of a bathroom fan on my house a few months ago. What a difference! This will come in handy when I install a range hood, as well. Anyone considering adding a bathroom fan can find information on selecting the appropriate CFM unit at Broan.com.
The worst roof leakage I have ever seen, had nothing to do with rain. In KS, the winds are just violent, mixed with the most insane weather. One morning we woke up and almost every house in the area had a stain in their cielings. It had snowed in rediculous winds all night, creating huge drifts on roofs, next morning it quickly rose to 65 degrees, while still windy, and pushed the drift snow into every vent where it melted and stained. EVEN OVER SOFFIT VENTS!!! Which means it came in and up
@d1incharge Ahhhhh! We get to the root of the problem. Glad we had this discussion. So, I'll ask you, *what* is the problem? That's a rhetorical question as I know what the issue is. The problem is a vent that allows snow to enter the house. Are there snow-proof pot, soffit, ridge vents? Well, there are some that claim to be so.
Now you need a manufacturer to prove to you that they really have a vent that will not allow snow to enter. Thanks for your respectful discussion.
I too appreciate the respectul discussion. I completely understand doing everything "by the book" on how to videos. It would really be a liability not to. But it wouldnt hurt to mention what climate zone you are in, what wind does to play a factor in windy climates, and in extremely cold and dry climate, would you even want that moisture escaping? Just to run a humidifier longer? Naaaaah. You go high up into the rockies, you take whatever moisture you can get, and drink plenty of water.
The good builders I know refuse to run the vent to either soffits, or specialty roof vents. It is always very easy to run them up next to an existin roof vent. This way, wind won't create pressure differences, and moisture still goes out of the attic. Not only are you creating one more place for a roof leak, you are promising that on a windy day you will hear the little flapper in your bathroom, flip flap, flip flap, knowing your warm air is being literally sucked out by the wind.
@d1incharge Thanks for your comment, but I respectfully disagree. The piping of the moist air must be continuous to the exterior. You can't *hope* the air all makes it out a nearby pot vent. And with a high-quality fan, you don't hear the flapper. And as for leaks, are you serious? Installed the way I show and you'll never have a leak. That vent has withstood fierce wind-drivin rain countless times.
@AsktheBuilder Yeah, but you are not looking at it from a builders point of veiw. Builders are usually not installing roof vents, a roofer is, and for every penetraion comes a risk. If you "hope" pot vents work, something is wrong. They work, otherwise they wouldn't be installed. therefore, there is no hope involved. Stack effect does not go away. Why spend more on a bathroom vent, and the roof vent, and installation, when their is a cheaper solution, that has been proven to work?
@d1incharge I'm stunned. The only risk you have with a penetration if you use a *loser* roofer. I've cut *thousands* of penetrations in my career. Never has there been a leak.
Did you take high school Physics? Hot air does what? It rises. It doesn't go down. You put a vent pipe from a fan near or next to a pot vent and the hot air will *rise*. Some or all of the air will float past the vent and coat the roof sheathing.
All you have to go is go up in an attic on a cold day and test your theory
@AsktheBuilder Welcome to the midwest, good roofers are EXTREMELY hard to find. You just wait until the illegal population hits the north east!!! Actually, in our climate, I have seen dryer vents/bathroom vents/stove vents ALL run inside of the attic, with no mold or moisture issues to be seen. This just tells me the attic is vented properly. When you have a greater than 1/1 ACH in your attic, you have nothing to worry about, the air will mix, and release. You can't defy attic ACH.
@d1incharge I built in the Midwest for over 20 years. :->>>> You want to find the best roofer in your area? I can do it in less than two hours. For you to do it, all you need is my Roofing Checklist. Go to my AsktheBuilder website and click the SHOP button. You'll see the Checklists. Each contains four secret videos that show you exactly what I would do if I was in *your* town and had to find the BEST contractor for any job. Guaranteed to work. Try one and see.
@AsktheBuilder We build over 25 a year, not only do I not have the time to do the roofing, in a fairly small town "salina" ks., trust me, we know every roofer w/in an hour, they all suck. You just have to pick the one that sucks the least and doesn't try to charge an arm and a leg. But, you can't compete as a roofer here when 99% of your competition is paying 8$/hour to illegals that will roof in any weather to feed their starving illegal families, and their chrome wheels/rear window decals.
@AsktheBuilder That is why you run it directly under the pot vent or as KS calls them "turtlebacks". By the by, I recommend you wear flannel in all of your videos, just cause :) One plus about the cold days, cold air doen't hold jack for moisture, so whatever goes into your attic on a cold day, will typically be dry in no time, even condensation.
@d1incharge I have to respectfully disagree. I can show you hundreds of roofs, as can thousands of ASHI inspectors, that are BLACK with mold from condensation that's been allowed to form on the underside of cold roofs.
I can't continue this debate with you. I have hundreds of other videos to clear comments on, checklists to write, other videos to do.
Thanks very much for the help! Gave me the confidence I needed to go out there and get the job done right. I was a little conservative, and went with a bead of roofing cement/sealant around the actual hole, as well as to hold the top lap of shingles (not as big a margin as your site) and the bottom half of the flashing instead of nails
I have two bathrooms that are basically next to each other. One has an exhaust, the other does not. When installing the new exhaust fan, can I just "T" into the existing vent that is vented outside of the house or will I need to have two seperate vents??
@bladder1010 You're most welcome. You can return the favor by telling as many people as you know about them and all the columns at my AsktheBuilder website.
1) Instead of nailing the bottom part and using caulk to seal them, "steel roof" screws could be used. These screws come with a rubber washer and will never leak.
2) I would also put a small patch (size of a quarter) of tar over the top nails to seal them and also to hold the shingles in case of high wind.
My contractor is hesitant to vent ours out the roof because it doesn't have much slope. he just vented to the attic which I've read is a no-no. My feeling is that if he knows what he's doing he can vent through the roof without leaks even if the slope is small. What do you think? thanks
You need to go to a commercial building that has upper stories that look down on lower roofs. You'll see all sorts of vents popping up through flat roofs. Bottom line: Of course you can install it on a low-slope roof. In that case, I'd incorporate the ice and water membranes that flash it to the felt paper so that wind-blown rain can't enter under the shingles.
@glxie63 a bath vent should NEVER be vented into the attic. NEVER. you can vent it over to the soffit with proper slope. but, you can vent it STRAIGHT up with rigid metal duct. you have to insulate the ducting however to prevent condensation (which ends up back in the bathroom). You dont want a lot of length and bends in your ducting. if you're going up, you dont want to use the flexible ducting. I learned this from TIM himself (ask the builder) he knows his stuff. hope it was helpful
Great video Tim. I just wanted to know if this would be to code in Prince George, British Columbia, or is this pretty much standard practice on all homes? Looking forward to trying it out!
I don't comment on code issues. They are different in all areas, and even when using the UCC, the local inspectors can override sections. You ask your local inspectors.
Great Video. I'm going to be installing a vent during the spring. My dad wants to vent it through the soffits because hes worried about the roof leaking. Since I'm installing it, I find it easier and more efficient to go through the roof. Is there any advantage/disadvantage venting through the soffits? Should if I do vent it through the roof should I apply some tar to seal between the top of the vent and the shingles?
Soffits are bad juju. The moist air can roll under the soffit and re-enter the attic through soffit vents. You can seal the shingles to the flashing with a roofing cement if you like. No need for it if you do it the way I show. Mine have never leaked, and I've installed hundreds of them.
Yet another wonderful and very helpful video. Thanks, Tim! One question--it looks like you know how to cut through the roof with a reciprocating saw without first drilling a starter hole. What's the trick? I can't do it without the starter hole.
Again, thanks for ALL your highly informative videos--I've learned so much from you!
I'm pretty certain in this video I did have a pilot hole. But it's been so long since I taped it, I forgot! To cut without one, hold the recip saw at a low angle to the surface. The blade might be at a 15-degree angle. Turn on the saw and slowly pivot the saw up at a steeper angle as the blade chews into the wood. Do this slowly until the blade penetrates the wood.
No. Would you rather spend $10 in heat loss each year or spend thousands to replace the rotted wood in your attic from NOT venting it to the exterior?
I am preparing to vent a bathroom fan through the roof and just purchased the fan, roof vent and insulated duct work. The roof vent came with a galvanized attachment that slides into the bottom of the roof vent. It attaches to the vent by bending some precut metal ears around the perimeter of the vent hole. It looks very similar to the one you installed on this video. However, it is not air tight and looks like it would rattle with the airflow? Does it make noise? Should I run a bead of caulk?
Sorry, I learned that the attachment I am referring to is actually called a starter collar and it attaches to the roof and not the roof vent itself. It makes much more sense now!
Technically not a day-to-day roofer. But I've installed more than I care to remember, and have done all the flashings, soldering, tinned box gutters, etc. I always found it fascinating to see how roofing worked to make a house watertight. That interest is what tends to make a person good at something. You then treat it as a vocation instead of a job.
No sealant. It's tough to do on a remodel like this without taking out the shingles completely. I have three of these identical flashings on the roof and no leaks in the worst wind-driven rains. The pitch is 9:12. If it was a new roof, I would not hesitate to use sealant as an additional safeguard.
How are those flat metal ducts for rain and hail noise? Ones I've seen I've had to run two ribbons of caulk down them to dampen the noise, on ones that are flat to the sky I put two ribbons in an X pattern from the center - dampens the ding ding drumming sound of rain and hail hitting them. That's why a lot of people use vinyl (besides the cheaper price) but they find out 5 to 8 yrs later the vinyl is cracked warped and leaking - so much for saving money. I paint the units to match the roof too
Not dumb at all. The answer is usually. One would hope there is an attic access panel or even a door and steps to the attic. Not all houses have this as some ceiling joist are also the roof joists.
thanks for the video, this will be a great help, cause the guys who, did ours, definitely didn't know what they were doing or just didn't care,. thanks a lot..
thx for the video, it really helped me. i put 3" ABS exhaust through the roof, but method was the same.
i like how you explain HOW the system works so if your project is somewhat different you can use your knowledge of HOW it is supposed to work to tailor properly to your own situation. all the best 2009!
Thanks for the video. Unfortunately, I have a flat ceramic tile roof with thick ceramic tiles that seem to simply rest on top of each other. Do I use the same type of vent and flashing? If so, is this something that I can still do as a DIY type? Can I just cut through it with a rotozip? Like the other guy said, cutting the hole in my roof will require me to muster up a bit of courage, but I could get over that if weren't for the tiles.
It's the same methodology. But because of the larger overlap of the ceramic tiles, you *may* need an oversized flashing. You could save yourself huge misery by hiring this out to a real roofing pro. A mistake on this roof can cost you dearly.
Thanks. Is there any compelling reason not to make hole in the siding in the attic and use some sort of vent similar to a dryer vent? The area isn't really visible to anybody. And I haven't had much luck finding good roofers in the past, although perhaps this is a simple job for them. The siding is stucco, so I'm not real excited about cutting that, but I suspect I could do it just fine.
@AsktheBuilder I also would like to vent thru the outside of a exterior wall which has wood siding,how would you approach this ? do you have a video ? Thanks for the info .
Informative. Thanks! Any experience w. metal roofs? We need to replace a duct vent that vents straight up from 1st floor dryer up through 3rd floor utility closet to metal (sloped) roof. Somewhere along the length, its become disconnected and does not vent properly. We'd like to use existing roof vent cap. Is it pretty straighfwd to remove vent so we can pull out old duct and slide in new one? Concerned about keeping metal roof integrity as it was just scraped and resealed this summer. thanx!
but is it easy enough to take cap off and then replace? we don't have to cut a new hole as there is already one there. thanks much. p.s. we are doing this today, so hope to see a response! :)
i'd like to see this professional man installing those things either on slate roofs or cedar shakes, LoL. Another thing, in the video he missed some important details as using caulking on the top part of the flashing. In winter time, it might leak, guess why?, well, snow accumulate on the top part of the pipe, later ice damns start growing under shingles, the purpose of the caulking is to stop those damns. he used caulking on exposed nails only!!, no good.
Thanks for your comment. This flashing doesn't leak. It's been in for several years through driving rain and deep snow. I went to your channel and there's nothing there. If you are an expert roofer, how about sharing your knowledge with videos? Show us your methods. The method for installing the flashing in slate or wood shakes is the same. If you disagree, then tape your own video showing us how you do it.
I agree with you, the flashing is working properly and it is not leaking because the pitch of the roof lets the water go fast and the snow does not stand as on a low slope roof. i've done roofing half of my life and what i wrote is based on my experience, sometimes sealant might not be necessary but doing so give peace of mind. Instead of caulking, there a large variety of products, i use ice-guard around every pipe, chimney, flashings, i.e. Unfortunately i've never loaded videos or pictures.
You sure are confusing me. Your first comment states that I did the job wrong - and that you have a different method. Uploading a video to YouTube is easier than installing one asphalt shingle. Since you have a lifetime of roofing experience, you should share it. Are you going to take your knowledge to the grave with you? That's unacceptable in today's world. Surely you can take the time to do it if I done it. It's our obligation.
It's more than just "my idea". It is taught in journeyman school, it's on their tests, and if you're a roofer by trade, you would never dare do a roof without gumming the valleys, chimneys, vents, and so on. Similar to vinyl siding - you would never do a job without papering it all first.
Especially on lower slopes, water creeps under shingles and vents. A gum bead pushes it back out. That's all I can say.
I'm all for agreeing there is more than one way to do a task. However, roofing gum is a must in areas vents, chimneys, valleys, etc. Skipping this step is not a smart thing to do. It's cheap and lazy.
There are hundreds of thousands of roofs out there that have all of those things and *no* gum that are leak-free. I am not saying your idea is bad. I am trying to get you to have an open mind about the facts. If I have no gum and no leaks, then why must I do it? Don't answer that you think it is a good idea. Answer with some hard science.
How much time? More than 25 or 30 years? I have many vent flashings like that installed on my roof, and they have been there since day one. No leaks. I suggest that you consider there is more than one right way to do something. Keep in mind that regular shingles in the field do not leak, and each tab is not sealed as you suggest.
There is a very significant step you missed Tim. Blackjack or "roofing gum" MUST be applied, every single time. If you miss this step, your vent WILL leak 100% guaranteed.
You must apply a bead of "gum" underneat the vent, and on top where the upper shingles rest on it.
Because of this vital step that was missed, I can't give this tutorial more than a 50% for usefulness. Sorry.
Gosh, I have bad news for you. You are wrong. You are welcome to come here to view the vent and the ceiling below. In fact, there are no less than 10 similar flashings exactly like that on my roof. No blackjack and not a drop of a leak, even in the most fierce wind/rain storm.
Hey this is great, I need to install one of these, the moron that I had install the bathroom fan just has the hose pointing towards the soffits, now I see dark spots on the wood!! Now I just need to grow the cojones to go up there and cut a 6" hole in my roof!!
Thanks and I'll be coming here for more instruction!!
just a lil tip you should put the next row of shingles over the vent as well... stop any leaks... time over time i have had to repair leaky vents done this why..
Great work! And a sincere "Thank You" for the how to videos.
Another way could be to cut the hole, then insert the flashing, never cutting a single shingle (hey, that rymes.) Then simply use Karnak #19 Ultra flashing cement (or any quality brand) underneath the flashing (about a 1/3" layer.) Use (galvanized) screws (2 on each flange, 1/2' from the working surface) to secure. Then (NEATLY! ) cover the exposed flange with flashing cement making sure to overlap the shingles by 2- 3 inches.
This method, in my opinion, is the absolute worst way to install a flashing. Why hope the cement seal works for years when you absolutely can count on Gravity?
I have to agree with Tim - those flashing cements are goo for about 2 yrs then Noah's flood comes. One thing you might mention Tim is to have the vent always above the fan and no drops in the hose or you get condensation that gets nasty, sometimes ices up. Can even become enough that it will get into the fan or ceiling.
I usually use Blackjack under the flashing before laying the shingles back and a spot to replace the old tar strip so the shingles dont blow up if the shingles dont re-adhere.
I would have put that third row over the metal . any time you have a full exposure of a row it is to go on top of the flange wether it be a b- vent, air vent, plumbing stack, sky light,chimney(step flashing)think about driving rain blowing in the side were your hole is cut. then you could nail the side of the flashing down and have your shingle cover the nail. In B.C. where we see lots of rain.ive had to fix afew flashings that were installed that way. 23 yrs in this trade.
I would have to agree with the other roofers. I have seen this type of installation leak. I would definately install one more shingle over the top of the shingle. I would also install roof cement (black jack) under the flashing and on top of the flashing under the shingles.
You know, it just doesn't add up sometimes, does it? I watch your videos, I learn a lot from them, I enjoy your helpful advice, insights, and sense of humor, too. I think "Thank God for this video - just in time to help me get that job done". Meanwhile, I read the comments - often ugly! Yikes! What are those guys thinking?
Thanks again, Tim, - your work is much appreciated!
Many of those comments come from faceless, jealous haters. These are people for whom these famous sayings were talking about:
Actions speak louder than words.
Put up or shut up.
Just Do it.
YouTube dialog is video. Those people who think they have a better method should make videos of their own and let people like you decide who offers the best solution.
look at page 304 in filed guide put out by gaf it has to do with roof projections for other ideas.like to use book as a guied also will adjust methods with what ive learned with own experences on since 1981. for example in some cases i will use ice shield under & over dripedge instead of just over drip edge in high probabilty ice dame areas never mentoned in book to keep ice from backing under dripege at gutter line where if installed only on top drip wood under drip will be vonerable to ice
rule of thumb when you lie flange on roof, bottom of flange should cover the bottom exopsed shinge by 2 inhes over exposed area and the rest of shingles should cover the flange on the sides and rear of flange leaving very bottom of flange exposed what do you think about my suggestion on nail placment at bottom of flange.
i agree flashings do work as field shingles. they only have exposer of 5 inches or more depending on style but the butt joint in the course below seats 4-6 inches away from any opening depending on shingle. leaving to much of flange uncovered is leaving an opening to buck water which is always covered when lieing shingles. usally your method is oka but i have seen problems resulting in directional rains and winter mounths
black jack should be used to adhear the shingls to the flange to keep them from lifting in time as there is adhesive on the shingles to do the same when you lie shingles on metal there is nothing adhering them. manufature even recomends flashing cement to be used on drip edge for same reason in high winds and cold teratories. also gravity will not work in ice dame conditions.
good video as a master eleite gaf contractor the only thin i suggest is that 1 more row go over the flange so 2 go under the flange and the rest around it keep the exp. nail in front of the flange not at cornors h2o at nail will be at min use blackjack under laping shingle of the flange to seal shingles to flange to keep ice snow and wind from lifting shingles at flange. you always have some great ideas just thought i would give you a roofers opionion
Thanks! What many people forget about flashings is they work just like field shingles. Think how regular shingles have no black jack under them. It is solely gravity keeping you dry. Remember too that nearly 42 percent of every average shingle is exposed. So leaving that much flashing exposed is no different than a shingle. :-)
dekonfrost7 I hate to disagree and agree at the same time as I thought you were right but I looked at my GAF spec book (2006) and on page 112 it shows the installation for a SSB960 slant back Master Flow vent installed as he did it. He did face nail and caulk the heads which NOBODY does which should be done, but he did it by a manufactures book.
you had a flat bar there why didn't you ruffle up the shingles left and right. they are supposed to overlaft the flashing on a static/slant vent...only an inch or so is supposed to overlap the bottom shingle depending on where the hole is...shingles overlap flashing not the other way round...
I have to respectfully disagree, and wonder if you really watched the entire video. For one, there are no leaks, and I know of thousands and thousands of vent flashings installed this way that do not leak. Furthermore, look at regular shingles. A twelve-inch-high shingle has five inches of exposure. That is 41% exposure! And field shingles installed this way on the right slope do not leak.
I'm going to install a powered attic vent tomorrow where an existing static vent is located. I bought a tube of Black Jack Neoprene flash cement. Do I need to apply this on the roof where the flashing is to sit or just on the nail head surfaces
No need for that product. Watch the video again. I used no caulk or roofing cement as part of the flashing process. I *did* put a small dab of caulk on the visible nail heads on the exposed base of the flashing. Nails in that location keep the flashing from blowing/bending up in vicious windstorms.
I am a carpenter and I enjoy it very much. Many times I work alone on side job, so I am always on the lookout for new and easy ways of getting the job done effectively. Yes God-willing you will keep making more Videos because they mean a whole lot to this Journeywoman. Keep up the GREAT work!
And you shall see *many* more in-depth videos. Rest assured of that. :-> Thanks for your kind words. It means very much coming from a peer who knows the challenges of doing work in all sorts of different situations.
I'm a re-modeler, and I know most of your videos are aimed at the beginner or do-it-yourselfer, but even I learned a thing or two after watching this. I really enjoy your more in-depth how-to videos like this one. Thanks!
Why not insert the flashing under all the shingles?
blanknot 3 months ago
@blanknot go back to 1:54 and start watching that section again. It's all about overlap. The metal flashing is providing plenty of overlap on the lower shingles and is being overlapped plenty by the shingles above it.
AsktheBuilder 3 months ago
@AsktheBuilder but no matter what your probably not gonna have a leak but it is wrong...All shingle go over the flashing except, that go over the first exposed course..
dekonfrost7 2 months ago
@dekonfrost7 Well, I've got news for you. The flashing is just like a shingle. You have part of a shingle exposed each course, right? That's why you can do it my way with only 20 -30 percent of the flashing exposed and they'll NEVER be a leak. You need to pay attention to how things really are built.
AsktheBuilder 3 weeks ago
Thanks for the vidual vid, bud. Great for the DIY weekend warriors. One note, just don't let that piece you cut with the recip saw fall into the attic, or the homeowner is likely to find a nice dent in their ceiling.
BreakfastBentoBox 10 months ago
Is sealant only needed over the nail heads? I would think it wouldn't hurt to put some under the vent flashing where it lays over the shingles on the bottom half to prevent wind driven rain from being driven uphill to the vent hole. FYI - I do home improvements but never roof penetrations so this is a legitimate question that I'd appreciate feedback on.
amigo1080 11 months ago
@amigo1080 Under is preferred, amigo. I agree. Then put some on top to finish the job right.
BreakfastBentoBox 10 months ago
should i follow how this guy did it or should i follow the manufacture's instructions? The manufacture instructions required roof cement and uses lot more nails than what you have. You can see the instructions at Broan.com and type in model# 636
Tobe523 11 months ago
This video helped me to successfully complete the installation of a bathroom fan on my house a few months ago. What a difference! This will come in handy when I install a range hood, as well. Anyone considering adding a bathroom fan can find information on selecting the appropriate CFM unit at Broan.com.
Thanks for posting this excellent video, Tim.
bladder1010 1 year ago
The worst roof leakage I have ever seen, had nothing to do with rain. In KS, the winds are just violent, mixed with the most insane weather. One morning we woke up and almost every house in the area had a stain in their cielings. It had snowed in rediculous winds all night, creating huge drifts on roofs, next morning it quickly rose to 65 degrees, while still windy, and pushed the drift snow into every vent where it melted and stained. EVEN OVER SOFFIT VENTS!!! Which means it came in and up
d1incharge 1 year ago
@d1incharge Ahhhhh! We get to the root of the problem. Glad we had this discussion. So, I'll ask you, *what* is the problem? That's a rhetorical question as I know what the issue is. The problem is a vent that allows snow to enter the house. Are there snow-proof pot, soffit, ridge vents? Well, there are some that claim to be so.
Now you need a manufacturer to prove to you that they really have a vent that will not allow snow to enter. Thanks for your respectful discussion.
AsktheBuilder 1 year ago
I too appreciate the respectul discussion. I completely understand doing everything "by the book" on how to videos. It would really be a liability not to. But it wouldnt hurt to mention what climate zone you are in, what wind does to play a factor in windy climates, and in extremely cold and dry climate, would you even want that moisture escaping? Just to run a humidifier longer? Naaaaah. You go high up into the rockies, you take whatever moisture you can get, and drink plenty of water.
d1incharge 1 year ago
The good builders I know refuse to run the vent to either soffits, or specialty roof vents. It is always very easy to run them up next to an existin roof vent. This way, wind won't create pressure differences, and moisture still goes out of the attic. Not only are you creating one more place for a roof leak, you are promising that on a windy day you will hear the little flapper in your bathroom, flip flap, flip flap, knowing your warm air is being literally sucked out by the wind.
d1incharge 1 year ago
@d1incharge Thanks for your comment, but I respectfully disagree. The piping of the moist air must be continuous to the exterior. You can't *hope* the air all makes it out a nearby pot vent. And with a high-quality fan, you don't hear the flapper. And as for leaks, are you serious? Installed the way I show and you'll never have a leak. That vent has withstood fierce wind-drivin rain countless times.
AsktheBuilder 1 year ago
@AsktheBuilder Yeah, but you are not looking at it from a builders point of veiw. Builders are usually not installing roof vents, a roofer is, and for every penetraion comes a risk. If you "hope" pot vents work, something is wrong. They work, otherwise they wouldn't be installed. therefore, there is no hope involved. Stack effect does not go away. Why spend more on a bathroom vent, and the roof vent, and installation, when their is a cheaper solution, that has been proven to work?
d1incharge 1 year ago
@d1incharge I'm stunned. The only risk you have with a penetration if you use a *loser* roofer. I've cut *thousands* of penetrations in my career. Never has there been a leak.
Did you take high school Physics? Hot air does what? It rises. It doesn't go down. You put a vent pipe from a fan near or next to a pot vent and the hot air will *rise*. Some or all of the air will float past the vent and coat the roof sheathing.
All you have to go is go up in an attic on a cold day and test your theory
AsktheBuilder 1 year ago
@AsktheBuilder Welcome to the midwest, good roofers are EXTREMELY hard to find. You just wait until the illegal population hits the north east!!! Actually, in our climate, I have seen dryer vents/bathroom vents/stove vents ALL run inside of the attic, with no mold or moisture issues to be seen. This just tells me the attic is vented properly. When you have a greater than 1/1 ACH in your attic, you have nothing to worry about, the air will mix, and release. You can't defy attic ACH.
d1incharge 1 year ago
@d1incharge I built in the Midwest for over 20 years. :->>>> You want to find the best roofer in your area? I can do it in less than two hours. For you to do it, all you need is my Roofing Checklist. Go to my AsktheBuilder website and click the SHOP button. You'll see the Checklists. Each contains four secret videos that show you exactly what I would do if I was in *your* town and had to find the BEST contractor for any job. Guaranteed to work. Try one and see.
AsktheBuilder 1 year ago
@AsktheBuilder We build over 25 a year, not only do I not have the time to do the roofing, in a fairly small town "salina" ks., trust me, we know every roofer w/in an hour, they all suck. You just have to pick the one that sucks the least and doesn't try to charge an arm and a leg. But, you can't compete as a roofer here when 99% of your competition is paying 8$/hour to illegals that will roof in any weather to feed their starving illegal families, and their chrome wheels/rear window decals.
d1incharge 1 year ago
@AsktheBuilder That is why you run it directly under the pot vent or as KS calls them "turtlebacks". By the by, I recommend you wear flannel in all of your videos, just cause :) One plus about the cold days, cold air doen't hold jack for moisture, so whatever goes into your attic on a cold day, will typically be dry in no time, even condensation.
d1incharge 1 year ago
@d1incharge I have to respectfully disagree. I can show you hundreds of roofs, as can thousands of ASHI inspectors, that are BLACK with mold from condensation that's been allowed to form on the underside of cold roofs.
I can't continue this debate with you. I have hundreds of other videos to clear comments on, checklists to write, other videos to do.
AsktheBuilder 1 year ago
Thanks very much for the help! Gave me the confidence I needed to go out there and get the job done right. I was a little conservative, and went with a bead of roofing cement/sealant around the actual hole, as well as to hold the top lap of shingles (not as big a margin as your site) and the bottom half of the flashing instead of nails
marcvsromanvs 1 year ago
This guy is awesome I wish I had half the skill he does
pashastookie 1 year ago
@pashastookie Thanks. I wear a superhero costume under that blue shirt. :->>>>
AsktheBuilder 1 year ago
@AsktheBuilder lol. Please keep these videos coming, I love all of them
pashastookie 1 year ago
Great Vids Mr. Ask The Builder. I'll check with you for more project advise.
niton222 1 year ago
How do you put vent pipe in a tar/gravel roof ? This video is for a shingle roof install.
chunge12 1 year ago
@chunge12 You call in a professional. Use my Roofing Checklist at my AsktheBuilder website to help you DISCOVER the professional in your area.
AsktheBuilder 1 year ago
Thank you so much Mr. Carter. Your knowledge has helped me with so many projects.
capoeiraike 1 year ago
I have two bathrooms that are basically next to each other. One has an exhaust, the other does not. When installing the new exhaust fan, can I just "T" into the existing vent that is vented outside of the house or will I need to have two seperate vents??
kenmistall 1 year ago
nice vid, found my exhaust fan was exiting to the attic, guna need to install one of these. Thanks for explaining everything in detail.
mattretzl 1 year ago
This is EXACTLY what I needed to know. Your videos are the best. Thanks Mr. Carter!
bladder1010 1 year ago
@bladder1010 You're most welcome. You can return the favor by telling as many people as you know about them and all the columns at my AsktheBuilder website.
AsktheBuilder 1 year ago
Where do you order that flashing from?
Emfuser 1 year ago
1) Instead of nailing the bottom part and using caulk to seal them, "steel roof" screws could be used. These screws come with a rubber washer and will never leak.
2) I would also put a small patch (size of a quarter) of tar over the top nails to seal them and also to hold the shingles in case of high wind.
h2000l 1 year ago
My contractor is hesitant to vent ours out the roof because it doesn't have much slope. he just vented to the attic which I've read is a no-no. My feeling is that if he knows what he's doing he can vent through the roof without leaks even if the slope is small. What do you think? thanks
glxie63 1 year ago
You need to go to a commercial building that has upper stories that look down on lower roofs. You'll see all sorts of vents popping up through flat roofs. Bottom line: Of course you can install it on a low-slope roof. In that case, I'd incorporate the ice and water membranes that flash it to the felt paper so that wind-blown rain can't enter under the shingles.
AsktheBuilder 1 year ago
@glxie63 a bath vent should NEVER be vented into the attic. NEVER. you can vent it over to the soffit with proper slope. but, you can vent it STRAIGHT up with rigid metal duct. you have to insulate the ducting however to prevent condensation (which ends up back in the bathroom). You dont want a lot of length and bends in your ducting. if you're going up, you dont want to use the flexible ducting. I learned this from TIM himself (ask the builder) he knows his stuff. hope it was helpful
mwswewawfw1 1 year ago
Thanks this vid is very helpfull.I need to install a roof flashing for my bathroom exhaust also.
203809ct 2 years ago
Thanks.
I'm subscribing.
TheDoyleClan 2 years ago
Great video Tim. I just wanted to know if this would be to code in Prince George, British Columbia, or is this pretty much standard practice on all homes? Looking forward to trying it out!
iloveutube70 2 years ago
I don't comment on code issues. They are different in all areas, and even when using the UCC, the local inspectors can override sections. You ask your local inspectors.
AsktheBuilder 2 years ago
Great Video. I'm going to be installing a vent during the spring. My dad wants to vent it through the soffits because hes worried about the roof leaking. Since I'm installing it, I find it easier and more efficient to go through the roof. Is there any advantage/disadvantage venting through the soffits? Should if I do vent it through the roof should I apply some tar to seal between the top of the vent and the shingles?
Hossified 2 years ago
Soffits are bad juju. The moist air can roll under the soffit and re-enter the attic through soffit vents. You can seal the shingles to the flashing with a roofing cement if you like. No need for it if you do it the way I show. Mine have never leaked, and I've installed hundreds of them.
AsktheBuilder 2 years ago
Yet another wonderful and very helpful video. Thanks, Tim! One question--it looks like you know how to cut through the roof with a reciprocating saw without first drilling a starter hole. What's the trick? I can't do it without the starter hole.
Again, thanks for ALL your highly informative videos--I've learned so much from you!
cetm2000 2 years ago
I'm pretty certain in this video I did have a pilot hole. But it's been so long since I taped it, I forgot! To cut without one, hold the recip saw at a low angle to the surface. The blade might be at a 15-degree angle. Turn on the saw and slowly pivot the saw up at a steeper angle as the blade chews into the wood. Do this slowly until the blade penetrates the wood.
AsktheBuilder 2 years ago
Thank you very much, Tim! I tried it today and it worked great--appreciate the tip!
cetm2000 2 years ago
When u install these vents, don't u set yourself up for significant heat loss thru the venting? I live in the northeast.
mf18nh 2 years ago
No. Would you rather spend $10 in heat loss each year or spend thousands to replace the rotted wood in your attic from NOT venting it to the exterior?
AsktheBuilder 2 years ago
This is a great video and very helpful. I do however have a tile roof. How do I deal with installing it on a tile roof? thanks!
bernzpeed 2 years ago
Same exact procedure, but you need to use a flashing made out of lead that bends to the shape of the tile.
AsktheBuilder 2 years ago
I am preparing to vent a bathroom fan through the roof and just purchased the fan, roof vent and insulated duct work. The roof vent came with a galvanized attachment that slides into the bottom of the roof vent. It attaches to the vent by bending some precut metal ears around the perimeter of the vent hole. It looks very similar to the one you installed on this video. However, it is not air tight and looks like it would rattle with the airflow? Does it make noise? Should I run a bead of caulk?
0466rymaspencer 2 years ago
Sorry, I learned that the attachment I am referring to is actually called a starter collar and it attaches to the roof and not the roof vent itself. It makes much more sense now!
0466rymaspencer 2 years ago
omg you a roofer?? have no clue...i roof also thanks for your videos are really good!
miltech29 2 years ago
Technically not a day-to-day roofer. But I've installed more than I care to remember, and have done all the flashings, soldering, tinned box gutters, etc. I always found it fascinating to see how roofing worked to make a house watertight. That interest is what tends to make a person good at something. You then treat it as a vocation instead of a job.
AsktheBuilder 2 years ago
If you have multiple shingle layers on your roof. Do you need to but the flashing under all of them or just the top most layer?
casicilian 2 years ago
Only under the top layer!
AsktheBuilder 2 years ago
Question? Did you apply sealant to the flashing perimeter to keep the rain out or is the roof steep enough that you don't need any sealant?
brokenarrow2222 2 years ago
No sealant. It's tough to do on a remodel like this without taking out the shingles completely. I have three of these identical flashings on the roof and no leaks in the worst wind-driven rains. The pitch is 9:12. If it was a new roof, I would not hesitate to use sealant as an additional safeguard.
AsktheBuilder 2 years ago
Thanks
brokenarrow2222 2 years ago
How are those flat metal ducts for rain and hail noise? Ones I've seen I've had to run two ribbons of caulk down them to dampen the noise, on ones that are flat to the sky I put two ribbons in an X pattern from the center - dampens the ding ding drumming sound of rain and hail hitting them. That's why a lot of people use vinyl (besides the cheaper price) but they find out 5 to 8 yrs later the vinyl is cracked warped and leaking - so much for saving money. I paint the units to match the roof too
rhblakeman 2 years ago
Just learn to fall right and you'll be little sore but not DEAD
mehrizi78 2 years ago
hey builder guy, i hope you covered the top of the exhaust fan before you cut the hole in the roof.
olafbigandglad 2 years ago
Sure did. Who wants sawdust and granules in the fan?
AsktheBuilder 2 years ago
dumb question?can one get in between the top roof and the roof on the inside of the house in all houses?>and from where?no knowledge on houses
cagonesss 2 years ago
Not dumb at all. The answer is usually. One would hope there is an attic access panel or even a door and steps to the attic. Not all houses have this as some ceiling joist are also the roof joists.
AsktheBuilder 2 years ago
great video!!!
davidrazorback 2 years ago
we don't have a kind of roof like that, in my country!!! but nice video
kino261988 2 years ago
thanks for the video, this will be a great help, cause the guys who, did ours, definitely didn't know what they were doing or just didn't care,. thanks a lot..
BanglaMAn 2 years ago
thx for the video, it really helped me. i put 3" ABS exhaust through the roof, but method was the same.
i like how you explain HOW the system works so if your project is somewhat different you can use your knowledge of HOW it is supposed to work to tailor properly to your own situation. all the best 2009!
Knucklez2bsure 3 years ago
Thanks for the video. Unfortunately, I have a flat ceramic tile roof with thick ceramic tiles that seem to simply rest on top of each other. Do I use the same type of vent and flashing? If so, is this something that I can still do as a DIY type? Can I just cut through it with a rotozip? Like the other guy said, cutting the hole in my roof will require me to muster up a bit of courage, but I could get over that if weren't for the tiles.
Stallion6365 3 years ago
It's the same methodology. But because of the larger overlap of the ceramic tiles, you *may* need an oversized flashing. You could save yourself huge misery by hiring this out to a real roofing pro. A mistake on this roof can cost you dearly.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
Thanks. Is there any compelling reason not to make hole in the siding in the attic and use some sort of vent similar to a dryer vent? The area isn't really visible to anybody. And I haven't had much luck finding good roofers in the past, although perhaps this is a simple job for them. The siding is stucco, so I'm not real excited about cutting that, but I suspect I could do it just fine.
Thanks, again.
Stallion6365 3 years ago
You can go out a side wall. That's a valid option indeed!
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
Thanks. You are a gentleman and a scholar!
Stallion6365 3 years ago
@AsktheBuilder I also would like to vent thru the outside of a exterior wall which has wood siding,how would you approach this ? do you have a video ? Thanks for the info .
edadmartin 1 year ago
Very good idea
stash1962 3 years ago
I would say yes basicly
stash1962 3 years ago
Informative. Thanks! Any experience w. metal roofs? We need to replace a duct vent that vents straight up from 1st floor dryer up through 3rd floor utility closet to metal (sloped) roof. Somewhere along the length, its become disconnected and does not vent properly. We'd like to use existing roof vent cap. Is it pretty straighfwd to remove vent so we can pull out old duct and slide in new one? Concerned about keeping metal roof integrity as it was just scraped and resealed this summer. thanx!
vamarianne 3 years ago
Same technique. Make the slit in the metal roof half way up the flashing. The slit in the roof is exactly the same width as the flashing.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
but is it easy enough to take cap off and then replace? we don't have to cut a new hole as there is already one there. thanks much. p.s. we are doing this today, so hope to see a response! :)
vamarianne 3 years ago
Sorry, I'd have to be there to see it to give you a bullet-proof response.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
Make a slit in a metal roof. I would seal it with a good caulk and install in with screws without cutting slits in the metal.
stash1962 3 years ago
i'd like to see this professional man installing those things either on slate roofs or cedar shakes, LoL. Another thing, in the video he missed some important details as using caulking on the top part of the flashing. In winter time, it might leak, guess why?, well, snow accumulate on the top part of the pipe, later ice damns start growing under shingles, the purpose of the caulking is to stop those damns. he used caulking on exposed nails only!!, no good.
eastcoastman 3 years ago
Thanks for your comment. This flashing doesn't leak. It's been in for several years through driving rain and deep snow. I went to your channel and there's nothing there. If you are an expert roofer, how about sharing your knowledge with videos? Show us your methods. The method for installing the flashing in slate or wood shakes is the same. If you disagree, then tape your own video showing us how you do it.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
I agree with you, the flashing is working properly and it is not leaking because the pitch of the roof lets the water go fast and the snow does not stand as on a low slope roof. i've done roofing half of my life and what i wrote is based on my experience, sometimes sealant might not be necessary but doing so give peace of mind. Instead of caulking, there a large variety of products, i use ice-guard around every pipe, chimney, flashings, i.e. Unfortunately i've never loaded videos or pictures.
eastcoastman 3 years ago
You sure are confusing me. Your first comment states that I did the job wrong - and that you have a different method. Uploading a video to YouTube is easier than installing one asphalt shingle. Since you have a lifetime of roofing experience, you should share it. Are you going to take your knowledge to the grave with you? That's unacceptable in today's world. Surely you can take the time to do it if I done it. It's our obligation.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
when I install them I cauld the bottom of the vent to the felt paper and thats it. Great video
stash1962 3 years ago
you are lucky you have such pliable shingles! I have slate shingles on my house, a real PITA to work with.
remoman 3 years ago
Indeed they are. Rock is not too bendable, unless it is heated to about 1,500 F and under maybe 50 atmospheres of pressure.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
It's more than just "my idea". It is taught in journeyman school, it's on their tests, and if you're a roofer by trade, you would never dare do a roof without gumming the valleys, chimneys, vents, and so on. Similar to vinyl siding - you would never do a job without papering it all first.
Especially on lower slopes, water creeps under shingles and vents. A gum bead pushes it back out. That's all I can say.
AfeBahrooshe 3 years ago
I'm all for agreeing there is more than one way to do a task. However, roofing gum is a must in areas vents, chimneys, valleys, etc. Skipping this step is not a smart thing to do. It's cheap and lazy.
AfeBahrooshe 3 years ago
There are hundreds of thousands of roofs out there that have all of those things and *no* gum that are leak-free. I am not saying your idea is bad. I am trying to get you to have an open mind about the facts. If I have no gum and no leaks, then why must I do it? Don't answer that you think it is a good idea. Answer with some hard science.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
Give it time, it will leak. Water will creep up under the flashing and in the house it goes - unless there's a bead of gum stopping it from doing so.
AfeBahrooshe 3 years ago
How much time? More than 25 or 30 years? I have many vent flashings like that installed on my roof, and they have been there since day one. No leaks. I suggest that you consider there is more than one right way to do something. Keep in mind that regular shingles in the field do not leak, and each tab is not sealed as you suggest.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
There is a very significant step you missed Tim. Blackjack or "roofing gum" MUST be applied, every single time. If you miss this step, your vent WILL leak 100% guaranteed.
You must apply a bead of "gum" underneat the vent, and on top where the upper shingles rest on it.
Because of this vital step that was missed, I can't give this tutorial more than a 50% for usefulness. Sorry.
AfeBahrooshe 3 years ago
Gosh, I have bad news for you. You are wrong. You are welcome to come here to view the vent and the ceiling below. In fact, there are no less than 10 similar flashings exactly like that on my roof. No blackjack and not a drop of a leak, even in the most fierce wind/rain storm.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
Hey this is great, I need to install one of these, the moron that I had install the bathroom fan just has the hose pointing towards the soffits, now I see dark spots on the wood!! Now I just need to grow the cojones to go up there and cut a 6" hole in my roof!!
Thanks and I'll be coming here for more instruction!!
wlaukaitis 3 years ago
Eat more Wheaties.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
Great instructional video.
Thank you AsktheBuilder :-)
Marginal391 3 years ago
You are most welcome. More videos are in the works.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
just a lil tip you should put the next row of shingles over the vent as well... stop any leaks... time over time i have had to repair leaky vents done this why..
joefo53 3 years ago
Hi Tim! Is turbine installation the same way to do? Should I use screws, cause I live in Florida with many hurracains?
YusufRus 3 years ago
Yes. You can use screws. I see nothing wrong with that.
AsktheBuilder 3 years ago
Great work! And a sincere "Thank You" for the how to videos.
Another way could be to cut the hole, then insert the flashing, never cutting a single shingle (hey, that rymes.) Then simply use Karnak #19 Ultra flashing cement (or any quality brand) underneath the flashing (about a 1/3" layer.) Use (galvanized) screws (2 on each flange, 1/2' from the working surface) to secure. Then (NEATLY! ) cover the exposed flange with flashing cement making sure to overlap the shingles by 2- 3 inches.
sonic11377 4 years ago
This method, in my opinion, is the absolute worst way to install a flashing. Why hope the cement seal works for years when you absolutely can count on Gravity?
AsktheBuilder 4 years ago
I have to agree with Tim - those flashing cements are goo for about 2 yrs then Noah's flood comes. One thing you might mention Tim is to have the vent always above the fan and no drops in the hose or you get condensation that gets nasty, sometimes ices up. Can even become enough that it will get into the fan or ceiling.
I usually use Blackjack under the flashing before laying the shingles back and a spot to replace the old tar strip so the shingles dont blow up if the shingles dont re-adhere.
rhblakeman 3 years ago
I would have put that third row over the metal . any time you have a full exposure of a row it is to go on top of the flange wether it be a b- vent, air vent, plumbing stack, sky light,chimney(step flashing)think about driving rain blowing in the side were your hole is cut. then you could nail the side of the flashing down and have your shingle cover the nail. In B.C. where we see lots of rain.ive had to fix afew flashings that were installed that way. 23 yrs in this trade.
madwackplatipus 4 years ago
That's the way I do it but the way Tim has it will work well.
rhblakeman 3 years ago
I would have to agree with the other roofers. I have seen this type of installation leak. I would definately install one more shingle over the top of the shingle. I would also install roof cement (black jack) under the flashing and on top of the flashing under the shingles.
leiabsoldierboy 4 years ago
Pretty good! I would use clear silicone though instead of regular caulk.
emutiny 4 years ago
Thanks for the helpful videos! I have to do this exact thing to my house tomorrow morning, so I really appreciate the info!
Thanks, Tim!
bassaroo 4 years ago
You are most welcome. Comments like yours offset the ugly ones I get from time to time....Sigh! I appreciate the time you took to comment.
AsktheBuilder 4 years ago
And I really apreciate all these helpful videos.
You know, it just doesn't add up sometimes, does it? I watch your videos, I learn a lot from them, I enjoy your helpful advice, insights, and sense of humor, too. I think "Thank God for this video - just in time to help me get that job done". Meanwhile, I read the comments - often ugly! Yikes! What are those guys thinking?
Thanks again, Tim, - your work is much appreciated!
bassaroo 4 years ago
Many of those comments come from faceless, jealous haters. These are people for whom these famous sayings were talking about:
Actions speak louder than words.
Put up or shut up.
Just Do it.
YouTube dialog is video. Those people who think they have a better method should make videos of their own and let people like you decide who offers the best solution.
AsktheBuilder 4 years ago
look at page 304 in filed guide put out by gaf it has to do with roof projections for other ideas.like to use book as a guied also will adjust methods with what ive learned with own experences on since 1981. for example in some cases i will use ice shield under & over dripedge instead of just over drip edge in high probabilty ice dame areas never mentoned in book to keep ice from backing under dripege at gutter line where if installed only on top drip wood under drip will be vonerable to ice
momthing 4 years ago
rule of thumb when you lie flange on roof, bottom of flange should cover the bottom exopsed shinge by 2 inhes over exposed area and the rest of shingles should cover the flange on the sides and rear of flange leaving very bottom of flange exposed what do you think about my suggestion on nail placment at bottom of flange.
momthing 4 years ago
i agree flashings do work as field shingles. they only have exposer of 5 inches or more depending on style but the butt joint in the course below seats 4-6 inches away from any opening depending on shingle. leaving to much of flange uncovered is leaving an opening to buck water which is always covered when lieing shingles. usally your method is oka but i have seen problems resulting in directional rains and winter mounths
momthing 4 years ago
black jack should be used to adhear the shingls to the flange to keep them from lifting in time as there is adhesive on the shingles to do the same when you lie shingles on metal there is nothing adhering them. manufature even recomends flashing cement to be used on drip edge for same reason in high winds and cold teratories. also gravity will not work in ice dame conditions.
momthing 4 years ago
good video as a master eleite gaf contractor the only thin i suggest is that 1 more row go over the flange so 2 go under the flange and the rest around it keep the exp. nail in front of the flange not at cornors h2o at nail will be at min use blackjack under laping shingle of the flange to seal shingles to flange to keep ice snow and wind from lifting shingles at flange. you always have some great ideas just thought i would give you a roofers opionion
momthing 4 years ago
Thanks! What many people forget about flashings is they work just like field shingles. Think how regular shingles have no black jack under them. It is solely gravity keeping you dry. Remember too that nearly 42 percent of every average shingle is exposed. So leaving that much flashing exposed is no different than a shingle. :-)
AsktheBuilder 4 years ago
dekonfrost7 I hate to disagree and agree at the same time as I thought you were right but I looked at my GAF spec book (2006) and on page 112 it shows the installation for a SSB960 slant back Master Flow vent installed as he did it. He did face nail and caulk the heads which NOBODY does which should be done, but he did it by a manufactures book.
john67elco 4 years ago
wrong...wrong wrong...
you had a flat bar there why didn't you ruffle up the shingles left and right. they are supposed to overlaft the flashing on a static/slant vent...only an inch or so is supposed to overlap the bottom shingle depending on where the hole is...shingles overlap flashing not the other way round...
dekonfrost7 4 years ago
I have to respectfully disagree, and wonder if you really watched the entire video. For one, there are no leaks, and I know of thousands and thousands of vent flashings installed this way that do not leak. Furthermore, look at regular shingles. A twelve-inch-high shingle has five inches of exposure. That is 41% exposure! And field shingles installed this way on the right slope do not leak.
AsktheBuilder 4 years ago
I'm going to install a powered attic vent tomorrow where an existing static vent is located. I bought a tube of Black Jack Neoprene flash cement. Do I need to apply this on the roof where the flashing is to sit or just on the nail head surfaces
footearsaim 4 years ago
No need for that product. Watch the video again. I used no caulk or roofing cement as part of the flashing process. I *did* put a small dab of caulk on the visible nail heads on the exposed base of the flashing. Nails in that location keep the flashing from blowing/bending up in vicious windstorms.
AsktheBuilder 4 years ago
I can. I thought that video was already uploaded. If not, it will be within two weeks.
AsktheBuilder 4 years ago
thanks for all these great videos, can you upload drain tile installation. You know those plastic pipes with holes in it.
dantankun 4 years ago
I am a carpenter and I enjoy it very much. Many times I work alone on side job, so I am always on the lookout for new and easy ways of getting the job done effectively. Yes God-willing you will keep making more Videos because they mean a whole lot to this Journeywoman. Keep up the GREAT work!
Wizdom4U 4 years ago
Dear nestorrfortuna,
Donate the cash to a local charity that helps people who have severe housing needs. I will keep making videos, the Good Lord willin'!
AsktheBuilder 4 years ago
thanks a million, where should i find your address so i can send you the "consulting fee"
great vid, please keep posting
nestorrfortuna 4 years ago
Thanks a lot.
darcytirsia 4 years ago
And you shall see *many* more in-depth videos. Rest assured of that. :-> Thanks for your kind words. It means very much coming from a peer who knows the challenges of doing work in all sorts of different situations.
AsktheBuilder 5 years ago
I'm a re-modeler, and I know most of your videos are aimed at the beginner or do-it-yourselfer, but even I learned a thing or two after watching this. I really enjoy your more in-depth how-to videos like this one. Thanks!
playdrums 5 years ago