@chubbyllama7 Yes. It will function exactly as it did with the factory pin as long as you manage to leave the factory bushings in place. You are changing none of the tolerances in the system, you're simply making the pin removeable. The bushings control the slop in the hinge.
@assfault9 I get them from a local fastener store, but if you can't find any where you live go to the McMaster-Carr website and type in "Clevis Pins" they have everything under the freakin' sun (and decent prices too.)
wow...great job man. I was planning on doing this this week...THANK YOU!!!! And to think I was going to go about welding in allen angle wrenches or something...lol
@dixiemudtoy Yeah, it's a great mod. If you run into a clearance issue with the upper hinge trying to get the pin to thread up from the bottom and the head of the pin hits the door side bracket lower bolt, just file/grind down the head of the bolt a little. I used to just take that bolt to the grinder and grind it down and then bolt it back in. You can remove quite a bit and still be able to get a wrench on it. Once the bolt head is clearanced you'll never have to take the bolt out again.
@WheeliePete Just finished the job tonight...i'm going to put up a slideshow / video on my page, i'll send you the link to what I did. Luckily I didn't have to worry about the door bolts on my truck, they cleared just fine. A few differences I utilized: A.) I was only able to find 2", 3 1/2" and 4" multi-hole pins; since the 2" were too short, grabbed 4 of the 3 1/2" pins and trimmed two (to be used for the top) to about 1/4-1/2" excess.
@WheeliePete B.) I beveled down each pin (I made sure to leave enough material for the top ones...hince the 1/2" excess) to make blind insertion much easier...so if you just jiggle it around while placing into the holes, they somewhat self-align.
Other than that, pretty spot on to your work. Thanks for the video!
@dixiemudtoy I forgot to mention that in my video, I also put a little bevel on the point of the pin. I found that once I took the doors on and off a couple times I could do it in the dark. There's also some pins out there that have a spring loaded ball in the end of the pin sticking out of the side which would eliminate the need for the little clip (but I've never been brave enough to mount one of those upside down and see if it would stay put) the clips has always worked pretty well 4 me.
if i do this will i still get a good seal around my door? will it latch tight and not wiggle around and rattle when i hit bumps?
chubbyllama7 1 month ago
@chubbyllama7 Yes. It will function exactly as it did with the factory pin as long as you manage to leave the factory bushings in place. You are changing none of the tolerances in the system, you're simply making the pin removeable. The bushings control the slop in the hinge.
WheeliePete 1 month ago
Thank You! I Got My Local Parts Store To Order Some!
assfault9 4 months ago
Where can i Buy them Pins? All i can find is 2''.
assfault9 4 months ago
@assfault9 I get them from a local fastener store, but if you can't find any where you live go to the McMaster-Carr website and type in "Clevis Pins" they have everything under the freakin' sun (and decent prices too.)
WheeliePete 4 months ago
Excellent video!!! Keep up the good work!!
RescuePits1 8 months ago
I like that setup better than on an s10
ndchevy 10 months ago
I'm glad I saw this video, I'm tired of unbolting my doors on my 85 runner every time I go wheeling. Thanks for the info!
treadheavy4x4 11 months ago
this is awesome
lesliesmanjeff 1 year ago
wow...great job man. I was planning on doing this this week...THANK YOU!!!! And to think I was going to go about welding in allen angle wrenches or something...lol
dixiemudtoy 1 year ago
@dixiemudtoy Yeah, it's a great mod. If you run into a clearance issue with the upper hinge trying to get the pin to thread up from the bottom and the head of the pin hits the door side bracket lower bolt, just file/grind down the head of the bolt a little. I used to just take that bolt to the grinder and grind it down and then bolt it back in. You can remove quite a bit and still be able to get a wrench on it. Once the bolt head is clearanced you'll never have to take the bolt out again.
WheeliePete 1 year ago
@WheeliePete Just finished the job tonight...i'm going to put up a slideshow / video on my page, i'll send you the link to what I did. Luckily I didn't have to worry about the door bolts on my truck, they cleared just fine. A few differences I utilized: A.) I was only able to find 2", 3 1/2" and 4" multi-hole pins; since the 2" were too short, grabbed 4 of the 3 1/2" pins and trimmed two (to be used for the top) to about 1/4-1/2" excess.
dixiemudtoy 1 year ago
@dixiemudtoy Good deal! Glad to hear the pins cleared. What year of truck?
WheeliePete 1 year ago
@WheeliePete it's a 1986 toyota p/u 4x4.
dixiemudtoy 1 year ago
@WheeliePete check out my page, put up a video of the clips. there's a bunch of other ones too
dixiemudtoy 1 year ago
@WheeliePete B.) I beveled down each pin (I made sure to leave enough material for the top ones...hince the 1/2" excess) to make blind insertion much easier...so if you just jiggle it around while placing into the holes, they somewhat self-align.
Other than that, pretty spot on to your work. Thanks for the video!
dixiemudtoy 1 year ago
@dixiemudtoy I forgot to mention that in my video, I also put a little bevel on the point of the pin. I found that once I took the doors on and off a couple times I could do it in the dark. There's also some pins out there that have a spring loaded ball in the end of the pin sticking out of the side which would eliminate the need for the little clip (but I've never been brave enough to mount one of those upside down and see if it would stay put) the clips has always worked pretty well 4 me.
WheeliePete 1 year ago