Nice tip on securing and laying track. I'll use your method, as post repair of helix track is defnitely something I want to avoid, and yours looks to be the best method I've seen to date - Thanks
I can only speak for my experience. I think the hot glue is unnecessary, and I don't use it. I have not had screws come loose during years of helix use. The ties are not screwed too tight because the plywood does not compress like cork or homasote, which could cause the effect you mentioned. The setup as shown seems to work very nicely, and trouble free, for me anyway. I hope this helps!
Would you consider putting a little hot glue on the bottom of the track to help hold it in place - besides using the 5/8" screws? I would think after a while, the screws could come loose and or track shift if it's not tight enough. And then too tight will cause the track to bend in the middle causing the rails to come together slightly in some areas??? Or am I making too much of a big deal? I love your helix design. Best I've seen.
No expansion problems at all. There's a bit of "give" or flex between the attachment screws, so if the track expands, it can flex laterally just a tiny amount. If the track is fully glued down, as some people do, that much flex may not be possible, though I have never glued track down like that so I can't say for sure.
Do you have any problems with track expansion/contraction using welded rail on the helix? This looks like a great system. I'm in the beginning stages of building my layout. Hanging drywall on the walls now.
I'm getting ready to build my 7th layout. Never tried a Helix, but your video has inspired me to give it a try and I'll have a two level layout in a 10 x 11 foot room (HO).
QUESTION: How do you START the Helix - going from roadbed to just track on wood, and getting the right grade. I know once the first level is done, the rest is easy. I need this answered, cause I'm a bit lost on how to start the grade. Thanks
@Silver1Sprg - Going from roadbed to just track on wood is a matter of shimming the helix plywood roadbed to the correct track level. See the April 2008 Model Railroader for my article "Construct a Simple and Reliable Helix" that explains all about starting the grade.
Yes, those screws are obtrusive, and that's addressed in the video (Or I thought it was ...), but since the helix will be concealed, that's not a problem. The system works very well for me. Obviously, the visible trackage on the layout does not use those screws and washers.
Why do you use the screws to secure the track to the roadbed? Looks a bit obtrusive doesn't it? Or are you not worried about looks as the helix will probably be behind the scenes anyway?
Hi Jeff, great video, helped allot, I have been looking for video relating to the starting construction of a helix, how to start the first level and setup the grade. Also cutting out the curves out of plywood, do you have or know of any video on that?
started using this method last week. its an amazing method gonna suggest it to everyone! i tried the track pins/nails but that failed so look at other ways and found this method witch is the best! thanks!
The screws used to fasten the track down are 5/8 inch long, #4 or #6, chosen so the pan head doesn't quite slip through the washer, while not protruding too far above the washer, either. Visit a hardware store and experiment.
Nice tip on securing and laying track. I'll use your method, as post repair of helix track is defnitely something I want to avoid, and yours looks to be the best method I've seen to date - Thanks
2011Maynard 1 month ago
are these videos able to be purchased on DVD and what grade is ur helix set at for the climb and will it fit a model double stack train
dallas184 7 months ago
I can only speak for my experience. I think the hot glue is unnecessary, and I don't use it. I have not had screws come loose during years of helix use. The ties are not screwed too tight because the plywood does not compress like cork or homasote, which could cause the effect you mentioned. The setup as shown seems to work very nicely, and trouble free, for me anyway. I hope this helps!
JeffJohnston 8 months ago
Would you consider putting a little hot glue on the bottom of the track to help hold it in place - besides using the 5/8" screws? I would think after a while, the screws could come loose and or track shift if it's not tight enough. And then too tight will cause the track to bend in the middle causing the rails to come together slightly in some areas??? Or am I making too much of a big deal? I love your helix design. Best I've seen.
Silver1Sprg 8 months ago
Great video thanks & a lovely guy that knows what he's doing.. Thanks again from the UK.!
saab93contdi 9 months ago
No expansion problems at all. There's a bit of "give" or flex between the attachment screws, so if the track expands, it can flex laterally just a tiny amount. If the track is fully glued down, as some people do, that much flex may not be possible, though I have never glued track down like that so I can't say for sure.
JeffJohnston 9 months ago
Do you have any problems with track expansion/contraction using welded rail on the helix? This looks like a great system. I'm in the beginning stages of building my layout. Hanging drywall on the walls now.
dreambuilders48808 9 months ago
I'm getting ready to build my 7th layout. Never tried a Helix, but your video has inspired me to give it a try and I'll have a two level layout in a 10 x 11 foot room (HO).
QUESTION: How do you START the Helix - going from roadbed to just track on wood, and getting the right grade. I know once the first level is done, the rest is easy. I need this answered, cause I'm a bit lost on how to start the grade. Thanks
Silver1Sprg 9 months ago
@Silver1Sprg - Going from roadbed to just track on wood is a matter of shimming the helix plywood roadbed to the correct track level. See the April 2008 Model Railroader for my article "Construct a Simple and Reliable Helix" that explains all about starting the grade.
Good luck!
JeffJohnston 9 months ago
What type of solider do you use to do track and DCC decoders? And what kind of soldiering iron do you recommend?
Greg
njtcoastline 1 year ago
Elder:
Yes, those screws are obtrusive, and that's addressed in the video (Or I thought it was ...), but since the helix will be concealed, that's not a problem. The system works very well for me. Obviously, the visible trackage on the layout does not use those screws and washers.
JeffJohnston 1 year ago
Why do you use the screws to secure the track to the roadbed? Looks a bit obtrusive doesn't it? Or are you not worried about looks as the helix will probably be behind the scenes anyway?
elderfreddyboy 1 year ago
Hi Jeff, great video, helped allot, I have been looking for video relating to the starting construction of a helix, how to start the first level and setup the grade. Also cutting out the curves out of plywood, do you have or know of any video on that?
thanks!!
wruland 1 year ago
started using this method last week. its an amazing method gonna suggest it to everyone! i tried the track pins/nails but that failed so look at other ways and found this method witch is the best! thanks!
SuperNitromaster 1 year ago
The screws used to fasten the track down are 5/8 inch long, #4 or #6, chosen so the pan head doesn't quite slip through the washer, while not protruding too far above the washer, either. Visit a hardware store and experiment.
-Jeff Johnston
JeffJohnston 1 year ago
what screws were they?
SuperNitromaster 1 year ago