Added: 3 years ago
From: neverchk
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  • are there any potential risks as far as explosions go when using a GEET reactor on an engine compared to an hho dry cell?? would anyone here be willing to give me short simple instructions on how to build one for my 94 ford explorer??? will it work on this vehicle?? EFI 4.0l V-6 ODB-1.

  • Hemp makes good fuel (Ethanol)

  • Nice video the less parts/ simple design the better

    One concern with condensation ps check youtube motor bike after plasma test

    with hho set up i saw a set up whereby a copper pipe coil was installed on the hottest part of the engine to dry the system before it goes to the intake

    Has anybody open up the engine after so many hours

    cheers

    imtotob

  • would it work with alcohol instead of using gasoline?

  • I expect so, but I think the engine needs to start in its normal way (burning gasoline fumes) until the reactor is up to temperature ...specifically the exhaust gas temp so that the heat exchange is happening in the reactor. If you can get the motor to start on alcohol then I can't see why not, but I think alcohol might be a little to volatile for an unmodified lawnmower engine. plus alcohol is more expensive isn't it?

  • @zeropointprophet . YES I have used rubbing alcohol in mine. I built mine using paul pantones plans . I used flex pipe insted of copper pipe 

  • @uawwildbob I thought alcohol burned twice as fast. I remember my dad telling me about late model dirt track cars that used a different carb and ran off alcohol but it's mileage changes dramatically.

  • @taberr5 yes alcohol dose burn faster .But the geet dont use a carb in the conventional sence. the vacuume heat and magnetic field, change the molecular structure of fuel. so you can run on a mixture of fuels including some water

  • Is it true that these motors have to be "broken in" while facing magnetic north?

  • If you believe the free online plans, Yes. I've had this unit working facing the wrong direction initially so I think orientation only supposed to help. I have read the correct magnetic signature near the middle of my reactor using a pocket compass; that's how I know it was working. My problem has been condensation or fuel splashes traveling up the intake hose (which is too long) and dousing the reactor. It starts predictably, then starts to run cold, then the reactor gets wet and it chokes.

  • Evaporation retardent chemicals are blended for weather conditions.

    Natural gasoline evaporates very easaly at 100 degrees "F"so at 10 or 15 degrees not very much retardent.. should run almost all the fuel.

  • Have you heard of Preignition Catilytic Converter. A company was trying to sell a system that was alot like this for your car.

    They had a video for on here.

    The idea was that it turned your gasoline into a plasma gas. So your engine burn all of the fuel. No harmful emissions.

    Alot of people were saying it was a scam though. But your system works.

  • hey, so what does the gap measure between the rod and the inner pipe? i didnt understand. I have a system just like that but doestn work.:( maybe space is too big..

  • The gap between the rod and inner pipe is around 0.03125" or 1/32". That measure is all the way around so the actual diameter of the rod will differ from that of the pipe's I.D. by 1/16" or 0.0625".

  • i havent done any experiements yet, but i plan on starting things off with a few little ideas i have potting around. I am interested to know, why use petrol/oil and water, as they dont mix? using methanol/ethanol which mixes with water would also extend fuelling if you cut it, but at what point does the water effect combustion? thats what i need to know, although i willfind out later on my own.

  • My aim is to use something that I can get for free, or is a waste product. Fancy electrolytes and alcohols are expensive relative to straight gasoline. Water should break down to H-H-O and oil is a heavy hydrocarbon. The water mixes with all the impurities in the oil which isn't really desirable but isn't a problem in the long run anyway as it appears to be consumed evenly.... though I can't really tell if that's exactly true at this stage.

  • i can totally understand your aim, replacing fossil fuels with another fuel that requires heavy processing is only taking a step sideways or backwards. A lot of guys using things like this have seen that the water helps as a filter for the gasses but is ultimately not consumed. Maybe these guys dont have something quite like yours though

  • I think using a rod diameter of 7/16 inch is giving a you better reaction than others get with a 1/2 diameter rod with the gap size similar in both cases.

    In a side by side comparision with the rod to tube gap being 1/32 inch in both cases , a little smaller rod seems to work better for that size engine.

    A 3/8 inch diameter rod still with a 1/32 gap all around may work even better for small engines.

    The tight vortexing gives a better reaction that slightly larger and slower vortexing.

  • Nice! Good work. Where will you mount the carburettor afterwards? Have you tried with only engine oil and water?

  • Thx. My idea is to put the carb on the hose that feeds the bubbler, or have in intake tee before reactor that draws from bubbler and from carb. In both cases carb is pre-reactor so that the 14:1 carb fuel gets processed. That way it could run normally if the carb was at idle and bubbler was producing good fuel for the reactor.

    Haven't tried just oil/water yet but I'm not getting rich enough vapors from below-freezing oil I think. I need to preheat my fuel or recirculate exhaust to bubbler.

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