I just bought one of the Polarware 42qt brewpots. Were you able to screw the ball valve all the way on? My ball valve seems to fully tighten before it is all the way on which leave some open thread on the inside of the valve. I am afraid to tighten it all the way, it feels like it will snap. Were you able to screw the ball valve all the way on?
I am worried about trying to clean the gunk out of this open space? Do you take it apart after each brew to clean? the valve connection?
@etho606 I just posted a video reply for you so you can see how far it attaches. The ball valves I use do not cover all the threads, just make sure it is tight.
@vibratehigher Not really, one I hit my target temp and put the lid on it holds temp very well for about an hour, I usually only loose a degree in the summer or two degrees in the winter. I rarely turn the burner on once I have reached my mash temp.
I am just designing my AG setup now. Do you heat the water in your mash tun and then add the grain? Why do you recirculate the first runnings, does this let more of the particulates from the grains settle?
@vibratehigher I heat the water and then add grain, this pot has about 5 quarts of dead space below the false bottom, if you get something similar to this you may want to factor that into your mash water calculation so you use the correct amount of water for the mash. I recirculate the runnings, this will help settle the grain bed and allow the grain bet to also work a bit like a filter to achieve the clearest beer possible. You will likely do this regardless of the vessel you choose.
@Hupperware yes....i just draw off the 1st runnings and recirculate (usually bout 2 gallons) back through the top of the grain bed till it runs as clear as possible, then start draining into the boil kettle. As I am draining I take my sparge water, and run it through a colander (so as not to disturb the grain bed) I try to keep the sparge water level about even with the top of the grain bed and simply evenly pour it all over the top of the grains until I run out of water.
@fishheadH2o i did not make the false bottom, it came with the pot, but you can find the parts for a converted keg false bottom at most brew supply stores, the thermometers I purchased from williams brewing
@fishheadH2o I purchase it from williamsbrewing (part #J49 for the mash-tun thermometer and part# R33 for my boil kettle thermometer) they thread into a standard 1/2" female NPT fitting, be sure to get the correct fitting to weld into your converted keg. Before you drill, make sure you pour 5 gallons of H2O into your keg , mark the water level so you can be sure your thermometer is low enough for a 5 gallon batch...I put a vid up for you if you want to see more detail
I just bought one of the Polarware 42qt brewpots. Were you able to screw the ball valve all the way on? My ball valve seems to fully tighten before it is all the way on which leave some open thread on the inside of the valve. I am afraid to tighten it all the way, it feels like it will snap. Were you able to screw the ball valve all the way on?
I am worried about trying to clean the gunk out of this open space? Do you take it apart after each brew to clean? the valve connection?
etho606 1 month ago
@etho606 I just posted a video reply for you so you can see how far it attaches. The ball valves I use do not cover all the threads, just make sure it is tight.
immolateus 1 month ago
@etho606 I do not take it apart to clean it, I have a brush I use on the inside, see my cleaning video.
immolateus 1 month ago
Where can I purchase the screen you use on the ball valve in the brew pot? I'm converting a giant pot from a local restaurant warehouse.
JoshTheProfit 6 months ago
@JoshTheProfit i purchased the bazooka screens from williams brewing (online)
immolateus 6 months ago
Horrible video; what's the point of even making a video if no one can get anything from it?
CO2umbrella 6 months ago
@CO2umbrella What were you looking for?
immolateus 6 months ago
Sorry for all the separate comments, I keep thinking of things. Do you need an HLT in this kind of setup?
vibratehigher 11 months ago
@vibratehigher Yes. I have a simple 3rd pot just for hot water, I use a cheap thermometer in that one to et my sparge water to the correct temp.
immolateus 11 months ago
One more question, do you have to fire up the burner at any point to keep the temp in your mash tun?
vibratehigher 11 months ago
@vibratehigher Not really, one I hit my target temp and put the lid on it holds temp very well for about an hour, I usually only loose a degree in the summer or two degrees in the winter. I rarely turn the burner on once I have reached my mash temp.
immolateus 11 months ago
I am just designing my AG setup now. Do you heat the water in your mash tun and then add the grain? Why do you recirculate the first runnings, does this let more of the particulates from the grains settle?
vibratehigher 11 months ago
@vibratehigher I heat the water and then add grain, this pot has about 5 quarts of dead space below the false bottom, if you get something similar to this you may want to factor that into your mash water calculation so you use the correct amount of water for the mash. I recirculate the runnings, this will help settle the grain bed and allow the grain bet to also work a bit like a filter to achieve the clearest beer possible. You will likely do this regardless of the vessel you choose.
immolateus 11 months ago
With this setup, I take it you are batch sparging?
Hupperware 1 year ago
@Hupperware yes....i just draw off the 1st runnings and recirculate (usually bout 2 gallons) back through the top of the grain bed till it runs as clear as possible, then start draining into the boil kettle. As I am draining I take my sparge water, and run it through a colander (so as not to disturb the grain bed) I try to keep the sparge water level about even with the top of the grain bed and simply evenly pour it all over the top of the grains until I run out of water.
immolateus 1 year ago
That site did you get the thermometer? I'm building a brew pot from a 15 gal keg and am looking for parts. Did you make the false bottom ?
fishheadH2o 1 year ago
@fishheadH2o i did not make the false bottom, it came with the pot, but you can find the parts for a converted keg false bottom at most brew supply stores, the thermometers I purchased from williams brewing
immolateus 1 year ago
@fishheadH2o I purchase it from williamsbrewing (part #J49 for the mash-tun thermometer and part# R33 for my boil kettle thermometer) they thread into a standard 1/2" female NPT fitting, be sure to get the correct fitting to weld into your converted keg. Before you drill, make sure you pour 5 gallons of H2O into your keg , mark the water level so you can be sure your thermometer is low enough for a 5 gallon batch...I put a vid up for you if you want to see more detail
immolateus 1 year ago