My First Grown-Up Party

[alcon835]

lol! "Ann Smith" poor Greggerz! He just wanted an autograph =D

[LonelyFrenchman15]

btw will Anne mention me and then I'd become canon? :DDDD

[JenniPowell]

Guess we'll just wait and see...

;)

[LonelyFrenchman15]

yay!

[GregGallows]

wooot its back!

[JenniPowell]

Back and ready for action!

[stevemedico]

girls at parties with small bears get all the guys, don't they?

[JenniPowell]

Sho nuff. ;)

[jazmyngrey]

Welcome back Anne and the gang!

[MrJRWSloth]

Yay! The video is back.

I noticed that Bethany got to go to the party!

I'll have to talk to my humans about this.

[jazmyngrey]

I wouldn't worry too much Mr. Sloth, I'm sure she was doing some undercover work to free the fuzzies.

[modelmotion]

:):):)

[JenniPowell]

Horay for happy endings!

[Virginian9000]

Its back!

[JenniPowell]

!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[LONDONBORNKILLER]

its a load of shit sort it out

[LONDONBORNKILLER]

its a load of shit

[surfthetsu]

Greg's at it again -_- lol

[jerrypwjr]

LOL @ Kitty's expression at the very end!!!

[Pawnz0r]

Brother: I commend you.

[GregGallows]

The City in the Sea

by Edgar Allan Poe

[GregGallows]

Lo! Death has reared himself a throne In a strange city lying alone Far down within the dim West, Where the good and the bad and the worst and the best Have gone to their eternal rest. There shrines and palaces and towers (Time-eaten towers that tremble not!) Resemble nothing that is ours. Around, by lifting winds forgot, Resignedly beneath the sky The melancholy waters he.

[GregGallows]

No rays from the holy heaven come down

On the long night-time of that town;

But light from out the lurid sea

Streams up the turrets silently-

Gleams up the pinnacles far and free-

Up domes- up spires- up kingly halls-

Up fanes- up Babylon-like walls-

Up shadowy long-forgotten bowers

Of sculptured ivy and stone flowers-

[GregGallows]

Up many and many a marvellous shrine

Whose wreathed friezes intertwine

The viol, the violet, and the vine.

Resignedly beneath the sky

The melancholy waters lie.

So blend the turrets and shadows there

That all seem pendulous in air,

While from a proud tower in the town

Death looks gigantically down.

[GregGallows]

There open fanes and gaping graves Yawn level with the luminous waves; But not the riches there that lie In each idol's diamond eye- Not the gaily-jewelled dead Tempt the waters from their bed; For no ripples curl, alas! Along that wilderness of glass- No swellings tell that winds may be Upon some far-off happier sea- No heavings hint that winds have been On seas less hideously serene.

[GregGallows]

But lo, a stir is in the air! The wave- there is a movement there! As if the towers had thrust aside, In slightly sinking, the dull tide- As if their tops had feebly given A void within the filmy Heaven. The waves have now a redder glow- The hours are breathing faint and low- And when, amid no earthly moans, Down, down that town shall settle hence, Hell, rising from a thousand thrones, Shall do it reverence. -The End-

[GregGallows]

To One in Paradise

by Edgar Allan Poe

[GregGallows]

Thou wast all that to me, love,

For which my soul did pine-

A green isle in the sea, love,

A fountain and a shrine,

All wreathed with fairy fruits and flowers,

And all the flowers were mine.

[GregGallows]

Ah, dream too bright to last!

Ah, starry Hope! that didst arise

But to be overcast!

A voice from out the Future cries,

"Onward!"- but o'er the Past

(Dim gulf!) my spirit hovering lies

Mute, motionless, aghast!

[GregGallows]

For, alas! alas! with me

The light of life is o'er!

"No more-- no more-- no more,"

(Such language holds the solemn sea

To the sands upon the shore)

Shall bloom the thunder-blasted tree

Or the stricken eagle soar!

[GregGallows]

And all my hours are trances,

And all my nightly dreams

Are where thy dark eye glances,

And where thy footstep gleams-

In what ethereal dances,

By what Italian streams.

[GregGallows]

Alas! for that accursed time

They bore thee o'er the billow,

From Love to titled age and crime,

And an unholy pillow!--

From me, and from our misty clime,

Where weeps the silver willow!

[GregGallows]

The Haunted Palace

By E. A. Poe, ESQ.

[GregGallows]

In the greenest of our valleys

By good angels tenanted,

Once a fair and stately palace —

Snow-white palace — reared its head.

In the monarch thought's dominion —

It stood there!

Never Seraph spread his pinion

Over fabric half so fair.

[GregGallows]

Banners yellow, glorious, golden,

On its roof did float and flow —

This — all this — was in the olden

Time long ago —

And every gentle air that dallied,

In that sweet day,

Along the rampart plumed and pallid,

A winged odour went away.

[GregGallows]

All wanderers in that happy valley,

Through two luminous windows saw

Spirits moving musically

To a lute's well tuned law,

Round about a throne where sitting

(Porphyrogene!)

In state his glory well befitting,

The sovereign of the realm was seen.

[GregGallows]

And all with pearl and ruby glowing

Was the fair palace door ;

Through which came flowing, flowing, flowing,

And sparkling evermore,

A troop of echoes, whose sweet duty

Was but to sing

In voices of surpassing beauty,

The wit and wisdom of their king.

[GregGallows]

But evil things in robes of sorrow,

Assailed the monarch's high estate!

Ah, let us mourn — for never morrow

Shall dawn upon him desolate!

And round about his home the glory,

That blushed and bloomed,

Is but a dim-remembered story

Of the old time entombed.

[GregGallows]

And travellers now within that valley,

Through the red-litten windows, see

Vast forms that move fantastically

To a discordant melody;

While, like a rapid ghastly river,

Through the pale door;

A hideous throng rush out forever,

And laugh — but smile no more.

-The End-

[GregGallows]

A wilder'd being from my birth My spirit spurn'd control,

But now, abroad on the wide earth, Where wand'rest thou my soul?

In visions of the dark night I have dream'd of joy departed —

But a waking dream of life and light  Hath left me broken-hearted.

[GregGallows]

And what is not a dream by day To him whose eyes are cast

On things around him with a ray Turn'd back upon the past?

That holy dream — that holy dream, While all the world were chiding,

Hath cheer'd me as a lovely beam A lonely spirit guiding —

What tho' that light, thro' misty night So dimly shone afar—

What could there be more purely bright In Truth's day — star ?

[GregGallows]

A dark unfathom'd tide Of interminable pride — A mystery, and a dream, Should my early life seem; I say that dream was fraught With a wild, and waking thought Of beings that have been, Which my spirit hath not seen. Had I let them pass me by, With a dreaming eye! Let none of earth inherit That vision on [of] my spirit; Those thoughts I would controul, As a spell upon his soul:

[GregGallows]

For that bright hope at last

And that light time have past,

And my worldly rest hath gone

With a sight [sigh] as it pass'd on

I care not tho' it perish

With a thought I then did cherish.

-The End-

[Rekidk]

Hm... I'm wondering if Kitty might have a little crush on Jerry herself? I'd love to see a little Kitty/Jerry/Anne love-triangle drama.

Though maybe not... It would make Kitty look bitchy, and right now I LOVE Kitty. :)

[GregGallows]

ooooh! she might :D

[Virginian9000]

The question really is, if you check Anne's blog, does he want to go back home?

[JenniPowell]

Who is "he"?

[Virginian9000]

"she"

missing an s.

[JenniPowell]

Right right.

Yes, I think Anne needs to think about what SHE wants and not what everyone else expects of her.

[Virginian9000]

Are we talking about Anne?

[JenniPowell]

Well, it's just basic good advice.

[Virginian9000]

:):)

[GregGallows]

:D:D:D

[GregGallows]

thats truee as well

[GregGallows]

I think so

[GregGallows]

very true

[GregGallows]

ooh good question

[Virginian9000]

Everyone must be asleep. Good morning everybody.

[bigyiko]

Good by

[JenniPowell]

*waves*

Thanks for stoppin' by!

[JenniPowell]

Good morning Virginian. I just woke up. ;)

[Virginian9000]

Just waking up, FTW!

West Coast! lol. I was up a while ago. Its an East Coast thing since we have that 3 hour head start.

[JenniPowell]

I so wish I had that extra 3 hours right now. I have to drive from SD to LA in a few hours...so not looking forward to it.

[Virginian9000]

Honors for This Video:

#16 - Most Discussed (Today)

#4 - Most Discussed (Today) - People & Blogs

#3 - Most Responded (Today)

#12 - Most Responded (This Week)

[JenniPowell]

Goodness gracious! I never thought this would actually happen. You are all so wonderful! I can't thank you enough!

[Virginian9000]

I call Greg's combo lucky!!! Yes! Tainted!

[GregGallows]

Lucky # 10!

[JenniPowell]

Tainted Combo. Isn't that a song? Heeheehee.

[Virginian9000]

Its tainted becaues greg cheated. . . j/k

[JenniPowell]

Greg doesn't cheat...he bends the rules.  Heehee.

[GregGallows]

hehe I bend time and space!

[Virginian9000]

Lucky comboer. Only because everyone was asleep.

[GregGallows]

hhehehehe

[GregGallows]

one

[GregGallows]

two

[GregGallows]

three

[GregGallows]

four

[GregGallows]

five

[GregGallows]

six

[GregGallows]

seven

[GregGallows]

eight

[GregGallows]

nine

[GregGallows]

ten

[GregGallows]

combo!

[GregGallows]

sorry about all the randomness, just wanted to educate everyone :)

[JenniPowell]

I feel smarter already.

[GregGallows]

Natural History

Ball pythons (Python regius ) are found at the edges of the forest lands of

Central and Western Africa. They are equally comfortable on the ground and

in trees. They are crepuscular, active around dawn and dusk. Called Royal

pythons in Europe, they are called "Balls" in the United States due to their

habit of curling themselves up into a tight ball when they are nervous,

their heads pulled firmly into the center. Like most pythons, Balls are

curious and gentle snakes.

[GregGallows]

Balls typically reach 4 feet in length; occasionally there are specimens

that reach greater than 5 feet. When properly fed, their bodies become

nicely rounded. Like all pythons and boas, Balls have anal spurs. These

single claws appearing on either side of the vent are the vestigial remains

of the hind legs snakes lost during their evolution from lizard to snake

millions of years ago. Males have longer spurs than do the females; males

also have smaller heads than the females.

[GregGallows]

Ball pythons, like all pythons and boas, devour a variety of prey in the

wild - amphibians, lizards, other snakes, birds and small mammals. They do

not eat mice in the wild, however, and do not recognize the mice we offer

them as being something edible. Thus, imported wild-caught Balls tend to be

very picky eaters, at least initially, and drive their owners to distraction

in their attempts to get them to eat something.

[GregGallows]

Balls are reputed to be able

to go for extended periods of time without food; wild-caught Balls have gone

for a year or more without food until finally enticed to eat lizards and

other snakes. This is not a healthy trait and must not be a reason for

selecting this species. This should also make you suspicious when a pet

store tells you that their Balls are eating well.

[GregGallows]

Buying from a reputable breeder will ensure that you

will get the help and advice you need to assure that your Ball feels

comfortable and secure enough to eat after you bring it home and let it get

settled for a week or so.

[GregGallows]

With the increased popularity of reptiles as pets there is increased

pressure on wild populations. In addition to the more than 60,000 Balls that

are imported annually, Balls are killed for food and their skin is used for

leather in their native land. For some reason, despite their low

reproduction rate, wild Balls are the least expensive pythons on the market,

generally wholesaling for under ten dollars.

[GregGallows]

Imported Balls also harbor

several different types of parasites which may go unnoticed by the novice

snake owner. All around, it is better to buy a captive-born hatchling or an

established, well-feeding juvenile, sub-adult or adult than an imported Ball

of any age.

[GregGallows]

In captivity, young Balls will grow about a foot a year during the first

three years. They will reach sexual maturity in three to five years. The

longest living Ball python on record was over 28 years old when it died.

Egg-layers, female Balls encircle their four to ten eggs, remaining with

then from the time they are laid until they hatch. During this three month

period, they will not leave the eggs and will not eat.

[GregGallows]

Selecting your Ball Python

Choose an animal that has clear firm skin, rounded body shape, clean vent,

clear eyes, and who actively flicks its tongue around when handled. All

Balls are naturally shy about having their heads touched or handled by

strangers; a normal reaction is for the Ball to pull its head and neck

sharply away from such contact. When held, the snake should grip you gently

but firmly when moving around.

[GregGallows]

It should be alert to its surroundings. All

young snakes are food for other, larger snakes, birds, lizards and mammalian

predators so your hatchling may be a bit nervous at first but should settle

down quickly.

[GregGallows]

Selecting an escape-proof enclosure

Select an enclosure especially designed for housing snakes, such as the

glass tanks with the combination fixed screen/hinged glass top. All snakes

are escape artists; Balls are especially powerful and cunning when it comes

to breaking out. A good starter tank for a hatchling is a 10 gallon tank

(approx. 20"L x 10"W). A young adult requires a 20 gallon tank, and full

adult may require a 40-50 gallon tank (48" x 24"W).

[GregGallows]

For substrate, use newspaper at first. This is easily and quickly removed

and replaced when soiled and, with an import, will allow you to better

monitor for the presence of mites and the condition of the feces. Once the

animal is established, you can use more decorative ground cover such as

commercially prepared shredded cypress or fir bark, although newspaper will

serve as a good substrate for the life of the animal.

[GregGallows]

Pine and aspen

shavings should not be used as they can become lodged in the mouth while

eating, causing respiratory and other problems. Additionally, cedar may be

toxic to reptiles. The shavings must be monitored closely and all soiled and

wet shavings pulled out immediately to prevent bacteria and fungus growths.

The utilitarian approach is to use inexpensive astroturf.

[GregGallows]

Extra pieces can

be kept in reserve and used when the soiled piece is removed for cleaning

and drying (soak in one gallon of water to which you have added two

tablespoon of household bleach; rinse thoroughly, and dry completely before

reuse). Remember: the easier it is to clean, the faster you'll do it!

[GregGallows]

rovide a hiding place

A variety of hide boxes are suitable for your Ball Python, but some form of

hiding area is absolutely essential. A half-log is available at pet stores.

An empty cardboard box or upside-down opaque plastic container, both with an

access doorway cut into one end, can also be used. The plastic is easily

cleaned when necessary; the box can be tossed out when soiled and replaced

with a new one.

[GregGallows]

Broiling pan lids, propped up at one end, are effective and

extremely easy to clean. The box or log must be big enough for the snake to

hide its entire body inside;

[GregGallows]

you will need to eventually replace it as your

snake grows. Balls prefer dark places for sleeping and, as they are

nocturnal, they like the dark place during our daylight hours; they also

like to sleep in something that is close around them, so do not buy or make

too big of a cave for its size. Place a nice climbing branch or two in the

tank with some fake greenery screening part of it; your Ball will enjoy

hanging out in the "tree."

[GregGallows]

Temperature

Proper temperature range is essential to keeping your snake healthy. the

ambient air temperature throughout the enclosure must be maintained between

80-85 degrees F during the day, with a basking area kept at 90 degrees F. At

night, the ambient air temperature may be allowed to drop down no lower than

75 degrees F only if a basking area of at least 80 degrees F remains

available.

[GregGallows]

Special reptile heating pads that are manufactured to maintain a

temperature about 20 degrees higher than the air temperature may be used

inside the enclosure. There are adhesive pads that can be stuck to the

underside of a glass enclosure. Heating pads made for people, available at

all drug stores, are also available; these have built-in hi-med-lo switches

and can be used under a glass enclosure.

[GregGallows]

However, when using drug store

heating pads, monitor their temperature carefully and do not allow the snake

direct contact with the pad. You can also use incandescent light bulbs in

porcelain and metal reflector hoods to provide the additional heat required

for the basking area. All lights must be screened off to prevent the snake

from burning itself. All pythons, especially Ball pythons, are very

susceptible to thermal burns.

[GregGallows]

For this same reason do not use a hot rock.

New on the market are ceramic heating elements. They radiate heat downwards,

do not emit light, and are reported to be long lasting. Plugged into a

thermostat will enable you to adjust the temperature inside the tank as the

ambient room temperature changes with the seasons.

[GregGallows]

Buy at least two thermometers-- one to use in the overall area 1" above the

enclosure floor, and the other 1" above the floor in the basking area. Don't

try to guess the temperature-- you will either end up with a snake who will

be too cold to eat and digest its food or one ill or dead from overheating.

No special lighting is needed. Balls are nocturnal snakes, spending their

days in the wild securely hidden away from possible predators.

[GregGallows]

To make it

easier to see your Ball during the day, you can use a full-spectrum light or

low wattage incandescent bulb in the enclosure during the day. Make sure the

snake cannot get into direct contact with the light bulbs as Balls are very

prone to getting seriously burned.

Respect your Ball's needs, however, and be sure to provide a hide box, and

expect them to use it!

[GregGallows]

Feeding

Allow your snake to acclimate to its new home for a couple of weeks. Start

your hatchling (about 15" in length) off with a single pre-killed one week

to 10-day old "fuzzy" mouse. A smaller sized hatchling may require a smaller

mouse; try a pre-killed 5-day old. Older Balls may be fed larger pre-killed

mice or pinkie rats.

[GregGallows]

If you have not had any experience force feeding a

snake, you may not want to try it yourself until you have seen someone do

it. Force feeding, whether of a mouse or with a formula inserted by catheter

and syringe, is very stressful for the snake (and it isn't much fun for the

owner!). If your new Ball has gone several months without eating and is

beginning to noticeably lose weight, take it to a reptile vet or contact

[GregGallows]

your local herpetology society and ask to speak to someone who is

knowledgeable about Ball pythons and feeding problems. A good inexpensive

book that covers some of the tricks to enticing reluctant Balls to feed is

The Care and Maintenance of Ball Pythons by Philippe de Vosjoli.

[GregGallows]

Provide a bowl of fresh water at all times. Your snake will both drink and

soak, and may defecate, in it. Check it daily and change when soiled.

Soaking is especially good just before a shed. When they eyes clear from

their milky opaque, or "blue" state, soak the snake in a tub of warm water

for ten minutes or so, then lightly dry it off, and return it immediately to

its tank; it should shed cleanly within twenty-four hours.

[GregGallows]

Veterinary Care

Routine veterinary care for newly acquired snakes is essential. Many of the

parasites infesting Balls and other reptiles can be transmitted to humans

and other reptiles. Left untreated, such infestations can ultimately kill

your snake. When your snake first defecates, collect the feces in a clean

plastic bag, seal it, label it with the date, your name and phone number and

the snake's name, then take it and your snake to a vet who is experienced

with reptiles.

[GregGallows]

There it will be tested and the proper medication given if

worms or protozoan infestations are found.

Common problems encountered in captivity include retained eye shed

(spectacles) and mites. When snakes shed their skin, the layer of skin over

their eye is also shed, and can be clearly seen when looking at a piece of

head shed. Always check your Ball's head shed to assure it has shed the

spectacles.

[GregGallows]

If one or both spectacles have been retained, bathe the snake

again in warmish water for about ten minutes. Before returning it to the

enclosure, place a dab of mineral oil on that eye with a cotton-tipped swab.

The spectacle should come off within twenty-four hours. If it does not come

off, wrap your four fingers with transparent tape, sticky side out. Gently

rock your fingers from left to right (or, from nose to neck) across the eye;

the spectacle should come off.

[GregGallows]

If this does not removed the spectacle, then

seek veterinary assistance.

Mites

Mites are a sign of poor environmental conditions. Adult mites are tiny

reddish brown dots barely bigger than the period at the end of this

sentence. You may first notice them swarming over your hand and arm after

you have handled your snake (don't worry--they are harmless to humans) or

see them moving around your snake's body or clustered around the eyes.

[GregGallows]

Mites

are harmful to snakes, especially ones that have not been kept properly. On

the positive side, they are easy and relatively inexpensive to get rid of,

although the process is time-consuming. Place the snake into a warmish bath

into which Betadine or Listerine mouthwash has been added - the water should

be slightly yellow and the aroma very apparent.

[GregGallows]

While the snake is soaking, clean out the enclosure. Throw away the

substrate (careful to not let any spill on the floor) and any wooden objects

in the enclosure such as branches or hide logs. Rocks should be boiled for

ten minutes, then placed back in the enclosure for fumigating.

[GregGallows]

Wash the tank out thoroughly with soapy water, then swab down with a

bleach-water solution (one cup bleach to one gallon of water); let the

solution sit for ten minutes, then rinse out thoroughly before fumigating.

To fumigate, place inside the enclosure (on a piece of foil) a Vapona Strip

or Hart's 3-in-One Flea Collar. Seal up the tank: tape foil or heavy paper

over all openings. Let sit for two hours.

[GregGallows]

Unseal, replace the strip or

collar back in their package and enclose in a plastic bag for future use.

Let the tank air out for at least two hours before putting in new substrate

and furnishings. Before placing the snake back in the enclosure, dab each

eye with mineral oil; this will seep into the tiny pits along side the eye

in which the mites hide and breed. Watch the snake and enclosure carefully.

[GregGallows]

Mites are like fleas in that they have an extended egg cycle, and any eggs

you and the fumigant missed may hatch in four to six weeks. If you see any

at that time, repeat all of the above steps. That should be the last time

you will have to do it. In the meantime, evaluate the snake's environment

(heat, photoperiod, privacy) and health (internal parasites, respiratory

infection, pseudomonas infection [mouthrot], lesions, protozoan infections)

[GregGallows]

to determine the underlying cause for the weakness then enabled the mites to

take hold. Then fix it!

Handling your new snake

After giving your Ball a couple of days to settle in, begin picking it up

and handling it gently. It may move away from you, and may threaten you by

lashing it's tail and hissing; don't be put off - it is usually just a

bluff, and snakes, like most reptiles, are very good at bluffing! Be gentle

but persistent.

[GregGallows]

Daily contact with each other will begin to establish a

level of trust and confidence between you and your snake. When it is

comfortable with you, you can begin taking it around the house. Don't get

over-confident! Given a chance and close proximity to seat cushions, your

Ball will make a run (well, a slither) for it, easing down between the

cushions and from there, to points possibly unknown. Always be gentle, and

try to avoid sudden movements.

[GregGallows]

If the snake wraps around your arm or neck,

you can unwind it by gently grasping it's tail and gently unwrapping it from

around your neck or arm - do not try to unwrap it by moving the head. Some

snakes are a bit sensitive about being handled soon after they have eaten.

If you feed your snake out of it's enclosure, go ahead and replace it back

into it's enclosure after it has finished eating. Then leave it be for a

couple of days.

[GregGallows]

As the snake gets more comfortable with you, it will be less

nervous and less likely to give you back your mouse.

Necessities

Some things you should have on hand for general maintenance and first aid

include: Nolvasan (Chlorhexidine diacetate) for cleaning enclosures and

disinfecting food and water bowls, litter boxes, tubs, sinks, your hands,

etc. Betadine (povodine/iodine) for cleansing scratches and wounds.

[GregGallows]

Set

aside a food storage bowl, feeding and water bowls, soaking bowl or tub,

even sponges, to be used only for your snake.

Enjoy yourselves

You have a companion that will be a part of your life for a great many years

if taken care of properly. They should remain alert and active well into

their old age.

[GregGallows]

The main causes of death of snakes in captivity are directly

related to their care: improper temperatures, contact with heating and

lighting elements, no regular access to water, lack of necessary veterinary

care and treatment, careless handling--all things for which we, as their

caretakers, are directly responsible.

Places to Go, Things to See and Learn:

[GregGallows]

Join your local herpetological society where you can meet other reptile

owners, learn more about your ball python, and find an experienced reptile

veterinarian in your area. Check your local pet stores and library for these

and other python and reptile care books:

The General Care and Maintenance of Ball Pythons . Philippe de Vosjoli,

1990. Advanced Vivarium Systems, Lakeside CA.

[GregGallows]

The Completely Illustrated Atlas of Reptiles and Amphibians . Obst, Richter

and Jacob, 1988. TFH Publications, Inc. Neptune City, NJ.

Snakes of the World . Scott Weidensaul, 1991. Chartwell Books, Seacacus, NJ.

Living Snakes of the World . John M. Mehrtens, 1987. Sterling Publishing Co.

New York.

[GregGallows]

If you own an AMI bios, set auto-detection (of newly installed devices and

memory configuration changes) to OFF. My machine was set to ON when I bought

it, and that turned out a Norton SI score of 99.8, now, when set to on, it

pumps out 107.9.

Sometimes it is not called "auto-detection". But it's always something similar,

so you can really figure it out...

[GregGallows]

The only case you want to set it on, is when you have installed more ram, etc..

Then reboot, and set it to OFF again.

Other useful parameters so set are, ALL cache [this and that] to on.

Memory tick sound=off.

Test memory over 1 mb=off.

[GregGallows]

If you by mistake set the password-checking in the bios to ON, the password

is AMI by default. If you however have changed the password before turning

password-checking to on, there are still two things you might do.

1) Search the motherboard for a jumper that states "bios password check", or something similar. Change it, turn on the machine, remove the password, save and leave the bios, turn off the machine, and put the jumper back in place.

[GregGallows]

2) Remove the CMOS battery. It is usually (?) blue, and the size of 2*3*1.5cm's. Remove it, and put it back in. ALL your bios settings should now be gone. You DID take a backup of it, didn't you??!? If it is melted down into a socket. There IS a way to remove it, but nah.... That should be left to professionals.

[GregGallows]

If you cannot change the parameters supplied with your BIOS, there IS a way to

change it! There are some special operations you can easily do with machine-

code to change your parameters, but the upmost excellent way of doing this

is to use a program that usually is supplied with your computer. If it is not,

you might freely download a program that do the same task (or you may HOPE

that that's what it does. There is no safety regarding this. Bios'es is

different...

[GregGallows]

An even better solution is to buy a version of Checkit PRO

that I think contains code that let's you change your CMOS parameters...

(Great, a 100$+ product to change your CMOS settings!), Ofcourse, you might

find additional uses for that product, or you might find different products

that performs similar actions.

[GregGallows]

If your motherboard supports changes of clock-speeds, you might try out a new

setting. Usually the jumper is marked by a VL-BUS clock speed jumper, or by

a CLOCK-SPEED jumper (or motherboard clo...., and so on...). Set it higher

and higher, if possible. If your system boots nice with this change, AND your

computers built in clock works fine, you might find out that you want to live

with the new configuration. If you do so, INSTALL A FAN!

[GregGallows]

I have experienced

a 50 mhz dx2 burn up when left on for a whole day! If the processor feels

hot, install a heat sink in addition! Coolness extends your computers life, and

might avoid some unfortunate errors, like sudden system crashes, bios failure,

etc.... Intel and all other chip manufacturers STRONGLY DISCOURAGES you to

set the clock speed higher than rated. But several systems work fine. For

example, a 486 sx 25, where set to 50Mhz, and now it BLAZES away!

[GregGallows]

Several

people have tried this with luck, so you might want to consult them before

taking any actions. A good place to meet such people, is at a BBS, a NET

like internet, or perhaps the excellent Compuserve Information Service (CIS),

America ONLINE, or some other place.

[GregGallows]

You Can See at Night

-------------------- You can see much more in the dark than you realize. However, to take

maximum advantage of this ability, you must understand how your eyes are

constructed and how to use them to see best under conditions of poor

visibility.

[GregGallows]

Your Eyes Are Like a Camera

--------------------------- Certain parts of your eyes compare to a simple camera.

a. The lens focuses light entering the eye just as does the lens of a camera.

b. The iris corresponds to the diaphragm of a camera, opening and closing to

regulate the amount of light entering the pupil.

[GregGallows]

c. The retina corresponds to the camera film. Light rays strike the retina,

form an image, and cause an impression to be transmitted to the brain through

the optic nerve. The brain tells us what we see. In a camera, the image is

stored and fixed on film.

[GregGallows]

Day and Night Eyes

------------------ The cone area is composed of cone cells and rod cells, so-called because of

their shapes.

[GregGallows]

a. Cone cells enable you to see color, shape, and sharp contrast. A great

deal of light is required to activate them and they are blind during periods

of low illumination. For this reason, they are your day eyes. The cone cells

are concentrated in the cone region, directly behind the lens, and decrease in

number with distance from the center of the cone region.

[GregGallows]

b. Rod cells produce a chemical substance called visual purple which makes

them active in darkness or periods of low illumination. They are your night

eyes. Rod vision enables you to distinguish black, white, and shades of grey

and to distinguish general outlines. Most of the rod cells are in the area

of the retina around the cone region. A few are in the cone region.

[GregGallows]

Seeing at Night

--------------- Using your eyes effectively at night requires the application of the

principles of night vision - dark adaptation, off-center vision, and scanning.

[GregGallows]

a. Dark Adaptation means allowing your eyes to become accustomed to low levels

of illumination. It takes about 30 minutes for the rod cells to produce

enough visual purple to enable you to distinguish objects in dim light. This

may be accomplished by staying in a red-lighted area, or by wearing red

goggles for 20 minutes, followed by 10 minutes in darkness (to allow pupils to

open wide).

[GregGallows]

b. Off-center vision is the technique of keeping your attention focused on an

object without looking directly at it. When you look directly at an object,

the image is focused on the cone region, which is not active at night. When

you look slightly to the left, right, above, or below an object, the image is

formed in the area of the retina containing rod cells, which are sensitive in

the darkness.

[GregGallows]

The most sensitive area in individuals varies, but usually is

found by looking 6� to 10� away from an object. In effect, you look out of

the corner of your eye.

c. Scanning is using off-center vision to observe an area or an object. When

you use rod vision, the visual purple in the rod cells bleaches or blacks out

in 4 to 10 seconds, and the object observed disappears. As the visual purple

in one area bleaches out, you must shift your eyes slightly so fresh rod cells

are being used.

[GregGallows]

Move your eyes in short, abrupt, irregular movements over and

around your target, but do not look directly at it. Pause a few seconds at

each point of observation because your eyes cannot see while in motion.

Factors Affecting Night Vision

------------------------------

[GregGallows]

Visual purple is chemically related to vitamin A, and a serious lack of

vitamin A impairs your night vision. However, excessive amounts of vitamin A

will not necessarily improve your night vision. Colds, headaches, fatigue,

narcotics, heavy smoking, and excessive use of alcohol reduce your ability to

see at night. Exposure to bright light for extended periods impairs both day

and night vision.

[GregGallows]

Preserving Night Vision

----------------------- Night vision is quickly destroyed if bright light is allowed to enter the

eye. If this cannot be avoided, such as when you must enter a lighted area

or observe in a temporarily lighted area, close and cover one eye to preserve

the night vision in that eye. When the light goes away, the night vision

retained in your protected eye enables you to see until the other eye becomes

adapted to the darkness.

[GregGallows]

Confidence

---------- Confidence is very important. You usually use your eyes where there is

plenty of light, so you are used to sharp outlines and bright colors. In

darkness, objects are faint, have no sharp outlines, and have little or no

color. You must believe what your eyes tell you. Gain confidence by faithful

practice in using the principles of night vision.

[GregGallows]

Movement

-------- Usually you must move more quietly in the night than in the day. Here are

some general rules to help you --

a. Move around thick undergrowth, dense woods, and ravines. Your field of

observation is reduced and it is difficult to move quietly.

b. Move as quickly as circumstances allow, but avoid running if possible. You

may fall or make unnecessary noise.

Have Phun..

[GregGallows]

When the rain comes tumbling down

In the country or the town,

All good little girls and boys

Stay at home and mind their toys.

Robert thought, - "No, when it pours,

It is better out of doors."

Rain it did, and in a minute

Bob was in it.

Here you see him, silly fellow,

Underneath his red umbrella.

[GregGallows]

What a wind! Oh! how it whistles

Through the trees and flow'rs and thistles.

It has caught his red umbrella;

Now look at him, silly fellow,

Up he flies

To the skies.

No one heard his screams and cries;

Through the clouds the rude wind bore him,

And his hat flew on before him.

[GregGallows]

Soon they got to such height,

They were nearly out of sight!

And the hat went Up so high,

That it almost touch'd the sky.

No one ever yet could tell

Where they stopp'd, or where they fell;

Only this one thing is plain,

Rob was never seen again!

[modelmotion]

the site is live

[JenniPowell]

It's so live! And ready for action!

[Virginian9000]

couldn't sleep. How is everyone doing?

[JenniPowell]

I am great! Getting ready to launch the site in 10 minutes!

[JenniPowell]

In the meantime, we be drinkin

[modelmotion]

i still cant make out the icon

[JenniPowell]

It's Anne giving Bethany booze I think.

[modelmotion]

:):):)

[Virginian9000]

Triple Smiley!

[JenniPowell]

Quintuple smiley!

[JenniPowell]

Jenny I got your number