Climbing Tools: Rap Safety- Part 4-The Prussik

[PewseyClimbing]

dont use this method the prusik should be attached below the reppel devise and should be attached to your leg loope

[mikebarter387]

@PewseyClimbing Pewsey is right that the prefered method is to have the prusik below the belay device and attached to the leg loop. It is much easier to unload the prusik after it has been loaded or weighted. It is not wrong to put the prssik above the device.

60% people will have the prussik to LONG when they first hook up a prusik below a device. What happens then is the prussik jams up under the device and never really bites. In a rescue up may want it above if ascending the rope right away.

[Mateyhv1]

@mikebarter387 If the prussik is above the rappel device a Bachmann knot would make it much easier to unload it in a freehanging situation than the more classic prussik knot. You are right about the opposite configuration, the lenght of the prussik sould always be tested before rappeling because it could jam up under the device and would not bite the rope at all, clearly a very dangerous situation.

[ttsaks]

This is a good series for folk who like thinking through procedures and considering their options. Thanks!

[RedDragon0719]

" and if your tired and in mountaineering your probably not thinking right in the first place" haha crazy canucks

[ink357]

look, it's jeff goldblum. he should've used the Jurassic park theme song.

[hellbrainsx]

great video

[mtothectothea]

You can always solve the issue of the prussik getting sucked into the belay device by extending your belay device from your harness using a sling. This will also give you more control generally.

I have never heard of tying a prusik via Euro Death Knot. The double fisherman's knot is used in all cases I've seen. With the EDK you can load the knot in a way that reduces its strength and it can slip.

A short prusik that is permanently tied off with a DF's knot weighs nothing and is always useful.

[mikebarter387]

@mtothectothea All good points. Thanks for adding to the conversation.

The Mike

[oceandojo]

Lot's of good stuff from you. Thank you for posting.

[xcrement]

LOL

Laughed hard at 4:03. My favorite of all of mikes vids and the personal prussik works too!.

[spongefish]

i thought you were saying blade of ice, not belay device hehe :) great video!

[Termi2600]

I found using a pp below my belay (which i used on an extended sling to avoid trappage) meant i could not ab quickly enough to avoid rocks and obsticales. Is there anyway to make the rope feed faster through the device?

Also would using overhand knots at the end stop you from abbing off the rope with a fig8?

[sawbackwc]

You don't like getting the PeePee stuck in the belay device dmosier? Well just put an extendo sling between the belay device and the belay loop. No stuck PeePee.

[dmosier]

I much prefer the prussik BELOW my rap device.

Yes it must be kept short in order to work, but I think this is better than getting the prussik stuck above the device any day.

I also use this method for taking pictures and sorting out tangled ropes. A free hand is always a good thing

[sawbackwc]

Yes, I like the PeePee too dmosier

[simongeering]

As an additional asside it should be noted that the techniques of using a prusik backup work equaly well when applied to using two half ropes, or when a single rope is doubled up to create a retrievable absail, you simply wrap both ropes.

[Jack63815]

ahhh cool. can a french Prusik work when simply wrapped over both ropes?

[simongeering]

Yep just wrap both lines. Handy for backing up an abb when you want to get the rope down after. The trick is to experiement with your ropes and prusik chord in a safe enviroment before hand as different rope thicknesses age and material of both rope and chord will need different number of wraps of the prusik chord round the rope to give a good grip.

[simongeering]

for those who are looking at using the above the belay device method consider using the french prusik as the friction on this can be broken. It is also a good idea to figure out how many loops you need for your ropes and your Prusik chord to get sufficient friction, as different ages of rope and rope treatments cuase different amounts of friction.

[elvis237]

Good comment Simon. You know what you are talking about. French is the way to go.

[zintisp]

Very clear, informative, concise.  Thanks for the videos.

[Aplus1974]

I like the tip with the double sling, very nice. I sometimes use a Wild Country VC (like an ATC XP) with an 8.5mm rope and have taken to using an extra biner for more friction. I'm interested to see part 5 on devices. Great work, very clear and informative.

[zilles]

I love your stuff. If I had a sister, I'd have her give you a call. Thanks for doing these!