Wow, that took way to long to indicate in!! If i went that slow, I'd get fired for sure!! And why does it look like your depth of cut is so light, It's Aluminum! you can take at least .200 per side and feed in harder... leave .030 per side for your finish cut and feed slow on that... I set up 144" VTL's wit a 4 jaw chuck and you managed to take longer to indicate that part in than I do.
@msgmonly There's a couple of models of the C4. The C4S that I have has a 1kW speed controlled motor that will cut just about anything without bogging down. Even so, it is a hobby machine paid for out of my own pocket, so there's no way I would risk damaging it on a heavy cut just so I could look good to the "my lathe's bigger than yours" wankers.
Thanks for speeding up the video. I do very similar setups boring clamps for tubing benders and sometimes it takes over an hour just to get them aligned properly.
i'm only a college student learning about engineering right now,but wouldn't it have been quicker and easier to have just drilled and reamed it on a pillar drill?
SupermaxCNC, you can easily measure ID with calipers and with the help of micrometer you can get accurate results down to 0.01 mm accuracy. Been there, done that for living.
If your calipers have a flat face in the jaws then I suggest buying real calipers.
@JaakkoF If calipers did not have a flat on the ID jaws they would be razor sharp which would be a poor choice in design do to issues handling and durability. Calipers work OK at larger diameter but when you get this small it will measure off by as much as a couple thousandths which if you are making something that needs to be within high tolerances, like a bearing fit, will cause you to go oversize.
FWIW, all my calipers are real. Mitutoyo and Swiss made SPI.
You know a "billet" never leaves the steel/aluminum mill? "Billet" is a term that sales guys like to throw around.
You should not use calipers to measure I.D. The ID jaws have flat faces and will give you an undersize reading. Get a good set of telescoping gauges at the very least.
i actually enjoy in using lathe machine very much!
MightySerbianFighter 1 week ago
Certainly not boring - more entertaining than most TV!
SiGraybeard 1 month ago
Is it safe to extend chuck jaws that much? On "long" side i see more than a half jaw out of chuck body - scarry.
grg121344 2 months ago
Wow, that took way to long to indicate in!! If i went that slow, I'd get fired for sure!! And why does it look like your depth of cut is so light, It's Aluminum! you can take at least .200 per side and feed in harder... leave .030 per side for your finish cut and feed slow on that... I set up 144" VTL's wit a 4 jaw chuck and you managed to take longer to indicate that part in than I do.
erinbear123 6 months ago
@erinbear123 .200 cut would stop that lil hobby lathe dead!
msgmonly 6 months ago
@msgmonly There's a couple of models of the C4. The C4S that I have has a 1kW speed controlled motor that will cut just about anything without bogging down. Even so, it is a hobby machine paid for out of my own pocket, so there's no way I would risk damaging it on a heavy cut just so I could look good to the "my lathe's bigger than yours" wankers.
MrSwanley 1 month ago
Thanks for speeding up the video. I do very similar setups boring clamps for tubing benders and sometimes it takes over an hour just to get them aligned properly.
bddc201 7 months ago
thump up, if u searched boring, and clicked on the first video :)
BornToKillization 9 months ago
No good
richeleat 9 months ago
i'm only a college student learning about engineering right now,but wouldn't it have been quicker and easier to have just drilled and reamed it on a pillar drill?
hezmeister 1 year ago
@hezmeister roughing out with a drill in the tailstock would have been faster too, i don't think speed was the point in this case.
felderup 1 year ago
SupermaxCNC, you can easily measure ID with calipers and with the help of micrometer you can get accurate results down to 0.01 mm accuracy. Been there, done that for living.
If your calipers have a flat face in the jaws then I suggest buying real calipers.
JaakkoF 1 year ago
@JaakkoF If calipers did not have a flat on the ID jaws they would be razor sharp which would be a poor choice in design do to issues handling and durability. Calipers work OK at larger diameter but when you get this small it will measure off by as much as a couple thousandths which if you are making something that needs to be within high tolerances, like a bearing fit, will cause you to go oversize.
FWIW, all my calipers are real. Mitutoyo and Swiss made SPI.
SupermaxCNC 4 months ago
You know a "billet" never leaves the steel/aluminum mill? "Billet" is a term that sales guys like to throw around.
You should not use calipers to measure I.D. The ID jaws have flat faces and will give you an undersize reading. Get a good set of telescoping gauges at the very least.
SupermaxCNC 1 year ago
Good stuff !!!
colb31415 2 years ago