@andrew0901280 Hi, actually we did heat the graphite mould very high, literally red hot in another test-- the main issue is that the graphite doe snot retain the heat well at all. Within 30 seconds it had cooled back into the grey colour and cause the silver to slush-up once hitting the bottom of the mould.
If you check-out the next video where we use steel mould, you will see how important the retention of heat is for the mould and the difference it makes. I prefer the steel 100x over graphite.
I am curious what the advantages of buying from you guys would be? You say that all your pure bullion is from pure silver rounds from other mints in the US and all over the world? So do we still really know where our silver comes from and its authenticity if you guys are simply melting down other mints bullion? Sorry for the questions but I need to be sold on this. What you asking for those 20 oz bars by the way? I am local as well just so you know. Thanks!
@charronfamilyconnect Hi, very good question. What we do is recycle silver that has already been used for its primary purpose, vice mining and refining which can both be very environmentally damaging. It is true that we can not tell you the exact mine from where the silver came, but we can tell you the exact mint where it was originally produced.
Also we are local guys, so you would be supporting local business and the growth of such--would love to turn it into a local staple!!
@charronfamilyconnect Hi, those are 10 ounce bars roughly, they vary, but as they are a test batch we are selling at spot + $0.49/ounce, plus $9.99 expedited shipping with insurance and tracking anywhere in CAN or US. Ottawa locals we can discuss as shipping not required.
Feel free to shoot me a message anytime, and all the best,
@BuchanBullBullion Hi Jim, Thanks for the reply &honesty! Okay so if I buy from you guys,my local silver recycler, who could I sell the bullion back to afterwords? Do you buy back bullion like a typical bullion dealer does,or do you simply cast pure bullion rounds into bars or custom casting as well from what I read?Just curious, & do yhou have some certification with the bullion assocations or whatever they call themselves? How do I insure that the bullion I buy from you can be sold elsewhere?
@charronfamilyconnect No problem at all, I would always buy-back as long as my cash-flow would allow, I also purchase/trade/sell other label bullions, but we are not technically a bullion bank. I am currently researching associations, but am still a bit unclear where exactly I fall, so a bit more work needs to be done on my end.
This bullion is really created for a secondary market, but I do hope to build some brand recognition, and welcome anyone to drill/slice into one of the bars and test.
@gasdorf Hi, it is heated with propane so not too bad, but it is a cost that needs to be factored into production.
I do not run across many fake coins at all, but I use mostly the same few supplier for everything and have a good and long relationship with them--very important!
I have though come across fake coins on occasion from clients, or ebay, obviously the worst for fakes are Pandas, but the Buffalo Silver rounds are pretty common fakes too.
@brown1806 interesting, I may look into it. I think we will be using steel and cast iron from now on for moulds, and I have been given some great advice by a fellow youtuber with regards to coating the cavities.
I would wonder though about the burning point of cooking oil as I think it is pretty low and we are up in the 1000s of degrees.
Thanks a bunch for your input, always wanted and appreciated!
hey, I have an idea (maybe dumb-maybe novel), why not make the lettering molds deeper (to hold 10+ ounces of silver slugs) and use the molds as furnace melt pot/s, then you wouldn't need to pour with temperature differentials...just bake, take out and let cool.
@AccuracyMarked That is a pretty interesting idea, one issue may be that our slugs are usually 0.6 ounces, so would not fit in a cavity too uniform.
We have been working on the new moulds for a while, and I think they will make a big difference, they are in high-temperate stainless steel(which will retain the heat very well), and are a closed design where we will pour into the top and the liquid silver will channel down to fill each cavity.
We are leaving these moulds blank, and will hand stamp.
Don't understand why the bottom lettering didn't come out? Are you saying it needed to be "higher" and "wider" texting? If there's letters in the bottom of your mold that are readable..it would makes sense the molten silver would capture any sized micro lettering. Did the silver slush up before it hit the lettering? Had your mold cooled down too much for lettering to be visable? I'm lost why the lettering didn't show. also, how easy was it to knock those out of the mold? any tricks there?
@AccuracyMarked Yeah, I think it was a heat problem, or lack of retention, although we did on pour with a torch positioned on the mold the entire time. The way they came out almost looks like air gets caught in the lettering, and the silver slushed up too quick.
Another youtuber, warned me that the lettering would not work when he say the mould, and he was 100% right. Could be that they were too thin, but a heat issue I think.
Knocking them out was super easy, just flip the mould, no adhesion.
@BuchanBullBullion Oh, I should mention that we were using engraved lettering, so when it came out it would have came out as raised lettering on the bars. The silver was not flowing well into the lettering carve-outs.
If we had raised lettering in the mould, to create an impression in the silver it may have come out differently.
@Alexiscom1 Thanks Alexis, it was a lot of fun, and I really think that we are miles ahead of where we were a month back...the new moulds will be a game changer I'm hoping. Sorry about the length, maybe should be broken into a few different videos. If you want to see some just let me know, a few were pretty good.
@nmreich Thanks, or I guess to see how not to do it ;-> . We are learning as we go and I hope these videos can help others learn with us, plus who doesn't like looking at molten silver???
You guys have balls, man that looks dangerous. Maybe wear faceshields in case something bad occurs and some leather welding aprons.
What was the problem with the lettering inside the mold? The bars pulled them off, or were they just not deep enough? Everyone but RCM seems to hand stamp, I guess.
Thanks for showing the process and progress, it would have been cool to be there with you.
@2011rcm Thanks! Safety is #1 for sure, why I keep mentioning the danger of thermal shock, but my partner is a long-time caster and very experienced, we are just new to silver casting.
There were a few things wrong with the mould, it maybe was not hot enough, or would not retain the heat well enough, so the ag turns to slush before filling the lettering.
We did try pouring with a propane torch on the mould the entire time, but not any better(I couldn't tape that one as I was holding the torch).
CAN U DELIVER THEM TO INDIA AND WATS THE COST PER OUNCE
saheb1four3991216496 6 months ago
I bought bar G13 from batch #2. Any idea when you'll run 5oz bars again?
Bill
dboy6400 11 months ago
@dboy6400 Hi Bill,
Firstly thanks for your support of our bars. I am very pleased to say that each of our first 5 batches sold-out within days.
We are planning pour #6, another 5 ounce pour, for next Saturday April 9th.
All the Best,
Jim
BuchanBullBullion 11 months ago
i wonder if you heated your mold if it would help with the vaccum bubbles because it would cool slower
andrew0901280 11 months ago
@andrew0901280 Hi, actually we did heat the graphite mould very high, literally red hot in another test-- the main issue is that the graphite doe snot retain the heat well at all. Within 30 seconds it had cooled back into the grey colour and cause the silver to slush-up once hitting the bottom of the mould.
If you check-out the next video where we use steel mould, you will see how important the retention of heat is for the mould and the difference it makes. I prefer the steel 100x over graphite.
BuchanBullBullion 11 months ago
I am curious what the advantages of buying from you guys would be? You say that all your pure bullion is from pure silver rounds from other mints in the US and all over the world? So do we still really know where our silver comes from and its authenticity if you guys are simply melting down other mints bullion? Sorry for the questions but I need to be sold on this. What you asking for those 20 oz bars by the way? I am local as well just so you know. Thanks!
charronfamilyconnect 1 year ago
@charronfamilyconnect Hi, very good question. What we do is recycle silver that has already been used for its primary purpose, vice mining and refining which can both be very environmentally damaging. It is true that we can not tell you the exact mine from where the silver came, but we can tell you the exact mint where it was originally produced.
Also we are local guys, so you would be supporting local business and the growth of such--would love to turn it into a local staple!!
Thanks again,
Jim
BuchanBullBullion 1 year ago
@charronfamilyconnect Hi, those are 10 ounce bars roughly, they vary, but as they are a test batch we are selling at spot + $0.49/ounce, plus $9.99 expedited shipping with insurance and tracking anywhere in CAN or US. Ottawa locals we can discuss as shipping not required.
Feel free to shoot me a message anytime, and all the best,
Jim
BuchanBullBullion 1 year ago
@BuchanBullBullion Hi Jim, Thanks for the reply &honesty! Okay so if I buy from you guys,my local silver recycler, who could I sell the bullion back to afterwords? Do you buy back bullion like a typical bullion dealer does,or do you simply cast pure bullion rounds into bars or custom casting as well from what I read?Just curious, & do yhou have some certification with the bullion assocations or whatever they call themselves? How do I insure that the bullion I buy from you can be sold elsewhere?
charronfamilyconnect 1 year ago
@charronfamilyconnect No problem at all, I would always buy-back as long as my cash-flow would allow, I also purchase/trade/sell other label bullions, but we are not technically a bullion bank. I am currently researching associations, but am still a bit unclear where exactly I fall, so a bit more work needs to be done on my end.
This bullion is really created for a secondary market, but I do hope to build some brand recognition, and welcome anyone to drill/slice into one of the bars and test.
BuchanBullBullion 1 year ago
@BuchanBullBullion you heat bill must be expensive ...this is interesting video ...do you run across alot of fake coins ?
gasdorf 1 year ago
@gasdorf Hi, it is heated with propane so not too bad, but it is a cost that needs to be factored into production.
I do not run across many fake coins at all, but I use mostly the same few supplier for everything and have a good and long relationship with them--very important!
I have though come across fake coins on occasion from clients, or ebay, obviously the worst for fakes are Pandas, but the Buffalo Silver rounds are pretty common fakes too.
In my written blog, I address this topic.
Thanks
BuchanBullBullion 1 year ago
+1 for Canadian made silver, I'm looking forward to see what your products evolve into.
captainmoe 1 year ago
Try using cooking oil, I seen some videos using this techinque,
brown1806 1 year ago
@brown1806 interesting, I may look into it. I think we will be using steel and cast iron from now on for moulds, and I have been given some great advice by a fellow youtuber with regards to coating the cavities.
I would wonder though about the burning point of cooking oil as I think it is pretty low and we are up in the 1000s of degrees.
Thanks a bunch for your input, always wanted and appreciated!
Jim
BuchanBullBullion 1 year ago
hey, I have an idea (maybe dumb-maybe novel), why not make the lettering molds deeper (to hold 10+ ounces of silver slugs) and use the molds as furnace melt pot/s, then you wouldn't need to pour with temperature differentials...just bake, take out and let cool.
AccuracyMarked 1 year ago
@AccuracyMarked That is a pretty interesting idea, one issue may be that our slugs are usually 0.6 ounces, so would not fit in a cavity too uniform.
We have been working on the new moulds for a while, and I think they will make a big difference, they are in high-temperate stainless steel(which will retain the heat very well), and are a closed design where we will pour into the top and the liquid silver will channel down to fill each cavity.
We are leaving these moulds blank, and will hand stamp.
BuchanBullBullion 1 year ago
ummmmmmm silver .....
quadcatfly 1 year ago
Don't understand why the bottom lettering didn't come out? Are you saying it needed to be "higher" and "wider" texting? If there's letters in the bottom of your mold that are readable..it would makes sense the molten silver would capture any sized micro lettering. Did the silver slush up before it hit the lettering? Had your mold cooled down too much for lettering to be visable? I'm lost why the lettering didn't show. also, how easy was it to knock those out of the mold? any tricks there?
AccuracyMarked 1 year ago
@AccuracyMarked Yeah, I think it was a heat problem, or lack of retention, although we did on pour with a torch positioned on the mold the entire time. The way they came out almost looks like air gets caught in the lettering, and the silver slushed up too quick.
Another youtuber, warned me that the lettering would not work when he say the mould, and he was 100% right. Could be that they were too thin, but a heat issue I think.
Knocking them out was super easy, just flip the mould, no adhesion.
BuchanBullBullion 1 year ago
@BuchanBullBullion Oh, I should mention that we were using engraved lettering, so when it came out it would have came out as raised lettering on the bars. The silver was not flowing well into the lettering carve-outs.
If we had raised lettering in the mould, to create an impression in the silver it may have come out differently.
All the best,
Jim
BuchanBullBullion 1 year ago
Jim, I admire your courage to start this business. Thanks for showing the melting process that was very informative.
Alexiscom1 1 year ago
@Alexiscom1 Thanks Alexis, it was a lot of fun, and I really think that we are miles ahead of where we were a month back...the new moulds will be a game changer I'm hoping. Sorry about the length, maybe should be broken into a few different videos. If you want to see some just let me know, a few were pretty good.
All the best,
Jim
BuchanBullBullion 1 year ago
Very nice! It's great to see how it's done!
nmreich 1 year ago
@nmreich Thanks, or I guess to see how not to do it ;-> . We are learning as we go and I hope these videos can help others learn with us, plus who doesn't like looking at molten silver???
All the best,
Jim
BuchanBullBullion 1 year ago
You guys have balls, man that looks dangerous. Maybe wear faceshields in case something bad occurs and some leather welding aprons.
What was the problem with the lettering inside the mold? The bars pulled them off, or were they just not deep enough? Everyone but RCM seems to hand stamp, I guess.
Thanks for showing the process and progress, it would have been cool to be there with you.
2011rcm 1 year ago
@2011rcm Thanks! Safety is #1 for sure, why I keep mentioning the danger of thermal shock, but my partner is a long-time caster and very experienced, we are just new to silver casting.
There were a few things wrong with the mould, it maybe was not hot enough, or would not retain the heat well enough, so the ag turns to slush before filling the lettering.
We did try pouring with a propane torch on the mould the entire time, but not any better(I couldn't tape that one as I was holding the torch).
BuchanBullBullion 1 year ago