Added: 1 year ago
From: dnortunen
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  • @mwatson04 - PS, the tire tanks we've seen have all had concrete bottoms, but were NOT moved. Don't know if that would work for portable tire tanks or not. Maybe dnortunen will tell us.

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  • I'm interested in how you made your water tanks out of the old tractor tires. What did you put on the bottom to seal it up? Also, how did you seal it around the fill and drain pipes? Seems like a possible option for us being we've got plenty of old tires sitting around.

  • @mwatson04 id like to know as well

  • @mwatson04 - In case you still need the info, concrete is poured to make a bottom for the tire tanks. Silicone calk (like used in aquariums) can be used to seal edges & around fill & drain pipes. Some have concerns about chemicals that might leach out of old tires. Others say the material is pretty inert. Used whiskey /wine barrels cut in half, with a float valve & quick refill, will water a lot of animals in a MIG system where animals are nearby. Fresh water & 0 chemicals!

  • @mwatson04 I'm sorry I thought I had replied to this earlier but can't find it. In case you are still wondering, I started with a tire and cut out the sidewall on one side. I then measured the circumference of the bead and then had the local steel shop cut a piece of steel this size. Then I laid the steel on the bead of the tire and drilled holes through the steel and rubber and put bolts through them. Then just put silicon around the perimeter where the steel meets the rubber.

  • @dnortunen I never did seal it around the fill and drain pipes. I used a 3/4" drill bit to drill the holes and used 3/4" pipe and it fit so snugly I had to pound the pipe in with a hammer and it never really leaked after that.

    I have 10 big (8' diameter) rubber tire tanks that have cement bottoms in them but they are permanent and not meant to move around. I have seen cement bottom smaller tanks that have hooks in the cement so that they can be lifted with a tractor and moved.

  • I love the watering piping system that you have set up here.... can you tell me more about it? The pipe, connections etc... are they a particular brand? That is one of the easiest looking that I have seen.

  • @SebagoLakeRanch

    My line is a 1" line and at the time the 1" "T"'s from powerflex were backordered. To get around this I used 1" to 3/4" reducers and a small piece of 3/4" pipe and then connected an extra 3/4" "T" I had to it. It was just a workaround and now it goes directly from a 1" pipe to the 1" T.

    I had a friend who tried the new Powerflex and he doesn't like them near as much as the older version. Hard to line up the cotter keys through the 2 holes you have to drill in the pvc post.

  • nice work!

    Have you ever discussed the varieties of grass you use in your padocks? I would be interested to hear if you system favours diferent varieties than a rotational system

    thanks

  • @geniusmasterclass

    Long term high density grazing will bring in warm season grasses and generally more varieties. I have not done it long enough or well enough actually to see much difference since I've started. We have been in a drought the last 4 or 5 years and its taking awhile for my paddocks to recover from that. In general though, I like brome the best but we have timothy, reed canary, quack, june, orchard and meadow fescue as well as some ryegrasses.

  • @dnortunen thanks for the reply, i am a member of an internet forum called the British farming forumwhere all agricultural matters are discussed, there is a thread on there about mob grazing if it is of any interest to you

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