Added: 3 years ago
From: dionbremner
Views: 82,380
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  • I realize they say flux is not required, but if you added flux, it would really penetrate and flow much better.

  • Does anyone know what it's made of? it's not aluminum. Zinc solder?

  • The c,(G) clamp take heat away, so you need to put more in

  • Is this ment to be funny. Cus I was laughing good job though

  • I found 1/4# on ebay for sale in the states

  • i thinks its funny how he said how to do it. "put a little on, clean it again, then put on the final weld" then goes on to just glob it on then complain about it..lol yes it was his first time and he was learning by do and finaly figures it out. but still he said how to do it. then 30 sec later he just throws it out the window, then complains about it..lol just thought i would point that out it was funny to me. nice video did you do any to see how strong it is? keep up the good work

  • great video thanks

  • Hey Mate. Here in the States we have this little anagram RTFM. If you went to the Durafix site to buy the rod it boggles my mind as to why you did not read the plainly posted instructions on how to use said rod. Please read "HOW TO BRAZE ALUMINUM WITH DURAFIX ROD." Take note that it clearly says to heat the part until the rod flows without the flame. I will allow you to read the rest. And by the way you are using MAPP gas that is a form of acetylene not butane. Some peoples children!!

  • yeeah you can do it, burn brush wood

  • pretty girl

  • you no have idea about welding

  • I learned from the Technoweld Aluminum welding video that you have to scartch the aluminum surface with the Durafix rod for your melt to blend in. Durafix or Technoweld will not penetrate the thin transparent aluminum oxide layer on its own.

  • all i hear is rods this and durafix that, iis this a fuckin condom comercial, haha , no but on a serious note oxy acetylene does work for this application.

  • Comment removed

  • Although it is called Aluminium brazing or solder it is most likely AL802 which is 1.5 - 2.5% Aluminium 97.5% Zinc. Hence the weld appearing stronger than the base Aluminium because Zinc has a greater shear modulus than Aluminium. A nice product.

  • @luckyskua You're right. It's simply a zinc alloy sold a lot of times highly overpriced. You can get the Welco 52. Very useful for repairing and non structural joints. 

  • This guy has no fucking idea ....

  • Good on ya mate for having a go and daring to post a video of yourself trying something for the first time. It's good to see what can go wrong and why. It helps others to understand how it works and what to look out for. I'm definitely thinking of getting some of these rods. . . . And as usual there's plenty of "Experts" keen to point out what you did wrong. Must be great to be so perfect that you can master everything straight away. . . .
  • @hairyalien thanks mate - appreciate the positive feedback! It's all good though. These rods are a good product but as people have pointed out there are better ways to use it. I'll just go back to my tent...:)

  • @dionbremner

    One more thing.

    When you said that you should have left the clamp on as you turned it over - did the weld on the other side melt and fall off, or did it just liquify but stay in place?

    Also where did you buy the rods from?

    So far I've only seen them on the durafix website, but haven't checked any of my local welding suppliers/hardware stores.

    Cheers.

    .

  • @hairyalien I did have trouble with the weld falling off. But the clamp acting as a heat sink made me have to heat the whole thing up too much. So it's important to heat the base material quickly.

    I bought the rods from durafix - I haven't seen them elsewhere either.

  • @dionbremner

    mate you have to have the material at least 730 degrees before the rod will flow

  • this guy is a camper go pitch a tent lol

  • 300 usd buthane lather...

  • Dude.Thats not how you aluminuim weld!!Heat the Metal not the rod&adjust your flame properly.Too much wanking causing this type of welding!!

  • haven't you seen the Durafix adds? They say "do not heat on the rod"... "heat near the rod". the hot plate will met the rob. If you apply heat on the rod, the rod becomes brittle.

  • how about a repair on an aluminum boat? I bet that would be much harder. I cant believe he didnt think of that?

  • Give us a look at the backpack frame you made from aluminium

    using them rods.

  • dude , first you need to use a smaller tip for a steady control ..& .to concentrate the heat only to the area that needs to be weld not hte whole plate , also reccommend to start from the corner edge ....so it heats faster .......easy stuff ...

  • It is MAPP gas, (Bernz-o-matic color codes their cylinders, yellow is MAPP, blue is Butane) Significantly hotter than propane or butane alone. The trick with Durafix is to heat the base to 730deg F  and then rub the rod on the surface - it will melt slowly. If you heat the rod itself it will crumble. Cheers

  • Correction, Blue is Propane, Red is 02.

  • @jbestell Good comment.. but can you use durafix on an aluminium boat? to repear a seam that leaks?

  • @richmansteve

    Yes you can, just be sure NOT to do this like guy...clean it up good and go nuts!

  • Hate to say it - that looks a lot like MAPP gas, and as far as I know, that's got quite a bit of acetylene in it...

  • ROFL!!! He doesnt have a clue what he is doing HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

  • Why didn't you blokes reshoot this once you figured it out?

  • Next time let the bird do the instructing.

  • you did okay i guess, but i agree you can't use the clamp cause its aluminum the clamp pulls to much heat. also get the flame closer and then when you braze it pull the flame back.

  • He says you can't use acetylene then he picks up an acetylene map gas torch.

  • Idiot, can't believe how stupid this bloke is...

    Hang on, think it was me.:)

  • He uses a Butane gas torch.

  • @OGJD1984 you heard him wrong. he said setaline gas is a bad idea. if you've ever used a setaline torch, setaline itself burns really dirty, you get all theses nasty black flakes before you put the oxygen to it.

  • @FueledByTyeler Setaline???? No such gas,, Your probibly thinking of accetelyene. Used for soldering or in connection with oxygen for welding mild steel or cutting.

  • MAkes me want to grab that torch out of his hand!!!

  • I feel sorry for you the demo and review was so bad I want to buy 1 rod to help you out. Use a smaller clamp so you do not draw so much heat out of the material learn to use the tourch better cancel this video and try again.

  • haha you soo remind me of Michal Scott

  • The hottest part of the flame is the end of the blue tip. Turn down your flame it's just wasting gas.

  • he's using the wrong torch tip and coldest part of the torch is the end of the flame. you have to use the little blue flame in the flame to quickly heat the metal

  • Saludos desde México. Si alguien está interesado en probar una de estas varillas tengo algunas que me gustaría vender. Saludos.

  • ...(CONTINUED)..and the beads (not flow) that formed did not stick (despite prior cleaning with steel brush). the adverts shown here are not the reality (or are very misleading). Whether this welding rods are a scam, no one knows for sure (only for its producers).

  • How much gas do you have to apply just to get a tiny worthy weld? If someone wants to weld many joints of a metal structure would it not be a waste of gas fuel and expense just trying to get the base metal material 'hot enough'? It's claimed that at 732 degrees fahreinheit the durafix rod melts. I kinda doubt it; I tried using this durafix rod to 'weld' aluminium joints using propane gas fuel for over 15 minutes ...

  • mycampgear; Hi; I learnt (from previous video viewing) that the Aluminium welding rod should not be put directly into the gas flame for a good weld to occur, (I saw you put the distal end of the aluminium rod into the gas flame); probably a reason why you aint getting the 'good' welding initially.

  • Very good. The stuff is great and works. It just takes some practice to get it right. Looking forward to seeing some of your projects you've built using it!

  • That stuff aint cheap 30 english pounds + packaging on Ebay for just 10 rods

  • That stuff aint cheap 30 english sterling + packaging on ebay

  • This video was better for the mistakes. I am looking to make an aluminium frame for a sack trolley type project. The trolley needs to be lifted in and out of vehicles, and although robust does not need the strength of a steel frame.

    So this looks to be the solution to me - there is nothing high tech here.

    That he melted his weld and it ran out, or discovered the clamp acted as a heat sink and prevented the metal heating up quickly -

    Amateurs are using this vid - they make these mistakes & learn

  • Terrible man..

    You did it all wrong, sorry.

  • Thanks for encouragement man! At least we had the work place health and safety sorted...:)

  • You are quite welcome. I did learn that the hard way. *snicker*

  • The clamp was acting as a heat sink. This is why it took so long to heat the metal enough to have the welding material drop into the crack. I would put the clamp farther away from any weld you are attempting or have a weighted pin holding it in place like jewelers use.

  • Thanks for that - great tip.

  • ok... you suck.

    i am pretty sure i could do better. give me that torch so i could fix my aluminum bike frame!

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