i use regular W&N oil paints but i let them sit on some scrap card for a bit before i use them.it will leach out the linseed oil so your wash will dray quicker .maybe modeling oil paints have less linseed oil in not sure .but winsor & newton oil paints do the exact same job come in more colours and are cheaper .
@Brainleaf74 Well are you talking about Winton range or Artists range? The Artist range has some expensive color, especially cadmiums. The're master paints though, Winton range is for students. And I agree with you, standart oils do their job more than great, 502's are made to be used for weathering
@UnityCZ i have a load of the Winton range from when i used to do oil paintings .if you get the right colours its the same thing .think il pick up some artists pigments they still aren't cheap but you get a lot more for you money .not sure what the ones for plaster are like but you can buy that by the kg lol
I'm trying the oil paint and turps washes for the first time. I'm finding that the pigments aren't always dissolved properly and a brush stroke leaves soild clumps of pigment within the clear turps from the stroke. I'm using good quality artists oils from the local arts supply shop. Not sure what I'm doing wrong... So far I'm tending to find the acrylic washes easier to handle, but of course they dry quickly and can't be cleaned up as well afterwards.
@tbelcher01 I've never had it that bad but I suspect these things: 1) your oil paint, even Winston which is an amateur art grade oil has larger pigments so they'll separate from turp quite quickly. 2) The surface - I had the same problem once applying oil paint on a gloss varnished surface. The surface was too smooth so the pigments just couldn't adhere to it. 3) what kind of thinner do you use? I've never had any problem with 3 types of turps that i've used (minieral/pure gum/citrus)
@tbelcher01 I really suggest that you bring your oil paint and turp back to the art shop and demonstrate to the guy and he will hopefully be able to tell you what's wrong, as I don't know what brand of paint/turp you use. Also, I assume that you varnished your surface prior to apply oil wash, otherwise you could grab a small bottle of satin varnish and apply that first, then try again.
From my exp, well thinned oil wash should dry a tad faster than acrylic wash (if applied thinly and avoid pooling) Probably depend on the type of diluent you use (I heard that odourless thinner dry slower, but never tried yet). Really hope you can find a solution to this - if you want to take a few photos and tag me on facebook, please do.
@nuclealosaur Thanks for that reply. I am using a medium-price oil, artist's turps (as opposed to mineral turps) and a gloss varnish prior to the wash. I'll look at all your suggestions and report back. But I noticed your brand of paint in the video - MIG Abteilung - and googled it. They claim to be made especially for this sort of wash/weathering. I think I'll get a tube and try it out. Artists' paint and modelmakers' paint are formulated differently - sometimes that makes all the difference.
@tbelcher01 The difference bw Winston and Albeitlung is quite big in terms of the fineness of the pigments. Get a tube and you'll love it. Also - gloss varnish doesn't suit this purpose since it provides no texture for pigments to adhere to. All the best!
@nuclealosaur My order for the 502 Abteilung tubes has gone off. Should be here in a couple of days. But that's an interesting point about the varnish. With acrylic washes we want the varnish to stop the pigment adhering to most of the surface, so that the shadow is produced by the dark wash pooling in the low points of the fig. Is that not the case as well when we're using oils? Or is there a real difference between gloss and satin/matt varnish?
@tbelcher01 Once I painted a theenzh herald with screamers pulling the disc-chariot and I wanted a gloss finish so I used gloss varnish and oil afterward - what happened was the pigments just sat there and stained the surface. I think the difference bw oil and acryl wash is that oil wash don't tend to pool in the same manner. At least that's just me. So that's why I reserve the use of acry wash on faces and sometime fabric.
@tbelcher01 Not sure if this will help but I do that oils require a specific kind of brush; not your standard brush that you would use with acrylics. Synthetic?!
@tbelcher01 Not sure if this will help but I think that oils require a specific kind of brush; not your standard brush that you would use with acrylics. Synthetic?!
ok me i dont like it and if tack your minis with you to paint like did over last thankgiving well you cant bring on a plain thes day you cant bring flambull stuf yes thare nice butt i stik with watterbas its safer that whay thanks ok thind out black or brown whosh butt must and do it your self (&dark grren) i might canseter so thin that runs thew the craks HUUUMMM get some emtea botels and i have to expement to gat it right to plain safe
ok god tip butt oil a bich and you have toneeds time to dry 2 you cant bring it enny whare on a plain yes its FLAMABULLL 3 water you get out the tap you must get the thing agent blank_______ at a spechel store hard whare or craft if i ues oil its smail amonts and in mataliks and i still dont like it thats just me thanks
@redgreen09 - Actually, it doesn't take that much longer for the turp to dry to the touch than normal wash. I think you meant distilled water? Btw, don't worry about turp being flammable, I use it all the time near a lighter that I use to burn plastic bitz with and it's not as if it's going to catch on fire and burn immediately! Just give it another try, maybe change your turp and maybe you'll like it!
@Generalsplatton Yes, that's the best feature of oil paint IMHO. You can add more paint, mix it til you like it on the surface, if you change your mind then dry your brush and dab the paint off from the surface, give it a soft wipe with more turp and you can start it over (just need to be careful that the surface is varnished sufficiently) PS - I was talking to you before I went to bed... now I woke up and getting ready for class.... weird to think that there are many time zones in the world
@SPBTooL I think you can, but what I like about oil+turp is that you can fix up stains and wash marks easily afterward. Thanks for brining this up, if I have time I'll experiment and record the differences
Good job, very informative, easy to understand. The model looks good. Maybe some close ups of the effect oil has on the surround areas and how to clean them up a bit. Good video, I hope to see more from you soon.
What did you use to waterdown the oilpaints? whats the ration you use? also can this be use with acrylic paints? Thanks for the video man! awesome tutorial
i use regular W&N oil paints but i let them sit on some scrap card for a bit before i use them.it will leach out the linseed oil so your wash will dray quicker .maybe modeling oil paints have less linseed oil in not sure .but winsor & newton oil paints do the exact same job come in more colours and are cheaper .
Brainleaf74 2 months ago
@Brainleaf74 Well are you talking about Winton range or Artists range? The Artist range has some expensive color, especially cadmiums. The're master paints though, Winton range is for students. And I agree with you, standart oils do their job more than great, 502's are made to be used for weathering
UnityCZ 2 months ago
@UnityCZ i have a load of the Winton range from when i used to do oil paintings .if you get the right colours its the same thing .think il pick up some artists pigments they still aren't cheap but you get a lot more for you money .not sure what the ones for plaster are like but you can buy that by the kg lol
Brainleaf74 2 months ago
Thanks and by the way great job on them.
deadheadbl 5 months ago
Who puts out that miniature? Also a cool tip don't not think to use oil paint as a wash.
deadheadbl 5 months ago
@deadheadbl These are made by Forge World
nuclealosaur 5 months ago
I'm trying the oil paint and turps washes for the first time. I'm finding that the pigments aren't always dissolved properly and a brush stroke leaves soild clumps of pigment within the clear turps from the stroke. I'm using good quality artists oils from the local arts supply shop. Not sure what I'm doing wrong... So far I'm tending to find the acrylic washes easier to handle, but of course they dry quickly and can't be cleaned up as well afterwards.
tbelcher01 6 months ago
@tbelcher01 I've never had it that bad but I suspect these things: 1) your oil paint, even Winston which is an amateur art grade oil has larger pigments so they'll separate from turp quite quickly. 2) The surface - I had the same problem once applying oil paint on a gloss varnished surface. The surface was too smooth so the pigments just couldn't adhere to it. 3) what kind of thinner do you use? I've never had any problem with 3 types of turps that i've used (minieral/pure gum/citrus)
nuclealosaur 6 months ago
@tbelcher01 I really suggest that you bring your oil paint and turp back to the art shop and demonstrate to the guy and he will hopefully be able to tell you what's wrong, as I don't know what brand of paint/turp you use. Also, I assume that you varnished your surface prior to apply oil wash, otherwise you could grab a small bottle of satin varnish and apply that first, then try again.
nuclealosaur 6 months ago
From my exp, well thinned oil wash should dry a tad faster than acrylic wash (if applied thinly and avoid pooling) Probably depend on the type of diluent you use (I heard that odourless thinner dry slower, but never tried yet). Really hope you can find a solution to this - if you want to take a few photos and tag me on facebook, please do.
nuclealosaur 6 months ago
@nuclealosaur Thanks for that reply. I am using a medium-price oil, artist's turps (as opposed to mineral turps) and a gloss varnish prior to the wash. I'll look at all your suggestions and report back. But I noticed your brand of paint in the video - MIG Abteilung - and googled it. They claim to be made especially for this sort of wash/weathering. I think I'll get a tube and try it out. Artists' paint and modelmakers' paint are formulated differently - sometimes that makes all the difference.
tbelcher01 6 months ago
@tbelcher01 The difference bw Winston and Albeitlung is quite big in terms of the fineness of the pigments. Get a tube and you'll love it. Also - gloss varnish doesn't suit this purpose since it provides no texture for pigments to adhere to. All the best!
nuclealosaur 6 months ago
@nuclealosaur My order for the 502 Abteilung tubes has gone off. Should be here in a couple of days. But that's an interesting point about the varnish. With acrylic washes we want the varnish to stop the pigment adhering to most of the surface, so that the shadow is produced by the dark wash pooling in the low points of the fig. Is that not the case as well when we're using oils? Or is there a real difference between gloss and satin/matt varnish?
tbelcher01 6 months ago
@tbelcher01 Once I painted a theenzh herald with screamers pulling the disc-chariot and I wanted a gloss finish so I used gloss varnish and oil afterward - what happened was the pigments just sat there and stained the surface. I think the difference bw oil and acryl wash is that oil wash don't tend to pool in the same manner. At least that's just me. So that's why I reserve the use of acry wash on faces and sometime fabric.
nuclealosaur 6 months ago
@tbelcher01 Not sure if this will help but I do that oils require a specific kind of brush; not your standard brush that you would use with acrylics. Synthetic?!
baptiste154 4 months ago
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@tbelcher01 Not sure if this will help but I think that oils require a specific kind of brush; not your standard brush that you would use with acrylics. Synthetic?!
baptiste154 4 months ago
ok me i dont like it and if tack your minis with you to paint like did over last thankgiving well you cant bring on a plain thes day you cant bring flambull stuf yes thare nice butt i stik with watterbas its safer that whay thanks ok thind out black or brown whosh butt must and do it your self (&dark grren) i might canseter so thin that runs thew the craks HUUUMMM get some emtea botels and i have to expement to gat it right to plain safe
redgreen09 6 months ago
ok god tip butt oil a bich and you have toneeds time to dry 2 you cant bring it enny whare on a plain yes its FLAMABULLL 3 water you get out the tap you must get the thing agent blank_______ at a spechel store hard whare or craft if i ues oil its smail amonts and in mataliks and i still dont like it thats just me thanks
redgreen09 6 months ago
@redgreen09 - Actually, it doesn't take that much longer for the turp to dry to the touch than normal wash. I think you meant distilled water? Btw, don't worry about turp being flammable, I use it all the time near a lighter that I use to burn plastic bitz with and it's not as if it's going to catch on fire and burn immediately! Just give it another try, maybe change your turp and maybe you'll like it!
nuclealosaur 6 months ago
I like the idea of more ability to manipulate the paint, nice job!
Generalsplatton 6 months ago
@Generalsplatton Yes, that's the best feature of oil paint IMHO. You can add more paint, mix it til you like it on the surface, if you change your mind then dry your brush and dab the paint off from the surface, give it a soft wipe with more turp and you can start it over (just need to be careful that the surface is varnished sufficiently) PS - I was talking to you before I went to bed... now I woke up and getting ready for class.... weird to think that there are many time zones in the world
nuclealosaur 6 months ago
@nuclealosaur LOL I hope you do well mate. I will be getting some oils soon. I plan to be using them on tanks and stuff.
Generalsplatton 6 months ago
Would it still have the same effect to thin out acrylic paints, with water of course? Or do the oil paint work better because of their translucency?
SPBTooL 7 months ago
@SPBTooL I think you can, but what I like about oil+turp is that you can fix up stains and wash marks easily afterward. Thanks for brining this up, if I have time I'll experiment and record the differences
nuclealosaur 7 months ago
Good job, very informative, easy to understand. The model looks good. Maybe some close ups of the effect oil has on the surround areas and how to clean them up a bit. Good video, I hope to see more from you soon.
Stay frosty.
18F4V 7 months ago
@18F4V Thanks man - some close ups pics can be found on my fb page
nuclealosaur 7 months ago
Quote of the day "Better stop this video before it becomes another GW bash" XD
Nice video about alternative washes! With the way things are going, alternatives materials are always welcomed!
LazyPugPro 8 months ago
Nice tutorial vid. No problem understanding you . Please keep them coming they are informative and useful .Thank you .
TheSeasonman1 8 months ago
What did you use to waterdown the oilpaints? whats the ration you use? also can this be use with acrylic paints? Thanks for the video man! awesome tutorial
an00bisRa1 8 months ago