Added: 2 years ago
From: GitarCarl
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  • Longer connection with the string through body allows more transferance of the vibration of the strings into the body. That is how sustain works.

  • great look to that guitar

  • i'll bet the tone from that heap sux a fat one! you cant possibly tell me it dont when you have that many pieces to the body! that and you play like a confused asshole.

  • Hey, Quick question about then neck, I just bought a guitar neck from GFS and i noticed that the hight from the body to the fret board was allot higher then my other guitars I own, I think I noticed In the video you had this same thing, did this cause and issues for you when where adjusting the bridge? Or where you just able to rase the bridge and had no issue?

  • @rockout7190 The neck height didn't cause any issues for me and your situation will probably work out OK. Think if the height from the body to the fretboard was really short. You would have to shim the neck up a lot at the end (where its deepest into the body) and lower the bridge as low as it would go. In this case the neck is high, so you may need less shimming or even no shimming to get it at an angle so that the bridge can be in the middle of its vertical adjustment range.

  • Very nice. Sounds great and it sounds like you can play some basic stuff just fine.

    Inspiring... I want to try some of those GFS singles.

  • How did you get the body to be so perfect and clean?

  • very awesome guitar! im actually gonna make my own,LP style with Gibson rock pickups

  • what kind of glue was used???

  • @illKillYouRAWR I used yellow carpenter's glue because the gluing surfaces are large and the stresses are then relatively low. For a set neck guitar, hide glue is best to put the neck on the body. For an acoustic guitar, I think hide glue is used to put the body together...

  • @GitarCarl Muchos Gracias

  • @illKillYouRAWR

    hi Budy, really nice video, congratulation, may you can check on our youtube chanel, bye

  • please check ot the guitar i made on my youtube page, made it for a school project and would like opinions!

    cheers

  • Ah very nice! You know this video helped me alot because i am building my first homemade guitar out of similar types of wood, and now i know that its going to sound awesome once i hook it up to my marshall! Thanks a bunch!

  • wait....you used pine? wtf??

  • ohh soo this is the finsihed version not bad my friend not bad

  • that looks like a older marshall amp is it great sounding guitar i want to make one except i wana les paul style body got any tips

  • I love the neck and middle settings! Especially the middle.

  • hey man, nice axe! next time before u glue the top together, plane the sides with a large block plane simultaniously if you don't have a joiner. that way they will fit together nicely w/o all that extra glue in the joint. as i always say, a nice joint (or two) improves the tone of any instrument.

  • i love the finish you put on it

  • Question!!! I have seen on alot of videos, that for the base of the guitar they glue either 2 or 3 peices of wood together. Is that nessasery cant you just get one big thick piece of wood????

  • @mikesewell2008 You sure can use a big piece of wood. On ebay you will find many one-piece strat and tele bodies. Any guitar about that size could be made from a single piece of wood. But its cheaper to glue smaller pieces together.

  • sounds really good

  • I liked the way you sayed "and the big thick maple cap" lol

  • looks great. if you put more time in to clear-coat it, it would look worlds better. and it's not too late

  • @Anitrop Yes it would look better, but it has some flaws in the wood/construction, and that's all it takes to discourage me from attempting a great finish job. Also I don't mind different-looking or beat-up finishes (think of Lennon's stripped Casino, or SRV's and Rory Gallagher's guitars). Finally, I am lazy, so when I want to see a fantastic finish I just look at a Hamer USA!

  • you know ... to say you used pine it sound pretty nice lol!!! i was quite amazed not bad dude

  • nice sounding guitar, you did it well!

    I want to build a hard maple top guitar too, but I dont know what kind of wood should I combine whit. I dont want mahagony, cause I heard it cuts the upper mids.

    maybe basswood is a good choice?

  • @pmAhavasi It depends on the thickness. Les Paul maple cap is about 1/2 inch thick so it dominates the mahogany back. However a thin maple veneer would be for looks not for sound. On the other hand, Angus Young gets a nice clear sound with enough treble for my liking from a 100% mahogany guitar. On the other other hand I have a Dean EVO that is 100% basswood. Its not bright but its not bad either.

  • @GitarCarl

    thanks for your answer!

    I want a bright guitar, so I think of a combination like les paul (hard maple top dominates), but instead of mahagony I think using basswood, its a little brighter than mahagony, so the end result will be a brighter guitar than a les paul, if im correct.

    I have a 100% basswood guitar now (Ibanez grg170) It sound nice, but I want a brighter guitar.

  • umm what power tools did you use? ... cuz im thinking of making my own guitar (proud owner of 3 store bought ones) is there any way i could do this without a bandsaw or router? ... because im living in the middle east at the moment and power tools aren't the biggest hype here...thnks :)

  • @eerahman I used a router, drill, bandsaw and 1/3 sheet sander. Without those... body shape could be cut using a series of straight cuts with a handsaw, and then lots of hand sanding. Pickup and control cavities could be cut with hammer and chisel. Hand drill for small holes. Good luck!!!

  • Do you sell guitars? I'd probably buy one off of you if it's not too expensive :D

  • Good job, but I think you could have a better wood than pine for the back. I do admire how you made do with the router, because I assume you don't have a planer. Good job man!

  • @BlueMacGyver Yes the pine is not much of a tonewood in this case. It fills out the body without being too heavy, and it adds a little darkness to the super-bright tone of the maple. Thanks for the router comment, no I don't have a planer. My mistake was buying wood that was very rough-sawn...

  • @GitarCarl Do you think maple and mahogany would work out good ? also great job on the guitar sounds really nice

  • @Gagemonki maple top with mahogany body = gibson les paul and a host of clones so yes it could work out very good. However I find les paul guitars too heavy so i went in a different direction.

  • @GitarCarl I actually didnt know that,What would you use for a body besides maple also how much were youre pickups just curious because they sound nice but Im probally gonna put some EMG 81`s in mine,thanks

  • nice man

  • How much did this guitar cost in total?

  • @gjk1994 Lets say about $200. I had the neck and tuners from a pawn shop guitar I bought 20 years ago for under $100, but these days you can get it much cheaper on ebay. The body wood was about $50 with shipping and the pickups and parts were under $100. As for tools the sky is the limit, but I tried to not buy any tools for this particular project.

  • bad ass guitar

  • awesome guitar

  • I like it! Good job on that!!

  • looks good buddy

  • love it.

  • This is totally bad ass. Keep up to great work!

  • where did you get your Bridge Pickup? i can only find the neck pickups. thanks

  • I got both off ebay, but maybe now they are out of stock on the bridge pickups. Drop Jay a line he's a good guy.

  • just wondering what kind of tone cap and volume youve got in there,sounds nice and bright...........

  • Its 250k volume pot without a tone control, so there's no cap. Its very bright mainly because of the maple neck, fingerboard, and 3/4" thick maple top. The pickups are pretty bright too.

  • when i become a senior in high school next year i might make a custom bass for my senior project if it doesnt take forever. how much will it probably cost?

  • If you do it like I did by cannibalizing an existing guitar or two then the cost can be as low as the wood and paint and new strings. If you add pickups that'll raise it to at least $60 even if you use GFS or other inexpensive pickups. If you go all out and try to make a professional grade instrument the parts will be at least $200 and the finishing will be a painstaking exercise. Good luck!

  • @GitarCarl ok thanks man! yea its going to be super tough but i would buy the neck definitly but i might do this i cant think of anything else to do haha

  • couple of pieces of advise for you, first of all i would stay away from pine in guitar building. Secondly, when you laminate your bookmatched set, you used a board mdf or melamine or something. the board will warp, but if you use a 1x4 with a jointed edge, then you can clamp it on edge(one on top and one on bottom) in three or four places. i find this eliminates the need to flatten by planing after.

  • Yeah, I used pine because its light and cheap and it darkens the bright pingy sound of that 3/4" maple cap and maple neck and maple fretboard. I wouldn't use it in every situation.

    About the 1x4, do you mean like a giant nutcracker?

    Please post some guitar building videos, sounds like you have some experience we could all learn from.

  • i spelled advice wrong oops.. I'm not sure what type of nutcracker you refer to, but it sounds about right. A sheet metal cutter without the cutting is the same idea, except in several places, perpendicular to the joint.

  • the guitar i built i'm holding in my display profile picture i'm current building a star with a Jackson like neck . only a day and 1/2 only thing i need to do is paint it i'm using FULL curly cherry for the body. killin dried i'm thinking of painting it yellow on the base and black crackle so u u can see the yellow through the cracks sorta vintage like 1800"s

  • thats just for the body

  • now i know what ur talking bout surface is really rough,but 1ce u get it under the planer it gets better ,also when u go to a wood mill .take a curving knife or utility knife shave a piece off the side board that u want. look at the wood grain if it's at ur liking then u'll know . i never read any books on building a guitar ,i watch and try things to make it better and faster surface planer,joiner planer ,router and drill press with robo sander longer drill bit ,and very fins sand paper

  • no it's not the same as planing,because if u have a 24 inch planer u can plan the surface completely level. you can ,also get the board at 4inches thick and plane it down to 2" to really make the grain stick out trust me of u get a planer the only thing you'll wanna route is around the body.The pickup's,The pot spot ,neck spot etc.... ur gonna go threw alot of bits if u route the surface now for a 13 " planer which i use ryobi i got at sears for 300 bucks best investment i have ever made.

  • Oh 1 more thing i also use a surface plainer to get the wood to show out more.

  • Can you help me understand getting the wood to show out more? I got the top pretty level with the router on a jig and then sandpaper, so isn't that about the same as planing? (I didn't have a planer.)

  • Sorry i didn't realize everybody's different. I know what you mean.I did that a lot when i first started then over time I got way more steady using the router. If you're used to your way then do it like that ,because router is a little hard to get used to .i used to build counter tops all the time that's why It's easy for me.

  • You should buy from the saw mill ,so u can see the wood up close, also your last video you showed cutting the body with a band saw. Easier way make a template first then plunge route less sanding then use a surface plainer for the whole body that also eliminates most sanding basically you'll be left with little sanding :)

  • Hey masterxbill, I kinda agree with all your points. However rather than go to the saw mill, I have since found that most ebay sellers do a real good job of planing the wood. I must have picked a bad one for that maple. Also I have started another project using the template and router, but being unaware that routers work best with shallow passes I managed to do a poor job with that too. I'll make or fix the template and try again.

  • Nice work but pine is a horrible instrument wood. In terms of the industry, you'd never see it used due to being loose grain, spongey, low psi tolerance, poor resonance qualities etc.etc.

    But, I suppose it worked!

  • Yes, perhaps it works more because of the hardwood core and maple top than because of the soft pine. However the pine sure makes it light. Come to think of it, loose and spongey describes my playing style!

  • It's probably not as big a deal as I made it, just specifically a wood that you couldn't get away with if you had a floyd rose due to the pressure on the posts.

    It's also a laminate which helps.

    I've seen many, and owned a few, guitars that were flat out plywood like you see used in house construction and plenty of them sound just fine.

  • Tell THAt to Squier, who are making their Vintage Vibe series strats & teles from pine!!!

    I wouldnt use it either but...

  • LMAO

    DUDE, they're made from Indian Red Cedar, NOT pine. While some cedars are weak as pine, it's part of the MAHOGANY family. Indian Red is a very good hard wood but cheap and inexpensive.

    Most the woods used on Asian produced guitars of any brand are very cheap because they're the foreign strain of American hard woods making them somewhat exotic but VERY cheap.

    You see all the quilted tops these days?

    They're actually "cousin" trees being used making them fancier looking at 1/10 the cost

  • You sure? I read a bit about them and the Tone King did a review of the Squier CV Tele and he stated it was made from pine.

    Its possible he was mis-informed.

    Cheers!

  • Check with any retailer carrying them or even just call Fender's Squier brandh yourself. They'll research about any question you ask and even started using those 2 point floating trems after I talked with their VP of product development a few times some years ago.

  • Thats good to hear.

    I know Fenders quality is 2nd to none.

    UNLIKE Gibson these days!

  • I always say this.

    90% of the guitars built today, Fender, Gibson, Ibanez, Jackson, Washburn, Martin, Takimine etc.etc.etc. are built by CNC machines. Human hands do almost nothing to them. Off brand guitars, CNC robots. CNC even paints them.

    Want a guitar from an independent luthier?

    A lot of them use CNC's to do most the work too. Hard to get a bad guitar these days. The thing about hand built is, they tend to eliminate the common design flaws commercial brands won't bother with.

  • Yeah true, Im in the process still of making 2 bodies to replace 2 customised copies from Australian Red Gum slab. WHAT a wood and the timber will BE the centrepiece cps of its colour & figuring.

    Its extremely hard and dense. Should sound ok but will sustain for DAYS!

    So much good cheap stuff from China too these days. The old days of the cheap n nasty copy guitar is gone.

    Even the cheap pickups, sound good and actually resemble what theyre modelled on!

    CAN'T lose!!!

  • I agree completely.

    The materials have always been cheap and the process relatively inexpensive even when it was guys in a machine shop doing everything by hand.

    I'm wrapped up in a hundred projects but, building my first body is on the list and about 25% complete.

    The good thing is, decent hardware is pretty cheap on ebay and boutique pickups have sets you can win brand new for as little as 10 bucks in auction and they're every bit as good as overpriced name brand.

    All my guitars are Asian!

  • I agree, Guitar Fetish have doen a great service in this regard.

    I am going to get a set of their Neovin noiseless Tele p/ups for a tele kit i am getting.

    CAN'T go wrong!

  • very nice... really good job...

  • hay you relly know what your doing can you take a look at my work in progrees and give me som tips

  • Hi

    nice guitar

    can i ask u a question?

    i have an old italian electric guitar, i think i can replace the old pk with some like yours, would you give me all the measures of the pk?, i mean the part that come outside of the pickguard, not the size of the plate with the holes(this one are on gfs site)

    thanks for all

  • Pretty close to 72mm by 28mm. Good luck with your project!

  • thanks for the info

    keep in touch

    mike

  • There is a dvd out on Amazon A Complete Custom Electric Guitar and it has preview on YouTube.I think you would like this.Great guitar.

  • Nice work! Very "Ric" sounding.i

  • the only problem i see with this, is that the string thru, there isnt any eyelets (i think they call them that) on the top of the guitar (well that i can see) i recently got a 2nd hand guitar ( like my 6th guitar/bass haha!) and it is stringthru (the only one i have) and one of the eyelets where missing, and one of the strings was cutting thru the wood (about 3mm tho, not much) and so i put a bit of metal in ther to stop it, did you get this problem?

    anywho, great guitar

  • Hey thanks for your question! There isn't a problem with no eyelets on this guitar because the strings go diagonally through the body. So, there is not much force pressing the string into the side of the hole on the top. On the back the string balls sit on a hard block of maple or birch, so there are no eyelets or ferrules on the back either.

  • thats great to hear, because that was the only bad thing about the string thru guitar i have, not only did it look bad having a string cutting thru, but it also went out of tune easy, and that string sounded strange... but hey, the less extra bits needed the better, looks nice without the metal insert things i think

  • that top is beutiful, maple?

  • Yes, big leaf maple from Oregon I think.

    It was a thick slab about 3/4" thick when I was done planing it.

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