@wlai It is just shorthand for degrees per side. Me2 on KnifeTests first starting using it talking about his regrinds. It is a nice and useful way to shorten descriptions of knife edges so I am going to pretend to be clever and imagine I came up with it.
Are you just eyeballing/estimating the angles when you regrind blades, and measure them with a protractor when you are done? Or perhaps you measure them intermittently as you are grinding?
Do you ever secure the blade (vise or clamp) and grind it until you have an exact angle?
I'm just trying to figure out how you get the edge and bevel angles exactly how you want them.
@Chumgeyser I know what I am aiming for in general due to past experience and having measured the angles. I regrind until I think I am close and then stop and check. No, I don't use jigs, you really need to though if you want sell anything as otherwise you are very likely to get variances which could ruin the aesthetics. Just look at me2's pictures and see how crisp his grind lines are compared to mind. He jig grinds and they end up looking machined they are so even.
Nice video Cliff... would you ever consider taking the edge closer to, or all the way to, the handle? Unless you put a choil there, which I wouldn't personally want, it seems like wasted unsharpened metal.
@Chumgeyser They are typically left that way argued to be a last ditch safety factor in case of a slip, but I can not see that having any real purpose/practicality because it is so small and it isn't like it will stop your hand. If this blade proves to be solid and I don't have handle issues I intended to grind a choil there as I do use an over hand grip (thumb on spine) quite a lot.
@micktheweld With both of them NIB it is essentially bat vs a sword in a cutting contest. Even after resharpening, with the single bevel so abrupt at 20 degrees I would argue for per personally the performance is actually greater than the price ratio in favor of the Junglas in terms of effort, fatigue rate, and ease of sharpening. Cutting ability is also much greater, more than 3:1.
@CliffStamp I'm assuming nearly all the difference comes from the design and not the steel? I believe the Junglas is 1095 while the CS Machete is 1055. If the steels were reversed would it make any difference in your estimation?
@Chumgeyser Yes, the only advantage to the 1095 is that it has a slightly great wear resistance over 1055 but quite frankly I don't see how that is of benefit on blades of this size unless you are not using them for wood work. If you were using them to process large fish or similar work then the abrasion resistance maybe of benefit but it would take a long and extended comparison to measure the difference.
@micktheweld The chopping ability in term of cut count is the only thing that is similar, but fatigue will cripple the comparison as the Junglas is just much more fluid in the wood. The Junglas also has a much more durable handle and much more functional/durable sheath (if you ignore the effect cold has on Kydex). But, if you have power equipment and apply a primary grind to the machete then it is a different thing.
@micktheweld Ironically, that was exactly the blade I intended to run this modified kukuri machete against after I rerun it against the Fiskars. The machete is longer with a much more versatile grind (three distinct cutting regions) and it only took me 30 minutes to regrind it fully (I put another ten minutes on it to make all bevels 6.5 dps) and did not even use up one 36 grit belt (so $0.50 maybe in abrasives).
@mccullenj That is a 36 grit AO belt. I am satisfied for now with the edge thickness produced but the primary edge angles should be much more acute. There is no reason it should be above 3-4 degrees in the cutting region next to the handle, and it should be no more than 5-6 in the chopping area. However after 20 minutes of grinding I had enough of that and wanted to get back to using it. I will likely do a more extensive regrind after another few sessions of use.
love the video, but what's dps??
wlai 1 month ago
@wlai It is just shorthand for degrees per side. Me2 on KnifeTests first starting using it talking about his regrinds. It is a nice and useful way to shorten descriptions of knife edges so I am going to pretend to be clever and imagine I came up with it.
CliffStamp 1 month ago
Are you just eyeballing/estimating the angles when you regrind blades, and measure them with a protractor when you are done? Or perhaps you measure them intermittently as you are grinding?
Do you ever secure the blade (vise or clamp) and grind it until you have an exact angle?
I'm just trying to figure out how you get the edge and bevel angles exactly how you want them.
Chumgeyser 1 month ago
@Chumgeyser I know what I am aiming for in general due to past experience and having measured the angles. I regrind until I think I am close and then stop and check. No, I don't use jigs, you really need to though if you want sell anything as otherwise you are very likely to get variances which could ruin the aesthetics. Just look at me2's pictures and see how crisp his grind lines are compared to mind. He jig grinds and they end up looking machined they are so even.
CliffStamp 1 month ago
Nice video Cliff... would you ever consider taking the edge closer to, or all the way to, the handle? Unless you put a choil there, which I wouldn't personally want, it seems like wasted unsharpened metal.
Chumgeyser 2 months ago in playlist Knife Restoration/Regrinding
@Chumgeyser They are typically left that way argued to be a last ditch safety factor in case of a slip, but I can not see that having any real purpose/practicality because it is so small and it isn't like it will stop your hand. If this blade proves to be solid and I don't have handle issues I intended to grind a choil there as I do use an over hand grip (thumb on spine) quite a lot.
CliffStamp 2 months ago
I wonder how this would performance against the junglas Cliff. Merry Xmas .
micktheweld 2 months ago
@micktheweld With both of them NIB it is essentially bat vs a sword in a cutting contest. Even after resharpening, with the single bevel so abrupt at 20 degrees I would argue for per personally the performance is actually greater than the price ratio in favor of the Junglas in terms of effort, fatigue rate, and ease of sharpening. Cutting ability is also much greater, more than 3:1.
CliffStamp 2 months ago
@CliffStamp I'm assuming nearly all the difference comes from the design and not the steel? I believe the Junglas is 1095 while the CS Machete is 1055. If the steels were reversed would it make any difference in your estimation?
Chumgeyser 2 months ago in playlist Uploaded videos
@Chumgeyser Yes, the only advantage to the 1095 is that it has a slightly great wear resistance over 1055 but quite frankly I don't see how that is of benefit on blades of this size unless you are not using them for wood work. If you were using them to process large fish or similar work then the abrasion resistance maybe of benefit but it would take a long and extended comparison to measure the difference.
CliffStamp 2 months ago
@micktheweld The chopping ability in term of cut count is the only thing that is similar, but fatigue will cripple the comparison as the Junglas is just much more fluid in the wood. The Junglas also has a much more durable handle and much more functional/durable sheath (if you ignore the effect cold has on Kydex). But, if you have power equipment and apply a primary grind to the machete then it is a different thing.
CliffStamp 2 months ago
@micktheweld Ironically, that was exactly the blade I intended to run this modified kukuri machete against after I rerun it against the Fiskars. The machete is longer with a much more versatile grind (three distinct cutting regions) and it only took me 30 minutes to regrind it fully (I put another ten minutes on it to make all bevels 6.5 dps) and did not even use up one 36 grit belt (so $0.50 maybe in abrasives).
CliffStamp 2 months ago
What grit belt did you use?
mccullenj 2 months ago
@mccullenj That is a 36 grit AO belt. I am satisfied for now with the edge thickness produced but the primary edge angles should be much more acute. There is no reason it should be above 3-4 degrees in the cutting region next to the handle, and it should be no more than 5-6 in the chopping area. However after 20 minutes of grinding I had enough of that and wanted to get back to using it. I will likely do a more extensive regrind after another few sessions of use.
CliffStamp 2 months ago