The strength of metal is partially dependent on the temperature of the metal. The hotter you get the con rod the lower its tolerance to breakage becomes. The cooler running rod will have a higher tolerance but that doesn't make it indestructible.So obviously breakage can occur without the hear, only breakage is more probable to occur faster if heat is added into the equation.
Its funny because you call stuff old wives tales, and that even though its though to be Common knowledge you say its wrong, you say Racers are idiots, nobody seems to know anything but you. Yet you FAIL to prove anything. You say you are right and I am wrong, and that's its not a matter of opinion, but fact, well show us those facts, prove it, as Ive already asked you to do, but you just dodge the call out, and ramble on some bullshit.
Just cause some jackass on the tube says something is fact, doesn't make it so. So please stop avoiding it, Ive repeatedly asked you to show something, prove something, yet you just run your mouth avoiding it. Chump move....
Fine PROVE it then. If your so positive that rpm is the only factor and fuel, & temp etc is NOT rellevant at all, PROVE IT. So far you just run your mouth. However if your saying its fact, Prove it.
For a lousy $300USD I can run these engines until they explode. I say we do a little scientific experiment, but you guys will need to put your money where you mouth is, each of you send me the $300 on pay pal and I will refund the winner. If they do a full tank of gas at full revs then Tobinator wins if they blow Assassin wins. Anyone else want in on the action? :)
Could have, but unfortunately what would probably happen is the engine would more than likely just overheat and seize. For the sake of argument, how many rods have you broken? lol
@Tboninator I havn't broken any, but apparently I should have! Yes the video would be less than spectacular visually. I personally think the HPI engine would go the distance. They are pretty tough. I have seized a near new Traxxas but I think it was too lean too soon, and it was actually on the grass to be clear. I had the throttle jam open on a couple of cars and they were very hot by the time I got them back but I am still using the engines so no "obvious" damage. There is a video.
First and last motor I burnt out was years ago, and it was a 2.5 T-Maxx. Was driving it around my back yard and rolled it, knocking the coupler on the exhaust loose. It had a couple gallons of fuel through it and I was looking to upgrade, so I just let it go as I finished off the tank. After it cooled, it seized. Inside was torn up pretty bad, but hey, at least I didn't break a con-rod. Hahaha...
Cont'd.......Also he tried to claim it will break a con-rod; he later started saying WOT, and is now agreeing with me on over-revving being the issue, but still thinks lack of lube, fuel, and friction are factors, when its simply inertia at high speeds causing con-rods to break, not necessarily anything else. He more or less argues that you can run an engine at any RPM past the maximum safe range as long as its cooled well enough and has enough fuel/lube. lol
He went spouting off about how running a nitro vehicle with wheels off the ground is no load (however, its low load, not absolute lack of load- rotating mass from drive train and tires provides a load just as a fly wheel on a full size engine would) is all around bad for it. He said because of lack of load, the engine somehow runs lean, even with a proper tune, and how it doesn't get enough lubrication.......
So, what is the bottom line, ya little douchebag? RPM. Repeat that to yourself a couple times. The only reason it is not recommended to run a model engine with little load is how easy it can be to reach unsafe RPM. Fuel, load, temperature are all non issues. Con rods break from excess stress. The only stressor would be RPM. This is very basic shit, and it would behoove you to learn it.
More like you need to learn how to speak English. I said the issue was from revving too fast etc, cry me a river with your blah blah bull shit. Mr Mopar Man, Yawn at these squibbles...
No, as a matter of fact, you didn't. If you had actually said that, or even explained, accurately, what is occurring, I would not have had a single problem with what you said. Believe it or not, I would rather be doing something else other than arguing with some kid who takes his toys too seriously. BTW, I don't know why you're calling me Mopar Man- even though I'm a Chevy guy, I don't see how that's supposed to be insulting.
Yeah, as a matter of fact that what Ive been saying the WHOLE time. Blipping the throttle or letting it idle on a stand is not the same as holding WOT, as Ive explained holding WOT with no load causes the engine to rev too fast & starve it of fuel as its running with less load than it was designed for. That meas it will rev, faster, and past the point where the engine was tuned for making it rev lean, get hot and this causes a higher stress on the con rod,
and could lead to breaking the Rod, SOOO it is NOT smart to go WOT with the wheel off the ground. I never say its a problem to idle off the ground or blip the throttle off the ground, just that its not wise (smart) to hold WOT wheels off the ground....
No shit it's not the same, and no, that is not what you've been saying. And how does it starve the engine of fuel? It may not supply as much fuel, but it is in no way starving the engine of fuel. If that were the case, no manufacturer would recommend breaking their engines in on a stand or with the model off the ground.
That's what Ive been saying dipshit, over and over, get a life. Umm revving too fast doesn't starve it of fuel? Moron, NO manufacture recommends going WOT with it on the stand, big difference between idling through a tank and going WOT moron.
Wow, your are mentally disabled, too stupid to understand how revving faster than it was tuned for will lean it out. You must be retarded. The lack of load allows the engine to rev faster then it was intended to and tuned for if you hold WOT, moron.
It doesn't lean out. The pipe will only allow a certain percentage of exhaust out, that's how it builds up pressure. As you speed your air pump up (what an engine of any kind is at its core), you increase pressure in the exhaust. That pressure increases the amount of fuel being pushed into your engine. The higher RPM, the higher the fuel flow. It doesn't magically taper off at maximum RPM and higher, therefore it is irrelevant in regards to the topic at hand.
As for being lifeless, we have discussed this as well. You're spewing garbage, I'm setting it straight. You have no need to post, yet you continue because you have some unfounded pride that you simply won't ignore. As long as you continue to spread this trash, I will continue to correct it. You want it to stop? Either educate yourself or shut up.
No, you're right, no manufacturer recommends it, for the simple reason that it's too easy to over rev and damage the motor. I could put it up and open it all the way up until it starts to reach max RPM, then back off. That wouldn't hurt it at all. Holding it would. See the difference?
And my old Savage .25 did not call for idling save for one tank, the rest required quite a bit of throttle input. You'd think if it was bad for it, they wouldn't recommend it.
Here's another question, that you will undoubtedly ignore, and reply with nothing but petty insults like the child you are: if low load starves the engine of fuel, what would happen if you were driving on a smooth, level surface, maintaining speed- would that then starve the engine of fuel and lubrication?
So, here's another lesson for you: even though the backpressure in the exhaust system is lower than when under load, it still provides adequate fuel to the engine. An engine with little load requires less lubrication and fuel than one under heavy load. The main cause to overheating in these engines is friction. Less stress means less friction, meaning less lubrication is needed to compensate.
As I've said the whole time: only danger is RPM, no other factors.
I really couldn't care less about your lessons, you need to realize stupid, I never said picking the wheel off the ground or blipping the throttle with them off is a problem, moron... Its only a problem if you hold wot and rev too fast dipshit. Revving too fast wouldn't be as big a deal if there was more lubrication, less friction, less heat, less stress. You really think your giving out lessons??? Your a idiot fighting to get the last word on a youtube argument...
I'll keep posting after you just to show you can't stop, you act like its me fighting for it, but you don't seem to walk away, maybe its time you practice what you preach.
Running the engine with the wheels off the ground = broken con-rod. Not necessarily true. You've occasionally mentioned WOT, but WOT does not mean sustained throttle. I can go WOT for a second and run it up to speed, and let off to sustain max RPM. That will not break a con-rod.
Max RPM has nothing to do with friction, heat, or lubrication. ONLY STRESS. There are forces being applied to the materials that they were not designed to handle past a certain RPM, at which point they come apart or break. No amount of lube, lack of friction, or cool temps would save that. So really, who's the idiot? The one speaking truths and setting shit straight, or the one continuing to argue against factual information, refusing to let go of being right?
I disagree with you, I believe that RMP has much to do with friction, heat, and its directly related to lubrication, all of these are contributing factors in the "Stress" on the rod IMO, if you disagree, good for you, I don't give a shit, I only reply when I get a pop up in my email box saying you can't give up until you drop the last word...
Lubrication assists in achieving high RPM. Little lubrication = more friction = more power required to increase speed. However, since we know that the engine does not starve itself at speed, as backpressure is ever increasing, therefore fuel feed is ever increasing, we know that lubrication and fuel are not factors in failure at speeds outside of the safe RPM range. The engine can fail cold or hot. That rules out temp.
Like I said, You can think and preach what you want, I don't give a crap. Revving too fast as you can with the reduction in load lifting the wheel off the ground revs faster then the engine was tuned for and gets there quick. Revving faster then intended means Less fuel = leaner mixture making more power with less lubrication, This combined with the friction of revving faster then the engine was intended and the heat from the fast revving lean mixture generates heat FAST
This all is more stress then you want on your on Rod. Hell racers are known to replace con rod after just breaking in the engine, just because of the added stress breaking in the pinch has on the con rod. You might run your truck pig safe rich, but mine are running on point and aggressive,
That leaves stress as the only remaining factor. It is true that lack lubrication and high or low temperatures can increase these stresses, but are not issues when dealing with the failure of a properly tuned and maintained engine. Apparently you don't realize how fast 30-40k RPMs and higher really is, and the way the metals stretch and deform at those speeds, or how already tight tolerances become even tighter until parts weaken and give out or collide.
I too will continue to post every time I see "Reply from AssassinTuning" in my inbox, because I hate misinformation, and feel obligated to correct it so that others may witness solid, factual information and know what they can and cannot do, and WHY. You will keep posting based on pride and to claim you're right. I'll continue to post for accuracy.
Sweet, lets see how long we can go back and forth on this, PLEASE feel obliged to run your mouth like a idiot every chance you can, show you must have a real busy life with so much Moparing going on. I have to post because I'm allergic to your bull shit Mr Mopar
Though I do love Mopar, I'm mainly a Chevy guy. Already said that too. I'd say repetition is the key with you, but I've said everything dozens of times and it still hasn't stuck.
How do you justify the engine leaning out at higher RPMs? What causes that? All the important variables would indicate that is not the case, but please, since it must happen, what causes it?
Yeah, okay there Mr Mopar, That's my name for you, and it's not gonna change. Ive repeated myself enough times already to keep at it. So if you can't figure it out. Sucks to be you Mr Mopar Blah blah king.
I asked a question, are you going to answer it or ignore it like every other one? Because you have a lot of claims and statements, but no rationale for them. Now that you're not even on the same subject, it seems you're probably just going to post simply for the last word, not even to defend yourself. That's even more pathetic than it was before.
Not going to repeat myself anymore because a brain dead guy on youtube can't understand. What is this ground hog day? Ive repeated and repeated myself. If YOU who have failed to show anything to back your claim yet you change what your saying half way through. I say revving too fast can cause damage, you say over revving can cause damage. re you really so stupid you can't see they are the same thing. Fucking Tool!
Hooray, more childish, petty insults. Insults and anger do not convey your point. They just show you're incapable of debate.
Finally catching on, aren't we? Revving too fast does damage the engine. The first, truthful, factual thing you've said this entire time.
Just so we're clear, you do understand now that the RPMs and the stresses associated with them are the only factor in engine failure, correct (at this point, that's more what this argument is about)?
Dumbass Ive been saying revving too fast is the issue from the start, are you really that stupid? Don't act all righteous like you haven't been tossing out insults right back. Get a life Tool!
Not nearly to the extent you have. Your insults can be found in every post... Your ignorance, and Hell, your arrogance, is astounding.
You've been spewing loads of garbage about how running the vehicle off the ground will starve the engine of fuel and lubrication, and how damaging it is- and it simply isn't true. Every time I ask you to explain how you justify your claims, you flat out ignore it. I have a feeling that's because you know you're wrong.
It don't matter, ohhhh you said more insults than I, don't matter, if you toss em out your have no business whining about them coming at you after. Dude you are unbelievably thick headed. Ive been saying from the beginning going WOT wheels off the ground gets you revving too fast, revving too fast (or "over revving" as you put it) accompanied by all that comes with revving too fast with the wheels off the ground is a great way to snap a rod. Are your serious????? Get a Life Tool!
You're the one complaining about carrying on an argument, while carrying on an argument, and doing nothing but throwing out insults and bitching about being right. I'm merely pointing out that your insults are over used and out of context. Like getting a life? My responses do not indicate one way or another, as it only takes seconds. What are your grounds for assuming I have no life? You're doing the same, the only difference is you're both wrong, and an idiot.
lol ahhh are you getting upset? Sounds like it. I simply refuse to repeat myself and continue to bite. You are a sad sad idiot, and only idiots like yourself who realize they have been a fool (you really couldnt understand revving too fast and over revving are the same thing, what a idiot) now your trying to run your mouth to cover your tail as you admit revving too fast does indeed kill engines, only your a idiot and think that revving too fast and over revving are different.
So idiot, to put it simple, "Over revving" the engine or "revving too fast" is stress your engine doesn't need, and with no reason to "over rev" the engine, whats the Point????
Bahaha... Oh God this is rich... Its clear this whole dispute has gone way over your head. Your initial posts were quite a bit more than simply stating "over revving" or "revving too fast" is bad. There is no confusion on my end that they are the same thing. The real issue is you don't realize the factors involved with engine failure. Broken con-rods at RPM are due only to stress caused solely by RPM, while you try to claim there are other factors at work.
Ah hahahahah This has all been over your head. I knew it. All the confusion is o your end, no surprise, you are an idiot after all. The issue is you don't realize the factors involved with engine failure. Broken con-rods are due to revving too fast and all that comes with it with the wheels off the ground....
So are you admitting that the engine does not run lean when not under load, and that lack of lubrication and heat are not the causes of con-rod failure in a properly tuned engine wrapping out above it's maximum safe RPM?
So you are admitting that revving faster then the engine was designed for, with less back pressure from running with the wheels off the ground creates a over revving engine running leaner then tuned for at higher revs then the engine was designed more friction, heat and stress on the engine leading to engine failure?
No. A properly tuned engine will not run lean, regardless of load or RPM. Evidence of this is you never see an over revved engine stalling out, and you always see plenty of smoke from the exhaust. Friction and heat are not not necessary factors involved when a rod lets go. An engine with an will bust a rod even with an infinite amount of cooling and lubrication/lack of friction at RPMs beyond safe speeds. You can thank inertia for that.
Unfortunately this isn't about opinions. I can handle willfully ignorant, just can't handle those who don't care, trying to spread their ignorance to others.
Prove it then... Naw you won't because your just blowing smoke out your ass. You say its fact heat plays no role, you say its fact that over revving will not lean out the mixture, and the only factor in engine failure is RPM. Cool, Prove it.. Hurry up already. Ive called you out to prove it a few times, but you just dodge it. Prove what you claim as fact.... What, you can't? No surprise....
Assassin, don't come on here and expect people to provide proof when you've got absolutely no proof of your own. All you've got are claims, and a vague quote of some FAQ somewhere that simply says not to do run the model off the ground at all with no explanation as to why. I've got claims, AS WELL as sound logic and a very healthy background in mechanical engineering and engine building. Don't be so upset about it. You've found someone you can't fool. Sorry.
Seriously, Fuck You. I post some comment as I am free to do so. You have the ability to live your life and go about not nit picking over BS on youtube, BUT YOU choose to hound me fighting to prove me wrong, BUT for you to prove me wrong, you have to PROVE me wrong. You have not proved anything but you ave the ability to run your mouth. So IF you want to show me up as being so wrong, PROVE IT OR STFU
Dipshit! I already said, you can have your opinion, and I can have mine, I don't give a fuck about you admitting anything or care to "prove" you wrong. It is YOU that are on a mission to prove me wrong.... And claim what you say is FACT, well PROVE it already, Mr Mopar... Soooo you're not going to bother to provide proof of your claims, which contrast greatly with reality, and the physics involved with these toys. You just run your mouth like a little bitch...
That being said, provide me with some legitimate, specific evidence that proves your claims of 1) an engine being starved of fuel at speed with low load, and 2) lack of lubrication/fuel, high friction, and heat are all necessary to break a con-rod at RPMs beyond the designated safe RPM range. I'd bet that you can't do that. As a matter of fact, I know you can't, but I'd bet you won't even try, just as you haven't tried to carry on a rational debate.
You'd think that since I'm not the only one to point out your stupidity to you, you'd acknowledge this and move on, but alas, I guess that is the whole point of being stupid, right?
Also, racers have been known to be fools. In every motor sport there are myths and superstitions in many people's setups that they believe increase performance. Just because they've been known to replace rods doesn't mean there is necessarily any advantage to it. Until they can prove it there is with exact measurements between a freshly broken in rod, and an unused rod, and have performance numbers to prove performance increase, it remains a useless tactic.
Also, you're putting just as much time, if not more considering your previous arguments/posts with others, into this, which makes me question why you are telling me to get a life. You're the one who spread misinfo, and you've also wasted more time, so whats up?
Now that we know that we can now exclude that as a factor, because if heat played any significant or immediate role in this situation it would be be even more prevalent while driving the vehicle.
Load or no load, the engine will sufficiently supply itself with fuel. When you mention heat, you fail to realize that an engine under load generates more heat than one without. The causes for this are increases friction and stresses between components as well as hot, lingering gases as they are not expelled as quickly.
You really haven't a clue, "Assassin". You have bluntly stated that running the engine at all with the wheels off the ground will destroy it, occasionally throwing WOT into the mix. The only danger is running the engine at a speed higher than it was designed. You can do this driving the vehicle under the right conditions. Thats right, the sole factor is RPM.
I NEVER once stated just from lifting the wheels off the ground was a problem at all. Its actually not a problem, unless you hod WOT, that's why I kept repeating WOT over and OVER, even stating OVER and OVER its when holding WOT it revs too fast, get a life Punk.
I can get quotes from multiple sites explaining, DON'T ReV up with the wheels off the ground because it will break a con rod. You simply talk shit, but that's it, you blah blah your credentials as if they mean something to me. So what you rebuild engines, So have I, so what, that shit is irrelevant. Fact of the matter is, you can't do much but talk shit.
Running the engine or the vehicle with the wheels off the ground does not necessitate engine failure and this act alone is not necessarily bad for the engine. All your pseudoscience about heat and lack of fuel is bogus- the only danger is from ease of over revving the engine, absolutely nothing else. As long as you don't exceed the maximum safe engine speed, there really is no worry save for extended running with no airflow.
Ummm I have to say Holly shit. Buddy, you need some help. Maybe you got small penis syndrome or something. But your "over revving" Hmmm you wouldn't happen to do that if you hmmm say, held WOT wheels off the ground, would you??? Ohh and ""Over Revving"" as I put it revving too fast, That wouldn't lean out the engine would it??? Hmmm over revving leaning out engine, that doesn't ""necessitate"" engine failure does it....
I'm having a good little chuckle over here. :D What is the danger of ""over revving" the engine Mr Mopar??? lolololololoolol Sorry if "revving too fast"" wasn't as clear as ""over revving"" Funny as Hell!!!!
And again, you are having issues with projection. No one here is talking shit but you. I've provided you with countless arguments based on logic, provided in various manners, while you've done nothing but try to discredit me with claims of being a "nobody in the nitro world" and referring to this "nitro modder's" word as if it were the key to your salvation. I've got the experience and education under my belt to know whats up. You have a wive's tale. Good night.
Then Place the car in a position so that the wheels are off the ground, like on a brick and start the car up and leave to run idle though 3 tanks of fuel make sure between each tank you leave the engine to cool down for about 10 minutes. It is very important to not rev the engine at all as you will badly damage it and also you will break the conrods."""
Its pointless to bother with you. You say your credentials like they are supposed to mean something. Look up Extreme RC Mods, your credentials fall flat buddy, a big, whoop-te-do... The fact of the matter is WOT wheels off the ground is NOT a smart thing to do. IF you have a different opinion, I don't give a crap, nobody does. But go ahead and hold the trigger WOT wheels off the ground as much as you like, just don't preach its okay run WOT wheels off the ground, I will slap you down every time.
Hold up, here. Let's combine a few things. You're saying revving too much without load will lean out the fuel mixture. However, all the back pressure created from throttling that high is regulated by the exhaust pushing more fuel to the engine. It's a vacuum, if it does lean out then it's not by much. You're also saying you will need excessive heat from the friction for the con-rod to separate. You can over rev the engine in 50 below and still break the con-rod.
@SUPERFORMIAN Revving too fast or exceeding max rpm with no load & yes the vacuum creates the fuel pressure & yeas it will only be reduced slightly. Engine might be outside in -50 but the engine internals are not -50. The excess rpm, and heat do not break the con rod, but are contributing factors in con rod failure.
A good way to prove it would be this: fill the tank, start the engine, and let it warm up at idle on a stand. A massive amount of liquid nitrogen will be needed. Simultaneously, full throttle the engine without releasing and continuously soak the engine with the liquid nitrogen which in turn will severely lower the temp below 200 or maybe even 150. Refuel when the tank is near empty without stopping the engine. Eventually, engine failure will occur. At 20 below.
@boatwake D10mm Silicone Exhaust Tube for 46 to 91 class engines, paste this description into eBay search and you will find them. They are about 2.50 each.
@boatwake Yes but you need to measure the diameter of the exhaust outlet as they come in different sizes for these cars also aftermarket exhausts will be different. Use a micrometer if you have one or a ruler if that is all you have, get the outside measurement. Hope that helps.
@boatwake Actually you should double check the size on that first for your cars. This is the generic description. "Nitro Silicone Exhaust Deflector /Tube / Pipe O"
@CrazyPotatoFTW depends who you ask. The video is a bit of an illusion as the car was only throttled in relatively short bursts. The temperature was monitored on both engines and it still goes like crazy!
My Neighbour occasionally tunes his V8 in his shed I guess he has more cash than me! Although maybe he has just got more to show for his investment :)
@LilGDhaGritter I don't think I could get the parts together again. Hot bodies stopped making the Twin zilla upgrade a few years back. Your best way is to leave a search on eBay and if someone offers one up for sale you will get an email.
If you search “Nitro RC Engine Tuning 2” in YouTube you will see a video from HPI, the manufacturer of these engines. One of the things HPI do to tune up their Savage 25 is they rev the car up on a block with the wheels off the ground. What are your thoughts on that?
Dude, if your saying running the Truck WOT with the wheels off the ground is NOT BAD your ignorant, and no matter how much babble you spew to try and justify your stupidity is pointless, anybody who knows anything about glow engines or tries to start, first think you should know is HEAT KILL ENGINS, it burns them up. Running WOT wheels off the ground has less resistance (load) and the engine then generates heat faster, and stresses the internal rotating parts. This scenario leads to broken rids
@kiker7sboyfriend The engine revs to fast and builds heat quicker, you don't run your nitro RC truck or car wheels off the ground WOT, its as simple as that, If you don't believe me, google it, a little research and you will learn a lot.
@AssassinTuning The idea that you should not run a glow engine with no load comes from airplanes when they lose their prop and the engine "shaft-runs" and blows up. An rc CAR always has a load when it is in the vehicle via the tranny, wheels, tires, etc. So either way, you are off base and your reasoning was incorrect in the first place. It has nothing to do with the heat created but the clearances of the conrod and crank pin at high RPMS.You clearly have not done YOUR research
No time to argue with you buddy, but the rc uses the return line from the exhaust to pressurize the fuel. No load and there is not enough fuel in the engine so there is not enough lubrication which causes it to get hot MUCH faster than if the load is higher causing the correct amount of fuel (as he system is designed for that load) to be delivered and thus properly cool the engine.
Revving up so fast wheels of the ground limits the amount of fuel delivered and increases heat faster. If you add more load than the system was designed and tuned for than you also will increase the engine temps from the additional load...
So what you're saying is if I were to drive a nitro car around, and run it up to speed and tool around without getting on it (increasing load), that I would burn it up? That somehow it can't supply itself with enough fuel to lubricate itself? You're making yourself out to be just as ignorant as you claim these other people are. The ONLY increase in heat would be due to lack of air flow.
The only problem with running an engine without load (which in would only be if he ran it out of the engine with no clutch or flywheel) is rapid changes in frequency and direction of vibrations between the parts, which is what would wear, and eventually kill the engine (but not immediately). When you have a load on it of any kind, you keep those vibrations and the frequency of such, consistent and in the same direction.
I have. I've seen what happens personally and in this video. I've never seen a connecting rod snap in one of these engines, no matter the amount of abuse they've been through. Have you ever done it yourself? There is absolutely nothing that would cause a rod to snap under the conditions in the video aside from over revving- attaining an RPM higher than the engine was designed to handle.
Next thing you know, you're going to be trying to justify "breaking in" electric motors in distilled water. Don't be one of those guys who listens to everything he's told.
Increase in heat would only be due to lack of air flow. Less load means less heat because there are fewer stresses on the internal parts. Running the vehicle with the wheels off the ground isn't necessarily a problem. Had he been running just the engines with no weight or resistance, that would have been a bigger problem, but not necessarily spell doom for the engines. You really should learn a thing about these engines before you go talking about them.
To end it here is a quote from a Nitro FAQ, Also I will inform you I have close contact with ERCM one of the top Nitro engine modifiers, you guys just need to get over it.
A. The only way that a con rod can break is either the engine is revved with no load or there is not enough fuel in the engine so there is not enough lubrication which causes the piston to jam. You should be careful not to rev the engine if the wheels are off the ground, if the flywheel is loose or if the model does a jump. Con rods are not covered by the warranty but available as a spare part.
If you want to go into credentials, I've been running nitro airplane and car engines for 10 years, and have been building, studying, and working on full size engines for 8. The drive train and tires are more than enough load to prevent altering frequencies throughout the system (just as a flywheel is on a full size engine). The only danger involved is that it is easier to OVER rev the engine, which can be done while driving under the right conditions.
So really, I don't need to hear it from someone who's simply passing around an old wive's tale. It's a fallacy that is used to help the ignorant protect their toys. If it were just the lack of load in general that were a danger to the engine, why the Hell would manufactures like HPI have you break in their engines with the vehicle on a stand? You're really friggin' dense, and it would be best for everyone if you would stop spreading misinformation.
You're too much Kiddo. Upon a vehicle on stand but NOT going WOT Dumbass. The reason they put it on the stand is because it will help it get hotter faster (need to be inside the breaking temp to get the breaking done right ;) ) They are still smart enough not to go WOT (or Wide open throttle, seems you might not understand what that is by your stupid ass comments. ) Because, well, you don't understand,
Why should I even bother to continue to explain it to somebody who is either too stupid to understand, or too pig headed to accept the truth. You think because YOU haven't snapped a rod like that that its impossible? That's the dumbest shit Ive ever heard, how often do you hold WOT wheels off the ground? At this point, prove it dipshit. Make a video of you holding WOT wheels off the ground with your trucks, do it a few times let us see..
Wow, jacksauce, try to poke at my credentials while you're going on about being close to some reknowned nitro "modder". I have FAR more experience and knowledge under my belt, and apparently the fool you think so highly of if he truly thinks that.
Sorry buddy, you playing with a few planes and trucks is one thing, being a professional moder that is highly respected in the Nitro community. Who has done more than most with Nitro's for far more then 10 years is another. You boast credential, but WHO are you in the Nitro world? Nobody. I take the guidance and work of a respected Pro over an anonymous nobody any day of the week.
All you have done is talk shit. I show you 3rd party FAQ specifically stating FACTS, you dismiss it as a "old wives tale", carried over from Nitro planes loosing props, so You are fixed in your head and refuse to acknowledge the truth, sucks to be you.
Perhaps you didn't notice in that little "FAQ" you quoted they never mention anything as to WHY its a bad idea. All it said was not to do it and that it will break a connecting rod, and it didn't even mention anything about full throttle which is something you're adding to it.
So sorry Dipshit, they need to literally spell it out for you don't they. Unreal. You really don't think the faster revving with no load going WOT could NOT stress the rod to the point of snap? You think that revving faster with no load will have the same amount a fuel delivered? You don't think that revving faster with less fuel (in turn, more air ;) ) can stress a rod to snap???
Fricken Great. PROVE IT. Get your Truck up on a stand and do some WOT pulls with it, get it on video, lets see you doing it instead of just running your mouth, Mr Mopar Man, lol.
Its cute how people step further into the offensive when someone's dipping out of an argument. Shows you're just desperate to get the last word.
And I can tell you exactly why the con rod broke. Can you? I'll give you a hint, the reason isn't wide open throttle and/or lack of load, those only created the conditions which allowed for it to fail.
You know the saying about leading a horse to water...
Its obvious you've never attempted to educate yourself on how these, or any engine of any kind, works, and it would appear you have serious issues with projection, as everything you say in attempt to describe me fits you exactly. I've had my hands on nitro engines for the past 10 years in both cars (various Traxxas, HPI, Ofna, and Kyosho models and OS and Picco engines) as well as airplanes with Enya's, SuperTigre's, Thunder Tigers, and Evolutions...
So, as it stands, I've explained EXACTLY what will harm one of these engines, WHY it will harm them, and clarified a bunch of misinformation for you, as well as debunked, yes, an old wive's tale, yet, rather than going to any length to research it or EDUCATE yourself, you flat out deny it simply because of one person's supposed reputation. That is pathetic, ignorant, and plain and simply, stupid. Have a nice night, because I'm done trying to spoon feed you.
Under WOT while the wheels are off the ground, what do you think is happening? You're OVER REVVING the engine- the engine begins to complete more revolutions per minute than it was designed to handle, which I have made clear is the case the whole time. It is NOT the low load that is a danger (no load whatsoever would be an unweighted crankshaft- NO FLYWHEEL AND CLUTCHBELL/PROP, and THAT is a danger in itself that is not seen when the vehicle is off the ground.
The WHOLE reason you break in an engine with the wheels off the ground is NOT because of heat, but actually the REDUCED LOAD from not having to move the vehicle around as well as any shock loads from going over terrain. If it were a matter of heat, they would have you actually driving the vehicle. No, the reason is it GENTLY wears the parts together and GRADUALLY heats up to operating temps which creates the proper, intended fit between them.
I knew this would become uncivil, and ultimately, I apologize for that, but your tard-ass needs to learn some respect, as well as to open your eyes and do some research rather than just "accepting truths". I don't really give a fuck about "Extreme RC Mods", or who the guy behind it is. I've done my OWN research and learned a LOT from VERY experienced engine builders, and assembled and machined race motors for both myself AND others...
...Go to college, and learn physics, statics, metallurgy, and thermodynamics, THEN you can attempt to talk shit about what I've done or know, and compare me to others.
And just for clarification, when I speak of engine builders and such, I'm not talking RC nitro engines, I'm talking full size Chevys, Fords, and Mopars.
Big deal dumbass, I rebuilt full size engine too, is that supposed to make you special? NOT AT ALL Chump. Ohh BTW check this video of a guy who help WOT while in the air off a jump, you can tell exactly when the con rod breaks. 3w youtube dot com /watch?v=Vp71HJMwAK4
Well as I said I have only ever blown a Traxxas engine, it was probably running too lean. I have a 4.6 HPI that is worn out but still runs and given the amount of work it has done, I may get it stuffed and mounted! I used to have a couple of small planes and they were bench tested with nothing more than a propeller so I got the impression that these engines were engineered to go hard, provided the temperature remained within the manufacturers range. Anyway thanks for the interest everyone.
I read that whole "discussion" between you and dahockeydude.
I agree with you. Plus him basing his ideas of a motorcycle engine is irrelevant :P.
Yeah, they work from the same principal of 2 stroke combustion, but certain things don't apply to nitro engines. There is always resistance unless your revving the engine when there is no flywheel, clutchbell connected to the cars drivetrain.
I get most of my stuff on ebay. The Zilla is obsolete, so you will only score one if a store has old stock somewhere. You could gety one second hand and build it out of aftermarket/stock XL bits. Download the manual from the HPI "Hot Bodies" site and go from there.
yeah that makes sense, but I haven't actually had a HPI engine drop a piston yet. Had a Traxxas blow up on the grass, may have been too lean, and no temp gauge that day. Thanks for the heads up.
dude running engines at full throttle without resistance is really bad for them its how you throw a piston, congratz you have an awesome car but uve just fucked it up by doing that
There is resistance. Much resistance. Parasitic resistance in the drive train, as well as the weight from the tires, gears, shafts, etc. Rotating mass and friction are plenty of resistance. If he were running it out of the truck, then that might be a different story.
BTW, what he's doing there is no different than mashing the throttle mid air to correct a nose-dive (or to flip it- either one).
granted there is resistance, but the normal resistance of all the things you mentioned is halved as it is shared between two engines, so per enegine there is very little resistance. ALSO when you correct the nose dive in mid air it is a short burst of throttle. Not two minutes of throttle with low resistance.
In motorbikes if you rev them when not in gear you can trash the crank shaft, its the same for these cars.
If you're trashing bike motors or RC motors under such situations, you need to do a bit more shopping around before buying a turd. I'm not saying what he's doing in the video is good for it, but its also not particularly bad for it.
Look. If you wrap out an engine in a vehicle (be it a bike, a car, or an RC car) in neutral or without a load on the drive train, and the motor is tearing itself apart, either something is wrong with the engine or its flat out junk. Its plain and simple, and doesn't require any discussion.
@Tboninator bullshit, if you run an engine at full throttle in neutral there are several damaging effects... 1 little airflow around the cooling fins ... engine heats up over an extended period.
2. the energy produced from the combustion has to go somewhere, energy is not lost or made it is changed from one form to another. (law of physics)
3. because the piston is not pushing against anything it causes it to hit the bottom of its cycle with more force than when it is working against a load...
Its obvious you don't know much about the topic, so I can understand why you're getting so upset.
1) Ambient temp has a lot to do with that. Not going to be an issue.
2) Irrelevant.
3) There is far more stress on the internal parts of the engine UNDER LOAD than when running freely. You just mentioned energy. Where does that energy go under load? Continued:
That car looks bad ass fuck how much did it cost to do this and it sounds beast . I liked and I loved all of your videos so I had to subscribe.
nitrorcfreak100 4 days ago
thank you for posting this. seriously thank you :D
dasrook420 1 week ago
The strength of metal is partially dependent on the temperature of the metal. The hotter you get the con rod the lower its tolerance to breakage becomes. The cooler running rod will have a higher tolerance but that doesn't make it indestructible.So obviously breakage can occur without the hear, only breakage is more probable to occur faster if heat is added into the equation.
AssassinTuning 3 weeks ago
"hear" = Heat
AssassinTuning 3 weeks ago
Its funny because you call stuff old wives tales, and that even though its though to be Common knowledge you say its wrong, you say Racers are idiots, nobody seems to know anything but you. Yet you FAIL to prove anything. You say you are right and I am wrong, and that's its not a matter of opinion, but fact, well show us those facts, prove it, as Ive already asked you to do, but you just dodge the call out, and ramble on some bullshit.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
Just cause some jackass on the tube says something is fact, doesn't make it so. So please stop avoiding it, Ive repeatedly asked you to show something, prove something, yet you just run your mouth avoiding it. Chump move....
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
Fine PROVE it then. If your so positive that rpm is the only factor and fuel, & temp etc is NOT rellevant at all, PROVE IT. So far you just run your mouth. However if your saying its fact, Prove it.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
For a lousy $300USD I can run these engines until they explode. I say we do a little scientific experiment, but you guys will need to put your money where you mouth is, each of you send me the $300 on pay pal and I will refund the winner. If they do a full tank of gas at full revs then Tobinator wins if they blow Assassin wins. Anyone else want in on the action? :)
ferret99996 1 month ago
@ferret99996
I believe you've misunderstood the argument.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator Pitty could have been a good video :)
ferret99996 1 month ago
@ferret99996
Could have, but unfortunately what would probably happen is the engine would more than likely just overheat and seize. For the sake of argument, how many rods have you broken? lol
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator I havn't broken any, but apparently I should have! Yes the video would be less than spectacular visually. I personally think the HPI engine would go the distance. They are pretty tough. I have seized a near new Traxxas but I think it was too lean too soon, and it was actually on the grass to be clear. I had the throttle jam open on a couple of cars and they were very hot by the time I got them back but I am still using the engines so no "obvious" damage. There is a video.
ferret99996 1 month ago
@ferret99996
Exactly as I expected. lol
First and last motor I burnt out was years ago, and it was a 2.5 T-Maxx. Was driving it around my back yard and rolled it, knocking the coupler on the exhaust loose. It had a couple gallons of fuel through it and I was looking to upgrade, so I just let it go as I finished off the tank. After it cooled, it seized. Inside was torn up pretty bad, but hey, at least I didn't break a con-rod. Hahaha...
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator You are right I don't get it. Can you explain this to me in simple terms what the disagreement is about?
ferret99996 1 month ago
Comment removed
Tboninator 1 month ago
@ferret99996
Cont'd.......Also he tried to claim it will break a con-rod; he later started saying WOT, and is now agreeing with me on over-revving being the issue, but still thinks lack of lube, fuel, and friction are factors, when its simply inertia at high speeds causing con-rods to break, not necessarily anything else. He more or less argues that you can run an engine at any RPM past the maximum safe range as long as its cooled well enough and has enough fuel/lube. lol
Tboninator 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@ferret99996
He went spouting off about how running a nitro vehicle with wheels off the ground is no load (however, its low load, not absolute lack of load- rotating mass from drive train and tires provides a load just as a fly wheel on a full size engine would) is all around bad for it. He said because of lack of load, the engine somehow runs lean, even with a proper tune, and how it doesn't get enough lubrication.......
Tboninator 1 month ago
So, what is the bottom line, ya little douchebag? RPM. Repeat that to yourself a couple times. The only reason it is not recommended to run a model engine with little load is how easy it can be to reach unsafe RPM. Fuel, load, temperature are all non issues. Con rods break from excess stress. The only stressor would be RPM. This is very basic shit, and it would behoove you to learn it.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
More like you need to learn how to speak English. I said the issue was from revving too fast etc, cry me a river with your blah blah bull shit. Mr Mopar Man, Yawn at these squibbles...
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
No, as a matter of fact, you didn't. If you had actually said that, or even explained, accurately, what is occurring, I would not have had a single problem with what you said. Believe it or not, I would rather be doing something else other than arguing with some kid who takes his toys too seriously. BTW, I don't know why you're calling me Mopar Man- even though I'm a Chevy guy, I don't see how that's supposed to be insulting.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Yeah, as a matter of fact that what Ive been saying the WHOLE time. Blipping the throttle or letting it idle on a stand is not the same as holding WOT, as Ive explained holding WOT with no load causes the engine to rev too fast & starve it of fuel as its running with less load than it was designed for. That meas it will rev, faster, and past the point where the engine was tuned for making it rev lean, get hot and this causes a higher stress on the con rod,
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
and could lead to breaking the Rod, SOOO it is NOT smart to go WOT with the wheel off the ground. I never say its a problem to idle off the ground or blip the throttle off the ground, just that its not wise (smart) to hold WOT wheels off the ground....
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
No shit it's not the same, and no, that is not what you've been saying. And how does it starve the engine of fuel? It may not supply as much fuel, but it is in no way starving the engine of fuel. If that were the case, no manufacturer would recommend breaking their engines in on a stand or with the model off the ground.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
That's what Ive been saying dipshit, over and over, get a life. Umm revving too fast doesn't starve it of fuel? Moron, NO manufacture recommends going WOT with it on the stand, big difference between idling through a tank and going WOT moron.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
You keep giving me more and more reasons to believe you're simply mentally disabled rather than ignorant...
RPM does not starve the engine of fuel. WTF would give you that idea? Never mind, you actually believe low load starves the engine of fuel. LOL
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Wow, your are mentally disabled, too stupid to understand how revving faster than it was tuned for will lean it out. You must be retarded. The lack of load allows the engine to rev faster then it was intended to and tuned for if you hold WOT, moron.
Keep it going lifeless dipshit
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
It doesn't lean out. The pipe will only allow a certain percentage of exhaust out, that's how it builds up pressure. As you speed your air pump up (what an engine of any kind is at its core), you increase pressure in the exhaust. That pressure increases the amount of fuel being pushed into your engine. The higher RPM, the higher the fuel flow. It doesn't magically taper off at maximum RPM and higher, therefore it is irrelevant in regards to the topic at hand.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
As for being lifeless, we have discussed this as well. You're spewing garbage, I'm setting it straight. You have no need to post, yet you continue because you have some unfounded pride that you simply won't ignore. As long as you continue to spread this trash, I will continue to correct it. You want it to stop? Either educate yourself or shut up.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
No, you're right, no manufacturer recommends it, for the simple reason that it's too easy to over rev and damage the motor. I could put it up and open it all the way up until it starts to reach max RPM, then back off. That wouldn't hurt it at all. Holding it would. See the difference?
And my old Savage .25 did not call for idling save for one tank, the rest required quite a bit of throttle input. You'd think if it was bad for it, they wouldn't recommend it.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Here's another question, that you will undoubtedly ignore, and reply with nothing but petty insults like the child you are: if low load starves the engine of fuel, what would happen if you were driving on a smooth, level surface, maintaining speed- would that then starve the engine of fuel and lubrication?
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
So, here's another lesson for you: even though the backpressure in the exhaust system is lower than when under load, it still provides adequate fuel to the engine. An engine with little load requires less lubrication and fuel than one under heavy load. The main cause to overheating in these engines is friction. Less stress means less friction, meaning less lubrication is needed to compensate.
As I've said the whole time: only danger is RPM, no other factors.
Tboninator 1 month ago
I really couldn't care less about your lessons, you need to realize stupid, I never said picking the wheel off the ground or blipping the throttle with them off is a problem, moron... Its only a problem if you hold wot and rev too fast dipshit. Revving too fast wouldn't be as big a deal if there was more lubrication, less friction, less heat, less stress. You really think your giving out lessons??? Your a idiot fighting to get the last word on a youtube argument...
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
I'll keep posting after you just to show you can't stop, you act like its me fighting for it, but you don't seem to walk away, maybe its time you practice what you preach.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
No, you've stated many fallacies:
Low load = fuel starvation. False.
Low load = increase in heat. False.
Running the engine with the wheels off the ground = broken con-rod. Not necessarily true. You've occasionally mentioned WOT, but WOT does not mean sustained throttle. I can go WOT for a second and run it up to speed, and let off to sustain max RPM. That will not break a con-rod.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Max RPM has nothing to do with friction, heat, or lubrication. ONLY STRESS. There are forces being applied to the materials that they were not designed to handle past a certain RPM, at which point they come apart or break. No amount of lube, lack of friction, or cool temps would save that. So really, who's the idiot? The one speaking truths and setting shit straight, or the one continuing to argue against factual information, refusing to let go of being right?
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
I disagree with you, I believe that RMP has much to do with friction, heat, and its directly related to lubrication, all of these are contributing factors in the "Stress" on the rod IMO, if you disagree, good for you, I don't give a shit, I only reply when I get a pop up in my email box saying you can't give up until you drop the last word...
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Lubrication assists in achieving high RPM. Little lubrication = more friction = more power required to increase speed. However, since we know that the engine does not starve itself at speed, as backpressure is ever increasing, therefore fuel feed is ever increasing, we know that lubrication and fuel are not factors in failure at speeds outside of the safe RPM range. The engine can fail cold or hot. That rules out temp.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Like I said, You can think and preach what you want, I don't give a crap. Revving too fast as you can with the reduction in load lifting the wheel off the ground revs faster then the engine was tuned for and gets there quick. Revving faster then intended means Less fuel = leaner mixture making more power with less lubrication, This combined with the friction of revving faster then the engine was intended and the heat from the fast revving lean mixture generates heat FAST
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
This all is more stress then you want on your on Rod. Hell racers are known to replace con rod after just breaking in the engine, just because of the added stress breaking in the pinch has on the con rod. You might run your truck pig safe rich, but mine are running on point and aggressive,
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
That leaves stress as the only remaining factor. It is true that lack lubrication and high or low temperatures can increase these stresses, but are not issues when dealing with the failure of a properly tuned and maintained engine. Apparently you don't realize how fast 30-40k RPMs and higher really is, and the way the metals stretch and deform at those speeds, or how already tight tolerances become even tighter until parts weaken and give out or collide.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
I too will continue to post every time I see "Reply from AssassinTuning" in my inbox, because I hate misinformation, and feel obligated to correct it so that others may witness solid, factual information and know what they can and cannot do, and WHY. You will keep posting based on pride and to claim you're right. I'll continue to post for accuracy.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Sweet, lets see how long we can go back and forth on this, PLEASE feel obliged to run your mouth like a idiot every chance you can, show you must have a real busy life with so much Moparing going on. I have to post because I'm allergic to your bull shit Mr Mopar
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Though I do love Mopar, I'm mainly a Chevy guy. Already said that too. I'd say repetition is the key with you, but I've said everything dozens of times and it still hasn't stuck.
How do you justify the engine leaning out at higher RPMs? What causes that? All the important variables would indicate that is not the case, but please, since it must happen, what causes it?
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Yeah, okay there Mr Mopar, That's my name for you, and it's not gonna change. Ive repeated myself enough times already to keep at it. So if you can't figure it out. Sucks to be you Mr Mopar Blah blah king.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
I asked a question, are you going to answer it or ignore it like every other one? Because you have a lot of claims and statements, but no rationale for them. Now that you're not even on the same subject, it seems you're probably just going to post simply for the last word, not even to defend yourself. That's even more pathetic than it was before.
Tboninator 1 month ago
Not going to repeat myself anymore because a brain dead guy on youtube can't understand. What is this ground hog day? Ive repeated and repeated myself. If YOU who have failed to show anything to back your claim yet you change what your saying half way through. I say revving too fast can cause damage, you say over revving can cause damage. re you really so stupid you can't see they are the same thing. Fucking Tool!
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Hooray, more childish, petty insults. Insults and anger do not convey your point. They just show you're incapable of debate.
Finally catching on, aren't we? Revving too fast does damage the engine. The first, truthful, factual thing you've said this entire time.
Just so we're clear, you do understand now that the RPMs and the stresses associated with them are the only factor in engine failure, correct (at this point, that's more what this argument is about)?
Tboninator 1 month ago
Dumbass Ive been saying revving too fast is the issue from the start, are you really that stupid? Don't act all righteous like you haven't been tossing out insults right back. Get a life Tool!
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Not nearly to the extent you have. Your insults can be found in every post... Your ignorance, and Hell, your arrogance, is astounding.
You've been spewing loads of garbage about how running the vehicle off the ground will starve the engine of fuel and lubrication, and how damaging it is- and it simply isn't true. Every time I ask you to explain how you justify your claims, you flat out ignore it. I have a feeling that's because you know you're wrong.
Tboninator 1 month ago
It don't matter, ohhhh you said more insults than I, don't matter, if you toss em out your have no business whining about them coming at you after. Dude you are unbelievably thick headed. Ive been saying from the beginning going WOT wheels off the ground gets you revving too fast, revving too fast (or "over revving" as you put it) accompanied by all that comes with revving too fast with the wheels off the ground is a great way to snap a rod. Are your serious????? Get a Life Tool!
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
You're the one complaining about carrying on an argument, while carrying on an argument, and doing nothing but throwing out insults and bitching about being right. I'm merely pointing out that your insults are over used and out of context. Like getting a life? My responses do not indicate one way or another, as it only takes seconds. What are your grounds for assuming I have no life? You're doing the same, the only difference is you're both wrong, and an idiot.
Tboninator 1 month ago
lol ahhh are you getting upset? Sounds like it. I simply refuse to repeat myself and continue to bite. You are a sad sad idiot, and only idiots like yourself who realize they have been a fool (you really couldnt understand revving too fast and over revving are the same thing, what a idiot) now your trying to run your mouth to cover your tail as you admit revving too fast does indeed kill engines, only your a idiot and think that revving too fast and over revving are different.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
So idiot, to put it simple, "Over revving" the engine or "revving too fast" is stress your engine doesn't need, and with no reason to "over rev" the engine, whats the Point????
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Bahaha... Oh God this is rich... Its clear this whole dispute has gone way over your head. Your initial posts were quite a bit more than simply stating "over revving" or "revving too fast" is bad. There is no confusion on my end that they are the same thing. The real issue is you don't realize the factors involved with engine failure. Broken con-rods at RPM are due only to stress caused solely by RPM, while you try to claim there are other factors at work.
Tboninator 1 month ago
Ah hahahahah This has all been over your head. I knew it. All the confusion is o your end, no surprise, you are an idiot after all. The issue is you don't realize the factors involved with engine failure. Broken con-rods are due to revving too fast and all that comes with it with the wheels off the ground....
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
So are you admitting that the engine does not run lean when not under load, and that lack of lubrication and heat are not the causes of con-rod failure in a properly tuned engine wrapping out above it's maximum safe RPM?
Tboninator 1 month ago
So you are admitting that revving faster then the engine was designed for, with less back pressure from running with the wheels off the ground creates a over revving engine running leaner then tuned for at higher revs then the engine was designed more friction, heat and stress on the engine leading to engine failure?
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
No. A properly tuned engine will not run lean, regardless of load or RPM. Evidence of this is you never see an over revved engine stalling out, and you always see plenty of smoke from the exhaust. Friction and heat are not not necessary factors involved when a rod lets go. An engine with an will bust a rod even with an infinite amount of cooling and lubrication/lack of friction at RPMs beyond safe speeds. You can thank inertia for that.
Tboninator 1 month ago
I disagree, hope you can handle that, but somehow I don't think you have the ability.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Unfortunately this isn't about opinions. I can handle willfully ignorant, just can't handle those who don't care, trying to spread their ignorance to others.
Tboninator 1 month ago
Prove it then... Naw you won't because your just blowing smoke out your ass. You say its fact heat plays no role, you say its fact that over revving will not lean out the mixture, and the only factor in engine failure is RPM. Cool, Prove it.. Hurry up already. Ive called you out to prove it a few times, but you just dodge it. Prove what you claim as fact.... What, you can't? No surprise....
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Assassin, don't come on here and expect people to provide proof when you've got absolutely no proof of your own. All you've got are claims, and a vague quote of some FAQ somewhere that simply says not to do run the model off the ground at all with no explanation as to why. I've got claims, AS WELL as sound logic and a very healthy background in mechanical engineering and engine building. Don't be so upset about it. You've found someone you can't fool. Sorry.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Seriously, Fuck You. I post some comment as I am free to do so. You have the ability to live your life and go about not nit picking over BS on youtube, BUT YOU choose to hound me fighting to prove me wrong, BUT for you to prove me wrong, you have to PROVE me wrong. You have not proved anything but you ave the ability to run your mouth. So IF you want to show me up as being so wrong, PROVE IT OR STFU
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
So you're not going to bother to provide proof of your claims, which contrast greatly with reality, and the physics involved with these toys.
Tboninator 1 month ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@Tboninator
Dipshit! I already said, you can have your opinion, and I can have mine, I don't give a fuck about you admitting anything or care to "prove" you wrong. It is YOU that are on a mission to prove me wrong.... And claim what you say is FACT, well PROVE it already, Mr Mopar... Soooo you're not going to bother to provide proof of your claims, which contrast greatly with reality, and the physics involved with these toys. You just run your mouth like a little bitch...
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
That being said, provide me with some legitimate, specific evidence that proves your claims of 1) an engine being starved of fuel at speed with low load, and 2) lack of lubrication/fuel, high friction, and heat are all necessary to break a con-rod at RPMs beyond the designated safe RPM range. I'd bet that you can't do that. As a matter of fact, I know you can't, but I'd bet you won't even try, just as you haven't tried to carry on a rational debate.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
You'd think that since I'm not the only one to point out your stupidity to you, you'd acknowledge this and move on, but alas, I guess that is the whole point of being stupid, right?
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Also, racers have been known to be fools. In every motor sport there are myths and superstitions in many people's setups that they believe increase performance. Just because they've been known to replace rods doesn't mean there is necessarily any advantage to it. Until they can prove it there is with exact measurements between a freshly broken in rod, and an unused rod, and have performance numbers to prove performance increase, it remains a useless tactic.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Also, you're putting just as much time, if not more considering your previous arguments/posts with others, into this, which makes me question why you are telling me to get a life. You're the one who spread misinfo, and you've also wasted more time, so whats up?
Tboninator 1 month ago
Now that we know that we can now exclude that as a factor, because if heat played any significant or immediate role in this situation it would be be even more prevalent while driving the vehicle.
Tboninator 1 month ago
Load or no load, the engine will sufficiently supply itself with fuel. When you mention heat, you fail to realize that an engine under load generates more heat than one without. The causes for this are increases friction and stresses between components as well as hot, lingering gases as they are not expelled as quickly.
Tboninator 1 month ago
You really haven't a clue, "Assassin". You have bluntly stated that running the engine at all with the wheels off the ground will destroy it, occasionally throwing WOT into the mix. The only danger is running the engine at a speed higher than it was designed. You can do this driving the vehicle under the right conditions. Thats right, the sole factor is RPM.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
I NEVER once stated just from lifting the wheels off the ground was a problem at all. Its actually not a problem, unless you hod WOT, that's why I kept repeating WOT over and OVER, even stating OVER and OVER its when holding WOT it revs too fast, get a life Punk.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
I can get quotes from multiple sites explaining, DON'T ReV up with the wheels off the ground because it will break a con rod. You simply talk shit, but that's it, you blah blah your credentials as if they mean something to me. So what you rebuild engines, So have I, so what, that shit is irrelevant. Fact of the matter is, you can't do much but talk shit.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Running the engine or the vehicle with the wheels off the ground does not necessitate engine failure and this act alone is not necessarily bad for the engine. All your pseudoscience about heat and lack of fuel is bogus- the only danger is from ease of over revving the engine, absolutely nothing else. As long as you don't exceed the maximum safe engine speed, there really is no worry save for extended running with no airflow.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Ummm I have to say Holly shit. Buddy, you need some help. Maybe you got small penis syndrome or something. But your "over revving" Hmmm you wouldn't happen to do that if you hmmm say, held WOT wheels off the ground, would you??? Ohh and ""Over Revving"" as I put it revving too fast, That wouldn't lean out the engine would it??? Hmmm over revving leaning out engine, that doesn't ""necessitate"" engine failure does it....
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
I'm having a good little chuckle over here. :D What is the danger of ""over revving" the engine Mr Mopar??? lolololololoolol Sorry if "revving too fast"" wasn't as clear as ""over revving"" Funny as Hell!!!!
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
And again, you are having issues with projection. No one here is talking shit but you. I've provided you with countless arguments based on logic, provided in various manners, while you've done nothing but try to discredit me with claims of being a "nobody in the nitro world" and referring to this "nitro modder's" word as if it were the key to your salvation. I've got the experience and education under my belt to know whats up. You have a wive's tale. Good night.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
And one last word for clarification, I don't simply "rebuild" engines. What you've done and what I do on a regular basis are worlds apart.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
funny how you assume like you have a clue about me or what I do
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
little something I found
""" How To Run In Your Nitro Model
Then Place the car in a position so that the wheels are off the ground, like on a brick and start the car up and leave to run idle though 3 tanks of fuel make sure between each tank you leave the engine to cool down for about 10 minutes. It is very important to not rev the engine at all as you will badly damage it and also you will break the conrods."""
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
Its pointless to bother with you. You say your credentials like they are supposed to mean something. Look up Extreme RC Mods, your credentials fall flat buddy, a big, whoop-te-do... The fact of the matter is WOT wheels off the ground is NOT a smart thing to do. IF you have a different opinion, I don't give a crap, nobody does. But go ahead and hold the trigger WOT wheels off the ground as much as you like, just don't preach its okay run WOT wheels off the ground, I will slap you down every time.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
Do some research before you talk shit. Revving up no load is stupid, and a great way to snap a Rod.....
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
Hold up, here. Let's combine a few things. You're saying revving too much without load will lean out the fuel mixture. However, all the back pressure created from throttling that high is regulated by the exhaust pushing more fuel to the engine. It's a vacuum, if it does lean out then it's not by much. You're also saying you will need excessive heat from the friction for the con-rod to separate. You can over rev the engine in 50 below and still break the con-rod.
SUPERFORMIAN 3 weeks ago
@SUPERFORMIAN Revving too fast or exceeding max rpm with no load & yes the vacuum creates the fuel pressure & yeas it will only be reduced slightly. Engine might be outside in -50 but the engine internals are not -50. The excess rpm, and heat do not break the con rod, but are contributing factors in con rod failure.
AssassinTuning 3 weeks ago
A good way to prove it would be this: fill the tank, start the engine, and let it warm up at idle on a stand. A massive amount of liquid nitrogen will be needed. Simultaneously, full throttle the engine without releasing and continuously soak the engine with the liquid nitrogen which in turn will severely lower the temp below 200 or maybe even 150. Refuel when the tank is near empty without stopping the engine. Eventually, engine failure will occur. At 20 below.
SUPERFORMIAN 3 weeks ago
@kiker7sboyfriend Just because your to ignorant to make sense of it does not mean its wrong. In fact it's the truth. And there is evidence.
suckerpunch60duce 1 month ago
@suckerpunch60duce
Maybe we should just let them think its okay...
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
Would be nice to see it running on the ground!
4crevis 2 months ago 4
@4crevis there is a video here "Twin Zilla Road run - StupidFastRC" Will post a better video soon.
ferret99996 2 months ago
@ferret99996 Ok thanks!
4crevis 2 months ago
what glow plugs do you use
YoungStunnaB 2 months ago
@YoungStunnaB They are OS medium No "8" Plugs, with fuel of 25% Nitro 10 Castor 5 synthetic. Sorry just noticed your question.
ferret99996 1 month ago
whats the thing on the exaust called thanks
boatwake 2 months ago
@boatwake D10mm Silicone Exhaust Tube for 46 to 91 class engines, paste this description into eBay search and you will find them. They are about 2.50 each.
ferret99996 2 months ago
@ferret99996 would it fit a savage 4.6 or a tmaxx 3.3?
boatwake 2 months ago
@boatwake Yes but you need to measure the diameter of the exhaust outlet as they come in different sizes for these cars also aftermarket exhausts will be different. Use a micrometer if you have one or a ruler if that is all you have, get the outside measurement. Hope that helps.
ferret99996 2 months ago
@boatwake Actually you should double check the size on that first for your cars. This is the generic description. "Nitro Silicone Exhaust Deflector /Tube / Pipe O"
ferret99996 2 months ago
is it bad if u throttle it off ground?
CrazyPotatoFTW 2 months ago
@CrazyPotatoFTW depends who you ask. The video is a bit of an illusion as the car was only throttled in relatively short bursts. The temperature was monitored on both engines and it still goes like crazy!
ferret99996 2 months ago
wow two motors ^^
DarkgreenToXiC 2 months ago
Sick truck, but your sure to blow your engines from over revving
skinpounder666 3 months ago
My Neighbour occasionally tunes his V8 in his shed I guess he has more cash than me! Although maybe he has just got more to show for his investment :)
ferret99996 3 months ago
Comment removed
zombykreature 3 months ago
bet the neighbours LOVEE you:)
TheMoffBoy 3 months ago
How Much Would Yu Charge To Build Somjething Like Dhis For Me
LilGDhaGritter 4 months ago
@LilGDhaGritter I don't think I could get the parts together again. Hot bodies stopped making the Twin zilla upgrade a few years back. Your best way is to leave a search on eBay and if someone offers one up for sale you will get an email.
ferret99996 4 months ago
@ferret99996 Ok Thanks Would Yuu Ever Look Into Selling This One
LilGDhaGritter 4 months ago in playlist Liked
@LilGDhaGritter Not at the moment but If I change my mind I will let you know
ferret99996 4 months ago
holy fuck
junglecat224 5 months ago
If you search “Nitro RC Engine Tuning 2” in YouTube you will see a video from HPI, the manufacturer of these engines. One of the things HPI do to tune up their Savage 25 is they rev the car up on a block with the wheels off the ground. What are your thoughts on that?
ferret99996 5 months ago
@ferret99996
They let it idle through a tank no load ;) they don't go WOT and rev it up ;) .....
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
Dude, if your saying running the Truck WOT with the wheels off the ground is NOT BAD your ignorant, and no matter how much babble you spew to try and justify your stupidity is pointless, anybody who knows anything about glow engines or tries to start, first think you should know is HEAT KILL ENGINS, it burns them up. Running WOT wheels off the ground has less resistance (load) and the engine then generates heat faster, and stresses the internal rotating parts. This scenario leads to broken rids
AssassinTuning 5 months ago 2
@AssassinTuning Wouldnt a lesser load not create as much heat? Your reasoning does not make sense.
kiker7sboyfriend 1 month ago
@kiker7sboyfriend The engine revs to fast and builds heat quicker, you don't run your nitro RC truck or car wheels off the ground WOT, its as simple as that, If you don't believe me, google it, a little research and you will learn a lot.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning The idea that you should not run a glow engine with no load comes from airplanes when they lose their prop and the engine "shaft-runs" and blows up. An rc CAR always has a load when it is in the vehicle via the tranny, wheels, tires, etc. So either way, you are off base and your reasoning was incorrect in the first place. It has nothing to do with the heat created but the clearances of the conrod and crank pin at high RPMS.You clearly have not done YOUR research
kiker7sboyfriend 1 month ago
@kiker7sboyfriend
No time to argue with you buddy, but the rc uses the return line from the exhaust to pressurize the fuel. No load and there is not enough fuel in the engine so there is not enough lubrication which causes it to get hot MUCH faster than if the load is higher causing the correct amount of fuel (as he system is designed for that load) to be delivered and thus properly cool the engine.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
Revving up so fast wheels of the ground limits the amount of fuel delivered and increases heat faster. If you add more load than the system was designed and tuned for than you also will increase the engine temps from the additional load...
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
So what you're saying is if I were to drive a nitro car around, and run it up to speed and tool around without getting on it (increasing load), that I would burn it up? That somehow it can't supply itself with enough fuel to lubricate itself? You're making yourself out to be just as ignorant as you claim these other people are. The ONLY increase in heat would be due to lack of air flow.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
The only problem with running an engine without load (which in would only be if he ran it out of the engine with no clutch or flywheel) is rapid changes in frequency and direction of vibrations between the parts, which is what would wear, and eventually kill the engine (but not immediately). When you have a load on it of any kind, you keep those vibrations and the frequency of such, consistent and in the same direction.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Wrong, WOT wheels off the ground is a great way to snap a rod, Why not do it a few times for a bit, see what happens ;)
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
I have. I've seen what happens personally and in this video. I've never seen a connecting rod snap in one of these engines, no matter the amount of abuse they've been through. Have you ever done it yourself? There is absolutely nothing that would cause a rod to snap under the conditions in the video aside from over revving- attaining an RPM higher than the engine was designed to handle.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Next thing you know, you're going to be trying to justify "breaking in" electric motors in distilled water. Don't be one of those guys who listens to everything he's told.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Increase in heat would only be due to lack of air flow. Less load means less heat because there are fewer stresses on the internal parts. Running the vehicle with the wheels off the ground isn't necessarily a problem. Had he been running just the engines with no weight or resistance, that would have been a bigger problem, but not necessarily spell doom for the engines. You really should learn a thing about these engines before you go talking about them.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
To end it here is a quote from a Nitro FAQ, Also I will inform you I have close contact with ERCM one of the top Nitro engine modifiers, you guys just need to get over it.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Q. Why did my con rod break?
A. The only way that a con rod can break is either the engine is revved with no load or there is not enough fuel in the engine so there is not enough lubrication which causes the piston to jam. You should be careful not to rev the engine if the wheels are off the ground, if the flywheel is loose or if the model does a jump. Con rods are not covered by the warranty but available as a spare part.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
w w w Dot rcmodscars DOT co.uk/nitro_faq.php
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
If you want to go into credentials, I've been running nitro airplane and car engines for 10 years, and have been building, studying, and working on full size engines for 8. The drive train and tires are more than enough load to prevent altering frequencies throughout the system (just as a flywheel is on a full size engine). The only danger involved is that it is easier to OVER rev the engine, which can be done while driving under the right conditions.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
So really, I don't need to hear it from someone who's simply passing around an old wive's tale. It's a fallacy that is used to help the ignorant protect their toys. If it were just the lack of load in general that were a danger to the engine, why the Hell would manufactures like HPI have you break in their engines with the vehicle on a stand? You're really friggin' dense, and it would be best for everyone if you would stop spreading misinformation.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
You're too much Kiddo. Upon a vehicle on stand but NOT going WOT Dumbass. The reason they put it on the stand is because it will help it get hotter faster (need to be inside the breaking temp to get the breaking done right ;) ) They are still smart enough not to go WOT (or Wide open throttle, seems you might not understand what that is by your stupid ass comments. ) Because, well, you don't understand,
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Why should I even bother to continue to explain it to somebody who is either too stupid to understand, or too pig headed to accept the truth. You think because YOU haven't snapped a rod like that that its impossible? That's the dumbest shit Ive ever heard, how often do you hold WOT wheels off the ground? At this point, prove it dipshit. Make a video of you holding WOT wheels off the ground with your trucks, do it a few times let us see..
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Wow, jacksauce, try to poke at my credentials while you're going on about being close to some reknowned nitro "modder". I have FAR more experience and knowledge under my belt, and apparently the fool you think so highly of if he truly thinks that.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Sorry buddy, you playing with a few planes and trucks is one thing, being a professional moder that is highly respected in the Nitro community. Who has done more than most with Nitro's for far more then 10 years is another. You boast credential, but WHO are you in the Nitro world? Nobody. I take the guidance and work of a respected Pro over an anonymous nobody any day of the week.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
All you have done is talk shit. I show you 3rd party FAQ specifically stating FACTS, you dismiss it as a "old wives tale", carried over from Nitro planes loosing props, so You are fixed in your head and refuse to acknowledge the truth, sucks to be you.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Perhaps you didn't notice in that little "FAQ" you quoted they never mention anything as to WHY its a bad idea. All it said was not to do it and that it will break a connecting rod, and it didn't even mention anything about full throttle which is something you're adding to it.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
So sorry Dipshit, they need to literally spell it out for you don't they. Unreal. You really don't think the faster revving with no load going WOT could NOT stress the rod to the point of snap? You think that revving faster with no load will have the same amount a fuel delivered? You don't think that revving faster with less fuel (in turn, more air ;) ) can stress a rod to snap???
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
Fricken Great. PROVE IT. Get your Truck up on a stand and do some WOT pulls with it, get it on video, lets see you doing it instead of just running your mouth, Mr Mopar Man, lol.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Its cute how people step further into the offensive when someone's dipping out of an argument. Shows you're just desperate to get the last word.
And I can tell you exactly why the con rod broke. Can you? I'll give you a hint, the reason isn't wide open throttle and/or lack of load, those only created the conditions which allowed for it to fail.
You know the saying about leading a horse to water...
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Describe yourself real well there buddy.
""those only created the conditions which allowed for it to fail.""
That's the point ;) but you fail to understand, pointless arguments you have.
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Its obvious you've never attempted to educate yourself on how these, or any engine of any kind, works, and it would appear you have serious issues with projection, as everything you say in attempt to describe me fits you exactly. I've had my hands on nitro engines for the past 10 years in both cars (various Traxxas, HPI, Ofna, and Kyosho models and OS and Picco engines) as well as airplanes with Enya's, SuperTigre's, Thunder Tigers, and Evolutions...
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
So, as it stands, I've explained EXACTLY what will harm one of these engines, WHY it will harm them, and clarified a bunch of misinformation for you, as well as debunked, yes, an old wive's tale, yet, rather than going to any length to research it or EDUCATE yourself, you flat out deny it simply because of one person's supposed reputation. That is pathetic, ignorant, and plain and simply, stupid. Have a nice night, because I'm done trying to spoon feed you.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
Under WOT while the wheels are off the ground, what do you think is happening? You're OVER REVVING the engine- the engine begins to complete more revolutions per minute than it was designed to handle, which I have made clear is the case the whole time. It is NOT the low load that is a danger (no load whatsoever would be an unweighted crankshaft- NO FLYWHEEL AND CLUTCHBELL/PROP, and THAT is a danger in itself that is not seen when the vehicle is off the ground.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
The WHOLE reason you break in an engine with the wheels off the ground is NOT because of heat, but actually the REDUCED LOAD from not having to move the vehicle around as well as any shock loads from going over terrain. If it were a matter of heat, they would have you actually driving the vehicle. No, the reason is it GENTLY wears the parts together and GRADUALLY heats up to operating temps which creates the proper, intended fit between them.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
I knew this would become uncivil, and ultimately, I apologize for that, but your tard-ass needs to learn some respect, as well as to open your eyes and do some research rather than just "accepting truths". I don't really give a fuck about "Extreme RC Mods", or who the guy behind it is. I've done my OWN research and learned a LOT from VERY experienced engine builders, and assembled and machined race motors for both myself AND others...
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
...Go to college, and learn physics, statics, metallurgy, and thermodynamics, THEN you can attempt to talk shit about what I've done or know, and compare me to others.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@AssassinTuning
And just for clarification, when I speak of engine builders and such, I'm not talking RC nitro engines, I'm talking full size Chevys, Fords, and Mopars.
Tboninator 1 month ago
@Tboninator
Big deal dumbass, I rebuilt full size engine too, is that supposed to make you special? NOT AT ALL Chump. Ohh BTW check this video of a guy who help WOT while in the air off a jump, you can tell exactly when the con rod breaks. 3w youtube dot com /watch?v=Vp71HJMwAK4
AssassinTuning 1 month ago
NICE:)
NussPenis 9 months ago
Well as I said I have only ever blown a Traxxas engine, it was probably running too lean. I have a 4.6 HPI that is worn out but still runs and given the amount of work it has done, I may get it stuffed and mounted! I used to have a couple of small planes and they were bench tested with nothing more than a propeller so I got the impression that these engines were engineered to go hard, provided the temperature remained within the manufacturers range. Anyway thanks for the interest everyone.
ferret99996 10 months ago
@Tboninator
+1
I read that whole "discussion" between you and dahockeydude.
I agree with you. Plus him basing his ideas of a motorcycle engine is irrelevant :P.
Yeah, they work from the same principal of 2 stroke combustion, but certain things don't apply to nitro engines. There is always resistance unless your revving the engine when there is no flywheel, clutchbell connected to the cars drivetrain.
JKZD 10 months ago
J adore ta pratique du modelisme!!!!!!
xxxpataouinxxx 1 year ago
I get most of my stuff on ebay. The Zilla is obsolete, so you will only score one if a store has old stock somewhere. You could gety one second hand and build it out of aftermarket/stock XL bits. Download the manual from the HPI "Hot Bodies" site and go from there.
ferret99996 1 year ago
were do u buy them both. if online can u give me the link
chunk4life1234 1 year ago
yeah that makes sense, but I haven't actually had a HPI engine drop a piston yet. Had a Traxxas blow up on the grass, may have been too lean, and no temp gauge that day. Thanks for the heads up.
ferret99996 1 year ago
dude running engines at full throttle without resistance is really bad for them its how you throw a piston, congratz you have an awesome car but uve just fucked it up by doing that
dahockeydude 1 year ago
@dahockeydude
There is resistance. Much resistance. Parasitic resistance in the drive train, as well as the weight from the tires, gears, shafts, etc. Rotating mass and friction are plenty of resistance. If he were running it out of the truck, then that might be a different story.
BTW, what he's doing there is no different than mashing the throttle mid air to correct a nose-dive (or to flip it- either one).
Tboninator 11 months ago
@Tboninator
granted there is resistance, but the normal resistance of all the things you mentioned is halved as it is shared between two engines, so per enegine there is very little resistance. ALSO when you correct the nose dive in mid air it is a short burst of throttle. Not two minutes of throttle with low resistance.
In motorbikes if you rev them when not in gear you can trash the crank shaft, its the same for these cars.
dahockeydude 11 months ago
@dahockeydude
If you're trashing bike motors or RC motors under such situations, you need to do a bit more shopping around before buying a turd. I'm not saying what he's doing in the video is good for it, but its also not particularly bad for it.
Tboninator 11 months ago
@Tboninator did i ever say that I trashed it?
i have restored an old motorbike (it didn't happen to it but i was told it could happen if you do that)
Look at my channel find my video of my motorbike running again.
similarly i have never done this to a car to wreck the engine, but i know it can happen
dahockeydude 11 months ago
@dahockeydude
Look. If you wrap out an engine in a vehicle (be it a bike, a car, or an RC car) in neutral or without a load on the drive train, and the motor is tearing itself apart, either something is wrong with the engine or its flat out junk. Its plain and simple, and doesn't require any discussion.
Tboninator 11 months ago
@Tboninator bullshit, if you run an engine at full throttle in neutral there are several damaging effects... 1 little airflow around the cooling fins ... engine heats up over an extended period.
2. the energy produced from the combustion has to go somewhere, energy is not lost or made it is changed from one form to another. (law of physics)
3. because the piston is not pushing against anything it causes it to hit the bottom of its cycle with more force than when it is working against a load...
dahockeydude 11 months ago
@dahockeydude
Its obvious you don't know much about the topic, so I can understand why you're getting so upset.
1) Ambient temp has a lot to do with that. Not going to be an issue.
2) Irrelevant.
3) There is far more stress on the internal parts of the engine UNDER LOAD than when running freely. You just mentioned energy. Where does that energy go under load? Continued:
Tboninator 11 months ago