Climbing Tools: Prussik for glacier travel

[hvydrt909]

For the middle person on the rope, is it it common practice to attach one prussik toward the leader and one towards the follower? Any thoughts on both towards the follower or visa versa?

[mammalianmushroom]

@mikebarter387 What length of cord are you using for the Prussik? ( 5 Stars / Thumbs up )

[mikebarter387]

@mammalianmushroom length 5 or 6 meters Dia. 6 or 7 mil Seems to be the most common around here.

[whoreallygivesacrap]

Since it is friction based, a prusic may not work if the ropes get wet then freezes.

[PhilipZahnd]

@whoreallygivesacrap buy a dry rope

[whoreallygivesacrap]

@PhilipZahnd, I don't know what I was thinking, mountain climbing could never rain or freeze your ropes. I'll just buy a dry rope (great suggestion). That way I'm prepared in my mind but not in a real situation. Excellent idea, thanks! BTW, Tell your headmaster @ the University for Completely Lost Morons I said hello!

[framani159]

no asegura el prussik al mosqueton puede provocar accidentes

[Mateyhv1]

@framani159 El prusik simplemente se deja preparado, en caso de accidente del compañero sigue estando atado a él mediante el arnes y la cuerda, pero si decide desatarse la cuerda por la razón que sea para el rescate, entonces previamente se atará correctamente el prusik al arnes. Osea que lo lleva suelto porque se usa según la situación que se produzca.