Added: 4 years ago
From: LashoutUK
Views: 4,839
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  • find the motor we want and take the bastard their just going to ruin it anyways yeah cash for clunkers u freaking dumb retrded bastards perfectly good engines i would love to have yall just ruin them how retarded why not just sell them to people the engines instead of being idiots

  • im gonna bet ur oil pressure went up after restore its suppose to renew the bearings me and u should rob cash for clunkers im looking for a good 350 chevy engine right now 305 i dont care anything about 305 is pretty gutless when it comes to horsepower that oil pressure is excellent 80 pounds when u rev it im betting lucas will stop that ticking i use it and it does work for a fact it does everything they say on the bottle

  • engines on cash for clunkers people could use flat ass ruined becuz of idiots that pisses me off bigtime i hope a rod comes through the dash on those idiots whats that squeaking noise they make when they knock i never understood that

  • u have to run the restore for 1,000 miles for it to work they say i didnt know it wasnt cold sorry i thought u might of been sum1 on here doing that on purpose trying to blow it like on cash for clunker that is go freaking gay perfect engines ruined put a bottle of lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer in it that will for sure work i use that stuff mine was making a worse racket thatn that and it stopped it so it should for u

  • @robbie1674563 Don't get me started on cash for clunkers....that just seems so wasteful doesn't it. Hell, they should just rip the engine out (or let us rip them out!) for free and at least they'd get used, or people could learn on them, or they could get some kind of price or scrap value for them, instead of being all "Yea, let's be environmentally sound and write off these perfectly good engines that have already been made and been around for years"...........ARGGGG!

  • @robbie1674563 Don't get me started on cash for clunkers....that just seems so wasteful doesn't it. Hell, they should just rip the engine out (or let us rip them out!) for free and at least they'd get used, or people could learn on them, or they could get some kind of price or scrap value for them, instead of being all "Yea, let's be environmentally sound and write off these perfectly good engines that have already been made and been around for years"...........ARGGGG!

  • i meant do not red line it you know floor board im not telling u what to do or anything ive just seen sum1 do what ur doing and they threw a rod through the block its up to u what u do im not being a butt head either jus telling u what i seen if its tired u might try sum engine restore never know it may work

  • @robbie1674563 Hey no trouble, don't worry, wouldn't sit there bouncing it off the limiter - that would be a bit mental!

    I did try some of the engine restore stuff to flush the tappets through but at the end of the day they were still a bit noisy - but fortunately it doesn't affect performance much, and when you're on the move you don't notice it.

    There wasn't much in the way of sound deadening in this car and the engine was right up against the bulkhead so v. noisy in general!

    Cheers!

  • u keep revving that engine up like that in park and ur going to find out sumthing u dont wanna know throw a rod right through the block the way it sounds that ticking noise i wouldnt sit there and race it like that especially cold jus keep on revvin it you will see what happens jus a fair warning asking for a spun bearing or a rod through the block

  • @robbie1674563 Don't worry, it's not cold - that 'water' temp is actually oil temperature.

    Secondly, you'll never hurt a warm engine engine revving it with no load - despite what you might read on here or people will tell you.

    That ticking noise is nothing, just the usual chatter Rover V8's make after about 20 years of hard work - the hydraulic lifters get a bit tired :)

  • Thinking about it, that 'engine damage revving in neutral' is almost as bad as all those people who go around screaming "you'll burn your valves up" running with no exhaust manifolds. I don't know how some of that stuff perpetuates!

  • Prolly ok without one then, V8 is hardly a redline it constantly engine eh?! unlike the K series! :)

    Spits is progressing quite nicely, cheers. Been doing some major work last two weeks! Hopefully on the road mid June.

  • Oil cooler on it?

    60lbs is good on motorway, my mates Range Rover V8 had 35lbs hot at 3000 and about 10lbs at 800rpm! I think that was a bit shagged!

  • No, not at the moment. I'm going to test the oil temp gauge for accuracy and if it's dead on, leave it as is - oil temperature has never gotten above the 80-90 range which is acceptable.

    I might consider adding a little 13 row thermostatic one at some point though, as a backup or for track days!

    Going to go watch some of your Spit vids now, loved them the first time around! Great noise!

    Hope that's coming along well btw, K series for the win!

  • Ok, just seems a bit high for fully hot oil, 80psi, in any engine, being a Rover V8 an all....not usually rated for their high hot oil pressure potential...! Usually 80psi is only seen when oil is cool.

  • Aye - I thought the same myself! Even after doing 70 miles on the motorway in yesterday's heat, at 3000rpm, still reading 60lb, about 25lb at idle.

    It did have a new oil pump fitted prior to me purchasing it but given the previous owners motorsport inclinations and engineering skill I suspect the lump was in very good health, if not fettled with in some way!

  • It'll take atleast 30mins idling to warm up the oil fully and get a real reading, or alteast 10minutes on the road.

  • This is after about half an hours good thrash and restarting just after turning the engine off. Was a bit cooler that day, oil temperature is usually 70-90 when really warmed through - assuming, of course, that the gauge is accurate - an altogether different matter!

    It is a capillary one mind, as is the "water" (actually oil temperature) gauge.

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