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From: Lowes
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  • Paver patios and walkways are a great way to enhance the decor and value of a home. If a home looks really good it will sell much faster than one that doesn't.

  • Lowes opened its first store at 1085 Tanaka Court New Westminster, British Columbia, Canada.

  • That is something I recently started to write in my own blog =) If anyone is curious you can visit groundconstruction.blogspot.co­m However we do the same thing in a bit different way but in general it's the same.

  • Hi, I'm Troy McClure. You may remember me from other DIY videos such as "How to Dig a Hole," and, "Don't flush! That Toilet is clogged."

  • Do not listen to this guy.....he missed out on the most important parts. I'll make a video on the proper way to install paving stone, retaining walls ect. Base, base and base, the most important part, and he didn't tell you how thick. If your base is bad the pavers will go to shit ;)

  • hammer and chisel? if i were to do the 700 sf i did today like that id be there till next month.

  • dont you need cement for the finishing to hold it all tight?

  • @josh786manchester on the sides. use top sand on top of the paver

  • I hope you post more great job.

  • useless. he didn't explain the hardest and most important part, leveling the sand.

  • @CNova2010 There's a previous video in the series that explains how to do it. Go to the Lowes channel and look for "How to Lay the Foundation for a Patio or Walkway"

  • @CNova2010

    not even in the previous video "How to Lay the Foundation"

  • @CNova2010 he did explain leveling the sand! that was in the previous video

  • I have a very sloped back yard, I haven't measured it yet, but I'm sure it is lower than 1 inch every 4 feet, should I follow your rule? Or should I slope it with my backyard?

  • @eviltuna1912 you should make it so that it is equal length dept across the entire area of the patio.

    For example, when you are doing concrete, you set up barriers and perimeters that go along the entire boundary of your project, fill it with concrete and add water, flatten it out, and let it dry.

    Do whatever you have to do to make the sane level and then add the type of paver you want.

    If it is 1 inch lower in one area, only dig 5 inches in that area, etc. do not go with the grade.

  • I have a question. My concrete back patio is about 6" above the ground. I want to extend my patio out another 15' with bricks. Since my existing patio is already 6" high, do I still dig out a foundation and that would put my patio about a foot above my hole if I went flush went the bricks to the existing concrete patio? Would you just dig out a 6" hole and have the bricks flush with the ground and have a 6" drop off from the existing patio and the new patio?

  • NironDepot..com

  • This looks like a nice idea but house has a sloping away from the back of the house. So this might not be a good project but I would like to do something. maybe a small deck.

  • hot video, My solar electric system, at night, Our home has those 3 small wind turbines that go day OR night. Enjoyed the work.

  • Great starter ideas. Get complete ideas for outdoor living at The New American Landscape Channel. A great place for serious home DIY's and Professionals

  • toll_gÊbt_mÅl_bèÏ_goÖglë:_geld­easy_eïn_voll_kráss

  • Brilliant video 

  • this vidios are very helpful...now i think i can do it my self..

  • @kristen8205 - thanks for the advice, much appreciated! Just another quick question, should I tap the pavers in with a rubber mallet after I put them in or I just leave the job to the compactor. I have heard that tapping them in and then running the compactor over will create an uneven surface. True?? Thanks!

  • Got a quick questions for the pros here. I have a an area that's 2 meters wide and about 15 metres long. Now I know the slope should be 1/8 of an inch every foot, else the slope's going to be too obvious. But how do you make the slope. Is there some kind of setting on the plate compactor or you got to use the spirit level to somehow create a slope and then hope the compactor maintains the slope. Also another question, after I put the pavers in, should I tap them in with a rubber mallet at all?

  • @multicast11 just calculate the total amount of slope you need and measure down on your wood stake, tie a string showing the slope, and when you lay your sand ensure it follows the string

  • look this vid "The real carpentry ! (revised version)" and have fun ^^

  • IDIOTA!!!

  • Is the same guy from the RetroEncabulator?

  • 02:11, you dont need it! just keep installing pavers, at last when u finish install all the pavers use the plate compactor that fix all uneven pavers!!,and dont use the plastic retaining edge! set the edge whit concrete! 4 inchs! im 14 years experience!

  • I,m In NJ Little diff limate and soil conditions. pedestrian areas manufacturers recommend 4" all my projects have 6" of 3/4" Qp (3/4 stone down to fines) Base is what makes it last... I Use Geotextiles to seperate poor subsoils from base where needed. Sand is what makes it smooth to lay on and creates lock in pavers....Never more than 1" because excessive sand will cause movement problem... also you can google ICPI (paver industry org) . also DIY shows have you putting weed barrier down ????

  • 20 years of experience in installing pavers, millions of sq ft. There are several problems with this video. First of all you will notice that he drags the pavers into place(screwing his screed) as he is laying and adds sand under the low ones (If you screed properly pavers should Click N Drop in perfectly) If you find yourself having to level each paver your done anyway. Work to become the best at what you do,,,, So you can afford to hire the best when you need things done!!!!!

  • @UltimatePaverGuy

    Cool, being the pro you can answer this basic question that the video didn't. When using mixed tile dimensions like that how to you calculate the number of pavers of each size to buy? Say I've got a 10x34 patio to do and want to do the border like he has and the 6x6/6x9 pattern he shows.

  • @guomo

    Total square ft 10x34 =340 sq ft needed. Perimeter 88 lin ft. Border style = 6x9 Soldier Course (lining up side to side) .75 sq ft per lin ft= 66 Sq Ft border .

    Field area =274 Sq ft (340 total area -66 border) Including Waste =Field area +(Border lin ft *.25) =296

    If Field Pattern= 6x6,6x9 1 to 1 herringbone

    6x6 = 296 x.33333 = 99 Sq Ft

    6x9 = 296 x.66666 = 198 Sq Ft + 66 border = 264 sq ft

    Waste calcs assume that you will cut one side and swap cuts for the other. Else DBL

  • @guomo

    @guomo

    Total square ft 10x34 =340 sq ft needed. Perimeter 88 lin ft. Border style = 6x9 Soldier Course (lining up side to side) .75 sq ft per lin ft= 66 Sq Ft border .

    Field area =274 Sq ft (340 total area -66 border) Including Waste =Field area +(Border lin ft *.25) =296

    If Field Pattern= 6x6,6x9 1 to 1 herringbone

    6x6 = 296 x.33333 = 99 Sq Ft

    6x9 = 296 x.66666 = 198 Sq Ft + 66 border = 264 sq ft

    Waste calcs assume that you will cut one side and swap cuts . Else DBL

  • @guomo I there is no pattern in the field in the video it looks to be random so calc would be.

    Total Area of 340 - (Border lin ft of 88 * Border width of border as decimal ft .5) = Field Pattern sq ft =296 sq ft field, 44 sq ft border.

    anyway you understand from my last post (didnt realize he had sailor course border, end to end) with no pattern in field very hard to calc material needs other than just buying the Pavers and making it work.. Also should be buying by sq ft not piece.

  • @guomo

    first post assumes diff pattern. He has no pattern for field. So you must calc some sort of ratio and covert to sq ft.

    In the video the border looks ok, because you are looking at it from only on side(one of the perpedicular sides) It will appear not to have border on the other 2 sides as it will blend with field.. Looks much better in herringbone as borders stand out better. Most people will tell you to leave a 5-10% of waste. Wrong!!!!! Waste is an attribute of perimeter lin ft

  • @guomo

    Hope that you could read that. just in a rush!!!! Thanks,

  • @guomo Square ft to pieces Calcs Pattern sizes 6x6= 36 square inches 6x9=54 sqaure inches 1 to 1 pattern size = 90 sq inches of that 6x6 = 36/90= 40% 9x9= 54/90=60% so a 2 6x6 to 1 6x9 Pattern would be 36x2=72 sq inches 54x1=54 sq inches total of 126 sqaure inches 72/126= 57% 54/126=43 % calculate sq ft needed and divide by piece size 300 sq ft =300*144=43200 sq inches /6x6 size 36 sq inches= 1200 pcs mlast post % were wrong. have excel sheet that calcs this stuff sorry
  • @UltimatePaverGuy

    Thanks so much for the info. This calculation makes sense and in fact I fell back to calculating by sq. in. instead of sq. ft. because the mix of pavers as you suggested.

    What are your thoughts/experiences by the on how much underlayment is needed? Web articles say 4 inches of type 2 and 1 inch of sand. When I was pricing materials, the supply place said 2 inches of sand minimum. No much rain in Las Vegas, so drainage isn't critical. What are the benefits of deeper sand?

  • @guomo

    Probably need less base in Vegas. But dont use more than an inch of sand..

    Base calculation= ((area X depth) X 1.25 Compaction factor)/27 for cubic yards.

    1 cubic yard = approx 1.45 tonns

    Compaction and base depth is where the costly mistakes are made..

    Compact both subbase and base well and your patio will last long time..

    think probably your soils in vegas alot stabler than mine

  • i did this in my living room

  • I never wear gloves while cutting with a saw! If the gloves get caught in the blade things can get bad real quick...

  • I gave up. Not my fortay

  • Nice paddio Daddio!!!

  • HOME DEPOT SUCKS!!!!!!!!

  • he's so charismatic!!!

  • How about next time you put in edge restraint, you tell people to shovel away excess bedding sand along the border course, put the edge restraint on the base material and not on top of the bedding sand. Thats a good recipe for washout and your border pavers will sink to the sides.

    And show us all how to use polymeric sand instead of bedding sand for the joints, oh paver god.

  • @ctc1111 

  • I do not recommend sloping away from the house 1 inch for every 4 feet as many DIY sites will tell you. I suggest 1/8 inch per every foot. Going with the 1" per 4-foot formula creates an extremely obvious slope over a long space (16' patio = 4" slope top to bottom). To the eye, this simply looks like a mistake, and I believe it is. Use 1/8th per foot over longer patios- you'll be much happier with the outcome.

  • @ScottRimell You seem to know your stuff so I'll ask you a question if you don't mind. I have an OLD gravel walk way in my back yard, I tried digging it up years ago and it has a tarp underneath could I just lay sand on this and put pavers on it? Or do I have to dig the whole area up and redo everything from scratch? I wouldn't mind as I want to do everything from the bottom up, but digging that large red rock gravel is a bitch.

  • hey that was handy thanx!!!!!

  • how do u relate this to geometry can anyone help before the 12 of june 2010

  • Always leave space between the patio and the foundation if you live in a area where the weather is severe in the winter. Otherwise the stone will crack the foundation.

  • @kmanahov

    your nuts and clueless, the stones/pavers sit on a gravel base.

  • cover the surface with sand before running the plate compactor. The sand will buffer the metal plate.

  • Using a stanley level? I don't think so. They make worthless tools. You never ever use a stanley level.

  • speed suare

  • Okay, I am a female here doing it myself on a 25' x 23' patio for a fire pit area. I just have to say, DO NOT use that hand tamper!! Go to your local tool rental place and rent a tamper machine! It should be about $50.00 for 24 hours. Also, they are not showing you proper steps here. You should have at least 4 inches of CR-6...Lay 1" and tamper, do this until it is all tampered down. Then a thin layer of sand on top of this. Then lay pavers. Follow these steps.

  • what is that triangle tool called again? Sla...??

  • @atinylittlething Yes, the triangular tool is a speed square or, sometimes called a framing square. It's just a glorified straight-edge - an easy way to draw 90-degree and 45-degree angles.

  • edgins should have been concreted in first so the pavers cant spread plus the sand should be sweeped in then compacted to lock the blocks washing the sand in thats ridiculous

  • @middlemanclayton you dont need to concrete the edge...it should be on level with the grass.

    Its ridiculous to use sand under the pavers. use stone dust and use sand at teh end before compacting

  • @stiffler676 Where I live it is very inexpensive to get crushed limestone (also called 3/4" - to - dust) that is used in roadwork. My plan is to use that first, tamp it, and then just put about 1/2" of sand on top of it to give me some play-room when levelleing the stones. stiffler, is that what you are talking about when you say "stone dust"?

  • @mediamannaman

    no, the base should be a more coarse stone, if the limestone is thicker crusher thats fine as a base. I don't know what people do out there but i dont like the idea of 2 inches of sand becuase itll wash away if its not poly sand that will get hard. Use stone dust, which is smaller crushed up crusher basically but it compacts better than sand...you use 2 poles to level it and lay on that. then you put poly sand in the cracks and tamp again.

  • @mediamannaman stone dust is used to level not sand...here will be too much movement i fear using sand. Use Stone, then 3/4 inch stone dust. Put the pavers down then glue sand it tamp it and wet it down. I've done patios 7 years ago and none have moved. They all settle but not to the point where its uneven.

  • Wooow this is great! I'm definitely planning to do something like this soon for my backyard...

  • @Xuvial Great Eh? If you let Lowes brainwash you & other homeowners, of course its great for them! Hire a reputable interlock contractor in your area!

  • you could learn from our videos too. Lowes videos are good learning videos.

  • top job

  • nice  patio cool!!!!@@#$%^&*()

  • My question is what kind of edging do you use when you are building a patio up against a chain link fence? Thanks

  • dont build it all the way to the fance. leave yourself some room. You wont be able to get any edge in there

  • The polymeric sand is more expensive (between $15 and $30 per bag) but will save you a ton of maintenance in the future.

  • 2. After all the pavers have been layed you'll want to tamp, sand and then tamp. This step only applies to pavers that are over 2" in thickness and it helps to force the dry sand down into the joints and lock all the individual pavers together, hence the term 'interlocking stone'.

    3. Don't just use any old sand for the joint in the pavers. Use a polymeric sand that will harden to help prevent ants and weeds, as well as many other great benefits.

  • A few common mistakes were shown in this video that are common to many DIY patio instructions.

    1. Don't bother 'tapping down' high pavers as the plate tamper will take care of this for you. In fact by 'taping' some pavers and not others, you will be creating a scenario for differential settleling in the future.

  • I'm so inspired. I want to go out and build a patio and deck. This was awesome!!

  • The other videos said to leave space by the house for drainage.

  • Used this tutorial to put in my slate patio this weekend. 1st timer with a patio and it looks great! Finished in 1 weekend.

  • can i put these pavers over a concrete deck ????? Like just on top of the concrete ??

  • You sure can! It's a better base than gravel. As long as it's sound and not "moving." You can even build it up with paver base on top of the concrete if necessary.

  • One problem, I have never seen a Lowes in Maryland with a Rental Center...only Home Depot!

    But the video was very helpful, thanks!

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