Indoor Rock Climbing Basics : Tips for Indoor Rock Climbing Holds

[lemonsnlimes333]

this guy really sucks as a teacher

[fylyp969]

so he just tells me that I should grab them as hard as I can?

WOW THANK YOU!

[shlep444]

On slopers i fond that if i can get my elbow just above the top of them, i can wrap my arm over the top of them and have my fingers underneath like a duck neck

[ninafrusciante1]

thanks, it's helpful

[Arkansasmntkid]

that scares me...he said he had a hard time cause he is a bigger guy, i am watching this thinking about getting into rock climbing and every one i see is small...im 6' 2" 268 lbs, his comment has greatly discouraged me.

[budsAok420]

@Arkansasmntkid the beautiful thing about people is we are all different. what is hard for one may not be so hard for another. that being said you are a pretty big dude and it may be more difficult for you. however just cuz its difficult doesnt mean you cant do it. climbing is hard for everybody. you dont just take off right away. but if you put you mind to it and stay commited you will see progression an that should give you the motivation to continue if you want to do so. happy climbing

[0ukami]

@Arkansasmntkid Diet and start running to put down some of that weight. Height isn't too much of an issue until you get up to around 6'4 or 5, in fact, a lot of reaches will be much easier for you. You could just reach for some things that other people have to dyno or do figure 4's to reach, which makes you a lot safer. But, if I were you, I'd definitely try to drop some of that weight, don't lift weights too much, and just focus on endurance and cardio. You'll be set.

[Arkansasmntkid]

@0ukami thanks man...i been on it for the past couple weeks.

[TheExtremeOutdoors]

I like to hold jugs too

[ca18pack]

foot chip

[NeveroddoreveN88]

Wish I had hair like that

[MohammadX101]

learning the basics of rock climbing is an absolute must for those who think might end up in Hell. hell is not flat and has a very challenging terrain. we may find ourselves descending the grand canyon to get to the boiling water at the bottom but the lower we go the hotter the rocks will get.So, we'll have to drink and get back to the top asap. the more water we carry, the higher the chances of falling back down, add to this the fact that some of the "holds" are glowing hot rocks.It's Hell

[coaxial00]

@MohammadX101 what

[Guitarplayer22222]

@MohammadX101 either your really high, or that was an epic troll.

[Arkansasmntkid]

@MohammadX101 wow

[emeryjve]

By bigger I'm pretty sure he meant tall. The guy is probably 6'4". Saw him at the place today.

[gitsandshiggles22]

why is there a jug that close to the floor anyway?

[dandotreillydot42058]

@gitsandshiggles22 good point

[bigsexypanda]

@gitsandshiggles22 Maybe a two-hand start it looks like a bouldering wall

[MrButerfinger]

@gitsandshiggles22 to force a sit-start?

[thebrain678]

his favorite holds the jug lol

[Thomasikzelf]

he talks about the open grip, but he grabs the hold with a closed grip :S

[rogue8853]

"because im a bigger guy" ?? im a noob and dont get the terminalogy yet what does this mean in rock climbing?

[tsjca213]

@rogue8853 bigger = heavier = more gravity to pull him down to the floor, he needs a bigger hold.

[mafiaadiga1]

What happened to your hair???

[citybeachfremont]

where is your favorite place to climb inside or out?

[rebuttal4ptO]

and pockets

[egos999]

JUGS are my favourite types of holds anyday! HAHAHAH

[lollydooda123]

this is gr8! im an expert in climbing and he really knows what he is talking about... i teach my students the exact same!

[ziggymain94]

where is this at?

[armoredpelican]

@ziggymain94

this is in Tampa FL, really awesome place with really awesome people.

[littlemiu]

i learn some basic climbing knowledge from clips made by you guy, i much appreciate ur effort and patience for making clips whose contents may sound simple to u!

great help for beginners!

[vkelsov]

He forgot to mention that crimps can blow out the flexer tendons in your fingers if your not in shape for it, tendons need work just like muscles.

[608Climbing]

Plastic holds suck. They wear out in a month. They grease up and you always have to buy new ones. If you want good custom clay holds that have real friction and feel like real sandstone. Go to Boulders climbing gym in Madison, WI they have almost all clay holds. OR search for nuclimbing on facebook

[vkelsov]

@608Climbing Or you have to brush every hold you want to use. My local gym can't afford clays so they will get volunteers to pull all the holds off one section every 3-6 months and will brush them at floor level.

[608Climbing]

@vkelsov Thats true. Nevermind nuclimbing. its not a company anymore. If you can find cheap clay you could shape your own holds. You just need to find a kiln to fire them in.

[Magyar126]

anyone recoommed the rock climbing training hanging board?

[bishouji]

@Magyar126 Hey I realize your post was about a month ago, but if youre still interested in it. I would highly recommend it. It will definitely increase over all stamina plus strength in the fingers. Great training when you dont feel like going out to the gym.

[Magyar126]

ive been told im very good for a beginner i can climb a 50 foot wall in a matter of a minutes, but i never knew how to hold the big ones.

[traverpen]

@Magyar126 well I can climb a 50' wall with a beer:)

[cesnapilot]

@traverpen nice, while smoking too, right :D

[clarkey1009484]

how he held the crimp - with thumb over the fingers - is the worst technique, it opens up so much room for ligament damage over time, you really want to hold it open handed.. otherwise, nice vid :) just watch out.

[vkelsov]

@clarkey1009484 your talking about a half-crimp right? Full crimps with thumb over are very hard on ligaments and tendons but the level of friction imparted is unbelievable.

[clarkey1009484]

@vkelsov Yeah thats true, it is. but its always best to learn the correct way, then only use the thumb over technique, when you just cant manage open handed.

[dreamera1]

dude hes wrecked. i have no muscles

[Yanizzzo]

What about pocket?

[SebastianDudesTipleS]

@sbowesuk you should climb half way down first

[sbowesuk]

@SebastianDudesTipleS Climb halfway down? Nah, the obvious solution is to just make sure the person belaying isn't a clueless idiot and actually knows how to lock a rope down. Problem solved.

[clownfish710]

this guy taught me to clime irl. lol

[CobraRAStog21]

@clownfish710 whoa, climb. maybe?

[clownfish710]

@CobraRAStog21 lol

[signevent]

These were actually very helpful, basic tips for indoor climbing! Sometimes when you get in there they don't teach the basics!

[noneactive]

The "jug(s)" is my favorite hold too.

[elshaketz]

when the video started the dude`s face scared the crap out of me

[HabboGuy5]

nice hair weirdo.

[vanpiercy]

Which douchebag decided to have the subtitle graphic covering the entire video?!!! 'Expert Village'? More like Amateur Village!!!

[PattysonONE]

cause hes a bigger guy..lol

[donnywal]

@PattysonONE : lmao

[nopainogain]

@PattysonONE i know right? he weighs like 155. I'm 211lbs and 5'9" i know big guy climbing difficulty. still love the sport. beats me like a stepchild every workout.

[dakaraius]

I'm starting a climbing course in Oct so these videos to grasp the basics are perfect. Thanks.

[jonnyboy0767]

the subtitles are realllyyyyy off timing

[naval8viator]

@psjk1979 You need to ask the setters. In my gym they set every grade assuming that you will use every part of the wall unless its specifically taped off. It all depends on how the setter sees the route or problem.

[Jinz007]

i think this is a clip showing u how to grab a girls tits

[SirYawnsalot]

Damn those all-state ads are funny!

[bakeee]

expert villiage really has the tendency to make long videos, cut them into small and post them on youtube. WTF, WHY? i dont wanna search through the damn video list to find the next video... just make a 10 minute video, god dammit. I KNOW THE REASON THEY DO THIS IS FOR MOONNEEYY.

[inadggirl]

soo cool you teaching all this basic stuff

[monkeydrumdye]

@psjk1979 dont worry man, youre allowed to use the wall, its called flat smearing. if youre using the edge of the wall or the top or any other "feature" theyre usually only allowed if the climb says so.

[Hestroffer]

he looks like he just did some crack

[guatahala]

@Hestroffer

If he has to work for expervillage, he probably did.

[ohdamnitst]

@psjk1979 the wall itself is on.

[dinkydau444]

I agree, expertvilliage sucked on this one... Who the hell tells a beginner to wrap their thumb on a crimp! That's a terrible idea and will lead to injury. Work up your strength with open an open handed grip until you are sending moderate problems (V3 - V5) Then start using the thumb on the crimp. If I had waited a little longer to use my thumb I would be a much stronger crimp climber than I currently am.

[qamarep]

is this game or hobby.. any competitions in this

[kuikai100]

a++++++++++

[martinmedeski]

i never remember to wrap thumbs round, is it really that important?

[johnnnycassh]

@martinmedeski apparently it helps. Am still struggling with those

[realcampusman]

all those holds are jugs

[kevinwadeheat]

i kept skiping through the video and he said clit, pinch and jugs

[luv4mybffl]

Reallly helpful...awesome....I wish u went over more though :)

[sweetheart555ify]

im so sad now i have to wait 12 months and 17 days just to go rock climbing just a stupid doctors appoimment

[1bakai1]

clit? dude you have way too much time on your hands.

[mikemehevic]

he does say clit i slowed it down on my computer! ahahahahah!

[noon0788]

Does he start out with "In this clit"?!

[pacman529]

what the hell is going on with that dude's hair?!

[matau25]

lol that's climbers for you! my cousin used to look like that... actually his hair still does (he's a rock climber) ... its a 90's thing. :)

[flashnizmfree]

a bird live in it

[pacman529]

i would not be surprised!

[Poobel]

ahahaha lol

[yomattieT]

You can find "foot chips" as hand holds. There is a indoor route at a wall that is made up of them I think its a 7b+.

[Radyr91]

Dude. If u ask me slopers can hold better if u hold them like edges. (crimps)

[guhmoose]

heh heh heh, im going rock climbing today, ill use that sloper technique

[huyiy]

"i really have a hard time with these coz im a big guy" lame excuse.

[lewistewart2]

hmmm. he didnt tell us about sharks teeth

[zeljkoserbiagreece]

I have just joined a climbing club,yay me!!!

[jrox007]

and no one "likes" juggs, you can't get better climbing big ass holds like that =\

[maggus1983]

expertvillage = crap videos

[abw82]

should rename it to villageidiot

[jrox007]

agreed, and they have so many god damn climbing videos grrrrrr!

[cjdrover]

agreed. wonderful idea to be telling beginners to use a closed crimp. i'm sure none of them will blow out pulley tendons.

[RANGONO]

whats a pulley tendon?

[Mentradi]

@RANGONO The stings in your fingers are hold close to the bone by ligament "rings". A beginner has quite thin rings and can there for over use them. This case pain if you puss just by the joints. If the pressure gets to high one or more rings may snap and the string will not be as close to the bone any more. If to many rings are broken then you have to use surgery to fix them. So be car full with close crimp.

[poochock2212]

i think it's good for him to show us how to grab on to different kinds of molds. give the poor guy a break!

[benrweston]

holds*

[Rushmonkeys]

Sweet.  Good to know some specific techniques. Hopefully we'll be able to put them to use soon!

[Soundgarden8497]

what a fag haha

[Fahmed2880]

YEAH JUGGS!!

[pocketpupsnet]

Thanks for the video series. Pretty decent video and sound quality.

[DaanKorteweg]

His hair is f*cked up man

[Dave1507]

what´s the sense of knowing the names of the holds?

[QuieroGuerra]

In certain circles lurks a bizarre individual who goes by the name of Mr. Fart...

[azbodach]

40 years of climbing owned a couple of gyms and this is NOT a good lesson. the first hold was jug not pinch, the second was a standard gripe hold opposing finger and thumb. a crip is aboutn an 1/8th of an inch and just more than fingernails. Gym climbing does not have much to do with the holds in the first place. It is all about your feet and balance not fingers and strength. Only when it gets really hard to your hands count.

[naterd00d]

no he actually has it right

they call the big ones jugs because its like holding a jug.

[wulfy2001]

you are so right... the boy needs a lesson or tow...

[elgagalari]

you may be correct man, but as other people already commented, what's the point in knowing the names? I mean, you just have to know how to grap them isn't it? No offense though

[kmfdmwill]

Climbing involves a lot of slang. That new people don't know. When giving instruction telling people to lean into that side crimp and slap tha slopper ain't gonn do much unless they know the terminology.

[gregarioushand]

I LOVE CLIMBING!!! ive met leo houlding ^_^ ENVY ME!!!

[Brucemclachlan]

Mew mew mew, these don't help anyone but rookies

You know what? Some of us 'rookies' like them because elitest clique tossers like you refuse to do anything but sneer at newcomers

You think these videos suck? Put this awesome climbing 'wisdom' of yours where your fat mouth is and make some that are better

At least this guy is doing something and I've found numerous little hints and tips throughout these clips that have helped

Not every intro class covers EVERYTHING about climbing.

[GymCoachEmma]

@Brucemclachlan well said. It's not called "climbing basics" for nothing!

[IC3M4NX]

@Brucemclachlan

While some people are pretentious assholes, the main problem that many experienced climbers have with Expert Village are that their videos offer advice that if used directly, will lead to VERY unsafe climbing, especially regarding outdoor climbing and the setting up of anchors. Climbing is one of those things that really can't be taught (except for rope management and anchors). To climb better, you have to climb more, not follow video tutorials.

[elshaketz]

@Brucemclachlan you are not going to learn SHIT from videos or book or lessons or anything, the BEST way to learn the moves is getting on the rock climb and FALL, and then try again and again and again.

Experiences is the BEST teacher bro

[dozentrio]

@elshaketz But it would have taken me a while to think of hooking my thumb over the hold to get the better grip. This was helpful, shortens my learning curve.

[CobraRAStog21]

@elshaketz fuckin' totes my bro.

[FlashingFountain]

@Brucemclachlan for real. I joined a gym today and the dude was just like "good luck". no lesson. no nothing.

[elcapiblanco]

i am sorry but these types of lesson videos are really not good...they dont help anything for rookies...better go to a rock or to the indoor rock climbing gym and test it ourself, you will find your own way and thats the best one!

[MidgardEagle]

0:19 - not that I'm in any way an expert, but aren't you supposed to grip those things from the underside?

[MaxieNator]

yes you right,

[613themacs]

You're thinking of an undercling...for a sloper, you need to use as much skin contact with the rock as you can to keep friction...it also helps to stay low and keep your weight close to the wall.

It's not too often that you'll find a sloper that you'll want to grip on the underside to stay on.

[drogoth25]

how would that help you?

[tisaacso3625]

that first hold needed more chalk.

[promqueensdead]

mid case of wolverine-itis goin on with the hair do.. just use ur claws to climb brother

[ashegam]

Jugs are my favorite too, love to hold on to them with both hands

[jimbo9203]

what's up with his hair?

[bertstbernard]

i have a ladder if anyone wants to borrow it...

[Tydler1992]

lol crimp the foot hold like a sucker lol and feel the pain =D thats the future of climbing

[SA1NTDUFF]

this is a good video

ty

[rammsteinpyro]

where is this place

[alexander9699]

rocknasium in davis CA

[jlcalabr]

Verticle Ventures

Tampa, Florida

I go there this place is great

[omgitstroy]

See all 138490 videos this guy has no life........

[axollot]

This is his business Some people golf he rock climbs and owns an indoor rock climbing place.

Not many people can say they love their job imagine if you were paid to do your sport/hobby of choice instead of some boring mediocre office job. And anyway most people who work full time have no life as it is & most cant say honestly they love their job & would continue in it if they won the lotto. Not 2 B confused w/continuing 2 wrk for ones self etc.

[rebe12354]

Yes I like jugs too. See his face he pauses I love jugs. I think all us guys do!!

[jackwen2nd]

where is that place

[love2climb92]

gahh i was trying to respond to the whinwhinnproductions person anyways good luck!!

btw this video is retarded

[snuffydoug]

wow this was really useless

[dtfan888]

somebod needs to brush the chalk off those holds dude

[WhinWhinnProductions]

i just made a climbing gym in my room,

i dont have any jugs yet, i'm going to put a beam in my roof to strengthen it so i can put big holds on the ceiling.

[puppetmaster101]

thats awesome can you post a video oor pictures of it?? That would be cool and im kinda thinging of doing the same thign

[WhinWhinnProductions]

i will when its finished, and when my room is tidy, it will probably be dont in April sometime. my wall has a cool feature that i think i have invented... there are 5 hooks in the wall and 5 hooks on the plywood, this means that it is supported by the wall not the ceiling BUT, because there is one long bit of rope threaded through all of them, i can simply loosen it and differ the angle that the wall leans! i then tie the rope with a half turn and two half hitches and climb!

[tomdeaap]

im sorry, but my climbing gym has something similar for quite a while :P, if you've thought of it yourself however, nice! :P

[WhinWhinnProductions]

that makes two of us now!

i usually leave mine at about a 20-30 degree lean or else my fingers dont get enough excersize

[love2climb92]

that is the coolest idea ive ever heard!!!!

[danielwa2]

bigger guy? you look like a goblin on crack... hahaha

[ddiimmee]

guy you look like Clint Eastwood (when he was 20).

-----

what exercise can i do to get better arm/hand/finger muscules

[RHCPxc]

To state the obvious... rock climb. Don't forget back muscles too, lots of pull-ups will help for that.

[MidgardEagle]

Taking an introductory course will help, too. Here in Norway you need a license called a "steep card" (brattkort) to climb in indoor facilities, rent gear, etc. You get this "steep card" by taking an introductory course, or by demonstrating to an instructor that you know the basics of climbing, safety, equipment checks, falls, etc. etc. I think it's a good system.

But yes, there's no way to learn like experience:)!

[Syst3m04]

There's also rails, finger pockets, gastons, sidepulls and underclings, think that's all.

[cyborgtroy]

This whole thing is informative but really wrong-looking :D

[Blankwarrior]

this guy is my worst nightmare

[axisatrocity]

This is the Tampa FL gym, ya?

[MaxieNator]

you also have athing with hols WTF hihi how do i yuse that

[jakeman52]

plz speak more clearly and the holes are to put the grips in or in your languagr.teh olesh r fro teh gripes lawl

[snounds]

thats what she said

[trance150]

ya keep climbing

[huyiy]

what about finger pockets

[heyalain]

Well done videos...

Keep up these nice learning segments!

[thelosthikers]

I sort of went rock climbing at the desert breeze park. It sucks 'cause the holds were all loose. Its really HARD, any advice on how to climb?

[philytheking]

ya i have some sejestions