propably it was a 30€ piece: the overvoltage protection relais. This causes high rpm and bad response form the engine. Its controll unit is then switched off...
The OVP could be a problem but also check your air flow meter's potentiometer. If the OVP is bad the ICV will force the car to idle high, so sometimes just replacing the ICV isn't going to solve this problem.
Also, make sure you check all of your vacuum lines for cracks.
nah mate, though some good responses in these comments. in the end my mechanic rebuilt the whole thing and replace the KE jet manifold with a K jet manifold. it will soon be going in my 1983 G wagen. regards
first hi emm i can not god speking english but i am car mechaniker and i commingf from germany you car have a wrong air did ypou now wrong air has you car
looks like u got high rpm at idle.i would check all the vacuum hoses coming from the intake manifold first to see if they are broken or kinked most likel broken hence tampering with ur air fuel mixture.this will give u a rough and higher idling.good luck m8
it must be the relais for the overvoltage... if the fuse is ok it doesn't mean the relais is... it is near the relais of the fuel pump. exchange that one and it will be fine (if u mean the high idle rpm)
thanks Jas for input. i still havent fixed this bloody problem. i dont think timing chain either as wouldnt it be at all engine revs? i reckon its also electrical. the engine will be coming out of the car soon for a rebuild, maybe something mechanical will show up then!
heh S2H, the mechanic tried lowering the fuel mixture. its didnt fix the problem but often stalled out! as i nioted, i think its coz someone chopped the heck out of the cats. regardless, i bought another 500 and am going to fit K jet (not the KE) to eliminate this system!
the mechanic had a look at the car, which used to evidently be have catalytic converter. someone has chopped this off as well as other components which may not have needed to come off (such as CO2 sensor?) which are the likely cause in his opinion
This car is fuel injected. That miss may be a fuel pressure issue. Remove your injectors and clean them. They are like brass nozzles and not the electronic type so they can be cleaned. High idle could be a vacuum leak which could also cause the engine to run rough.
man it could be the throttle body notice ur car is carburator try going for air cause is not electrical cause if it was ur car would have been fucked alredy and umm if it was gas wouldnt run so try just concentrating on air part for this kind of problem like i said check the throttle body and everything included time chain migth be abother thing to check for and i dunt think is an internal engine porblem cause if sumthing was broken like a piston rod or piston it would have been noticed already
just did throttle body sensor, air intake temp sensor, injector insulator and seals, fuel distributor o-ring...no difference, in fact it seems a bit worse!
UPDATE. now done basics; engine oel, trans oel/filter, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, ignition leads. hell of a lot smoother but pulsing still there and lack of power still noticeable. mate reckons examine throttle position sensor which is next on the cards
Sanayiye Göstert Bence
tuny41 6 months ago
dich the k jet, get megasquirt, let all the horses out to play
gixerthou57 1 year ago
You Scrapped It!?!?!?!?!?!
mercedesbenzformula1 1 year ago
propably it was a 30€ piece: the overvoltage protection relais. This causes high rpm and bad response form the engine. Its controll unit is then switched off...
straight2hell666 2 years ago
+1 on the idle control valve (ICV) could be getting stuck or receiving a poor signal from your intake air temperature sensor (IAT)
viggoM35 2 years ago
maybe u should say something about where the sound comes from...
assholebjorn 2 years ago
sounds like your driving on a flat tire
ciller1985 2 years ago
The OVP could be a problem but also check your air flow meter's potentiometer. If the OVP is bad the ICV will force the car to idle high, so sometimes just replacing the ICV isn't going to solve this problem.
Also, make sure you check all of your vacuum lines for cracks.
Good luck!
drewprof 2 years ago
Same prob here did you fix it?
RasterHacker 2 years ago
nah mate, though some good responses in these comments. in the end my mechanic rebuilt the whole thing and replace the KE jet manifold with a K jet manifold. it will soon be going in my 1983 G wagen. regards
w116036 2 years ago
its maby shitty oiled air filter who fuckt up air flow messurment thing, low oil or shit in the air regulator, nut'n an idiot cant find out of
eirimad 2 years ago
first hi emm i can not god speking english but i am car mechaniker and i commingf from germany you car have a wrong air did ypou now wrong air has you car
MrSezer74 2 years ago
looks like u got high rpm at idle.i would check all the vacuum hoses coming from the intake manifold first to see if they are broken or kinked most likel broken hence tampering with ur air fuel mixture.this will give u a rough and higher idling.good luck m8
sombongi 2 years ago
thats the idle control valve trust me just done mine common problem on the 500 or 560 w126
keabot 2 years ago
it must be the relais for the overvoltage... if the fuse is ok it doesn't mean the relais is... it is near the relais of the fuel pump. exchange that one and it will be fine (if u mean the high idle rpm)
straight2hell666 2 years ago
check the relais for the ecu i often had problems with this relais at w124 w126 w140
jason19on81tour 2 years ago
@ w123boy please stop talkin such an bullshit
it is not the timing chain,i guess it´s the relais for the ecu
jason19on81tour 2 years ago
thanks Jas for input. i still havent fixed this bloody problem. i dont think timing chain either as wouldnt it be at all engine revs? i reckon its also electrical. the engine will be coming out of the car soon for a rebuild, maybe something mechanical will show up then!
w116036 2 years ago
I kno how to solve this if u r interested... I lowered the RPM of mine to 500 to 450 Rpm Idle... plz pm me
straight2hell666 3 years ago
heh S2H, the mechanic tried lowering the fuel mixture. its didnt fix the problem but often stalled out! as i nioted, i think its coz someone chopped the heck out of the cats. regardless, i bought another 500 and am going to fit K jet (not the KE) to eliminate this system!
w116036 3 years ago
i did have the same problem, ce300 run at 1100rpm becose the sensor did not get the signal that i was off the gas.. so check the that.
aaltot 3 years ago
check the sensor at endings or the trotle
aaltot 3 years ago
the mechanic had a look at the car, which used to evidently be have catalytic converter. someone has chopped this off as well as other components which may not have needed to come off (such as CO2 sensor?) which are the likely cause in his opinion
w116036 3 years ago
This car is fuel injected. That miss may be a fuel pressure issue. Remove your injectors and clean them. They are like brass nozzles and not the electronic type so they can be cleaned. High idle could be a vacuum leak which could also cause the engine to run rough.
aalabbasi 3 years ago
man it could be the throttle body notice ur car is carburator try going for air cause is not electrical cause if it was ur car would have been fucked alredy and umm if it was gas wouldnt run so try just concentrating on air part for this kind of problem like i said check the throttle body and everything included time chain migth be abother thing to check for and i dunt think is an internal engine porblem cause if sumthing was broken like a piston rod or piston it would have been noticed already
perpetual774 3 years ago
this is the timing chain for sure, u should change that or ur engine will collapse, nice car dude
w123boy 3 years ago
@w123boy your retarded....
ubuntunoobz 1 year ago
Have you checked the ignition wiring? After nearly two decades, the ignition cables may already be pretty bad.
Does the car reach its maximum speed when the engine is warm? (Are you living in a country where you can try it out?)
Beethoven80 3 years ago
just did throttle body sensor, air intake temp sensor, injector insulator and seals, fuel distributor o-ring...no difference, in fact it seems a bit worse!
w116036 3 years ago
UPDATE. now done basics; engine oel, trans oel/filter, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, ignition leads. hell of a lot smoother but pulsing still there and lack of power still noticeable. mate reckons examine throttle position sensor which is next on the cards
w116036 3 years ago
never seen anything like this. :/
simon1234simon 3 years ago