Added: 3 years ago
From: TheWoodWhisperer
Views: 87,690
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:
see all

All Comments (27)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • So many good tips as always, you're my workshop guru!

    You've got a really engaging way of making the videos easy to watch.

  • I add a piece of snug fitting scrap wood in the mitre slot and then push the fence against it. Then do the adjustments to the fence, works every time and is quick, also if you keep the scrap wood you can check the fence every month of so. But I guess everyone as there own way.

  • Have you ever found that the parallel tolerance stack-up that comes from adjusting the fence to the slot, which was adjusted to the blade, could result in chatter?

  • @454Casull Not in my experience, no.

  • everytime i see ur shop, it brings a tear 2 my eye..its so beautiful!..Excuse Me!! *sniFfle* (turns head, fights back tears)

  • Learned a couple things here, but have something I'd love you to try. I've found that intentionally setting the fence up to be about 5/1000 wider at the outfeed end makes for far less blade chatter.

  • having the blade, fence and mitre slot perfectly parallel is ok for some operations BUT 90% of the time the NO HEEL set-up is better.. this is the mitre slot on the left drifts away from the blade at the back and the fence drifts away on the right... this is very little, maybe a thou or two.. it stops the back of the blade rubbing on the "keeper" side of the cut..

  • Clear, concise and to the POINT! That was an excellent presentation.

  • Best way to adjust biesemeyer style fence is to slide the fence over to the edge of a miter slot and align fence face to flat inside of miter slot. Use finger to feel the difference from front to back of slot to fence and if aligned perfectly it should feel as if were one plane. Your finger can feel the difference of a paper thickness which is about 2 thousands inch. Stick to the left miter slot for all adjustments including the blade adjustments as left to right slot may not always be parallel

  • If you leave the out-feed end of the fence a fraction away from the blade and measure your cut from in-feed end of the blade where the fence is slightly closer it will prevent snipe at the end of the wood.

  • @BradburyGuy If you do that you will cut a taper. The reason you are getting snipe is because the fence is closer to the blade at the back of the cut. If the blade is parallel to the miter slot you won't get snipe.

  • @bobmedic3214 That's actually not accurate. If the fence is just a hair further from the blade at the back, it won't create a taper. The wood follows the fence, not the blade. This method is commonly used to get cleaner cuts and decrease the chance of kickback. But you only want to be a difference of a few thousandths.

  • @TheWoodWhisperer True if it's only a few thousandths. If it is too far away the blade will pull the workpiece away from the fence like drift on a band saw. I love the videos keep up the good work I have learned a lot from watching them.

  • I believe Freud makes calibration discs / blades which are precision ground blades with no teeth. They are very inexpensive. They are nice to use for alignment and squaring. I use mine all the time. Also note that not every table saw table and miter slot are created equal. Time and temperature can change things

  • I love your videos. Very easy to follow and you shop is amazing from what i could see in the backrounds. I'm a custom boatbuilder by trade and I always learn something new everytime i see these videos.

  • Great video! Thank you. Do you have any tips for adjusting steel wings? I fear a dead blow hammer will overadjust. The steel wings on my new JET saw are also a bit flimsy.

  • @jbmccord I would probably use the same technique. Snug up the bolts and give a few taps with the dead blow.

  • Very clear, clean explainations! I see upgrades in my future - thank You!!

  • Excellent explanation if you want to stick with straight edge, square at 90 and 45 degrees giving quick reliable results. There are, however more precise measurement methods (e.g., the A-LINE-IT basic system) with dial indicator and a base that slides in the miter slot.

  • Excellent, 11 minutes well used...

  • again thanks

  • do u have any tips on keepin the table top clean and rust free?

  • Yup. Check out my bandsaw setup/tuneup video that I just recently uploaded. I go over the system I use in that video.

  • auto wax.

  • thanks for the helpfull tips on how to tune a table saw. awesome lookin powermatic table saw u have there. im curious as to know how u got the cast iron table top to look really glossy. i have a ridgid cast iron table saw model ts3660 and i would like to have my cast iron table top look really glossy like your table top. your table top looks like a really cleaned shiny glass and thats the look im goin for.

  • Thanks man! Believe it or not, most Powermatic saws are just made like that. All I have to do is maintain it. Trying to get the average cast iron table top to look like that would take a lot of time and effort I think.

  • This a great help Thank You

  • Great video to bring your woodworking hobby to the next level. I've been woodworking for a long time but, would like to move to the next level. I've never looked into tuning up my tools and should have. This is a great way to do it without spending a lot of money of gadgets and still making accurate cuts on your tablesaw. Thanks and keep the videos coming.

  • Good follow-up to your part 1 Table Saw Setup/Tuneup! You got me inspired to use these techniques on my saw.

Loading...
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more