1. Clean the throttle plate and intake manifold with Cleens u get it at ur GM dealer. 2. Get ur IAC, MAP and TPS checked make sure there in there operating ranges.
3. See if ur intake is cracked and listen for vacuum leaks.
I have a 2002 sc2 and mine does the same thing, my cars automatic and when I turn it on and let it sit for a while at 950 rpm than shoot up to 2500 and stay there and if I put it in drive during this my car reaches 20 mph without me touching anything
my 93 saturn wont start inles i use starting fluid and it only idels with my foot on the gas i changed the idle sensor and the idel position sensor still wont idle do you have an idea?
EGR valve cleaning or a new engine coolant temp sensor maybe. After that pull the PCM-B fuse out for 30 seconds or so, or disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for 30 seconds. Might also check for a leak around the intake manifold by spraying around the manifold with some carb cleaner while at idle.
EGR valve cleaning or a new engine coolant temp sensor maybe. After that pull the PCM-B fuse out for 30 seconds or so, or disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for 30 seconds.
Jus for reference, the line going to the coolant "expansion" tank is a coolant return line. Coolant runs through the intake manifold after the heater core and keeps the manifold/tb warm so it don't build up condensation inside and so it don't freeze over inside during colder temps season
I had the same problem on a 97 SC2 with the twin Overhead cam motor... I replaced the Idle air control valve and it is fixed! Runs ALOT better, smoother, etc...
My 99 SL2 automatic has done the same thing for almost 200,000 miles. I guess Ive just been used to it all this time. In fact, the performance hasnt degraded at all over the life of this car as far as I can tell. Its a great car that still begs to run flat-out (117mph) daily!
If the TPS % doesn't drop back to 0 (on analyzer), this will hold your idle high. Computer thinks that throttle is still open, and adjusts timing accordingly. I replaced my TPS after I couldn't get it to work right anymore, and now the idle drops back to 950-1000 every time I disengage the clutch.
On a side note, gas hit a peak of $4/gallon when Bush was president.
My 1998 SL (SOHC) is doing the same thing. Last year I replaced the six-year-old battery and it was fixed. I guess it wasn't really the battery replacement that fixed it, but the act of disconnecting power. Last night I disconnected the battery for a few hours and this morning it's all good. I think I will install a battery disconnect switch.
This has to be a computer issue. Nothing else can go bad when rolling and get better when stopped.
Most modern cars with manual transmissions will hold the idle a bit higher when coasting and shifting gears. My 99 SL2 holds it at about 1200 to 1500 when warm, and about 2000 when cold. Check your temperature gauge.
If it doesn't get past the 1/4 mark, then your thermostat is bad. Unfortunately Saturn made a thermostat with a rubber edge on the little door that opens and closes, and this goes bad, preventing the thermostat from closing fully. With this problem the engine won't reach operating temperature, which is about 1/16'' past the 1/4 temp mark. If the needle only gets to the 1/4 mark, your standing idle will be above 900, and coast will be at 2000. Standing idle should be 900 or 850.
I went through lots of idle problems and fixes over the last 2 years on my 2001 SC2, including the EGR, IACV, TPS, ECTS, TB buildup... so I was very frustrated when last week I started having this exact idle problem.
Long story short I almost bought a 2nd IACV when I found this vid and zxcv43210727's reply. Disconnected the battery for 3 minutes and runs great now! Thanks! And thanks Dave for keeping the vid up for so long!
ps: The solution makes me think this might be a computer problem.
I have the same problem with my 1995 saturn sl2 automatic it does that itll go up to 2500 rpm when i start it then bout 1 min later it comes back down to 1k
I had a similar problem with my 98 SL1. At one point, the idle wouldn't go under 2000 RPM even when it was out of gear and stopped. I finally turned it off and re-started and it was fine after that. It's done this twice.
dave..obama wont take it any higher than it had been all thru 06 and 08. gas was 4.75 in my area for regular..dont even mention the northern or west states. I suppose, u do quite alot of panicky behavior since u predicted this a few months into his POTUS. GAS CYCLES High thru the ages. remember the 70's???
Ha ha ha! I am dealing with an idle problem as well. Thank for the vid. Mine works nicely & then every so often, idles weak & stalls (drops below 1000rpm). Too bad there isn't a screw-adjustment on the cable to raise the idle like normal cars & motorcycles.
He is right, it is your EGR valve. Mine did the same thing. Disconnecting your batter just resets the system. It will work fine for some time, but don't be suprised if it starts it again eventually.
Dude It's the EGR valve. I had to keep cleaning mine too, but once I put a NEW one on. That problem went away, and it hasn't been back in 3 years now. I know they cost alot, but I'm telling you. It's EGR valve.
So far zxcv43210727 (above) wins the prize. This spring I disconnected the battery over night and it just runs great, an here it is almost june and still running great.
Now the next problem, My son just graduated high school. I haven't even seen my saturn is 2 weeks. I am still driving the truck.
I suppose when he gets a card I'll get mine back. Hopefully before Obama takes the gas to $6.00/ gallon.
Jmarvi66 already said it, but....It's definitely your ECTS or plug for your ECTS. Saturn's have an update kit for the engine coolant temp. sensor. (ECTS). The previous ones were some plastic junk and broke. New ones are brass. I had the same problem with mine and fixed it with the engine coolant temp sensor (because mine needed to be updated). The side of the sensor that goes into the block actually shattered.....and still the engine ran well at times and crappy at others.
DUDE!!!! no way. i had the same problem with my '96 SC1. Heres what i did, i unplugged the throttle position sensor. the only thing with that is you got to keep your foot on the gas for a few seconds when ya start it. It was wasting so much gas that i couldnt take it. But its all good now man. The thing runs like a champ.
ok, i know this sounds weird but i had the sam problem with my cavalier and i disconnected the battery overnight, and i made it go away. it happens like once every 6 months, i just disconnect it and its good as new. its worth a shot
I have a 1996 saturn sc2. Its an automatic. I had the same problem. replaced the temperature sensor. mine purrs like a kitten now. the parts only 10 bucks at autozone and its so easy to change. basically like removing a bolt and putting it back in.
I have the exact same problem on a 2000 SL sohc, manual trans. I have replaced everything you have replaced with no luck. I have the ELM computer link and there are no codes. Please let me know if you ever find the problem. I will do the same.
My humorous response is that I solved the problem by the car running out of inspection, so it is sitting under some snow while I drive the truck. First thaw and I'll get back at it.
I'll keep you informed. I still need to look for the "vent valve" mentioned above
Good solution. lol. Just an fyi - I changed the thermostat yesterday because the car wasn't heating up - less than 1/4 - and the problem seems to be gone. I'll let you know if it stays gone. I can't see your temp gauge in the video, but it looks like you might have the same problem. Worth a try, and cheap.
i would say that an Egr problem exsists with sticky carbonized pintle valves. val guides and seals are usually the culprit and help with the burning of the oil ergo Carbon. check the vent valve on your valve cover and boom. neet
Thanks all for the input. I have replaced the EGR vlv, it was crappy, That helped for a bit. Now with winter here it is idling high again and isn't fixing itself.
I'd like to know more about the vent valve thing. Where is that?
If I was over pressurizing the valve cover in some way that may be a problem
the high rpm when you drive until you come to a stop might be the crank ventilation leaking into the valve train from the crank case. start the car with the pcv valve connected. take off the the oil cap and feel for ANY pressure at all coming out of the oil fill cap. if there is... then there is a more serious mechanical malfunction like, head gasket, valve guides or valve seals. my SC1 saturn had almost the same problem.
Ever get this figured out? I have the same problem with a 2002 automatic. It is a slight nuisance but even worse when you're breaking and downshifting causes it to idle 3K and the next thing you know your ABS is firing off. Ugh..no leaks for me, I think I'm going to try the idle air
dave similar issue with my 02 SL SOHC. I spoke to my mechanic about it and he says replace the IAC valve located in the throttlebody. replaced with aftermarket /cleaned TB. during the adjustment stage it learns correct low idle position but as i get moving into first then hit clutch it revs up to 1500 and holds there untill i hit a complete stop. it is intermittent and does fix itself from time to time. i want to get the saturn iac but it is $200. you seem to have same problem after as well.
Ignition Module is on the transmission, the heat from the engine gets transfered to the transmission case and it burns it. Replace and "RELOCATE IT". RPM signal comes from the ignition module. A burnt ignition module will cause transmission problems in both manual and automatics because the timing is off. Knock retard being off. My automatic was hard shifting, no rpm needle, changed the ignition module, all problems solved.
A few days later it started doing it again. so... I did some testing on the fat vacuum lint from the manifold to the PCV valve and who would have thunk it, the rubber elbows were dry rotted and porous. Wouldn't hold a vacuum at all.
What's up man, you seem to be the victim of the saturn idle. The most annoying thing~! Mine is doing something similar but not quite. Anyways I think your problem is eazier to handle. I believe its your idle control air valve that is attatched to your throttle body. It's like 40 bucks at a local shop and you can change it yourself. It didnt work for me but like I said I have a different problem. Let me know if you need more direction, I'll help if I can.
Check ur PVC valve for leeks mine did that and there was a crack leaking air in the hose.
mnkstr 1 month ago
Try fuses or sensors it doesnt seem like a big problem
toiletpaperninja209 1 month ago
1. Clean the throttle plate and intake manifold with Cleens u get it at ur GM dealer. 2. Get ur IAC, MAP and TPS checked make sure there in there operating ranges.
3. See if ur intake is cracked and listen for vacuum leaks.
osvst 3 months ago
I have a 2002 sc2 and mine does the same thing, my cars automatic and when I turn it on and let it sit for a while at 950 rpm than shoot up to 2500 and stay there and if I put it in drive during this my car reaches 20 mph without me touching anything
xOConnorGkx 3 months ago
is it the idle control valve ??
mitsubishi433 3 months ago
my 93 saturn wont start inles i use starting fluid and it only idels with my foot on the gas i changed the idle sensor and the idel position sensor still wont idle do you have an idea?
lilbiGpena 4 months ago
EGR valve cleaning or a new engine coolant temp sensor maybe. After that pull the PCM-B fuse out for 30 seconds or so, or disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for 30 seconds. Might also check for a leak around the intake manifold by spraying around the manifold with some carb cleaner while at idle.
eclipser2004 4 months ago
EGR valve cleaning or a new engine coolant temp sensor maybe. After that pull the PCM-B fuse out for 30 seconds or so, or disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for 30 seconds.
eclipser2004 4 months ago
Jus for reference, the line going to the coolant "expansion" tank is a coolant return line. Coolant runs through the intake manifold after the heater core and keeps the manifold/tb warm so it don't build up condensation inside and so it don't freeze over inside during colder temps season
dbrinkley5 4 months ago
I had the same problem on a 97 SC2 with the twin Overhead cam motor... I replaced the Idle air control valve and it is fixed! Runs ALOT better, smoother, etc...
sossoundandlighting 9 months ago
My 99 SL2 automatic has done the same thing for almost 200,000 miles. I guess Ive just been used to it all this time. In fact, the performance hasnt degraded at all over the life of this car as far as I can tell. Its a great car that still begs to run flat-out (117mph) daily!
TTTTTTTTztttttttt 9 months ago
If the TPS % doesn't drop back to 0 (on analyzer), this will hold your idle high. Computer thinks that throttle is still open, and adjusts timing accordingly. I replaced my TPS after I couldn't get it to work right anymore, and now the idle drops back to 950-1000 every time I disengage the clutch.
On a side note, gas hit a peak of $4/gallon when Bush was president.
td1238 10 months ago
My 1998 SL (SOHC) is doing the same thing. Last year I replaced the six-year-old battery and it was fixed. I guess it wasn't really the battery replacement that fixed it, but the act of disconnecting power. Last night I disconnected the battery for a few hours and this morning it's all good. I think I will install a battery disconnect switch.
This has to be a computer issue. Nothing else can go bad when rolling and get better when stopped.
DavidBunin1 1 year ago
beat that shit with a hammer.
RF15T1 1 year ago
Most modern cars with manual transmissions will hold the idle a bit higher when coasting and shifting gears. My 99 SL2 holds it at about 1200 to 1500 when warm, and about 2000 when cold. Check your temperature gauge.
td1238 1 year ago
If it doesn't get past the 1/4 mark, then your thermostat is bad. Unfortunately Saturn made a thermostat with a rubber edge on the little door that opens and closes, and this goes bad, preventing the thermostat from closing fully. With this problem the engine won't reach operating temperature, which is about 1/16'' past the 1/4 temp mark. If the needle only gets to the 1/4 mark, your standing idle will be above 900, and coast will be at 2000. Standing idle should be 900 or 850.
td1238 1 year ago
the iac vale port needs to be cleaned with throttle body cleaner not carb cleaner.that should solve the problem.very simple job
pcoop69 1 year ago
I went through lots of idle problems and fixes over the last 2 years on my 2001 SC2, including the EGR, IACV, TPS, ECTS, TB buildup... so I was very frustrated when last week I started having this exact idle problem.
Long story short I almost bought a 2nd IACV when I found this vid and zxcv43210727's reply. Disconnected the battery for 3 minutes and runs great now! Thanks! And thanks Dave for keeping the vid up for so long!
ps: The solution makes me think this might be a computer problem.
josephmbasile 1 year ago
I have the same problem with my 1995 saturn sl2 automatic it does that itll go up to 2500 rpm when i start it then bout 1 min later it comes back down to 1k
TNJfarm 1 year ago
I had a similar problem with my 98 SL1. At one point, the idle wouldn't go under 2000 RPM even when it was out of gear and stopped. I finally turned it off and re-started and it was fine after that. It's done this twice.
Rushfan32935 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
How'd that 'Obama takes the gas to $6.00 a gallon' work out for you?
CrazyWedz 1 year ago
check your fuel pump, or fuel filter.
ajkaberwal1 1 year ago
Comment removed
CrazyWedz 1 year ago
Yo man i changed the EGR AND pcv the problem is the TPS its about 33 at autozone
nukem001 1 year ago
dave..obama wont take it any higher than it had been all thru 06 and 08. gas was 4.75 in my area for regular..dont even mention the northern or west states. I suppose, u do quite alot of panicky behavior since u predicted this a few months into his POTUS. GAS CYCLES High thru the ages. remember the 70's???
ballershanelle 2 years ago
Ha ha ha! I am dealing with an idle problem as well. Thank for the vid. Mine works nicely & then every so often, idles weak & stalls (drops below 1000rpm). Too bad there isn't a screw-adjustment on the cable to raise the idle like normal cars & motorcycles.
GOTTshua 2 years ago
dirty throttle body. it might be sticking open. either that or a iac valve
munoz4415 2 years ago
He is right, it is your EGR valve. Mine did the same thing. Disconnecting your batter just resets the system. It will work fine for some time, but don't be suprised if it starts it again eventually.
JK11451 2 years ago
Dude It's the EGR valve. I had to keep cleaning mine too, but once I put a NEW one on. That problem went away, and it hasn't been back in 3 years now. I know they cost alot, but I'm telling you. It's EGR valve.
timtong3 2 years ago
So far zxcv43210727 (above) wins the prize. This spring I disconnected the battery over night and it just runs great, an here it is almost june and still running great.
Now the next problem, My son just graduated high school. I haven't even seen my saturn is 2 weeks. I am still driving the truck.
I suppose when he gets a card I'll get mine back. Hopefully before Obama takes the gas to $6.00/ gallon.
Thanks everybody, I'll be around.
David
daveshvideo 2 years ago
Jmarvi66 already said it, but....It's definitely your ECTS or plug for your ECTS. Saturn's have an update kit for the engine coolant temp. sensor. (ECTS). The previous ones were some plastic junk and broke. New ones are brass. I had the same problem with mine and fixed it with the engine coolant temp sensor (because mine needed to be updated). The side of the sensor that goes into the block actually shattered.....and still the engine ran well at times and crappy at others.
Trayratjr 2 years ago
@daveshvideo after you disconnected the battery it worked fine???
highlifein909 2 months ago
DUDE!!!! no way. i had the same problem with my '96 SC1. Heres what i did, i unplugged the throttle position sensor. the only thing with that is you got to keep your foot on the gas for a few seconds when ya start it. It was wasting so much gas that i couldnt take it. But its all good now man. The thing runs like a champ.
FenderBender454 2 years ago
lots of saturns have this typical problem my saturn even had this problem at once and a bracket or clamp was loose
walkingfreak 2 years ago
check the iac valve idle air control valve or a vac leak on the throttle body
chaosmike3011 3 years ago
ok, i know this sounds weird but i had the sam problem with my cavalier and i disconnected the battery overnight, and i made it go away. it happens like once every 6 months, i just disconnect it and its good as new. its worth a shot
zxcv43210727 3 years ago
check the idle air control maybe?
BHARMS2 3 years ago
I have a 1996 saturn sc2. Its an automatic. I had the same problem. replaced the temperature sensor. mine purrs like a kitten now. the parts only 10 bucks at autozone and its so easy to change. basically like removing a bolt and putting it back in.
jmarvi66 3 years ago
I have the exact same problem on a 2000 SL sohc, manual trans. I have replaced everything you have replaced with no luck. I have the ELM computer link and there are no codes. Please let me know if you ever find the problem. I will do the same.
youdhp 3 years ago
My humorous response is that I solved the problem by the car running out of inspection, so it is sitting under some snow while I drive the truck. First thaw and I'll get back at it.
I'll keep you informed. I still need to look for the "vent valve" mentioned above
Thanks
daveshvideo 3 years ago
Good solution. lol. Just an fyi - I changed the thermostat yesterday because the car wasn't heating up - less than 1/4 - and the problem seems to be gone. I'll let you know if it stays gone. I can't see your temp gauge in the video, but it looks like you might have the same problem. Worth a try, and cheap.
youdhp 3 years ago
i would say that an Egr problem exsists with sticky carbonized pintle valves. val guides and seals are usually the culprit and help with the burning of the oil ergo Carbon. check the vent valve on your valve cover and boom. neet
gageoninja 3 years ago
Thanks all for the input. I have replaced the EGR vlv, it was crappy, That helped for a bit. Now with winter here it is idling high again and isn't fixing itself.
I'd like to know more about the vent valve thing. Where is that?
If I was over pressurizing the valve cover in some way that may be a problem
David
daveshvideo 3 years ago
the high rpm when you drive until you come to a stop might be the crank ventilation leaking into the valve train from the crank case. start the car with the pcv valve connected. take off the the oil cap and feel for ANY pressure at all coming out of the oil fill cap. if there is... then there is a more serious mechanical malfunction like, head gasket, valve guides or valve seals. my SC1 saturn had almost the same problem.
gageoninja 3 years ago
Ever get this figured out? I have the same problem with a 2002 automatic. It is a slight nuisance but even worse when you're breaking and downshifting causes it to idle 3K and the next thing you know your ABS is firing off. Ugh..no leaks for me, I think I'm going to try the idle air
metsu962 3 years ago
dave similar issue with my 02 SL SOHC. I spoke to my mechanic about it and he says replace the IAC valve located in the throttlebody. replaced with aftermarket /cleaned TB. during the adjustment stage it learns correct low idle position but as i get moving into first then hit clutch it revs up to 1500 and holds there untill i hit a complete stop. it is intermittent and does fix itself from time to time. i want to get the saturn iac but it is $200. you seem to have same problem after as well.
Jim02satsl 3 years ago
Ignition Module is on the transmission, the heat from the engine gets transfered to the transmission case and it burns it. Replace and "RELOCATE IT". RPM signal comes from the ignition module. A burnt ignition module will cause transmission problems in both manual and automatics because the timing is off. Knock retard being off. My automatic was hard shifting, no rpm needle, changed the ignition module, all problems solved.
lifereversal 3 years ago
More...
Eureka! Replaced that and it was fine........For a few days then back at it again.. WTF.
I figured, well, it might be the EGR valve not closing all the way...Replaced that, no change.
Today it was being bad, actually idled at 3K (even when stopped!) for about a minute.
Then.....Shazaamm it runs perfect.
Left to change? MAP and O2.
Or I might turn it into a little black Honda or something.
Thanks
daveshvideo 3 years ago
Thanks toyandfrank.
I did replace that. Here is a quick list:
Coolant Temp thermistor
IAS
Throttle Position Sensor
PCV Valve
Tubing connected to the Evap Purge Valve
Cleaned throttle body
As you saw, it fixed itself but...
A few days later it started doing it again. so... I did some testing on the fat vacuum lint from the manifold to the PCV valve and who would have thunk it, the rubber elbows were dry rotted and porous. Wouldn't hold a vacuum at all.
daveshvideo 3 years ago
What's up man, you seem to be the victim of the saturn idle. The most annoying thing~! Mine is doing something similar but not quite. Anyways I think your problem is eazier to handle. I believe its your idle control air valve that is attatched to your throttle body. It's like 40 bucks at a local shop and you can change it yourself. It didnt work for me but like I said I have a different problem. Let me know if you need more direction, I'll help if I can.
toyandfrank 3 years ago