Great video there. It refreshes some old memories. Now I have several English bikes I want to clean and lube. My question is on lube types. Inside the hub---3-inone--Slick 50 spray lube--or home sewing machine oil---is one of these best or do you have a better suggestion. On the wheel bearings I normally use a clear synthetic grease on my other bikes. Is this good, or do we count on the light oil from the inner gears to lube the bearings too?
Hi - thanks for this, it's very clear and reassuring.
I have an S5C that won't stay in first gear and am thinking of taking it apart for a poke around. How does the coaster brake affect what you're showing here?
Thank you very much for this video. Some questions: You don't have the spokes or anything, Sheldon Brown says to leave the wheel attached, is that correct? I have a AG dynohub & can't seem to get a middle gear so am thinking of rebuilding the hub. Am not using the dyno hub to generate electricity & don't know anything about this aspect. Do you know if I can leave the wheel on the AG while I work on it? What diff. are there between working on the AG & what you show in this video? Thx!
@paleodictyoptera Yes, leave the hub in the wheel. It has a similar left cone, which once removed will enable you to unscrew the internal (I'm going by memory - it's thirty years since I played with the AG). You'll notice that the gear internal is a little more compact than the AW, but other than that, procedures are the same. Have fun.
In addition to this, it is really difficult to freewheel the bike, I can make the rear wheel m,ove by pedaling backwards!!! it is very stiff. I have connected up the gears but none of them work, not first, second nor third. Im stuck in one gear and it feels as if it is first gear (Instead of third gear when gears are not connected) I really dont know what to do and ive never come across a problem like this before. Ive oiled it, so much so it is basicly flooded. What should i do?
Graham, its me again! :L Just my luck eh? I brought a 1972 Raleigh Chopper, with a 1977 Rear wheel hub (All 1977 hubs ive had have been dodgy can i say :L probably too much dancing in the SA Factory!) Anyway the problem is, that it is difficult to screw on the toggle chain, it takes quite a few times to do so, and also it is really stiff when screwing in. Secondly the toggle chain doesnt come out much, only by a few millimeters when pulled.
@GrahamNR17 its okay thanks. so i repared the hub and it works better thant the first time i tried the bicycle ! but the ' driver ' as you said, it is used by spot !! and i don't have the new piece but it runs ! :)
@UKEdenis Because it's just a demonstration on stripping and rebuilding. I was planning to do two further vids on re-lubing a 'greaser' but haven't got round to it yes :-(
Great video and very handy for someone new like me to SA hubs. I have been having problems with my gears not staying in 1st and 2nd by ending up in 3rd. I'm not sure wether it is loose inside. It's a newish clean example.
I checked out the handy Toggle Chain Tour and then Chuck Gilder's Bicycle workshop in how to adjust the gears. I haven't done the job of keeping the uniform rod level with the hub axle tube. Going to do it now. Hopefully the gears will stay in gear now?
Best to advise removing the ball ring before cutting spokes to remove the hub from a wheel -- it may not be possible -- or damage to the flanges may result. Also, the right and left bearing cones of the AW are the same.
Best advise people to loosen the ball ring before cutting spokes. It may not be possible if the hub is not in a wheel, or damage to the hub flages may result, expecially with an aluminum alloy shell. Also the right and left bearing cones of the AW are the same.
Inside the hub, there is a ratchet ring which looks like it has been pressed into place. It has serrations to hold it inside the hub. The pawls are slipping because the ratchet ring has worn almost smooth...Is it possible to remove this from inside the hub and replace it ? how can I remedy this ? Thanks.
I took one of these apart about 4 years ago down to each little piece, took me a good 2 hours and I certainly wasn't as orderly as this video. I soaked each little piece in chemical degreaser and brushed the whole thing with Park Tool Polylube and put it back together, works like a charm to this day, but it's hard to hurt these things, the one I did sat in a junkyard for years before I found it.
Glad to see there's a video out there that illustrates the process succinctly.
I took one of these apart about 4 years ago down to each little piece, took me a good 2 hours and I certainly wasn't as orderly as this video. I soaked each little piece in chemical degreaser and brushed the whole thing with Park Tool Polylube and put it back together, works like a charm to this day, but it's hard to hurt these things, the one I did sat in a junkyard for years before I found it.
Glad to see there's a video out there that illustrates the process succinctly.
Hi Just brought myself a Raleigh Grifter hub date 9/1982. I began fixing up the bike earlier however i found that the toggle chain that goes into the hub was broken inside. I opened up the hub and removed the toggle chain only to find that the axle key was broken. I do have a spare SA hub to which i could use to dismantle and use the key. How would I do this?
Awesome. With this video and a slideshow from Bicycle Hub I managed to strip and rebuild a 78/7 AW this afternoon. It took ages because I degreased and scrubbed every external part, and ensured every single internal part was properly oiled before putting it back together again. Works like a charm now. Thanks!
This is very helpful, I have bicycles running the K hub (1920's - 1930's) as opposed to AW, but I have documents detailing them, so I can easily figure it out where things are a little different.
I ended up taking everything apart which probably wasn't necessary and thoroughly cleaned everything inside. Now I'm stumped as to which way the pawls go back in because I failed to make detailed enough notes of their position.
I asked some folks at bikeforums and haven't got a clear picture yet. I keep hearing "flat side out" but that doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I'm going to pull apart another hub just to look at how they are positioned. There are no clear pictures of this.
@GrahamNR17 I ended up taking apart the other AW hub I had just to double-check the positions of the pawls. I'm glad I did it because even though the hub seemed to be in really good shape and purred like a kitten without so much as a clunk or slip and shifted smoothly I was aghast at just how full of grit it was inside. I spent a few hours taking it apart and cleaning it. Both hubs are back together and both bikes are whole again.
Your videos were very helpful. Thanks for making them.
I've always been a bit afraid of taking one of these apart. I imagine that an old one that has never been serviced would be filthy and disgusting inside with the oil blackened by microscopic metal bits that have slowly ground off the parts and polluting the oil inside.
Could the entire inside be soaked or cleaned in a sonic cleaner after it is removed from the shell and before disassembly, and only after that be fully taken apart to wipe off and dry? - or is this unnecessary?
@SerenityValleyVFR I can't see any reason why not, provided you do strip it down afterwards to get the cleaning solvent out of the moving parts. Let me know how you get on!
SA sprockets are held on with a circlip which sits in a groove on the driver. You can take them off with a screwdriver but external circlip pliers might make it more pleasant.
Watch it doesn't skite and hit you the eye. Some people put a cloth over them to stop this.
SA sprockets are held on with a circlip which sits in a groove on the driver. You can take them off with a screwdriver but external circlip pliers might make it more pleasant.
Watch it doesn't skite and hit you the eye. Some people put a cloth over them to stop this.
i ran out of characters... but basically the little stick on the tiny chain that goes into the hub has come out and i cant figure out how to put it in. It seems like it wont reach. On a side note will i have to remove all the spokes and stuff to take the hub out and have a look in (i'd like to do what this video is about just to learn from it and check on the ware) Thank you.
I'm brand new to vintage bike restoration, I plan to restore a womens Hercules commuter bike, i'm quikly becoming adicted. At this point i'm just wire brushing rust off and trying to put the brakes in a decent position, but when i took off the back wheel i really did just rush in and i think i've ruined the gear hub. I feel terrible and cant find a decent video for the problem i have and dont know the terminology to explian it. If anyone on here could help? Email: Welsh_Wizard6667@hotmail.com
excellent video, say if you're a student and you got a 3 speed given or through a re-cycle scheme like Bike Rescue in York, England (i do hub rebuilds for them in my spare time) and the hub packs up leaving you with no transport don't throw it away, borrow some tools and tackle it. get hold of a donor hub to replace any broken parts. broken parts are rare but what usually happens is pawl springs rust away if water has got in and toggles break when they get bashed. there are 3 toggle sizes. easy
Hi Yep, it was loose, the drive side bearing cone needed tightening. Many thanks for your help. Another question though, i have a July 1990 AW hub and it doesnt seem to have an oil cap on it at all. where would i have to oil it, and how often should i oil it?
@GrahamNR17 Hi, oh right, well the thing is the rear wheel didnt seem to spin smoothly, the brakes wernt touching so i figured it would need a lubricating, so i took off the toggle gear chain and i put in a few drops of oil in. The only thing is, the rear hub doesnt make the clicking sound anymore!!! have i broken it!?
@andrewz105 I doubt you've broken it. Probably just made the grease a bit more mobile. The clicking will be duller when it's nicely lubed. It may be there wasn't enough grease in it, or it needed re-greasing. When it gets noisy again, do the same trick with the oil until you reach the stage you think it's worth stripping and re-greasing ;-)
@jchampaign1 probably not a problem with the hub. The gear adjustment is to do with the cable that goes into the hub, if second slips into third thaen it's too loose so you'll need to tighten the cable going into the hub and if it slips into first you'll need to loosen it. hope this helps :P
@MrMusicman40 If I ever track down a TCW, I'll certainly do a video. But they were notoriously poorly designed and unreliable, so getting a good one, and more importantly, spare parts, is a problem. Watch this space :-)
How much stress can one of these handle? Like if I spun it at say 3000 RPM, on a shaft that had 60 foot-pounds of torque, how long do you think it'd last?
Assuming, in the first place, that it would blow to bits. Nah I don't own one of these, I'm just asking because since they have to take relatively high torque when operating (you know, they're in the center of a relatively low spinning, and very large radius wheel, the torque must be brutal. And now take into account that people will pedal really hard when they try to take off fast in a wheelie, and these are fitted into MTB's), so I'm just curious to know if I can use it.
@corotor12345 It's an interesting subject, but way beyond my understanding of human physiology and what Sturmey's design spec was. My guess is the torgue might be ok, but 3000 rpm would probably be too much for the flimsy axle bearings and plain bearing surfaces of the pinions etc. I'm guessing heat dissipation would be a huge issue too.
Nah, it's actually the other way around. In high angular speed cases, heat dissipation, mechanical wear and resonance are far more important that fatigue and stress. You're right about the heat, but I wouldn't fit this into a wheel, and I would replace the hub with a liquid cooled sleeve with a gear over to one side. I'd also make it oil tight and fill it up, and probably rebuild it constantly. I care more about weight than maintenance, so I'd be willing to swap it often.
Great Video. Thank you very much....Got some oil and grease as per you other video and stripped and lubed. I put grease in the rings around each cone but found oil leaking out between driver and ball ring. How do I seal these parts properly to stop oil leaks and how much oil should i put in ? Thanks mate.
@proflondonuk You won't stop leakage between the driver and ball ring, I'm afraid. Leakage there just indicates you have too much oil in it. I tend to fil until it starts to come out of there, then let sit a while with kitchen paper stuffed between the sprocket and hub to soak it up. From there, 5ml a month on a regularly used bike ;-)
Wow. I've heard many times that if you ever opened a Sturmey Archer hub it would explode in your face and you'd never get it back together. You make it look easy. Having said that, I'm sure I'd cock it up.
I watched your video the whole time I took mine apart today. The key part in mine was broken and I made a new one for it out of a sheave pin. Took the bike for a ride and it seems to be shifty very well :) thanks for the walk through!
great video, this may be very useful to me, i wanted to ask you though, my chopper rear wheel has been rechromed and rebuilt with new spokes but the sturmey archer hub doesnt click and there is lots of play, we fitted new bearings and tightened up the wheel but after pressure being put on it , it gets loose again.
@andrewz105 Hi Andrew, start off by ensuring the driver is sitting down and locating correctly in the clutch, then double-check the drive-side bearing cone is screwed all the way down before backing-off to maximum half turn (until the tabbed cone washer locates over the cone 'flats'. Also ensure the bearings are in the correct sized clip, they are slightly larger diameter than 'standard' rear wheel clipped bearings. Come back to me once you've double-checked those things.
Just what I was looking for! Thanks Graham for demystifying the SA hub,excellent videos do keep 'em coming. Now just how dirty would a 70yr old AW be inside and where/what to lube when re-assembling please?
Thankyou for your kind comment, I am very pleased the video proved useful! A lubrication video is in the 'editing suite' as we speak, and should be released by the weekend ;-) I just need to edit-out the bad language when I dropped a vital part!
Thanks for this. Well done. Only add on I might suggest is getting the gear off the back. Overall well done and thanks.
WrEclaimbicycles 6 days ago
Hello,
I bought an old (1986) Gazelle with SA AB rear hub a few days ago.
The hub slips on low and medium gear, so according to what I have found, the pawls are worn and needs to be replaced.
But I can't find what do I need to replace - planet cage pawls or gear ring pawls? Both?
wrongwayLV 1 week ago
Job Done is the only part I get. Great video.
totalfloat 2 weeks ago
Great video there. It refreshes some old memories. Now I have several English bikes I want to clean and lube. My question is on lube types. Inside the hub---3-inone--Slick 50 spray lube--or home sewing machine oil---is one of these best or do you have a better suggestion. On the wheel bearings I normally use a clear synthetic grease on my other bikes. Is this good, or do we count on the light oil from the inner gears to lube the bearings too?
Thanks, Turbo Bob.
TurboBobsBicycleBlog 1 month ago
Hi - thanks for this, it's very clear and reassuring.
I have an S5C that won't stay in first gear and am thinking of taking it apart for a poke around. How does the coaster brake affect what you're showing here?
EdinburghFixed 1 month ago
Can you tell me what tools you used? Thx
paleodictyoptera 1 month ago
Thank you very much for this video. Some questions: You don't have the spokes or anything, Sheldon Brown says to leave the wheel attached, is that correct? I have a AG dynohub & can't seem to get a middle gear so am thinking of rebuilding the hub. Am not using the dyno hub to generate electricity & don't know anything about this aspect. Do you know if I can leave the wheel on the AG while I work on it? What diff. are there between working on the AG & what you show in this video? Thx!
paleodictyoptera 1 month ago
@paleodictyoptera Yes, leave the hub in the wheel. It has a similar left cone, which once removed will enable you to unscrew the internal (I'm going by memory - it's thirty years since I played with the AG). You'll notice that the gear internal is a little more compact than the AW, but other than that, procedures are the same. Have fun.
GrahamNR17 1 month ago
those things lasted 30 years, nothing today last that long
but the downside was 1st and second gear too short 3rd gear was too long
If it had at least 4 gears it would be perfect
2nd downside : a real nutbreacker if the gear didn't go in well dangerous!
the other downside was it's weight, but that one was forgivable seen the quality
215alessio 2 months ago
Can any one tell me what oil is recommended for this types of hubs thanks.
caluarias 2 months ago
@caluarias Take a look at the "Chat About Lubricants" video ;-)
GrahamNR17 2 months ago
@caluarias gear box oil. But just a lil bit because it drips out
anyway I don't know what oil or grease is the best one
215alessio 2 months ago
I always new these SA hubs were complicated but Damn!
totalfloat 2 months ago
Il y a toujours un certain vide lorsque l'on cesse de pédaler et à la reprise du pédalage. meme si le moyeu est bien ajusté !.
Jimreeves20 4 months ago
You make it look so easy. Excellent video.
blackhawknj 4 months ago
Informative and well edited! Keep it up!
alexdanderroquemore 5 months ago
Good vid but would have been to good show which parts to grease and quantity of oil to add to a dry hub.
mrjoneseastend 6 months ago
In addition to this, it is really difficult to freewheel the bike, I can make the rear wheel m,ove by pedaling backwards!!! it is very stiff. I have connected up the gears but none of them work, not first, second nor third. Im stuck in one gear and it feels as if it is first gear (Instead of third gear when gears are not connected) I really dont know what to do and ive never come across a problem like this before. Ive oiled it, so much so it is basicly flooded. What should i do?
andrewz105 6 months ago
Graham, its me again! :L Just my luck eh? I brought a 1972 Raleigh Chopper, with a 1977 Rear wheel hub (All 1977 hubs ive had have been dodgy can i say :L probably too much dancing in the SA Factory!) Anyway the problem is, that it is difficult to screw on the toggle chain, it takes quite a few times to do so, and also it is really stiff when screwing in. Secondly the toggle chain doesnt come out much, only by a few millimeters when pulled.
andrewz105 6 months ago
Pretty good vid Graham! Not quite as entertaining as the original Sturmey Archer videos now on ebay in dvd format, but still very useful .. .. ;-)
bodyandsoulproject 7 months ago
oups I forgot something ::::: How to remove the chain ???... thanks
UKEdenis 7 months ago
@UKEdenis Just unscrew it. The chain is attached to the indicator rod which has a screw thread at the inner end.
GrahamNR17 7 months ago
@GrahamNR17 its okay thanks. so i repared the hub and it works better thant the first time i tried the bicycle ! but the ' driver ' as you said, it is used by spot !! and i don't have the new piece but it runs ! :)
UKEdenis 7 months ago
Why you don't put some grease at each step when you rebuilt it ?? and I don't see the small chain
UKEdenis 7 months ago
@UKEdenis Because it's just a demonstration on stripping and rebuilding. I was planning to do two further vids on re-lubing a 'greaser' but haven't got round to it yes :-(
GrahamNR17 7 months ago
Great video and very handy for someone new like me to SA hubs. I have been having problems with my gears not staying in 1st and 2nd by ending up in 3rd. I'm not sure wether it is loose inside. It's a newish clean example.
I checked out the handy Toggle Chain Tour and then Chuck Gilder's Bicycle workshop in how to adjust the gears. I haven't done the job of keeping the uniform rod level with the hub axle tube. Going to do it now. Hopefully the gears will stay in gear now?
bondbug73 7 months ago
Best to advise removing the ball ring before cutting spokes to remove the hub from a wheel -- it may not be possible -- or damage to the flanges may result. Also, the right and left bearing cones of the AW are the same.
jsallen1946 8 months ago
Best advise people to loosen the ball ring before cutting spokes. It may not be possible if the hub is not in a wheel, or damage to the hub flages may result, expecially with an aluminum alloy shell. Also the right and left bearing cones of the AW are the same.
jsallen1946 8 months ago
many thanks for your great video and skills. it was a great help.
dogsknobs 11 months ago
Inside the hub, there is a ratchet ring which looks like it has been pressed into place. It has serrations to hold it inside the hub. The pawls are slipping because the ratchet ring has worn almost smooth...Is it possible to remove this from inside the hub and replace it ? how can I remedy this ? Thanks.
proflondonuk 11 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I took one of these apart about 4 years ago down to each little piece, took me a good 2 hours and I certainly wasn't as orderly as this video. I soaked each little piece in chemical degreaser and brushed the whole thing with Park Tool Polylube and put it back together, works like a charm to this day, but it's hard to hurt these things, the one I did sat in a junkyard for years before I found it.
Glad to see there's a video out there that illustrates the process succinctly.
bchroneos 11 months ago
I took one of these apart about 4 years ago down to each little piece, took me a good 2 hours and I certainly wasn't as orderly as this video. I soaked each little piece in chemical degreaser and brushed the whole thing with Park Tool Polylube and put it back together, works like a charm to this day, but it's hard to hurt these things, the one I did sat in a junkyard for years before I found it.
Glad to see there's a video out there that illustrates the process succinctly.
bchroneos 11 months ago
Brilliant video. Nice and succinct. Thanks very much.
SamQuemby 11 months ago
Hi Just brought myself a Raleigh Grifter hub date 9/1982. I began fixing up the bike earlier however i found that the toggle chain that goes into the hub was broken inside. I opened up the hub and removed the toggle chain only to find that the axle key was broken. I do have a spare SA hub to which i could use to dismantle and use the key. How would I do this?
andrewz105 11 months ago
Awesome. With this video and a slideshow from Bicycle Hub I managed to strip and rebuild a 78/7 AW this afternoon. It took ages because I degreased and scrubbed every external part, and ensured every single internal part was properly oiled before putting it back together again. Works like a charm now. Thanks!
lardboy 11 months ago
This is very helpful, I have bicycles running the K hub (1920's - 1930's) as opposed to AW, but I have documents detailing them, so I can easily figure it out where things are a little different.
HighTreason610 11 months ago
I ended up taking everything apart which probably wasn't necessary and thoroughly cleaned everything inside. Now I'm stumped as to which way the pawls go back in because I failed to make detailed enough notes of their position.
I asked some folks at bikeforums and haven't got a clear picture yet. I keep hearing "flat side out" but that doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I'm going to pull apart another hub just to look at how they are positioned. There are no clear pictures of this.
SerenityValleyVFR 11 months ago
@SerenityValleyVFR See the videos on my channel for replacing pawls and pawl springs ;-)
GrahamNR17 11 months ago
@GrahamNR17 I ended up taking apart the other AW hub I had just to double-check the positions of the pawls. I'm glad I did it because even though the hub seemed to be in really good shape and purred like a kitten without so much as a clunk or slip and shifted smoothly I was aghast at just how full of grit it was inside. I spent a few hours taking it apart and cleaning it. Both hubs are back together and both bikes are whole again.
Your videos were very helpful. Thanks for making them.
SerenityValleyVFR 11 months ago
Wonderful!
I've always been a bit afraid of taking one of these apart. I imagine that an old one that has never been serviced would be filthy and disgusting inside with the oil blackened by microscopic metal bits that have slowly ground off the parts and polluting the oil inside.
Could the entire inside be soaked or cleaned in a sonic cleaner after it is removed from the shell and before disassembly, and only after that be fully taken apart to wipe off and dry? - or is this unnecessary?
SerenityValleyVFR 1 year ago
@SerenityValleyVFR I can't see any reason why not, provided you do strip it down afterwards to get the cleaning solvent out of the moving parts. Let me know how you get on!
GrahamNR17 11 months ago
Other youtube posters note:
No loud music.
No fancy camera work.
No rehearsed spontaneity.
No silly jokes.
Just good, honest, informative advice.
Keep up the good work.
roythegrass 1 year ago
@alftupperstwin
SA sprockets are held on with a circlip which sits in a groove on the driver. You can take them off with a screwdriver but external circlip pliers might make it more pleasant.
Watch it doesn't skite and hit you the eye. Some people put a cloth over them to stop this.
aedanmcghie 1 year ago
@alftupperstwin
SA sprockets are held on with a circlip which sits in a groove on the driver. You can take them off with a screwdriver but external circlip pliers might make it more pleasant.
Watch it doesn't skite and hit you the eye. Some people put a cloth over them to stop this.
aedanmcghie 1 year ago
i ran out of characters... but basically the little stick on the tiny chain that goes into the hub has come out and i cant figure out how to put it in. It seems like it wont reach. On a side note will i have to remove all the spokes and stuff to take the hub out and have a look in (i'd like to do what this video is about just to learn from it and check on the ware) Thank you.
Welsh_Wizard6667@hotmail.com
OGKush2010 1 year ago
I'm brand new to vintage bike restoration, I plan to restore a womens Hercules commuter bike, i'm quikly becoming adicted. At this point i'm just wire brushing rust off and trying to put the brakes in a decent position, but when i took off the back wheel i really did just rush in and i think i've ruined the gear hub. I feel terrible and cant find a decent video for the problem i have and dont know the terminology to explian it. If anyone on here could help? Email: Welsh_Wizard6667@hotmail.com
OGKush2010 1 year ago
excellent video, say if you're a student and you got a 3 speed given or through a re-cycle scheme like Bike Rescue in York, England (i do hub rebuilds for them in my spare time) and the hub packs up leaving you with no transport don't throw it away, borrow some tools and tackle it. get hold of a donor hub to replace any broken parts. broken parts are rare but what usually happens is pawl springs rust away if water has got in and toggles break when they get bashed. there are 3 toggle sizes. easy
bassistmatt 1 year ago
awesome videos been doing maine today took a bit but got it right great
TheKonaman66 1 year ago
Hey Graham, just wanted to say what an excellent video. Thanks
daveru5h 1 year ago
Hi Yep, it was loose, the drive side bearing cone needed tightening. Many thanks for your help. Another question though, i have a July 1990 AW hub and it doesnt seem to have an oil cap on it at all. where would i have to oil it, and how often should i oil it?
thanks for your help.
andrewz105 1 year ago
@andrewz105 It will be greased, you won't need to oil it at all.
GrahamNR17 1 year ago
@GrahamNR17 Hi, oh right, well the thing is the rear wheel didnt seem to spin smoothly, the brakes wernt touching so i figured it would need a lubricating, so i took off the toggle gear chain and i put in a few drops of oil in. The only thing is, the rear hub doesnt make the clicking sound anymore!!! have i broken it!?
andrewz105 1 year ago
@andrewz105 I doubt you've broken it. Probably just made the grease a bit more mobile. The clicking will be duller when it's nicely lubed. It may be there wasn't enough grease in it, or it needed re-greasing. When it gets noisy again, do the same trick with the oil until you reach the stage you think it's worth stripping and re-greasing ;-)
GrahamNR17 1 year ago
I shouldnt be doing this oops .
joebstarsurfer 1 year ago
this video actually helped me out with the newer SRF3. it was a little different. actually seems to have less parts..
the 81 S3C i just got though.. a lot more stuff. i didn't try to fiddle with it yet..
saynotohutch 1 year ago
@MrMusicman40
Hi,
my 2nd gear is slipping. Do you know what part I will need to replace to fix thee problem?
jchampaign1 1 year ago
@MrMusicman40 my 2nd gear is slipping. do you know what part I will need to replace to fix thee problem?
jchampaign1 1 year ago
@jchampaign1 probably not a problem with the hub. The gear adjustment is to do with the cable that goes into the hub, if second slips into third thaen it's too loose so you'll need to tighten the cable going into the hub and if it slips into first you'll need to loosen it. hope this helps :P
andrewz105 1 year ago
@MrMusicman40 If I ever track down a TCW, I'll certainly do a video. But they were notoriously poorly designed and unreliable, so getting a good one, and more importantly, spare parts, is a problem. Watch this space :-)
GrahamNR17 1 year ago
How much stress can one of these handle? Like if I spun it at say 3000 RPM, on a shaft that had 60 foot-pounds of torque, how long do you think it'd last?
corotor12345 1 year ago
@corotor12345 No idea, but I look forward to your report on how far the bits flew ;-)
GrahamNR17 1 year ago
@GrahamNR17
Assuming, in the first place, that it would blow to bits. Nah I don't own one of these, I'm just asking because since they have to take relatively high torque when operating (you know, they're in the center of a relatively low spinning, and very large radius wheel, the torque must be brutal. And now take into account that people will pedal really hard when they try to take off fast in a wheelie, and these are fitted into MTB's), so I'm just curious to know if I can use it.
corotor12345 1 year ago
@corotor12345 It's an interesting subject, but way beyond my understanding of human physiology and what Sturmey's design spec was. My guess is the torgue might be ok, but 3000 rpm would probably be too much for the flimsy axle bearings and plain bearing surfaces of the pinions etc. I'm guessing heat dissipation would be a huge issue too.
GrahamNR17 1 year ago
@GrahamNR17
Nah, it's actually the other way around. In high angular speed cases, heat dissipation, mechanical wear and resonance are far more important that fatigue and stress. You're right about the heat, but I wouldn't fit this into a wheel, and I would replace the hub with a liquid cooled sleeve with a gear over to one side. I'd also make it oil tight and fill it up, and probably rebuild it constantly. I care more about weight than maintenance, so I'd be willing to swap it often.
corotor12345 1 year ago
great video!
saynotohutch 1 year ago
Great Video. Thank you very much....Got some oil and grease as per you other video and stripped and lubed. I put grease in the rings around each cone but found oil leaking out between driver and ball ring. How do I seal these parts properly to stop oil leaks and how much oil should i put in ? Thanks mate.
proflondonuk 1 year ago
@proflondonuk You won't stop leakage between the driver and ball ring, I'm afraid. Leakage there just indicates you have too much oil in it. I tend to fil until it starts to come out of there, then let sit a while with kitchen paper stuffed between the sprocket and hub to soak it up. From there, 5ml a month on a regularly used bike ;-)
GrahamNR17 1 year ago
which way round should i fit the clutch. With the recess upwards or down?
zuma1984 1 year ago
@zuma1984 The recess around the hole goes downwards.
GrahamNR17 1 year ago
This is an excellent video. The best demonstration I have seen.
PositiveChristian 1 year ago
Wow. I've heard many times that if you ever opened a Sturmey Archer hub it would explode in your face and you'd never get it back together. You make it look easy. Having said that, I'm sure I'd cock it up.
grundgemonster 1 year ago
@grundgemonster No, you must be confusing it with atom bombs - they can be a little tricky ;-)
GrahamNR17 1 year ago
I watched your video the whole time I took mine apart today. The key part in mine was broken and I made a new one for it out of a sheave pin. Took the bike for a ride and it seems to be shifty very well :) thanks for the walk through!
Pj311foo 1 year ago
Excellent video, removes any fear I had of tearing into one...thanks!
soytnly 1 year ago
Hi
great video, this may be very useful to me, i wanted to ask you though, my chopper rear wheel has been rechromed and rebuilt with new spokes but the sturmey archer hub doesnt click and there is lots of play, we fitted new bearings and tightened up the wheel but after pressure being put on it , it gets loose again.
Any ideas?
andrewz105 1 year ago
@andrewz105 Hi Andrew, start off by ensuring the driver is sitting down and locating correctly in the clutch, then double-check the drive-side bearing cone is screwed all the way down before backing-off to maximum half turn (until the tabbed cone washer locates over the cone 'flats'. Also ensure the bearings are in the correct sized clip, they are slightly larger diameter than 'standard' rear wheel clipped bearings. Come back to me once you've double-checked those things.
GrahamNR17 1 year ago
Excellent insight without me having to ruin mine through curiosity. Thank you!
Corinth6 1 year ago
スターメイアーチャーは、シマノよりも面白いギアで、大好きです。
nekonome1 1 year ago
@nekonome1 I agree with you 仰るとおりです
GrahamNR17 1 year ago
Just what I was looking for! Thanks Graham for demystifying the SA hub,excellent videos do keep 'em coming. Now just how dirty would a 70yr old AW be inside and where/what to lube when re-assembling please?
waverley610 2 years ago
Thankyou for your kind comment, I am very pleased the video proved useful! A lubrication video is in the 'editing suite' as we speak, and should be released by the weekend ;-) I just need to edit-out the bad language when I dropped a vital part!
GrahamNR17 2 years ago
Thank you that was really nice
Grousuba 2 years ago