I would sharpen my blade but its ruined it has a couple of big nicks on it, definitely needs replacing.. Nice trick coating underneath the deck with used motor oil, i should try that.
Besides having an uneven cut i heard if you cut your grass with a dull blade your lawn can catch a disease?
Great video, thanks. Though I had to laugh about "preventing the mower from accidentally starting." You're kidding, right? I have never been able to start a gas mower at all. That's why I own an electric one :)
Wow, sweet! Thanks! I went looing for how to sharpen a blade and learned how to do all the maintenance in about ten minutes. Seeing how easy it is makes me actually want to maintain my mower!
Can you sharpen lawn mower blade with a hand file or is it just easier to go buy a new blade? I do not have any type of electric grinder just hand tools. Thanks
i know a guy who changes oil weekly on his commercial scag . he gets 2x the amount of hours out of the machine in the end . So you can never change the oil too much . Also running 2 cycle in a 4 cycle engine is not a bad thing , it is actually better quality gas
Some very helpful tips, especially sharpening and balancing the blade. A couple things I want to mention. I don't feel its necessary to drain the gas out for this job. Removing the park plug means the engine has no way to ignite the fuel. Of course, if you have a fuel shut-off valve installed you can shut it and be extra safe if you really want and leave gas.
@hanyoukimura The other thing O wanted to mention is that deck sure was filthy. It really should be washed after each mow, this prevents grass buildup and stops rust from ever starting. My deck has a washout port which makes it really easy, but topping the mower and spraying it is also easy. Also, if you want to prevent rust, clean the underside of the deck really good, prep the surface, then spray on truck bed liner. It's extremely tough and will protect the metal.
I love the video, but there was a huge missed opportunity to talk about when a blade needs to be replaced. As the blade cuts grass, the grass passes over the fin on the back of the blade, which provides the lift. When this fin starts to get thin and flake metal, the blade should be replaced.
Also, NEVER use a 'universal' blade on a lawnmower. Universal blades are notorious for not mounting correctly, and there have been incidents with them coming loose and flying off @ 3600 RPM (over 10 MPH)
OK, but a much faster way is to simply to use up gas mowing. Then, leave the blade on the mower, tip it on it's side, and use the drill sharpener. This saves the difficulty of taking the blade on and off, which is often very difficult.
Engine oil is only changed on "Four Stroke" lawnmowers.
The other type of mower is a "Two Stroke" which use's two stroke oil pre-mixed with fuel at a ratio of about 50:1. DO NOT pre-mix fuel with engine oil you must use two stroke oil. Most chainsaw's are two stroke.
@PunaniLicker69 Whether it's a lawn mower or a car engine, oil wears out and stops lubricating. Also motor oil collects all the dirt and dust and grit and corrosive by-products of combustion. Change the oil and the dirt an crud go with it. Old dirty oil increases wear on the engine's moving parts and shortens engine life. I change my lawnmower oil once a season but check out your owner's manual and see what they recommend for your mower.
@PunaniLicker69 # 1 cause of the engine seizing . . The oil breaks down and no longer prevents friction , no lubrication . And it stops . You Lawn mower will no longer fornicate.
@McMinnManiac ok so should i still change the oil. my dad and i dont know a lot about lawn mowers, and we haven't changed the oil in over 9 years. still works decent though.
@PunaniLicker69 OMG! I want a lawn mower that hardy! I've gone through 6 mowers in 5 years. Expensive Lawn Boy lasted 6 months because they claimed we never changed the oil. We did, but when they checked, the oil was full of metal shavings. Now we use the cheapest lawn mower we could buy. It overheats and only does half the lawn at a time (takes 4 days to mow the front and back). What a pain! Gradually I'm just planting the yard with trees and removing as much grass as possible.
Good video. Okay, now that I've watched it I should go sharpen my blade, change the oil, plug & filter. Might hold off with the oil painting though. Here in California might get the whacko environmentalists on me. :)
Don't use gloves when using a bench grinder. I've seen terrible things happen to people who did that. The glove got caught in the grind wheel and pretty much tore the guys hand apart, breaking in several areas.
Great video. I have a question: I bought my mower just last summer 2010 and mowed my lawn 5 times before putting it away for winter. This season, i started mowing in early April and my blades don't seem to be fairly sharp as i am very careful to mow over rocks and twigs, so here's my question: do i still need to sharpen my blades or do it this winter to get ready for next summer mowing?
Yes a 1/2 HP grinder with 6 in. diameter wheels is just fine for sharpening mower blades. If you're only going to sharpen mower blades, wood-splitting wedges and other mild-steel tools then a conventional high speed grinder (3600 rpm) will be fine. But if you intend to also sharpen tempered tools (wood chisels, knives, etc.) then consider a slow-speed grinder such as the DELTA GR275. These grinders run at 1800 rpm and are less likely to overheat the tool enough to wreck the temper.
@coppertrail Yes a 1/2 HP grinder with 6 in. diameter wheels is just fine for sharpening mower blades. If you're only going to sharpen mower blades, wood-splitting wedges and other mild-steel tools then a conventional high speed grinder (3600 rpm) will be fine. But if you intend to also sharpen tempered tools (wood chisels, knives, etc.) then consider a slow-speed grinder such as the DELTA GR275. These grinders run at 1800 rpm and are less likely to overheat the tool enough to wreck the temper
@coppertrail Yes a 1/2 HP grinder with 6 in. diameter wheels is just fine for sharpening mower blades. If you're only going to sharpen mower blades, wood-splitting wedges and other mild-steel tools then a conventional high speed grinder (3600 rpm) will be fine. But if you intend to also sharpen tempered tools (wood chisels, knives, etc.) then consider a slow-speed grinder such as the DELTA GR275. These grinders run at 1800 rpm and are less likely to overheat the tool enough to wreck the temper
@coppertrail the most important of all is that your blade is in balance! It's the flywheel of the motor! Very very very important that it's in balance! If not, your mower start shacking and vibrating.
I don't agree with removing the spark plug, to be honest. If any dirt gets on those threads, you're going potentially ruin that plug - or worse yet, freeze it up in the bore, and it'll never come out. Yes, you CAN sharpen the blade while on the mower, but you won't know if you've imbalanced it, you'll be taking your chances. Besides, even with wear, the blade can become imbalanced, so it's good to check it once in a while anyway. I like the used oil idea, thanks.
Who doesn't love the internet! David, instead of waiting for 2 weeks for shop maintenance to be done to my mower, I followed your instructions and did it myself in just about an hour, my mower's as good as new now. Thanks for the great tips!
Great video for Grandma, but the techniques are time consuming. There's no need to take the blade off the mower. Tilt the mower up on the side opposite the grass outlet and slide a board or two under the lower frame handle to stabilize the mower. Use a file to dress up the blade edges so they're not so blunt. There's no need to stabilize the blade, that's what your other hand is for. The mower is not going to start suddenly because lawnmowers are equipped with a spring-loaded safety lever.
Great video man! Very informative and well put together! How many times can I sharpen the blade before it is unbalanced or too much has been taken off.
Good question. You should balance the blade every time you sharpen. This is especially important when you have to do any heavy grinding to remove any big knicks from the blade. Just grind an equal amount of metal off from the opposite end to balance. As far as how often can you sharpen? It's a judgement call. I usually replace my blades when I've ground off 1/2 in. or so (about 1.5 cm) but there's no hard rule that I know of.
The used oil is very bad for the environment and your lawn, I work at a lawn equipment shop we use a wire brush on a wiz wheel, wipe with paint thinner and hit it with some cheap primer and paint.
that is an outstanding tip re the used-oil. I can't believe i've never heard that before!
i've also been looking for an excuse to buy a bench grinder. i have a hand-grinder in my air-tool arsenal that has served my grinding needs- but Sears sells one for $70 that it calling my name ;p
A handheld 4.5 inch angle grinder is cheap and useful for more things then one. Most people have a vise. Figure the rest of the story out 4 yourself. I am a tech also. The shop I work at uses a robot style machine. Hands free! Put in the blade, set the angle and walk away for three minutes. The wheels are made 4 grinding Rockwell steel so there is no dust or heat. Same as chainsaw chains. Why breath dust? You can buy a airpowered robot 4 like $19,000.00. The machines are made in Germany.
Nice video. My dad used to do the oil thing also. Because I am good at screwing things up. I use a gray sharpie and mark my parts so I know which side is up and which is down. Thanks for your effort!
Thanks for all the comments folks, pro and con. I can't address them all here but there are a few that came up often. 1. Gloves. I never wear them when grinding--the sparks have never burned my bare hands. 2. Grinding position as shown in the video. If the tool rest is set properly, and supports the blade, there is little risk of a "catch" 3. Motor oil on deck. I wouldn't do it if it didn't work. My mower has little rust in spite of its age. 4. Tilting carburetor up. Good idea
Holy you guys, Darwin will get them eventually, even if you save them while they are working on their lawn mower. (directed at the comments not original video).
I liked how you decided to make this video in OVER 3 minutes, as is common on YouTube. This video is more informative, and I'm sure I can repeat the steps my own mower. Thanks.
Okie dokie I would recommend that you NOT! wear gloves whilst grinding as they can get caught and say goodbye to your fingers or hands. Fact is the grinder sparks dont burn Ive never been hurt by them so if they do hurt you then you shouldnt be doing this kind of work, or as he said use a file. If youve got 1 its always a good idea to use a torque wrench on bolts especially if tis a moving part, if you dont just remember you dont need to put a pipe on the end of your spanner for bolts this size
I do not wish to step on anybody's toes here, but there are a few things that must be addressed. As a certified OPE tech with nearly two decades in the industry, and a city-wide reputation for mower blade sharpening, I'd like to assure folks I know more than a thing or two about the process. 1: NEVER tip the mower on its side at 90 degrees. Only tip it 45 degrees with carb side UP. (see next comment for more)
2: as well as taking out the plug, ground the high tension lead wire on the engine block if it has no rubber boot. Most engines have a little hook for it. This will prevent the wire from sparking against the engine block and igniting fumes (yes I have seen it happen). 3: NEVER hold the blade against a grinding wheel in the fashion Mr. Sloans shows in the video. If that kicks back on you, you are going to be unhappy, believe me.
3: Never coat the underside of the deck with anything. It should be bone dry. If you've ever had a small oil leak on your mower you'd know just how badly it makes EVERYTHING stick to the oil slick. If you are worried about rust, then mow when the grass is dry, not after rain or on a dewy morning. Again, these suggestions are not meant to make anyone look bad, but rather to assist those who may otherwise be injured or have a fuel tank filled with oil simply because they did not know.
Just removing the plug wire is sufficient enough, unless you plan to replace the spark plug..... 2 You can purchase a clamp that goes around the end of the blade to keep the blade from spinning while you remove the bolts for less than $10... and 3 I would not coat the bottom of the lawn mower with oil because grass will stick to it.. Use a teflon spray instead of the oil and spray it when you first purchased the new mower..
Good video. I learned a few things. I think you have your safety priorities a little mixed up, though. You drain all the gas and completely take out the spark plug??? Is accidental lawn mower starting a big problem for you? I usually have enough trouble getting them started when I want to start them! And then you go and hold the razor sharp blade against the bench grinder with your bare hand. Or what if your wrench slips off the blade when you're tightening? Just my two cents.
To folks who are in need of torque wrench , the cheapest and good one i could find was at harbor freight. all other places had it but was expensive. hope this helps.
Now that is a "How To" video right there. Best vid out there on how to service your lawn mower. I just bout a JD mower and had no clue of what to do. This help a bunch! God Bless
Turn your mower on its side :D "O.O MY MOWER IS BURING BLACK!" xD dont turn it over on its side normaly it will flood the mowers piston chamber with oil
Used motor oil is corrosive, so it isn't the best undercoating. Also, getting a gloved hand caught in a bench grinder is much worse than a few sparks hitting your bare hand.
I've never heard that about painting the underside with used motor oil before. Very valuable information, and I will be doing just that tomorrow. I hate seeing all that caked up grass on my mower's underbelly. Thanks for the upload.
Great video! 5 & a half stars. One thing that would be helpful is to always turn mower on side with exhaust side up so that oil won't fill up the valve area. If you rotate the blade with exhaust side down you will ruin your air filter and fill your carb with oil. Good job on blade sharpening also.
was going to buy a new blade...but i think I'll do it myself. One thing... I turned my mower over on the side the other day and the oil came out over the top! imagine all mowers are different...but is there a 'proper side' to turn it on to? thanks
Dude, I do landscaping with a John Deere 1545, and a Honda HRH 536 HXE. I would NEVER take out the sparkplug, when I sharpen my blade (one time every week) ..Also the way you did it, the blade did'nt rotate 1 inch, then why do it..??
I use a belt grinder for the Honda blade, and also for the 3 blades on my John Deere 1545.. You are right, they dont need to be perfect, as long as the angle is acceptable..
@Drone696 I don't know about that man. The mower shown has the blade directly connected 2 the crank shaft. I don't think either of your mowers R set up like that. If the piston happens 2 B at the top of the cylinder, before the power stroke, & by pushing on the blade you cause the spark plug 2 fire, that motor could start! Good bye fingers, hand, who knows?
I'd play it smart & not take the chance. It's a quick & painless step that avoids a potential disaster.
This was great. One thing though: You didn't mention what angle to sharpen the blade at. I know as a machinist that this is important. If the angle is too high the blade will be blunt and preform poorly. If the angle is too low the blade will be too sharp and the cutting edge will quickly "roll over" and become dull. A good angle to strive for when sharpening a knife is 22.5 degrees. How about a lawn mower blade? Maybe 45 degrees max? Once again this was really informative. Thanks.
@evensteve284 Factory specs are loose, and call for 30 to 45 degrees. Mulching blades get tricky to grind, so if your angles are a bit off, no big deal so long as each portion of the grind is a nice one. I have seen some really badly done "home job" blades in my days, ranging from 90 degrees (dull as a brick wall) to Gillette razor thin all within a 5 inch span, lol. Just for reference, I am a certified OPE tech and B&S Master Service Technician, so any seemingly odd questions are welcome.
@JessicaKlieman26 A push mower, or "reel mower" as it is called, requires a special jig to sharpen the reel properly. You actually have to take the reel off the machine to do it right. You CAN use a file at home, but it generally does a poor job. Shops love to gouge you for reel mower sharpening since the jigs used are expensive, and it is time consuming. Easily expect to pay $80 -$100 to have a reel sharpened by a shop. Expect to have a very ugly lawn if you sharpen the reel yourself, lol.
@SuperXU1 Hi there. OK I'm a "yank" so I'll take the bait. What's so funny about Mr. Sloans description of a spark plug? For some people who have no idea of what a spark plug is, "the white thing with the wire sticking out" gets the job done. No? Also, what does it mean to "take the piss out"? Anyway always remember: "righty tighty, lefty loosey! ;-)
One small suggestion I'd like to add is after the spark plug is removed, that's a good time to use a small wire brush to gently clean around the electrodes.
one thing I would like to add always try to lean the mower over away from the exhaust as some mowers allow oil to enter the exhaust if its tipped towards the exhaust side.
I have sharpened some blades while they were on the mower using an angle grinder always wear safety glasses when grinding.
Thanks, great vid! I never thought of painting the underside of the deck with oil, and the old oil, at that! GREAT idea! I think I will do that. My dad always took care of everything like that but is starting to get a little loopy so I've been doing most of all that stuff, I feel like a tomboy but I enjoy it! I never saw him do the oil trick though.
Binnenpad 1 is correct. Bench grinding method shown is good way to cause a jam between grinding wheel and mower blade AND the Hand that is holding the mower blade. Happens faster thank you can blink. D.S. should consider this.
@osi2484 Binnenpad 1 is correct only if U don't know how 2use a bench grinder! I was a machinists 35+ years & used a bench grinder almost every day. When sharpening a tool or blade, ALWAYS grind INTO the cutting edge; NEVER away from it. U have 2learn how 2do this safely. Avoid dangerous kick-back by using the steady rest & keeping the part of the blade you are sharpening above the center line of the grinding wheel. If bench grinders make U nervous (they should), go with 1of the other methods.
@evensteve284 I mean no offense, but what you say is incorrect. NEVER lean an edge into a grinding wheel, if that kicks back on you, it could (A) hit you with the object in your hand, and (B) shatter the grinding wheel causing it to explode like a grenade. I have seen rookies do it, and it isn't funny. Please don't suggest to folks new to grinding wheels that the safe method is to attack the grinding surface at an aggressive angle, it should be delicate, and sloped AWAY from the edge
@SgtZekeAnderson Thanks 4Ur reply; but I'm sticking w/ what I said. Read my post carefully: "U HAVE 2LEARN HOW 2DO THIS SAFELY." &"IF BENCH GRINDERS MAKE U NERVOUS (they should), GO WITH 1OF THE OTHER METHODS." The method I speak of is NOT 4ROOKIES (machinist?). There R 2other ways shown n this vid, Don't know how 2 use a grinder? DON'T TRY IT! Use 1of the other methods. I never said attack or aggressive. I would gladly show U how 2do this safely, &then we'd both know! {;-)cheers 2U my friend
@evensteve284 While I agree with you that repeated practice will let you use a machine in ways that the newcomer may not be able to, it still is unwise to lean an egde into the direction of grinder wheel travel, for rookies or pros alike. By way of similar thought, I know framers who are quite good at jumping from roofs rather than using the ladder, but this still doesn't make it the correct method, smart, or safe. SInce this video is aimed at the novice, the method described in not advised.
@SgtZekeAnderson Stickin' w/ what I said. I'm not talking about the right or wrong way to get off a roof (is whiskey involved in this? Or maybe silo juice? <:-)
Set Ur steady-rest correctly. Grind ABOVE the center line of the wheel. Quench often. Keep Ur cuts quick &light: Don't let heat build up, or quenching will make the steel brittle. If U don't quench & let a 2 hot blade cool down naturally, the steel will aneal & loose it's temper. A brittle or anealed blade will never stay sharp! Bsafe!
Have to disagree with the unsafe method of sharpening using the bench grinder, I cringed thinking of the implications possible when using this method. This is a sure fire method to create a jamming effect resulting in a stalled out motor or wheel damage plus personal injury. Always apply the work to the wheel with the wheel spinning away from the work, not towards it. This is not always shown by instructors but those of us who have learnt the hard way, know exactly what the implications are.
@Binnenpad1 VERY TRUE! Everyone else MUST read what was just said here, it will save you a world of hurt. NEVER grind into the angle like that. You'd be safer hitting rifle rounds with a sledge hammer.
I would recommend against the oil it will cause the grass to stick to the deck, will not help with the rust one bit.. and is bad for the environment. I would also recommend warming the mower up before changing the oil... Otherwise you are wasting your time changing it. I am not sure what makes this guy an expert but honestly he is not doing anything that would pass at a lawnmower shop he would be fired for doing that.
Great Tips. Consider my self a handy man, but found Mr. Sloan's Tips and safety reminders very helpful. Now if he could do a "step by Step" guide to getting your teenager to use that sharpened lawn mower...
Don't run the mower until the tank is empty because the carb will ingest debris and plug it up. Removing the plug is unneccesary if you have disconnected the lead. When you tip over the mower do it when the tank is low and make sure the tank is tipped upwards on the high side to prevent a spill.
@yellowbusguy He doesn't say so, but it IS a good idea to take the spark plug out because that sucker could still take a finger off if you turn it on a compression stroke.
@tonyming6969 THis is true. For all the time it takes to take the plug out, might as well. Besides, you're gonna spend the time, a new $2 plug is probably on the list anyway.
Nice Layman's terms and some great ideas! I like using the block of wood! Oh, for the number of knuckles that could be saved by a simple block of wood. Thanks for the tip about painting the underside with the used oil. I'm 45 years old, have cut grass since I was a kid, and never once thought of that clever , rust preventing idea. Brilliant! Thanks for this awesome post. The common man's mechanic! Many blessings!
This was great, but I was lazy. I didn't take the blade off. I just wedged the blade with wood and filed it, still in the mower with a drill file. Worked great!
A warm *thanks!* from Chicago. As silly as it sounds, I never really knew how to use my hand file until seeing your video. 10 minutes later, my blade is back to new. Again: Thanks!
Great information here. I would add, echoing at least one other comment, that mower blade installation should *always* be done with proper torque (typically around 40 ft. lbs). Correct torque is critical because problems can occur if the blade is installed with either too much *or* not enough torque on the installation bolts. Also, some mowers have special concave washers for the blade bolt(s) that need to be installed in the proper direction. Check the manual for both of these.
FYI, a torque wrench allows you to measure the torque (the twisting force) you apply to a bolt so you don't over tighten or under tighten. They're available at stores (like Sears) that sell automotive tools.
If you HAVE (or can borrow) a torque wrench, by all means use it to tighten bolts to exactly the correct torque listed in your manual. The manual for my mower gives a minimum and maximum torque for my blade bolts so there's some safety margin.
Good video with great info. I'm glad you didn't bore us to death with all the commonsense "safety rules" that the retards need to keep from cutting a foot off. I also liked your tip of using the old oil to coat the deck, take that Greenpeace!
Thanks Mr. Sloan. The alternate methods was a good dimension to put in there. Would you suggest polishing the cutting edge with a fine grit medium? Not sure if that'd make any real difference or not... it's not like it's an airplane.
I've used both 80-grit grinding wheels and 60-grit wheel but can't tell any difference in the way the blade cuts. You're not striving for a razor's edge here, like a wood chisel, so there's no need to fuss to get a fine edge. Right off the grinding wheel (or file) is good enough for a lawnmower blade.
Thanks again. Any ideas on how to increase the updraft to really suck the grass before it gets cut to ensure every blade of grass gets the same type of attention?
I use whats called a high lift blade designed for use with a bagger attachment. If you look at it it is bent more and this causes the grass to be sucked up and blown out the discharge further and faster.
Great video! I'd like to add; I'm not sure I'd go with the used oil brushing on the deck because of environmental concerns (beside that the oil would be gone before the first mow was over if you had a dusty lawn or you'd have oily mud gunk to deal with as well as clippings!) I also know that most blade bolts have a torque setting. Read your manual!
Great video and thank you. I VOTE that Dave do ALL the "DIY" videos!
mytube18301 5 days ago
I would sharpen my blade but its ruined it has a couple of big nicks on it, definitely needs replacing.. Nice trick coating underneath the deck with used motor oil, i should try that.
Besides having an uneven cut i heard if you cut your grass with a dull blade your lawn can catch a disease?
DrinkBeer00 1 month ago
Great video, thanks. Though I had to laugh about "preventing the mower from accidentally starting." You're kidding, right? I have never been able to start a gas mower at all. That's why I own an electric one :)
woodswalker88 2 months ago
Man, You make me wanna go work on my lawnmower : - )
fidely 2 months ago
really well done !!
52tflacon 3 months ago
That was great! Very informative. Thanks!
sallyir 3 months ago
Very good video. You speak clearly, and edit well. Thanks.
bbrother68 4 months ago
Very good video. You speak clearly, and edit well. Thanks.
bbrother68 4 months ago
Wow, sweet! Thanks! I went looing for how to sharpen a blade and learned how to do all the maintenance in about ten minutes. Seeing how easy it is makes me actually want to maintain my mower!
1978Musician1978 4 months ago
@OffroadMadness1 Good idea, thanks.
rzid 4 months ago
thank you really good
tcvaudio 5 months ago
I got this book 2061: By Arthur C Clarke. Can you read it aloud and record it for me?
yerboogieman 5 months ago
Can you sharpen lawn mower blade with a hand file or is it just easier to go buy a new blade? I do not have any type of electric grinder just hand tools. Thanks
mac777daddy 5 months ago
@mac777daddy I use a file and it works fine as long as the blade isn't in too bad of shape to begin with.
rzid 4 months ago
@mac777daddy Sure, a file works fine for sharpening a mower blade. It just takes a little longer.
davidsloan2380 4 months ago
i know a guy who changes oil weekly on his commercial scag . he gets 2x the amount of hours out of the machine in the end . So you can never change the oil too much . Also running 2 cycle in a 4 cycle engine is not a bad thing , it is actually better quality gas
McMinnManiac 6 months ago
it is easiest to use an angle grinder to sharpen the blade price for a cheep one is about $20 good one $75
DBsmallengine 6 months ago
what ever you do dont jam the blade like he did it will bend it
DBsmallengine 6 months ago
Some very helpful tips, especially sharpening and balancing the blade. A couple things I want to mention. I don't feel its necessary to drain the gas out for this job. Removing the park plug means the engine has no way to ignite the fuel. Of course, if you have a fuel shut-off valve installed you can shut it and be extra safe if you really want and leave gas.
hanyoukimura 6 months ago
@hanyoukimura The other thing O wanted to mention is that deck sure was filthy. It really should be washed after each mow, this prevents grass buildup and stops rust from ever starting. My deck has a washout port which makes it really easy, but topping the mower and spraying it is also easy. Also, if you want to prevent rust, clean the underside of the deck really good, prep the surface, then spray on truck bed liner. It's extremely tough and will protect the metal.
hanyoukimura 6 months ago
@hanyoukimura
I know my mower's manual (TROY Bilt) recommends draining the gas any time the engine is tilted to keep from possibly contaminating the air filter.
rzid 5 months ago
I love the video, but there was a huge missed opportunity to talk about when a blade needs to be replaced. As the blade cuts grass, the grass passes over the fin on the back of the blade, which provides the lift. When this fin starts to get thin and flake metal, the blade should be replaced.
Also, NEVER use a 'universal' blade on a lawnmower. Universal blades are notorious for not mounting correctly, and there have been incidents with them coming loose and flying off @ 3600 RPM (over 10 MPH)
sylvanir 7 months ago
Great video! Thanks a lot.
davidandrewkaplan 7 months ago
Nice Man And Good Job
SAFIR27 7 months ago
good, thank u very much from evraya(and howisthat)
evraya1 7 months ago
Excellent, thanks!
k9trek 7 months ago
this was very helpful, thank you.
dangergadet 7 months ago
gloves psh
atitkem 7 months ago
OK, but a much faster way is to simply to use up gas mowing. Then, leave the blade on the mower, tip it on it's side, and use the drill sharpener. This saves the difficulty of taking the blade on and off, which is often very difficult.
joeduck 7 months ago
@joeduck But you can't check the balance of the blade that way!
java575 7 months ago
Engine oil is only changed on "Four Stroke" lawnmowers.
The other type of mower is a "Two Stroke" which use's two stroke oil pre-mixed with fuel at a ratio of about 50:1. DO NOT pre-mix fuel with engine oil you must use two stroke oil. Most chainsaw's are two stroke.
mysales875 7 months ago
i never changed the oil and i had my lawn mower for like 8 years. what happens if u dont change it?
PunaniLicker69 8 months ago
@PunaniLicker69 Whether it's a lawn mower or a car engine, oil wears out and stops lubricating. Also motor oil collects all the dirt and dust and grit and corrosive by-products of combustion. Change the oil and the dirt an crud go with it. Old dirty oil increases wear on the engine's moving parts and shortens engine life. I change my lawnmower oil once a season but check out your owner's manual and see what they recommend for your mower.
davidsloan2380 8 months ago
@davidsloan2380
Great video here! ..... i like the "not changing oil for 8 years" deal. Every season seems a bit much:)
osityan 7 months ago
@PunaniLicker69 # 1 cause of the engine seizing . . The oil breaks down and no longer prevents friction , no lubrication . And it stops . You Lawn mower will no longer fornicate.
McMinnManiac 6 months ago
@McMinnManiac ok so should i still change the oil. my dad and i dont know a lot about lawn mowers, and we haven't changed the oil in over 9 years. still works decent though.
PunaniLicker69 6 months ago
@PunaniLicker69 OMG! I want a lawn mower that hardy! I've gone through 6 mowers in 5 years. Expensive Lawn Boy lasted 6 months because they claimed we never changed the oil. We did, but when they checked, the oil was full of metal shavings. Now we use the cheapest lawn mower we could buy. It overheats and only does half the lawn at a time (takes 4 days to mow the front and back). What a pain! Gradually I'm just planting the yard with trees and removing as much grass as possible.
cinnamonclaw 5 months ago
Good video. Okay, now that I've watched it I should go sharpen my blade, change the oil, plug & filter. Might hold off with the oil painting though. Here in California might get the whacko environmentalists on me. :)
gwdurham 8 months ago
It is possible to start it by rotating the blade. Even just a small amount of rotation could make it fire up.
aaronjarnold78 8 months ago
How in the world could a lawn mower possibly start on it's own ? It is not as though the blade will be receiving a significant turn.
Also, I am interested in raising a rooster, how vocal are they ?
canadaeast 8 months ago
Thanks for the excellent video (except for gloves with a grinder).
jonr5000 8 months ago
DO NOT WEAR GLOVES with a grinder! If your glove gets stuck, you lose a hand.
drephusJ 8 months ago
rooster scared the shit out of me
JJ2cool42 8 months ago 8
@JJ2cool42 me too lol
dsimms6 5 months ago
Don't use gloves when using a bench grinder. I've seen terrible things happen to people who did that. The glove got caught in the grind wheel and pretty much tore the guys hand apart, breaking in several areas.
samalia101 8 months ago
i wonder why isnt the middle part of the blade sharpened?
HumanityWins 8 months ago
Bent blades? Best to replace them.
davidsloan2380 8 months ago
Any suggestions on bent blades?
bubblescubed 8 months ago
Great video. I have a question: I bought my mower just last summer 2010 and mowed my lawn 5 times before putting it away for winter. This season, i started mowing in early April and my blades don't seem to be fairly sharp as i am very careful to mow over rocks and twigs, so here's my question: do i still need to sharpen my blades or do it this winter to get ready for next summer mowing?
Stingerbillion 8 months ago
@Stingerbillion Sorry, i meant "...my blades seem to be still fairly sharp...."
Stingerbillion 8 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Very informative video, with well-detailed instructions. Thank you, Mr. Sloan!
DdangOlBass 8 months ago
Very informative video, with well-detailed instructions. Thank you, Mr. Sloan!
DdangOlBass 8 months ago
I'm considering a 6" 1/5 HP bench grinder to sharpen my mower blade. Is this enough power for blade sharpening?
coppertrail 8 months ago
Yes a 1/2 HP grinder with 6 in. diameter wheels is just fine for sharpening mower blades. If you're only going to sharpen mower blades, wood-splitting wedges and other mild-steel tools then a conventional high speed grinder (3600 rpm) will be fine. But if you intend to also sharpen tempered tools (wood chisels, knives, etc.) then consider a slow-speed grinder such as the DELTA GR275. These grinders run at 1800 rpm and are less likely to overheat the tool enough to wreck the temper.
davidsloan2380 8 months ago
@coppertrail Yes a 1/2 HP grinder with 6 in. diameter wheels is just fine for sharpening mower blades. If you're only going to sharpen mower blades, wood-splitting wedges and other mild-steel tools then a conventional high speed grinder (3600 rpm) will be fine. But if you intend to also sharpen tempered tools (wood chisels, knives, etc.) then consider a slow-speed grinder such as the DELTA GR275. These grinders run at 1800 rpm and are less likely to overheat the tool enough to wreck the temper
davidsloan2380 8 months ago
@coppertrail Yes a 1/2 HP grinder with 6 in. diameter wheels is just fine for sharpening mower blades. If you're only going to sharpen mower blades, wood-splitting wedges and other mild-steel tools then a conventional high speed grinder (3600 rpm) will be fine. But if you intend to also sharpen tempered tools (wood chisels, knives, etc.) then consider a slow-speed grinder such as the DELTA GR275. These grinders run at 1800 rpm and are less likely to overheat the tool enough to wreck the temper
davidsloan2380 8 months ago
@coppertrail the most important of all is that your blade is in balance! It's the flywheel of the motor! Very very very important that it's in balance! If not, your mower start shacking and vibrating.
periesicsd 5 months ago
I don't agree with removing the spark plug, to be honest. If any dirt gets on those threads, you're going potentially ruin that plug - or worse yet, freeze it up in the bore, and it'll never come out. Yes, you CAN sharpen the blade while on the mower, but you won't know if you've imbalanced it, you'll be taking your chances. Besides, even with wear, the blade can become imbalanced, so it's good to check it once in a while anyway. I like the used oil idea, thanks.
Rumpl4skn 8 months ago
Great video!!!
Mav2276 8 months ago
how about once every other week
XXWRD2BIGBRDXX 8 months ago
Who doesn't love the internet! David, instead of waiting for 2 weeks for shop maintenance to be done to my mower, I followed your instructions and did it myself in just about an hour, my mower's as good as new now. Thanks for the great tips!
ericgtr 8 months ago
Great video for Grandma, but the techniques are time consuming. There's no need to take the blade off the mower. Tilt the mower up on the side opposite the grass outlet and slide a board or two under the lower frame handle to stabilize the mower. Use a file to dress up the blade edges so they're not so blunt. There's no need to stabilize the blade, that's what your other hand is for. The mower is not going to start suddenly because lawnmowers are equipped with a spring-loaded safety lever.
LiveRoomVideos 8 months ago
excellent and informative.great video.very helpful
pauletteking 8 months ago
Great video man! Very informative and well put together! How many times can I sharpen the blade before it is unbalanced or too much has been taken off.
robgolfer66 9 months ago
Good question. You should balance the blade every time you sharpen. This is especially important when you have to do any heavy grinding to remove any big knicks from the blade. Just grind an equal amount of metal off from the opposite end to balance. As far as how often can you sharpen? It's a judgement call. I usually replace my blades when I've ground off 1/2 in. or so (about 1.5 cm) but there's no hard rule that I know of.
davidsloan2380 9 months ago
nice cock 0:05
IFknHateUTube 9 months ago
The used oil is very bad for the environment and your lawn, I work at a lawn equipment shop we use a wire brush on a wiz wheel, wipe with paint thinner and hit it with some cheap primer and paint.
pinkfloydeffect 9 months ago
that is an outstanding tip re the used-oil. I can't believe i've never heard that before!
i've also been looking for an excuse to buy a bench grinder. i have a hand-grinder in my air-tool arsenal that has served my grinding needs- but Sears sells one for $70 that it calling my name ;p
nialljamesbuckley 9 months ago
Hey I just got my first lawnmower and this was very informative! Thanks!
sully9088 9 months ago
A handheld 4.5 inch angle grinder is cheap and useful for more things then one. Most people have a vise. Figure the rest of the story out 4 yourself. I am a tech also. The shop I work at uses a robot style machine. Hands free! Put in the blade, set the angle and walk away for three minutes. The wheels are made 4 grinding Rockwell steel so there is no dust or heat. Same as chainsaw chains. Why breath dust? You can buy a airpowered robot 4 like $19,000.00. The machines are made in Germany.
9596959695 9 months ago
K why not show the easy way?
9596959695 9 months ago
Good poop.
fastbackford351 9 months ago
Nice video. My dad used to do the oil thing also. Because I am good at screwing things up. I use a gray sharpie and mark my parts so I know which side is up and which is down. Thanks for your effort!
fstlnj29 9 months ago
love the idea of using a nail to balance the blade v good..
madpaddy73 9 months ago
Great video, thank you for teaching me this.
arsenal25able 10 months ago
Great video, thank you very much for the great advice!
toninduke 10 months ago
Thanks for all the comments folks, pro and con. I can't address them all here but there are a few that came up often. 1. Gloves. I never wear them when grinding--the sparks have never burned my bare hands. 2. Grinding position as shown in the video. If the tool rest is set properly, and supports the blade, there is little risk of a "catch" 3. Motor oil on deck. I wouldn't do it if it didn't work. My mower has little rust in spite of its age. 4. Tilting carburetor up. Good idea
davidsloan2380 10 months ago 4
Do you always fit the sharp edge face up on all mower blades,or are some differant?
benny5825 10 months ago
Holy you guys, Darwin will get them eventually, even if you save them while they are working on their lawn mower. (directed at the comments not original video).
paulsaddress1 10 months ago
I liked how you decided to make this video in OVER 3 minutes, as is common on YouTube. This video is more informative, and I'm sure I can repeat the steps my own mower. Thanks.
zzRider 10 months ago
I really hate mowing my lawn
gmsyd09 11 months ago
Okie dokie I would recommend that you NOT! wear gloves whilst grinding as they can get caught and say goodbye to your fingers or hands. Fact is the grinder sparks dont burn Ive never been hurt by them so if they do hurt you then you shouldnt be doing this kind of work, or as he said use a file. If youve got 1 its always a good idea to use a torque wrench on bolts especially if tis a moving part, if you dont just remember you dont need to put a pipe on the end of your spanner for bolts this size
GeneralG1810 1 year ago
I do not wish to step on anybody's toes here, but there are a few things that must be addressed. As a certified OPE tech with nearly two decades in the industry, and a city-wide reputation for mower blade sharpening, I'd like to assure folks I know more than a thing or two about the process. 1: NEVER tip the mower on its side at 90 degrees. Only tip it 45 degrees with carb side UP. (see next comment for more)
SgtZekeAnderson 1 year ago
2: as well as taking out the plug, ground the high tension lead wire on the engine block if it has no rubber boot. Most engines have a little hook for it. This will prevent the wire from sparking against the engine block and igniting fumes (yes I have seen it happen). 3: NEVER hold the blade against a grinding wheel in the fashion Mr. Sloans shows in the video. If that kicks back on you, you are going to be unhappy, believe me.
SgtZekeAnderson 1 year ago
3: Never coat the underside of the deck with anything. It should be bone dry. If you've ever had a small oil leak on your mower you'd know just how badly it makes EVERYTHING stick to the oil slick. If you are worried about rust, then mow when the grass is dry, not after rain or on a dewy morning. Again, these suggestions are not meant to make anyone look bad, but rather to assist those who may otherwise be injured or have a fuel tank filled with oil simply because they did not know.
SgtZekeAnderson 1 year ago
A very in depth movie, bravo to you. Would there be any particular methods you would recommend for balancing a reel mower once sharpened?
CapeCodFarmer 1 year ago
Just removing the plug wire is sufficient enough, unless you plan to replace the spark plug..... 2 You can purchase a clamp that goes around the end of the blade to keep the blade from spinning while you remove the bolts for less than $10... and 3 I would not coat the bottom of the lawn mower with oil because grass will stick to it.. Use a teflon spray instead of the oil and spray it when you first purchased the new mower..
MrBoy219 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
i wish you were dead
oreolover345 1 year ago
Good video. I learned a few things. I think you have your safety priorities a little mixed up, though. You drain all the gas and completely take out the spark plug??? Is accidental lawn mower starting a big problem for you? I usually have enough trouble getting them started when I want to start them! And then you go and hold the razor sharp blade against the bench grinder with your bare hand. Or what if your wrench slips off the blade when you're tightening? Just my two cents.
instock21 1 year ago
Fantastic video. Thanks.
AdamB5000 1 year ago
rooster's hollerin at 6:11.
namebrandaddikt 1 year ago
Thank you for the video.
To folks who are in need of torque wrench , the cheapest and good one i could find was at harbor freight. all other places had it but was expensive. hope this helps.
fishfrompluto 1 year ago
Very informative!
geniemaster100 1 year ago
That's a nice Rooster!
TillHeartStops777 1 year ago
Thanks, great video
keep the love and peace
1tim315carlos 1 year ago
this information this was really helpful.
is it just me or does this guy have the sexiest voice ever?!?!?
jewellgroove 1 year ago
@jewellgroove Its Just you!
XtraMile1 1 year ago
@jewellgroove
XtraMile1 1 year ago
Thanks for posting - I like the old oil trick to preserve the deck
Ismlor 1 year ago
Now that is a "How To" video right there. Best vid out there on how to service your lawn mower. I just bout a JD mower and had no clue of what to do. This help a bunch! God Bless
kalysbest 1 year ago
Turn your mower on its side :D "O.O MY MOWER IS BURING BLACK!" xD dont turn it over on its side normaly it will flood the mowers piston chamber with oil
justin7674 1 year ago
Informative video.
Used motor oil is corrosive, so it isn't the best undercoating. Also, getting a gloved hand caught in a bench grinder is much worse than a few sparks hitting your bare hand.
michel43garcia 1 year ago
Great information. Thank you!
sm75038 1 year ago
I've never heard that about painting the underside with used motor oil before. Very valuable information, and I will be doing just that tomorrow. I hate seeing all that caked up grass on my mower's underbelly. Thanks for the upload.
BooKittyRadley 1 year ago
Great video! 5 & a half stars. One thing that would be helpful is to always turn mower on side with exhaust side up so that oil won't fill up the valve area. If you rotate the blade with exhaust side down you will ruin your air filter and fill your carb with oil. Good job on blade sharpening also.
snaponjohn100 1 year ago
was going to buy a new blade...but i think I'll do it myself. One thing... I turned my mower over on the side the other day and the oil came out over the top! imagine all mowers are different...but is there a 'proper side' to turn it on to? thanks
pauljohn1965 1 year ago
nice job!
jfinan71 1 year ago
Dude, I do landscaping with a John Deere 1545, and a Honda HRH 536 HXE. I would NEVER take out the sparkplug, when I sharpen my blade (one time every week) ..Also the way you did it, the blade did'nt rotate 1 inch, then why do it..??
I use a belt grinder for the Honda blade, and also for the 3 blades on my John Deere 1545.. You are right, they dont need to be perfect, as long as the angle is acceptable..
Drone696 1 year ago
@Drone696 I don't know about that man. The mower shown has the blade directly connected 2 the crank shaft. I don't think either of your mowers R set up like that. If the piston happens 2 B at the top of the cylinder, before the power stroke, & by pushing on the blade you cause the spark plug 2 fire, that motor could start! Good bye fingers, hand, who knows?
I'd play it smart & not take the chance. It's a quick & painless step that avoids a potential disaster.
REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG! Cheers
evensteve284 1 year ago
This was great. One thing though: You didn't mention what angle to sharpen the blade at. I know as a machinist that this is important. If the angle is too high the blade will be blunt and preform poorly. If the angle is too low the blade will be too sharp and the cutting edge will quickly "roll over" and become dull. A good angle to strive for when sharpening a knife is 22.5 degrees. How about a lawn mower blade? Maybe 45 degrees max? Once again this was really informative. Thanks.
evensteve284 1 year ago
@evensteve284 Factory specs are loose, and call for 30 to 45 degrees. Mulching blades get tricky to grind, so if your angles are a bit off, no big deal so long as each portion of the grind is a nice one. I have seen some really badly done "home job" blades in my days, ranging from 90 degrees (dull as a brick wall) to Gillette razor thin all within a 5 inch span, lol. Just for reference, I am a certified OPE tech and B&S Master Service Technician, so any seemingly odd questions are welcome.
SgtZekeAnderson 1 year ago
do you have a video of how to sharpen a push mower
JessicaKlieman26 1 year ago
@JessicaKlieman26 A push mower, or "reel mower" as it is called, requires a special jig to sharpen the reel properly. You actually have to take the reel off the machine to do it right. You CAN use a file at home, but it generally does a poor job. Shops love to gouge you for reel mower sharpening since the jigs used are expensive, and it is time consuming. Easily expect to pay $80 -$100 to have a reel sharpened by a shop. Expect to have a very ugly lawn if you sharpen the reel yourself, lol.
SgtZekeAnderson 1 year ago
LMAO."It"s this white thing with a wire stickin' out"You yanks are a crackup!"And take that spark plug right outa there"
SuperXU1 1 year ago
@SuperXU1, i take it you are from the uk like me, as you have similar humor to me!
05clenharth 1 year ago
@05clenharth Nah,i'm an Aussie mate.I like takin' the piss outa the yanks though!LOL
SuperXU1 1 year ago
@SuperXU1 Hi there. OK I'm a "yank" so I'll take the bait. What's so funny about Mr. Sloans description of a spark plug? For some people who have no idea of what a spark plug is, "the white thing with the wire sticking out" gets the job done. No? Also, what does it mean to "take the piss out"? Anyway always remember: "righty tighty, lefty loosey! ;-)
evensteve284 1 year ago
great video. Thanks
normynull 1 year ago
Thank you, that was a very informative and helpful video.
shashwa 1 year ago
Try Permatex Anti Seize on the Blade bolts. Provided the blade is not on too tight
you will be able to remove it by hand next time (no 2X4 needed!!!).
oliverjohn455 1 year ago
One small suggestion I'd like to add is after the spark plug is removed, that's a good time to use a small wire brush to gently clean around the electrodes.
rabidfuzzybunny 1 year ago
Great tips!
imaginesc4 1 year ago
From a girl who doesn't know jack about lawn mower care, I appreciate this play by play show me how to do it!
Bluzrooster 1 year ago
one thing I would like to add always try to lean the mower over away from the exhaust as some mowers allow oil to enter the exhaust if its tipped towards the exhaust side.
I have sharpened some blades while they were on the mower using an angle grinder always wear safety glasses when grinding.
chox2001 1 year ago
Thanks, great vid! I never thought of painting the underside of the deck with oil, and the old oil, at that! GREAT idea! I think I will do that. My dad always took care of everything like that but is starting to get a little loopy so I've been doing most of all that stuff, I feel like a tomboy but I enjoy it! I never saw him do the oil trick though.
shelmarie87 1 year ago
@shelmarie87 There's nothing wrong with a tomboy. I'm a guy who knows.
evensteve284 1 year ago
Binnenpad 1 is correct. Bench grinding method shown is good way to cause a jam between grinding wheel and mower blade AND the Hand that is holding the mower blade. Happens faster thank you can blink. D.S. should consider this.
osi2484 1 year ago
@osi2484 Binnenpad 1 is correct only if U don't know how 2use a bench grinder! I was a machinists 35+ years & used a bench grinder almost every day. When sharpening a tool or blade, ALWAYS grind INTO the cutting edge; NEVER away from it. U have 2learn how 2do this safely. Avoid dangerous kick-back by using the steady rest & keeping the part of the blade you are sharpening above the center line of the grinding wheel. If bench grinders make U nervous (they should), go with 1of the other methods.
evensteve284 1 year ago
@evensteve284 I mean no offense, but what you say is incorrect. NEVER lean an edge into a grinding wheel, if that kicks back on you, it could (A) hit you with the object in your hand, and (B) shatter the grinding wheel causing it to explode like a grenade. I have seen rookies do it, and it isn't funny. Please don't suggest to folks new to grinding wheels that the safe method is to attack the grinding surface at an aggressive angle, it should be delicate, and sloped AWAY from the edge
SgtZekeAnderson 1 year ago
@SgtZekeAnderson Thanks 4Ur reply; but I'm sticking w/ what I said. Read my post carefully: "U HAVE 2LEARN HOW 2DO THIS SAFELY." &"IF BENCH GRINDERS MAKE U NERVOUS (they should), GO WITH 1OF THE OTHER METHODS." The method I speak of is NOT 4ROOKIES (machinist?). There R 2other ways shown n this vid, Don't know how 2 use a grinder? DON'T TRY IT! Use 1of the other methods. I never said attack or aggressive. I would gladly show U how 2do this safely, &then we'd both know! {;-)cheers 2U my friend
evensteve284 1 year ago
@evensteve284 While I agree with you that repeated practice will let you use a machine in ways that the newcomer may not be able to, it still is unwise to lean an egde into the direction of grinder wheel travel, for rookies or pros alike. By way of similar thought, I know framers who are quite good at jumping from roofs rather than using the ladder, but this still doesn't make it the correct method, smart, or safe. SInce this video is aimed at the novice, the method described in not advised.
SgtZekeAnderson 1 year ago
@SgtZekeAnderson Stickin' w/ what I said. I'm not talking about the right or wrong way to get off a roof (is whiskey involved in this? Or maybe silo juice? <:-)
Set Ur steady-rest correctly. Grind ABOVE the center line of the wheel. Quench often. Keep Ur cuts quick &light: Don't let heat build up, or quenching will make the steel brittle. If U don't quench & let a 2 hot blade cool down naturally, the steel will aneal & loose it's temper. A brittle or anealed blade will never stay sharp! Bsafe!
evensteve284 1 year ago
Putting a board against the blade that way can bend the blade, causing a mean vibration. Keep your wood 90deg to the blade.
puuttpuutt 1 year ago
TY!
joetylerdale 1 year ago
I would have liked a complete video it seems you missed the ending and just verbaly hurried it up... oh well..
Dorisequador 1 year ago
Very informative and nicely done video........Thanks!!!
jd454545 1 year ago
Have to disagree with the unsafe method of sharpening using the bench grinder, I cringed thinking of the implications possible when using this method. This is a sure fire method to create a jamming effect resulting in a stalled out motor or wheel damage plus personal injury. Always apply the work to the wheel with the wheel spinning away from the work, not towards it. This is not always shown by instructors but those of us who have learnt the hard way, know exactly what the implications are.
Binnenpad1 1 year ago
@Binnenpad1 VERY TRUE! Everyone else MUST read what was just said here, it will save you a world of hurt. NEVER grind into the angle like that. You'd be safer hitting rifle rounds with a sledge hammer.
SgtZekeAnderson 1 year ago
I would recommend against the oil it will cause the grass to stick to the deck, will not help with the rust one bit.. and is bad for the environment. I would also recommend warming the mower up before changing the oil... Otherwise you are wasting your time changing it. I am not sure what makes this guy an expert but honestly he is not doing anything that would pass at a lawnmower shop he would be fired for doing that.
h2oconsulting 1 year ago
Thanks for posting
youronesickpuppy 1 year ago
Great Tips. Consider my self a handy man, but found Mr. Sloan's Tips and safety reminders very helpful. Now if he could do a "step by Step" guide to getting your teenager to use that sharpened lawn mower...
devastatordre 1 year ago
This is really helpful! Many thanks!
Archer5219 1 year ago
hmm I would not use old motor oil as rust shield , due to the sulfur levels in old motor oil it could accelerate the rust process...
2NDLTSTEEN 1 year ago
Don't run the mower until the tank is empty because the carb will ingest debris and plug it up. Removing the plug is unneccesary if you have disconnected the lead. When you tip over the mower do it when the tank is low and make sure the tank is tipped upwards on the high side to prevent a spill.
yellowbusguy 1 year ago
@yellowbusguy He doesn't say so, but it IS a good idea to take the spark plug out because that sucker could still take a finger off if you turn it on a compression stroke.
tonyming6969 1 year ago
@tonyming6969 THis is true. For all the time it takes to take the plug out, might as well. Besides, you're gonna spend the time, a new $2 plug is probably on the list anyway.
SgtZekeAnderson 1 year ago
Nice Layman's terms and some great ideas! I like using the block of wood! Oh, for the number of knuckles that could be saved by a simple block of wood. Thanks for the tip about painting the underside with the used oil. I'm 45 years old, have cut grass since I was a kid, and never once thought of that clever , rust preventing idea. Brilliant! Thanks for this awesome post. The common man's mechanic! Many blessings!
Rolco64 1 year ago
Great video! Thanks for the info.
erjmesa 1 year ago
This was great, but I was lazy. I didn't take the blade off. I just wedged the blade with wood and filed it, still in the mower with a drill file. Worked great!
ailandpete 1 year ago
the tip about painting the deck with the used oil was news to me. thank you for the tips
irock1987 1 year ago
lawn mowers start up all the time on there own . also ghost's try to start them up if your working on them . always take out that spark plug first .
keeza333 1 year ago
Great tutorial. Thanks a lot!
pjmsullivan 1 year ago
great how to video. thanks
cgragg78 1 year ago
A warm *thanks!* from Chicago. As silly as it sounds, I never really knew how to use my hand file until seeing your video. 10 minutes later, my blade is back to new. Again: Thanks!
biggity007 1 year ago
Thanks for sharing your valuable experience.
shahram1962 2 years ago 11
Thanks from Australia mate, you just saved me a hundred bucks
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JamesWoods234 2 years ago
Great information here. I would add, echoing at least one other comment, that mower blade installation should *always* be done with proper torque (typically around 40 ft. lbs). Correct torque is critical because problems can occur if the blade is installed with either too much *or* not enough torque on the installation bolts. Also, some mowers have special concave washers for the blade bolt(s) that need to be installed in the proper direction. Check the manual for both of these.
Lonerider191 2 years ago 2
FYI, a torque wrench allows you to measure the torque (the twisting force) you apply to a bolt so you don't over tighten or under tighten. They're available at stores (like Sears) that sell automotive tools.
If you HAVE (or can borrow) a torque wrench, by all means use it to tighten bolts to exactly the correct torque listed in your manual. The manual for my mower gives a minimum and maximum torque for my blade bolts so there's some safety margin.
davidsloan2380 2 years ago
When changing your oil, if you tip your mower on the other side so the drain bolt is facing up, you should have no mess what so ever.
glennyjanineypoo 2 years ago
Good video with great info. I'm glad you didn't bore us to death with all the commonsense "safety rules" that the retards need to keep from cutting a foot off. I also liked your tip of using the old oil to coat the deck, take that Greenpeace!
elebeu 2 years ago
I think greenpeace would approve -it's recycling.
ADumbUsername 2 years ago
You are the best "how to" guy on youtube!!! 7/5 *
Geminimissions 2 years ago
Thanks Mr. Sloan. The alternate methods was a good dimension to put in there. Would you suggest polishing the cutting edge with a fine grit medium? Not sure if that'd make any real difference or not... it's not like it's an airplane.
sgtjasonshrout 2 years ago
I've used both 80-grit grinding wheels and 60-grit wheel but can't tell any difference in the way the blade cuts. You're not striving for a razor's edge here, like a wood chisel, so there's no need to fuss to get a fine edge. Right off the grinding wheel (or file) is good enough for a lawnmower blade.
davidsloan2380 2 years ago
Thanks again. Any ideas on how to increase the updraft to really suck the grass before it gets cut to ensure every blade of grass gets the same type of attention?
sgtjasonshrout 2 years ago
I use whats called a high lift blade designed for use with a bagger attachment. If you look at it it is bent more and this causes the grass to be sucked up and blown out the discharge further and faster.
StarCar98 2 years ago
everytime i sharpen my blades i think about that maximum overdrive movie.
capfl2k5 2 years ago
AIN'T GOT NO GAS IN IT! Um Hmmm. I reckon I'll try that der oil trick. Um hmmm. It ought to do good at keepin' 'em clean. uhhh.
Some people call 'em kaiser blades, I call 'em slang blades. Um hmm.
A'right den.
Thanks for the video...great tips!
GTOGreg 2 years ago 5
Nice Video
bigfishn 2 years ago
Great video! I'd like to add; I'm not sure I'd go with the used oil brushing on the deck because of environmental concerns (beside that the oil would be gone before the first mow was over if you had a dusty lawn or you'd have oily mud gunk to deal with as well as clippings!) I also know that most blade bolts have a torque setting. Read your manual!
kulajon 2 years ago
Great tutorial!
rcgarcia74 2 years ago
IM LEARNING SO MUCH!
MostRandomPage 2 years ago
THANK YOU!
TKE451 2 years ago
well done
TheOmegadon 2 years ago