Added: 2 years ago
From: wyldediver
Views: 46,455
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (141)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Ever try a Work Sharp Knife & Tool Sharpener? Debating between a 1 x 30 sander or the Work Sharp. The 1 x 30 sanders I've seen on the web have 1/3 hp motors and seem pretty week, just curious if your sander has a 1/3 hp motor or not. I'm sure both work well as long as you know what the hell you're doing.

  • what grinder is that

  • WOW! Thanks! I'm going to have to get me a belt sander now! I'm so tired of doing everything free hand.

  • lol "saftey first" as u go to stab urself in the eye

  • No discredit to wyldediver because this is a great video. I used the harbor freight machine for a while but was looking for a way to have quick repeatable results every time. I found that with the Viel 1x42 belt sander and knife sharpening attachment. The cost is a little more ($200) but if you are going to sharpen for money then you need quick repeatable results every time.

  • Great video; I cant' find a sander that you can easly remove the belts. Could you tell me what kind you have and where i could buy one. Thank you.

  • For those wanting to sharpen an axe, or a machette, or hedge clippers, etc, I'd recommend putting the blade in a vise, and using an angle grinder, or a file to do the heavy work (you'll save a lot of wear and tear on your belts), then finish on a belt sander, (use a larger angle on an axe). For those who don't know this trick, you can put a hand held, woodworkers belt sander upside down in a vise, and it will work simular to a table mounted belt sander. You can even make a knife with it.

  • Belts where do u get them

  • Thanks for the video

  • I will add that it works great on axes and machetes too.

    You can often buy these belt sanders on Craigs List. I found a like new, heavy duty, 1 x 42 Craftsman with 1/3 hp motor, on a nice floor stand for $100. It included several belts (for wood).

    I own a Lansky Deluxe Diamond system which now collects dust.

  • I've been using this simple and easy method for several months with incredible results :) I've sharpened literally over 200 knives (all mine and several friends) and the belts are still going. Once you get a knife hair popping sharp, it only takes a fine belt and/or just the leather strop to bring it back to extremely sharp. It is not rocket science. Don't stress over the exact angle. Use light pressure, watch for the burr to form. Good lighting helps me see the burr. Excellent video. Thanks!!

  • Thanks for this video. Would you please tell me the sander that your using, make and model as well as where you purchased it? Thank you!

  • So do you ever or do you know how to clean your Surgi-sharp leather belt? I think I have too much compound on it at this time. It is fairly rough right now, and I'd like to clean it a bit

  • Just heard about sharpening this way. Thanks for the video. Very informative. I think I know what the wife will be getting me for Christmas lol.

  • Just got a set up like with. 5 belts and one leather belt. What a great sharpening system. Just finished sharpening up a katana I have had for some time. By far the easiest most effictive sharpening system ive used. Thanks for the video.

  • Amazing video, ive got an old buck #24 knife that i refinished and just havent been able to get a proper edge, so considering i have that same belt sander ill have to try this.

  • Excellent - great sharpening video

  • What brand and HP is your sander? Sounds like it has enough ass for the job unlike some others I have seen. Is it a 1"X30" ?

  • What kind of belt sander is that?

  • Thanks

  • So Im sitting here watching this while I strop my 12 inch Cold Steel tanto by hand with a leather belt...did you have to make the leather belts or did you buy them. I must know.

  • @chevydad83 I bought the leather belts from lee valley dot com in the sharpening section.

  • Oh by the way how much do you charge for sharpening service?

  • Do you think this method would work for really hard steels? Like my spyderco endura 4 in VG-10? (Rockwell hardness of 60)

  • @cokerewardsbarrycent VG-10 isn't a particularly high wear resistant steel, compared to a lot of other options out there; I've fully reprofiled several of my knives to a full height convex on S90V and ZDP-189 blades, but they wear out belts like a bitch, VG-10 on the other hand is a breeze.

  • What angle would you say you keep the knife at with respect to the vertical, when it is contacting the belting?

  • @454Casull it absolutely varies on every single knife and edged tool. a Kitchen knife vs an ax, I would say, is easily 20 degrees or more...

  • @wyldediver Thanks. Can you give an example?

  • @454Casull an example of what friend?

  • @wyldediver An example of what kind of angle you would put on the different types of knives you have.

  • @454Casull Can you also sharpen machetes this way? I mean to establish an edge if it comes factory dull.

  • @TheDarkJesters I don't see why not, but you might've wanted to ask wyldediver instead of me.

    You'll definitely run through belts a lot faster doing machetes compared to kitchen knives.

  • Do I need to use a different strop for each sharpening compound or can I apply them to the same belt?

  • Thanks for the video..nicely done.

  • What belt sander is that?

  • @MrTefached it is a discontinued Wilton

  • I read all your posts.I just got a 1x30 sander from harbor freight.It also has a 5" disc sander,big deal.But in your post you said you can add a spring to make it easier to change belts.I assume that might have been the older green 1x30 without the disc sander,this new yellow sander has the spring built in,so belt changes are a snap.Just thought I would let you know cause you said you would have wanted another Wilton.What are the part numbers of the belts you use?Thanks for the video.....

  • We sharpen 20,000 knives a week for restaurants ect,With Cozzini machines,One guy 1500 in 8 hours,With knives being run thru a hollowgrinder first.Nice job on yours well done,i'll do that some day in retirement in fla.

  • Excellent instruction!

    After watching this video a few months ago, I searched all over the web for a Wilton - no luck. I ended up buying a Viel S5 sander (w/o motor). I had a motor. Ordered some belts from Lee Valley Tool and I'm really very happy with the results :)

    I can put a hair popping edge on all my knives in a fraction of the time it took with my Lansky Diamond stone set up.

    Thanks again for the excellent instructional video.

  • Where can i buy the leather belts for my sander? I have a 4" x 36". If they dont sell this size, could i use a smaller width like your machine?

  • @thenorthwoodsFH I get my 1x30 belts from leevalleys website. I am not sure on a size like yours though, sorry.

  • hey, can you put a convex edge on my esee junglas?

  • @l1ttleguy1 I sure can. I have done a couple of those for customers.

  • @l1ttleguy1 nice, do you have a website or something?

  • @l1ttleguy1 I do not. I have a vendor subforum on bushcraftusa though for kydex, leather work and sharpening services. I go by TwinBlade there.

  • Now I just need a belt sander and those belts

  • Thanks man, this is a great video. Now I just need to get the belts for my 1x30 belt sander. Where do you get your belts? Are they silicon carbide, aluminum oxide, emery, or zirconia? How long do they tend to last?

    One last question, do you know the Rockwell C hardness of the steel on the bravo I?

  • @eddiekern 58Rc on the hardness...it is A2 steel. I get my belts from leevalleys website.

  • Thanks for this video too btw

  • That is a B A knife I have one

    

  • Great video with very good instruction.

  • man this makes my DMT Aligner setup look weak... what is the brand of that sander?

  • @QuadTap It is a discontinued Wilton. I wish I could find another one, just in case...

  • Also... Where do you get a buffing belt to shine up the knife apart from sharpening it?

  • Micron Grades (µ)

    Approximate sandpaper-grit equivalent

    80µ - 180

    60µ - 220

    40µ - 320

    30µ - 400

    15µ - 600

    9µ - 1200

    2µ - 6000

    1µ - 8000

  • How do you maintain your sanding belts. I'm new to knife care and I have the same belt sander. I find that the sanding belts lose their effectiveness fairly quick. What do you do to preserve the belt's effectiveness?

  • @XANZYX A great question. Anything 400 grit or more aggressive, I don't bother. For my micron belts, I use a pink pearl eraser and LIGHTLY take a corner and drag it across the 1" cross section of the belt as it spins. This removes a lot of metal particulate. For my leather belts, I simply add a light touch of compound every month or two.

  • @wyldediver Thank you dude. I bet I'm the only person in NYC that sharpens knives. I am getting hammered in my office. The people are going nuts here. Everyone want's me to sharpen their knives.

  • @wyldediver I just Googled a pink pearl eraser and it is a regular eraser i can buy at the local stationary store. Kool. Thanx

  • Where did you say to get the stropping compound and where else is the best places to get belts, leather belts and compounds, thanks

  • Where did you say you can get the green and black compound I could not tell and where is the best place to get supplies belts, leather belts and compound, Great video.

  • Wyldediver, have you done this with tanto blades?

  • @turbotension I certainly have. My friend has a Browning folder Tanto point that I did for him. I have sharpened Goloks, Ax's, Parangs, recurves, regular knives, scissors, lawn mower blades and anything else that takes an edge with this method. It is full proof. Thanks for watching.

  • where do you find the belts for that sander? I haven't been able to find anything finer than 400 grit

  • @axlegod83

    leevalley . com has them in the sharpening section. 20 micron and 9 micron are the consecutive belts after 400 that I use. Thanks for watching.

  • I'm definitely going to have to get one of these. lol I've seen a few vids on them and it's ridiculous how fast it is to get an edge that takes me forever to get by hand! What's a ballpark figure on the sander and belts if you don't mind me asking?

  • @DefMunky75 Don't mind at all friend. The problem with the one I am using is it is discontinued. Harbor Freight and Northern Tool catalogs and web sites have them for about $40. You will double that with the leather belts at $20 each. add another $15-20 for belts and you are in business...if you buy like 5 at a time like I do. You now have about $100 spent on something that doesn't have any need to micro manage a bevel to the gazillionth of a degree that costs $60, puts on a wicked polished edge

  • @DefMunky75 I did want to add, while this method will do that knife in your Dad's drawer that no one wants to tackle because of how bad a shape it is in, I STRONGLY suggest you get a couple $0.99 knives at the hardware store and make a couple practice runs removing serrations on them. It will be money well spent to learn on.

  • @wyldediver lol, if you knew my dad you wouldn't let him anywhere near a knife... I think my old man could injure himself with a butter knife. ;)

    I was asking as I saw a system from EdgeMasters. Same setup for $180. I looked up the sander and figured it couldn't be near that much for everything even after getting belts. I'm very consistent with my angles on a stone, but yeah, I was thinking about hitting up the thrift stores or something and getting some cheap knives to play with. Thanks!

  • Damn, I collect knives and this makes my skin crawl. Talk about values going to crap. Also, this is great for creating a good edge but there are probably one in 50 people that have the skills to do this without screwing up the knife. Believe me, I have seen it way too often.

  • @YouToobWatcher3

    My knives are users. I sell very few of them. While Randall's, Lile's and Loveless knives are all collectible and safe queens, I have none of them, nor will I ever.

    Besides, REGARDLESS OF HOW YOU SHARPEN A KNIFE, it will go down in value. You said you "collect" knives. This is definitely not the video for you.

  • @wyldediver How true is that.

  • @YouToobWatcher3 Knives are for cutting, not looking at. They have no value if they are not used. Dependability in a tool like a knife is worth 10 fold whatever you pay for knives for collecting. If someone tells you a knife is really great but it actually doesn't cut for crap, why is it even great?

  • @ob1korobi I beg to disagree. Yes knives are for cutting and they are also for collecting. I suppose if you ran into an original Bowie knife you would sharpen it and use it for cutting. I don't think so.

  • @YouToobWatcher3 I guess it depends on the condition. If it was in good shape I would definitely get it sharpened and use it. But I normally don't use Bowies for any kind of practical application. I suppose if I was doing a backpacking excursion or something where I was in the wild for a long duration I might carry a Bowie. Normally I just use a Strider, Spyderco or my Horton EDC. Also my Buck 110 is a great go to knife for wearing on the belt.

  • @ob1korobi Yeah right, you would take an original Bowie knife in good condition and get it sharpened and use it. Have you any idea how much money that would be worth. I think you speak without thinking.

  • @YouToobWatcher3 It's just a knife. This really isn't the video for you man. Probably should not be viewing a video on sharpening if you are going to comment on collecting since you only will be looking at the knife. I think this conversation is over from my end. I have nothing more to add.

  • @ob1korobi Who are you to tell me a video isn't for me. I will watch and comment on anything I please on YouTube. You have nothing more to add and never did.

  • @YouToobWatcher3 Ha. Okay then . Not sure why you are so defensive. Moving on.

  • @ob1korobi Hey I'm not defensive at all. I just don't let people who think they can tell me what I should or should not watch get away with it. Please move on now.

  • @YouToobWatcher3 I can think whatever I want as well. Not sure what high horse you are on. maybe it is all the dog food you ate. Stop being a jerk and leave it be. You are not helping anything.

  • @ob1korobi I suppose you just want to argue. You have already stated twice you were done with this conversation. It shows a lot about your character. I pity your wife and children. I also see that you have visited my page. You are so f'ing dense you can't even tell that video was put up as a spoof. Read the comments section. You sir are an idiot. I on the other hand do have character and I am done with this and with you. You probably need the last word so have at it. Goodbye.

  • To be fair, there is some research done by Roman Landes (PhD Metallurgist) that suggests that the last few microns of edge will be heated above the tempering temperature when using power tools. As I said, my belt sander sharpened knives are equal to or better than my waterstone and stropped knives. Both will hold an edge and cut wire bread ties without chipping. I suspect the leather removes the heated part. Performance suggests no harm is done when power sharpened properly.

  • @wolpack1116 Could this, possibly, be the "burr" that I stress? :D

    Not a lot new under the sun. Raising a burr is the start of refinement. How that burr, or excess of material, gets removed really shouldn't matter as long as the results are the same, which I suspect, with what you say...and I believe it...are the same.

  • Congratulations, a quick and easy way to ruin knives for good.

  • @kaizoebara You've obviously never tried it.

  • @wolpack1116 Why would I try something that can ruin my knives? The heat that power tools generate will draw the temper, if not from the blade as a whole, it will surely do so at the very edge.

  • @kaizoebara I've not notices any difference between belt sharpened and hand stone sharpened knives of mine. Like everything else, there is a right way and wrong way. Light pressure, fresh belts, quick smooth movements, and not lingering in one spot will prevent overheating. Also, some steels are much more tolerant of high temperatures. The last knife I made was tempered at 1000 F for 2 hours. No problem using a belt sander on that steel.

  • @kaizoebara You would do well to listen to wolpack1116 and learn.

  • @wyldediver I still decide from whom to take advice. I choose scientists, who actually know what they write about, rather than Joe Average who comments on a youtube video, thank you.

  • @kaizoebara You do realize knives are made by removing stock via grinding wheels and belt sanders don't you? You also do realize that nearly every single production knife out there is sharpened through a set of rotating wheels that grind the edge after heat treat as well don't you? Maybe your scientists forgot to mention that to you...

  • @wyldediver I know that, since I have personally visitied a number of knife factories. This, however, doesn't mean, that it is the best way. This rather means that this is the cheapest way. As an aside, there are special coolants for belts and belts already impregnated, but I doubt that many will use either, since these are more expensive.

    I have a number of knives that have benefited from repeated resharpening, because the factory sharpening left the edge either soft or brittle.

  • @kaizoebara So scientists cant post replies on youtube?

  • @wolpack1116 Sure they can, but insead of personal experience, they would speak of experiments (accurate measurement, repeatability, etc) or give references.

    The work by Landes, which you have mentioned, is a very good resource; I encourage every knife enthusiast to read his publications. Verhoeven is also worth studying, not only b/c some of his work is availiable online for free.

  • @wolpack1116 You sir, are absolutely correct. I have sharpened many many thousands of dollars of knives this way. I certainly wouldn't do so, from a common sense standpoint, if I knew it would draw the temper out or ruin the edge.

  • Painful.... yep

  • Very nice.

  • where could one get a small belt sander like this? I looked on google but all that came up where belt sanders that looked like planers.

  • @SPCkeith My friend, if I could find it again, I would buy another one. Wilton, I have come to find out, has discontinued this model. The $35 harbor freight models are ok, but lack the quick release spring pulley to swap out belts fast.

  • @wyldediver aside from changing the best fast is there any other reason not to buy the $35 ones. I found a grizzly for about $55 that looked ok. .

  • I think I paid $45 on sale for it.

  • How much did that sharpener cost way back when?

  • I called Wilton, and that model of sander is no longer produced.

  • @AZwildcat45

    That sucks. It is a good belt sander. No wonder I can't find it anywhere...

  • Comment removed

  • Comment removed

  • Oh I forgot, what kind of grinder is that you are using?

  • It is a Wilton model 91046. I can't find it anywhere online...I mean nowhere. I got it at Farm and Fleet here in Southeast Wisconsin. I should have bought 2. The rapid change out tensioner feature is excellent and all the pulleys ride on bearings. If you find one, let me know and I will get another one.

  • 20 micron is 600 grit and 9 micron is 1200 grit for all the viewers that are wondering.

    @Wyldediver - Have you ever used 2000 grit vs. stropping with compound? Just curious, if you had tried it and had better results with one or the other.

    Thanks for the video!

  • The black compound actually is a mild abrasive so you would be defeating the purpose. Matter of fact, when I sharpen by hand, I work my way up, depending on any nicks or how dull it is, through 1500, 2000, and 2500 grit before I hit the compounds. The reason I go all the way to 2500 is it saves a LOT of work on the leather and compound. The belt sander allows you to go to 1200 and skip the finer grits because the leather works faster and more efficiently. Thanks for watching.

  • Cool thanks. You're very informative.

  • @EnigmaMyth

    I have used 2000 grit when I sharpen by hand, then go to 2500 and then hit the compounds. 2000 grit by hand, acts a lot like 1200 with a belt. You still get a little micro burr from it that needs to be refined and polished.

  • You got it man.

    Tubberus, I have been there. It sucks. You will never ever go back once you get this system down. This also works great on ax's. You just have to work with a greater angle to make the proper contact.

  • Thanks for the vid.

    I like the point of view. It gives a good idea on the angle you use.

  • Sharpening with file and/or stone now seems quaint.

    If only I had known this before I had spent hours and hours... and hours abrading a machete with thus mentioned file and stone. The machete is still dull; but not for long.

    Thank you for the demonstration!

  • Thanks for taking the time to explain this in detail. I've ordered supplies from lee valley and am going to take a shot at this.

  • I got everything set up, thanks for all the data and putting the video up. I'll need to work with it some more but with little effort I was able to shave! I just need to be careful with the sanding disc on the right side, might look to take it off.

  • Very nice presentation; you articulated well the entire procedure. Thank you. Where did you get the finer grit belts?

  • Thanks for the comments. I posted the website just below where I get the belts.

  • thanks for the vid very informative

  • do a search for lee valley and go to the sharpening section. This is where I get my 20 micron (500 grit), 9 micron (1200 grit) and leather belts. I use a seller by the name of "barbkat" on fleabay for the other belts, but LeeValley has them as well. Practice on a couple chinese kitchen knives first and develop the skill. MINIMAL stock removal is the key. :)

  • I cannot figure out why the link won't post...

  • Ok, I found the belt sander and the green and black compounds but cant find any of the replacement belts in the grits you mentioned. Do you have any suggestions on where to get those? I can find them in bulk but would rather not spend $500 to get each of what I would need. Thank you again.

    I've been busting my $%%#$ to get knives sharp with Lansky, still cant shave the way you did!

  • What product on the market now would you buy if you had to replace that Wilton? Thank you.

  • Central and Grizzly both make a decent 1x30. Grizzly's name is certainly respectable. The feature that sold me was the spring loaded tensioner pulley. Fast change outs really save time. My Father in law bought the Harbor Freight, and it is pretty good, but it needs to have a heavy spring installed in the tensioner pulley window. If you are a "do it yourselfer", it is not hard to do.

    Thanks for watching.

  • What brand belt sander were you using. Excellent demonstration. Super Cool!!!!

  • It is a Wilton model 91046. I can't find it anywhere online...I mean nowhere. I got it at Farm and Fleet here in Southeast Wisconsin. I should have bought 2. The rapid change out tensioner feature is excellent and all the pulleys ride on bearings. If you find one, let me know and I will get another one.

  • I do want to mention, it is a good idea to keep a bucket of water nearby to dip the steel into should it get too hot.

  • Do you alternate the burr for each belt meaning do you sharpen until a burr develops on the other side of the blade for each belt all the way down to the final belt or do you maintain a burr on the original side until the final belt?

  • I flip the burr back and forth on each belt. When I made the original burr, I then flipped it to the other side when I did the opposite side grind. This set the burr up to be contacted and sharpened with the very next belt...so on and so forth.

    Jeff

  • Good tutorial. This method will round a v-edge, so it's a good way to convert a v-edge to a convex edge because the belt is so flexible, correct?

  • Absolutely correct. It makes short work of that shoulder above the edge as well to blend the edge grind into the primary grind for cutting efficiency.

    Thanks.

  • Cool video, and very nice edge, once you go to a belt sander you never go back :D.

  • So you don't use the strop anymore?

  • Not by hand anymore, no. This is so much easier and faster. Had I not gotten into making kydex sheaths, I wouldn't even have this belt sander. I am really glad I have it now. If you get any damage done to your edge, it takes no time to re-profile an edge and get it back to insane sharpness.

  • Hey Eddie. Long time no talk bro. It is a Wilton model 91046. I got it at Farm and Fleet. Took all the crap off of it like the guards and working plates so it actually became a useful tool. :D

  • aloha its me kalama,luv the vid ,now i gota get me a belt sander,what model is that sander

  • Great demonstration. Thanks for sharing.

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more