Added: 2 years ago
From: nukem384
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  • AWESOME! THANK YOU LIFE SAVER!

  • i cant get the bolts off ! what do i do? i sprayed it with wd40 but it doesnt seem to be doing anything

  • Thank you very much for this video. I changed the brake pads for my 2008 Pilot in 30 minutes. The rotors were not worn or warped. New brake pads were under $40. Watching this video made it seem easy and it was. Thanks again.

  • Is this the same for 2005 honda pilot and do I have to unscrew something to bleed line, or unscrew brake fluid reservoir? thx

  • @miamijoey47 yeah itll be the same. you dont need to bleed the line, youll be fine if you follow what i did

  • is honda integra the same?

  • @jasexklusivmusik yeah itll be basically the same

  • very helpful vid. but like another commenter mentioned before, about elaborating on the whole c clamping the piston thing... you only said it was 'a must' to do step, and the reasoning for it.., but yet after you pop in the new pads, you make no further reference as to where, the c clamp went, or when the c clamp is to be untightened, and removed.... what happened to the old brake pad you used along with your c clamp ??? sorry, am jus not understanding that part at all... thanks.. mike k.

  • @wjustincrediblew what youre going to do with the c clamp is with your old brake pad over the piston, squeeze the piston back into the housing and then you can take the c clamp off. if you dont do this step, youll never get the caliper back over the pads and rotors because with the piston sticking out, it wont clear all the new pad you have on your new brake pads. remember, over time your brake pads wear out, and as that happens, the piston slowly comes out to compensate for this.

  • I did get them off finally - thanks for the reply. I have another question though. After replacing everything. I found brake fluid on the floor on the garage and found that it wasn't from the lines but it had come out of the top of the master-cylinder reservoir. Is this OK? ...There is no more coming out - no leaking... I think what happened is that the reservoir overflowed when I used the C-Clamp to push in the caliper "piston" (right word?)... Can you shed any light on the fluid that appeared?

  • @paulonutube yup thats what happened. dont worry about it, youre good.

  • Thanks for the video. I've been thinking about doing a pad change on my integra.

  • Hi, I can't get the bolts off that hold on the calipers - what am I doing wrong? Did they over tighten them when I had someone do this job for me? 

  • @paulonutube could be that. the bolts could also just be seized on there from not being touched for so long. try pb blaster and a breaker bar. or air tools if you have them.

  • Does this also apply  for Honda Pilot 2005

  • @Grenplen yeah should be the same

  • When its time to change the oil could you do a tutorial.

  • @001chatlos001 check my channel, already have one up for an accord. its pretty much the same thing.

  • will this work with an '08?

  • @001chatlos001 yeah should be exactly the same

  • Thanks, Nukem! You're giving me confidence to try this myself. I'm a rookie, so forgive me for the stupid question. When installing the pads, how/where do the shims and clips fit? Will I know this once I remove the old pads/clips/shims abd see the old placement? Any step-by-step placement (which sides the shims go on, where the clips go on, etc.) would be great! Thanks again!

  • @bwasher4 i would just look at one of the old pads you took out and copy the placement of the shims onto the new pad. they just pop on and off the pad, so its not very hard to install

  • do you have to do that clamping part, where u said something about pushing the pistons in? i couldnt see exactly what was being done in the video due to it being kinda dark.  more elaboration would be appreciated. thanks a lot in advance.

  • @ytjoekim yes you do. if you don't youll never be able to get the new pads and caliper over the rotor due to all the new material on the new pad

  • nukem384, Thanks for the vid, you saved me tons of time and headache.

  • Nice video tutorial. @DBB123321 good call on removing the fluid resorvoir cap!

    @ChadnShawna rust on the edges is normal - they're exposed to every puddle you drive through, never gonna get away from rust. If the face is rusty that's generally easy to clean too as long as there's enough metal left for the pads to squeeze and safely stop without deforming things. The dealer's trying to make money, he'll pick on any worry to sell you parts.

  • Great Video. You made it look so easy. Hopefully it will be when I do it.

  • So this looks easy enough. Your rotor looks rusty on the edges... why not replace it also? Is it because the face of the rotor is in good condition, and that is all that matters? Dealer recommended I get new brakes and rotors since the rotor was rusted and said the rotors could not be refinished. Should I just replace the rotors regardless (only $20 each)? Any thoughts on brake pad material?

  • great vid thanks

  • Hey nukem384: Thank you for showing me the easy way for changing pads on my 2005 Honda Accord. I would add though that when you compress the brake fluid cylinder with a C-clamp, make sure your brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay is open with the cap removed. When the brake job is done, make sure to replace the cap. Reason: It may be very difficult to compress the cylinder if the reservoir is already full of liquid...trust me on that one:)

    Nice job and keep up the good work!

  • I'm not quite clear what you actually clamped together because of the lighting. But I will figure that out in my repair manual.

  • if you have a small engined car you are more lightly to have rear brake drums and there a bit more complex

  • @HarrowonTVandRAFBP id def have the rotor taken in to get resurfaced. if the groove is that deep, you might have to get some new rotors.

  • Should have mentioned a manual impact driver will probably be needed to remove screws on honda rotors.I damn near stripped my screws trying to get the rotors off until I bought an impact driver.Also, one should apply anti-seeze paste to bolts before reinstalling rotor screws.These steps are a must in my opinion.

  • nice video, however could use some extra lighting.

  • Very straightforward and simple.

  • nice video, but one suggestion, you mentioned brake quiet spray/paste and "spread it on the brake pad" should have mentioned NOT to spread it on the FACE of the pad to the rotor. Someone who have never done brake pads may spread the stuff on the face of the pad and ruin the pad.

  • Thanks for the info. I now have the nerve and knowlege to change the brakes on my 2006 Honda Odyssey. With the economy, gone are the days that we had a mechanic do this for us and spend $250. Today we spent only $60 and used 1 hour of our time.

  • You made it look so easy. Thanks.

  • Easiest video I've found so far for changing brake pads, thanks for posting!

  • yeah, is rear break pad just as easy as the front one? thanks

  • @tkcayc168 exact same thing, just put the ebrake down

  • @nukem384 hi. nice tutorial there. Do you recommend resurfacing rotors?

  • @trinoma88 there is a huge debate about that. i personally dont and havent had any problems. id say resurface them if youve got really deep grooves, otherwise you should be fine.

  • @nukem384 i agree with you, i had my civic's rotor resurfaced so far it ok. I guess im lucky to have it done by a good machinist here in our country. i am sharing you an interesting video of resurfacing rotors. Thank you.

  • How are the rear brakes to remove? Good show with the front wheels. Thanks!

  • @bubbajeph exact same thing. just remember to release the hand brake first.

  • which brake pads did you use? brand I mean....looks good. thanks

  • @archetype001 genuine honda brake pads

  • @nukem384 , Thanks a bunch.

  • @nukem384 my experience is that the Honda brake pads last longer than after market pads BUT after market pads are easier on the rotors.

  • I need help

    I just change brakes on my civic and they don't work good.

    I press the brake padel to the metal and the car don't want to stop to good

    I been driving for 2 days and it's still stopping like shit

    What's the problem ?

  • @CASINONIAGARA check your fluid reserve first. if thats ok, its most likely your brake master cylinder is gone.

  • Thanks, very useful, I have a 2008 Odyssey, same procedure, ye really made the difference on my day, it was nice and easy with your guidance.

  • great video; we have a 2006 Element, which i trust will be the same procedure. For $29, we are installing new rotors, but may resurface the old ones for the next time. NAPA has more expensive rotors, as well as various prices for pads. Anyone had any experience with bad calipers of their honda? Thanks, gary

  • Nice video, good to see a video that actually suggests to use older pads to push the pump back in rather than having ppl guess how the c-clamp should be used.

    A couple things I'd suggest adding are:

    1) do not to get ANY grease on the new pads or rotor

    2) pump your brakes before you begin driving your car

    3) turn the front wheels for easier access to the caliper (you did it but maybe forgot to pt it out?)

    Mainly 1 and 2 bc they're safety issues, but again, good job on the video.

  • You should always skim / machine the disc surface so you give the new pads something to bed into (More to it than that - cross sectional areas etc nut will keep it simple) . Also maybe mention that you ALWAYS replace BOTH sides at the same time. NEVER just one side. I worked on brakes and suspension for 10+ years and I have seen... many times ...people just replace one side . Scary!

    Also for those screws ...and 'Impact screwdriver ' is a must.

  • great video, thanks for helping tips and sharing.

    what about 2007 Accord?

    same procedures?

  • @lazyhorse22 it should be similar if not exactly the same

  • Well done.

  • Great video it looks really easy until u actually try it

  • Glad you pointed out the small screws holding the rotor on. O had heard that they can be a pain to remove and was unclear where they were located. Not anymore!

  • Thanks for the info. I didn't know exactly where to put the brake grease at. Now, I know, on shims and pads and metal part.

  • thank you so much. i have another somewhat related question. i recently replaced my brakeline hose but now the threaded connection feels like either its stripped or not connecting correctly. help

  • @psychospice8 my assumption is it probably is. did you use an open end wrench to open it? if so, thats probably why. the metal around that area is very soft and strips easily. the best thing to do is use a flare nut wrench so no strippage occurs. you might have to take that in to get it fixed now if its leaking fluid.

  • i really liked your video. you made everything look soooo easy. I only have one question though. you kinda flew past the part with the "c"clamp on the piston??? possibly a little more explanation on that would be cool : ) please

  • @psychospice8 basically you use the c clamp to compress the piston back into the caliper. if you dont do that, the caliper will not fit over the new brake pads that actually have pad compared to the old brake pads with nothing left. let me know if youre still confused.

  • Very well done video - Thanks!

    Also, one thing to add in regard to the brake-quiet grease....and not to insult anyone's intelligence here....but, only apply the grease to the BACK of the brake pad. You wouldn't want grease on the rotor or any part of the brake pad that comes in contact with the rotor. That tends to inhibit braking. :)  Thanks again.

  • Thanks for the vid- very helpful. Only way it could get better is better lighting.

  • Great video. I wish I knew about the C clamp before I bled the brakes and had to manually compress them.

  • It is recommended to stop briskly 1/2 doz. X's in the driveway before venturing forth into traffic. (back and forth) Failure to do so may result in an accident as the pads are not seated. New rotors and pads need this driveway break-in much more so. Always put somew form of locking tab on your master cylinder bolts.

    Sometimes they magically come loose? Of course, some people can afford to get into accidents. Ha, ha,...

  • Great video but video light was hard to see.

    Thanks

  • thanks for the video..ive learned something.

  • What's the torque specs on the caliper brackets?

  • @Sadie021710 bolts holding caliper on are 27ft-lbs, caliper bracket bolts are 80ft-lbs

  • I just did both the front and rear pads on my friends 05 Pilot. These are the easiest brakes I've ever done! The rears are just like the fronts. I didn't turn the rotors (they didn't need it).

  • Very clear instructions. I changed the brakes on my 2003 Acura MDX and this video was most helpful. Thank you!

  • what do you do if you have a drum brake? not a disk

  • I did the fronts with now problem. The rears are a problem. The 2 bolts refuse to loosen. Somehow on one side it finally loosened but I cant get it lose on the second side and the bolt is just about stripped. From what I see, theres a thing on the other side that just spins with it. Ive tried pliers on it those with no luck. This really sucks. Cars stuck on a jack right now while it rains.

  • Is it the same process for the rear pads? Does the parking brake come into play?

  • @ccsmith51 yep exact same thing for the back, just make sure your parking brake is off.

  • Is it the same process for the rear brakes? Or does the parking brake have to be dealt with?

  • With ABS do you not need to crack the line so the back pressure from compressing the caliper does not push old fliud back into the ABS

  • @sunriver100 you can crack the bleeder open if you want, but its not necessary

  • stroke of obvious genius using original brake pad. Ive seen people putting the C clamp directly on it

  • @FILMMAKERCHAP i have too.  i just feel its safer to protect the piston if you can.

  • How do you install the new clips that come with the pads?????

  • @ericbofcarsonc you basically snap them on. make sure they are the same way as the old ones.

  • be careful when you say to put grease on the brake pad, you might be misinforming people to put grease on the side of the pad that contacts with the disc.

  • actually this was nice educational video, after watching all those video about changing brake pads and rotors, I must say this is really nice, nice view but only the video needs to be more clear, but I like it, now I can sure change my HONDA CRV 06 Brake pads and rotors too. thanks for the video.

  • Do I actually have to replace those screws? Seems useless to me and sure can't get them out or loose without drilling them out...

  • nope, dont worry about them. if you get them out, you can leave them out, you lug nuts keep the rotor flat against the hub

  • I could not get those two screws out! Spent a good hour on one front rotor ended up stripping it out, drilled it out still cant get rotor off! Need to find out what the dimensions are of the bolts for the other two holes hoping if i get them i can "help" it off easier...

  • @FTLOSM Go to Home Depot and pick up an Impact Screwdriver

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  • don't forget to pump the brake pedal before finishing the job, to contact the piston with the brake pads.

  • great video bro

  • Thanks for the video

  • thanks for the video it was very helpful!!

  • not all hondas have those two holding screws.. lol not sure all that dont but can tell from experience 94 accords dont hassle takin rotors off

  • The Dealership wants $226 to change the rear pad and resurface the rotors on a 2001 MDX. After watching your video I'm confident I could change the pads, but what would I need to resurface the rotors?

  • you need a huge machine to resurface rotors (not worth buying one). most shops or even auto parts stores will resurface rotors for about $15 a pop.

  • Thanks! I'll check around. Your video was very helpful.

  • yea issue is most shops wont do it unless they do the brake job so ask around autopart stores where the closest machineshop is at sometimes it works better then searching for one online

  • Those 2 screws holding the rotors are useless and gave me so much pain. even tapping them or so they wont move, all i can do is damage it, i had to drill them lol ^.^

  • good video.

    next time nix the music, you couldn't even hear him talk over the first bit

  • What's the best way to jack up the vehicle to get the stand under the side jack point?

  • id put the jack on the cross frame in the front and lift the front of the car up.

  • Unless I'm looking in the wrong place, the cross frame (running from one side of the chassis to the other a foot or so aft of the transmission) looks like a rather thin piece of stamped steel. Is this robust enough to support half or more of the vehicles weight until the jack stands are in place? Thanks.

  • I noticed that the piston on some Hondas is screwed back in; not the case with the pilot? How will I know when I get my caliper off? How far to press it back in?

    Also, what are some ideas for pads to get (other than factory Honda) and pads to stay away from? Thanks a bunch!

  • usually the screw back pistons are for the rears only. you can tell by looking at the piston, and it will be a cross or "x" through the piston. use the old brake pad and press until flat against the casing, or until the piston doesnt move in anymore. not sure about other brake pads (i always use genuine stuff).

  • 1. Will this work for a 2006 Pilot?

    2. When placing the wheel back on the vehicle, do you use a torque wrench or do you snug it with a ratchet?

  • yes this will work on an 06 pilot. if you want to be thorough, you should use a torque wrench on everything! so yes, use the torque wrench for the wheel bolts

  • will this work on a 2007 Acura MDX , front and rear ?

  • yep

  • Is this the same way to replace brake pads on a 2007 Honda Accord (front and back disc).

    And on a 2000 Honda S2000 (front and back disc ?)

    thank you !

  • both those cars should be the same or pretty similar

  • Hello Friend I found this vidio very helpfull!

    My question is if this also works on a 2002 Acura RSX Type-s?

    Thank you!

  • thanks. yep, it's exactly the same on the rsx-s

  • Good Job on this video, but I see 2 problems that should be noted. First is that you didn't service the caliper bracket. This is critical to new pad life.

    You need to remove the pad clips and clean under them with a file or wire brush to remove all the rust that will hold the pads from sliding freely and you need to remove and relube the slide pins from the mount. 2nd you forgot to mention that you need to pump the pedal before you try to move the car so that you won't hit anything.

  • thanks for the tips!

  • Excellent job on the video. I've done brakes a handful of times before but I always like to prepare for the job. This gives the experienced DIY'er what you need do the job. Thanks!

  • glad i could help!

  • Hey guys...I have an 06 Honda Accord EX 2.4...its been 3.5 years since I bought the car and haven't changed my brake pads since! Now...I HAVE to coz they are squeaking...now to change the brake pads they are charging me about $480 parts AND labor! But if I buy the ceramic break pads online I'm getting all four for under $80! so...is the cost of labor worth it?

    Any response appreciated!

  • umm...yes? youd be saving $400 in labor charges from whoever you got that quote, so i'd say thats worth it.

  • so you are saying that they charging me $480 is WORTH it? i guess my question was confusing...I was asking if its worth it to pay $480 to get it replaced or can i get it done for a cheaper deal! I have NEVER changed anything in my car on my own so...rather inexperienced!

    The other thing is...the rear brake pads...are they harder to change coz of the emergency brake?

  • $480 for a brake change is a hugeeeeee rip off. id never ever pay that much. labor to change front brake pads should be more than 1 1/2 hours of labor, so maybe $100-$150 in labor. rears are basically the same, just put the ebrake down first.

  • thanx for the helpful video--i have an odyssey and i wish the caliper bolts came off as easily as yours! I twist the rotor to get better leverage, and I drilled out those pesky screws that rust the rotor to the rotor plate.

  • no problem!

  • Godo job Nukem384!

  • Thank you for the video. It was a great and easy explanation, I've never done brake work before and was worried to do so, after this video though I'm not so worried. Looks pretty simple. Thank you.

  • Would this be the same steps for a 4Dr honda civic 2001, or are there other unique steps?

  • should be exactly the same. the only possible difference is that you might need an adjustable wrench to hold this piece near the caliper bolts or the bolt will spin forever (safety mechanism so the caliper bolts don't fall out from vibration)

  • Thanks, you just saved me $400 from the dealer

  • no problem!

  • I went to the auto parts store and asked for medium quality semi metallic break pads. They were $36 but were out of stock so they gave the me the next level up ceramics for the same price. Does this sound like a good deal? They are going on a 2001 toyota camry. Should I just go with cheap $20 metallic pads? I heard the metallic pads won't wear down the rotors as much.

  • depends on what youre looking for. if it's going on a camry, im assuming youre not getting brake pads for performance, just something that works? if that's the case, id just get the cheap pads. the higher the performance of the pad, the faster they wear out and chew up your rotors.

  • what's the thing after the socket wrench?

  • c clamp, you can find it at any auto parts store. they have different size ones too.

  • nice work. the music in the background should be a little quieter, but terrific job anyhow.

  • i think that in real life changing brake pads makes more mess haha well i do.

  • Thx man, this saved me a load of work!

  • no problem!

  • how difficult is it to remove the 2 alignment screws in the rotors? and do you know what size screws are needed to back the rotor off of the hub?

  • the phillips screws that hold the rotor in place shouldn't be too hard to get off. a little trick is to put your screwdriver onto the screw, and then take a hammer and wack the end of the screwdriver firmly. that should shock the screw and make it come out easier. Sorry, i don't know the size of the pinch bolts, but taking a rubber mallet and lightly banging it against the back of the rotor works just as well. just make sure you rotate the rotor and it should pop off no problem.

  • thank you this is so clear i mean you didn't confuse me like everyone else haha thanx also ur so cute

  • great! glad i could help!

  • hmm very interesting

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