I'm already up to the 3rd version of them....got the handles down. Look just like the store bought ones now.
Not sure if I completely understand your "blades", Mike..........but I'm going to be getting a chance to see some REAL ones Next weekend. I'll take pix n notes.
the cup jacks i like to use are sharper on the thick side closest to the handles and slightly rounded at the tips to prevent scarring on feet and lids
I agree with tubeular009, the handles need to assure that the tips of the blades precisly line up for fine cup work, but you are near there, I think the jimm moore jacks are 304. but I am not positive, I know they resist rusting real well, and handle the heat, its what I plan on using when next I builds me another set.-) I have been hunting for 304 in the streamlined high tension form used on biplanes for the cross lines. I think its pre shaped for blade jacks, and its made of 304.-)
An additional piece of advice on the making of jacks. First what Bobby said, obviously about the blades, but another very important factor for a pair of jacks is that the handle section be very sturdy and durable. This means spring steel because you want a constant pressure when giving a squeeze to constrict the blades. This will provide more stability and accuracy for the artist, also think about the weight counterbalance of the blades and the handle very important. Hope this helps!
wow! now you have my attention!-) those are perfect cup jacks! the only thing I would change is taper the entire length of the blade rather than just the tip. its a lot more work, but the results are amazing if the blades have a slow taper to them. now I really got to get those drawings to you.-)
thanks, Bobby. That's the kind of feedback I need. I'll be making another set of blades for them today. This one will be the "long taper" style. I'll probably go back and taper the first set a lil further up the shaft.
thanks, bz and raman.
I'm already up to the 3rd version of them....got the handles down. Look just like the store bought ones now.
Not sure if I completely understand your "blades", Mike..........but I'm going to be getting a chance to see some REAL ones Next weekend. I'll take pix n notes.
ornametalsmith 2 years ago
if these are your first 2 pairs they look great
the cup jacks i like to use are sharper on the thick side closest to the handles and slightly rounded at the tips to prevent scarring on feet and lids
ramanglass544 2 years ago
Nice work on those jacks.
bzglass 2 years ago
I agree with tubeular009, the handles need to assure that the tips of the blades precisly line up for fine cup work, but you are near there, I think the jimm moore jacks are 304. but I am not positive, I know they resist rusting real well, and handle the heat, its what I plan on using when next I builds me another set.-) I have been hunting for 304 in the streamlined high tension form used on biplanes for the cross lines. I think its pre shaped for blade jacks, and its made of 304.-)
acroduster 2 years ago
An additional piece of advice on the making of jacks. First what Bobby said, obviously about the blades, but another very important factor for a pair of jacks is that the handle section be very sturdy and durable. This means spring steel because you want a constant pressure when giving a squeeze to constrict the blades. This will provide more stability and accuracy for the artist, also think about the weight counterbalance of the blades and the handle very important. Hope this helps!
TuBeUlar009 2 years ago
wow! now you have my attention!-) those are perfect cup jacks! the only thing I would change is taper the entire length of the blade rather than just the tip. its a lot more work, but the results are amazing if the blades have a slow taper to them. now I really got to get those drawings to you.-)
acroduster 2 years ago
thanks, Bobby. That's the kind of feedback I need. I'll be making another set of blades for them today. This one will be the "long taper" style. I'll probably go back and taper the first set a lil further up the shaft.
ornametalsmith 2 years ago